Just so you know there are two cable clamps on the left hand side if you are facing the dremel workstation for clamping the cord from the dreml in and it moves up and down with the whole unit so that the cord is alway out of the way. The hanger on the top is not for the cord but for the Dremel Flex Shaft to hang on.
Thanks. I use mine almost exclusively for drilling FRP printed circuit boards. It works great for light duty drilling tasks like that. It's also a good platform for hanging the Dremel Flex Shaft adapter, though I don't use that as often. For all larger tasks I use a standard drill press. For PCBs, if you etch little holes in the copper for the drill bit, and put a small LED bulb under the center hole in the table, the light will shine up through the FRP and give you a lighted hole to drill through. As for the rear hold-down screw that often strips, you can fashion a handle to fit the screw quite easily instead of using a screw driver. A bit of wood, a nut or two and some epoxy is all you need.
Hey everyone, new Dremel owner here. I was assembling the 220-01 Workstation and I pulled out the Angle Lock Knob (the black one) on accident. I’ve looked around on TH-cam for a replacement tutorial but all I could find was someone saying, “Don’t pull it out all of the way because it’s hard to replace.” Would anyone be able to tell me how to set it back in or point me to a tutorial? There doesn’t seem to be anything for the knob to actually screw into.
Purpose for that top hook is to HANG your Dremel when you use the FLEX SHAFT adapter, there are cord clips on the side for your cord. If you didn't RTM, then look at the pretty pictures on the box. ETA: at 6:33 those cutouts are for hold down clamps, illustrated on page 6 along with the purpose for the hook. You want to mount the base use those 4 foot holes. Advice from a retired corporate trainer... RTM before explaining tools or anything where safety will be an issue.
Thanks! I did forget about the side clips. I appreciate it, it never hurts to have more information if I missed something. My video is more about the real world use experience I have with the tool, so it is, as you point out, not just me reading the manual. The beauty of YT is that there are plenty of other videos if people just want that.
Hey everyone, new Dremel owner here. I was assembling the 220-01 Workstation and I pulled out the Angle Lock Knob (the black one) on accident. I’ve looked around on TH-cam for a replacement tutorial but all I could find was someone saying, “Don’t pull it out all of the way because it’s hard to replace.” Would anyone be able to tell me how to set it back in or point me to a tutorial? There doesn’t seem to be anything for the knob to actually screw into.
I've had mine for years and it's holding up well. The Dremel Workstation is worth every penny I spent for it. I build large scale sailing ship models (1/96th scale) and I am constantly slapping something together...this workstation is indispensable and the more I used it, the more things I discovered it could do.
There are two bolts which hold the next from wobbling. One is at the bottom of the depth stop rod, about a 9mm bolt head, and the other larger bolt is right next to that one, about a 14mm bolt. Mine were both a bit loose from when I took the unit out of the box. Tightening them up cured the wobble mentioned in the video. Hope that helps.
The cross shaped slots in the base plate are intended to take T-Nuts for clamps and fences (that's why they have square cutouts at the ends!). But I'd generally comment that I think you are using it for larger than intended work pieces and heavier duty than intended machining. I use a cordless Dremmel with mine, and it would not have the torque to drill a hole that size in hardwood. The weakness I found was the plastic thread on the Dremmel to retain it to the workstation. Mine quickly got cross-threaded and stripped.
I just noticed there are also two little screws on the opposite side of the depth stop. These were also loose on mine. I tightened them down, then backed them off perhaps a quarter to half turn to ensure proper operation without any wiggle.
Hey everyone, new Dremel owner here. I was assembling the 220-01 Workstation and I pulled out the Angle Lock Knob (the black one) on accident. I’ve looked around on TH-cam for a replacement tutorial but all I could find was someone saying, “Don’t pull it out all of the way because it’s hard to replace.” Would anyone be able to tell me how to set it back in or point me to a tutorial? There doesn’t seem to be anything for the knob to actually screw into.
