We've added English subtitles to this video. We work hard to reach as many people around the world and help them learn woodworking. We need your help to translate our videos subtitles to your language and progress our work. Please contribute translations here: th-cam.com/users/timedtext_cs_panel?tab=2&c=UCc3EpWncNq5QL0QhwUNQb7w
All I've ever heard about since becoming a TH-cam woodworking content watcher is "safety safety safety." No lose clothing around spinning tools and machines. And here, Paul throws that out the window. Boring the hole through the apron was hard to watch. Kidding 😂 It was awesome. Rebel.
I am rather new to woodworking Mr. Sellers. and you have opened up a whole world of working wood with only hand tools. my whole thinking before I watched your videos was only about power tools. I never gave it thought that power tools have only been around since mid 20th century.. and woodworking far preceeds that. I caught your videos at just the right time. your involvement with wood is much more intimate than with big noisy dust making machines. thanks for passing on your knowledge.
I have used every plane that's made. I can say that the very 1st plane to buy is a pre 70s Bailey-pattern Stanley #4 smoothing plane. The 2nd plane I think would be a pre 70s Bailey-pattern Stanley #5 jack plane. Then go for a wider smoothing plane, again, a pre 70s Bailey-pattern Stanley #4 1/2, but that may not be good for a lightweight, small person. My last bench plane would be a pre 70s Bailey-pattern Stanley #5 1/2. After these. I'd consider a Lie Nielsen or a Veritas bevel up jack plane.
This is a terrific series Mr. Sellers, I can't wait to see the next video on the glue up. My grandfather was a cabinet maker and this series got me back into woodworking after being out of it for a long time. It's amazing how centering and rewarding working with wood can become.
I just love your videos. Working outside was an absolutely brilliant idea. It reinforces one of the positive aspects of working with hand tools over power tools -- less noise! It actually looks peaceful and relaxing and makes me want to start my own bench in the same fashion. Thank you.
I have no doubt in that! In the past I had some problems with these bolts and I wanted to offer my solution. ;) The wedges in the housings are brilliant, I am so glad, I didn't built a "real" workbench yet. Thanks a lot.
Jacob, The black head is softer, for assembly, so that it doesn't mar the surface of the wood. The yellow head is hard plastic, impact resistent, and used for more direct strikes as on the chisel.
I watched all of the videos, and began my own bench using the techniques you so kindly shared. I love working with hand tools, but those clamps from HF you are using broke on the first glue up!! Thanks for sharing and keeping the trade going.
Thank you for adding this video. I am currently working on this bench. Bit by bit. Total amateur, but it is a good winter project. Thank you for your inspiration, and instruction.
I recently completed my own bench following Paul's method (skipped ahead a bit :)) He is right, it is rock solid. One thing I did that might help others in my situation (not enough clamps big enough to glue the H-Frame) was to use 2 ratchet straps with cauls (wooden pads to protect the work). Simply loop the strap around just above the joint and hook the ends together, insert the cauls between the strap and leg, and tighten the straps equally. Mine came out perfectly square with little effort
Ideally, cupboards independent of the bench are best. We consider this because we don't all have extra space. The apron drawer of my bench works fine, but sometimes I need a tool from that drawer. First-world problems like this happen. I don't use holdfasts and I don't advocate dogs because a clamp in the vise takes care of everything I need. Under the bench cabinets only get shavings inside if you leave the door or drawer open, which you can't do for obvious reasons. I think they work fine.
We plan on doing a tool cupboard with drawers and cupboard underneath that can be slid in and out from the ends, but that will be after the coffee table, toolbox, rocking chair and hope chest.
Yes, you will. This is the value of always seeking improvement. As a teacher, I frequently find that what i did even a year ago has been improved on and so becomes outdated. This TH-cam, my blog, the forums and woodworkingmasterclasses. c o m are now the way forward and we keep on improving day by day.
Under-bench cabinets are acceptable if you don't have room, but all you need is a 3' wide by 2' deep by 5.5' high rolling tool board. May I ask why you avoid holdfasts? I use my old-style Sjoberg's holdfasts all the time and find them to be very helpful. Truth is, I could get along w/ a few of them and no vice at all. I understand that some of this is just a matter of preference, but I respect you so much I'm anxious to see how your complete system works.
