This is the first video I saw from you and it was reaaaally good! I made two cuttingboards with engraving so far and I want to do more! Your tips were very helpful! Thank you so much! 😊
If you produced a short vid showing how you built your simple yet effective router table, and notated in the video the sizes / dimensions of each piece, I think it would be very much appreciated and utilized / viewed. Also, a short vid showing the simple construction of your 1/4" acrylic base & handles for the trim router would also do very well. The video above is well made, and appreciated, thankyou.
Old Dave 100 is another channel that is all about free hand routing. One of the projects was an epoxy inlay cutting board. Art Resin is an epoxy brand that is food safe that he used.
Cool video and great results. Steve Ramsey just posted a short about using the backing of a sheet of labels and printing on that to transfer an image to wood. Worked great and would scale up nicely too.
Looks great! I've had the issue where after sanding off the excess epoxy that some of the epoxy/pigment leaches into the wood surrounding the engraving in little slivers. Is there something i'm doing wrong? Perhaps a seal coat to prevent?
Good information but you said most of us do not have the drum sander so it would have been nice to see you use the hand sander to see how much work it is. The drum sander made short work of cleaning up the epoxy but for those of us beginners how long would it take and what grits would you use with the hand sander?
Here’s a link to when I cleaned it up with that Bosch Sander: instagram.com/reel/CJEbASkj7YB/? Just used some 80 grit and then went through normal grit progression. One board just took a minute with the “turbo” mode.
Usually just 220. Some go much higher. Depends on how much epoxy you have. Lots of variables with the epoxy and color over time. Sanding usually doesn’t impact color though.
I have a jig that holds the work piece to the wall. Bought this cheap little projector for twenty bucks that projects a piece of paper on the wall. Trace and carve.
Great video and Information! I really like your content! But not sure you catch it but you say uh and um alot! Until I noticed it didn't seem so bad but now I can't unhear it. But don't listen to me just figured I'd let ya know. Still a fan!!
I can definitely tell! Earlier videos it was used alot more. I binged a ton of videos so I had more time than most people. I remember getting reamed by a teacher during an oral book report. I think that's how I noticed it. You're doing awesome man! Wasn't trying to be negative at all!! Keep up the good work!! Go Hawks!
@@SixEightWoodworks I have done many signs like you do by free hand. I print the image/logo and then place carbon paper under neath and trace it out with a pen or pencil. You get a really defined line once you remove the carbon paper and image/logo. You should also look into a plunge router so that it makes transitions from letter to letter easier. Keep up the great work.
@@SixEightWoodworks I have a lot of nerve problems in one of my arms and sanding is something that just lights it up. I know there’s no way around hand sanding and orbital sanding. However would it be worth it to change the paper during each batch? Maybe 80, 100 & 150 on the drum and orbit then 220 and 300ish orbit only?
I hear you. I’ve had carpal tunnel release surgery and I still have issues. I’ve tried the same thing. But the lines still show if I don’t use the orbital at 80. The Bosch unit made a huge difference though, or a Festool/Mirka.
IM curious, are you not concerned that someone could chip off some epoxy and getting that in there mouth, and they make a special epoxy that is food safe. Im always on the look out for videos that could possible do harm just in case you were not aware, not trying to intrude on your video. You boards look great!
Great video! To put the template on - how about blue (or green) tape layer, then the template and then a lyer of clear packing tape. The clear packing tape won't let the template move as you carve. When you're done, peel up the blue (or green) tape and the packing tape comes with it. There's no glue from the packing tape left on the board.
For your technique with the blue tape underneath, I've you cut out where you're going to carve with a Stanley knife or a scalpel the paper won't kick up. Also found its better to use a smaller bit, so for what you did a 1/4" would be better, hog out the middle first, then go back up to your line remembering to go in the right direction. Good video though, will be subbing!
This is the first video I saw from you and it was reaaaally good! I made two cuttingboards with engraving so far and I want to do more! Your tips were very helpful! Thank you so much! 😊
So appreciate that! Have fun customizing!
Great video. I noticed you are from my area. Washington. I live in Marysville. Go Hawks and Mariners. Thank you.
Nice video lotsa info and quick thanks for posting .
Another solid video. Good addition!
Much appreciated!
Carbon paper from office supply store works well for transfer. I use all the time to transfer patterns for my carving.
I knew there was something out there!
@@SixEightWoodworks before your time 😉
If you produced a short vid showing how you built your simple yet effective router table, and notated in the video the sizes / dimensions of each piece, I think it would be very much appreciated and utilized / viewed. Also, a short vid showing the simple construction of your 1/4" acrylic base & handles for the trim router would also do very well. The video above is well made, and appreciated, thankyou.
Old Dave 100 is another channel that is all about free hand routing. One of the projects was an epoxy inlay cutting board. Art Resin is an epoxy brand that is food safe that he used.
Very informative - well presented, thank you.
Appreciate it!
Awesome tutorial!! The boards came out amazing!
Appreciate all your great products!
Complimenti è un bel lavoro, anche elegante
Is the face shield shatter resistant or impact rated, my safety glasses always fog up
Any tips for not having the epoxy bleed into the surrounding grain? Seems to always happen with my cutting board inlays. Thanks!
Brush on a light coat of clear first. That will seal the grain first. Once that dries, sand it off then put on the died epoxy.
