Dave, I am an automotive trainer and Tech line representative with many years of automotive diagnostics. I own 2 Audis that burned as much oil as your Toyota, and have rectified both by progressive engine flushes and applying a top down soaking of Berrymans chem tool. Viewing your tailpipe while accelerating, I can say without question your oil rings are hung and/or the drain holes in the pistons are clogged. Compression is mostly the top ring aided by the second ring. Oil control is the bottom ring set. Drain the oil and save it for later. Leave the drain plug out with a clean drain pan under car. Remove the plugs, manually turn the engine (clockwise only) till all pistons are as far down in each bore as possible. Fill the cylinders with Berrymans chem tool. Periodically rock the crankshaft in both directions to move the rings back and forth and refill the cylinders. Given your mileage, this may need to be done initially for say 2 days. Sample the drained fluids in the pan with your finger. You should be getting gritty drainage which is the carbon from the ring grooves. Reinstall the old oil and run the car till warm, then install some motor flush and run 20 min at idle. Do a full oil change and again monitor oil usage This may need to be done multiple times.
Audi requires full synthetic oil because those engines work with high pressure and temperatures, and is normal for a turbocharger engine to burn some oil because the turbocharger also take air from the inside of the engine, that's why is a good idea to put oil cath tank, but is very diferent, the design of the 1ZZ Corolla engine, Toyota made mistakes too, 1ZZ pistons have a bad design in the draining holes or less holes there are videos on how to correct the problem.
Thanks I have a 2009 Pontiac vibe GT with the Toyota 2.4 L. Iâve been able to lower the oil burning to about oneFord every 400 miles approx. are use liquid, Molly, flush and then Lucas. After a couple days of the oil burning began to slow down. However, doing things such as what you were suggesting aggressively treating the cylinders is probably what Iâm going to do next
I am general manager of a machine shop that specializes in Japanese engines. We have done dozens of these. If you end up removing the engine, I am offering to install new rings and bearings for the cost of parts only. To ship a single pallet to me should only be a couple hundred dollars... If the engine needs machined, we are more than capable of putting new pistons in after a bore and hone. The head work should be done to match, but that can be done locally of course.
Looks like very dark liquid drops coming from that tailpipe while driving. Heavy @23:19 & @23:23 and maybe @23:54 The incline and later when floored seemed to produce the most smoke. Of course thatâs obvious but actually seeing something thatâs not just condensation is noteworthy. Maybe itâs time to buy a $500 1ZZ-FE engine from one of the local salvage yards listed on car-part and do all the things to ensure the oil consumption issue is eliminated such as new rings, check the valve guides (lap the valves while youâre there) and install a new head gasket. Youâll have lots of great video footage and the Corolla would still be operational while youâre getting another powerplant ready for transplant. Heck you could do an autopsy on the old engine after itâs out and maybe repeat the re-ring procedure on that as well. Lots of possible video material.
Great video again, love to watch them and saw them all. I am afraid just liked I commented on the previous video that this is simply an oil burner. The previous video with the spark plugs suggests it is the rings and not the valves. Looks to me still pretty much like rings. Hope B12 can save you or else swap the engine.
Great to see you teaching your children to drive a stick. I have taught four of mine and many others to drive a stick. I still have two little ones to train in 5 years or so.
I have been watching these videos all day long Dave. I have a 2008 Camry with the 420 code and I think I am going to do the Berryman's piston soak on the car. I am now vested in this Corolla of yours and LOVE the fact that it is a manual! I don't know if you are aware of the Lacquer Thinner "hack" to clear the 420 code (and clean the CAT) as instructed by Scotty Kilmer. Looks like I will be doing BOTH the Berryman and the Lacquer Thinner at the same time.
Thx for mentioning and considering my B12 method. It will take maybe 2 or 3 treatments in order to fully free up those stuck oil control rings but I guaranteed youâll see immediate improvement after 1 treatment (cut down my oil burning in 3/4 after 1st treatment and cut down completely no oil burning after 2 treatments) If u took out the o2 sensors, itâs a good time to replace them with new one consider itâs age after all these miles or if u r like me, Iâll clean it with carb cleaner b4 I put them back in. Also if u r planning to ditch the cat or gut the inside honeycomb out, u can put an o2 sensor extender on the downstream side (after cat) to trick the ecu that u still have a cat so no P0420 code and check engine come on. Looking forward to your b12 soak and redline driving video soon. Best regards
Thanks for submitting it! ... It was the most liked comment on the video ... so I guess I've got to go through with it ðĻ ... Hope it doesn't blow the engine ð
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY youâll just have to keep it at high rpm, doesnât have to be at the redline bouncing back and forth but keep it in 3rd gear going around 60 mph so it wonât shift into 4th gear and so on. Remember do this immediately after u extract all b12 out of the cylinders and restarted the car, drive for 20 mins or so then go back home and change fresh oil with new oil filter. Also donât forget to unplug the EFI fuse from the fuse box when u crank the motor to remove the b12 in the cylinders. That way the injectors wonât inject fuel into the combustion chamber and it wonât be smelling like gasoline all over. just remember to plug it back in when u r ready to start the car. Just give a few gas pedal press when cranking it will eventually start back up. The problem now days why thereâs carbon buildup on the piston was the way peopleâs driving style. 95% of the people do not rev pass 5000rpm, they drive normally and shift around 3000rpm, they donât realize engine needs to work a bit harder sometimes to stay healthy and avoid carbon buildup on the piston because gasoline is a very good cleaner, it just need higher rpm to burn off those vapors and deposits in the combustion. Thatâs why people who take the their cars to track events always have healthy engines
Blackysan, should I put the sparkplugs in while doing the crank rotations, or leave them out? The Seafoam site says it helps get the chemical into the rings on the compression strokes. Did you have them in or out? Thanks.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I left them out the whole time. Make sure u turn the crank slowly for 5 rotations, that way it will help getting the b12 on to the ring land and holes more thoroughly. Do this every 6 hrs or so and make sure rotate it one more time, 5 full rotations, after 24 hrs of soak before u start extracting the b12 out of the cylinders. Slow rotations will get fluids on to the ring land and held them there instead of pushing them pass thru the piston down into the oil pan with fast rotations like cranking the motor
Exhaust cam footage was interesting, fun and entertaining. I watch the whole "Oil consumption Experiments' video list as an interesting serial and I find it very helpful and entertaining.
