Simple how-to videos like this that show how it can be done without CNC type modern manufacturing methods are pure gold ! ! The products being turned out today on modern CNC machinery are absolutely spectacular. They are being produced at a minimum cost and in a minimum of time. However - I wonder how many CNC operators really know how to make something on an old school, analog - non-cnc machine from start to finish. How many of them know how to get it done without pressing buttons on a control panel ?
ok, i have a Colchester. master with no master thread cutting led screw. i do have the gearing from what would be the lead shaft.which is engaged by a sliding shaft. like the lead you have. But no threads on it, to look a half nut. but the sandal will travel . my question is how to cut with no led screw . & half nut?. yes, i realise we need to fit a floating sliding lead screw. to travel with the sandal & rotate the travelling dial. now, how do we determine the rotational speed of the gearing wats the formula to determine shaft granting & speed. to select, a thread cutting. or third to cut. remember i have only a fast and sloe select speed. to determine fine or cor trends. so there's a brain teaser for you. Les England & yes i cut a thread on it. I'm interested in your electric answer to slowing & increasing rotary speeds . for cutting threads. cutting. by increasing speed by your system you shone in an earlier video. Thank you for your input, Les. England ,
hi Mr Pete, enjoyed the video. do you explain how to cut acme threads? I have a little John lathe that needs new cross slide "feedscrew" half inch dia X 10 tpi acme . how do I grind the cutting tool for this? thanks again, Jim (from Brookwood)
Also when chasing an already cut thread ( once the the thread has been matched) to just move the cross feed and not the compound feed so it will cut or clean the thread evenly on both sides.
good video again thanks.. .saw comment on the cnc guys alot of them are lost when it comes to manual skills always come to the old guyto help them even grinding a drill
In the shop, the topic was "picking up threads", and, outside, during the break the topic was "picking up girls"...... lol What topic was the most successful .....???
When catching an existing thread, I set the compound to 90 degrees and turn the spindle by hand. It takes only minutes to clean-up a thread. If the compound is still at 30 degrees, one can use the sine of 30 degrees is 0.5.
GREAT!!!...In my shop..Restoring a 1937 13" LeBLOND Lathe...School crashed...very bad...but I love it...The ways are fresh because of little use in its pre-crashed days (carriage ran into the 3 jaw chuck destroying it & leaving HUGE scars on compound )..It is back , running beautiful & better as time goes bye....I say again...."LYLE 4 PRESIDENT"....Don't slow down mrpete222.....thanks....jm
I wish I could have seen what you were doing with the handwheels on the machine. The technique is in the manipulation of the controls which you mentioned, but did not show. I saw the result, but I am not sure what you did.
+Robert Lunsford He was just moving the compound feed as he showed in the beginning which moves the tool longitudinally as well as the cross feed to get the tool to line up in the groove. You can move both feeds in combination to find the right location to get the tool lined up. As long as your half nut remains engaged, then once the tool lines up in the groove, it will follow the pitch. And take the bashlash out by always moving the feeds toward the work as he stated. Hopefully that helps.
@@HughesEarthworks At 5:20 after stopping the machine when you're lined up with the thread, you would reset your cross-slide dial to zero, then disengaged the half-nut, then back out of the thread with your cross-slide, move you carriage back to the beginning of the thread, move your cross-slide to zero again, advance your compound, turn your machine back on and engage your half-nut on a number and you're back cutting the thread again.
On my Central Machinery 9x20 I found this activity (and thread cutting in general) nearly impossible until I found and fixed the underlying problem. The 120/127 gear for switching between metric and imperial although inseparable from each other could move axially with respect to each other. And although the angular play was less the one tooth space is fouled the entire timing/synchronizing effort. Solution? I drilled and pinned the two together. Now I'm making threads like a pro. 👍
You showed the results but you failed to mention what you did to achieve it. Like what handle did you adjust? I'm not being a critic but have a problem here mainly on the internal thread chasing. Dave
Thank you mrpete222 for sharing your knowledge & your passion. With people like you sharing their knowledge on manual machining the world will be more apt to keep manual machining alive & well, now & into the future.
I must be one of those "students" that requires extra help because the problem is understood, the goal is understood, but I'm still having a problems seeing how this was accomplished without viewing anything other than the cutter in the video. Also I understand the need to have the thread dial correct but I got lost there as well. Guess I need to stay after class eh??
+hankus253 afaict it basically boils down to: stick the thread dial on a number you would use if you were cutting the thread, using the compound adjust the tool side to side until it is on the center of the thread, then using the cross slide move the tool into the thread
I’m looking at a list of the videos in this series, and I see the Shop Tips for the Craftsman Atlas lathe stop with this video. Then there are a series of private videos. Are these videos available for purchase?
