Is Upgrading Coils Worth it? LS Coil Conversion Chevrolet Cruze 1.8 eBay Turbo Build | Coil on Plug
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Is Upgrading Coils Worth it? LS Coil Conversion Chevrolet Cruze 1.8 eBay Turbo Build. Coil on Plug and Play.
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For those curious. Thus far I've ran BKR7e's (2 ranges colder than stock) gapped all the way down .016. I'm currently playing with NGK 8's 4554 and going to gap them down until they're closed up lol... I'll report back.
Not apples to apples, but I run BKR9IEX on my boosted k20 and they do extremely well gapped at .020
@@dylanandersen9318 I may give those a try. Currently playing with NGK 8’s 4554. Maybe it just doesn’t like the big electric plugs? 🤷🏻♂️
@Matthew Chevalier not sure. The ecotec is so far from my area of knowledge, I wouldn't know where to begin. That's also half the reason why I enjoy your videos so much
@@dylanandersen9318that's where my 4g63 loved the gap at 20lbs of boost making close to 400hp
Hella tuned related it hits at 5500 each time
I'm a simple man. I see a new video from Matt, I press like.
I can appreciate that. I'd hand you a sammich if I could.
Man, I'm so happy for you to see you uploading on a regular basis again! Keep up the good work and much love from across the pond 🤟🏼
Thanks! I appreciate it. More to come as I get this thing dialed in.
Good to see you rolling with your Cruze again ..... good luck Matt!
Thanks!
Great to see some new content. I always enjoy seeing updates.
Thank you! More to come in the near future. Just sorting out some life stuff behind the scenes.
Loving your videos bro, if I have a bad day, good day, great day watching you always makes it a little better. I have a 2015 Chevy Cruze LTZ here in Texas and only started working on her the day I paid her off, and watching you gives me that little push I need to go for more bigger upgrades on her. But I'm still learning for sure.
That's awesome to hear the videos brighten your day! It's been 3 years and going and I'm still learning and modding. :) But having a blast doing it.
Man those parts are a work of art 🤌🏼
Thank you!
matt im so glad your doin okay man, been watchin you for quite awhile now, makes me happy seein you doin good brother! keep at it excited to see what i can learn for my 1.4L Cruze!!
I appreciate it! Lots of life changes, but slowly getting back to some sort of new normalcy.
@@cmattdabrat good to hear man! Keep at it!👍🏼
Brotha that was badass idea & looked good. Your awesome at things like this, if we lived closer we definitely be hanging out a bit. Keep it up bro. Hi from East Tx
I appreciate it!
Looking good keep up the good work
Thanks 👍
Your welcome
I agree tune related
I think it's some where in your tune that's limiting rpm
Or wot box
Another exciting update! Can't wait to see what she does on the dyno. I think you have the right idea about the spark plugs and/or something in the tune. Hopefully it's not fuel related but it doesn't sound like it to me.
Thank you! Doesn't seem to be spark after more testing. Some sort of fuel cut off / limiter. I don't think the ECU likes the fact it's potentially making 3x the horsepower... so it's saying wooohw! Hold your horses.
I don't remember if you're still running the stock ecu but it may be time to consider aftermarket if so.
What's Your extreme cut off at under engine/fuel/cutoff, DFCO? That dictates fuel cut off at a specific RPM. Also the "in-gear" tab just below that (at least on my 2013 Sonic 1.4 E78 that's where it is). Only if you have heavier valve springs though, otherwise valve float will blow the boost straight out the exhaust and bend valves. Thanks for the videos. Good luck!
Just curious, doesn't Send Cut Send offer hole tapping? Does it add a lot to the price?
They do. I need to go back and make the holes in the file smaller. When I uploaded it, it would only allow for tapping on some of them. Perhaps after moving things around in Illustrator some of them changed in size.
Sounds like spark blow out to me. May have to try 2 step colder plugs maybe 🤔. Also happy to see u back at it!
