What's draining your battery?! How to find a parasitic draw! (EASY)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.พ. 2023
- How to perform an "Amp Draw Test" with a multimeter in order to find a parasitic draw that drains your vehicle's battery.
All Glory to God ! - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
If its a modern vehicle keep the meter connected and wait until the computers sleep. Connecting the battery, opening the door handle, many things put it in wake mode. Some cars even prime the fuel pumps or run glow plugs.
Also, disconnect the alternator at the fuse on the power box, its way easier and safer.
Also cooling fans on the electronics too, Mine also has steering, ABS, AC and Suspension pumps.
I have seen several vehicles take a half an hour or more for the computer to time out. One thing I started doing is run a jumper wire between the battery and the terminal in case my meter times out and it goes to sleep.
You usually have to wait at least 20 minutes, especially on a car that is suspected of having a power draw.
@wearetheresistanceprepping1883 If your meter times out/goes to sleep, you can just turn it off and back on the amps setting without "waking the system"
@TimmyMill87 not so easy on the fluke 77. It must be turned off then back on and it will reset the system. It's just too easy to disconnect the cable then install a heavy enough jumper wire. That way you don't even need to leave the meter connected, just lay you leads on it from time to time. I've seen some f150s take a hour to time out.
I've used an infrared camera to find a draw. Fuses, wires, motors, amps, and control units will show warmer temps overnight when drawing electrical circuits.
heat gun
Good idea..
Omg. I love you smart people. Thank you. That's brilliant
Bruh why haven't I thought of this
I did the same thing on a BMW that wouldn't fully go to sleep. The problem as a communication module not sleeping.
Thanks I have a brother that has been trying to teach me this my entire life. I'm 43 and now I know it because of the way you explained it. I truly appreciate that.
This is great information that will save people money, now that diagnostic time is sooo expensive at the shop. Here's another tip "for the rest of us..."
If you don't have a multimeter for an amp draw test but, you still want to take a crack at figuring out what's wrong with your car, use a simple, inexpensive test light that is found at most any store (Walmart, dollar store, grocery store, any store with an automotive dept) for just a few dollars for the cheapest ones. *Be sure it has a ground clip and a probe point,* not just the little, pocket screw driver type. Those may or may not work but, the "regular" type are very useful for many things like this.
Hook in a standard test light just the same way as the multimeter. The ground connector end clips to the disconnected, battery ground cable and then touch the sharp, probe point to the negative post (push it in a little to make good contact & make sure the key is off).
If you're drawing amps, the test light will glow, though it may be very dimly. Remove fuses or items like the alternator, starter or anything that is connected to the system (all the lights, radios, etc. should be on a fused circuit so make sure you find ALL of the fuses, especially if something has been added in by someone). Remove things from the circuit one at a time and when you find the culprit, the test light will go out. You won't be able to tell how many amps are being drawn as you can with a meter but, that's ok, it's the stopping of the amps flowing that your looking for. Just take your time, find a way to identify where you've already been (mark a fuse box, separate fused wires, alternator, etc. with a piece tape or marker that will show your work) so that you don't lose your place and have to start over and get frustrated and confused. It's easy, just have patience and be methodical.
You don't have to be a certified mechanic or "smart" or "rich" enough to own and use an automotive test meter as is shown here... Simple, household tools will work! 😊
Thanks for helping me friend, I sincerely appreciate it.
The alternator can giveth voltage, and taketh voltage.
i like it
its all magic, when u see smoke rhe magic is leaving
Excuse my ignorance, but how can an alternator draw voltage if the power to it is off? I might have the same problem on my f-150.
@@christorres2Could be shorted internally. They can't cover enough diag in a 60 second clip.
Alternators have ‘diode’ packs within them. Without going into a worm hole how everything works inside the diodes allow current to move one way, from the alternator to the battery.. if one of these fails when the car is off and the alternator isn’t charging the alternator will take ‘power’ from the battery.. draining it quickly in some cases. Newer alternators are complicated beasts but you can test them using a DVM.
She said he's 21 centaury hero . And I'm grateful because she believes you're her soul mate. And now hopefully she will leave me alone. Thanks.
Absolutely wonderful job at showing how simple this is! I am about to get my ASE A6. every shop I have worked at despises electrical work. In this competitive market, I will be one step ahead.
