Well hello there... Besides amazing 22RE content, I found your pancake recipe posted a few years ago. Those best dang pancakes I've ever eaten. It comes with no surprise, however seeing how meticulous you are with working on cars. Thanks Ray.
Thanks Andy! Yeah, those pancakes are darn good. My daughter loves having them for dinner when she visits :) Glad you enjoy the 22RE stuff as well. I'm just about to test drive my truck over here and see if the most recent upgrades solve this crazy oil into the catch can issue.
Been binge watching your vids as I have been having oil consumption problems with my 22RE as well. Would you be willing to do an instructional vid on how to build that PCV system? Or is that a pro-secret? I know you've described it but it'd be so helpful to see a step by step. I've ordered a catch can and tubing, and hoping to build something similar to your non-adjustable system in the meantime. Thanks for taking the time to do these vids. I've learned a TON
Thanks a lot Adam, appreciate it. Are you talking about the dual channel PCV thing? I'm happy to share any info you need on how to build it or anything.
Yeah, on my valve cover I had to remove the front baffle thing in order to provide the necessary clearance for the dual row timing chain. As a result of that, when you unscrew the oil fill cap and remove it, you can see down in there and see the timing chain, the nose of the camshaft, the camshaft gear, etc. If you check a couple of my more recent videos, I think in one of them I actually show it. But short answer is yes, you can see the timing chain no problem. However, finding the shiny links is another issue, as everything is covered in oil.
It's mainly just for testing purposes. When it's cold, it won't idle very well when it's blocked off. Once the motor gets up to operating temp, then it idles as normal. The idle screw is a separate hole, which offers its own control.
@@ray5961 gotcha I’m gonna tinker with mine thinking about the egr delte and the pcv delete just heard u talking about that one with tape might through that in too and btw what kind of tape becuz if that comes off it’s going in?
@@kyleburns1546 Duct tape works fine, but make sure you wrap the lip out and over the edge of the throttle body, so it's trapped between the rubber elbow and the outside - that would prevent it from coming loose and getting sucked in. Don't leave it on there too long either, it's just for diagnostic purposes, not long term or anything. The EGR delete is fine; it will help to keep the intake system clean and give you a little bit more power. The EGR has both pros and cons to it, but yeah, it's kind of a pain in some ways and very dirty for the inside of the motor. I would not suggest removing the PCV stuff. If you do that, you are going to create issues for yourself. The crankcase will end up pressurized if you don't install a breather. If you do install a breather, you will inadvertently throw off the EFI fuel mapping (unless you are running a carburetor, which I assume you aren't). Make sure you fully understand how all the systems function and what they do before you start ripping stuff off and throwing it into the trash over there :) I've made that mistake more than once and it's not fun.
Amazon for the catch can - here's basically the same one: www.amazon.com/EVIL-ENERGY-Universal-Reservoir-Aluminum/dp/B081N392BN - and for the bracket, I made it from 10mm / 3/8 thick ABS from McMaster.com - just used a hack saw and some wood rasps to shape it and drill it. Then used some SS coupling nuts as stand offs from the brake booster - these here: www.mcmaster.com/90111A333/
I'm starting to think that might not be a bad idea yeah. I think next time I build a motor, I will slightly increase the oil return passage between the head and the pan yes.
I think your swamping hypothesis might be accurate. The amount of oil being blown around in the valve cover from the stock pump is astonishing. Forget to put the oil cap back on and start the engine and in seconds you will have an oily racing stripe across your hood. A pump that increases the amount of oil in there could possibly be overwhelming the design parameters of the scavenging system.
Yeah, I'm wondering about that also. I've seen videos on line where they construct clear oil pans and clear valve covers and fire up the motor... the volume or oil that moves is amazing. I'm definitely wondering if positive crank case pressure (for any extended duration) could slow down oil returning to the pan just enough to create some mild vapor look situation or something, which would allow oil to build up at the back of the head where it has to travel down that return passage. It's hard to say for sure, but sometimes I wonder about it being a contributing factor here all right.
I’m struggling on that pcv having to much pressure given that it’s a turbo that I put in seeing what’s my options thinking to out in also a oil catch can
You could convert over to a full dry sump system, but that's a big job. The other option might be to plumb something ahead of the inlet of the turbo or throttle body that opens under boost. That's one to probably research on line a bit.
Well hello there... Besides amazing 22RE content, I found your pancake recipe posted a few years ago. Those best dang pancakes I've ever eaten. It comes with no surprise, however seeing how meticulous you are with working on cars. Thanks Ray.