Dave, I just wanted to say YES I am very interested in seeing the results of your O.B.Experiments!!! I am In La., but I have a daughter in Nashville with the same problems as you have very clearly identified, in her KIA Sorento. So we are very interested in seeing the finished product of these test, (really excited about the B-12 treatments)!!! Please keep going & T.Y. so much for all of your do diligence, we are hanging on every one of your vid's, your pal!!!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY keep going dont give up i was thinking u should change the oil to liqui molly and put liqui molly oil saver and see what happens and if u wanna clean the cat just use cataclean in the gas tank
Your daughter did well in the short clip we saw of her driving the manual vehicle. All I saw was black smoke which indicates it is running rich, and that was when you were flooring the accelerator pedal.. There was a bit of moisture coming out at the start, but that is normal. As an exhaust system cools down it draws in moisture out of the air. Actually anything that cools down from high temperatures draws moisture in.
Have a 2004 Honda Accord 2.4 L 4 cylinder with 385,000 miles on it. Been using 1 quart of oil every 800-1000 miles for last 100,000 miles. Recently suddenly increased to 1 quart about every 350-400 miles. About 1 month ago I used 505CRO & 505CRF. Helped some but not much much as it now consumes 1 quart approx. every 600 miles. Compression on all cylinders are between 184 to 190. Couple of weeks ago I tried BG EPR also but it is still at 1 quart every 600 miles. Just thought that I would share my situation for whatever itâs worth. Enjoyed watching your videos and hopping you come across a solution that might help to some degree. Also, I would be willing to try a few more treatments of the 505 CRO but you canât only order that by itself. You must order the 505CRO & 505CRF which comes to around $75 with shipping.
Great video series. I'm intrigued by each new update. I have a 2001 Celica with 257,000 miles, an oil burner, and I continue to add oil when it needs it. Scottie Kilmer says that's ok to do, and I trust his experience and knowledge. Keep up the good work!
looked to me like oil sprayed out the tailpipe. No? Still hoping to see ATS chemical 505 cleaner. Those cars are troopers. always ready for the next vid. Peace.
You could be right, but I think it was condensation mixed with soot, as the engine was still warming up. I hear you on the ATS ... seems I'm getting a lot of comments on that now. ... Scotty --DOH!!
Excellent video! Thanks for planing more corolla videos im so happy every time i see an upload! As for the smoke does seem about appropriate for oil consumption. Im closely watching have a diesel with oil consumption thats 1.5l/ 1000km so bit less than yours and it smokes even on idle if you look closely. You can smell oil. If you shine light from behind smoke at hight its clearly visible in the air Looking forward to see a leakdown test think you are doing it in proper order
when you accelerate hard there is quite a bit of black/grey smoke, maybe a little bit of oil getting past the rings and not burning off in the cat. I would check your spark plugs, maybe they were a little bit fouled was causing misfires, new plugs or clean them would be my first thing to do.
just before this video i saw the video from 4 months ago changing the valve seals you got the knowledge to work at thats far continuo to change the rings you can
Previous video in this series: Blue Driver Scan tool results - Shooterlube comparison: th-cam.com/video/MRgDwcvWNyo/w-d-xo.html Next video in this series: Leak Down Test: th-cam.com/video/BSLjcBQboPg/w-d-xo.html Entire oil burning experiment playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj.html
Excellent work & video! wow this is just priceless and will help a lot when i get to my Corolla's Cat. I can't wait for the video when you are smiling after eventually reviving the engine and correct what F$%^ Toyota's engineers got wrong. I love the simplicity of this car. You are the man! Thank you!
These Toyota engines are rubbish. They suffer from oil burning due to the type of piston rings they have...oil ring failures at 200 000 kms isn't uncommon. Nothing fixes it but a refresh. Use synthetic oil always and correct grade with frequent changes
Should have put the camera up the bottom of the manifold. When i go on internet to order a cat for this engine, it actually shows a manifold. So if the manifold has the main cat (as suggested by the part shops), you missed it when you had bits and parts disconnected. Would have been worth checking. I have the same engine, buring at least 1L a week oil, AND i have the 420 codeð I kinda waiting for you to fix my problem ð ðð
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do the BG Engine Cleaner + Rinse + MOA. My 2016 Hyundai Sonata burns 1 quart every 500 miles without smoking & I'm convinced it's sticking oil control rings. What a stupid design to use "low tension" rings. What good is the money saved from higher MPG if I have to spend it adding oil? Just joined Class Action Lawsuit against Hyundai for "excessive oil consumption". Many thanks!
Pull the head and pan. Clean everything and change piston rings, new head gasket, maybe new crank bearings, valve adjustment and iridium spark plugs. Good to go! Maybe a quick cylinder hone if you know what your doing.
You have found the oil. Another test is to put your hand over the oil fill tube while it is running. There should be no pressure on your hand (ring blow by). I bought a car with 227K miles with no ring blow by to teach sister in law to drive. 6K miles later and it uses a quart in 3K miles.
I have to correct you on the voltage of the second O2 sensor. As long as it's stable(ish) (+- 10%) and always over 0.5V, you're good. The closer it is to 1V, the better your efficient is.
