Just did this on my 87 Foxbody. Someone already had installed the LMR hinge pins and bushings previously. The bottom bushing was broken on the lower hinge. I replaced both upper and lower hinge bushings and installed the LMR pins. I got the clip in the top pin but could not get it in the lower pin (previous repair didn't have the clip in it either). I then went to install the replacement (aftermarket) striker I also purchased from LMR. No matter how I adjusted, I could not get it to close as well as the factory one. So I put the factory striker/latch back in and door closes fine. It's a little worn on the plastic roller but still good for now. In the future I'll probably by the OEM one that LMR also sells. This aftermarket replacement is slightly larger on the metal v-shaped bracket which is why it doesn't close as well as the factory one (it's slightly smaller). FYI.
On my 79, the pins, I believe, were original and were kept in place using E clips on the bottom. I managed to knock them up through the top without cutting them or removing the fender, but the heads on the top pins definitely hit the inside edge of the fender. I'm prepping this for paint and doing a lot of bodywork, so it wasn't a big deal. Otherwise, plan on cutting the pins. I'm surprised this video doesn't address placement of the keeper pins at the top of the upper hinge pins. As someone else mentioned, the fender would need removed (or tweaked) to give enough clearance to install the upper pin from the top.
What should I order if I only have one hole in the hinge bracket that needs an oversize bushing? Does LMR sell just the oversize bushing? That way I can substitute an oversize one where needed. Also, are the door hinge brackets welded to the body, or are they bolted on? I'd like to also replace the lower hinge tension spring at the same time. Thanks!
The door side of the hinge is welded. The body side is secured with (3) bolts. The hinge pins and bushings are only sold in kits. Links below. -Landan Regular bushing kit: lmr.com/item/LRS-23204-KIT/83-93-Mustang-Master-Door-Hinge-Pin-Bushing-Kit Severely worn bushing kit: lmr.com/item/LRS-BP7R-KIT/mustang-master-door-hinge-pin-bushings-kit-severe-79-93 Lower door hinge tension spring: lmr.com/item/LRS-23504A/83-93-Mustang-Lower-Door-Hinge-Tension-Spring
As a long-time Fox tinkerer, and survivor of countless "Stupid Dearborn Tricks," my only advice is to bring every ounce of patience you have. This job is a PITA...every single step of the way. You'll cuss a lot less with the Dremel discs that don't shatter too easily. It can be done solo, but like they say on the video, a buddy would be of great help. Nothing just "pops out." Good luck.
This video is 2 and a half minutes long but don't be mistaken the install will take all day if you have stock hinges. This stuff is hard in the summer heat!
I did this this weekend. I didn’t really feel to comfortable trying to hammer in the new bushings on freshly painted doors. So I used a bolt with two washers and a nut about an inch long and just tightened them up and they went right in. Then you only had to tap in the last bit because the bushing would bottom out on the hinge. I was also thinking if you got a longer bolt and drive it all the way from the other end you wouldn’t need to hammer at all.
It's a possibility that it could be both. Start with the pin and if you still that they are not lining up, then make the proper adjustments to align everything.
The passenger door on my 88 GT doesn’t sag, but instead has to be pushed down in order to be closed properly. Could replacing the pins and bushings fix this?
Jonathan - To me that sounds like the striker is out of alignment. Verify that your door striker is positioned correctly. Also, ensure that the plastic bushing on the striker is not deteriorated. -Landan
This fix worked perfectly for me on the Wife's 1991 2.3 LX convertible when the passenger door would no longer close and had the noticeable wobble. Did the dremel cutting tool method and destroyed lot of disks to cut thru - it's a tight area - then some penetrating oil and elbow grease to get the old pins out. The new bushings are soft brass so be careful with those, easy to damage as I did to one, eventually just pressed in with vice grips, carefully tapping in. But after all the work the door magically worked perfectly again! I did it solo with a lift to hold the door up.
Whats the O.D on the oversized bushings, and is there any option for the oblong hinges like a bushing large enough to allow re drilling them? Only working option I 've found to correct them is welding to fill it and then redill undersize and using a reamer to get them both inline and in spec for the ford bushings.
