Been doing string alignments for years and even do them on 8x8....although they are a little more forgiving. One thing you could do to make your front adjustment easier and not have to roll the vehicle back and forth is grab four cheap peel and stick floor tiles (the 12 x 12s). Grease the face of each tile, place the greased surfaces together so you have a slip surface that you can place under your front tires to roll over. That way you your adjustments will be more precise with less influence from other mechanical anchor-point resistance and you won't have to roll the vehicle back and forth all the time.
If anything, i'm trying to reach zero toe/ out, but I do favor the toe in if any. The bigger picture is to get the alignment as close as possible, then you can get the car to a shop and have it set to closer tolerances. The added bonus to these cars is that all you have to worry about is the toe in/out and not camber or caster because they are preset.
I didn't mess with the rear wheel adjustments because you have castor, camber and toe in/out, but on the rear you also have the slip angle and that I needed to have set on a machine.
Oh sure, numerous times. That is pretty a straightforward process, with the biggest detail being torque them down while the car is at ride height. This process works for that too. It's still a good idea to get to a shop and have the alignment checked, just so you don't have premature wear on various things. This procedure [if you will] is more of a quick fix to get you down the road for a time. Although I have had good luck with it, I still must say user beware. 👍
@@CentTxLiving if I have a 2 inch lift. Is it OK to torque down at lift height or do I have to lower down before I torque then down? And I was able to replace my bushings thanks for the help.
Sorry, I got busy for a bit. The truck needs to be a normal ride height to complete tightening the frame side down. Having a 2 inch lift means it's easier to get under there. Lol
Also use the same method, it works well. I also use axle stands. I also ensure the steering wheel remains central. A very good demonstration. Thanks.
Thank you sir.
Been doing string alignments for years and even do them on 8x8....although they are a little more forgiving.
One thing you could do to make your front adjustment easier and not have to roll the vehicle back and forth is grab four cheap peel and stick floor tiles (the 12 x 12s). Grease the face of each tile, place the greased surfaces together so you have a slip surface that you can place under your front tires to roll over. That way you your adjustments will be more precise with less influence from other mechanical anchor-point resistance and you won't have to roll the vehicle back and forth all the time.
Just curious where you’re at in NoMi. I have a l322 and few classics up here in Traverse!
Holy Crepe! That is crazy good!
Thanks dude.
This is a great and logical method, but what tow in/out do you set the wheel at ?
If anything, i'm trying to reach zero toe/ out, but I do favor the toe in if any. The bigger picture is to get the alignment as close as possible, then you can get the car to a shop and have it set to closer tolerances.
The added bonus to these cars is that all you have to worry about is the toe in/out and not camber or caster because they are preset.
Would same procedure work on a 05 LR3?
Its perfect enough
Thanks bud.
How to adjust the rear wheels ?
I didn't mess with the rear wheel adjustments because you have castor, camber and toe in/out, but on the rear you also have the slip angle and that I needed to have set on a machine.
Have you had to replace front control arms yet? Or front ball joints ?
Oh sure, numerous times. That is pretty a straightforward process, with the biggest detail being torque them down while the car is at ride height. This process works for that too. It's still a good idea to get to a shop and have the alignment checked, just so you don't have premature wear on various things. This procedure [if you will] is more of a quick fix to get you down the road for a time. Although I have had good luck with it, I still must say user beware. 👍
@@CentTxLiving if I have a 2 inch lift. Is it OK to torque down at lift height or do I have to lower down before I torque then down? And I was able to replace my bushings thanks for the help.
Sorry, I got busy for a bit. The truck needs to be a normal ride height to complete tightening the frame side down. Having a 2 inch lift means it's easier to get under there. Lol
Looks A- OK to me👍
Ikr, whatever works. 😁