Another thing to check are the two screws that secure the depth stop rod. They need to be firm against the rod to prevent chatter. Use a small screwdriver to tighten them up, then back them off just a bit to ensure smooth operation of the depth stop.
Dremel wrench storage - simple solution is to glue a small magnet to the side of the tool storage tray. Problem solved. Nice video with lots of good tips. Thanks.
Regarding the depth stop, is there a little play on it only when not drilling through, or at all heights? Also, do you think this could be reliable for drilling 1/4” holes with a #5 reamer in maple wood? Thanks
All heights, at least on mine. It's not so much the stop as it is the lever and stop in combination. When they meet there is just a little tiny slip of the entire thing. I'll be honest, I don't know much about reamers. My understanding is they are meant to enlarge holes, right? If so, then no, this will likely struggle to keep the bit centered over numerous holes. For enlarging a hole you need something with a really stiff post. That being said, that is just my thought, and I don't have any testing experience with doing what you want to do, so feel free to try and let me know if you want. I would certainly be curious to know.
I am looking at getting a Dremel anyway for all its lil features. But was considering using the drill press workstation to drill vertical holes through pen blanks.. with a drill press vice of course. With the bit of wobble in it, do you think this could handle a steady hole through pen blanks?
The first question is how big and deep does the hole need to be? There are limits on what bits can even fit in the Dremel, as the shaft/shank/whatever you want to call it of the bit has to be something like 1/16 or smaller. The bits that Dremel sells aren't particularly long either. That may be an issue that makes it totally useless, as you may simply not be able to get a bit that drills deep enough. Will the hole be able to be seen at all? The big issue with the movement is at the bottom and the top of the hole. It tens to skew a bit at the bottom, and then right as the bit comes out it will correct back the other way and leave a small mark, wider than the hole, generally on the side facing the press. If the hole is covered, then you won't have to worry about the exit movement, but the bottom movement could be an issue. Usually when I am putting a small dowel in I taper the very bottom tip to sit easily in the slightly skewed bottom, allowing the rest to be straight. I wish I had done a better look at the exit issues in the video, but I didn't think about it at the time. If your wood is really hard, and the hole really deep, it will multiple the problems, and you will probably get some burning. I have done some full depth, but not open bottom holes, where I had to peek in there to make sure there wasn't an ember at the bottom. I still haven't figured out the ideal speed to use. If it is too slow, it can move the workpiece, and too fast and it burns. You will get more movement if you do the normal drill press move of going in in multiple stages, where you pull it back a tad, then start pressing again. This is definitely not the ideal tool for this, though a vice may help a lot more, so it's possible you get fewer issues, but I can't say for sure. I guess the question is whether you are willing to spend $50ish on a tool that is sort of a toss up as to whether you get the results you want.
Great review. It changed my mind on buying one. I won't. Things, even if they are relatively cheap, shouldn't wobble (a drill stand really shouldn't do that) and or break. I have just come to the same conclusion about a Parkside wood lathe. Also cheap, surely. But the toolrest just breaks and nobody at the manufacturer is interested in fixing the problem. I'd rather pay € 10 or € 20 more for tools that don't wobble and don't break after only some light use. FYI I also own Festool and Milwaukee tools for heavy use. But for lighter and less frequent use I will also buy cheaper tools. As long as they perform the tasks that they are made for and don't break.
there is another video on youtube that shows how to tighten everything up so it doesn't wobble. Also, if you slow the speed of the sander it worn't burn so much.
Miles, In regards to stowing the chuck wrench I glued a magnet to thr storage hub. I have the habit of misplacing tools with no effort. Great instructional vid. Thanks!
You know you can twist the smaller diameter metal tube protruding out slightly at the top, this loosens it and it can be extended up and twisted back the other way to lock it at the desired height.
That's my fault. This was an early one, and I had no idea how to manipulate audio at the time. I don't have the original files anymore. This will get re-filmed one day in HD with better audio.
Yes and no. It depends on the bit you are using. I almost always clamp it, or bolt it down. Vibration is worse with larger bits at slower speeds - think low grit sandpaper at a low speed. It's more just it will move in general because it lacks weight, so any pressure put on it can make it slide. The play in the lowering mechanism creates problems that mimic vibration due to the bit moving. It really needs to be clamped or bolted down.
