Upgrade Starlink Wi-Fi with a DIY TP-Link Omada Network
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ม.ค. 2025
- Let's replace the Starlink router with this upgraded and fully expandable network! I integrate the TP Link Omada system within the Starlink Internet.
Thanks to Haven Pines for the guidance on setting this system up! Check out their channel here: / @havenpines
The hardware I purchased is as follows:
TP-Link Multi-WAN Wired VPN Router ER-R605: amzn.to/3J0xBVd
TP-Link TL-SG2008P | Jetstream 8 Port Gigabit Smart Managed PoE Switch: amzn.to/3dZDYKl
TP-Link EAP225 V3 | Omada AC1350 Gigabit Wireless Access Point: amzn.to/3p4rTd5
TP-Link EAP225-Outdoor | Omada AC1200 Wireless Gigabit Outdoor Access Point:
amzn.to/30Iqe3C
TP-Link TL-SG1005P V2 | 5 Port Gigabit PoE Switch
amzn.to/3E9Kvwx
TP-Link Omada Hardware Controller
amzn.to/3meXKGh
Just wanted to thank you for your video. I’ve installed and set up an Omada system with a hardware controller and er605. Two outdoor access points, and two indoor aps covered my property, house and shop. Your video was exactly what I needed for my Starlink setup.
Great to hear!
I installed 3 EAP 225 around my house and they work great. I also added their OC200 cloud controller to manage it. That way you dont need to leave your computer on 24x7.
That's awesome. I just got 2 and put on each end of my shop. Will all 3 of the AP do the seamless routing or do you have to switch manual? also, do you have to use Omada managment??
@@CWBKC for your devices to switch automatically from one AP to another you will need to run either the cloud controller on a PC or with a hardware one. My OC200 does this and yes, I manage my network with it.
@@JohnZoetebier. You will need to leave the controller on if you want to be able to seamlessly switch from one EAP to another if you are moving around a site. The controller monitors the db levels as you move and then issues the switch to the next EAP.
Great video ❗️Thanks for sharing.
I would connect both buildings with a fiber optic cable. Even TP Link sells switches and media connectors for DIY fiber optic networks. And since you already purchased the conduit, all you need to do is get some fiber and burry it for a super fast connection.
Good luck with your projects ❗️
I tried the outdoor EAP 225, just as an AP. I monted it ca. 1m(3 feet) over my roof.
Now all of my traditional rural property is covered and all of my wifi controlled stuff(surveilence, GPSmower, etc) has a solid connection.
So i recommend mounting the outdoor EAP 225 above the rooftop, to give a 100% long range yard coverage.
Carefull with the lightning.
Congrats on your new setup. I also setup a TP Link Omada system in the house using their router, 2 EAPs and 4 switches. So far so good!
Thanks!
Could also be that water got inside the cable through a crack or cut in the outer sleeve. I used to see that allot the ground shifts around a bit in winter and cracks the outer sleeve water then builds up inside and will even wick up and into the house.
Next time burry the cable inside a garden hose, I found that to work well for cheap, or pick up a roll of 3/4 black pvc and use that as a buried conduit.
I have a similar shed off in the distance on my property. Instead of TP-Link I used Ubiquiti. The nano-beam antenna is directional rather than your standard wi-fi omnidirectional antenna, allowing you to travel kilometers if needed, the tradeoff being that you need to aim them to get a proper signal.
My star-link is the 2nd gen rectangle that I had to get an adapter to bypass it and allow me to use the Ubiquiti gear, but other than different brand it's pretty much the exact same arrangement.
My neighbor has Ubiquiti too. I thought about giving it a try!
TP link does have a nanobeam antenna that i thought about using instead. I just haven't had the need for that better latency. I do have direct line of site. Maybe some day I will order it for giggles.
The issue is it isn't a Omada controlled device. It is different, so it wouldn't be as easy to control.
@@OutdoorsEngineer - Yeah, having everything fall into one ecosystem of brand/control makes life a WHOLE lot easier. I'm happy with Ubiquiti but it's good to see some variety/competition be available for people to choose from :)
Hey, In the northwoods!! how are you? As a specialist in wireless networks, I strongly recommend that you leave the antennas of external devices, always straight, for 360º coverage. the way you showed in the video the coverage and especially the LINK Bridge between the aps, it is not 100% stable. what you can do better in the future is to make a point-to-point with small directional antennas between the house and your office, using for example two antennas tp-link cpe 510 outdoor, so you will have 100% of the link to the house in the office. just align the two pieces of equipment as much as you can. Congratulations on the excellent assembly of the equipment. and remember that if you live in a region that snows, use outdoor cat6 cables for the equipment that will be outside.
