@@SamMacyDesigns Just ordered a CNC so ZERO experience here ....and glad I saw this comment because I saw the cardboard, and couldn't figure out WHY you did that. Can you explain?? (I DO know why setting zero is important. Just couldn't figure out why you'd do it on the cardboard and not the work piece). Thanks
Thank you and great tip! I'll try that next time. The CNC I have is a I2R8 and I think it's the same as the Axiom 8. I got it a few years ago and I'm super happy with it! Seems like it's a "pro-sumer" machine
I was amazed to see you used oil based polyurethane to seal the wood around the pour. Does that work well for you? I’ve seen many videos where woodworkers will use the actual epoxy as the sealer. Have you tried that method?
Hey Sam, great video. Question first time seeing the sander used to take off epoxy instead of cnc machine. What sandpaper are you using and is that because it was a light epoxy pour. Thanks again.
I used 150 grit up to 320 but I think if I had to do it again I would heat it up with a torch and scrape it off with a razor and then hit it with 320! The sand paper clogged pretty bad….it became a bit gooey so in hindsight I don’t know that I would recommend taking the bulk of it off with sand paper 😂
Thank you! It's a mica powder that you color resin with, this one is the color "pearl" . I think i originally just typed in "white mica powder" on amazon and found it. If I had to do it again I would add a bunch more to make it less transparent!
Nice job on the video. Did you settle on a better epoxy for these inlays? You mentioned looking for something with a longer cure time to reduce bubbles.
Thank you! And yes I did, I found a slow cure epoxy from total boat that cures up to 3" thick which means it take a longggg time to cure. It worked great, no bubbles and I added about double the amount of pigment to the mix
Thank you! Here’s the link to the apron, I love that thing and it’s super affordable! huckberry.com/store/readywares/category/p/70072-tool-apron?htm_adsource=shopping&htm_admedium=googlep&htm_adcampaign=shopping-all-acquisition&htm_adcontent=acquisition&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyOCK4e6R-AIVdzizAB3AhQGWEAQYBSABEgKiM_D_BwE
Thanks! The tool path I used was just something I drew on my IPad and I used an Amana Tool RC-1142 from Tools today for the carving portion of the build. Hope that helps!
Tabletop epoxy are usually formulated for a deep pour. So when you use this type of epoxy for a shallow pour, it either takes a much longer time to cure or remains tacky unless you apply external heat. What you need is a low viscosity ( to prevent bubbles) shallow pour epoxy.
I have both types of epoxy and this one said use for anything 1” or less. I also have a deep pour epoxy which can cure up to 3”. I think I must have screwed up the mixture on this or something
I have been hobby CNCing for about a year and a half. That card board cutout to set your zero is brillant. I will need to remember this.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful for you! Happy CNCing 😃
@@SamMacyDesigns Just ordered a CNC so ZERO experience here ....and glad I saw this comment because I saw the cardboard, and couldn't figure out WHY you did that. Can you explain?? (I DO know why setting zero is important. Just couldn't figure out why you'd do it on the cardboard and not the work piece). Thanks
I am jealous of your shop, very ,very nice.
Thank you very much! Took me about 5 years to save up and put it together
Your shop is awesome
Thank you! I'll be doing a shop tour in the next few weeks so keep your eyes peeled for that 😀
Great vid. Well produced. And love my track saw.. I need a short track though.....liked your cardboard reference trick for the cnc.
Thanks 👍 The short track for the track saw is super handy, great for crosscutting boards
Those look great! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
The boards look great. A small propane (or butane) torch or even a heat gun carefully waved over the epoxy will get the bubbles out. What CNC is that?
Thank you and great tip! I'll try that next time. The CNC I have is a I2R8 and I think it's the same as the Axiom 8. I got it a few years ago and I'm super happy with it! Seems like it's a "pro-sumer" machine
I was amazed to see you used oil based polyurethane to seal the wood around the pour. Does that work well for you? I’ve seen many videos where woodworkers will use the actual epoxy as the sealer. Have you tried that method?
Nice work my brother!
Thank you! Cheers!
Just what I wanted to see. Thanks for sharing!
Glad you enjoyed!! Cheers!
Hey Sam, great video. Question first time seeing the sander used to take off epoxy instead of cnc machine. What sandpaper are you using and is that because it was a light epoxy pour. Thanks again.
I used 150 grit up to 320 but I think if I had to do it again I would heat it up with a torch and scrape it off with a razor and then hit it with 320! The sand paper clogged pretty bad….it became a bit gooey so in hindsight I don’t know that I would recommend taking the bulk of it off with sand paper 😂
That turned out awsome dude what was that that you put in the Resin
Thank you! It's a mica powder that you color resin with, this one is the color "pearl" . I think i originally just typed in "white mica powder" on amazon and found it. If I had to do it again I would add a bunch more to make it less transparent!
Where did you get your appron?
huckberry.com/store/readywares/category/p/70072-tool-apron
absolutely love it! and for 55 bucks you cant go wrong
Nice job on the video. Did you settle on a better epoxy for these inlays? You mentioned looking for something with a longer cure time to reduce bubbles.
Thank you! And yes I did, I found a slow cure epoxy from total boat that cures up to 3" thick which means it take a longggg time to cure. It worked great, no bubbles and I added about double the amount of pigment to the mix
What was the "sealer" you painted on prior to carving?
That's called "brushing lacquer" I would recommend using a shellac though, its a lot less smelly and volatile!
@@SamMacyDesigns thank you.
Great job! Is the epoxy food safe?
It is, and so is the finished I used. Rubio Monocoat
How deep is the vcarve
I would say 1/8” at the deepest, it sort of depends on the width of the line but I used a 60 degree v-bit to try to make it as deep as I could
What was the finish you used.
Rubio Monocoat but I’ve since switched to Odies Oil
Great project as always, keep up the good work Sam. Btw, where did you get that apron?
Thank you! Here’s the link to the apron, I love that thing and it’s super affordable! huckberry.com/store/readywares/category/p/70072-tool-apron?htm_adsource=shopping&htm_admedium=googlep&htm_adcampaign=shopping-all-acquisition&htm_adcontent=acquisition&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyOCK4e6R-AIVdzizAB3AhQGWEAQYBSABEgKiM_D_BwE
@@SamMacyDesigns Just ordered one. Thanks a bunch man!
@@WildPitchDesigns No problem! I hope it works for you!
@@SamMacyDesigns I just ordered one too
Awesome video! What tool path and bit did you use for the carve?
Thanks! The tool path I used was just something I drew on my IPad and I used an Amana Tool RC-1142 from Tools today for the carving portion of the build. Hope that helps!
Tabletop epoxy are usually formulated for a deep pour. So when you use this type of epoxy for a shallow pour, it either takes a much longer time to cure or remains tacky unless you apply external heat. What you need is a low viscosity ( to prevent bubbles) shallow pour epoxy.
I have both types of epoxy and this one said use for anything 1” or less. I also have a deep pour epoxy which can cure up to 3”. I think I must have screwed up the mixture on this or something
Tried to stay tuned but irritating music loops just made it too hard.
They are too short for charcuterie boards, they should be about 20 to 24 long but good job.
I think the maple ones I did are around there but I haven't heard that before, thanks for the info!