Wow--does that bring back memories. I had that exact bike in that color in 1974. I loved it. I drove it to work and did off-road trails on weekends. I'm 70 years old, and to this day, riding that bike is the most fun recreational sports activity I have ever done--bar none. I would love to have the same bike today.
Wow, what a nice restoration. That looks better than new! And I should know. I did a full restoration (to the same extent!) on a 1974 Kawasaki F-11A 250, a few years ago! Mine is that 'Candy Lime' green that is popular with a lot of Kawasaki bikes. I certainly agree with you, that it's very difficult to put a price on the value of something that you've worked so much on! And it's getting harder and harder to do these restorations, as the inventory of NOS parts availability is drying up. I read one of your viewers asked about polishing the aluminum parts, and your comment about how time-consuming that is. Just like you, I dis-assembled my wheels, to polish the hubs, as well as the fork tubes, and anything else that needed it. Ugggh! I think polishing aluminum has to be the worst, dirtiest, least enjoyable part of any motorcycle restoration. It might be debatable, whether I'd rather polish aluminum or have a root canal! After restoring a half dozen or more bikes, my favorite part is definitely working on the engines. It's always interesting to tear an old engine down, and see what caused it to fail. Well, I've rambled on for long enough here. Again, nice job on your F-7! That's a beauty!
I had a 1975 Kawasaki F7 175, this was my first bike, while in the USAF back in 1975-1979. I learned to ride a motorcycle on this bike. I am now 67 years old and have had several bikes. I just completed riding the TranAmerica Trail 5300 miles 29 days of riding o😂n a 2022-Honda CRF450RL Thanks for sharing this restoration, extremely well done sir!
Kudos to you sir! The TAT is no joke and is on my bucket list. This past summer I rode the MABDR through PA on a Suzuki DR650. That's just a warmup loop compared to the Trans American Trail.
A rebuild to be proud of! Congrats.........when I bought my f7 it was to rich, I finally found the problem to be the o ring between the main jet and bowl,
Thanks a lot! When I brought my F7 home, generations of mice had built a nest from the air cleaner to the carb. The seller told me that the carb may need cleaned, but it would run. Hahaha!
Sure thing! The shocks are new old stock Redwing shocks. The seller I bought mine from isn't selling any more, but I did find some others on eBay... www.ebay.com/itm/360633097672 These are the same dimensions as the originals, they just don't have the upper chrome dust cover.
Thanks for the question! The ignition switch is New Old Stock. I got it from Consolidate Motor Spares in the Netherlands. www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-f7c-1974-usa_model15108/switch-assy-ignition_27005068/ CMSNL has a revolving inventory. If they don't have it currently, check eBay. The part number is 27005-068. Something to note is that there is a 3-digit number stamped somewhere on your ignition switch (usually right beside the key hole). This denotes which key set the ignition switch was keyed, and the ignition key will have the same number stamped on it. Kawasaki only made 20 or so different key sets. So if your switch is stamped 417, then any key with 417 also stamped on it will work with that switch. This is important for 2 reasons. First, you can buy a NOS key with the same number and it will work, and second, because the ignition key is also used for the seat lock. In my case, I bought the NOS ignition switch first, then searched high and low for a NOS seat lock with the same key number until I finally found one. Yeah, that borders on OCD, but I didn't want to need 2 different keys.
Currently restoring my grandpa’s old F7-C myself, and I’ve probably watched this vid at least a dozen times for inspiration! Quick question though, what tires are those? Having a hard time finding tires sized in the 3.00-19 and 3.50-18 specs, but maybe there is some conversion I could do? Thanks!
Hello ender2999, thanks for asking! I also had a hard time finding a front tire that was A) a trials tire like the original, and B) DOT approved. The only DOT trials tire I could find in 3.00-19 was a Duro HF307, but it had a decidedly different tread pattern. I ended up going with Shinko SR-241 tires - 2.75-19 front and 3.50-18 rear. The tread pattern is a dead match to the stock Dunlops, and I've run Shinkos on other bikes with great results, so that's why. My original source for these is now out of stock, but you can get both of them today from RevZilla: www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/shinko-sr-241-series-tires?sku_id=594594 Good luck on your restoration!
@@mustang8057 Wow, thank you so much! Yeah, I too found the Duros, and then some non-trial tires. I wasn't sure about sizing and whether something like a 2.75 would be okay in place of the 3.00. That helps so much. Thanks again, and congrats on an amazing restoration!