Thank you! I've tried 2 & 3 ranges colder and gaps from .016 - .020. Going to keep testing to see what it likes. Very well may be torque tables. These computers have too much control over the engine.
Hi Matthew glad to see you. Things going well just need some little work I hope you will fix it for next week video
Thanks! Putting in quite a bit of hours off camera. Hopefully I'll report back that it's resolved.
Never giving up hell yeah! Have u checked the spark plug torque yet? I just did a oil change on my Cruze and replaced my turbo oil feed line and after 4000km all my plugs were just a hair loose I got a little movement on all of them. After buying my car with plug #3 loose in the hole I have been regularly checking them. Another wierd thing I noticed today by accident is cruising down the highway low load the car actually shuts the alternator off and drops the voltage to 12.5 sometimes for fuel mileage 😂 less drag on the pulley if the alternator isent needed sometimes. My car also runs 220-230 just about all the time. It's the eco model with the air flap infront of the intercooler. I was wondering have u opened up all the holes in the bumper grill? My eco has just a small square with most of the grill filled in. Tighten your plug gap my turbo talon was breaking up at .035 so I went to a tighter .020 opening the gap will make it worse for spark blow out. Try a cheap set of champions any platinum or iridium plug is terrible for a boosted engine. U really need to boost leak check your piping and Intake. My talon had a small hole rubbed through the plastic boost gauge hose and it made the computer freak out with the maf being mad there was a tiny bit of metered air escaping. I say tighten the plug gap and get a plug for the turbo Intake so u can put your max boost limit into the system and spray soapy water looking for leaks. Even a few small holes in the welding will make the metered air escaping freak the computer out.
Would love to see you get a cobalt ss!
That would be fun!
i picked up a leather wheel from the junkyard off an ltz, makes the wheel a lot nicer for like $20
Nice! I did the same, well, kept the stock wheel that has no cruise control features. Mine was falling apart. I messed up and over torqued the bolt and broke the steering position sensor, or whatever it's called. Eventually will sort that out haha.
Also, just to note since so many people are recommending colder spark plugs. That really has nothing to do with your spark blowout. You run colder plugs to reduce overall cylinder and specifically plug tip temperature. It basically just draws more heat out of the spark plug. It does not actually affect the strength of the spark, but it reduces the chance of knock and cylinder temps getting too high. Also, if you are running too rich in the high RPM it will cause more blowout. Not only because it could temporarily foul the plugs, but because of Paschen's law.
Thanks! I agree with the heat range. More porcelain to disburse heat. Didn't know about the Paschen's law. Been testing around .78-.80 thus far. Doesn't seem to like anything richer than that. Starting to clear up. Going to try another set of plugs and hopefully does the trick.
Bring your dwell closer to 4ms.
If you downloaded a tune file or plugged in someone else’s work, it’s possible they had made it cut at a certain rpm to prevent engine harm. Kind of like 2 step or launch control.
Good point, but got it all sorted out. :)
Tighten the gap on the spark plug 18 n run 9 series plug that mean colder plug tighter gap so the spark dose not blow out before ignition of the fuel and increase the duration of the spark
Good idea addressing coils with factory ls coils. Only issue is, the coils you chose are known to self fire. Which makes them dangerous and not recommended if you can avoid them.
If you decide to keep for sure, adjust your dwell settings to keep it low like 3.0 Ms.
Thanks for the advice! Can always go back to the bone yard and grab a different set. What model do you recommend?
Pretty much any of the ls coils will support your goals. I ran into the same issue when I started pushing decent power. Mine is a 2.0 ecotec around 450 with a 3076r turning 8000-8200 rpms.
And the cure was always related to coils. I would do a quick compression test. As you might find a cylinder low that could cause it to break up in high boost.
2 step colder plus a smaller gap on the plug
Currently 3 steps colder and gapped to .016. Same issue.