Well snap, that's what I get for skipping around. Left a nice pile of check values towards the end of your playlist but I see you've hit the OBD here. Ah well, I'll leave it as there were a few bits at the end that may help someone one day. Add: Yoooo, that exhaust cam: ðð Most times when people talk about blow-by coming out of the pipe, it's still relatively gaseous. Your Corolla is more on the Exxon Valdez side of the scale. Still sounds and shifts like a top though! In my opinion, with all adolescent kids, it should be mandatory to drive manual transmissions until the age of independent monetary exemption. With all their tentacles engaged in driving, they've no free suckers to be playing on phones and in-car gadgets. Guess that could apply to a lot of adults, too!
Seen people run pure diesel instead of oil in heavily sludged and oil burning engines as last resort, for 15-30 minutes. 50/50 chance of success, either way the engine even before that is clearly headed for full bottom end overhaul. Nice videos showing people that these additives /cleaner are not the solution in severe cases of oil burning ( more than a liter every 5000km as example).
If the downstream sensor goes low voltage while accelerating, is also a sign that the CAT. is clogged or partially clogged or if the fuel trims are negative
Hi Your oil consumption issue is most likely due to worn valve guides. We used to put new umbrella valve seals on the valve stems so the oil doesn't just run down the worn valve guide into the cylinder.
All of those bore scope shots into the bore clearly show what the problem is. All the oil on the cylinder walls in the amount present should not be there in those amounts. All of the oil on top of the pistons comes from that. The only way that happens is if the oil control rings do not have enough tension, enough drain holes, or gummed up. The fact that you have good compression tells us the other rings, bores and valve stems, guides adn seals are all working perfectly as they should. In the above video you can clearly see smoke out the exhaust on hard acceleration and up shifts. You can also see oil dripping from the muffler tip and small droplets spraying out of it as well.
Blow by is happening at high revs. What you didn't do is simply drive at high revs sustained. You tended to hit high revs momentarily uder wide open throttle. What we needed to see is how much combustion blow by is happening at say 3000 rpm sustained, or perhaps 5000rpm sustained. In any event, almost certainly your oil consumption problem will be fixed by putting in new rings. Be warned however... perhaps the cylinder liners need to rebored slightly oversized, which might require slightly oversized pistons. Maybe.
Evap DTC's will NEVER cause a misfire @ highway speeds that's where purge is designed to occur, under engine load. A purge valve stuck open will only be noticeable at idle. Catalyst DTC's P0420, P0430 are never the Ox sensors, the ECU algorithm uses the front & rear Ox sensors to SET the catalyst DTC, so they both HAVE to be working correctly. the rear Ox sensor is not used for fuel trim, only catalyst monitoring. The Cat doesn't have to be plugged, just both the sensor signals are about the same, that's what sets the P0420 DTC. PS: when you try and remove any exhaust bolts ? tighten it slightly first before you try and loosen it. ( old timers trick )
Very well done! I've just purchased a Duel camera Bore scope and I'm dying to see what I can see throughout my 2007 Lexus IS350 with 174K miles on it. Ive been thinking of looking Into my gasoline tank, my throttle body, my plug holes and now at my cat. I purchased it with 100k in March of 2018. I've been getting P0173 & P0174 codes on my Bluedriver scan tool telling me it's running lean. I plan on pulling my plugs and doing a compression test this Thanksgiving weekend 2022. I exsperiance the occasional back fire not miss fire.
Wow that's a ton of smoke coming out the back! Doesn't mean it's beyond saving, but definitely a lot of smoke. At this point, however, I think it needs new rings. The low tension rings just weren't a very good design in my opinion. Love your videos though
Agreed. Blue smoke under acceleration, as averse to deceleration, plus new valve seals recently fitted - absolutely points to very tired rings and bores. Personally I would have done a compression test much MUCH earlier in the process. As a rule of thumb, good compression + blue smoke (especially on start and/or deceleration) usually means valve seals. Poor compression + blue smoke (especially during hard acceleration) usually means rings and bores.
Hi again!! As i told you in another thread i replaced my clogged cat, made a big difference how it behaves, i realice that the new one might not have a long life due to the oil burning!! Anyway what i wanted to tell you is that my old cat was worth a lot of money!! so if you decide to change it ,(P0420 right??) the old one contains a lot of valuable metals so it might pay for a new aftermarket cheaper cat!! Have a nice day!!
if a catalytic converter is thought to be clogged, FIRST DIAGNOSE THE CAUSE before fixing the converter. otherwise, the new converter will also be clogged. clogging can be the result of leaking piston rings, valve stem seal, pcv malfunction...
That's hilarious bro, when all you had to do to get that converter moved back was to slide the muffler off of the hangar bracket... then you could have slid the exhaust rearward enough.
LMAO! The exhaust cam DOES show enough smoke for the amount of oil being burned... 1 quart every 300 miles or so, right? You most certainly need new rings. A full ring and bearing job would go a long way to restoring the engine.
Totally not worth it. Say it was $5k for that work, and $5/quart of oil. Thatâs 1000 quarts so 300,000 miles to use that much oil. Just buy economical oil and perhaps a heavier weight.
It's always a good idea to break your sensor's loose while everything is hot then go have a beer and by the time you are finished it should be cooled down enough
To much smoke, the problem is obviously piston rings clogged and cilinder wall schath, no chemicals solutions, solve it by take the head out make a diagnosis if you want to keep the audiense it will be great to watch the tear down, love your videos.