Thanks for the tips!
The cpe 510 are not Omada. I don’t think it will work
Sounds like just the kind of video that I needed for my farm.
@@MichaelNichols-ec9pt it is the perfect scenario!
Thank you so much. Do I need a controller if I only have the ER605 router and an access point?
You need a controller of some sort, either using the local hardware controller, or the software controller, which is free, hosted on a computer. The computer does not need to be connected all the time.
I use TP-Link Powerline Adapters which work very well and I would most definitely get more, but I suspect that the Broadband Over Mains adapters are frowned upon in the US as they interfere with bands across the band.
Thank you for this video. It has been useful to me for setting up things to be little better in my farm as well.
Glad it was helpful!
Personally I'd make the hole thru the metal shed wall a little bigger and add a grommet to prevent chafing the cable, it won't take long with wind moving the cable and/or the wall to damage the cable.
I was thinking about using a grommet as well. To do it right though he should straight cable through (no end) so it is nice and tight and then terminate the cable inside on a punch jack placed in a wall plate. Then plug your internal cable from the POE switch into the wall plate.
A simpler solution would be to just caulk generously around where the cable enters the garage to prevent the cable from wearing.
There are also outside rated ethernet cables available that are made to stand up to the elements which I would run to the outside access points.
I ran my ethernet to my shed inside buried glued watertight pvc conduit which would not have cost that much (much less than the network equipment). The pvc protects the cable from harm and the elements. I never would have run straight ethernet cable underground. If he used a buried cat 6A cable he would be rated up to 10Gb out to his shed. His Starlink would never get that fast but with the right switches he could transfer other data at a much faster rate than with wireless.
AWSOME REVIEW. I AM THINKING IS IT POSSIBLE THE VLAN NETWORKS IN YOUR EXTENDED AP IN THE SHOP CAN YPU HELP US TO CONFIRM LIKE MULTIPLE SSID
Buen contenido, nteresante en verdad, veo que el vdieo tiene un año ya, en la actualidad yo pondría dos o 3 Deco x50 Outdoor Tp Link Wifi Mesh y habría obtenido el mismo resultado, saludos.
I'm not a fan of TP-link gear. My preference has been to use Ubiquiti equipment. The airMAX products for a point to point link (house to shop) and the Unifi line for networking (router, switches and access points).
Just curious, why do you prefer it? Thanks
He likely likes to pay more. Even though they indeed got better switches but I like Omada a lot too. I got 4x APs
@@TheBigJohny TP Link gear I've used in the past hasn't been as reliable. Also they seem to upgrade hardware, in the same model number, quickly which leaves the older hardware outdated and lacking firmware updates.
Ubiquiti on the other hand has been rock solid for me. I've used their airMAX products over a 9 mile link with no issues and their Unifi systems in several locations have been online for years with nothing more than firmware updates. And while Ubiquiti does EOL (end of life) their gear, all of the Ubiquiti gear that I've bought over the last 5 years or so is still supported.
Yes, the Ubiquiti gear costs more. But, in my case, I'll pay the extra money it costs to get the reliability and longevity their products have provided me.
@@mikeborkhuis7278 you are absolutely right. I will most likely keep buying Ubiquiti in next stage. The only thing I have doubt is security. Can you run all of your network just on premise? Without some stupid cloud having your data? And what about their leak?
@@TheBigJohny Depends, but their routers lack basic features like UEFI and Legacy BIOS network booting support. UDM cannot be provisioned without a cloud account, and already existing internet access.
Great video, thanks!
Glad you liked it!
You have a lovely home, sir.
Thank you kindly!
Why did you get omni directional AP's between the house and shop when you could have easily done a PTP 5 ghz between the 2?
Does TP Link have a PTP Setup?
@@OutdoorsEngineer AC867 or N300
@@OutdoorsEngineer it just doesn't make sense to waste dB on 360 degrees when you don't need it. Especially on both ends. That's why your throughput is so low in the shop. It would only make sense if you had 3 or more buildings on the property that you were trying to just get usable signals to.
@@kearneykarting i get it. Researching the AC867 briefly it isn't obvious it will work with Omada, but I will do some more research. At this point I am just happy to have internet out there, even if there is increased latency.