@@cmattdabrat oh wow that’s a pretty small gap too 🤔
Bro....get....the....car.....tuned..... that's whats been holding you up this entire time...i drove to florida from Louisiana to get my stock ECU reflashed and a dynco session for under 500$....so worth it...had a professional tuner that's been doing it almost 20 years dial everything in...make up for the bigger injectors...and wallah. 10.5psi and doubled my horsepower from stock on my lil beautiful toyota engine 1.8l at 250whp 221wtq...if you dont mind making it out there to Florida i can send you my boys way and your build will have no hiccups and never have to worry about your car blowing up again and then.....and then we can get some more pull content from this lil beast of a cruze youve built and put so much hard work into!!! Either way there's nothing wrong with having a professional tune your car have some insurance and never stress about it again...either way love the content and authenticity its hard to find these days hope all is well and just know you are an inspiration to me and my build. I have some videos on IG and one on here i need to add some more here but keep putting it off. Much love bro...dont stop making content...please!! 😂
Thanks, I used a S10 pickup frame. It's basically a V8 conversion S10 with a beetle body.
@@cmattdabrat huh?
hi tell me more about the crankcase gas system of your car, or in which video you describe it.
It's pretty simple. Just goes straight to a catch can that vents to atmosphere using a Motion Raceworks catch can. I swapped the stock throttle body out for an LSJ throttle body which doesn't have the PCV and coolant ports.
@@cmattdabrat Have you changed the inside of the valve cover?
Is oil squeezing through the gaskets? There is no forced crankcase ventilation.
Time for a ft450!! @FuelTechUSA, please sponsor our buddy Matt!
Dude! Was looking at one. I see they're on sale, but might have to step it up to a 550 to keep VVT. 🤷🏻♂️ I might have to message them... 🤔
Sounds like you're hitting a load limiter. Does it always happen at a certain boost level?
You stated the higher the gear the lower the "misfire" occurs.
Got the spark blow out sorted. Needed more dwell time on the coils. But yes! Always right at 22.5 psi. Just chasing that down. Once I figure out where those settings are and lift it, it'll be game on and some dyno time.
Try bypassing your wotbox first, to test if it makes any difference. Would also try doing some more dwell time higher in the rpm. If that still doesnt work. Then its possible that you exhaust back pressure overcomes your exhaust valve spring pressure which results in valve float... ill hop you ll find your problem soon, wanna see it rip!!😁
Thanks! It was doing it even before the WOTbox. I'll bypass it and see if that's affecting it any. I'm thinking there's some sort of limiter and digging through the settings making changes to see if I can't find what it is. As soon as it hits high boost, say 22.5, it'll just hold cut. Even does it in 4th gear. Since in higher gears, the RPM limit keeps going down. 1st it's around 7k, 2nd around 6k, 3rd around 5,500, and 4th 5k. I'm thinking some sort of torque table, or something that's telling it to cut fuel based on whatever the calculation is.
I think you have some kind of boost safety setting causing that. Maybe a 2 step setup causing it. Could be ffs possibly. Was it doing this before you installed the wot box?
This is what I was thinking. Some kind of secondary failsafe limiter
That's what I'm thinking. I'm looking at the logs and did some pulls in first, second and third. As soon as it hits 22.5, on the nose, it flat lines there, and fuel is cut. Fuel pressure goes from 78-80 back to high 50's.
I think so too. Going to dig into the fuel system side of things on HP Tuners and see if that could be the issue and test again.
ur running ethanol so the cylinder will already be cooler then petrol so dont have to go as cold in the spark plug, ur dwell settings looked very low even stock LS are higher and ive gone little higher again, try 4ms around the 6-7000rpm areas and may be right above or go down to 3.5ms to 8k, and blend lower to the 2000rpm areas in the 15v to 12v rows, not sure if it will fix it but worth the test, log all the torque limit/management, spark state pids if its a commanded cut u will see it
You nailed it. That's exactly what I did. I just kept bumping it by 10% until it the misfires went away. Blended it to the other areas as well. Logged to torque tables and raised them as well. Now pulls until it's out of back housing. Next step dyno for fine tuning. Just wanted to get as much as I can sorted out on the road before wasting my time and money chasing issues.