I have a question about the fuel and vacuum lines going to the carb. There seems to be three brass nipples on the carb but, only two lines going in. Could you show me how yours are routed? I can't seem to find an exact schematic on the hoses. Thanks Jimmy
I can't post a picture, so hopefully I can explain it. As you look at the carb installed in the engine, there is a nipple on the right side, and 2 nipples on the left side. The nipple on the right side is the fuel inlet. On the left side, the front nipple is for the petcock vacuum line, and the back nipple is for the vent hose that goes back through the intake tract and exits through a hole in the back of the engine case (right below where the intake boot connects the airbox to the engine case). I hope that helps!
@@mustang8057 Thanks do much, you have done an outstanding job with your bike. I thought I had it correct but there must be another issue. I’ll figure it out. Thanks again
Hey @ender2999! There's more to it than I can type here, it would be worth a video all on its own. You will have to experiment a bit to get the finish right. Look at pictures of NOS parts to get an idea of what the original finish looked like. The F7 was a price-point bike, meaning Kawasaki used the least amount of effort possible on the original parts. While the original parts were glossy, they had a sanding lines in them. That means they skipped grits. They started coarse, hit them with a medium grit of some sort, then went straight to buffing. Neither the hubs nor the fork leg lowers were sanded smooth like an aluminum wheel. Instead, they were somewhat "grainy", for lack of a better description. My hubs weren't too bad, but every situation is different. I sanded the hubs first with 180 and 220 grit dry, then 320 grit wet, then a red ScotchBrite pad and finally polished by hand. If you sand with too fine a grit, the aluminum takes on a mirror-like look, which wasn't the original finish. I used Blue Magic metal polish at the end. Mother's works too well, it makes aluminum look like a mirror, which again wasn't the original finish The fork legs lowers were sanded with different grits emery paper with the lower being held in a padded vice. I can't remember which now, but I know I ended at 320 grit. One of my fork leg lowers had some deep pitting, so I had to be pretty aggressive to even everything back out. Then I just had them powder coated in clear. The most important thing to keep in mind is to take your time. Do a small section to test out different sanding grits and methods until you're happy with the result. It will save you time in the long run. Working about 4 hours after work each night, I have a solid week into the hubs, and about 8 hours in both the fork leg lowers. Good luck and have fun!
Wow, thanks for the amazingly detailed write up! You’ve been such a generous and invaluable resource. Sounds like I need to prepare to put in some elbow grease. Thanks again, I’ll def have to share my results when I’m done with all this!
Well two things are going on there. First, I'm running PJ1 Silverfire synthetic injector oil. It smokes, but a quarter as much as bean oil and it barely spooges. Second, what smoke it was making was sort of hidden by the lighting. Right when I first start it in the video, you can see some of the smoke, but it doesn't lay down a smoke screen like some premix oils.
Hey another question, since you were so helpful with the last one! Anyway, when you were rebuilding your petcock, did you have any issues with those little cylindrical screens? I only have one screen, the shorter one, and it is torn (really, more like cracked because of how hardened and brittle it is). It doesn’t seem to be causing any problems right now but, I’d love to replace it if I could. Were you able to find a replacement for this, or was yours in good shape? Thanks!
Hello ender2999! First, my tank was in amazing shape inside, so I didn't have to replace the petcock filters. Having said that, there is also a strainer inside the petcock (#12 on the parts fiche: www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motorcycle/1974/f7-c/fuel-tank-74-75-f7-c-f6-d ), so if you ran without those filters on the petcock inlet tubes, all is not lost. Back to the petcock filters, they were never available separately from Kawasaki, however they are pretty universal across Kawasaki and Japanese bikes in general. Diablo Cycle says that Kawasaki H1 and H2 petcock filters will work, but they are out of stock ( www.diablocycle.com/Kawasaki-H2-H1-S-KH-Petcock-Fuel-Filter.html ). They are available on eBay though. Another trick to finding parts is that sometimes you have to cross brands. Kawasaki parts and Suzuki parts are often extremely similar or exactly the same with different part numbers (fork seals are a classic example of this). In this case, Suzuki sells a petcock filter set with an o-ring for the petcock used on everything from a DS80 up to a TM400. You don't need the o-ring, but the filters should work: www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/44300-28817?ref=9d71dfd0faad162bab26c31a33db79e041407647 I can't confirm that they will work 100%, but I'd bet they will and don't cost much to try. One last thing you can try is to measure the O.D. of the inlet tubes on the petcock, then search for petcock filters with that same size as the I.D. Like I said before, these filters are pretty universal, so something from another bike is bound to work. I hope that points you in the right direction, and let me know how you make out.
