Hi @eddiethepaintermiguel8775 - Bona finishing products are only tested for interior use. Any of the sealers and finishes would work well for the interior of the front door (though I'd probably stick to a single component finish - i.e. Bona Mega One); and we'd also recommend to remove the door and lay it flat so that you can apply the system to a horizontal surface to avoid drips and runs. Hope that helps!
Minwax Stain is produced for furniture and not recommended by Bona and many other professional flooring craftsmen (though a lot of oldtimers do use it). A large number of failures have been historically noted with most combinations of sealers and finishes over the top of this product. We'd always recommend that you stick to a single manufacturer's product system to ensure compatibility and the best degree of adhesion. Hope that helps answer your question and gets you the best results on your project. Cheers!
it's unclear when you use traffic hd? All the videos I watch show it being used over unstained natural flooring. Im looking for a slight sheen over a medium brown stain over white oak, and I really dont want to use a product that will look terrible a year down the road. Im not sure what the prefinished floors use but they seem to hold up very well. That's my goal is to get that level of protection over stained floors. Will Traffic HD work or do I need something down first or after Traffic HD?
Hello @Scott-dn1bk - If staining the floor, you've got two choices. Since most stains are "sealer" stains, you could go directly over the top with 2-3 coats of Traffic HD. Or, you could also apply one coat of IntenseSeal (to "pop" the color of the stain a bit more), followed by 2 coats of Traffic HD. Hope that helps!
Hi @indbolwebelieve - Yes, you should always use a sealer prior to applying waterborne finish top-coats, depending on what you're shooting for in regard to the final appearance. Sealer choices could include one coat of any of the Bona DriFast Stain colors (stain/sealer combo); or 1-2 coats of any Bona waterborne sealer (ClearSeal, ClassicSeal, IntenseSeal, AmberSeal, NaturalSeal, NordicSeal); or even 1 coat of DriFast Sealer; followed by 2-3 coats of Bona waterborne finish over the sealer system. Please read the labels of your desired sealer/finish system products to determine proper application tools, application rate, dry/cure times, and interboat abrasion requirements. Hope that helps a bit!
Can you use a roller to apply sealer? Thinking specifically of natural or classic. Not sure I’m comfortable enough with a t bar, and roller seems much more manageable!
Hi @paulkaylariemersma5601 - Absolutely one of my/our favorite ways to apply waterborne sealers is with a Bona Roller! It's the preferred method globally (although we still t-bar a lot here in North America on strip and plank floors). Roll away!
I have three bedrooms coming off a hallway, but the boards run lengthwise into the bedrooms, not crosswise like yours where you can stop at a dry line. What to do?
Hi @geem.5286 - Understand the situation but not sure exactly what the layout looks like. Several possibilities for finishing these out. 1) If any of the bedrooms runs out into the hallway (without continuing into another room directly across) you can finish out into the hallway and then pull a dry lines on either or both sides of the doorway, if needed. 2) If doorways are across from each other then you could a) Finish the bedrooms short of the doorway, on both sides if necessary, pulling a dry line across the entire floor; then jumping in and cutting those back in and finishing out as you come down the hallway; or b) Finish out each bedroom and "fine feather" a dry line about 1/3 the way across the hall (best accomplished with your cut-in pad or a paintbrush); then when finishing out the hallway by itself you'll need to "fine feather" back past these areas toward the doorways to hide the transition and get the proper amount of finish on the floor; or 3) Have two people finishing out the cross-ways bedrooms at the same time; meet in the middle of the hallway and pull a dry line on either or both sides of the doorway, if needed, from there. Hope this makes sense, but it not, please give our tech services team a call at (800) 872-5515. Cheers!
So nice of you to take the time to reply with such a thorough explanation. I'm going to print this out and use it so I can get it right. Thanks so much!@@BonaProfessional
So are you supposed to screen with 220 grit after the first coat of sealer? In the beginning it said no need unless it more than 48 hours what does that mean exactly
Hi @ProvingMyDispute - Two reasons for abrasion: 1) For smoothness (if debris or dust gets in coat), then use 180-240 grit Nets or Diamonds on a Conditioning Pad to smooth; and or 2) For adhesion - but ONLY if more than 48 hours has passed since the last coat was applied. Simply hit it with a 320grit Conditional Pad to ensure good adhesion and you're good to go. Hope that clears it all up. Cheers!
