Wonderful videos. Great for the beginer and the seasoned vet. I am a vet of 31 years and also use a 12 inch atlas at home. Much smaller than my 27 inch x 80 inch romi lathe for work. Your presentations of the basics is great and a joy to see. I run the machine shop operations for a water and sewer company that serves 1.8 million people. Most of our machines now are cnc. Thanks
Tubal Cain - Once again, another great video. Thank you for your efforts. From the comments you can see that we all appreciate them and are learning much from you.
I to would like to see a video of more detail of how you made the taper attchment. I have been looking at your videos for a while now and think its about time I mentioned how much I enjoy them and how much I have learned. Great work Mr Peterson!!! Thank you.
"There's not much to see when I'm boring!". I had a little chuckle when you said that. I've learned so much from your videos. I never find them 'boring'. I wondered if you ever did or demonstrated ball end turning?
I just found you and these two videos, thank you for the demonstration, you answered my question! I have two atlas/craftsmen lathes that I have been using for decades.
the style of tool but that you ground for this video is my favorite favorite favorite period depending on some of the angles he use you can take a hell of a lot of material off with a really nice finish with that design. I really want to make this attachment
Hey wanted to say thanks for doing the “Turning Tapers...” video. I just finished making some B&S#9 to Jacobs 2 & 3 tapers using the dial indicator trick. They work great. My mill has a B&S #9 spindle and tooling is kinda tough to find for it. Now I can make my own.
I just figured out that the thing on back of my lathe is a tapper attachment from looking at old diagrams of it. Now I got a rough idea how it works, thanks for the videos.
Wonderful video, thanks for sharing. This would be useful for turning barrel contours, although I can see how on longer work lateral deflection could become a problem. Might need to incorporate a follower rest onto the compound slide attachment to to provide off-side support of the work.
Just a thought, as you mentioned, you would lose some precision between the inner and outer tapers by switching the guidebar from one side to the other, but it seems to me you could reverse the lathe head direction and use a boring bar that cuts on the back side of the inner taper to avoid changing your guide bar at all. Thanks again for all your awsome content. I bought a 1917 ish Morris 18 inch engine lathe, and it's mostly your fault.
I found some plans online like this that are useful although my carriage has enough length to cut most standard arbors. I decided if I added a power feed option it could cut smoothly and avoid all the extra hoopla built in the back side that has to be connected and disconnected when I want to taper cut. I machined a perfect fitting mt3 arbor last night from 17-4ph. It’s going to be a sliding thread holder for 69mm round metric dies. I don’t even use the thread option on my lathe since many of the threads I cut are out of range of the machine any way so it’s easier to use a tailstock adapter and put it away when I’m done without doing any gear changes, etc... After graduating to a larger thread diameter needed for certain parts I decided i may as well make a larger version of what I had since nobody makes one beyond the 1.25” diameter dies. As long as I can make r8, mt series, and so on I see no need to build a carriage extension at this time. I wanted power anyways in case I convert to Cnc some day then I can use it as a 3 axis setup.
I do that. Set the compound to 29 and a half degrees instead of 90 degrees for simple turning. The tricky part is you can't use the cross slide to pull the tool away from the work. You must use the compound to do that. That means you must remember what setting the compound dial was when you pulled it away at the end of the cut. Then you reset it and dial in for the next cut. I leave the half nuts engaged on the lead screw and use the forward-stop-reverse lever to return to the start.
Lyle, Thank you once again for sharing your wisdom. I never grow tired of learning something new from your videos. I know your passion comes from the heart, I believe it does from all of us who follow you. I have watched all of your videos on indexing and particularly more so your videos on gear cutting. As technical as it may be, you still managed to keep it simple and basic. I am however perplexed on another application that involves indexing. I did purchase the "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend and found it so helpful. I can't begin to describe how informative of a book it is. Thank you for sharing th as that book. Getting back to my point, I was hoping to find information on making chain sprockets. I have thought about it heavily and came to the conclusion that sprockets are just as complex as gears. Any resources out there that you know of. I was thinking of making 530 chain sprockets. Not sure if you have ever took a try at making a chain sprocket.... it would make a great video I feel because I haven't found one. Thank you again.
thanks. I never made a sprocket, but I believe machinerys handboo has a section on it. They will be no easier than gears. I think they also require special cutters.