I thought you already dynoed it .. and yes you need to open that gap not close it. If you need a hotter spark.. might even need a set of ngk plugs with a higher spark. You are adding more air gas and boost so the plugs need to be able to burn hotter
Not yet. Just need to sort out the limiter in the tune that's cutting the engine out at 22.5 psi. Once I have that sorted I'll get it on the dyno and see what it likes.
looks like it may be some TCS kicking in, if u look in your log ur getting to 100% TC torque which then cuts the engine, look in your torque management TCS method its at 500 change that to 1000 see if it helps if so then u can lower it again but just keep it above where it kicks in, also your max torque peak torque values are stock u can raise them up just above your engine torque output value but that also affects the PE enable torque value as that is a % of the peak torque value so adjust accordingly, the brake torque limit u could double or triple also see if it helps, and the over boost torque limit also u can raise that see if it helps, your ecu may think ur in alot of boost because your baro reading is so low, just a few tests see if anything helps
I really appreciate the advice and tips. I'm looking into this now and going to keep digging until I get it sorted. Almost there.
How much power do you think you are making right now? I would swap to iridium plugs, one heat range colder for every 100 horsepower over stock, start with like a 0.026 gap. Those coils should have plenty of juice I would think.
I'll give that a try because I keep getting recommendations for the plugs I've used, but have yet to try a set of iridium. Hard to tell hp wise. With it set at waste gate, 14 psi, I'd say in the 300hp range.
@@cmattdabrat Hmmm yeah you really shouldn't need a tiny tiny gap at that level and I'd think a heat range 7 at most would be adequate. Not that I'm an expert and especially on your engine. But I like to look at OEM vehicles for knowledge. What heat range plug does an STI run or the Civic Type R? Cars that make similar HP per cylinder. What gap are they running factory? The displacement per cylinder matters too, but I'm sure you get me. Reference points. As for everyone recommending copper plugs... Yeah for some reason old school knowledge dies very hard in the car scene. There are no advantages to copper plugs in a performance engine other than cost. Every performance car for decades now has come with platinum or typically iridium and the main reason to run copper now is only if you'll be changing them extremely frequently. I know Brent from PFI speed for example switches customer cars to iridium every time he has spark issues because they are using copper. Turbocharged Honda world. I've written big rants on why the new plugs are better before, but people are resistant. The companies know better hehehe. I once made a big post on the DSM Facebook group and like 100 replies nobody could actually tell me why to use copper. There are also interviews with spark plug companies and with drag racer engineers out there explaining the new stuff is better. Anyways ramble ramble not knocking you at all just ranting. Want to see this car gooo! Oh and you could try the new Ruthenium plugs if you want. Not too expensive from RockAuto. I can figure out the part number if it's not listed for your engine already. I have some in my daily and they have been great, though that's far from a stressful scenario.
@@802Garage I completely agree with you and get where you're coming from. I've been told and read copper this, vpower that, plugs with a thick electrodes for boost, yada yada yada. I too like to cross reference other engines running on boost at different levels as a basis to start from. Seeing as this engine in particular doesn't have much to go off of, aside from the head is designed very much like an import (honda / toyota) with a flat tappet bucket design and hemispherical combustion chamber with 4 valves.
What I've learned from it all, is to take it with a grain of salt and to just test, test, test. I just stabbed in some iridium plugs, and voila. Break is gone, aside from maybe 500rpm past 7k which I think will clean up with gapping. AFR's are dead nuts on and even with Bosch plugs that are a step colder, it's pulling like a whole new car on waste gate peaking around 18psi.
Did a few pulls, going to pull the plugs to read the tune. They're a little hotter than I originally wanted, but it's all the auto stores had that weren't $25 a plug 🙄
So I'll be orders a set of 4 NGK iridium to give a shot. Thus far, looks like she's about 90% dialed. Can't wait to see how it does at the track this Friday.
@@cmattdabrat
Good news that progress is being made. Now you just need to move up to 30 psi and see if problem comes right back.