Check the two brass grubb screws that tighten up on the keyway. They act as gibbs . Not very good but they help reduce play. Whole unit is too 'plasticy' and prone to play in my opinion.
The Dremel threads into it like a bolt. It's not a clamping mechanism to hold the tool. The threaded hole is about 5/8", but there is no way to lock a tool that isn't threaded like the Dremel.
The wood piece is due to the nut eventually wearing down the plastic, and then not locking. It would just spin the nut. The wood piece traps the nut, and prevents turning. Look in from the top with a flashlight and see if it is slipping when you tighten. The whole thing is just a friction lock, with the handle/bolt pressing on the metal tube. I'd also check to make sure the bolt is making it all of the way through the nut, to make contact. I'd take the nut and bolt/handle out, and screw it in just to make sure it can go all of the way. I also often find that quality control in items that are on the cheaper side can be hit or miss. You could try replacing the nut, or bolt, or both, with just some hardware store ones. Try the wedge of wood, but other than those things, I am not too sure.
It doesn't matter too much what you use, it just needs to be only a little smaller than the area you drop it into. I used a square nut that is a little under 1/2" in width, so it slides down there but doesn't turn much. The bolt is 1/4". You can probably get a 5/16" bolt into the hole for even more contact. If you can find a square nut with an exterior of about a 1/2", and then a 5/16 bolt to match, that would be ideal. It doesn't need to be long. Even an inch would be plenty imo.
@@MMWoodworking i really appreciate your response. I tried a 5/16 bolt but the nut i got along with it won’t fit. I will try to look for a square nut tomorrow.
Hey everyone, new Dremel owner here. I was assembling the 220-01 Workstation and I pulled out the Angle Lock Knob (the black one) on accident. I’ve looked around on TH-cam for a replacement tutorial but all I could find was someone saying, “Don’t pull it out all of the way because it’s hard to replace.” Would anyone be able to tell me how to set it back in or point me to a tutorial? There doesn’t seem to be anything for the knob to actually screw into.
Hey everyone, new Dremel owner here. I was assembling the 220-01 Workstation and I pulled out the Angle Lock Knob (the black one) on accident. I’ve looked around on TH-cam for a replacement tutorial but all I could find was someone saying, “Don’t pull it out all of the way because it’s hard to replace.” Would anyone be able to tell me how to set it back in or point me to a tutorial? There doesn’t seem to be anything for the knob to actually screw into.
Are you in the US? If so, Home Depot is where I got mine. Amazon and Ace Hardware have it online. Outside of the US, I am not sure. I would check Amazon.
For sure. The Dremel, at least the one I have, has a slowest speed of 5k RPMs, which is still way too fast. The problem is that at that speed, it doesn't have the rigidity and torque to go into hardwood in a nice clean cut. You either deal with a struggle of a messy cut at 5k, or a cleaner hole at higher speeds, which means the bit wears out faster. I'll have to grab my hot glue gun and give that a try. Thanks for the tip!
Tear out isn't the issue, but yes, that will generally deal with tear out if the two surfaces are flat. The lack of rigidity and torque means the bit will search for the path of least resistance, which, in denser grain, isn't always nicely up and down. The bit, at the lower speeds, likes to wander while in the hole, as the brad point tips find an easier path. It isn't much, but if you need to put a 1/4in dowel in the hole, by the time you are past the first 3/16ths-1/4in, the hole will not be a nice and clean diameter, not perfectly straight. I am going to get a drill press in a few weeks, as I have a new projects that needs lots of really large holes, and I will just move most of my drilling needs there. The Dremel is still useful for drilling into very small pieces, because the lack of torque means the drill bit won't require a clamped work piece. @@willmorton6800
Good to know on the deeper holes. Hadn't considered that. My plans for getting one of these is for drilling pilot holes in 1/8 to 1/2 wood for scrollsawing. I have a larger drill press and it's just more than I need most of the time. So I am going to gain some workbench space with a smaller set up. Plus having the ability to turn the machine 90degrees will make sanding things much nicer behing able to old the piece with two hands. At least I'm hoping that is the case. LOL @@MMWoodworking
No, this Dremel isn't meant for cutting pieces of wood into smaller pieces of wood, in straight lines. You will need some sort of saw. Table saw, track saw, circular saw (aka skil saww), or jigsaw... something like that. That is in order of accuracy. The table saw is generally the default saw for most cuts.