Thanks Andy! Yeah, those pancakes are darn good. My daughter loves having them for dinner when she visits :) Glad you enjoy the 22RE stuff as well. I'm just about to test drive my truck over here and see if the most recent upgrades solve this crazy oil into the catch can issue.
Nice Nardi/Personal!
Thanks! Yeah, I love that little wheel :) It's on an NRG quick detach hub also haha.
Been binge watching your vids as I have been having oil consumption problems with my 22RE as well. Would you be willing to do an instructional vid on how to build that PCV system? Or is that a pro-secret? I know you've described it but it'd be so helpful to see a step by step. I've ordered a catch can and tubing, and hoping to build something similar to your non-adjustable system in the meantime. Thanks for taking the time to do these vids. I've learned a TON
Thanks a lot Adam, appreciate it. Are you talking about the dual channel PCV thing? I'm happy to share any info you need on how to build it or anything.
Are you able to see the TDC link on the tuning chain passed the baffle without removing the valve cover (to avoid) ? Thanks
Yeah, on my valve cover I had to remove the front baffle thing in order to provide the necessary clearance for the dual row timing chain. As a result of that, when you unscrew the oil fill cap and remove it, you can see down in there and see the timing chain, the nose of the camshaft, the camshaft gear, etc. If you check a couple of my more recent videos, I think in one of them I actually show it. But short answer is yes, you can see the timing chain no problem. However, finding the shiny links is another issue, as everything is covered in oil.
So u blocked off the air control valve ? With tape…what does it idle at?? Becuz if u adjust the screw the idle goes up and down
It's mainly just for testing purposes. When it's cold, it won't idle very well when it's blocked off. Once the motor gets up to operating temp, then it idles as normal. The idle screw is a separate hole, which offers its own control.
@@ray5961 gotcha I’m gonna tinker with mine thinking about the egr delte and the pcv delete just heard u talking about that one with tape might through that in too and btw what kind of tape becuz if that comes off it’s going in?
@@kyleburns1546 Duct tape works fine, but make sure you wrap the lip out and over the edge of the throttle body, so it's trapped between the rubber elbow and the outside - that would prevent it from coming loose and getting sucked in. Don't leave it on there too long either, it's just for diagnostic purposes, not long term or anything. The EGR delete is fine; it will help to keep the intake system clean and give you a little bit more power. The EGR has both pros and cons to it, but yeah, it's kind of a pain in some ways and very dirty for the inside of the motor. I would not suggest removing the PCV stuff. If you do that, you are going to create issues for yourself. The crankcase will end up pressurized if you don't install a breather. If you do install a breather, you will inadvertently throw off the EFI fuel mapping (unless you are running a carburetor, which I assume you aren't). Make sure you fully understand how all the systems function and what they do before you start ripping stuff off and throwing it into the trash over there :) I've made that mistake more than once and it's not fun.
where did you get the catch can and bracket from
Amazon for the catch can - here's basically the same one: www.amazon.com/EVIL-ENERGY-Universal-Reservoir-Aluminum/dp/B081N392BN - and for the bracket, I made it from 10mm / 3/8 thick ABS from McMaster.com - just used a hack saw and some wood rasps to shape it and drill it. Then used some SS coupling nuts as stand offs from the brake booster - these here: www.mcmaster.com/90111A333/
@ray5961 very nice. Wish you could make me a bracket for the catch cam just like what you have. I'd pay to get it done
@@erahelp Appreciate the vote of confidence, but not in the part making business yet :) Maybe down the road.
So ! moral to the story if you're going to use a high flow oil pump slightly porting the oil passages might not hurt.
I'm starting to think that might not be a bad idea yeah. I think next time I build a motor, I will slightly increase the oil return passage between the head and the pan yes.
I think your swamping hypothesis might be accurate. The amount of oil being blown around in the valve cover from the stock pump is astonishing. Forget to put the oil cap back on and start the engine and in seconds you will have an oily racing stripe across your hood. A pump that increases the amount of oil in there could possibly be overwhelming the design parameters of the scavenging system.
Yeah, I'm wondering about that also. I've seen videos on line where they construct clear oil pans and clear valve covers and fire up the motor... the volume or oil that moves is amazing. I'm definitely wondering if positive crank case pressure (for any extended duration) could slow down oil returning to the pan just enough to create some mild vapor look situation or something, which would allow oil to build up at the back of the head where it has to travel down that return passage. It's hard to say for sure, but sometimes I wonder about it being a contributing factor here all right.
I’m struggling on that pcv having to much pressure given that it’s a turbo that I put in seeing what’s my options thinking to out in also a oil catch can
You could convert over to a full dry sump system, but that's a big job. The other option might be to plumb something ahead of the inlet of the turbo or throttle body that opens under boost. That's one to probably research on line a bit.