@@mustang8057 That is great! Thanks so much. Super helpful--that gives me a lot of options to look into. I need to get a little more crafty with looking at cross brand parts. I already bought some Suzuki fork dust cover seals that fit perfectly. I will report back with what I end up going with, hopefully to help the next person. Thanks again.
At the 0:58 mark, you see the flywheel cover that has "Kawasaki" molded into it. Take that cover off. On the right side, right by the sprocket cover is a slotted bolt with a nut. Loosen the nut, turn the bolt in until it stops, then back it off 1/4 turn. Tighten the nut back down while holding the bolt. This adjusts the clutch pushrod freeplay so that it is not applying pressure with the clutch disengaged. As the clutch plates wear, the stack gets shorter and the pushrod will start to maintain contact. Also, make sure your clutch cable is not adjusted too tightly. These are the only 2 clutch adjustments you can make. If the clutch is still slipping after this, it's time for new plates.
All years of the Kawasaki F7 use the same petcock - Kawasaki Part No. 51023-048 - as well as all years of the F9 Big Horn. It is unavailable from Kawasaki, but eBay is your friend. A quick search there turned up the individual parts, an NOS petcock ($$$$), as well as used and aftermarket petcocks. Good luck!
Hey I've got another question for you (hopefully others are reading and benefitting from these as well!). Where did you get those redline numbers on the tach, and would you mind sharing what they are? I wasn't able to find them in the owner's manual. Thanks!
Hello again! That break-in decal on the tach was original to the bike - I didn't replace it. I'm not certain, but I'm pretty sure all 2-stroke Kawasaki's of the era got the same decal. 0-500 miles, stay below 4k RPMs. 500-1,000 miles, stay below 6k RPMs. You can get a reproduction break-in decal here: www.diablocycle.com/Break-In-Decal.html
Your first question is difficult to answer as it's value is highly subjective. It's worth a lot more to a collector or museum who wants it to finish a display (and knows these bikes and what it takes to get them into back to original condition) than it is to someone who just wants a bike for their kid. It's worth even more to someone who has a sentimental attachment. They may have had one growing up, or like in my case, their Dad had one. The right auction with 2 bullheaded bidders would get a lot more than parking it out in the yard with a For Sale sign. NADA says it's worth $2,600 in excellent condition. I'm not selling it, so I don't even know what I would ask if I were. I do know that it would be a lot more than $2,600 though. A lot more. As for your second question, my wife reads these comments too. So really, not very much at all. 🙂 In all honesty, for those who are thinking of taking on a project like this, you can do it for less money than you think if you're a patient, careful shopper and are really good at searching. For me, the hunt for parts is half the fun of a restoration. Finding unobtanium is like winning the lottery!
Hey i am restoring the same model and i heard that it uses the same engine parts as a ke 175 google hasnt been able to help me so i was wondering if you knew
The F7 and the KE175 engines are similar and some parts do interchange, but they are not exactly the same. The top-ends are different, but some bottom-end parts like the crankshaft and clutch assembly will interchange. I have no experience with the KEs, so my best advice is this. Find a website that has the parts fiche for both the F7-C and the KE175. Click on a part number from either and look at the "Where Used" or "Related Fitment" section to see if it was also used on the other bike. I did this a lot when I couldn't find a specific part for the F7, but it was also used on other bikes like the F9 or the G5. Good luck!
About half of the NOS parts came from eBay. I got some parts like the horn from long-time Kawasaki dealers who just happened to have them still in inventory. Some hard-to-find parts came from www.cmsnl.com - they are very good to deal with. Believe it or not, most of the fastener hardware is still available from Kawasaki. Check out the parts fiche at www.partzilla.com.
@@baileybrungardt6440 Anytime! Many of the parts on the F7 also fit other Kawasaki bikes of the era. So if you can't find something by searching with "F7", try to find another bike that the part fits and search for it. An example of this is the headlight rim, which fits all Kawasaki F7s, as well as '73 and on F9s and F11s.