It is. It's quite cheap. It's not a full blown drill press, and should not be thought of that way. It's a Dremel accessory. If you want a real drill press, but don't want to pay a ton, step up to the WEN 12in bench-top. I got one recently and have been very pleased. I still use the Dremel station for drilling on very tiny pieces, where the power of the Wen wants to grab the piece, but the piece is too tiny to clamp to my drill press table. For those pieces, the Dremel works.
Just so you know there are two cable clamps on the left hand side if you are facing the dremel workstation for clamping the cord from the dreml in and it moves up and down with the whole unit so that the cord is alway out of the way. The hanger on the top is not for the cord but for the Dremel Flex Shaft to hang on.
Glue a small magnet on the side of the bit holder (or anywhere you please) to hold the collet wrench.
Thanks. I use mine almost exclusively for drilling FRP printed circuit boards. It works great for light duty drilling tasks like that. It's also a good platform for hanging the Dremel Flex Shaft adapter, though I don't use that as often. For all larger tasks I use a standard drill press. For PCBs, if you etch little holes in the copper for the drill bit, and put a small LED bulb under the center hole in the table, the light will shine up through the FRP and give you a lighted hole to drill through. As for the rear hold-down screw that often strips, you can fashion a handle to fit the screw quite easily instead of using a screw driver. A bit of wood, a nut or two and some epoxy is all you need.
Hey everyone, new Dremel owner here. I was assembling the 220-01 Workstation and I pulled out the Angle Lock Knob (the black one) on accident. I’ve looked around on TH-cam for a replacement tutorial but all I could find was someone saying, “Don’t pull it out all of the way because it’s hard to replace.” Would anyone be able to tell me how to set it back in or point me to a tutorial? There doesn’t seem to be anything for the knob to actually screw into.
Purpose for that top hook is to HANG your Dremel when you use the FLEX SHAFT adapter, there are cord clips on the side for your cord.
If you didn't RTM, then look at the pretty pictures on the box.
ETA: at 6:33 those cutouts are for hold down clamps, illustrated on page 6 along with the purpose for the hook.
You want to mount the base use those 4 foot holes.
Advice from a retired corporate trainer... RTM before explaining tools or anything where safety will be an issue.
Thanks! I did forget about the side clips. I appreciate it, it never hurts to have more information if I missed something.
My video is more about the real world use experience I have with the tool, so it is, as you point out, not just me reading the manual. The beauty of YT is that there are plenty of other videos if people just want that.
Hey everyone, new Dremel owner here. I was assembling the 220-01 Workstation and I pulled out the Angle Lock Knob (the black one) on accident. I’ve looked around on TH-cam for a replacement tutorial but all I could find was someone saying, “Don’t pull it out all of the way because it’s hard to replace.” Would anyone be able to tell me how to set it back in or point me to a tutorial? There doesn’t seem to be anything for the knob to actually screw into.
I've had mine for years and it's holding up well. The Dremel Workstation is worth every penny I spent for it. I build large scale sailing ship models (1/96th scale) and I am constantly slapping something together...this workstation is indispensable and the more I used it, the more things I discovered it could do.
There are two bolts which hold the next from wobbling. One is at the bottom of the depth stop rod, about a 9mm bolt head, and the other larger bolt is right next to that one, about a 14mm bolt. Mine were both a bit loose from when I took the unit out of the box. Tightening them up cured the wobble mentioned in the video. Hope that helps.