I think those carriage bolts will become loose in the wood, because the square part will not hold forever as the hole gets worn out, especially when you want the bench to be mobile, that means a lot of (dis)assembling. There are washers for these bolts with a square hole. I drill 2 little extra holes in those washers and nail them in a countersink which i drill. That way I can make sure, that the bolt head will alway grab and I can tighten the nut. Apart from that, nice craftsmanship as allways.
Surprisingly, they stay fast and the bench apron doesn't work lose because the inside wedges drop with any shrinkage or racking. It is always rigid, and remember, I have used these benches since 1965.
I haven't seen you use power tools often in your videos, but when you do, you go for the best! Do you recommend buying Makita kit? And if so, what do you like about this brand?
The question is did you apply too much pressure or was the clamp flawed and, also, it sounds from what you say that they all broke. Is that the case? I have broken one of these clamps before, but they take them back and replace without question, so that works.
Storing anything under a workbench is an iffy idea. #1, it's right below the spot where you make sawdust, shavings & chips. Then, you've got a board in the vice & realize you need a tool that's in a drawer down there but you can't open it because the board is in the way. Also, you want to install a holdfast in the top of your bench, but because you're a "utilise-every-cubic-inch-of-space" guy, you made the cabinet right up to the underside of the bench top.
Mr. Sellers, When will part 2 of assembly be posted? I'm holding my breath and turning blue...! In all seriousness, I'm planning for a new bench myself and have really benefited from watching your how too videos. My woodworking space is extremely limited as I live in a second floor condominium with my wife and almost 3 year old son. My current bench is pitiful and extremely small, and I won't have much more room for the new one. Can't wait to see your bench completed!
A fantastic series, and I can't wait for the final installation! I've been starting some basic woodworking (built a frame-supported cabinet for a large fish tank), and life would be much easier with a bench. I found this as I was working through plans and it certainly looks by far better than most simple-bolted 2x4 setups. I do have a question though: how difficult is the planing for the laminar setups for a beginning woodworker? Certainly don't want to pock the boards to pieces. Thanks!
Finally I found this part again about the housing dado to the leg.. Somehow I kept thinking there was an extra part that upon watching this again I realized that the leg itself is what fits in the housing dado. Why it took me so long to find this part is a mystery.. Well actually it's just me getting old with the rest of you and forgetting things.. I have the legs complete so now it's time to prepare the aprons and the tops.. So to get this correct the leg fits into the dado, one side of the dado is at 90° while the other side is tapered.. Is this correct?
I saw your videos and thought to myself I have those tools! I can get wood! I can do that! I am making a table for my hand crank blower for my forge, the first one I putt together was horrible. it was uneven and wobbled, one set of legs wobbles right off!. it was too low forcing me to bend over and killing my back. I am waiting for the glue to dry on my table top, now to get the legs ready!
Not too much pressure, I used bessey pipe clamps to take the heavier load. It seems to me that the pipe clamps, while certainly more expensive, can handle a larger amount of pressure. I'll see if they accept the return. Thanks.
Great stuff. But now I regret not having waited a bit longer with building my little bench. I like the wedge, and I didn't realize your bench would have those from the previous videos... I guess I have to upgrade my bench again soon ;) BTW, what's the intended posting date for part 9.2? Looking forward to see the completed bench!
You can follow this same series in written and photographed form to completion on my blog too. Got to w w w w.woodworkingmasterclasses.c o m and click on my series, go to the making-the-workbench making series and you can unite both media methods as you build.
If I don't want a screw in my work, for practical or decorative reasons, I'll glue and screw my pieces together, then after the glue dries, I'll pull the screws and install trenails or dowels.
+colmhain i usually just sink my screws a bit deeper than surface level and cover it with a dowel, if you're gonna stick a dowel in anyway you might as well leave the screw in there for strength and stability, although tenons and glue is really all you need.
+colmhain also i like to put dowels straight through the tenons, with the holes in the leg/cross beam slightly offset so it pulls the tenon tight as the dowel is hammered through.
+colmhain and i like to stain the dowels a darker color so it contrasts with the surrounding wood when leveled and finished :) sorry for all the reply's, lol - ill stop now. peace
Paul, I have noticed how important your hand plane is to you. I am planning on buying a high quality (Lie-Nielson) plane very soon. Obviously I can not afford to buy a whole set. So which is the one plane you consider most important?