The carb is one of those parts that is specific to the F7, and because it's a rotary valve engine, only that carb will fit. The part no. is 16001-197. Keep searching, and one will turn up. It took me over a year to find all the parts I needed at the price I was willing to pay. It is fun though. Good luck!
😂when I worked for a kawasaki dealer in the 70,s after tuning one up on the test ride goofing off I flipped the 175 over backwards about 30 mph ,got alittle scraped up,nothing bad but it hit hard on front wheel a bent the frame!! I SHOULD HAVE BEEN FIRED!! JUST AN MISHAP THEY SAID!
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow--does that bring back memories. I had that exact bike in that color in 1974. I loved it. I drove it to work and did off-road trails on weekends. I'm 70 years old, and to this day, riding that bike is the most fun recreational sports activity I have ever done--bar none. I would love to have the same bike today.
What a meticulous restoration! Don’t imagine there’s a cleaner F7 out there. Thanks for sharing.
Just picked up the exact same bike. Keeping this video for reference ..thanks.
Same
Wow, what a nice restoration. That looks better than new! And I should know. I did a full restoration (to the same extent!) on a 1974 Kawasaki F-11A 250, a few years ago! Mine is that 'Candy Lime' green that is popular with a lot of Kawasaki bikes. I certainly agree with you, that it's very difficult to put a price on the value of something that you've worked so much on! And it's getting harder and harder to do these restorations, as the inventory of NOS parts availability is drying up. I read one of your viewers asked about polishing the aluminum parts, and your comment about how time-consuming that is. Just like you, I dis-assembled my wheels, to polish the hubs, as well as the fork tubes, and anything else that needed it. Ugggh! I think polishing aluminum has to be the worst, dirtiest, least enjoyable part of any motorcycle restoration. It might be debatable, whether I'd rather polish aluminum or have a root canal! After restoring a half dozen or more bikes, my favorite part is definitely working on the engines. It's always interesting to tear an old engine down, and see what caused it to fail.
Well, I've rambled on for long enough here.
Again, nice job on your F-7! That's a beauty!
I had a 1975 Kawasaki F7 175, this was my first bike, while in the USAF back in 1975-1979. I learned to ride a motorcycle on this bike. I am now 67 years old and have had several bikes. I just completed riding the TranAmerica Trail 5300 miles 29 days of riding o😂n a 2022-Honda CRF450RL Thanks for sharing this restoration, extremely well done sir!
Kudos to you sir! The TAT is no joke and is on my bucket list. This past summer I rode the MABDR through PA on a Suzuki DR650. That's just a warmup loop compared to the Trans American Trail.
WOW that is beautiful - awesome job on the work
A rebuild to be proud of! Congrats.........when I bought my f7 it was to rich, I finally found the problem to be the o ring between the main jet and bowl,
Thanks a lot! When I brought my F7 home, generations of mice had built a nest from the air cleaner to the carb. The seller told me that the carb may need cleaned, but it would run. Hahaha!
Love the silver and black on the bike
Super excellent results ! 👍
Looks great that was my first motorcycle got my driver's license on that exact bike.
Amazing video! Thanks. I have an F7 with 1200 miles. It's in dang good shape, but not so clean as your post restore.
Nice work I've got a 73 F11 that I'm restoring this winter.
Nice work , I’m going to have to add u to favorites
wow awesome job I'm working on mine
Nice Job, Where did you get the majority of new old stock parts? Next video perhaps you can list parts suppliers.
Thank you! Many people have asked me where the parts came from. I've added the vendors I used in the video description.
I've just got an F7 I love the condition of yours, can you tell me the name of the shocks please I can't make it out on the audio, thx Bryan.
Sure thing! The shocks are new old stock Redwing shocks. The seller I bought mine from isn't selling any more, but I did find some others on eBay... www.ebay.com/itm/360633097672 These are the same dimensions as the originals, they just don't have the upper chrome dust cover.
Hi there! Can you please point me in the direction of where you got that ignition switch? Is it aftermarket? Thanks
Thanks for the question! The ignition switch is New Old Stock. I got it from Consolidate Motor Spares in the Netherlands.
www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-f7c-1974-usa_model15108/switch-assy-ignition_27005068/
CMSNL has a revolving inventory. If they don't have it currently, check eBay. The part number is 27005-068.