1ZZ pistons draining holes have a bad design and is easy to clogged up, need to make more holes to drain properly the oil back to the oil pan, if you want to solve permanently the problem must take those pistons out. You can see it in other channels. May be BG Dnamic engine cleaner can help because is very agresive cleaner, but in the end the problem will come back
This might not work for you but I actually used suggestion from one comment by pushing rpm to redline for a short period of time on highway and my misfire disappeared with the catalyst below threshold code. So weird
Whats clogg the catcon is phosphorous ash. That's why oil co had to remove half of antiwear additive from the oil, the ZDDP. Happens way more on oil consumers.
I had to replace the catalytic converter in my 03 Corolla CE My oldest daughter learned to drive in my Corolla. Ended up buying an 06 Corolla S for her.
I haven't finished this video yet, so it might happen later, but have you actually checked each cylinders compression to make sure one cylinder just isn't worn? Pretty straight forward process, start the car, disconnect the fuel pump fuel while running, let it die, give it some time to cool than pull spark plugs one at a time. First try it dry, than about a tablespoon full of oil in each cylinder. The oil will help seal the cylinder, it will raise pressure, test each cylinder and make sure they are all giving similar pressure. If the motor/a cylinder is worn it would explain the oil use as its getting past the oil control ring due to a loose tolerance. It would also explain why nothing up until now has helped. Not saying its the cause, but it would explain a lot.
that smoke looks like gas... its dark... doesnt look blue like oil smoke... it had a lil blue to it but not insane... specially when it was cold ... I've seem valve steem seals do that.
Actually that is a lot of smoke out the tail pipe since this car has a CAT. Once the CAT gets up to temperature you will get more soot rather than blue smoke. You may have already tried this but put a new TOYOTA PCV. Its worth a couple extra bucks to get the correct one.
Cats clog up do to heavy oil burning will take a cat out .that is the number one cause for it.You need a complete set of rings.That engine had a recall from Toyota years ago to address this promblem.
A 20w50 may shut the oil drinking mouth of this car in 1 mile! Where Dave lives is warm enough to do that 20w50, no problem. 5w30 is for Canada, Greenland, North Europe, not Florida.
That is sound old logic, but, When Toyota went to thinner oil rings, they created a problem with sludge clogging up the oil rings so now they use the same piston and rings but recommended thinner oil five and zero weight to help push the sludge out of the rings, and that solved the oil burning problems in Toyota recently. Plenty of utube vids on this
Not actually wanting to fix the car but keep it broken just to make endless meandering videos is not cool. No one learns anything from this, in fact, they are led astray by all this nonsense.
Who are you to say this is uncool? I learned a lot, even if it was not what I was hoping for. I'm going to pull the motor, and fix it. It took alot of effort to determine which one of these chemicals really worked. did you know that for certain?
Dave, I am an automotive trainer and Tech line representative with many years of automotive diagnostics. I own 2 Audis that burned as much oil as your Toyota, and have rectified both by progressive engine flushes and applying a top down soaking of Berrymans chem tool. Viewing your tailpipe while accelerating, I can say without question your oil rings are hung and/or the drain holes in the pistons are clogged. Compression is mostly the top ring aided by the second ring. Oil control is the bottom ring set. Drain the oil and save it for later. Leave the drain plug out with a clean drain pan under car. Remove the plugs, manually turn the engine (clockwise only) till all pistons are as far down in each bore as possible. Fill the cylinders with Berrymans chem tool. Periodically rock the crankshaft in both directions to move the rings back and forth and refill the cylinders. Given your mileage, this may need to be done initially for say 2 days. Sample the drained fluids in the pan with your finger. You should be getting gritty drainage which is the carbon from the ring grooves. Reinstall the old oil and run the car till warm, then install some motor flush and run 20 min at idle. Do a full oil change and again monitor oil usage This may need to be done multiple times.
Thanks for the suggestion, James. A B12 soak is actually going to be the next video.
Audi requires full synthetic oil because those engines work with high pressure and temperatures, and is normal for a turbocharger engine to burn some oil because the turbocharger also take air from the inside of the engine, that's why is a good idea to put oil cath tank, but is very diferent, the design of the 1ZZ Corolla engine, Toyota made mistakes too, 1ZZ pistons have a bad design in the draining holes or less holes there are videos on how to correct the problem.
Thanks I have a 2009 Pontiac vibe GT with the Toyota 2.4 L. Iâve been able to lower the oil burning to about oneFord every 400 miles approx. are use liquid, Molly, flush and then Lucas. After a couple days of the oil burning began to slow down. However, doing things such as what you were suggesting aggressively treating the cylinders is probably what Iâm going to do next
I am general manager of a machine shop that specializes in Japanese engines. We have done dozens of these. If you end up removing the engine, I am offering to install new rings and bearings for the cost of parts only. To ship a single pallet to me should only be a couple hundred dollars... If the engine needs machined, we are more than capable of putting new pistons in after a bore and hone. The head work should be done to match, but that can be done locally of course.
Your services are in high demand. May i ask the name of your shop in case i ever want to have my Toyota 1.6/1.8 liter motors worked on?
@klwthe3rd Call Metric Motors in Centerville, Utah!
@@Sunleyantiques Thank you!
@@Sunleyantiques You're right down the road from Dave's auto center. Centerville must have the most complete engine rebuilders in the country!
Looks like very dark liquid drops coming from that tailpipe while driving. Heavy @23:19 & @23:23 and maybe @23:54 The incline and later when floored seemed to produce the most smoke. Of course thatâs obvious but actually seeing something thatâs not just condensation is noteworthy.
Maybe itâs time to buy a $500 1ZZ-FE engine from one of the local salvage yards listed on car-part and do all the things to ensure the oil consumption issue is eliminated such as new rings, check the valve guides (lap the valves while youâre there) and install a new head gasket. Youâll have lots of great video footage and the Corolla would still be operational while youâre getting another powerplant ready for transplant.
Heck you could do an autopsy on the old engine after itâs out and maybe repeat the re-ring procedure on that as well. Lots of possible video material.
