Here's my suggestion to beginner/intermediate surfers: Sit wide and catch all the little waves that no one else wants. At a crowded peak, you will not be able to compete for the good waves, regardless of where you sit. You'll just get in the way of other surfers. When surfing with a crowd, you'll get nothing but frustrated. Instead, buy an 8' foam board, wax it up, and catch 100 small waves in a session. You'll have fun and improve your surfing skills. Don't discount the junky little waves. It's amazing what a professional surfer can in small surf. A competitive surfer told me, "If you're not surfing, you're not learning. Waiting around in a crowded lineup isn't surfing; it's wasting time. Better to spend your time and energy actually catching waves and practicing technique. Also, you can meet other people who are at your level. Have a good time all the time."
today was my first day surfing, without having a teacher, putting me in position for the waves. I only caught 2 waves in 1.5 hours. The rest of the time, I was trying to identify waves, which is really hard. Something that also happened a lot, was that I tried to catch some of the set waves, missed it, beacuse Im bad, but also because of all the other surfers, and Im really not good enough to identify whose turn it is. I then often ended up in a position where the rest of the wave set would just fking slam me over and over. Anyways, my question is, how do you get these small waves. Wouldnt I just keep getting slammed by the white waves from the big set, if I was sitting closer to the beach, trying to catch the smaller waves.
@@sebyt8I'm also struggling with your questions. But my bet on the solution is to duck dive/turtle roll the big waves. It'll be more of an exertion type session, if that's what it takes to get waves at a crowded spot, that might be what has to happen
I've scored great waves at a loaded Lower Trestles. Gotta be patient. Gotta sit off the peak and slightly inside. Gotta be agile on your board, going out, going in, going sideways. Gotta pay attention. Gotta be surf fit. Wait and watch for a sub-optimal set. Often times they roll underneath the hot surfers. Gun it for the inside and paddle for the wave where you can catch it. And if you miss it, get ready to take some on the head.
@@Cnutthegreat15 no..it is more crowded..alot more as surfing has gained popularity..i,m talking back in the 90,s there was barely a handful of surfers at my local break, surf schools didnt really exist and at the more popular spot 15-20 people was considered a mass crowd...most people didnt think surfing was possible in my part of the world back then...Ahh them were the days young un...)
Omg thank you soo much now I understand the different sitting positions in the line up. I’m still a beginner and I’ve been going to Malibu first point and it’s VERY crowded. Since I saw a lot of experienced surfers sitting more out I thought I had to do the same but I’ve gotten zero waves. They all claim the peak as this video is presenting. I also did notice less experience surfers sitting closer to the beach and catching more waves that weren’t the best quality but were having good decent rides. I’m definitely gonna sit closer to catch those waves
I’m so happy with your videos because you bring so much visualization (I’m a visual learner). Although I just wonder if you have a video how to turn when there’s a wave coming at you? Mostly I’m trying to read the waves with my back at it because I don’t know how to turn efficiently. Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words. We do! It’s part of our Online Premium Courses Series: « Agility Skills - Spinning & More » tutorials.barefootsurftravel.com/courses/positioning-for-waves/
My tip: - observe the peak you'd like to go and see if there are still a fair amount of waves (even if only inside ones) that go unriden. If that's the case you can go there (skill level dependent of course), but if for every wave there are 3 to 4 surfers paddling, and drop ins happening, then forget it and look for another peak.
Great content. Especially the dangers of sitting inside. Most beginners don't have the awareness or paddle ability to get out of the way. 7:44. Also you could talk about localism. Most non beginner breaks will have a set social hierachy. If you're new to a break, its usually a bad idea to paddle the front of the peak. Beach breaks are a better choice than reef or point breaks. The peaks are more spread out.
Rule of thumb: if you only see surfers above your level catch waves, then find a different spot. While if you do see surfer at or below your level catch waves, then you should be able to catch waves as well. I've been tricked so many times by experienced surfers making a wave look easy, and they'll rip up the wave, throwing all kinds of fancy moves. I get excited, wanting to do the same, and go out there only to not catch a single wave all session. What I should be asking is why are there no surfers like me on the waves, just riding and trying to stay on the wave.
7:41 surfer is an idiot. He could see the person down below so long ago, but didn't adapt his trajectory and then complain about it. Great video otherwise, as usual
@@1695AB I have had some kid paddle into my take off zone. I am a total kook but he was doing that because he had zero idea. I had to give the young lad a polite tip for his own safety.
There are no secrets here. Tip, don't sit next to 10 other people and expect any of them to give you a wave. Tip 2, don't sit where it doesn't break or chase waves to spots that go deep, the futile and frustrated fool. My best advice, if you are crap a working crowded surf spots, buy a PS and stay home.
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Here's my suggestion to beginner/intermediate surfers: Sit wide and catch all the little waves that no one else wants. At a crowded peak, you will not be able to compete for the good waves, regardless of where you sit. You'll just get in the way of other surfers. When surfing with a crowd, you'll get nothing but frustrated.
Instead, buy an 8' foam board, wax it up, and catch 100 small waves in a session. You'll have fun and improve your surfing skills. Don't discount the junky little waves. It's amazing what a professional surfer can in small surf. A competitive surfer told me, "If you're not surfing, you're not learning. Waiting around in a crowded lineup isn't surfing; it's wasting time. Better to spend your time and energy actually catching waves and practicing technique. Also, you can meet other people who are at your level. Have a good time all the time."