Learn scopes and you will be ahead than most technicians.
I also despise it. Not because it's unduly difficult. Customers just don't like paying for the troubleshooting.
That's because you don't make money doing electrical diagnostic they pay an hour for a 5 hour diag. Most tech know how to do it but on flag pay it's not worth it
@@scottcowen4071 if you're Bernie you charge 200 bucks, it may take 10 minutes but you gotta account for travel to the site time as well.
I just had this happen on a 73 Torino I was working on, & it had a chrome aftermarket alternator on it. I put a two hundred amp relay inline of the alternator wire to the battery, and it would engage with the key. this essentially just disconnected my battery from the alternator when I shut the car off. Works freaking great.
Hi there! did you put the relay on the b+ charge line going to the battery?
Hello Sir, can you help me to do this in my car I would like to know how you did the installation. Thanks in advance.
A new alternator might be cheaper than a proper 200A relay...
Anything thinking about this get a new alternator unless you have a 73
When you’re doing this it’s advised to keep the circuit closed by using the leads, while removing the battery cable. It’s to keep the modules active so you don’t miss one that turns off and end up chasing ghosts
Yes! Especially on newer vehicles
there is intelligent life watching video's after all...
also close the doors with the battery cable on so the dome light cycles off completely.
@@rupe53or leave them open and use a screwdriver to "lock" any doors you may have to otherwise open to check interior fuses..
First thing I use an amp clamp on either battery cable to protect my meter, then if the draw is low enough the ten amp or milliamp scale. Just as important is to clip the negative lead to the negative cable, then loosen the clamp bolt but do not remove the cable from the battery post until you place the positive probe on to the battery post, then disconnect the cable. This maintains the radio presets and does not wake up the various computers.
An aside on radio presets: whenever I replaced a radio or have to disconnect the battery for any reason I always write down the presets, CD channels, and any other pertinent data that would be lost and leave the sheet in the car. It makes for good customer relations and reflects well on you and the dealership.
Great points! I recently started using an OBD memory saver cable and a small auxiliary battery to maintain pre-sets, etc. Works great!
Awesome! Thank you for a super short and to the point video!
If you notice, the meter Reads negative 3 amps. that's because the black probe is supposed to be on the battery terminal. Which is ultimate ground and the red probe goes on the cable. Battery Terminal is Ultimate Ground. Black Meter Lead is Meter Ultimate Groumd. On this Test, the Meter should Never Read Negative (Volts or Amps), fir Proper Diagnostics!!
Good eye! That is correct, I had the leads backwards in this video. With that said, the test works just the same and you would know that it is in fact a "positive draw" if that's what you were looking for in the first place. Thanks for your comment !!
You are Correct, I wasn't Being Critical. My Students get it Confused. With the New Electronics in the Industry today. Negative Voltage is Used In some Control Systems. You Video was Very Informative for A Technician I was Working With. I Appreciate Your Reply!
I came here to say this but yeah like he said any number higher than .50 you know something is wrong. This is exactly what was wrong with my Honda Civic. I think it's doing it again. Idk what's wrong with this car.
Your right I get this confused all the time
@@HumbleHotshotlove the disingenuous back paddling on the INCORRECT amp lead hook up! good job! 🤦♂️ It WILL blow the 20A fuse on a lot of multimeters!
How would you do that if you have too batteries
Clamp meter better if you don’t want to zap your digital multimeter - just think when you connect the negative lead to the battery & the spark you get - that could be a current draw of more than 10 Amps in my humble opinion.
Think I’d prob use the voltage method on the fuses - there’s a relationship between the millivolts measured & the current drawn - can’t remember where I saw it but it’s out there on tinternet….
All multimeters have fuses to protect the current measuring circuits, if too much current goes through it, all it does is blow an internal fuse. On the amps setting, its often a 5-10 amp fuse, on the milliamp setting its a few hundred milliamp fuse, depends on your meter.
Measuring for voltage drop across a car fuse is nonsense, fuses dont have signficant resistance. If there is a voltage drop it means there is siginificant resistance across the fuse.
@@jumboegg5845 I mentioned I didn’t have a clamp meter at the time - but you go right ahead if you think a fuse is going to protect your multimeter in this scenario.