The cross shaped slots in the base plate are intended to take T-Nuts for clamps and fences (that's why they have square cutouts at the ends!). But I'd generally comment that I think you are using it for larger than intended work pieces and heavier duty than intended machining. I use a cordless Dremmel with mine, and it would not have the torque to drill a hole that size in hardwood. The weakness I found was the plastic thread on the Dremmel to retain it to the workstation. Mine quickly got cross-threaded and stripped.
I just noticed there are also two little screws on the opposite side of the depth stop. These were also loose on mine. I tightened them down, then backed them off perhaps a quarter to half turn to ensure proper operation without any wiggle.
I store the small wrench in the same slot as the big wrench. There is room for both 😊
Hey everyone, new Dremel owner here. I was assembling the 220-01 Workstation and I pulled out the Angle Lock Knob (the black one) on accident. I’ve looked around on TH-cam for a replacement tutorial but all I could find was someone saying, “Don’t pull it out all of the way because it’s hard to replace.” Would anyone be able to tell me how to set it back in or point me to a tutorial? There doesn’t seem to be anything for the knob to actually screw into.
The pipe that your dremel is attached to extends..
Another thing to check are the two screws that secure the depth stop rod. They need to be firm against the rod to prevent chatter. Use a small screwdriver to tighten them up, then back them off just a bit to ensure smooth operation of the depth stop.
Dremel wrench storage - simple solution is to glue a small magnet to the side of the tool storage tray. Problem solved. Nice video with lots of good tips. Thanks.
Regarding the depth stop, is there a little play on it only when not drilling through, or at all heights? Also, do you think this could be reliable for drilling 1/4” holes with a #5 reamer in maple wood? Thanks
All heights, at least on mine. It's not so much the stop as it is the lever and stop in combination.
When they meet there is just a little tiny slip of the entire thing. I'll be honest, I don't know much about reamers. My understanding is they are meant to enlarge holes, right? If so, then no, this will likely struggle to keep the bit centered over numerous holes. For enlarging a hole you need something with a really stiff post.
That being said, that is just my thought, and I don't have any testing experience with doing what you want to do, so feel free to try and let me know if you want. I would certainly be curious to know.
Thanks so very much for sharing this with us!
I am looking at getting a Dremel anyway for all its lil features.
But was considering using the drill press workstation to drill vertical holes through pen blanks.. with a drill press vice of course.
With the bit of wobble in it, do you think this could handle a steady hole through pen blanks?
The first question is how big and deep does the hole need to be? There are limits on what bits can even fit in the Dremel, as the shaft/shank/whatever you want to call it of the bit has to be something like 1/16 or smaller. The bits that Dremel sells aren't particularly long either. That may be an issue that makes it totally useless, as you may simply not be able to get a bit that drills deep enough.
Will the hole be able to be seen at all? The big issue with the movement is at the bottom and the top of the hole. It tens to skew a bit at the bottom, and then right as the bit comes out it will correct back the other way and leave a small mark, wider than the hole, generally on the side facing the press.
If the hole is covered, then you won't have to worry about the exit movement, but the bottom movement could be an issue. Usually when I am putting a small dowel in I taper the very bottom tip to sit easily in the slightly skewed bottom, allowing the rest to be straight.
I wish I had done a better look at the exit issues in the video, but I didn't think about it at the time.
If your wood is really hard, and the hole really deep, it will multiple the problems, and you will probably get some burning. I have done some full depth, but not open bottom holes, where I had to peek in there to make sure there wasn't an ember at the bottom. I still haven't figured out the ideal speed to use. If it is too slow, it can move the workpiece, and too fast and it burns.
You will get more movement if you do the normal drill press move of going in in multiple stages, where you pull it back a tad, then start pressing again.
This is definitely not the ideal tool for this, though a vice may help a lot more, so it's possible you get fewer issues, but I can't say for sure.
I guess the question is whether you are willing to spend $50ish on a tool that is sort of a toss up as to whether you get the results you want.
If you're drilling through the side of the blank no problem. Not through the length.