Thanks for another great video. The technique seems to rely on having a thread dial indicator. Is there any way to cut a thread successfully without one please as sadly my lathe (Myford M type) does not.
+RumpLeINtiLINsKinnIN Disregard that. I just watched another one of your videos that answered my question. Thanks for dropping some knowledge on us and taking the time to make these videos.
My dad use to make the screw for plastic extruding machines, and this particular type are very large and usually are somewhat around one thread per two or three inches... could you consider to show what would be the proper setup?? Thanks
+Migueldeservantes I don't see how you could do such a pitch by the usual methods, you'd need an extremely fast feed. probably something with live tooling some custom gearing for the feed and very sloow spindle
I think that they use to invert the gearing on the spindle.. it was a special custom job! I mean my memory is not that good, but I know that they use to get paid very well!
THANK SO MUCH LYLE, I HAVE NOT CHASED A THREAD IN ABOUT 41 YEARS AND FORGOTTEN HOW . YOU ARE SUCH AN INSPIRATION TO ME !!!!! NOW I CAN DO IT IF I HAVE TO, YOUR METHOD IS SO DOWN TO EARTH AND LOOKS EASY !! THANKS AGAIN JOE
Mr. Pete, I have the old Armstrong threading tool but the tool bit is long gone. To get a replacement bit, do you have to search by the number on the tool holder? Thank you.
Simple how-to videos like this that show how it can be done without CNC type modern manufacturing methods are pure gold ! ! The products being turned out today on modern CNC machinery are absolutely spectacular. They are being produced at a minimum cost and in a minimum of time. However - I wonder how many CNC operators really know how to make something on an old school, analog - non-cnc machine from start to finish. How many of them know how to get it done without pressing buttons on a control panel ?
Nice short and right to the point, keep the great videos coming.
Excellent tutorial mrpete. Many thanks for sharing. regards from the UK
Thanks for the video. Thanks for the good information.
these videos are just getting better and better. all I need now is a lathe :) oh, one day, hopefully!
great tips for those of us who needed it! Thanks
ok, i have a Colchester. master with no master thread cutting led screw. i do have the gearing from what would be the lead shaft.which is engaged by a sliding shaft. like the lead you have. But no threads on it, to look a half nut. but the sandal will travel . my question is how to cut with no led screw . & half nut?. yes, i realise we need to fit a floating sliding lead screw. to travel with the sandal & rotate the travelling dial. now, how do we determine the rotational speed of the gearing wats the formula to determine shaft granting & speed. to select, a thread cutting. or third to cut. remember i have only a fast and sloe select speed. to determine fine or cor trends. so there's a brain teaser for you. Les England & yes i cut a thread on it. I'm interested in your electric answer to slowing & increasing rotary speeds . for cutting threads. cutting. by increasing speed by your system you shone in an earlier video.
Thank you for your input, Les. England ,
hi Mr Pete, enjoyed the video. do you explain how to cut acme threads? I have a little John lathe that needs new cross slide "feedscrew" half inch dia X 10 tpi acme . how do I grind the cutting tool for this? thanks again, Jim (from Brookwood)
SEARCH for--- MACHINE SHOP TIPS #24 Acme Threading Part 1 tubalcain
would like some education on a buttress thread.
Great tip Mr. Pete! Thanks as always for sharing!
Two things to avoid, boogered up handkerchiefs and boogered up threads.
Also when chasing an already cut thread ( once the the thread has been matched) to just move the cross feed and not the compound feed so it will cut or clean the thread evenly on both sides.
good video again thanks..
.saw comment on the cnc guys alot of them are lost when it comes to manual skills always come to the old guyto help them even grinding a drill
In the shop, the topic was "picking up threads", and, outside, during the break the topic was "picking up girls"...... lol
What topic was the most successful .....???
When catching an existing thread, I set the compound to 90 degrees and turn the spindle by hand. It takes only minutes to clean-up a thread. If the compound is still at 30 degrees, one can use the sine of 30 degrees is 0.5.
👍👍👍
Great video, very informative. Thanks.
Dude you are awesome
GREAT!!!...In my shop..Restoring a 1937 13" LeBLOND Lathe...School crashed...very bad...but I love it...The ways are fresh because of little use in its pre-crashed days (carriage ran into the 3 jaw chuck destroying it & leaving HUGE scars on compound )..It is back , running beautiful & better as time goes bye....I say again...."LYLE 4 PRESIDENT"....Don't slow down mrpete222.....thanks....jm
I wish I could have seen what you were doing with the handwheels on the machine. The technique is in the manipulation of the controls which you mentioned, but did not show. I saw the result, but I am not sure what you did.