If it’s a $10 multimeter then what the heck eh - not forgetting the aggravation of changing the fuse - some are non standard so you’d have to order one unless ya bodge it to get a job done.
You’re then hoping it actually went short circuit before zapping the multimeter - not nice seeing circuit board traces burnt to a cinder due to time for fuse to blow or LCD display gone due to voltage spike.
Using more expensive multimeters most take precautions when using on ‘any’ equipment before sticking probes in/on.
The voltage through fuses does work - it worked for me - & obviously works for others when watching those mechanic/creators on TH-cam that demonstrated it.
It’s slightly more techy - with the different graphs for different fuse ratings - but one can get carried away as it’s not too difficult to find where the current draw is & what value one should expect. I’m ok with it. It’s not rocket science.
I think this creator did a TH-cam on the voltage method 🤔 but may I suggest
“Which parasitic draw test method is best” by FordTechMakuluko - he covers the bases - & precautions too.
There are also isolating battery clamp terminals made with a switch to help protect the on/off scenario of probing with multimeters. They go some way to protect the multimeter - but I’ll make my decisions if/when faced with this scenario again.
All the best! Happy diagnosing!
@@messageobliquespe100 Its just how fuses work, a fuse very effectively protects the circuit from over current. If your cheap 10 amp rated multimeter can't actually handle 10 amps (because its poorly designed and overated), then always best to use a lower rated fuse (say 5 amps), to make sure it never works close to its maximum stated rating. The fuses in multimeters are special high energy ones, designed to protect you (not the multimeterr) against high voltage spikes of 1000 volts or more. This can only happen in general use if you are working on mains power, or if the car you are working on is struck by lightning lol.
A fuse is a resistor, and because of its resistance, a 10 amp fuse for example will start to get hot and will show a significant voltage drop across it when it starts to get close to the 10 amps, slightly above 10 amps and it will get too hot and melt. That's how they work. So I suppose the voltage drop across a fuse might be useful sometimes, but the voltage drop would be very small, if like for example in the video the parastitic current draw was only 3 amps. 3 amps across a 20 amp fuse would show a tiny drop in voltage.
I just went into my shed and put 12 volts 3 amps across a 10 amp car fuse, and measured a voltage drop of about 0.08V (80 mV) across the fuse. Thats very small, but I suppose it could be useful as a very quick check, but only if all other fuses show no voltage drop, and only if there is no legitimate reason for something to be drawing 80 millamps across that fuse.
@@jumboegg5845 Thank you for your comments - all taken on board. Fuses can be effective in protecting the circuit from over current - but you’re at the mercy of the engineer that designed the circuit & specified fuse rating /quality adopted by the manufacturer. (I’ve been down this rabbit hole before - a 5 amp mini blade fuse in an expensive bit of kit that wouldn’t see much more than 1.7 amps at a push/fault when speaking to the service engineer. I imported & used 1 amp fuses - equipment been fine for years.
I apply this rule to expensive electrical equipment - even domestic equipment - & down rate the fuse ratings where I feel fit / the need. Simple to take current draw readings from standby to switch on & select on that basis.
I’m a bit precious of my Fluke multimeters they cost enough to warrant being careful with.
With regards to your analogy of fuse breakdown - ie ‘slightly above 10amps & it will get hot and melt’ - fuses are more robust - can operate well above their rating for a number of hours.
Blade fuses will carry on working for 100hrs at 110% of rating - 10mins at 135% - 5 secs at 200%. If there’s additional headroom given to the fuse adopted in the unit you can see how things can go south. I’ve not looked at the fluke fuse & its characteristics. I should put on the list but take for granted they knew what they’re doing so I’ve not bothered.
“the voltage drop across a fuse might be useful sometimes” - glad you’re coming on board! The voltage drop is very small - we’re talking measurements in millivolts.
In the Charts/tables you can read off the millivolt measurement for the fuse rating & see how much current is being drawn through the fuse/circuit. Search for blade fuse voltage drop on tinternet - Wordpress.com should come up
This voltage reading is a measure for the current through the fuse. You can look up the current value in the table.
From charts - for info:-
10A blade fuse:
Resistance = 8.12milliohm.
Voltage drop 116 millivolt -(I think this is maximum value of approx 1.4x fuse rating).
For a 3A draw - through the above fuse - you should see a voltage of 25mV.