Something to note is that there is a 3-digit number stamped somewhere on your ignition switch (usually right beside the key hole). This denotes which key set the ignition switch was keyed, and the ignition key will have the same number stamped on it. Kawasaki only made 20 or so different key sets. So if your switch is stamped 417, then any key with 417 also stamped on it will work with that switch. This is important for 2 reasons. First, you can buy a NOS key with the same number and it will work, and second, because the ignition key is also used for the seat lock. In my case, I bought the NOS ignition switch first, then searched high and low for a NOS seat lock with the same key number until I finally found one. Yeah, that borders on OCD, but I didn't want to need 2 different keys.
@@mustang8057 excellent thanks for the info. I got a replacement ignition switch nos from ebay. Have to find a seat lock too now.
wow
Currently restoring my grandpa’s old F7-C myself, and I’ve probably watched this vid at least a dozen times for inspiration! Quick question though, what tires are those? Having a hard time finding tires sized in the 3.00-19 and 3.50-18 specs, but maybe there is some conversion I could do? Thanks!
Hello ender2999, thanks for asking! I also had a hard time finding a front tire that was A) a trials tire like the original, and B) DOT approved. The only DOT trials tire I could find in 3.00-19 was a Duro HF307, but it had a decidedly different tread pattern. I ended up going with Shinko SR-241 tires - 2.75-19 front and 3.50-18 rear. The tread pattern is a dead match to the stock Dunlops, and I've run Shinkos on other bikes with great results, so that's why. My original source for these is now out of stock, but you can get both of them today from RevZilla: www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/shinko-sr-241-series-tires?sku_id=594594
Good luck on your restoration!
@@mustang8057 Wow, thank you so much! Yeah, I too found the Duros, and then some non-trial tires. I wasn't sure about sizing and whether something like a 2.75 would be okay in place of the 3.00. That helps so much. Thanks again, and congrats on an amazing restoration!
I have a question about the fuel and vacuum lines going to the carb. There seems to be three brass nipples on the carb but, only two lines going in. Could you show me how yours are routed? I can't seem to find an exact schematic on the hoses. Thanks Jimmy
I can't post a picture, so hopefully I can explain it. As you look at the carb installed in the engine, there is a nipple on the right side, and 2 nipples on the left side. The nipple on the right side is the fuel inlet. On the left side, the front nipple is for the petcock vacuum line, and the back nipple is for the vent hose that goes back through the intake tract and exits through a hole in the back of the engine case (right below where the intake boot connects the airbox to the engine case). I hope that helps!
@@mustang8057 Thanks do much, you have done an outstanding job with your bike. I thought I had it correct but there must be another issue. I’ll figure it out. Thanks again
Hey there! Still going at my own resto. Just wondering, how did you refinish the wheel hubs and fork legs? Thanks!
Hey @ender2999! There's more to it than I can type here, it would be worth a video all on its own. You will have to experiment a bit to get the finish right. Look at pictures of NOS parts to get an idea of what the original finish looked like. The F7 was a price-point bike, meaning Kawasaki used the least amount of effort possible on the original parts. While the original parts were glossy, they had a sanding lines in them. That means they skipped grits. They started coarse, hit them with a medium grit of some sort, then went straight to buffing. Neither the hubs nor the fork leg lowers were sanded smooth like an aluminum wheel. Instead, they were somewhat "grainy", for lack of a better description.
My hubs weren't too bad, but every situation is different. I sanded the hubs first with 180 and 220 grit dry, then 320 grit wet, then a red ScotchBrite pad and finally polished by hand. If you sand with too fine a grit, the aluminum takes on a mirror-like look, which wasn't the original finish. I used Blue Magic metal polish at the end. Mother's works too well, it makes aluminum look like a mirror, which again wasn't the original finish
The fork legs lowers were sanded with different grits emery paper with the lower being held in a padded vice. I can't remember which now, but I know I ended at 320 grit. One of my fork leg lowers had some deep pitting, so I had to be pretty aggressive to even everything back out. Then I just had them powder coated in clear.
The most important thing to keep in mind is to take your time. Do a small section to test out different sanding grits and methods until you're happy with the result. It will save you time in the long run. Working about 4 hours after work each night, I have a solid week into the hubs, and about 8 hours in both the fork leg lowers.