You may have mentioned, but I might have missed it, but what is your ratio for your tenons, is it 1 third of the width of the wood makes the tenon and 2 thirds make the shoulders?
I've building my own bench following yours and I have a little sag in the aprons, probably because I tightened the bolts very hard... I also need portability so I can't glue the top to the apron for straighten it up... What do you think of attaching a center rail with a long screw in the middle and nuts and washers on each end?
Hey Paul, Nice video as always, just a quick question with the mallet you use for tapping together has two different heads, a black and a yellow one, any preference to which head to use? thanks :)
Hi Paul, it looks like your bearers are cut from 2x4 but in some of your sketches you list them as being 1.25 inches thick. I had trouble finding wood of 1.25 inches thick so i bought 25mm thick board. Could I just use 2x4 offcuts or should the 25mm thickness stripboard be ok? Thanks
I'm doing diploma joinery I'm after architecture joinery level 3 paul can u please let me no on of ur hand mortice and tennon plough jig from uk to me please but will u set it up 😢😢😢
If I recall correctly from another video, Mr. Sellers uses a powered drill for one-handed operation. This allows him to steady the piece with his 'free' hand.
Excellent, now to finish my laminations and get bizzy cutting housings-with the poor bastards router of course! (never could stand the noise of a power router, never will plug one in again)
+Roman Ger That's an odd question. English people don't have guns unless they are farmers. English woodworkers aren't called upon to defend themselves with deadly force on a very frequent basis fortunately.
I could really care less about the decorative effects of a workbench.. I want it to withstand whatever abuse it may encounter far more than whether it's pretty or not. I did auto body work for years and the bench I used was ugly and covered by hundreds of layers of different types of paint over the years. The customers never care if the workbench is pretty as long as their car is pretty.. I suspect that the same holds true for a woodworking bench..
The screw at 16:31 doesn't appear to make it through the board *_at all_*. Oh, and one turn of a screw will rip right out of the wood. It's that old "weakest link" routine.
![Watch me BUILD this beautiful WORKBENCH…[2 Month Timelapse]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ob-nEWnTTWI/mqdefault.jpg)
We've added English subtitles to this video.
We work hard to reach as many people around the world and help them learn woodworking. We need your help to translate our videos subtitles to your language and progress our work.
Please contribute translations here: th-cam.com/users/timedtext_cs_panel?tab=2&c=UCc3EpWncNq5QL0QhwUNQb7w
All I've ever heard about since becoming a TH-cam woodworking content watcher is "safety safety safety." No lose clothing around spinning tools and machines. And here, Paul throws that out the window. Boring the hole through the apron was hard to watch.
Kidding 😂 It was awesome. Rebel.
Thanks for the series. I went back and watched from the beginning. Good job.
Old School! And my how your own career has grown since this comment. ❤it!
His awkwardness with the cordless drill is a testament to his dedication to hand tools and working word.
You are most welcome. I think it's a good winter project too.
I am rather new to woodworking Mr. Sellers. and you have opened up a whole world of working wood with only hand tools. my whole thinking before I watched your videos was only about power tools. I never gave it thought that power tools have only been around since mid 20th century.. and woodworking far preceeds that. I caught your videos at just the right time. your involvement with wood is much more intimate than with big noisy dust making machines. thanks for passing on your knowledge.
I have used every plane that's made. I can say that the very 1st plane to buy is a pre 70s Bailey-pattern Stanley #4 smoothing plane. The 2nd plane I think would be a pre 70s Bailey-pattern Stanley #5 jack plane. Then go for a wider smoothing plane, again, a pre 70s Bailey-pattern Stanley #4 1/2, but that may not be good for a lightweight, small person. My last bench plane would be a pre 70s Bailey-pattern Stanley #5 1/2. After these. I'd consider a Lie Nielsen or a Veritas bevel up jack plane.
That wedge is ingenious!
This is a terrific series Mr. Sellers, I can't wait to see the next video on the glue up. My grandfather was a cabinet maker and this series got me back into woodworking after being out of it for a long time. It's amazing how centering and rewarding working with wood can become.