Cutting out the original 35 year old pins and getting them out is a bear of a job! Good luck to anyone else trying this especially by themselves. This job suck! No way around it just make sure you have a at least a 12 pack or a strong 6 pack for this one!!
I'm confused by your description of the oversized bushings. If the door was let go so long, wouldn't it wear the inner (body mounted) hinge and make it oblong? So you would need a larger hinge pin diameter to take up that slack. Your video implies that the pin is the same size and that the bushing is oversized on its outer diameter. That would mean that the pin wore completely through the old bushing and started wearing through the hole in the door-mounted hinge. In this case the factory bushing would be completely gone. I think what the oversized kit actually does is use an oversized pin to take up slack in the oblong body-mounted hinge, and then a bushing with a larger internal diameter is needed only to accommodate the larger pin, not to take up any slack on the door-mounted hinge. Right?
Just did this on my 87 Foxbody. Someone already had installed the LMR hinge pins and bushings previously. The bottom bushing was broken on the lower hinge. I replaced both upper and lower hinge bushings and installed the LMR pins. I got the clip in the top pin but could not get it in the lower pin (previous repair didn't have the clip in it either). I then went to install the replacement (aftermarket) striker I also purchased from LMR. No matter how I adjusted, I could not get it to close as well as the factory one. So I put the factory striker/latch back in and door closes fine. It's a little worn on the plastic roller but still good for now. In the future I'll probably by the OEM one that LMR also sells. This aftermarket replacement is slightly larger on the metal v-shaped bracket which is why it doesn't close as well as the factory one (it's slightly smaller). FYI.
Thanks for the detailed comment. -Landan
On my 79, the pins, I believe, were original and were kept in place using E clips on the bottom. I managed to knock them up through the top without cutting them or removing the fender, but the heads on the top pins definitely hit the inside edge of the fender. I'm prepping this for paint and doing a lot of bodywork, so it wasn't a big deal. Otherwise, plan on cutting the pins. I'm surprised this video doesn't address placement of the keeper pins at the top of the upper hinge pins. As someone else mentioned, the fender would need removed (or tweaked) to give enough clearance to install the upper pin from the top.
What should I order if I only have one hole in the hinge bracket that needs an oversize bushing? Does LMR sell just the oversize bushing? That way I can substitute an oversize one where needed.
Also, are the door hinge brackets welded to the body, or are they bolted on? I'd like to also replace the lower hinge tension spring at the same time. Thanks!
The door side of the hinge is welded. The body side is secured with (3) bolts. The hinge pins and bushings are only sold in kits. Links below. -Landan
Regular bushing kit: lmr.com/item/LRS-23204-KIT/83-93-Mustang-Master-Door-Hinge-Pin-Bushing-Kit
Severely worn bushing kit: lmr.com/item/LRS-BP7R-KIT/mustang-master-door-hinge-pin-bushings-kit-severe-79-93
Lower door hinge tension spring: lmr.com/item/LRS-23504A/83-93-Mustang-Lower-Door-Hinge-Tension-Spring
As a long-time Fox tinkerer, and survivor of countless "Stupid Dearborn Tricks," my only advice is to bring every ounce of patience you have. This job is a PITA...every single step of the way. You'll cuss a lot less with the Dremel discs that don't shatter too easily. It can be done solo, but like they say on the video, a buddy would be of great help. Nothing just "pops out." Good luck.
I drilled mine out. Anything works as long as you are patient.
This video is 2 and a half minutes long but don't be mistaken the install will take all day if you have stock hinges. This stuff is hard in the summer heat!
Did mine in about 2 hours 1 hour each side both were factory have done before though
@@PowderedPlates the main thing that makes the job take forever is cutting the old pins out
Can install the locking clip on the bottom?
I did this this weekend. I didn’t really feel to comfortable trying to hammer in the new bushings on freshly painted doors. So I used a bolt with two washers and a nut about an inch long and just tightened them up and they went right in. Then you only had to tap in the last bit because the bushing would bottom out on the hinge. I was also thinking if you got a longer bolt and drive it all the way from the other end you wouldn’t need to hammer at all.