(4A 33mV. 5A 41mV. 10A 82mV)
To measure the voltage drop across the fuse, set voltage scale to mV - place the positive lead on one side of the fuse and the negative lead on other side.
It takes seconds to do. When you see any value on the multimeter you will know there’s current going through as most circuits will be off or very little current being drawn - so anything greater than say a millivolts or two will stand out - & be a circuit to investigate. it’s a quick method - BUT note what the FordTechMakuluko on TH-cam covers. Hope you watched it 🤔
Approx values - for 1 millivolt:- for fuses:-
3A = 30mA 5A= 50mA 7.5= 90mA 10=120mA etc - Usual current draw in vehicles range from say 40-80mA when ‘shut down’ so over this can result in draining the car battery - which is what we’re trying to diagnose.
Let me know of your further shed tests.
Happy diagnosing!
E&OE (I’m not in my shed)
@@messageobliquespe100 Thanks for all that useful info, you put a bit of time into it. I know the maths and theory so probably wont need to look up the tables, but I am sure they will be very helpful to others reading this.
Thanks for picking up on the milliamp "typo", yeah of course it was a voltage drop of 80 mV, not sure when that happened, must have been when editing to improve my expression. I've edited the mistake so its not there now.
My experiment was quick and crude, just happened that the first load resistor I found was 2.2R 5W, was getting quite hot in my hands, quickly measured roughly 0.078V across the 10A fuse while holding it all together in my fingers, didn't bother measuring on the millivolt scale, was just after a ball park figure.
Just realised my mistake, I initially limited the current output of the power supply to 3 amps, and forgot to unlimit it when taking the measurement. Just checked now and current draw at 12 volts is about 4.9A according to my cheap bench power supply, yeah I know that value is a bit low, when I want an accurate measurement I use a multimeter.
In the video, the fault was showing 3 amp draw, which would stand out like a sore thumb. I have found 12 volt relays with corroded contacts passing something like 150 mA when they should be completely open (off). When standby current at the battery should be roughly say 50 mA, an extra 150 mA at the batttery due to such a fault takes many days to drain a good battery, not overnight. Using your values above for a 10A fuse, the voltage drop across the fuse due to a 150 mA fault would be a tiny 1 mV, and even less for 20A fuse.
After you connect the meter, wait ten to fifteen minutes for everything to shut down. If you open a door, trunk, window or turn on the key, you have to start over. Some on board computers stay active a long time. Then check for a current draw. If it's more than 200 miliamps you have a parasitic drain. The first thing I would check is the alternator. A failed regulator can keep the rotor energizer.
memory on the radio / clock will also be a draw.
@@rupe53 also the PCM memory. That's where the 200 miliamps comes from.
@@gener.1253 ... yeah, I get it. I'm one of those old guys who did this stuff for like 50+ years. Glad I retired when I did.
@@rupe53 right there with you. Started in my dad's shop. ASE Master tech for over 40 years. I retired in 2017 but did my best to keep up with the technology until then.
@@gener.1253 ... going from memory, but recalling I started ASE cetrs back around 1978 or so. (NIASE?) I kept taking the tests till I ran out of time at the test centers. I did auto, machine shop, service writer, truck, (heavy and light) bus, school bus, carb, and EFI, body / paint, etc. People at that level numbered under 500 nationwide at the time. i was also certified as master tech by Nissan. I finally let them lapse around 2010 when they offered an extension (6 months extra) but failed to let me know when the next test date was. I said "screw it" when my employer didn't want to pay for it. Retired 4 weeks before Covid shut down the world.
Thank thank you simple and sweet and to the point
Great video , great information . I will defiantly be able to use this ,thanks
Lisle makes a cool set of leads made specifically for this, with a switch and fuse
Normal parasitic curren will be less than 30 milliamps in most cars. 20 milliamps is even better but not as common.
Cool thanks, I need to remember this
Easy explanation and simple short and not excessive explanation as a tech my self 👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍
Nothing harder to fix then an intermittent electrical problem!
Fact !
Egrebal76
I beg to differ, ever tried to fix stupid?
Keep battery connected. Go across each fuse with mA . Compare with Powet Probe chart on each fuse..