@@ProvingMyDispute You can use whatever grit you'd like but we always recommend the least aggressive needed to get the job done, as we want to limit the amount of sealer/finish that's sanded back off the floor (it doesn't do you any good when it ends up in the vacuum). So, yes, 220 grit would be fine after 24 hours or even 48 hours, but a Conditioning Pad would also work just fine. Hope that helps!
Hi @chadmckillop3880 - There's no need to polish (either manually or by a separate product application) Bona Traffic HD after it has cured. Here's a link to our webpage, showing the best ways to care for your Bona finished floor. Hope this helps! www.bona.com/en-us/homeowner/how-to/
Hi @stevenzembriski6761 - For this go around on the Studio floor, we had already applied a coat of Bona IntenseSeal, followed by two coats of Traffic HD. That's a typical (and minimum) system required for residential floors, as we want at least 3mils of Sealer/Finish on the floor in order to get the performance characteristics that we're expecting. Hope that answers your question. Thanks!
@@BonaProfessional thanks for the reply, I am doing a kitchen floor (red oak) I will strip it down using a drum sander and was thinking using a coat of Bona Naturalseal and then 2 coats of Traffic HD dose that sound good for a kitchen floor? Thanks Steve.
Hello S&S - We love the Bona Roller application results as well; but the t-bar is also a very useful technique to have in your arsenal - especially for large, open area residential, commercial and sport floors! Always good to have more than one way get that beautiful finish down!
There some products I can use for a front door finish ?!!..
Hi @eddiethepaintermiguel8775 - Bona finishing products are only tested for interior use. Any of the sealers and finishes would work well for the interior of the front door (though I'd probably stick to a single component finish - i.e. Bona Mega One); and we'd also recommend to remove the door and lay it flat so that you can apply the system to a horizontal surface to avoid drips and runs. Hope that helps!
@BonaProfessional thanks for the answer.. I really like this product 👌
Can I use hd traffic finish after using a Minwax stain?
Minwax Stain is produced for furniture and not recommended by Bona and many other professional flooring craftsmen (though a lot of oldtimers do use it). A large number of failures have been historically noted with most combinations of sealers and finishes over the top of this product. We'd always recommend that you stick to a single manufacturer's product system to ensure compatibility and the best degree of adhesion. Hope that helps answer your question and gets you the best results on your project. Cheers!
it's unclear when you use traffic hd? All the videos I watch show it being used over unstained natural flooring. Im looking for a slight sheen over a medium brown stain over white oak, and I really dont want to use a product that will look terrible a year down the road. Im not sure what the prefinished floors use but they seem to hold up very well. That's my goal is to get that level of protection over stained floors. Will Traffic HD work or do I need something down first or after Traffic HD?
Hello @Scott-dn1bk - If staining the floor, you've got two choices. Since most stains are "sealer" stains, you could go directly over the top with 2-3 coats of Traffic HD. Or, you could also apply one coat of IntenseSeal (to "pop" the color of the stain a bit more), followed by 2 coats of Traffic HD. Hope that helps!
Hi, should i seal my raw wood stairs with a wood sealer before applying traffic HD? And what kind of sealer? ,thanks!
Hi @indbolwebelieve - Yes, you should always use a sealer prior to applying waterborne finish top-coats, depending on what you're shooting for in regard to the final appearance. Sealer choices could include one coat of any of the Bona DriFast Stain colors (stain/sealer combo); or 1-2 coats of any Bona waterborne sealer (ClearSeal, ClassicSeal, IntenseSeal, AmberSeal, NaturalSeal, NordicSeal); or even 1 coat of DriFast Sealer; followed by 2-3 coats of Bona waterborne finish over the sealer system. Please read the labels of your desired sealer/finish system products to determine proper application tools, application rate, dry/cure times, and interboat abrasion requirements. Hope that helps a bit!