Entertaining! Iâve been waiting for this one for a while. Looking forward to the next oneâĶ
Thanks!
So glad to see a young person learn to drive on a manual ð
My daughter is only 12 but she will be learning on a manual also when the time comes.
Great video again, love to watch them and saw them all. I am afraid just liked I commented on the previous video that this is simply an oil burner. The previous video with the spark plugs suggests it is the rings and not the valves. Looks to me still pretty much like rings. Hope B12 can save you or else swap the engine.
At 23:19 we can see that catalytic converter doesn't burn an oil. Oil goes just through it with exhaust gasses pressure.
Great to see you teaching your children to drive a stick. I have taught four of mine and many others to drive a stick. I still have two little ones to train in 5 years or so.
Sounds like you're a busy man, James!
I have been watching these videos all day long Dave. I have a 2008 Camry with the 420 code and I think I am going to do the Berryman's piston soak on the car. I am now vested in this Corolla of yours and LOVE the fact that it is a manual! I don't know if you are aware of the Lacquer Thinner "hack" to clear the 420 code (and clean the CAT) as instructed by Scotty Kilmer. Looks like I will be doing BOTH the Berryman and the Lacquer Thinner at the same time.
Did it clear the code?
Thx for mentioning and considering my B12 method. It will take maybe 2 or 3 treatments in order to fully free up those stuck oil control rings but I guaranteed youâll see immediate improvement after 1 treatment (cut down my oil burning in 3/4 after 1st treatment and cut down completely no oil burning after 2 treatments)
If u took out the o2 sensors, itâs a good time to replace them with new one consider itâs age after all these miles or if u r like me, Iâll clean it with carb cleaner b4 I put them back in. Also if u r planning to ditch the cat or gut the inside honeycomb out, u can put an o2 sensor extender on the downstream side (after cat) to trick the ecu that u still have a cat so no P0420 code and check engine come on.
Looking forward to your b12 soak and redline driving video soon. Best regards
Thanks for submitting it! ... It was the most liked comment on the video ... so I guess I've got to go through with it ðĻ ... Hope it doesn't blow the engine ð
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY youâll just have to keep it at high rpm, doesnât have to be at the redline bouncing back and forth but keep it in 3rd gear going around 60 mph so it wonât shift into 4th gear and so on. Remember do this immediately after u extract all b12 out of the cylinders and restarted the car, drive for 20 mins or so then go back home and change fresh oil with new oil filter.
Also donât forget to unplug the EFI fuse from the fuse box when u crank the motor to remove the b12 in the cylinders. That way the injectors wonât inject fuel into the combustion chamber and it wonât be smelling like gasoline all over. just remember to plug it back in when u r ready to start the car. Just give a few gas pedal press when cranking it will eventually start back up.
The problem now days why thereâs carbon buildup on the piston was the way peopleâs driving style. 95% of the people do not rev pass 5000rpm, they drive normally and shift around 3000rpm, they donât realize engine needs to work a bit harder sometimes to stay healthy and avoid carbon buildup on the piston because gasoline is a very good cleaner, it just need higher rpm to burn off those vapors and deposits in the combustion. Thatâs why people who take the their cars to track events always have healthy engines
@@blackysan Sounds good. Thanks for elaborating. ððŧ
Blackysan, should I put the sparkplugs in while doing the crank rotations, or leave them out? The Seafoam site says it helps get the chemical into the rings on the compression strokes. Did you have them in or out? Thanks.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I left them out the whole time. Make sure u turn the crank slowly for 5 rotations, that way it will help getting the b12 on to the ring land and holes more thoroughly. Do this every 6 hrs or so and make sure rotate it one more time, 5 full rotations, after 24 hrs of soak before u start extracting the b12 out of the cylinders. Slow rotations will get fluids on to the ring land and held them there instead of pushing them pass thru the piston down into the oil pan with fast rotations like cranking the motor
Dave, your video is a pleasant to watch. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the kind comment!
Thanks!
Thank YOU Alex!
Exhaust cam footage was interesting, fun and entertaining. I watch the whole "Oil consumption Experiments' video list as an interesting serial and I find it very helpful and entertaining.
Much appreciated!
Dave, I just wanted to say YES I am very interested in seeing the results of your O.B.Experiments!!! I am In La., but I have a daughter in Nashville with the same problems as you have very clearly identified, in her KIA Sorento. So we are very interested in seeing the finished product of these test, (really excited about the B-12 treatments)!!! Please keep going & T.Y. so much for all of your do diligence, we are hanging on every one of your vid's, your pal!!!
Thanks so much for the super kind comment! Next B12 video coming soon!
Love watching this series!!! Great job.
Glad you enjoy it. Thanks for the kind comment, Glenn!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY keep going dont give up i was thinking u should change the oil to liqui molly and put liqui molly oil saver and see what happens and if u wanna clean the cat just use cataclean in the gas tank
Your daughter did well in the short clip we saw of her driving the manual vehicle.
All I saw was black smoke which indicates it is running rich, and that was when you were flooring the accelerator pedal.. There was a bit of moisture coming out at the start, but that is normal. As an exhaust system cools down it draws in moisture out of the air. Actually anything that cools down from high temperatures draws moisture in.
Have a 2004 Honda Accord 2.4 L 4 cylinder with 385,000 miles on it. Been using 1 quart of oil every 800-1000 miles for last 100,000 miles. Recently suddenly increased to 1 quart about every 350-400 miles. About 1 month ago I used 505CRO & 505CRF. Helped some but not much much as it now consumes 1 quart approx. every 600 miles. Compression on all cylinders are between 184 to 190. Couple of weeks ago I tried BG EPR also but it is still at 1 quart every 600 miles. Just thought that I would share my situation for whatever itâs worth. Enjoyed watching your videos and hopping you come across a solution that might help to some degree. Also, I would be willing to try a few more treatments of the 505 CRO but you canât only order that by itself. You must order the 505CRO & 505CRF which comes to around $75 with shipping.
