Getting perfect epoxy inlays in wood with a CNC
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2020
- It's not easy to make crisp coloured epoxy inlays in wood as the fluid epoxy tends to bleed into the wood grain.
I've tried a lot of methods and found the one that gives the best results for me. Here it is!
My CNC is an Aureus 3X from Euro Makers, similar to a Shapeoko or an X-Carve: euro-makers.com/fr/381-cnc-au...
3.175 15° tapered bit: www.aliexpress.com/item/40004...
2mm straight bit: amzn.to/33e6q56
Clear epoxy: amzn.to/2Zv0tjl
5-minute epoxy: amzn.to/3hj8Vs9 - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
Thank you, Stephan. I found a very simple way of preventing bleed using epoxy inlays. After engraving just coat with Polycrylic(R) or other clear coating. Use a small brush to coat crevice walls. After it dries (2 hours), fill with epoxy resin. I have been using this technique without fail.
Nice video. Very clear. I have been creating quite large epoxy resin inlaya and have found normal PVA glue works fine even on pine. I cut the shape/pattern, then paint with PVC let it dry then add resin. I also use a drum sander to do the rough sanding followed by orbital sanding to 400 grit.
Thank you so much. I am new and just made some v carve boards and ordered some epoxy. Now I am confident how to get the best result. Appreciate the speed and clarity as well. So many of these, I have to play at 1.5 or 1.75 speed or I would fall asleep. This was perfect!
Huge difference between first and second pieces. Thanks for the tip!
Simple but very effective solution. Thank you!
Wow i like this
U explained very clearly
Thanks thanks thanks
This was helpful. I have sealed for painting in the past, but I just ordered my first craft epoxy and color pigments so I can do a firemen's crest for my son. I like your idea of turning the piece upside down on a towel to clear the caving.
Effectivement il y a une énorme différence de résultat entre les deux méthodes. Super tuto et résultat superbe comme d’habitude. Bravo et merci 😊
Ingenious ! 🐸
Perfect, thanks very much.
Just learned the "bleed" way on some concept pieces. Great, quick, and to the point solution. All future credit will go your way my friend!!
Thanks!
@Stephan I missed your "24 hours later" image on the screen. The video was very good and shows the "better" way to fill with epoxy. Thank you
Love the technique and use it myself, but hate the bleed through into the wood. What I do is I shellac over the project after carving but before resin. This seals the wood and doesn’t let the color from the resin deep into the rest of the grain so when you sand it down it’s perfect
Yeah same here Never fails and quick as.
Yeah I was just thinking the same. Why not use shellac sealer so you can stain afterwords without fighting all that epoxy
I take a rubber bondo squeegee and remove the excess off the top making sanding much faster and easier
Very good
The video is very informative, thank you :-), but I got a question the sanding dulls the shine of the epoxy raisin right? here you only applied the oil but I saw in other videos you have to apply another layer of epoxy OR keep sanding the epoxy with finer sanding grits like 3000-4000!
I seal with clear shellac. dries in ten minutes and you're good to go. If you want it to penetrate a little further into the grain you can thin in it by 10 percent with methyle hydrate. Also, CA works really good to. Cheers!
I did not get good results but I didn't try the thinning trick. It's now on my To-Do list! :)
you could also clear coat with simple, cheap spray paint, let it dry and then do the epoxy pour. sometimes, if you want a border on your design, you can spray clear, then the color of your choice for outline, then a color similar to the epoxy for the BG, then the epoxy.
Hi Andres. Yes spray paint worked in my tests but I had to put on several coats because it was thinner than the epoxy and required more sanding as it didn't fill the grain completely.
Have you ever tried a cellulose sealer? I've been struggling with "bleeding" and wondered what a sealer would do. This method looks fantastic! Thanks!
I think a sealer would work and probably dry faster than epoxy. But for some unknown reason to me I have a hard time finding some here in Belgium and most Amazon shops won't ship it here. Only doubt I have is how good the epoxy would adhere to the sealant. To be tested! :)
@@stephanforseilles Wow! Cool! I used a Mylands Cellulose Sanding Sealer and I love it, great for lathe work. I will attempt a test and get back to you! How would the adherence to sealer be different than to epoxy, I wonder. Thanks for chatting!
Great tutorial. Thanks! I wonder if a spray coat of lacquer or polyurethane would achieve the same goal of sealing the grain before applying the final epoxy.
Dan Lewis I've tried both and they work but not as good as epoxy. They're not thick enough. It seals but it doesn't fill the grain. I still get a bit of bleeding.
I have some total boat penetrating epoxy. Might try that to seal it. Thanks for the tips.
Thank you, been struggling with epoxy inlays watch many videos on you TH-cam ,use this, use that, One thing I have learned that there is many ways to skin a cat, but never seen the upside down trick great idea. Not sur if you get chance to answer this one but is it better to sand the epoxy it skim over the top with cnc surfacing bit or will it depend on the size of the job you are doing?. but anyway thanks.
Thanks. What I've started doing is using a 1mm Start Depth (so my design is 'buried' 1mm) then when everything is set, skim 1mm with a flat bit. After that, sanding is a breeze!
You can also use sanding sealer prior your final epoxy to stop the bleeding as well . It's not very expensive and might help save s few bucks on epoxy in the long run.
Not sure why but sealer is super hard to find here. I've tried various varnishes but it doesn't work that well.
I've read the Sanding sealer is just a 2lb cut of shellac
@@chrislamoureux5500 Unfortunately I can't find Shellac here neither. Search on Amazon.fr only return cosmetics for women...
@@chrislamoureux5500 it's shellac without wax
Does it work on marble also
Marble not being porous as wood I think you probably can make the inlay directly. But IU've never tried! :)
Dear Stephan. Thx for epoxy tutorial but I see something interesting. I see V carve bit is not really V-bit it is kind of V shaped spiral bit. Can you share type and possibly source/ Merci. Marek
OK I see in description Tapered 15 deg bit OK my fault.
Hello. Here is the bit range I've used in most videos: www.aliexpress.com/item/33034695014.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.6d434c4dLH88s1
There is a product specifically for this, and it's much faster than watching epoxy dry. It's called sanding sealer. It's critical to seal the wood before using epoxy especially in softer woods or contrasting colors. You can also use it on your whole project, then sand. It fills the wood pores and provides a solid surface which can be polished to near glass.
I'd love to test it but it seems very difficult to find around here (Belgium).
Josh, what sealer do you use?
@@malcolmrandolph4090 I just pick up some Varathane from the local big box store next to the wood glue. It's all I've ever really used, so I can't compare it to anything else.
@@joshmartin8856 Do you ever have problems with adherence?
@@stephanforseilles As posted in another comment, you can get shellac crystals and dissolve them in alcohol (I use isopropyl). Works great as sanding sealer and is non toxic (as long you don't use methanol). At least Uraltone sells shellac and IPA in Europe, probably many more.
Sadly, Myland's Cellulose Sealer didn't do the trick. Maybe I need to find another, different sealer and try again. If I could upload a pic here, I'd show you. :( Damn... Did it on white birch, and it bleed like a stuck pig.
All you really need to do is soak the wood with an oil finish, let it dry before routing, and use a mix of epoxy resin and ebony powder for your "inlay".
Hi Tim. I was fearing that epoxy would not adhere correctly to oil. Have tou tried it?
@@stephanforseilles You have to let the oil dry for 24 hours, of course. But yeah, epoxy adheres to almost anything.
no