Great vid
What kind of Dremel cutting wheel do you use for cutting the door pins?
A cut-off wheel intended for metal was used on the Dremel tool.
If you can notice the car panels aren’t lining up when the door is closed, is that a hinge problem or most likely a pin?
It's a possibility that it could be both. Start with the pin and if you still that they are not lining up, then make the proper adjustments to align everything.
Great video thank you.
You're very welcome!
Done son sold me hahaha thanks man !
The passenger door on my 88 GT doesn’t sag, but instead has to be pushed down in order to be closed properly. Could replacing the pins and bushings fix this?
Jonathan - To me that sounds like the striker is out of alignment. Verify that your door striker is positioned correctly. Also, ensure that the plastic bushing on the striker is not deteriorated. -Landan
This fix worked perfectly for me on the Wife's 1991 2.3 LX convertible when the passenger door would no longer close and had the noticeable wobble. Did the dremel cutting tool method and destroyed lot of disks to cut thru - it's a tight area - then some penetrating oil and elbow grease to get the old pins out. The new bushings are soft brass so be careful with those, easy to damage as I did to one, eventually just pressed in with vice grips, carefully tapping in. But after all the work the door magically worked perfectly again! I did it solo with a lift to hold the door up.
I still have a little slack on my drivers side after doing this. Will the oversized bushing fix this?
It is a definite possibility that the over-sized bushing kit could fix your problem. -Landan
can the door be unplugged and out of the way and change the hinge spring now
Cutting original pins suck
How do you know if the hinge has been damaged because of the bad door pins and bushings? And can the actual hinge be replaced?
I just did this to my fox last weekend. Thanks latemodelresto for the complete kit!
Do you have to have the retaining pin on top or can you do it reverse and flip the pin where its hidden?
Whats the O.D on the oversized bushings, and is there any option for the oblong hinges like a bushing large enough to allow re drilling them? Only working option I 've found to correct them is welding to fill it and then redill undersize and using a reamer to get them both inline and in spec for the ford bushings.
I would just like to add this took a long time with hammering a dremel and of course 2 people.
"You are done son!"
Did one side no problem but the driver side has play after the install. Dont know what to do
ok buddy, how do i a fix alignment issues with the door, Both of my doors stick out at the bottom were the rocker and rear quarter panel is.
I remember when i did this to my 92 coupe 10 years ago,now i have to do this to my 94 gt soon enough. Taking the pins out was a PITA
Cutting out the original 35 year old pins and getting them out is a bear of a job! Good luck to anyone else trying this especially by themselves. This job suck! No way around it just make sure you have a at least a 12 pack or a strong 6 pack for this one!!
can you guys do a video on the proper way to align the striker?
Done Son!
Nyeguitarist
The striker will loosen and has some degree of play. Just loosen the bolt and adjust to where the door latches straight and tight.
you have to have the pin on top unless you want to pull the fender otherwise the curvature of the door prevents it from going in.
You guys are doing great work. Could I request some videos on steering rack and tie rod replacement? Also, suspension component replacement. Thanks
And don't forget to check you "Flatch" and striker adjustment.. lol
thanks, great videos
Looks like that rear wheel needs a lug
its a security lug
.....and your done son
Not that damn easy
Hahahaha "And your done soon" that was funny.
Removing the stock hinge was no joke. I used a rotary file. It did some collateral damage but should clean up. Regardless, it was not very fun.
I'm confused by your description of the oversized bushings. If the door was let go so long, wouldn't it wear the inner (body mounted) hinge and make it oblong? So you would need a larger hinge pin diameter to take up that slack. Your video implies that the pin is the same size and that the bushing is oversized on its outer diameter. That would mean that the pin wore completely through the old bushing and started wearing through the hole in the door-mounted hinge. In this case the factory bushing would be completely gone. I think what the oversized kit actually does is use an oversized pin to take up slack in the oblong body-mounted hinge, and then a bushing with a larger internal diameter is needed only to accommodate the larger pin, not to take up any slack on the door-mounted hinge. Right?
that's what I ended up doing