@@OutdoorsEngineer if you're happy with the throughput and latency, that's all that matters. You might see if you can run one or both of the bridge AP's as a wifi AP as well. You wouldn't need another WiFi AP to cover outdoors because you already have it.
If we use a mesh system, is it true the Starlink App doesn't give information about our network? Is the app you are using (to see your %) an Omada app? If I'm using Deco Tp-link, I should use the deco app NOT the starling app? Thanks!
In my setup, the Starlink app shows everything except for the wi-fi setup. This includes visibility, statistics, and more. I control everything wi-fi through the Omada controller. At 18:15 I discuss how I got it to work. th-cam.com/video/OnW9PhO7TFQ/w-d-xo.html
I think that you have to use the Starlink in order to get the status of the Starlink Internet.
Not necessarily. Once you set up a Static IP route you can access it.
Now that you have had your system for almost a year how is it working for you? Do you see lower speeds with multiple devices being used while in your shop and home at the same time? We are getting our Starlink next month and wanted to use it for 3 homes on the property that are approx 300 ft in distance. from main house to house 2 175ft and from house 2 to house 3 175 ft in distance. Would love to know if this system would work for our property? Thank you for you great video!
Hi! Yes, the system would work! The more line of site between the access points on the houses the better. You will see a slight latency loss on the far end of the mesh network (House 3) but if you are in it just for internet access you should be fine. You could also look into the TP Link Pharos control for creating the link between the houses and then use the Omada EAP 225's as access points in the houses. I almost made that change but decided I didn't really need that good of a connection. I am perfectly happy with using the EAP 225 outdoor mesh network to make the connection between the homes.
I also have a Wifi and solar powered security camera out on our property that is 300 feet from one access point and 400' from the other. The camera works great at those distances too, even with some trees in the way.
I’m using a similar setup but regularly have disconnect Alerts even though the EAP is connected directly to the OC200 network controller. I regularly get -70dBm on the wireless link to another EAP. Do you have feeling for was is good signal and what is low/bad? Thanks for sharing BTW good vid.
I do also get disconnect alerts through the controller on the varying AP's I have but I haven't had any noticeable usability issues. Early on, in my shop I had some struggles with internet stability. Since then, I have update the firmware on all pieces in the system and it has been stable ever since. I'm also seeing around -60 to -80 dB of signal strength on my wireless AP's and also some of the wi-fi cameras I have scattered around the yard . This seems to be an acceptable value. I don't really have a feeling on what that limit is but i don't really want to push it much more than that.
There are some wi-fi strength apps that you can use to determine the strength of your wi-fi connection on the phone and then you could use that to help determine what might be acceptable too.
I am using the eap 215 to send wifi to my detached utility garage that is 80 ft away.
Works great! I know see that TP Link has Point to point Bridges available too!
This is exactly what I'm looking for.. would adding a third building be as simple as just cloning all the devices in your shop?
Yeah. The 3rd building would be just as simple with this setup. Pretty much plug it in and the system will automatically see and adopt the equipment. Im thinking about adding a few more so I can get a wifi camera out by my roadside stand!
@@OutdoorsEngineer is there a way to fix the diagram where the shop is showing as plugged into the PoE in your house?
@@polyesterhat Are you talking within the Omada Controller? Not that I have found.
What is the reason of using TP-Link Router ER605, instead of using Starlink Router?
I needed wi-fi throughout my property and in my shop. Srarlink router is not strong enough for that. TP link Omada fit the bill and the ER605 router, switches and APs fit the bill and integrates automatically with the Omada controller.
what app did you use to test your wifi signal?
WiFi signal meter
how would you lose connection when u burried the ethernet cable under the ground? how deep did you burry it? and how did it break?
It was 6-8" in the ground. We 2-3' of frost here in the winter. The ground moves when it freezes and i expect that it broke from the frost,/tree roots that the cable navigates through.
I have problem with the eap225 outdoor, keep failing the adopting. any suggestion? the rest of the AP are working even the eap110 outdoor, only the 225 doesn't work. I use oc Omada controller hardware
Did you get it figured out? Is it somewhat connected? Maybe try doing a factory reset on the 225. I had an issue one time, and if I remember correctly, I was able to get them re-connected with a factory reset.
I did the factory reset still having the same problem, I was told that I can’t do it with starlink as router
Does it have a guest network option?
@theppgcowboy Yes, I actually have two guest networks. And you can specify which access point emits each network.