Great info, AK! I know a lot of folks are wondering about that stuff since Scotty mentioned it.
am i seeing oil coming out exhaust at 23:20 again 23:50 under hard acceleration?
That's an awesome running little car,.
I'd sure be happy with it.
Great video series. I'm intrigued by each new update. I have a 2001 Celica with 257,000 miles, an oil burner, and I continue to add oil when it needs it. Scottie Kilmer says that's ok to do, and I trust his experience and knowledge. Keep up the good work!
Thank you, Larry!
looked to me like oil sprayed out the tailpipe. No?
Still hoping to see ATS chemical 505 cleaner.
Those cars are troopers.
always ready for the next vid. Peace.
You could be right, but I think it was condensation mixed with soot, as the engine was still warming up. I hear you on the ATS ... seems I'm getting a lot of comments on that now. ... Scotty --DOH!!
I think you should check the first CAT as well , the one right behing the exhaust manifold , cause most cars have two converters
Hello I have 2008 camry burning oil same your corolla I'm still waiting to get some additive can to help engine
Excellent video! Thanks for planing more corolla videos im so happy every time i see an upload!
As for the smoke does seem about appropriate for oil consumption.
Im closely watching have a diesel with oil consumption thats 1.5l/ 1000km so bit less than yours and it smokes even on idle if you look closely. You can smell oil. If you shine light from behind smoke at hight its clearly visible in the air
Looking forward to see a leakdown test think you are doing it in proper order
Thanks for the kind comment, Boz! I hope for the best with your diesel woes.
Despite the oil burning, it drives great!
Other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how did you like the play?
Kind of like all Scion vehicles.
Gallon of laccur thinner in gas tank keeps the mechanic away
Some people use lacquer thinner as a 2 day piston soak
when you accelerate hard there is quite a bit of black/grey smoke, maybe a little bit of oil getting past the rings and not burning off in the cat. I would check your spark plugs, maybe they were a little bit fouled was causing misfires, new plugs or clean them would be my first thing to do.
assuming its petrol not diesel?
just before this video i saw the video from 4 months ago changing the valve seals
you got the knowledge to work at thats far continuo to change the rings you can
Previous video in this series:
Blue Driver Scan tool results - Shooterlube comparison: th-cam.com/video/MRgDwcvWNyo/w-d-xo.html
Next video in this series:
Leak Down Test: th-cam.com/video/BSLjcBQboPg/w-d-xo.html
Entire oil burning experiment playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj.html
Berryman b12 rocks as a fuel system cleaner. I look forward to the upcoming videos Thanks.
Thanks William!
dave you should try liquimoly ceratec, for sure your cilinder wall is damaged and burning oil
Should this post be pinned?
@@duffman6675 yes, thanks!
you can also take out the front o2 sensor and use your endoscope to look in and see if the cat is clogged/broken
Would it be possible to slightly clean the honeycomb when you remove that sensor?
Thank you sir much love from Saudi Arabia
Excellent work & video! wow this is just priceless and will help a lot when i get to my Corolla's Cat. I can't wait for the video when you are smiling after eventually reviving the engine and correct what F$%^ Toyota's engineers got wrong. I love the simplicity of this car. You are the man! Thank you!
Thanks for the kind comment, Ronny. Much appreciated!
It's oil control; rings, might as well face it.
Positively
If it is Dave should try BG Dynamic Cleaner. If That couldn't remove the crud, only Koube SuperFlush Corrective would do it.
Please dude please just use bg it pretty amazing stuff or just pull the bottom end apart and pull the pistons out and re-ring it.
I agree
These Toyota engines are rubbish. They suffer from oil burning due to the type of piston rings they have...oil ring failures at 200 000 kms isn't uncommon. Nothing fixes it but a refresh. Use synthetic oil always and correct grade with frequent changes
Should have put the camera up the bottom of the manifold.
When i go on internet to order a cat for this engine, it actually shows a manifold. So if the manifold has the main cat (as suggested by the part shops), you missed it when you had bits and parts disconnected.
Would have been worth checking.
I have the same engine, buring at least 1L a week oil, AND i have the 420 codeð
I kinda waiting for you to fix my problem ð ðð
The only way to fix a 420 code is more ganja
i've been looking for this for ages
Hi Dave sorry for this question I just subscribed your channel. if I delete my Cat will the check engine light be on?
Yes. The O2 sensors will know it's gone. Thanks for the sub Francis!
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do the BG Engine Cleaner + Rinse + MOA. My 2016 Hyundai Sonata burns 1 quart every 500 miles without smoking & I'm convinced it's sticking oil control rings. What a stupid design to use "low tension" rings. What good is the money saved from higher MPG if I have to spend it adding oil? Just joined Class Action Lawsuit against Hyundai for "excessive oil consumption". Many thanks!
Pull the head and pan. Clean everything and change piston rings, new head gasket, maybe new crank bearings, valve adjustment and iridium spark plugs. Good to go! Maybe a quick cylinder hone if you know what your doing.
yes it is partially clogged on the outer part, with just a clear part in the center; mine was like that and I put some degreaser in it.
You have found the oil. Another test is to put your hand over the oil fill tube while it is running. There should be no pressure on your hand (ring blow by). I bought a car with 227K miles with no ring blow by to teach sister in law to drive. 6K miles later and it uses a quart in 3K miles.
If I remember, I'll probably do that in the next video, along with seeing if anything comes out of the oil fill hole.
Yeah it definitely sounds like there's a chance the PCV valve could be getting stuck and causing issues.
I need to do tests like this too.