@@cmattdabrat Really glad to hear it made a big difference! All the drag racing "experts" of the internet want to cling to copper plugs like it's the 60s because they worked for grandad, but technology has advanced, let me check my calendar, at least have a century. ;)
Funny you mention thick electrodes as advice, because that's actually the opposite of what you want. Ideally you want a very small center electrode tip and a very small contact point on the strap. That provides the most consistent spark with next to no chance of fouling because nothing can build up on it and it's self cleaning due to the fine metal and strong arc.
If you look at the newest Ruthenium plugs, they use either a double point that looks like two center electrodes, one on the strap too, or they use a small rectangular shaped protrusion on the strap to give a nice exposed landing with sharp edges to arc too. Not exactly sure why the design differences, but the double fine tip is for best emissions and the protruding square tip is for boost applications.
At any rate, will be interested to see if the NGK iridium plugs in the heat range you want are the best yet. Like I said if you need any help with part numbers feel free to hit me up because I have dug through the NGK catalog quite a bit at this point. We all wanna see this thing rip! I was absolutely amazed how just swapping plugs in my turbo Impreza changed it from falling on its face under load past 4K RPM to absolutely ripping to red line. The old plugs probably had 60-100K miles on them hahaha looked factory.
You need to go to a colder heat range on your plugs most likely.
I've tried both 2 and 3 ranges colder
man not the best outcome but still a success and looks killer bro just get u tag on it lol , when i went COP and full sequential injection it made hella diff on idle and i not sure if i can tell anywere else but idle is smooth as a baby ass now lol anyways peace and love my friend keep it rad stay safe and build on brotha ... l8z
Thanks! Definitely cleaned up how it runs. Now to just troubleshoot the blow out. Almost there.
@@cmattdabrat rad and its kinda one of those give situations when u go big ring gap ... just get a good catch and set up and have a draw from the pre turbo intake side so it only gets a draw never pressure and I have had good luck with that sofar on mine and i have a 32 thou ring gap 🤣 but thats cuz im trying to see if it will handle 40 psi on kill mode lol or shit my pants mode whatever cuz 30 is insane tbh 😉 anyways hope that helps and hope to see ya ripping soon much love and respect fam .. l8z
how do you get the coolant temp to show on the display on the dash? :o
Hit the menu button on the turn signal and rotate the selection under car info and until the coolant temp comes up.
@@cmattdabrat dang mine does not have it! D:
Far as I know ignition in gm cars is a switched ground to fire the coils? Could it be possible the stock wiring harness is dropping voltage to the coils due to insufficient gauge power wire to supply voltage. Btw that fancy abrasion resistant electrical tape is basically just hockey stick tape 😂 if hockey tape is cheaper it's the same product🎉
Thanks John! Seems like I'm running into a fuel cut of sort. No matter what gear, and RPM, as soon as it hits 22.5 psi it'll cut the fuel and I can clearly see it in the logs. Fuel pressure rises, and then it'll cut fuel. Some sort of limiter be it based on torque calculations, Rpm vs Accel... not absolutely sure but going to pick through the settings until I find it... or say f it and save for an aftermarket ECU lol.
@@cmattdabrat my tiny boost leak in my boost line was doing the same thing. At 17psi the computer would cut fuel and spark making the motor buck and misfire. Once I pressure tested my intake and found the leak of the metered air escaping the car pulled hard to 20 psi no problem. I was running a stock computer on my talon with a fully built 4g63 as I could afford a modded DSM link computer and nobody makes a easy plug in option using the stock ECU. I'm thinking maybe using a na computer is the problem? Is it possible to swap in a 1.4 computer instead?
Content content!!
Ooooooooft!
LOL! Thanks!
Hey stupid question will the turbo on your cruze work on a 1.4 cruze
I would actually go with something with a little bit smaller of a back housing. Say a GT28 or GT30. It really just depends on what RPM range you want the boost to kick in. With the 1.4, it's not going to move as much air on the exhaust side, so you'll need a small exhaust / hot side to get the turbo to spool in the RPM range you're after. This turbo on my setup doesn't go into full boost until 5k RPM. With something like a gt30 I'd imagine it would kick on 500-1k rpm sooner, but fall on it's face after 7k.