Its quicker
Bullshit. This stupid multimeter doesn't work no matter what setting
Now that is beneficial and that works thank you so much and he showed us the right side of the probe to be using. Thank you very valuable.
Good video brother, going to save this to my DIY playlist now.
Thank you it's very helpful to me
Thank you
Excellent, thank you!
Alternator is usually the culprit I've seen it over and over.
I just repaired a SLK230 Mercedes with that problem. The battery would be dead after sitting a couple of days. But the alternator was intermittent. I never did isolate the power draw, but I noticed sometimes the battery went dead while running the car. I replaced the alternator when I noticed the output of the old one was low..and after that, no more draw either.
Central locking motor on VW and Audi often fails, will bleed the battery s well.
@@georgerivera9220my car is dying out got the alternator changed he uses a old one got a new battery still dies out after a few mins how do I check for a failed engine? The engine sounds perfect?
So how do you over come that
@@melvinpervis6678that’s the answer I’m looking for as well
Thanks for the great helpful video!!!
Surely the curves in our terrestrial nature are caused by the rotation of the earth.
The comment he makes about the earth moving out of the goldilocks zone is interesting too, does that mean that mars was once in the goldilocks zone and as such, could have had life on it while earth also had life on it? Does this mean that as Mars left the zone its inabitants could have jumped ship to survive and began inhabiting Earth?
Nice way to troubleshoot.I do the same thing from the fuse block a little different, It is all good 😊
Thank you that helped me figure out my problem!...
Swap the probes if you dont like seeing a negative current value.
No sir it should never get to zero your computer never sleeps
This is the old method.
The newer method is to use the voltage drop against the fuses as the computers can stay awake for 15minutes, its even worse with keyless entry systems.
So you have to have the key well away from the car
Excellent explanation thank you!
How do you stop an amp draw at the alternator?
I recently replaced my water pump and had to remove the alternator and after I put the alternator back in, my battery is at about 12.39V in the morning.
Checked the scope and v to starter goes down to 7.5v for the first half second while cranking so engine struggles a bit to start.
Nicely executed, Bubba.
😮Excellent work thank you 😊
I had a truck years ago that the battery started dying overnight. Before I replaced the battery< I did a draw test. the truck was pulling juice. So, when pulling fuses, I found a penny in the cigarette lighter. I used the ashtray for change. The fun part was getting it out. it had kind of welded itself to the connection.
😂😂😂
Any children around that could have done that? I had a nephew many years ago when he was around five, that put coins into my trucks CD player. I ultimately got them out.
Good stuff in this video. I'd just add make sure all doors are locked with door switches taped down and latches closed if doors are open for fuse access. Otherwise, you could blow the fuse in your meter rated for probably 10amps because of loads active when you unlock the car. If you're trying to find the circuit causing the parasitic draw, start pulling fuses that could be under your dash. Of course depending on the car year make model if this applies to you.
It is better to use a DC clamp. But, this works unless you have a short.
A DC clamp may not read such a small current draw.
The suspect drain is most likely either a bad diode in the alternator or a trunk light switch. Or if you have a light under the hood.
@Dave M it will, unless you get an absolute pos DC clamp or it is very high range luke 1000 amps. A trunk light is likely over an amp. If it is less than 10 amps, then go ahead and switch to shunting the load to measure it. If you have a short you will blow the fuse in your meter this way.
You can set DVOM to mV and check each fuse for voltage drop. Fuses that have current going through them will show a small voltage drop.
DVM or DMM Digital Multi Meter.
@@dogwalker666Digital Voltage Ohm Meter
@@wolfjay1343 That’s not a thing,
No they wont, you dont understand electricity. A fuse should have no voltage drop, a voltage drop would mean there is significant resistance across the fuse.
@@jumboegg5845 Exactly, No more than the standard volt drop for wire which over such a tiny distance is not measurable especially not with a cheap consumer multimeter used by someone who doesn't know what they are called.
Pulling fuses on newer cars resets modules that can potentially be the culprit. Might make it for a longer diagnosis. I found it easier to do a voltage drop check at the fuses
ty so much for this video!! now i can get somewhere on this car cus i just put a new alternator on and it wont crank or has any power but the battery is fully charged🎉
So on one hand, it could appear that one's alternator is fine (i.e. charging the battery when car is on).....but could still be faulty by parasitically drawing power while car
is off?