Can you use a roller to apply sealer? Thinking specifically of natural or classic. Not sure I’m comfortable enough with a t bar, and roller seems much more manageable!
Hi @paulkaylariemersma5601 - Absolutely one of my/our favorite ways to apply waterborne sealers is with a Bona Roller! It's the preferred method globally (although we still t-bar a lot here in North America on strip and plank floors). Roll away!
I have three bedrooms coming off a hallway, but the boards run lengthwise into the bedrooms, not crosswise like yours where you can stop at a dry line. What to do?
Hi @geem.5286 - Understand the situation but not sure exactly what the layout looks like. Several possibilities for finishing these out. 1) If any of the bedrooms runs out into the hallway (without continuing into another room directly across) you can finish out into the hallway and then pull a dry lines on either or both sides of the doorway, if needed. 2) If doorways are across from each other then you could a) Finish the bedrooms short of the doorway, on both sides if necessary, pulling a dry line across the entire floor; then jumping in and cutting those back in and finishing out as you come down the hallway; or b) Finish out each bedroom and "fine feather" a dry line about 1/3 the way across the hall (best accomplished with your cut-in pad or a paintbrush); then when finishing out the hallway by itself you'll need to "fine feather" back past these areas toward the doorways to hide the transition and get the proper amount of finish on the floor; or 3) Have two people finishing out the cross-ways bedrooms at the same time; meet in the middle of the hallway and pull a dry line on either or both sides of the doorway, if needed, from there.
Hope this makes sense, but it not, please give our tech services team a call at (800) 872-5515. Cheers!
So nice of you to take the time to reply with such a thorough explanation. I'm going to print this out and use it so I can get it right. Thanks so much!@@BonaProfessional
So are you supposed to screen with 220 grit after the first coat of sealer? In the beginning it said no need unless it more than 48 hours what does that mean exactly
Hi @ProvingMyDispute - Two reasons for abrasion: 1) For smoothness (if debris or dust gets in coat), then use 180-240 grit Nets or Diamonds on a Conditioning Pad to smooth; and or 2) For adhesion - but ONLY if more than 48 hours has passed since the last coat was applied. Simply hit it with a 320grit Conditional Pad to ensure good adhesion and you're good to go. Hope that clears it all up. Cheers!
@@BonaProfessional is it okay for 220 grit abrasion after 24 hours? So if I wait 48 hours I should only use a maroon pad to buff?
@@ProvingMyDispute You can use whatever grit you'd like but we always recommend the least aggressive needed to get the job done, as we want to limit the amount of sealer/finish that's sanded back off the floor (it doesn't do you any good when it ends up in the vacuum). So, yes, 220 grit would be fine after 24 hours or even 48 hours, but a Conditioning Pad would also work just fine. Hope that helps!
Hi There, Do you polish the traffic HD after its cured?
Hi @chadmckillop3880 - There's no need to polish (either manually or by a separate product application) Bona Traffic HD after it has cured. Here's a link to our webpage, showing the best ways to care for your Bona finished floor. Hope this helps!
www.bona.com/en-us/homeowner/how-to/
So this was a bare floor with only 2 coats of traffic hd? No Bona classic sealer?
Hi @stevenzembriski6761 - For this go around on the Studio floor, we had already applied a coat of Bona IntenseSeal, followed by two coats of Traffic HD. That's a typical (and minimum) system required for residential floors, as we want at least 3mils of Sealer/Finish on the floor in order to get the performance characteristics that we're expecting. Hope that answers your question. Thanks!
@@BonaProfessional thanks for the reply, I am doing a kitchen floor (red oak) I will strip it down using a drum sander and was thinking using a coat of Bona Naturalseal and then 2 coats of Traffic HD dose that sound good for a kitchen floor?
Thanks Steve.
Why don't you offer your customers a smaller container for touch up? Your forcing us to spend $141 to refinish seven square inches.
Awesome video guys - roller best than T BAR
Hello S&S - We love the Bona Roller application results as well; but the t-bar is also a very useful technique to have in your arsenal - especially for large, open area residential, commercial and sport floors! Always good to have more than one way get that beautiful finish down!