There is a setscrew on the side of the alum. piece. It pushes against a brass plug machined at 60 deg. It in turn pushes against the crossslide dovetail.
Very interesting and helpful very well explained. I see you use the old style tool post. I want to get one for my lathe but I keep getting told not to because they are junk and not accurate enough. I presently hae the turret type that came with the lathe.
Would you please make a video of you making a taper attachment and include measurements. I’m a small shop and can’t afford to buy one off line but I have the tools to make one.
Mery Christmas ! I enjoy all your videos great to see people like you sharing there experiences Today I was with new project and I wanted to turn 9mm shaft 6" long to 8mm OD 2.5" then go down to 5 mm OD to the rest of it.. I tried fallow rest but didn't go right! I am using dead center and 4 jaw chuck to get close TIR as .0005 I am going to ask all experienced people to see what I can get!Any idea will more appreciate ! Thank you OZ
I don't know if any body else has remarked it. But if you set the boring bar facing down you can cut the internal taper with out moving the taper attachment.
Hi Joe. Thanks for watching. I made the taper attachment. I roughly copied the original atlas one. Not too hard to make. There are no plans--I just worked off the cuff. SORRY, cannot make drawings --too time consuming. pete
The shaft is small and it's 6" long, so when I start taking even a small cut will flex and cause warp !! The 8mm half is easy but the rest of 5mm is difficult to keep it without flexing ! If I can make it within .001 I will be happy! I used fallow rest but it's not working because it has two different ODs, the shaft I need to make should have 8 mm OD to go inside High RPM Rc heli motor and drive gear pinion that accept 5mm shaft and drive the tail rotor too! So it need to be tight on TIR to prevent Vibration !Thank you for your helpI apprecieate it.Oz
@skyrocketpuke I guess you could also attach a dial gauge to the carriage and rest it against the taper attachment (or the cross slide). Then run carriage as far as it will go, take readings at each and and do some simple maths to work out the angle...
nice job in explaining how things work :) you mentioned in the previous video how you can set the angle by the use of a sine bar. do you have any video or know of any showing that? if i had to imagine how it's done it would seem a bit of a pain to get it all together
Why, when you were cutting the external taper in the beginning of Part 2, did you use a dog and center on the spindle side. Why not just use the chuck or a even a collet chuck? Is it because of an issue of pressure or accuracy? Great two-parter!
When I got my craftsman atlas metal lathe it came with a taper attachment bar on the back but not the attachment that goes to the cross slide. So now that I no how I'm gonna make a pool cue out of alluminum. Or try anyway. Thank you for the info❤
@mrpete222 I hadn't either so I had to have it. It is really difficult to get the twist out and level but seems to work well for a 1937 craftsman atlas 12" only problem I've seen is the length of the carriage screw seems to move and wear apron parts rather quickly from what I can tell. Been nice if they have given that a little more thought
Hi guys. I was machining some shaft on geminis650 lathe machine. There is a taper on shafts how do l rectify it . I tried to adjust the tail stock but it's still coming out on either from the center or forwards the chuck.
Could you have bored your internal taper without changing the taper attachment (for an exact match) by cutting on the back side with the boring bar rolled upside down?