Pine hollow auto diagnostics does a GREAT video replacing the rings on one of these cars and drilling out the oil holes in the pistons.
He also states that if you use synthetic oil and change it religious you won't have this problem at all. Go figure.
I have to correct you on the voltage of the second O2 sensor. As long as it's stable(ish) (+- 10%) and always over 0.5V, you're good. The closer it is to 1V, the better your efficient is.
Well snap, that's what I get for skipping around. Left a nice pile of check values towards the end of your playlist but I see you've hit the OBD here. Ah well, I'll leave it as there were a few bits at the end that may help someone one day.
Add: Yoooo, that exhaust cam: ðð Most times when people talk about blow-by coming out of the pipe, it's still relatively gaseous. Your Corolla is more on the Exxon Valdez side of the scale. Still sounds and shifts like a top though! In my opinion, with all adolescent kids, it should be mandatory to drive manual transmissions until the age of independent monetary exemption. With all their tentacles engaged in driving, they've no free suckers to be playing on phones and in-car gadgets. Guess that could apply to a lot of adults, too!
you are awesome. thanks for the video.
Have you tried doing hard pulls? I've had 2 different cars stop blowing off blue smoke when I started driving them lol
I had same issue your rear o2 is lazy that's why straight then bounce around
Seen people run pure diesel instead of oil in heavily sludged and oil burning engines as last resort, for 15-30 minutes. 50/50 chance of success, either way the engine even before that is clearly headed for full bottom end overhaul.
Nice videos showing people that these additives /cleaner are not the solution in severe cases of oil burning ( more than a liter every 5000km as example).
Or half diesel Iâve seen. (( remember diesel and kerosene are oily))
did you try bg cleaning if does work like they saying
What would happen if the 02 censer has to change,can this cause the warning light to come on???
If the downstream sensor goes low voltage while accelerating, is also a sign that the CAT. is clogged or partially clogged or if the fuel trims are negative
Hi Your oil consumption issue is most likely due to worn valve guides. We used to put new umbrella valve seals on the valve stems so the oil doesn't just run down the worn valve guide into the cylinder.
He already replaced valve stem seals
@@Taydrum Missed that one!
Come on Wayne pay attention, I've had some fords that, that fixed
All of those bore scope shots into the bore clearly show what the problem is. All the oil on the cylinder walls in the amount present should not be there in those amounts. All of the oil on top of the pistons comes from that. The only way that happens is if the oil control rings do not have enough tension, enough drain holes, or gummed up. The fact that you have good compression tells us the other rings, bores and valve stems, guides adn seals are all working perfectly as they should.
In the above video you can clearly see smoke out the exhaust on hard acceleration and up shifts. You can also see oil dripping from the muffler tip and small droplets spraying out of it as well.
I completely agree.
Could be a cool video if you test catalytic converter cleaners like Cataclean, Rislone Cat complete, Duralube Cat treatment.
Test them to see which one pooches the cat?
I have used lacquer thinner on a full tank of gas for the cat and boy did it clean out the whole system. Noticable increase in power as well.
Blow by is happening at high revs. What you didn't do is simply drive at high revs sustained. You tended to hit high revs momentarily uder wide open throttle. What we needed to see is how much combustion blow by is happening at say 3000 rpm sustained, or perhaps 5000rpm sustained. In any event, almost certainly your oil consumption problem will be fixed by putting in new rings. Be warned however... perhaps the cylinder liners need to rebored slightly oversized, which might require slightly oversized pistons. Maybe.
Evap DTC's will NEVER cause a misfire @ highway speeds that's where purge is designed to occur, under engine load.
A purge valve stuck open will only be noticeable at idle.
Catalyst DTC's P0420, P0430 are never the Ox sensors, the ECU algorithm uses the front & rear Ox sensors to SET the catalyst DTC, so they both HAVE to be working correctly.
the rear Ox sensor is not used for fuel trim, only catalyst monitoring.
The Cat doesn't have to be plugged, just both the sensor signals are about the same, that's what sets the P0420 DTC.
PS: when you try and remove any exhaust bolts ? tighten it slightly first before you try and loosen it. ( old timers trick )
Very well done! I've just purchased a Duel camera Bore scope and I'm dying to see what I can see throughout my 2007 Lexus IS350 with 174K miles on it. Ive been thinking of looking Into my gasoline tank, my throttle body, my plug holes and now at my cat. I purchased it with 100k in March of 2018. I've been getting P0173 & P0174 codes on my Bluedriver scan tool telling me it's running lean. I plan on pulling my plugs and doing a compression test this Thanksgiving weekend 2022. I exsperiance the occasional back fire not miss fire.
Thanks! I'd love to get the new dual-camera model too. I just saw they had a dual camera version. All the best with your Lexus, Jeff!
Wow that's a ton of smoke coming out the back! Doesn't mean it's beyond saving, but definitely a lot of smoke. At this point, however, I think it needs new rings. The low tension rings just weren't a very good design in my opinion. Love your videos though
Agreed. Blue smoke under acceleration, as averse to deceleration, plus new valve seals recently fitted - absolutely points to very tired rings and bores. Personally I would have done a compression test much MUCH earlier in the process. As a rule of thumb, good compression + blue smoke (especially on start and/or deceleration) usually means valve seals. Poor compression + blue smoke (especially during hard acceleration) usually means rings and bores.
Full credit to thecontent creator however. That go pro looking back at the exhaust tip was very inventive.
Piston oil rings are bad. It's blowing.,or what's called spitting oil past the oil rings out of the exhaust pipe.
Hi again!!
As i told you in another thread i replaced my clogged cat, made a big difference how it behaves, i realice that the new one might not have a long life due to the oil burning!! Anyway what i wanted to tell you is that my old cat was worth a lot of money!! so if you decide to change it ,(P0420 right??) the old one contains a lot of valuable metals so it might pay for a new aftermarket cheaper cat!!