You must have used the wrong switch port in your shed as the POE switch you purchased for that location is a five port switch with four POE ports and one non POE port. You should be able to run both the inside and outside POE equipment in the shed if they are plugged into the POE ports.
I am guessing you plugged the outside device into the non POE port so you had to use a separate power injector. You should be able to use four POE devices straight from the switch as long as they do not draw more power than the POE switch can supply.
That might be the case. For some reason at the time I thought the switches had an in and and out port, but I also know most of them are bi-directional too. I'll have to switch it and find out.
@@OutdoorsEngineer Looking at the front of the switch (port side) the left four ports are POE and the right port is not. All ports act the same way for non POE functions.
Looks similar to the project im working on! Just ran 250 feet of Cat 6 out to my my metal pole barn and have an EAP225 on order. I was hoping I could get wifi inside the barn with the EAP225 mounted on the outside of the barn. We shall see. I didnt even consider using 2 EAP225s and forgoing the Cat6 between the house. Not sure if the POE cameras would be happy with that. Are you using the POE injector that comes with the EAP225? I watched a video that suggested it robbed speed, as opposed to just using a POE switch.
Yeah, If I remember correctly, I am using the POE Injector on the Outdoor EAP 225 on my shop as it is connected to the Uplink port of the Powered switch in the shop. I haven't noticed much of a speed loss, and am happy with the performance, as I'm not attempting to do video calls or gaming out there. Just streaming videos and access to the internet. I have done wi-fi phone calls and they work most of the time in the shop. Using two outdoor EAP 225's does introduce a latency loss to the network in the shop, due to the inherent connection between the two EAP 225's. The 225's emit a wide signal and it's not as an efficient connection as something like Cat6 or the TP LINK Pharos controlled CPE long range broadband.
I didn’t know that the injectors rob speed. Thank you for pointing that out
I have the starlink router hooked up to the Ethernet adapter and running a cat 6 cable directly to a single EAP225 (using POE injector). The SSID shows up and I can connect to the EAP225 but within a minute or so it disappears, then reappears, then disappears. I’ve tried two of them and they both do the same thing. Do I need a controller or something else in between? I would think I can just connect it and use it as an access point.
Help me, tp link ac1200 or the 110? What’s the difference
The EAP 225 (ac1200) is a better AP compared to the EAP 110. EAP 225 is a Gigabit and has better specifications (Allows 2.4 Ghz and 5 Ghz). EAP 110 is only 300 Mbps and only utilizes 2.4 Ghz. I found this out by comparing the specs of the two on TP-Link's website.
Hi everyone. Does your whole network need to run TP-Link for you to use the EAP225 as an access point like Unifi? or can i mix and match it with other branded hardware?
GOod question. I am not sure.
Hi there, thanks for the video, just got my Starlink Gen 2 set up and currently looking into this - I already have a couple of Omada access points but no controller. Quick question - why do you use the TL-R605 router instead of just plugging the Starlink router directly into thenPoe switch? What’s the advantage? I need the Ethernet adapter for my gen2 router but was just going to plug that directly into the omada network. Would you still use the omada router with the gen2 Starlink router running in bypass mode? (Gen 2 Starlink needs the router attached and running even if it’s bypassed and uses another router).
My assumption is that it would work to use the Starlink router to the POE switch. What is nice with having the complete Omada system (starting at the router and controller to the APs) is you have complete control over everything through the controller. You then have access if you chose, to control your network through the cloud from anywhere in the world. I chose to turn the cloud access off.
This includes WiFi network settings, any router settings needed, etc. Note, I am not a network engineer by any means. Ha.
It's seems to me you disconnected your cameras networks from this internet system how do you remotely control your house are you using ip cameras or analog ones
The cameras are still connected. They go to a DVR and the DVR is connected to my large switch which is hardwired into the router. I use the app from the manufacturer to control them.
Hey bro
Do u think I do the same thing in a large scale
For like a mini estate
For sure. There are ways you could set up a nice mesh network!
@In the Northwoods so all I gotta do is follow this steps with more access points right?
Also how do I handle traffic cos there will be more than 100 users
And I'll be using one starlink
@@cruisejay1991 should be fine. Do some looking on TP Links website. All of this stuff falls under the business wifi. In not an expert in it by any means but that many users probably would be ok.