Sorry if I missed it but what wood are you using? Thanks.
Cool video and great results. Steve Ramsey just posted a short about using the backing of a sheet of labels and printing on that to transfer an image to wood. Worked great and would scale up nicely too.
Great tip for sure!
Great video!
Another great video! Thank you! Quick question, which version of the epoxy do you use? Slow, medium, or fast?
Since he is doing a shallow cut, something like a table top epoxy makes the most since.
Looks great! I've had the issue where after sanding off the excess epoxy that some of the epoxy/pigment leaches into the wood surrounding the engraving in little slivers. Is there something i'm doing wrong? Perhaps a seal coat to prevent?
You got it. Flood it with finish before to seal the grain. Otherwise it can definitely get absorbed beyond the engraving.
How high do you do with your sanding grits with the inlay? Do you go higher in the epoxy area than the rest of the board?
Great video!
I don’t. On a river table, or something with more epoxy I might. But I just stop at 220 or maybe 320.
What don't do you use? I can't seem to find it
Use carbon paper under the template to transfer lines.
Good information but you said most of us do not have the drum sander so it would have been nice to see you use the hand sander to see how much work it is. The drum sander made short work of cleaning up the epoxy but for those of us beginners how long would it take and what grits would you use with the hand sander?
Here’s a link to when I cleaned it up with that Bosch Sander: instagram.com/reel/CJEbASkj7YB/? Just used some 80 grit and then went through normal grit progression. One board just took a minute with the “turbo” mode.
Have you ever used carbon paper to transfer your design onto the wood. Works well for me.
Thanks, David S.
What final grit do you sand down to before applying whatever finish oil? Does sanding the epoxy dull (whiten) the color?
Usually just 220. Some go much higher. Depends on how much epoxy you have. Lots of variables with the epoxy and color over time. Sanding usually doesn’t impact color though.
Hey Nick, Do you have a picture or file for an Everett Police Department Badge, or know someone who might? (working on a Flag)Thanks Larry
I have a jig that holds the work piece to the wall. Bought this cheap little projector for twenty bucks that projects a piece of paper on the wall. Trace and carve.
Big fan of using a projector. Will have to look into the smaller models.
Great video and Information! I really like your content! But not sure you catch it but you say uh and um alot! Until I noticed it didn't seem so bad but now I can't unhear it. But don't listen to me just figured I'd let ya know. Still a fan!!
Yeah, it’s such a bad habit and drives me crazy. Working on it!
I can definitely tell! Earlier videos it was used alot more. I binged a ton of videos so I had more time than most people. I remember getting reamed by a teacher during an oral book report. I think that's how I noticed it. You're doing awesome man! Wasn't trying to be negative at all!! Keep up the good work!! Go Hawks!
To what grit do you sand the epoxy to?
Awesome Video..
I only see one thing wrong.. Your Sander is missing a Seattle Kraken sticker..!!
Go Kraken..!!
😆 Kraken sticker went up a few months ago! 🦑
Great video. I subscribed to your channel. You can also use carbon paper to trace out the image onto the board. I have been doing that for years.
I knew there was something out there!
@@SixEightWoodworks I have done many signs like you do by free hand. I print the image/logo and then place carbon paper under neath and trace it out with a pen or pencil. You get a really defined line once you remove the carbon paper and image/logo. You should also look into a plunge router so that it makes transitions from letter to letter easier. Keep up the great work.
Nice!
Thank you!
what type of machine and brand of machine , give me complete machine name and model
What Grit sandpaper do you usually run on your drum sander?
I usually keep 80 on all the time
@@SixEightWoodworks
I have a lot of nerve problems in one of my arms and sanding is something that just lights it up. I know there’s no way around hand sanding and orbital sanding. However would it be worth it to change the paper during each batch? Maybe 80, 100 & 150 on the drum and orbit then 220 and 300ish orbit only?
I hear you. I’ve had carpal tunnel release surgery and I still have issues. I’ve tried the same thing. But the lines still show if I don’t use the orbital at 80. The Bosch unit made a huge difference though, or a Festool/Mirka.
I have been told by an epoxy expert that clear epoxy is FEA food contact approved. However, once you add pigment it is no longer approved.
IM curious, are you not concerned that someone could chip off some epoxy and getting that in there mouth, and they make a special epoxy that is food safe. Im always on the look out for videos that could possible do harm just in case you were not aware, not trying to intrude on your video. You boards look great!
Yep, talk about it at the end of the video.
What does JME stand for?
It’s for my elementary school I teach at. Gifts for volunteers and retirees.
@@SixEightWoodworks Oh, that's awesome!
Great video!
To put the template on - how about blue (or green) tape layer, then the template and then a lyer of clear packing tape.
The clear packing tape won't let the template move as you carve.
When you're done, peel up the blue (or green) tape and the packing tape comes with it. There's no glue from the packing tape left on the board.
I'm definitely going to try that
carbon paper might show up better
Use charcoal it shows up
Another entertaining and informative video. Awesome Work!!!
Thank you so much!
For your technique with the blue tape underneath, I've you cut out where you're going to carve with a Stanley knife or a scalpel the paper won't kick up. Also found its better to use a smaller bit, so for what you did a 1/4" would be better, hog out the middle first, then go back up to your line remembering to go in the right direction. Good video though, will be subbing!
I put clear packing tape over the paper. It tends to keep the paper from ripping out