Good luck and have fun!
Wow, thanks for the amazingly detailed write up! You’ve been such a generous and invaluable resource.
Sounds like I need to prepare to put in some elbow grease. Thanks again, I’ll def have to share my results when I’m done with all this!
I am confused , not even one puff of smoke came out of the exhaust when you started that perfect F7C . Please explain . Thanks .
Well two things are going on there. First, I'm running PJ1 Silverfire synthetic injector oil. It smokes, but a quarter as much as bean oil and it barely spooges. Second, what smoke it was making was sort of hidden by the lighting. Right when I first start it in the video, you can see some of the smoke, but it doesn't lay down a smoke screen like some premix oils.
Good to know about the better quality emissions from the PJ1 . Thanks , My many Prius and EV driving neighbors also thank you .
Where did you find your replacement parts and what not?
Hey another question, since you were so helpful with the last one! Anyway, when you were rebuilding your petcock, did you have any issues with those little cylindrical screens? I only have one screen, the shorter one, and it is torn (really, more like cracked because of how hardened and brittle it is). It doesn’t seem to be causing any problems right now but, I’d love to replace it if I could. Were you able to find a replacement for this, or was yours in good shape? Thanks!
Hello ender2999! First, my tank was in amazing shape inside, so I didn't have to replace the petcock filters. Having said that, there is also a strainer inside the petcock (#12 on the parts fiche: www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motorcycle/1974/f7-c/fuel-tank-74-75-f7-c-f6-d ), so if you ran without those filters on the petcock inlet tubes, all is not lost. Back to the petcock filters, they were never available separately from Kawasaki, however they are pretty universal across Kawasaki and Japanese bikes in general. Diablo Cycle says that Kawasaki H1 and H2 petcock filters will work, but they are out of stock ( www.diablocycle.com/Kawasaki-H2-H1-S-KH-Petcock-Fuel-Filter.html ). They are available on eBay though. Another trick to finding parts is that sometimes you have to cross brands. Kawasaki parts and Suzuki parts are often extremely similar or exactly the same with different part numbers (fork seals are a classic example of this). In this case, Suzuki sells a petcock filter set with an o-ring for the petcock used on everything from a DS80 up to a TM400. You don't need the o-ring, but the filters should work: www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/44300-28817?ref=9d71dfd0faad162bab26c31a33db79e041407647 I can't confirm that they will work 100%, but I'd bet they will and don't cost much to try. One last thing you can try is to measure the O.D. of the inlet tubes on the petcock, then search for petcock filters with that same size as the I.D. Like I said before, these filters are pretty universal, so something from another bike is bound to work. I hope that points you in the right direction, and let me know how you make out.
@@mustang8057 That is great! Thanks so much. Super helpful--that gives me a lot of options to look into. I need to get a little more crafty with looking at cross brand parts. I already bought some Suzuki fork dust cover seals that fit perfectly. I will report back with what I end up going with, hopefully to help the next person. Thanks again.
great job, I have the same bike and am now starting to restore it. It will not be as nice as yours, Is yours for sale?
Thank you, and good luck on your restoration. No, mine is not for sale, but thanks for asking.
Amazing. I have 1. My clutch is slipping.
I have one also and my clutch is slipping also.
At the 0:58 mark, you see the flywheel cover that has "Kawasaki" molded into it. Take that cover off. On the right side, right by the sprocket cover is a slotted bolt with a nut. Loosen the nut, turn the bolt in until it stops, then back it off 1/4 turn. Tighten the nut back down while holding the bolt. This adjusts the clutch pushrod freeplay so that it is not applying pressure with the clutch disengaged. As the clutch plates wear, the stack gets shorter and the pushrod will start to maintain contact. Also, make sure your clutch cable is not adjusted too tightly. These are the only 2 clutch adjustments you can make. If the clutch is still slipping after this, it's time for new plates.
mustang,
let me know if you still have the bike. its now 2021. post covid
@@stevenfurtwangler2103 I have it. 2817931344
I’m still working on my F7. I did find an NOS carb but, now I’m looking for a petcock or a rebuild kit. Any help would be appreciated
Jimmy
All years of the Kawasaki F7 use the same petcock - Kawasaki Part No. 51023-048 - as well as all years of the F9 Big Horn. It is unavailable from Kawasaki, but eBay is your friend. A quick search there turned up the individual parts, an NOS petcock ($$$$), as well as used and aftermarket petcocks. Good luck!