Hi tubalcain. Love your videos. I have a 1948 atlas craftsman lathe like yours. I am saving the money for your lathe series on flash drive. Question did you build your taper mechanism or buy it? I've seen them on ebay but they are kind of pricey and yours looks like it wouldn't be to hard to reproduce.I have access to awesome machines and machinists at work and would like to try and build one for my own lathe. Can you supply plans? I would pay for them of course. Thanks
how long of a paper can you cut with this setup can you cut a paper 12'' to 18'' long with this setup i make black powder cannon and i need to to cut paper them 12'' to 18'' long ps i love your video i learned a lot thank you keep up the good work tim j
Thanks to this video lol I got myself a taper attachment , having problems supporting a thin long taper I'm thinking of using sprung fingers in a traveling steady, would it work ?
thank you,, ive been looking to buy a lathe with taper attachment for a long time, but there real hard to find, youve inspired me, may i ask how you set out the graduations for the degree pointer? thanks chris uk :)
+Andrew Crews I'll do that- Thanks. I'm one of those people who like to try and figure things out before it being explained- a weakness if you will. I watched this one again and assume the taper jig is moving the cross feed. The cross feed screw is disabled. Now I will go to part 1 and see. Again- Thanks!
Is that a dead center in the tailstock? Are dead centers more inherently accurate than a live center? And what sort of considerations should I make when using a dead center instead of a live center?
dont know about you guys but a taper setup looks way to complicated and time consuming, I picked up a small 4x6 grizzly lathe earlier this year and started making solid aluminum model airplane spinners that turn out just as good as using a taper tool, altho that taper tool was a brilliant idea I do mine by eye and have gotten good at it.....I have to say sir you make some mind expanding videos worth watching
Guess you could have run it in reverse with the cutter on the other side. Or the cutter inverted on the other side in forward and not have to change your setup.
how long of a paper can you cut with this setup can you cut a paper 12'' to 18'' long with this setup i make black powder cannon and i need to to cut paper them 12'' to 18'' long ps i love your video i learned a lot thank you keep up the good work tim j
tubalcain will make us all better machinists, even if we're unable to spell it.
Without guys like you these skills would be gone forever. Thank You.
Wonderful videos. Great for the beginer and the seasoned vet. I am a vet of 31 years and also use a 12 inch atlas at home. Much smaller than my 27 inch x 80 inch romi lathe for work. Your presentations of the basics is great and a joy to see. I run the machine shop operations for a water and sewer company that serves 1.8 million people. Most of our machines now are cnc. Thanks
Tubal Cain - Once again, another great video. Thank you for your efforts. From the comments you can see that we all appreciate them and are learning much from you.
I to would like to see a video of more detail of how you made the taper attchment. I have been looking at your videos for a while now and think its about time I mentioned how much I enjoy them and how much I have learned. Great work Mr Peterson!!! Thank you.
"There's not much to see when I'm boring!". I had a little chuckle when you said that. I've learned so much from your videos. I never find them 'boring'. I wondered if you ever did or demonstrated ball end turning?
I just found you and these two videos, thank you for the demonstration, you answered my question! I have two atlas/craftsmen lathes that I have been using for decades.
+HexAngler Thanks for watching--glad you found me
You're not "boring" us, even though there's not much to see when you are boring! Good teaching video.
the style of tool but that you ground for this video is my favorite favorite favorite period depending on some of the angles he use you can take a hell of a lot of material off with a really nice finish with that design. I really want to make this attachment
Really good explanation about the workings of the device. Going to design one for my Harrison L5! Thanks for your help!
Hey wanted to say thanks for doing the “Turning Tapers...” video. I just finished making some B&S#9 to Jacobs 2 & 3 tapers using the dial indicator trick. They work great. My mill has a B&S #9 spindle and tooling is kinda tough to find for it. Now I can make my own.
👍👍👍
I just figured out that the thing on back of my lathe is a tapper attachment from looking at old diagrams of it. Now I got a rough idea how it works, thanks for the videos.
I've been thinking about building a taper attachment but now feel inspired to make it happen. Great video!
"Afraid there isnt much to see when I'm Boring" NO PUN inteaded....hahaha
Tubalcain love you videos and demeanor. Thank you for these great videos!!
Wonderful video, thanks for sharing. This would be useful for turning barrel contours, although I can see how on longer work lateral deflection could become a problem. Might need to incorporate a follower rest onto the compound slide attachment to to provide off-side support of the work.