Have a nice day!!
Iâm no mechanic, but why didnât clean or replace the oxygen sensors while you were under the car ?
I probably should have cleaned them ... but I don't want to replace them until the oil burning is fixed.
if a catalytic converter is thought to be clogged, FIRST DIAGNOSE THE CAUSE before fixing the converter. otherwise, the new converter will also be clogged.
clogging can be the result of leaking piston rings, valve stem seal, pcv malfunction...
That's hilarious bro, when all you had to do to get that converter moved back was to slide the muffler off of the hangar bracket... then you could have slid the exhaust rearward enough.
Thanks for the tip.
LMAO! The exhaust cam DOES show enough smoke for the amount of oil being burned... 1 quart every 300 miles or so, right? You most certainly need new rings. A full ring and bearing job would go a long way to restoring the engine.
Totally not worth it. Say it was $5k for that work, and $5/quart of oil. Thatâs 1000 quarts so 300,000 miles to use that much oil. Just buy economical oil and perhaps a heavier weight.
But that's with flooring it. I've seen cars/trucks blowing out WAY more blue smoke under less load.
It's always a good idea to break your sensor's loose while everything is hot then go have a beer and by the time you are finished it should be cooled down enough
was that her first drive she picked that up so quick.
To much smoke, the problem is obviously piston rings clogged and cilinder wall schath, no chemicals solutions, solve it by take the head out make a diagnosis if you want to keep the audiense it will be great to watch the tear down, love your videos.
1ZZ pistons draining holes have a bad design and is easy to clogged up, need to make more holes to drain properly the oil back to the oil pan, if you want to solve permanently the problem must take those pistons out. You can see it in other channels. May be BG Dnamic engine cleaner can help because is very agresive cleaner, but in the end the problem will come back
This might not work for you but I actually used suggestion from one comment by pushing rpm to redline for a short period of time on highway and my misfire disappeared with the catalyst below threshold code. So weird
Your engine misfire codes needed to be cleared every time there was a difficult start after chemical test/wash and after valve seal replacement
I wish you would have cleaned the O2 sensors while they were out. ððū
Great point!
Whats clogg the catcon is phosphorous ash. That's why oil co had to remove half of antiwear additive from the oil, the ZDDP. Happens way more on oil consumers.
To test a cat all you need is a way to read the temp of the incoming temp and the outgoing temp .
I had to replace the catalytic converter in my 03 Corolla CE
My oldest daughter learned to drive in my Corolla. Ended up buying an 06 Corolla S for her.
I haven't finished this video yet, so it might happen later, but have you actually checked each cylinders compression to make sure one cylinder just isn't worn?
Pretty straight forward process, start the car, disconnect the fuel pump fuel while running, let it die, give it some time to cool than pull spark plugs one at a time.
First try it dry, than about a tablespoon full of oil in each cylinder. The oil will help seal the cylinder, it will raise pressure, test each cylinder and make sure they are all giving similar pressure.
If the motor/a cylinder is worn it would explain the oil use as its getting past the oil control ring due to a loose tolerance. It would also explain why nothing up until now has helped.
Not saying its the cause, but it would explain a lot.
I have done a compression test, but we might do this again in the leak-down test video. Thanks for the comment!
I got rid of my PO420 by replacing the upstream O2 sensor.
You're running rich! Check your fuel trims!ð
Us a denso rear o2
Try a hot thermostat say 205 up .
that smoke looks like gas... its dark... doesnt look blue like oil smoke... it had a lil blue to it but not insane... specially when it was cold ... I've seem valve steem seals do that.
unplug the o2sens. connector first, before unscrewing it, if not the wires will break!!!!
NGK makes the best plugs.
What's going on here is oil's getting past the rings. This is either a warped cylinder or your rings are bad.
Actually that is a lot of smoke out the tail pipe since this car has a CAT. Once the CAT gets up to temperature you will get more soot rather than blue smoke. You may have already tried this but put a new TOYOTA PCV. Its worth a couple extra bucks to get the correct one.
Maybe he is running smokeless synthetic 2 stroke oil.
ð
Cats clog up do to heavy oil burning will take a cat out .that is the number one cause for it.You need a complete set of rings.That engine had a recall from Toyota years ago to address this promblem.
Drive it with the converter bypassed.
A 20w50 may shut the oil drinking mouth of this car in 1 mile! Where Dave lives is warm enough to do that 20w50, no problem. 5w30 is for Canada, Greenland, North Europe, not Florida.
That is sound old logic, but, When Toyota went to thinner oil rings, they created a problem with sludge clogging up the oil rings so now they use the same piston and rings but recommended thinner oil five and zero weight to help push the sludge out of the rings, and that solved the oil burning problems in Toyota recently. Plenty of utube vids on this
@@pinonnut zero weight don't make sludge, because there's no mineral version.
Motor running too rich.
Do a drain and fill on the transmission
Catalytic converter must definitely cut off (remove).
Oh you're looking for pro tips, always put a shirt on when you fry bacon. Pro tip
I did not see ONE CAT throughout this entire video! I'm disappointed.
Doh! ... Hindsight's 20/20.
It's bad!
Stop on the cat .... dont use any additives .... Fix the valve seals!
Not actually wanting to fix the car but keep it broken just to make endless meandering videos is not cool. No one learns anything from this, in fact, they are led astray by all this nonsense.
Thanks for the input, Strategic Thinker.
Who are you to say this is uncool? I learned a lot, even if it was not what I was hoping for. I'm going to pull the motor, and fix it. It took alot of effort to determine which one of these chemicals really worked. did you know that for certain?
Thanks!
Thank YOU BJ!!