Great review. It changed my mind on buying one. I won't. Things, even if they are relatively cheap, shouldn't wobble (a drill stand really shouldn't do that) and or break. I have just come to the same conclusion about a Parkside wood lathe. Also cheap, surely. But the toolrest just breaks and nobody at the manufacturer is interested in fixing the problem. I'd rather pay € 10 or € 20 more for tools that don't wobble and don't break after only some light use. FYI I also own Festool and Milwaukee tools for heavy use. But for lighter and less frequent use I will also buy cheaper tools. As long as they perform the tasks that they are made for and don't break.
there is another video on youtube that shows how to tighten everything up so it doesn't wobble. Also, if you slow the speed of the sander it worn't burn so much.
Best honest review... Thanks!
do they sell guides that can use the X as a mounting point?
Miles, In regards to stowing the chuck wrench I glued a magnet to thr storage hub. I have the habit of misplacing tools with no effort. Great instructional vid. Thanks!
Thanks! Someone else mentioned a magnet, so clearly that is the way to go. I always forget about magnets, but they are so handy in the shop.
You know you can twist the smaller diameter metal tube protruding out slightly at the top, this loosens it and it can be extended up and twisted back the other way to lock it at the desired height.
Very nice tutorial. The audio is a little low but clear. Thank you.
That's my fault. This was an early one, and I had no idea how to manipulate audio at the time. I don't have the original files anymore. This will get re-filmed one day in HD with better audio.
Without either anchoring it, or beefing up the base, seems vibration could be a serious issue. Waiting to see if you observe that.
Yes and no. It depends on the bit you are using. I almost always clamp it, or bolt it down. Vibration is worse with larger bits at slower speeds - think low grit sandpaper at a low speed. It's more just it will move in general because it lacks weight, so any pressure put on it can make it slide. The play in the lowering mechanism creates problems that mimic vibration due to the bit moving. It really needs to be clamped or bolted down.
Check the two brass grubb screws that tighten up on the keyway. They act as gibbs . Not very good but they help reduce play. Whole unit is too 'plasticy' and prone to play in my opinion.
Will this fit other rotary tools ? what is the diameter of the ring clamp.
The Dremel threads into it like a bolt. It's not a clamping mechanism to hold the tool. The threaded hole is about 5/8", but there is no way to lock a tool that isn't threaded like the Dremel.
I tighten the hell out of the back but it still moves side to side, any tips? I noticed you used a wooden piece along the shaft
The wood piece is due to the nut eventually wearing down the plastic, and then not locking. It would just spin the nut. The wood piece traps the nut, and prevents turning. Look in from the top with a flashlight and see if it is slipping when you tighten. The whole thing is just a friction lock, with the handle/bolt pressing on the metal tube.
I'd also check to make sure the bolt is making it all of the way through the nut, to make contact. I'd take the nut and bolt/handle out, and screw it in just to make sure it can go all of the way.
I also often find that quality control in items that are on the cheaper side can be hit or miss. You could try replacing the nut, or bolt, or both, with just some hardware store ones.
Try the wedge of wood, but other than those things, I am not too sure.
What nut and bolt did you use as replacement? I bought a workstation from FB marketplace and got missing parts.
It doesn't matter too much what you use, it just needs to be only a little smaller than the area you drop it into.
I used a square nut that is a little under 1/2" in width, so it slides down there but doesn't turn much. The bolt is 1/4".
You can probably get a 5/16" bolt into the hole for even more contact. If you can find a square nut with an exterior of about a 1/2", and then a 5/16 bolt to match, that would be ideal. It doesn't need to be long. Even an inch would be plenty imo.
@@MMWoodworking i really appreciate your response. I tried a 5/16 bolt but the nut i got along with it won’t fit. I will try to look for a square nut tomorrow.
Hey everyone, new Dremel owner here. I was assembling the 220-01 Workstation and I pulled out the Angle Lock Knob (the black one) on accident. I’ve looked around on TH-cam for a replacement tutorial but all I could find was someone saying, “Don’t pull it out all of the way because it’s hard to replace.” Would anyone be able to tell me how to set it back in or point me to a tutorial? There doesn’t seem to be anything for the knob to actually screw into.