Just a thought, as you mentioned, you would lose some precision between the inner and outer tapers by switching the guidebar from one side to the other, but it seems to me you could reverse the lathe head direction and use a boring bar that cuts on the back side of the inner taper to avoid changing your guide bar at all. Thanks again for all your awsome content. I bought a 1917 ish Morris 18 inch engine lathe, and it's mostly your fault.
Great build of the taper attachment and super video on the merits of this device
I found some plans online like this that are useful although my carriage has enough length to cut most standard arbors. I decided if I added a power feed option it could cut smoothly and avoid all the extra hoopla built in the back side that has to be connected and disconnected when I want to taper cut. I machined a perfect fitting mt3 arbor last night from 17-4ph. It’s going to be a sliding thread holder for 69mm round metric dies. I don’t even use the thread option on my lathe since many of the threads I cut are out of range of the machine any way so it’s easier to use a tailstock adapter and put it away when I’m done without doing any gear changes, etc... After graduating to a larger thread diameter needed for certain parts I decided i may as well make a larger version of what I had since nobody makes one beyond the 1.25” diameter dies. As long as I can make r8, mt series, and so on I see no need to build a carriage extension at this time. I wanted power anyways in case I convert to Cnc some day then I can use it as a 3 axis setup.
🤙🤙👌👌
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! Videos are very comprehensive.
I do that. Set the compound to 29 and a half degrees instead of 90 degrees for simple turning. The tricky part is you can't use the cross slide to pull the tool away from the work. You must use the compound to do that. That means you must remember what setting the compound dial was when you pulled it away at the end of the cut. Then you reset it and dial in for the next cut. I leave the half nuts engaged on the lead screw and use the forward-stop-reverse lever to return to the start.
Lyle,
Thank you once again for sharing your wisdom. I never grow tired of learning something new from your videos. I know your passion comes from the heart, I believe it does from all of us who follow you. I have watched all of your videos on indexing and particularly more so your videos on gear cutting. As technical as it may be, you still managed to keep it simple and basic. I am however perplexed on another application that involves indexing. I did purchase the "How To Run A Lathe" by South Bend and found it so helpful. I can't begin to describe how informative of a book it is. Thank you for sharing th as that book. Getting back to my point, I was hoping to find information on making chain sprockets. I have thought about it heavily and came to the conclusion that sprockets are just as complex as gears. Any resources out there that you know of. I was thinking of making 530 chain sprockets. Not sure if you have ever took a try at making a chain sprocket.... it would make a great video I feel because I haven't found one. Thank you again.
thanks. I never made a sprocket, but I believe machinerys handboo has a section on it. They will be no easier than gears. I think they also require special cutters.
My atlas 12" came with a shop made taper attachment....well made. I have yet to use it
I found this very interesting, with a few adjustments it could be used as a tracer,
There is a setscrew on the side of the alum. piece. It pushes against a brass plug machined at 60 deg. It in turn pushes against the crossslide dovetail.
Very interesting and helpful very well explained. I see you use the old style tool post. I want to get one for my lathe but I keep getting told not to because they are junk and not accurate enough. I presently hae the turret type that came with the lathe.
wayneriedlinger I use both kinds
Would you please make a video of you making a taper attachment and include measurements. I’m a small shop and can’t afford to buy one off line but I have the tools to make one.
Mery Christmas !
I enjoy all your videos great to see people like you sharing there experiences
Today I was with new project and I wanted to turn 9mm shaft 6" long to 8mm OD 2.5" then go down to 5 mm OD to the rest of it..
I tried fallow rest but didn't go right! I am using dead center and 4 jaw chuck to get close TIR as .0005 I am going to ask all experienced people to see what I can get!Any idea will more appreciate !
Thank you OZ
What is the problem---that you cannot hold the tolerance? .0005 is a lot to ask of yourself
Kudos on a very useful video short . . . I am no longer condemned to tapering with the compound alone.
I don't know if any body else has remarked it. But if you set the boring bar facing down you can cut the internal taper with out moving the taper attachment.