I just love your videos. Working outside was an absolutely brilliant idea. It reinforces one of the positive aspects of working with hand tools over power tools -- less noise! It actually looks peaceful and relaxing and makes me want to start my own bench in the same fashion. Thank you.
I have no doubt in that! In the past I had some problems with these bolts and I wanted to offer my solution. ;) The wedges in the housings are brilliant, I am so glad, I didn't built a "real" workbench yet. Thanks a lot.
My Dad and mt grandfather had those old hand drills.I used them as a kid. I wish I still had one for old times sake.
I just scored my Dad's hand drill. I am going to use it on my bench just for giggles.
Jacob, The black head is softer, for assembly, so that it doesn't mar the surface of the wood. The yellow head is hard plastic, impact resistent, and used for more direct strikes as on the chisel.
That F-ing wedge, so cool! Thanks Paul!
It's like christmas all over again! I've waited for this for a while now. Thank you for this.
I watched all of the videos, and began my own bench using the techniques you so kindly shared. I love working with hand tools, but those clamps from HF you are using broke on the first glue up!! Thanks for sharing and keeping the trade going.
Thank you for adding this video. I am currently working on this bench. Bit by bit. Total amateur, but it is a good winter project. Thank you for your inspiration, and instruction.
I recently completed my own bench following Paul's method (skipped ahead a bit :)) He is right, it is rock solid. One thing I did that might help others in my situation (not enough clamps big enough to glue the H-Frame) was to use 2 ratchet straps with cauls (wooden pads to protect the work). Simply loop the strap around just above the joint and hook the ends together, insert the cauls between the strap and leg, and tighten the straps equally. Mine came out perfectly square with little effort
2x4s are usually around 1 1/2" and I plane some off each side which is how they end up at 1 1/4".
I'm using carriage bolts in another application and that tip will come in quite handy. Thanks for posting it.
Ideally, cupboards independent of the bench are best. We consider this because we don't all have extra space. The apron drawer of my bench works fine, but sometimes I need a tool from that drawer. First-world problems like this happen. I don't use holdfasts and I don't advocate dogs because a clamp in the vise takes care of everything I need. Under the bench cabinets only get shavings inside if you leave the door or drawer open, which you can't do for obvious reasons. I think they work fine.
We plan on doing a tool cupboard with drawers and cupboard underneath that can be slid in and out from the ends, but that will be after the coffee table, toolbox, rocking chair and hope chest.
It is wonderful to see someone using a bit and brace drill.
Yes, you will. This is the value of always seeking improvement. As a teacher, I frequently find that what i did even a year ago has been improved on and so becomes outdated. This TH-cam, my blog, the forums and woodworkingmasterclasses. c o m are now the way forward and we keep on improving day by day.
your craftmanship makes me want to try this bench
You can simply screw the aprons to the edge of the benchtop through the side of the apron. I have often done that. Just use heavy screws.
Hi Paul,
Very good inspiration.
I have started on my own version. This will have drawers for tools below the bench top.
Thank You.
I love this series, thank you so much for imparting some of your experience and knowledge!
This is such an exciting project I cannot wait to see the last video please put up the next video thank you
Terrific series. Can't wait till part 2. (I was in Abersoch just down the road from you this past summer. Wonderful holiday.)
it make my inspiration, I'm the beginner for woodwork , now i have to start work bench
thank you so much.
Its the best shop class ever
Under-bench cabinets are acceptable if you don't have room, but all you need is a 3' wide by 2' deep by 5.5' high rolling tool board. May I ask why you avoid holdfasts? I use my old-style Sjoberg's holdfasts all the time and find them to be very helpful. Truth is, I could get along w/ a few of them and no vice at all. I understand that some of this is just a matter of preference, but I respect you so much I'm anxious to see how your complete system works.
I think those carriage bolts will become loose in the wood, because the square part will not hold forever as the hole gets worn out, especially when you want the bench to be mobile, that means a lot of (dis)assembling. There are washers for these bolts with a square hole. I drill 2 little extra holes in those washers and nail them in a countersink which i drill. That way I can make sure, that the bolt head will alway grab and I can tighten the nut. Apart from that, nice craftsmanship as allways.
Must say, you make it look so very easy.