That is 100% correct. This alternator charged perfectly at 14.2 volts with the engine running, but drained the battery overnight due to a shorted diode within the alternator.
This can happen if a jump box is hooked up backwards.
@@WildFaith How interesting...thank you! My alternator 5 years old...but car only has 23k miles on it. Aren't they supposed to last waaaay longer than that?
It just depends. With electrical components, they can fail at any time with no real warning signs@@Son_of_Aragorn
Reverse the multimeter cables to get the sign right ;)
When you know what you're doing it doesn't matter. Man is smarter than the display on a multimeter.
It doesn’t matter you’ll have the same number just with a negative sign in front of it
Thanks for the good video and info!
I just had my alternator replaced on my Mercedes 2014 sprinter 6cyl turbo diesel. $1200!
Try repairing it next time. A whole alternator rebuild is 100-200$ and it charges like a new one. 14.9-15V at idle.
Great basic troubleshooting.
Use alligator clips and leave them hooked up. Once you hook up meter wait till all your modules go to sleep
You have to wait up to 7 minutes on some vehicles for modules to go to sleep before testing or you’ll be replacing a lot of modules for absolutely no reason….. it’s gonna have a 2-5 amp draw until the entire vehicles modules go to sleep.
Nice, thank you!
You gotta invest in new leads with the alligator clips. It’ll change your life
Then the draw is greater than 10A, & your DMM explodes...
My 04 Chevy truck battery goes dead after like 4 days. I hooked my volt meter up like you and pulled the fuses/relays 1 at a time. It showed 12 volt drain after pulling all the fuses. What do I do now?
If this doesn't work on your multimeter you might have a blown fuse (in the multimeter)
And if you hit the starter while attempting to measure current, you will be lucky to blow the fuse in the multimeter. Bad luck will be to blow the ammeter from the ~300 amps that the starter can draw at inrush.
Dam everyone has a different way dam I'm looking for good advice my brain has an over load from reading everyone different ways ughhh my car dies out new battery alternator was used when replaced shady mechanic didn't tell me it was used charge me 500 now it's dying out after a new battery any advice 2011 Chevy Malibu 3.6 helpppppp
Mine was a door switch that would randomly turn on interior lights at night while I was sleeping of course. Took six months to finally have it happen when I was in the car
How u fix that?
@@JesusTorres-cv2fvprob changed door switch
We used to be able to do this test with a lamp, but today's vehicles have so many "normal" petty draws that it doesn't work.
I'd add that you also might disconnect the alternator's control plug to see if the draw drops. That would verify that it's indeed a draw from "within" and not possibly an external control signal, possibly energizing the field, or whatever.
9 times out of 10 it will be a bum diode in the alternator so that's high on the list.
Good point! I did disconnect the control plug and it did not have affect on the draw.
damn! I thought I was the only person who found a parasitic draw from an alternator. mid 2000's jaguar
It happens ! I had another one on a Toyota camry a few weeks ago. The alternator had a bad diode after someone hooked up a jump pack backwards.
Great video !!!
Wouldn't hurt to use a pipe clamp to hold the lead on the post. Otherwise great job finding the problem.
just keep some spare 10A fuses for the multi meter
Exactly. That's what I do its unlikely that the vehicle battery is drawing more than that as that would drain it pretty quick.
I've been working on cars forever and never really thought that alternator can drain.... Thought it just wasn't charging.... Learn something new everyday
Yep, it's not super common, but this does happen! A shorted diode in the alternator will drain the battery quickly since the two are tied directly together. This can happen if someone hooks up jumper cable or jump box backwards.
Replace alternator or put in a battery isolation switch. .. better off change the alternator, I you can replace alternator diode pack. The diodes changed 14volt AC to DC.
Thank you!
Very informative 👏 👌
Great video 😊
Does this also work on fuses that are in circuit with relays ?
The alternator has continuity. The fuse has to be replaced even if its not blown?
We pulled the alternator 3 pin connector and it turns out the wire is drawing power snd stays hot even after hours of the engine not running. What would I do in this case? Its a 2003 Chevy Tahoe
U need the car to go to sleep first to get accurate amp reading
I'm glad they cool I that Mr Barkley I use to have his bady picture s
I have a 2021 Subaru Outback and did an amp draw test. After an hour of pulling fuses and testing, I narrowed it down fuse “UNIT +B2”, which was pulling 2.3+ amps! Any suggestions before I take it in to be diagnosed?