Hi Joe. Thanks for watching. I made the taper attachment. I roughly copied the original atlas one. Not too hard to make. There are no plans--I just worked off the cuff. SORRY, cannot make drawings --too time consuming. pete
I'd like to see a video just on constructing the taper attachment. Thanks!
Thanks Tubalcain
It just so happens that was the subject in that I was studing today at trade school
Thanks
Hi mrpete this is what I was looking for- I know you can't answer questions cuz there are just to many
The shaft is small and it's 6" long, so when I start taking even a small cut will flex and cause warp !! The 8mm half is easy but the rest of 5mm is difficult to keep it without flexing ! If I can make it within .001 I will be happy!
I used fallow rest but it's not working because it has two different ODs, the shaft I need to make should have 8 mm OD to go inside High RPM Rc heli motor and drive gear pinion that accept 5mm shaft and drive the tail rotor too! So it need to be tight on TIR to prevent Vibration !Thank you for your helpI apprecieate it.Oz
very light cut--slow feed, extremely sharp tool
I appreciate it, I will sharp my insert with my grinder and try one more time
Hopfully will get it done right
Thank you sir
@skyrocketpuke I guess you could also attach a dial gauge to the carriage and rest it against the taper attachment (or the cross slide). Then run carriage as far as it will go, take readings at each and and do some simple maths to work out the angle...
on the internal taper you have rotated the boring tool 180 deg on its axis and run the chuck backwards.. feeding in in the upside down so to speak
@timothysvec LARGE END OD OF ARBOR IS .626 ---SMALL END .624"
Good video, nice explanation and demonstration. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching
I to would like to see a video of more detail of how you made the taper attchment. i can really use one.
Thanks for taking the time to post your knowledge!!!!!
nice job in explaining how things work :) you mentioned in the previous video how you can set the angle by the use of a sine bar. do you have any video or know of any showing that? if i had to imagine how it's done it would seem a bit of a pain to get it all together
No video on that. And yes it is hard to do because of gravity
That's what I do. Some lathes will not allow this. It depends on how much travel your cross slide allows.
thank you for sharing your experience with us sir.
+Sheldon Sirju thanks for watching
Lo felicito por sus videos instructivos, mi pregunta es si tiene planos y medidas de este
Why, when you were cutting the external taper in the beginning of Part 2, did you use a dog and center on the spindle side. Why not just use the chuck or a even a collet chuck?
Is it because of an issue of pressure or accuracy?
Great two-parter!
When I got my craftsman atlas metal lathe it came with a taper attachment bar on the back but not the attachment that goes to the cross slide. So now that I no how I'm gonna make a pool cue out of alluminum. Or try anyway. Thank you for the info❤
Also my bed on this atlas is 8 foot long. So making the pool cue wasn't out of the realm of possibility ❤
I have never seen an atlas lathe that long
@mrpete222 I hadn't either so I had to have it. It is really difficult to get the twist out and level but seems to work well for a 1937 craftsman atlas 12" only problem I've seen is the length of the carriage screw seems to move and wear apron parts rather quickly from what I can tell. Been nice if they have given that a little more thought
"When is this guy going to cut the taper." Welllll...yeah but we really should "suffer" through all the information. haha. Thank you!
As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~
Nice video . But why are giving carige automatically feed ?
Hi guys. I was machining some shaft on geminis650 lathe machine. There is a taper on shafts how do l rectify it . I tried to adjust the tail stock but it's still coming out on either from the center or forwards the chuck.
Could you have bored your internal taper without changing the taper attachment (for an exact match) by cutting on the back side with the boring bar rolled upside down?
Hi tubalcain. Love your videos. I have a 1948 atlas craftsman lathe like yours. I am saving the money for your lathe series on flash drive. Question did you build your taper mechanism or buy it? I've seen them on ebay but they are kind of pricey and yours looks like it wouldn't be to hard to reproduce.I have access to awesome machines and machinists at work and would like to try and build one for my own lathe. Can you supply plans? I would pay for them of course. Thanks
For your interior taper, could you have not turned your boring bar upside down and cut on the backside of the hole with the original nuber 3 setting ?