+Robert Lunsford It helped to go back and watch his threading videos before watching this one a second time!
+Robert Lunsford He was just moving the compound feed as he showed in the beginning which moves the tool longitudinally as well as the cross feed to get the tool to line up in the groove. You can move both feeds in combination to find the right location to get the tool lined up. As long as your half nut remains engaged, then once the tool lines up in the groove, it will follow the pitch. And take the bashlash out by always moving the feeds toward the work as he stated. Hopefully that helps.
@@HughesEarthworks At 5:20 after stopping the machine when you're lined up with the thread, you would reset your cross-slide dial to zero, then disengaged the half-nut, then back out of the thread with your cross-slide, move you carriage back to the beginning of the thread, move your cross-slide to zero again, advance your compound, turn your machine back on and engage your half-nut on a number and you're back cutting the thread again.
On my Central Machinery 9x20 I found this activity (and thread cutting in general) nearly impossible until I found and fixed the underlying problem. The 120/127 gear for switching between metric and imperial although inseparable from each other could move axially with respect to each other. And although the angular play was less the one tooth space is fouled the entire timing/synchronizing effort. Solution? I drilled and pinned the two together. Now I'm making threads like a pro. 👍
I love your sense of humor.
You showed the results but you failed to mention what you did to achieve it. Like what handle did you adjust? I'm not being a critic but have a problem here mainly on the internal thread chasing. Dave
Thank you mrpete222 for sharing your knowledge & your passion. With people like you sharing their knowledge on manual machining the world will be more apt to keep manual machining alive & well, now & into the future.
Mr. Pete, crystal clear! Thanks for sharing, have a nice weekend. Regards from Bonnie Scotland!
I must be one of those "students" that requires extra help because the problem is understood, the goal is understood, but I'm still having a problems seeing how this was accomplished without viewing anything other than the cutter in the video. Also I understand the need to have the thread dial correct but I got lost there as well. Guess I need to stay after class eh??
+hankus253 afaict it basically boils down to: stick the thread dial on a number you would use if you were cutting the thread, using the compound adjust the tool side to side until it is on the center of the thread, then using the cross slide move the tool into the thread
+Lasse Langwadt Christensen Got it, Thanks.
Very clearly explained. Thanks!
That is how i learned to pickup a thread when I was in college. My instructor was a real tough an made use practice on old scrap bolts. Great video.
Thank you for the great tip. You just saved me from buying a die for a project I have been putting off due to the cost of the die.
Thanks for a great video. Good teaching is timeless.
THANK YOU...for sharing.
Thanks for the tip on the ebay store! Grabbed me some goodies!
great information as always.. Thanks for sharing sir....
Very nicely demonstrated.
Your the best mr pete.
Thank you very much
I’m looking at a list of the videos in this series, and I see the Shop Tips for the Craftsman Atlas lathe stop with this video. Then there are a series of private videos. Are these videos available for purchase?
Yes, look at my video called back-to-school special
And remember to set your dials!
Thanks again,
Thanks for another great video. The technique seems to rely on having a thread dial indicator. Is there any way to cut a thread successfully without one please as sadly my lathe (Myford M type) does not.
Watch tips #237
Excellent !!
Just curious, Tubalcain. Does this lathe have a foot brake? If so, are you using it to stop?
+RumpLeINtiLINsKinnIN Disregard that. I just watched another one of your videos that answered my question. Thanks for dropping some knowledge on us and taking the time to make these videos.
My dad use to make the screw for plastic extruding machines, and this particular type are very large and usually are somewhat around one thread per two or three inches... could you consider to show what would be the proper setup?? Thanks
+Migueldeservantes I've see those screws--Don't know how they are made
+Migueldeservantes I don't see how you could do such a pitch by the usual methods, you'd need an extremely fast feed.
probably something with live tooling some custom gearing for the feed and very sloow spindle
I think that they use to invert the gearing on the spindle.. it was a special custom job! I mean my memory is not that good, but I know that they use to get paid very well!
THANK SO MUCH LYLE, I HAVE NOT CHASED A THREAD IN ABOUT 41 YEARS AND FORGOTTEN HOW . YOU ARE SUCH AN INSPIRATION TO ME !!!!! NOW I CAN DO IT IF I HAVE TO, YOUR METHOD IS SO DOWN TO EARTH AND LOOKS EASY !! THANKS AGAIN JOE
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it
Mr. Pete, I have the old Armstrong threading tool but the tool bit is long gone. To get a replacement bit, do you have to search by the number on the tool holder? Thank you.
+greasydot Try both--but I bet it is an obsolete part
+mrpete222 Very well, thank you. Keep up the work young man!! awesome videos.