Find out what exactly that fuse is for and see if there are any obvious issues within that circuit. Good luck!
3Amp draw could be the car waking-up; the 2015 JK JEEP will draw 3A for several minutes, then it will idle-down (sleep) to about 0.020 Amps. So be aware of that - many many newer cars will draw current initially when you first connect the battery - for a few minutes, then the car goes back to sleep mode.
SMA and PHD show how to do this very well
Keep in mind that the fuse it's only 10 amps and the peak could be higher. I modified mine just a little (if you do do it at your own risk) and mine can reach up to 20 amps I also have an amp clamp also give it time for the computers go to sleep.
I did have a parasitic drain. I bought 2, $12 switches on my batteries on my Saturn & F150. No more parasitic drains I can't "fix". I found the drain and fixed both vehicles, but still have switches on I turn of and on. It's a good fix if it's otherwise a mystery.
Did you connect the 2 disconnects to the pos and neg terminals or do you have two batteries and install them on both negative terminals? I need to do this temporarily until I can find the source of my parasitic drain. Thank you
@@georgew84 no I didn't have a parasitic drain
@@davidweum oh sorry. In your comment you said that you did lol
No no no!
You connect it the way he says but with crocodile clips.
Then with the key it of and away from the vehicle let the modules on the vehicle power down. Sometimes it will take 20 minutes.
Then go looking for your draw.
What it means if my multimeter just marks a 1 in left side?
Unfortunately “most” multimeters only have a 5 or 10am fuse in them, and most modern cars will draw more than that at battery reconnect, my work truck 22 f250 cycles fuel pump when battery reconnects and evap system, total draw is around 18amps, while momentary still exceeds the meters fuse…….so, buy a stand alone old school needle gauge amp meter like you used to see in Chevy/ford/dodge dashes and use that, they normal can read upwards of 60amps, use it until you can get everything under 5amps then use a modern meter to look for low current draws
I’ve done this test a thousand times and so has multiple mechanics who always tell me the battery is bad after performing this type of test that shows 0.0! I’ve been through 3 batteries and the exact same thing happens. Only one mechanic came up with another possibility that he didn’t think was the case but something about load at start. Any idea what kind of bad extra load at starting could cause a quick drain? I have zero after market parts and I’m driving a 1993 z28 Camaro. Any guesses would be appreciated
Doing the hard way man. Thats what clamp on amp meter is for
Do anything draw current as well as make current if it's broken
That it drops to zero it leaves me still suspicious there is typically always a small draw
Likely pulled the main charge fuse
Fuses are a great way to find shorts. You want to do it at night time, you remove one fuse at the time, when you put it back if it arches, this is the short. But their is no fuse for the alternator, but most alternators have a nickel size round metal in the back, when it's running you should have a magnetic pull from testing it with a screw driver, if their is no magnetic pull? It means the alternator is not charging.
i thought bro was talking about the AMP group before he said “amp”💀
Cool. Great video
If the drawn is 10 Amps orote the fuse will blow in your meter or hope it does I always replaced mine with a 5
My amp draw is 1amp for about 60 seconds and then drops down to a healthy level like .05. Is this normal?
You are right.
You can also use thermal detector to see which fuse is putting off heat
Is reading 12 volts normal when doing this?
In cold start my car starts but if I park it after 10 minutes then start it a few hours later my car lags like the battery is dead
Keep in mind the clock, alarm and security system alone will draw amps
What if I'm seeing an open lead when doing this?
How would the alternator draw current?
I have 97 mustang with a parasited draw ( #4 fuse under the dash, AIR BAG SYSTEM)do anyone know a fix for this?
But why would the alternator draw power at all? If anyone knows please let me know I’m trying to find ways to fix an issue I’m having with my truck
If there is a short circuit within the alternator, usually a shorted diode from hooking up jumper cables backwards, etc. the alternator will draw power. Remember that the battery and alternator are directly connected with a large wire so power can flow both ways if there is a problem in the circuit. Hope this helps ! God bless
Thanks for the help I unhooked the alternator wire and it allowed my truck to start right up so I’m going to replace the alternator thanks again! God Bless!