I have a 71 F7 175. If I sent you the carb and peacock could you rebuild them? What would the cost est. be?
Are you still having issues with the peacock?
Hey I've got another question for you (hopefully others are reading and benefitting from these as well!). Where did you get those redline numbers on the tach, and would you mind sharing what they are? I wasn't able to find them in the owner's manual. Thanks!
Hello again! That break-in decal on the tach was original to the bike - I didn't replace it. I'm not certain, but I'm pretty sure all 2-stroke Kawasaki's of the era got the same decal. 0-500 miles, stay below 4k RPMs. 500-1,000 miles, stay below 6k RPMs. You can get a reproduction break-in decal here: www.diablocycle.com/Break-In-Decal.html
@@mustang8057 Thanks!
How much you think its worth in that condition? And how much did you spend in total including extra parts ?
Your first question is difficult to answer as it's value is highly subjective. It's worth a lot more to a collector or museum who wants it to finish a display (and knows these bikes and what it takes to get them into back to original condition) than it is to someone who just wants a bike for their kid. It's worth even more to someone who has a sentimental attachment. They may have had one growing up, or like in my case, their Dad had one. The right auction with 2 bullheaded bidders would get a lot more than parking it out in the yard with a For Sale sign. NADA says it's worth $2,600 in excellent condition. I'm not selling it, so I don't even know what I would ask if I were. I do know that it would be a lot more than $2,600 though. A lot more.
As for your second question, my wife reads these comments too. So really, not very much at all. 🙂 In all honesty, for those who are thinking of taking on a project like this, you can do it for less money than you think if you're a patient, careful shopper and are really good at searching. For me, the hunt for parts is half the fun of a restoration. Finding unobtanium is like winning the lottery!
Hey i am restoring the same model and i heard that it uses the same engine parts as a ke 175 google hasnt been able to help me so i was wondering if you knew
The F7 and the KE175 engines are similar and some parts do interchange, but they are not exactly the same. The top-ends are different, but some bottom-end parts like the crankshaft and clutch assembly will interchange. I have no experience with the KEs, so my best advice is this. Find a website that has the parts fiche for both the F7-C and the KE175. Click on a part number from either and look at the "Where Used" or "Related Fitment" section to see if it was also used on the other bike. I did this a lot when I couldn't find a specific part for the F7, but it was also used on other bikes like the F9 or the G5. Good luck!
Where did you find the parts at? I just got a 1974 175 F7 and need some help finding parts
About half of the NOS parts came from eBay. I got some parts like the horn from long-time Kawasaki dealers who just happened to have them still in inventory. Some hard-to-find parts came from www.cmsnl.com - they are very good to deal with. Believe it or not, most of the fastener hardware is still available from Kawasaki. Check out the parts fiche at www.partzilla.com.
Mustang thank you so much!
@@baileybrungardt6440 Anytime! Many of the parts on the F7 also fit other Kawasaki bikes of the era. So if you can't find something by searching with "F7", try to find another bike that the part fits and search for it. An example of this is the headlight rim, which fits all Kawasaki F7s, as well as '73 and on F9s and F11s.
Mustang awesome! Know anything about finding a carburetor for the F7 or which ones would go with it off the top of your head
The carb is one of those parts that is specific to the F7, and because it's a rotary valve engine, only that carb will fit. The part no. is 16001-197. Keep searching, and one will turn up. It took me over a year to find all the parts I needed at the price I was willing to pay. It is fun though. Good luck!
Where did you get your gasket
I got a NOS Kawasaki gasket set with the oil seals off of eBay.
@@mustang8057 thank you so much sir
I will buy it if you still have it and decide to sell to o good home.
I have an opportunity to buy one for $250 guy claims all it needs is a carb. eBay is loaded with parts for this bike. I’ll take a shot at it
still not for sale?
Sorry, the bike is not for sale.
let me know what it would take to change your mind
(616) 309-3713
😂when I worked for a kawasaki dealer in the 70,s after tuning one up on the test ride goofing off I flipped the 175 over backwards about 30 mph ,got alittle scraped up,nothing bad but it hit hard on front wheel a bent the frame!! I SHOULD HAVE BEEN FIRED!! JUST AN MISHAP THEY SAID!