Have you figured it out? I just made the same mistake.
better than the ryobi hobby station? i think so. i have them both
The Dremel key fits in the same location that you put the wrench than came with the workstation in, together with the wrench.
Hey everyone, new Dremel owner here. I was assembling the 220-01 Workstation and I pulled out the Angle Lock Knob (the black one) on accident. I’ve looked around on TH-cam for a replacement tutorial but all I could find was someone saying, “Don’t pull it out all of the way because it’s hard to replace.” Would anyone be able to tell me how to set it back in or point me to a tutorial? There doesn’t seem to be anything for the knob to actually screw into.
Great video... thank you.
Where can I get the drill press?? P lease
Are you in the US? If so, Home Depot is where I got mine. Amazon and Ace Hardware have it online. Outside of the US, I am not sure. I would check Amazon.
Far far too fast to drill through maple. And as for the nut on the height adjustment, would expoxying or hot gluing the nut solve your issue?
For sure. The Dremel, at least the one I have, has a slowest speed of 5k RPMs, which is still way too fast. The problem is that at that speed, it doesn't have the rigidity and torque to go into hardwood in a nice clean cut. You either deal with a struggle of a messy cut at 5k, or a cleaner hole at higher speeds, which means the bit wears out faster.
I'll have to grab my hot glue gun and give that a try. Thanks for the tip!
@@MMWoodworking Doesn't placing a sacrificial piece of wood under what you are drilling in solve the tear out problem?
Tear out isn't the issue, but yes, that will generally deal with tear out if the two surfaces are flat.
The lack of rigidity and torque means the bit will search for the path of least resistance, which, in denser grain, isn't always nicely up and down.
The bit, at the lower speeds, likes to wander while in the hole, as the brad point tips find an easier path. It isn't much, but if you need to put a 1/4in dowel in the hole, by the time you are past the first 3/16ths-1/4in, the hole will not be a nice and clean diameter, not perfectly straight.
I am going to get a drill press in a few weeks, as I have a new projects that needs lots of really large holes, and I will just move most of my drilling needs there. The Dremel is still useful for drilling into very small pieces, because the lack of torque means the drill bit won't require a clamped work piece.
@@willmorton6800
Good to know on the deeper holes. Hadn't considered that. My plans for getting one of these is for drilling pilot holes in 1/8 to 1/2 wood for scrollsawing. I have a larger drill press and it's just more than I need most of the time. So I am going to gain some workbench space with a smaller set up. Plus having the ability to turn the machine 90degrees will make sanding things much nicer behing able to old the piece with two hands. At least I'm hoping that is the case. LOL
@@MMWoodworking
You did know that the chrome pole is a two piece telescopic, right?
Yup. It twists and raises up.
@@MMWoodworking as I sound like a total tool. I discovered mine is a single pipe. Karma sucks. Sorry about my terrible candor in text.
Ya put the chuck spanner with the carrier spanner
Anyone know if this could be used to cut wood pieces in a straight line! Thanks
No, this Dremel isn't meant for cutting pieces of wood into smaller pieces of wood, in straight lines. You will need some sort of saw. Table saw, track saw, circular saw (aka skil saww), or jigsaw... something like that. That is in order of accuracy. The table saw is generally the default saw for most cuts.
Why is this sound level so low?
Yeah I had the volume at max, and kept on having to drop it when he turn the dremel on 👂💥
nice nice
You really should read the owners manual
Every time you moved the press the sound grated my nerves. Rubber bungs would have solved that problem.
It looks a bit cheap...............😑😑😑
It is. It's quite cheap. It's not a full blown drill press, and should not be thought of that way.
It's a Dremel accessory.
If you want a real drill press, but don't want to pay a ton, step up to the WEN 12in bench-top. I got one recently and have been very pleased. I still use the Dremel station for drilling on very tiny pieces, where the power of the Wen wants to grab the piece, but the piece is too tiny to clamp to my drill press table. For those pieces, the Dremel works.