Surprisingly, they stay fast and the bench apron doesn't work lose because the inside wedges drop with any shrinkage or racking. It is always rigid, and remember, I have used these benches since 1965.
I liked the jackdaws in the background too; and the seagulls.
Thank yo so much sir for sharing of the knowledge.You are indeed a great teacher.
Can't wait till you finish this, so I can start mine !
I haven't seen you use power tools often in your videos, but when you do, you go for the best! Do you recommend buying Makita kit? And if so, what do you like about this brand?
The question is did you apply too much pressure or was the clamp flawed and, also, it sounds from what you say that they all broke. Is that the case? I have broken one of these clamps before, but they take them back and replace without question, so that works.
Thank you very much for the quick response and all the good info!
Storing anything under a workbench is an iffy idea. #1, it's right below the spot where you make sawdust, shavings & chips. Then, you've got a board in the vice & realize you need a tool that's in a drawer down there but you can't open it because the board is in the way. Also, you want to install a holdfast in the top of your bench, but because you're a "utilise-every-cubic-inch-of-space" guy, you made the cabinet right up to the underside of the bench top.
Mr. Sellers, When will part 2 of assembly be posted? I'm holding my breath and turning blue...!
In all seriousness, I'm planning for a new bench myself and have really benefited from watching your how too videos. My woodworking space is extremely limited as I live in a second floor condominium with my wife and almost 3 year old son. My current bench is pitiful and extremely small, and I won't have much more room for the new one. Can't wait to see your bench completed!
A fantastic series, and I can't wait for the final installation! I've been starting some basic woodworking (built a frame-supported cabinet for a large fish tank), and life would be much easier with a bench. I found this as I was working through plans and it certainly looks by far better than most simple-bolted 2x4 setups. I do have a question though: how difficult is the planing for the laminar setups for a beginning woodworker? Certainly don't want to pock the boards to pieces. Thanks!
Finally I found this part again about the housing dado to the leg.. Somehow I kept thinking there was an extra part that upon watching this again I realized that the leg itself is what fits in the housing dado.
Why it took me so long to find this part is a mystery.. Well actually it's just me getting old with the rest of you and forgetting things..
I have the legs complete so now it's time to prepare the aprons and the tops..
So to get this correct the leg fits into the dado, one side of the dado is at 90° while the other side is tapered.. Is this correct?
I saw your videos and thought to myself I have those tools! I can get wood! I can do that! I am making a table for my hand crank blower for my forge, the first one I putt together was horrible. it was uneven and wobbled, one set of legs wobbles right off!. it was too low forcing me to bend over and killing my back. I am waiting for the glue to dry on my table top, now to get the legs ready!
Not too much pressure, I used bessey pipe clamps to take the heavier load. It seems to me that the pipe clamps, while certainly more expensive, can handle a larger amount of pressure. I'll see if they accept the return. Thanks.
"...you could never have enough clamps..." Words of wisdom :)
Quite a surprise when you pulled out that electric hand drill. I was expecting a brace and bit. I have one, and use it once in a while.
Great stuff. But now I regret not having waited a bit longer with building my little bench. I like the wedge, and I didn't realize your bench would have those from the previous videos... I guess I have to upgrade my bench again soon ;)
BTW, what's the intended posting date for part 9.2? Looking forward to see the completed bench!
dear mr sellers, when may we expect a new part of this project? thanks for the inspiring videos
Thankyou.
I do like Paul's video's. All the others only seem to do sharpening video's and try and claim to be experts but never really make anything.
Dear Paul,
I was wondering, is there a special reason why you don't use drawbores on the leg tenons but glue instead?
Paul Stoop
You can follow this same series in written and photographed form to completion on my blog too. Got to w w w w.woodworkingmasterclasses.c o m and click on my series, go to the making-the-workbench making series and you can unite both media methods as you build.
If I don't want a screw in my work, for practical or decorative reasons, I'll glue and screw my pieces together, then after the glue dries, I'll pull the screws and install trenails or dowels.
+colmhain i usually just sink my screws a bit deeper than surface level and cover it with a dowel, if you're gonna stick a dowel in anyway you might as well leave the screw in there for strength and stability, although tenons and glue is really all you need.
+colmhain also i like to put dowels straight through the tenons, with the holes in the leg/cross beam slightly offset so it pulls the tenon tight as the dowel is hammered through.
