Excellent - Master Machinist explaining how & why. The older Factory Service Manual, March 1971, SM-1, p. 3-7, 3) b.(i) Head Torque "approximately 18 ft.lb / 2.5 kg-m" ; same range as comments here. We thin oil coat the base gasket to hold it in place. Thanks for best practice to anneal used head gasket - not mentioned in most repair manuals.
Thank you for the kind words, ah so it's just not me that can't find it. The previous manual had it and it was omitted in the one I have. Thank you I thought I was losing my mind. I have done the oil on the gaskets in the past, mostly use thin grease to hold them in place. Just didn't on this one, forgetful, I guess. Thanks for the torque spec my friend.
Thanks for another Great Video Dale: Wish it was available in 1970 when I was overhauling my 60's Ossa 175 striped-down Wild Fire on my knees on our apartment's utility room floor.
Hey John, man I'm with you......I remember building lots of bikes on the kitchen table and the floor somewhere. The wife hated it. You just do what you have to do.
Everyone loves your videos Dale, thanks so much for letting us come along on the ride! The F7 is starting to get there, looking forward to it's first fire.
Great video. Love the honing segment. Looks like our view was from the other side this time. It is amazing that you can routinely hit the clearance within a tenth. I'm sure it'll run like a champ.
Thank you, my friend, I was disappointed that the sun washed out the gauge reading though. It's always a balancing act......good light so I can see, or good light so you can see.
Thanks Pete, that's all I wear my friend. After wearing a uniform for over forty years.....I like the tee shirt look and feel, my wife knows not to pass up a good racing tee shirt. I have gotten several over the years from some of my viewers too. They know what I like.
Piston fit looked really good Dale, I think this will be a very crisp runner. Weather is picking up here too, I had the D7 Bantam running up the road to work through some teething issues. Best wishes, Dean.
Thanks Dale. Really enjoying the F7 restoration. The torque figures in my factory F3 manual are in a table at the back. The cylinder head nuts are listed at 16 lb/ft. You've done the the F7 at 15 lb/ft so I think all's well. Cheers, Peter.
Thanks Peter, getting a lot of feedback from folks on this torque value. Everyone is right at the same value. Thanks Peter, I sure appreciate it. And most agree it's not in the issue of the Kawasaki manual I have, that reassuring.
Hey Dale, great work, as usual. I also ran into the same issue finding the torque spec for the cylinder head. I have the factory and Clymer manual. Nowhere to be found in the factory one, but according to Clymer, it's 14 ft-lbs.
Thank you, and thanks for the torque spec, it's not just me then, I looked cover to cover and could not see it. Guess I will be getting a Clymer too. Thanks man.
@@montana2strokeracer , hey Dale. I have been crazy busy here at the house. We remodeled the kitchen, got new fence down one side of the house, and a 27’ section behind my garage and between my neighbors garage and mine. As for my shop, I still need to find an architect that will just do a garage. So far all of the firms I have contacted only do new home construction.
smart to double check the keepers, nothing worse thinking maybe you forgot one, it will bug you until you pull apart to check, and its always there of course.
Most of the Japanese 2 strokes I worked on had 2 rings, top ring chromed (iron liner of course), lower ring plain cast iron. For racing with chromed bore the rings were both cast iron - Hepolite said never run chrome/chrome.
Dale you mentioned that you might be putting the extra f7 piston and cylinder up for sale. I certainly would be interested in purchasing. I picked up a 71 f7 last fall and have redoing it for myself. It runs put the top end rattles more than I like.
Hey Dale, I want to get mine going before I turn loose of it. As you know they are hard to find. I still have to bore and fit the piston, I'm sorry when I get ready to sell, it won't be cheap. I have been thinking of sending this piston to Wiseco to see if they can make some. I have done this before, but you have to front the cash to get it done. I will keep you posted on the channel if I do it.
I believe that is true when they have both a thick and thin ring. But on the early Yamaha's both rings were the same thickness, and the expander went under the bottom one also.
Good job done there Dale. I've never seen a single cylinder 2 stroke with 2 spark plugs. why does it have 2? also good job on lapping the cylinder head, lapping the head always worrys me that you will remove two much material from one side say if you use a little to much hand pressure on one side. I no in the past thats what has happen to me.