@In the Northwoods oh thank you
But i could still use it with my starlink
Instead of getting another isp,I'll just use starlink and might as well charge the users
Thank you so much bro
Your speed would have been better between the two buildings if you'd used a directional antenna for the link between the two buildings - the outdoor antenna is used for general "area" coverage, not line of site. They give you outdoor WiFi, not not the best for direct LoS connections.
I 100% agree and understand that. I even thought about purchasing the TP Link directional antennas to do just this. But haven't really justified a need because there really isn't that much of a drop off of latency/speed in the current setup/distance. Maybe someday I should set up that directional antenna.
do you have a list of items needed?
In the description.
Did you setup with hardware controller?
Yep. Works great. Although if I did it again I would consider getting the 3 in1 router controller and POE switch which is offered! amzn.to/3pF96I3
Why not use a PTP UBNT system?
Wanted to give Omada a try and I'm happy with the results in my shop. Don't necessarily need the PTP. Plus I'm also investigating TP-Links PTP solution as well.
Do you know if I can do all this but with the original starlink router instead of tp link router?
No, if you want to use the TP link access points, I am pretty sure you will need the TP link router. But if you have a Gen 2 Starlink, I think they now have a mesh router you can get?
How did you get power to both eap's at shop and get lan also? When you went back to shop to add power to eap225 how did you correct the problem. since only 1 ethernet port in each device , how did you send lan and power from outdoor eap225 to to indoor eap225 device? You plugged outdoor lan at the shop to in on poe switch and from switch out to inside ceiling eap225? I hope you can understand my question. from outdoor eap ethernet port to lan in on poe switch and from poe switch to out to inside ceiling eap. I bought all the hardware you have but can not get lan and power from outside shop eap225 and to inside shop eap225 at same time. Seems i need an extra ethernet port to get lan from and power to outside eap22e? What am i doing wrong? What did you plug into with ethernet cable you held up and said you had to get power to eap inside shop. I am trying to get comcast internet to 2nd house that can only get 12mbps down from frontier internet provider.
I had to insert one of the POE Adapters that came with the EAP225's. Here is what I did:
Port 1 (Out) of POE Switch connected to EAP 225 inside on ceiling. Port 1 is powered.
Port 5 (In) of POE switch connected to LAN port of POE Injector supplied with EAP 225.
Then connect the POE port of the POE injector to the Outside EAP 225.
Thank you very much. That is what I really wanted to know. So I put outside eap225 on a metal fence post 225 ft ethernet cable from my house. Connected to a PoE, then into omada hardware controller. Mounted it with Proxicast Universal Wall/Pole Mount Adjustable Articulated Bracket for Outdoor Antennas. So I could really zero in on a 2nd outdoor eap225 I stuck on window (brick house) 280 feet from 1st eap225 on post. And with controller the 2 eap's meshed. Kinda on it's own. I wish I knew how it did it. It took like maybe 15 minutes for it to do it. But it works really great. I put 3rd inside eap225 in basement. It also meshed. I get 150 mb down (and more).and 12 mb up. In living room. I have 450 mb down and 12 mb up at my house where the internet originates. So I am really happy how well it works. It started when I watch your Starlink video. Bought the stuff you had purchased and got it all working. Thanks so much for making that video.
@@CorkyLeditt Awesome! It really is easy to get all set up. Plug it in and things start recognizing and working!
I ran ethernet cable straight to the barn. I installed the eap225 inside the barn. I used the port that was included in the box. Connected one port to the wireless antenna and then put my ethernet cable to the other side of the port. Not getting a good signal. Should I put a poe switch instead?
Is the Omada controller necessary for us non tech people. I just installed 2 EAP225 outdoor AP's, 2 EAP615 Wall mount & a EAP610 Ceiling Mount AP in my shop/house but haven't finished the Starlink set up yet. The computer parts looks a little tough. ha ha
You don't need the controller hardware, but at a minimum need the controller software on a PC that is connected to the network. I did this at first but then got the hardware piece in case the computer every crashed or got disconnected. The controller controls the system and allows setup of the network.
I’ve probably missed a comment on this but, isn’t the Ethernet cable from the dish proprietary? How did you plug it into the Omada router? Thanks.
On Gen 1 dishy like i have they use regular ethernet cable and can bypass the supplied router. On Gen 2, you have to purchase the ethernet adapter.
@@OutdoorsEngineer yeah I have the adapter. Didn’t realize you had Gen 1 dish.