+colmhain and i like to stain the dowels a darker color so it contrasts with the surrounding wood when leveled and finished :)
sorry for all the reply's, lol - ill stop now. peace
or use different types of wood for the dowels and wedges. Then the stain will darken or lighten as per the wood type.
colmhain
my thinking exactly!
Paul, I have noticed how important your hand plane is to you. I am planning on buying a high quality (Lie-Nielson) plane very soon. Obviously I can not afford to buy a whole set. So which is the one plane you consider most important?
You may have mentioned, but I might have missed it, but what is your ratio for your tenons, is it 1 third of the width of the wood makes the tenon and 2 thirds make the shoulders?
I've building my own bench following yours and I have a little sag in the aprons, probably because I tightened the bolts very hard... I also need portability so I can't glue the top to the apron for straighten it up... What do you think of attaching a center rail with a long screw in the middle and nuts and washers on each end?
Hey Paul, Nice video as always, just a quick question with the mallet you use for tapping together has two different heads, a black and a yellow one, any preference to which head to use? thanks :)
Hi Paul, it looks like your bearers are cut from 2x4 but in some of your sketches you list them as being 1.25 inches thick. I had trouble finding wood of 1.25 inches thick so i bought 25mm thick board. Could I just use 2x4 offcuts or should the 25mm thickness stripboard be ok?
Thanks
Is there any difference between bore and drill?
do you think inbetween videos Paul yelled over the fence for the school kids to be quiet?? ;-)
why when i'm wearing headphones does the sound go from both headphones to the left one then back to both
What is the purpose of the bearer? Can anyone tell me please?
is that bench not very high
It fits a man 6'4".
I also like Abraham's punch bag in the back ground
I wonder what the dimensions of the wedges are.
Lol the single power tool I've seen on this channel so far
Your tennon looks thin is it not one third?
That's the painful part of the learning curve. By the time you finish a project you know you could do SUCH a better job if you just did it over.
I'm doing diploma joinery I'm after architecture joinery level 3 paul can u please let me no on of ur hand mortice and tennon plough jig from uk to me please but will u set it up 😢😢😢
Today. :-)
awww all these wonderful hand tools and old school methods just to break out and battery powered drill/screw driver :(
If I recall correctly from another video, Mr. Sellers uses a powered drill for one-handed operation. This allows him to steady the piece with his 'free' hand.
Paul have you got anymore youtube channels?
What did you use for the pads on the clamps?
looks like wood
Excellent, now to finish my laminations and get bizzy cutting housings-with the poor bastards router of course! (never could stand the noise of a power router, never will plug one in again)
Oh, that will be on the woodworkingmasterclasses. c o m online broadcast though.
Hey sound cut off after 3:20
Someone is hungry 18:19 lol
9:07 - 9:50 Whats that horrible noise?
Disgusting. Where's his dust mask and eye protection while using that junk?
you are extremely rude, I expect you have been told that before.
Video yüklenemiyor. Neden?
isn't this bench very high?
No, not for the 6'4" man that uses it.
+Paul Sellers Ah, clear. Thanks!
Paul Sellers, you have a gun? )
+Roman Ger That's an odd question. English people don't have guns unless they are farmers.
English woodworkers aren't called upon to defend themselves with deadly force on a very frequent basis fortunately.
Got no sound!
I could really care less about the decorative effects of a workbench.. I want it to withstand whatever abuse it may encounter far more than whether it's pretty or not. I did auto body work for years and the bench I used was ugly and covered by hundreds of layers of different types of paint over the years. The customers never care if the workbench is pretty as long as their car is pretty.. I suspect that the same holds true for a woodworking bench..
Sorbz62 Thank you for the language lesson that I'll forget before I finish this post.
If one wants to learn about woodworking from a master craftsman, Paul Sellars is that master.
If you don't want to learn, buy from China.
why did this guy make youtube take down the account and video's from the new yankee workshop?
power tools? blasphemy
Your screws are to short!
One turn of a srew will hold the weight of a man. How long do you want them?
The screw at 16:31 doesn't appear to make it through the board *_at all_*.
Oh, and one turn of a screw will rip right out of the wood. It's that old "weakest link" routine.
Use of power tool? BOO BOOOOOOO BOO