Hey Brian, I just put two in it till I get the block off plug for the one hole. It only needs one plug; the other hole is for a compression release or a spare spark plug (but I never use it for a spare plug). When lapping a head or cylinder do not use any downward pressure. Only the weight of the item is required. Never had a bad experience doing this for the past 50 years. 360 or 400 grit wet and dry paper only.
Dale, Why did you choose the mandrel with the replaceable wear pad instead of the traditional two stone expandable mandrel with dual wear pads? I ran a Sunnen hone for nearly twenty years. Curiosity I guess. Currently restoring a 1993 Suzuki RMX250 and having difficulty with loss of compression trying initial start after top end overhaul. Had the cylinder off twice now and rings stuck tight in ring lands creating loss of compression. Wiseco Piston assembly. Leaning towards lands being tight at bottom. When rings are compressed in cylinder bore and under a compression stroke during kick start cycles rings are bottoming and locking up. Your thoughts? Love you content. Jeff Davison. Saginaw. MI.
Hey Jeff, it's all about size, the AN600 (with the two stones and wipers) that you described will not go small enough to do the Kawasaki cylinder (2.42 inches), the AN600 will hone (2.5 inch to 6 inch) check out this video I went through all the mandrels I use and why. th-cam.com/video/W2YXJpCwi4U/w-d-xo.html Kind of sounds like it might be a manufacturers defect on those ring lands. I would call Wiseco up and ask them. I'm sure you have checked that you are installing the rings with any markings on the rings "UP". Good luck with your project.
@@montana2strokeracer Hey Dale, Yes I made sure they were oriented in the UP position. I called Wiseco about it and they felt it was a manufacturers defect. Unfortunately I didn't purchase direct from them and seeing it was put into a COMPETITION motorcycle they wouldn't cover a 30 warranty. I'm going to purchase another piston and hope it takes care of the issue. I'll keep you posted on results. Best of luck with the Bushwacker and the MX 250. Jeff.
I should add that I did just purchase a new standard f7 piston pricey to say the least. Now to find a good original cylinder. Perhaps they can be resleeved?
You will have to contact a sleeve maker (like LA Sleeve) the last one I contacted them about was a 175 Yamaha enduro, they wanted 450.00 then, it was probably 4 years back. I would try to find a cylinder, but it will be hard to find a standard size that doesn't need a bore, not impossible but tuff.
Hi welcome to the channel, a couple of episodes ago I bored the cylinder to the next oversize because of 50 years of wear. So, I normally don't have time in the boring video to do the hone and piston fit. This time I just included a little bit of the honing and just went into the build afterwards. Check the boring video out here: th-cam.com/video/yFTe7SInT-Y/w-d-xo.html
Excellent - Master Machinist explaining how & why. The older Factory Service Manual, March 1971, SM-1, p. 3-7, 3) b.(i) Head Torque "approximately 18 ft.lb / 2.5 kg-m" ; same range as comments here. We thin oil coat the base gasket to hold it in place. Thanks for best practice to anneal used head gasket - not mentioned in most repair manuals.
Thank you for the kind words, ah so it's just not me that can't find it. The previous manual had it and it was omitted in the one I have. Thank you I thought I was losing my mind. I have done the oil on the gaskets in the past, mostly use thin grease to hold them in place. Just didn't on this one, forgetful, I guess. Thanks for the torque spec my friend.
Thanks for another Great Video Dale: Wish it was available in 1970 when I was overhauling my 60's Ossa 175 striped-down Wild Fire on my knees on our apartment's utility room floor.
Hey John, man I'm with you......I remember building lots of bikes on the kitchen table and the floor somewhere. The wife hated it. You just do what you have to do.
Thanks for another great show Mr. Dale. Fun to watch. You do a wonderful job. Keep up the good work.💯👍🏁
Thanks Bill, nice to see you here.
Everyone loves your videos Dale, thanks so much for letting us come along on the ride! The F7 is starting to get there, looking forward to it's first fire.
Thanks Jeff, nice to see you here. I too am ready to see it fire and fly.
this channel deserves way more subs than it has
Thanks Chris, its growing ever so slowly.
Sure miss my old 2 strokes. Fun watching you work on your projects. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Dana, they are fun to ride and play with, brings back great memories.
Another one saved. Bet it will run great!! Awesome to see and share the ride with you.
Yes indeed, I sure hope so. Lot yet to be done on this bike, stay tuned.