Thankyou so much! This really helped me.
I do this. 8ft cheap foamie on the 1-2ft days.. catch 50 waves in a session! Keep ripping ❤
today was my first day surfing, without having a teacher, putting me in position for the waves. I only caught 2 waves in 1.5 hours. The rest of the time, I was trying to identify waves, which is really hard. Something that also happened a lot, was that I tried to catch some of the set waves, missed it, beacuse Im bad, but also because of all the other surfers, and Im really not good enough to identify whose turn it is. I then often ended up in a position where the rest of the wave set would just fking slam me over and over. Anyways, my question is, how do you get these small waves. Wouldnt I just keep getting slammed by the white waves from the big set, if I was sitting closer to the beach, trying to catch the smaller waves.
@@sebyt8I'm also struggling with your questions. But my bet on the solution is to duck dive/turtle roll the big waves. It'll be more of an exertion type session, if that's what it takes to get waves at a crowded spot, that might be what has to happen
@@Crossfirev Yeah I think youre right. I had not been taught a turtle roll yet, and i was using a foam board, so duck diving was also not a solution.
I've scored great waves at a loaded Lower Trestles. Gotta be patient. Gotta sit off the peak and slightly inside. Gotta be agile on your board, going out, going in, going sideways. Gotta pay attention. Gotta be surf fit. Wait and watch for a sub-optimal set. Often times they roll underneath the hot surfers. Gun it for the inside and paddle for the wave where you can catch it. And if you miss it, get ready to take some on the head.
Kool stuff miss Barefoot....it,s getting more and more crowded out there
No it's not you're just getting older and less tolerant..
@@Cnutthegreat15 no..it is more crowded..alot more as surfing has gained popularity..i,m talking back in the 90,s there was barely a handful of surfers at my local break, surf schools didnt really exist and at the more popular spot 15-20 people was considered a mass crowd...most people didnt think surfing was possible in my part of the world back then...Ahh them were the days young un...)
Love to watch a video on Wipeout technique for small and big waves and boards. You guys rock 🎸
Omg thank you soo much now I understand the different sitting positions in the line up. I’m still a beginner and I’ve been going to Malibu first point and it’s VERY crowded. Since I saw a lot of experienced surfers sitting more out I thought I had to do the same but I’ve gotten zero waves. They all claim the peak as this video is presenting. I also did notice less experience surfers sitting closer to the beach and catching more waves that weren’t the best quality but were having good decent rides. I’m definitely gonna sit closer to catch those waves
Thanks for this! 🤙💕
Excellent video! Thank you!
This is great! Thank you
I’m so happy with your videos because you bring so much visualization (I’m a visual learner). Although I just wonder if you have a video how to turn when there’s a wave coming at you? Mostly I’m trying to read the waves with my back at it because I don’t know how to turn efficiently. Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words. We do! It’s part of our Online Premium Courses Series: « Agility Skills - Spinning & More » tutorials.barefootsurftravel.com/courses/positioning-for-waves/
My tip:
- observe the peak you'd like to go and see if there are still a fair amount of waves (even if only inside ones) that go unriden. If that's the case you can go there (skill level dependent of course), but if for every wave there are 3 to 4 surfers paddling, and drop ins happening, then forget it and look for another peak.
The voice sounds 100% as flights audios before the take off 🤣🛫
Gold!
nice video as always
What a great video
Great content. Especially the dangers of sitting inside. Most beginners don't have the awareness or paddle ability to get out of the way. 7:44.
Also you could talk about localism. Most non beginner breaks will have a set social hierachy. If you're new to a break, its usually a bad idea to paddle the front of the peak.
Beach breaks are a better choice than reef or point breaks. The peaks are more spread out.
Very nice informational content 👍🏼
Sit wide and be patient for the bombs on point breaks. Works every time
So on your great advice buy a board and paddle out in to crowd
keep on producing good works! you guys the best
Excuse me where are the surfers in the video? Thank you
Hey there! These videos were filmed in two of our coaching retreats- Nicaragua & The Mentawais. :)
@@barefoot_surf thank you very much, very kind
Español please!! 🙌
Rule of thumb: if you only see surfers above your level catch waves, then find a different spot.
While if you do see surfer at or below your level catch waves, then you should be able to catch waves as well.
I've been tricked so many times by experienced surfers making a wave look easy, and they'll rip up the wave, throwing all kinds of fancy moves. I get excited, wanting to do the same, and go out there only to not catch a single wave all session. What I should be asking is why are there no surfers like me on the waves, just riding and trying to stay on the wave.
come to bali and swim with the sharks lol
7:41 surfer is an idiot. He could see the person down below so long ago, but didn't adapt his trajectory and then complain about it.
Great video otherwise, as usual
The etiquette is to paddle in wide, away from the peak of the wave. So the guy catching it had 100% right of way
that was staged for the video purposes obviolsly
@@1695AB I have had some kid paddle into my take off zone. I am a total kook but he was doing that because he had zero idea. I had to give the young lad a polite tip for his own safety.
There are no secrets here.
Tip, don't sit next to 10 other people and expect any of them to give you a wave. Tip 2, don't sit where it doesn't break or chase waves to spots that go deep, the futile and frustrated fool. My best advice, if you are crap a working crowded surf spots, buy a PS and stay home.
Chill out.