Cool thanks 😊
Someone answer me this after installing this after market intake from ebay my rpm reaches like 4.5k b4 it like chokes and doesn’t pass anymore then that. Wat should i do?
Did the intake include a port for the MAF?
@@cmattdabrat no sir
@@cmattdabrat sorry lol it did i am slow
Take it to a dyno/tuner before any more track-action!
Wish that were in the cards. By the time I save enough money to get on a list, my local track will be closed. Nearest track afterwards will be a 5 hour drive away. The tune is fun AFR, timing, etc... just working on cleaning up the misfire. Will report back and hoping to get it resolved by next Friday, otherwise it might not be until the end of the year before it sees the track again.
@@cmattdabrat How much is it? Cant you try to get a deal with Cleetus McFarland about using his dyno?
@@cmattdabrat How much is it? Cant you make a deal with @Cleetus McFarland about using his dyno?
Bro can't I buy this cool part to malaysia
Have you done a data log to see what exactly is happening when it breaks up? Where is ignition timing, fuel, cam timing(if vvt is on) ect? I agree there is a some form of breakup but the excessive backfiring doesn’t normally happen when you are experiencing spark blow out. If you are having spark blow out and backfiring something is either WAY too hot or your timing is extremely retarded for the RPM and fuel. It would be interesting to see if AFR’s spike in either direction and what your timing situation looks like. Might be worth pulling some fuel or adding some timing to see if it clears up any.
Definitely logging as I'm tuning. AFR's have been within 2-3% of my target. What it turned out to be is the dwell time needed to be increased at higher RPM with the addition of boost. So that cleaned it up. Now I'm chasing the torque limiter. When I hit 22.5 psi, it'll cut. I'll sort that next. Timing I've kept conservative until I get it on the dyno to see what it likes. I've pulled 1º per psi of boost. As soon as I get dyno time, I'll increase it 1-2º at a time until I don't see any changes.
It definitely lean spiked when the spark was blowing out, but that's just consistent with unburned air / fuel going being read by the lambda sensor.
We're getting there a little at a time. With HP Tuners and the stock ECU, there's a lot of factory settings I'm fighting to get the car to do what I'm commanding. If I had to do it all over again, I would just have gone straight to an aftermarket ECU, which is my next step. You almost have to be a computer programmer to dig into all of Chevrolet / Holden ECU settings to override safeties put into the ECU. All though the benefit has been with being green to tuning, it'll pull timing if it senses knock. Although, it does sense a lot of false knock at times. I definitely in my time have heard the ol death rattle from previous builds.
Dont open the gap. Makes it worse.
What are your plugs gapped at?
Increasing the gap only makes the blowout worse.....
16 thou
Check your fuel injectors, could be dirty or even clogged, I fought with different ignition setups on my car till I realized my injectors were dirty and haven’t had any problems since🫡
Anyone building a fuel injection vehicle needs to buy one of those cheap eBay fuel injection tester/cleaners. Mike Finnegan proved new in the box injectors can be trash and never trust parts just because they are new. There pretty cheap and easy to use plus u can make it pay for itself testing/cleaning friends or neighbors fuel injector for a small fee 🎉🎉
@@johnsnow1355 I actually bought one of those tester on ebay and thats how i knew my injectors weren’t working right!
@@tippsy6495 plus now it's gonna make u money if u advertise fuel injection services locally 😁😁
If that was the case he would be super lean in the upper rpms and his wideband would show that.
@@abigbrain1967 not always. Mine would show 11.5-11.0 with 2 or 3 dirty injectors, even just 1 or 2 cylinder lean misfires wont show anything on the gauge because its only changed the air fuel on 1-2 cylinders, like I said I’ve been there I blew 3-4 engines last year because of that issue and I haven’t had any problems since i started cleaning my injectors every few weeks because my gas tank is full of garbage.