Looking forward to hearing it run Dale! Have a great weekend
Thanks David, me too, it is always a great day when they run at last.
Great video. Love the honing segment. Looks like our view was from the other side this time. It is amazing that you can routinely hit the clearance within a tenth. I'm sure it'll run like a champ.
Thank you, my friend, I was disappointed that the sun washed out the gauge reading though. It's always a balancing act......good light so I can see, or good light so you can see.
Great job as usual! You must have quite a collection of motorcycle/racing tee shirts!
Thanks Pete, that's all I wear my friend. After wearing a uniform for over forty years.....I like the tee shirt look and feel, my wife knows not to pass up a good racing tee shirt. I have gotten several over the years from some of my viewers too. They know what I like.
Always stylish, my friend!
Piston fit looked really good Dale, I think this will be a very crisp runner. Weather is picking up here too, I had the D7 Bantam running up the road to work through some teething issues. Best wishes, Dean.
Hey Dean, its nice getting them out after a winter slumber. Were the cops out there looking for you trying to race the bantam. LOL
He Dale, looking good. I think you'd make a damn good president.😊
LOL, dirt bikes for everyone my friend!
Thanks Dale , I cant wait to hear her run ! Great work .
Me too Murray, this one has been in work for a couple years now. Time to make some progress.
Thanks Dale. Really enjoying the F7 restoration.
The torque figures in my factory F3 manual are in a table at the back. The cylinder head nuts are listed at 16 lb/ft. You've done the the F7 at 15 lb/ft so I think all's well.
Cheers, Peter.
Thanks Peter, getting a lot of feedback from folks on this torque value. Everyone is right at the same value. Thanks Peter, I sure appreciate it. And most agree it's not in the issue of the Kawasaki manual I have, that reassuring.
Thanks for getting back to me. I do appreciate it. I would also be interested in joining in on a Wisco run.
We are all good Larry, thanks for stopping by and for the milestone first, there are a couple guys out there with hair triggers.
Those Kawasakis were little rockets , a buddy of mine had a brand new 238 Green Streak and it was fast in the day !
John you are so right, I remember the 100 and 238 green streaks, they were indeed a force to be reconned with.
Hey Dale, great work, as usual. I also ran into the same issue finding the torque spec for the cylinder head. I have the factory and Clymer manual. Nowhere to be found in the factory one, but according to Clymer, it's 14 ft-lbs.
Thank you, and thanks for the torque spec, it's not just me then, I looked cover to cover and could not see it. Guess I will be getting a Clymer too. Thanks man.
Nice work Dale ledgend not much else to say .
Thanks, Darren, for the kind words. Sure, appreciate you taking the time to watch.
well, 1st at the shop, hope you have the coffee/donuts ready.
I do believe you were first Frank.....good job, probably caught Dean in the UK at work. Heading out to Denny's right now for a Grand Slam!
Looks great Dale. When I get home I’ll look through my book and see if I can find some info for you.
Thanks Cain, and you did, thanks for the text on the torque specs.
@@montana2strokeracer you’re welcome brother.
awesome good Dale
Good morning Dale, checking in to see what's up today.
Hey Don, haven't seen any action over at your channel lately. You started on your new shop yet.
@@montana2strokeracer , hey Dale.
I have been crazy busy here at the house. We remodeled the kitchen, got new fence down one side of the house, and a 27’ section behind my garage and between my neighbors garage and mine.
As for my shop, I still need to find an architect that will just do a garage. So far all of the firms I have contacted only do new home construction.
smart to double check the keepers, nothing worse thinking maybe you forgot one, it will bug you until you pull apart to check, and its always there of course.
You bet the way my memory is....I double check everything.
Most of the Japanese 2 strokes I worked on had 2 rings, top ring chromed (iron liner of course), lower ring plain cast iron. For racing with chromed bore the rings were both cast iron - Hepolite said never run chrome/chrome.
Yes sir, that all sound correct to me. Yep chrome on chrome will never seat.
Dale you mentioned that you might be putting the extra f7 piston and cylinder up for sale. I certainly would be interested in purchasing. I picked up a 71 f7 last fall and have redoing it for myself. It runs put the top end rattles more than I like.