I do not understand how you clamped the taper attachment to the dovetail. Is there an additional lip under the dovetail that you are clamping to?
how long of a paper can you cut with this setup
can you cut a paper 12'' to 18'' long with this setup
i make black powder cannon and i need to to cut paper them 12'' to 18'' long
ps i love your video i learned a lot thank you keep up the good work tim j
@skyrocketpuke Set the guide bar with a protractor. Then marked the graduations.
Very common on ebay for say a SB9 going for $500. Very nice.
I like the idea is excellent, critical only the use of poor quality screws, bolts, class 8/8 would be the best thing.
I have already made that video, but am still editing. Watch for it soon.
@onyxdrew Give me the time in the video where you noticed the looseness.
shouldn't you cutting the internal taper from inside out?
Thanks for the reply. I'm going to search the "interwebs" for an example of an atlas model and go from there.
Thanks to this video lol I got myself a taper attachment , having problems supporting a thin long taper I'm thinking of using sprung fingers in a traveling steady, would it work ?
thank you,, ive been looking to buy a lathe with taper attachment for a long time, but there real hard to find, youve inspired me, may i ask how you set out the graduations for the degree pointer? thanks chris uk :)
How did you disable the cross feed screw? Thanks. Great video
remove the screw that binds the brass nut to the crossfeed.
yes how do you clamped the taper attachment to the lathe.
I'm not seeing how the taper jig works. The carriage is not riding on the original ways?
+Andrew Crews
I'll do that- Thanks.
I'm one of those people who like to try and figure things out before it being explained- a weakness if you will.
I watched this one again and assume the taper jig is moving the cross feed. The cross feed screw is disabled. Now I will go to part 1 and see.
Again- Thanks!
Did you use ordinary flat bar or machined bar for the guide bar.As always great videos.
Cold rolled flat stock
Thanks so much for another beneficial video!
Is that a dead center in the tailstock? Are dead centers more inherently accurate than a live center? And what sort of considerations should I make when using a dead center instead of a live center?
No, it is a spring loaded live sooner. The big advantage is no lubrication needed
mrpete222 very interesting. I’ve never seen a spring loaded center before. Not having to lubricate it is a plus to be sure.
dont know about you guys but a taper setup looks way to complicated and time consuming, I picked up a small 4x6 grizzly lathe earlier this year and started making solid aluminum model airplane spinners that turn out just as good as using a taper tool, altho that taper tool was a brilliant idea I do mine by eye and have gotten good at it.....I have to say sir you make some mind expanding videos worth watching
Thanks
@psient Just for variety--your ideas would be fine also.
Guess you could have run it in reverse with the cutter on the other side.
Or the cutter inverted on the other side in forward and not have to change your setup.
Do you have videos available on the taper attachment itself? Thank you.
Thanks for watching--sorry, no
Okay,Thank you anyway though!
Can somebody go over feed rates and depth of cut and chip load per tooth? All this in a way that can be understood
@bgehret3141 YES-I should have done it that way in the video.
Excellent Job, Thanks
Your right,toolpost is moving.
i love this guy
@onyxdrew Yes-you are right.
Tim, his can only do 7 inches, make yours a lot longer to suit your lathe
Calkuleter se tepar karna bataye
Mi piace, l'idea è eccellente, critico solo l'uso della viteria di scarsa qualità, dei bulloni in classe 8/8 sarebbero stati la cosa migliore.
I hit post before I wanted to!
Very cool
how do yo make the guid? garing@sgaw,ca
Nice.
I like in Hindi vidio
me to
T=up
[] Universo [ i ];
Autor, ¹Cléber Bortoluzzi;
how long of a paper can you cut with this setup
can you cut a paper 12'' to 18'' long with this setup
i make black powder cannon and i need to to cut paper them 12'' to 18'' long
ps i love your video i learned a lot thank you keep up the good work tim j