Hi Mitch, just curious was your direct bury cable in conduit? I was thinking about going that route as well but was told if I do so, I need to ground it. Thanks-Sarah from the FB Starlink group
I did not bury it in conduit, which I think is why it failed originally, even thought the cable was rated as direct burial. Maybe if I buried it deeper it wouldn't have failed. I honestly don't know much about needing it to be grounded, which certainly is a possibility.
Never run copper between buildings like he did. You will fry all if your equipment with voltage surges and seperate grounds. Just use fiber between buildings.
@@kearneykarting I am afraid that is what I did with my ethernet cables run inside buried grey pvc conduit. i did it 17 years ago and the cables and devices hooked to them (computer and IP cameras) are all still working fine. The ethernet cables go to switches on each side (house and shed).
There is a seperate pvc conduit buried for power from the house to the shed which runs the POE switch in the shed. The power feeds from a breaker in an auxiliary circuit box in the house.
I am not an electrician but Rusty Nails comment got me doing some research on my own outside cable installation.
I would say he greatly over simplified in his response. There are many articles on the web about how to wire ethernet outside above and below ground. You can run into problems if you use shielded twisted pair wiring as compared to unshielded twisted pair wire. You can also have issues if the two buildings connected have separate grounding points (ether from separate mains or having an externally grounded device. If you accidentally setup a ground loop you could get extraneous voltage on your wires.
From what I read on cable sites they recommend using outdoor rated ethernet cables even in conduit (as it can fail at the conduit connections over time due to ground movement or frost heave letting in moisture) or just burying the outdoor rated cable directly. It would seem that most people that bury their cable do not need shielded cable at all (which is required for open air runs) .unless buried power cables are close by. If you do not have separate grounds in the two buildings it also seems to eliminates most issues.
@@jaycahow4667 sounds like everything is on the same ground so you should be fine. I only know what I know because I did run ethernet between my shop and house and they are on different grounds. I couldn't figure out why I kept blowing routers and pretty much anything plugged into my ethernet switches. The seperate ground points is what it was and I have since ran fiber instead.
Your overall performance is limited (mainly by the wireless bridge). Performance wise running the ethernet through a tube to protect it would have been a much better solution than the wireless route (and it would have cost less). You could have used the Starlink router, a set of Moca converters and regular cable tv cable from the house to the shop, Then a much lower cost indoor access point in the shop. This would have cost less and preformed better.
I do understand I would be better off with a hardwire conection, or even a PTP wireless bridge to the shop. But I am extremely happy with just some connection in my shop. And it really is still plenty fast, the connection is solid, decent latency. I'm not gaming, or teleconferencing in the shop.
I had already purchased some conduit to run the wire, but once I discovered Omada, it was a couplete no-brainer The costs I know of doing the hardwire and conduit are as follows:
250' of 1" PVC conduit = $263
Moca Converters: $75 - 170
Coax: ??
Trencher Rental: Estimate $80 - 150
Additional Router: $75-150.
Total Costs: $493 - $733.
This does not include the amount of labor to trench the conduit, install the wiring and routers, back filling, seeding, and blood, sweat, and beers.
Total cost of the Omada system I installed was $580.
So there really is not much savings wise to go hardwire, and the Omada was much easier to install.
I am still thinking of getting myself some PTP wifi-bridges to make that connection and increase my connection in the shop. We shall see.
Dude, Cat5E is the reason why it failed, you should've used cat 6A or CAT 7 cables with a POE 5gbe switch.
Is anyone going to tell him about TP-Link Pharos?
Already aware from a previous comment. Looking into the CPE710 and how I could integrate it with this Omada system.
Why did you use old 5e cable
It is my understanding that 5e is capable of performing/handling the traffic/speeds that we have currently. If I see a need, or if Starlink starts producing Gigabit speeds, I will certainly upgrade to Cat 6.
They'd be no benefit in using anything else.
I would dig a trench and run a network cable, it is must faster, but that is just me.
I almost was going to. I had purchased the conduit. The TP-Link saved me time and I ddn't need the hardwire for fastest latency. I am most likely going to get the TP-LINK CPE170's to make a point to point from the house to the garage.
Yeah driving over the Ethernet without protection would break it 😂. You would've need a concrete tube like the one used in ditch bridges. Or a strong tube so the Ethernet cable doesn't directly feel the weight
Damn. Starlink is so fast
Not all the time.
Mornings are much better that evenings.
But it is much faster (and no cap) than any other rural internet service.
Good luck 😉
ok
I think its a cable need an upgrade from cat 5e to cat 8