Hey Dale, I want to get mine going before I turn loose of it. As you know they are hard to find. I still have to bore and fit the piston, I'm sorry when I get ready to sell, it won't be cheap. I have been thinking of sending this piston to Wiseco to see if they can make some. I have done this before, but you have to front the cash to get it done. I will keep you posted on the channel if I do it.
Everyone I've done with expander ring it goes with thinner ring. Otherwise will bind up
I believe that is true when they have both a thick and thin ring. But on the early Yamaha's both rings were the same thickness, and the expander went under the bottom one also.
Merci 👌👍👍👍👍👍👍
Good job done there Dale. I've never seen a single cylinder 2 stroke with 2 spark plugs. why does it have 2? also good job on lapping the cylinder head, lapping the head always worrys me that you will remove two much material from one side say if you use a little to much hand pressure on one side. I no in the past thats what has happen to me.
Hey Brian, I just put two in it till I get the block off plug for the one hole. It only needs one plug; the other hole is for a compression release or a spare spark plug (but I never use it for a spare plug). When lapping a head or cylinder do not use any downward pressure. Only the weight of the item is required. Never had a bad experience doing this for the past 50 years. 360 or 400 grit wet and dry paper only.
Rock the casbah ( song )
Yes fix it Peace out wow
Dale, Why did you choose the mandrel with the replaceable wear pad instead of the traditional two stone expandable mandrel with dual wear pads? I ran a Sunnen hone for nearly twenty years. Curiosity I guess.
Currently restoring a 1993 Suzuki RMX250 and having difficulty with loss of compression trying initial start after top end overhaul. Had the cylinder off twice now and rings stuck tight in ring lands creating loss of compression. Wiseco Piston assembly. Leaning towards lands being tight at bottom. When rings are compressed in cylinder bore and under a compression stroke during kick start cycles rings are bottoming and locking up.
Your thoughts? Love you content.
Jeff Davison. Saginaw. MI.
Hey Jeff, it's all about size, the AN600 (with the two stones and wipers) that you described will not go small enough to do the Kawasaki cylinder (2.42 inches), the AN600 will hone (2.5 inch to 6 inch) check out this video I went through all the mandrels I use and why. th-cam.com/video/W2YXJpCwi4U/w-d-xo.html
Kind of sounds like it might be a manufacturers defect on those ring lands. I would call Wiseco up and ask them. I'm sure you have checked that you are installing the rings with any markings on the rings "UP". Good luck with your project.
@@montana2strokeracer Hey Dale, Yes I made sure they were oriented in the UP position. I called Wiseco about it and they felt it was a manufacturers defect. Unfortunately I didn't purchase direct from them and seeing it was put into a COMPETITION motorcycle they wouldn't cover a 30 warranty. I'm going to purchase another piston and hope it takes care of the issue. I'll keep you posted on results. Best of luck with the Bushwacker and the MX 250.
Jeff.
Thanks Dale! I cant wait to see this thing all finished up.
Still a lot to do on this project, but getting closer.
I should add that I did just purchase a new standard f7 piston pricey to say the least. Now to find a good original cylinder. Perhaps they can be resleeved?
You will have to contact a sleeve maker (like LA Sleeve) the last one I contacted them about was a 175 Yamaha enduro, they wanted 450.00 then, it was probably 4 years back. I would try to find a cylinder, but it will be hard to find a standard size that doesn't need a bore, not impossible but tuff.
I'm looking, thanks
What was the reason for honing the cylinder out, was it for rough running or better performance? Thanks !
Hi welcome to the channel, a couple of episodes ago I bored the cylinder to the next oversize because of 50 years of wear. So, I normally don't have time in the boring video to do the hone and piston fit. This time I just included a little bit of the honing and just went into the build afterwards. Check the boring video out here: th-cam.com/video/yFTe7SInT-Y/w-d-xo.html
great job as aiways dale looks well should be sweet as a nut next video please
Thanks Mark, I happy to be getting it together. Some just take longer than others.
isnt the top ring always the compression and the second a oil scrapper. thought all engines with 2 rings were assembled the same!
Two strokes don't have oil scrapers, most racing bikes only have one ring, the street or enduro type utilize 2. Both are compression.
You'll find most heads are 18-21ft-lbs
Hey Jim, it's just different with everyone. Very interesting to watch the pattern emerge then go away during boring.
Copper for exhaust gasket
I am sure it would work, but the price.....I found some automotive header gasket material, if it blows out I will try it.