A quick demonstration on how to fix a recess light that turns on and off automatically ~-~~-~~~-~~-~ Please watch: "{1}" www.youtube.co...{0} ~-~~-~~~-~~-~
Another option to consider instead of removing insulation would be to exchange that incandescent bulb for an led bulb. That might take less time to do and would allow the home to remain better insulated and save money on heating and cooling by not removing insulation.
Yeah that doesn’t work, I tried that and switch all my bulbs to LED’s and the two same recessed lights keep going out. It keeps driving me crazy, next thing to do is check the bulb connecter and housing connectors for loose wiring and or swap out the whole housing to new recessed design.
@@jfamousmsbc is it possible that the over temperature cutoff device has failed such that it cuts off at a much lower temperature than it’s supposed to? Example, it’s supposed to cut off at 200 degrees but instead cuts off at 100 degrees? If so, you could test this by testing different wattage bulbs and see if the cutoff time is proportional to the bulb wattage. Example, 40 watt bulb cuts off after 10 minutes, but 100 watt bulb cuts off in 5 minutes.
I've replaced all my bulbs in the house with LEDs and I still have one light in my kitchen bulkhead that goes out and then comes back on. When I built the house I know there is no insulation in this bulkhead. So I guess it could be a heat switch ?
If thermal overload causes ceiling light to flicker would switching to different type of bulb resolve the issue as opposed to pulling the fixture down?
If you replace the lamp, heat is still going to build up in the housing. The insulation around the fixture needs to be moved so that air can flow through it.
How about changing the bulbs to LEDs? I'm sorry, but you said that the reason that the power was cutting out to these lights was due to the thermal overload kicking in when the housing got too hot from the heat of the incandescent bulb inside. If that's the case, why wouldn't you just change out the bulbs with LEDs? Wouldn't that solve the problem? (No sarcasm intended) I just want to say, though, I appreciate you making this video and any other videos with a mind to help others. Thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you for the video. In some cases isn't it possible the temperature sensor might be faulty. Mine were 30 years old and apparently some were faulty. I replaced the fixtures and that fixed mine. More difficult than your fix. A couple of my faulty ones were between first and second floor where there was no insulation .
I have a 3-bulb light fixture with led bulbs in my kitchen and ONLY the middle bulb will turn on and back off ONCE every month or twice a month or once every 2 months, or 6 months etc. It's never consistent. There's no apparent reason or explanation. It's been doing this for the past 5 years since it was first installed. The other 2 bulbs in the fixture turn on and off together like they should when the switch on the wall is turned on and off. The middle bulb only does this when the switch is on and the other two bulbs are on. There's never been any flickering or diming from any of the bulbs and the fixture is mounted sturdy on the ceiling. Is there any explanation for this? I'm starting to now think it's just a "ghost" bulb!
Sounds like you might have a loose wire on the switch leg in one of the can lights and it is not sending voltage to the rest of the lights. You might want to check you hots and neutrals to make sure they are connected. Thank you for watching the video and subscribing.
Have you ever seen only the recessed LEDs pulse to the beat of the washing machine agitator? New house and it only does it when the washer is agitator is going back and forth. And it's every recessed light in the house.
Yes, there could be a few things causing this issue.The could be a neutral somewhere that is loose, the lights and the washer could be on the same circuit, or the electrical service to the house is not large enough to accommodate everything. This problem shows up when the incandescent lamp gets replaced with a LED lamp.
I have one out of 6 that is popping bulbs and flipping the breaker. All on the same switch and if I remove that bulb they all work. Put the bulb in and it pops the breaker. Three room use the same breaker and I can have them all on . What’s the issue?
Had a bunch of lights installed a few months ago. One (thankfully, within reach) began rattling recently. All you need to do to stop the rattle is push the trim ring against the ceiling. Or gently nudge the housing. Or nudge the bulb. But then the rattle returns minutes or hours later. Popping the ring and letting it hang ~1" from the locked position sees most of the sound diminish again...but then the rattle returns. The noise must be in the housing somewhere. I live in a condo with minimal attic access, but no tenants above. This pot lamp is above bed, and I find myself nudging 2-3x/night some nights ... then a few days without any rattles. Any thoughts? Many thanks...
ivyinvestor Thanks for the question. I would suggest that you remove the blurb and tighten the wingnut that is holding the lamp socket. It sounds like your bulb housing is slightly loose and is picking up some vibration. The wingnut is very easy to get to with the bulb removed and you can also adjust the reveal of the bulb height with this. . Let me know if this simple fix helps. Have a great day.
@@jarrettthejourneyman7196 Hi - appreciate the assistance from both of you. Unfortunately, when I pull down the trim ring, there is nothing user accessible in the housing. It appears that the spring clips are wound into the inner housing. I fear the rattle is either in that composite or outside of the can, which I cannot reach (also seems possible given that the rattles persist regardless of trim housing position). Argh!
ivyinvestor send me a picture of the inside of you light so I can see what’s up there. I am not giving up on this. You can send the pic to kanemonroeelectric@yahoo.com
Rodolfo Olivarez I would suggest checking the wire connections in the junction boxes of the lights. Turn the light switch off so there is no power to the lights and open up the junction, it sounds like there is a neutral that has come lose from the light that is not working. Make sure all black wires are connected together and all white wires are together in the junction boxes. This should solve your problem, if not please let me know.
I'm 30 years electrician now days nobody use incandescent bulbs anymore, now LED bulb and use 85 % less electricity, end no hot bulb. Install LED lamp cost $ 4.00 same type Problem solved.
+cong san You need to check the connection in the junction box on the light. Also make sure all other lights on that circuit are coming on, you may have a tripped breaker.
Wow it worked! Couldn’t figure out why my new LED bulbs would not work nor my old halogen bulbs that’s been there for 10 years. Thank you.
I am glad this helped you out, thanks for watching the video.
Thank you so much for your video. It worked!!! I was going to call an electrician. I think you saved me a ton of money. Have a great day!
Mark Sanders I am glad to hear that the video helped you out. Thanks for watching.
Very helpful .. much appreciated. Complete and extensive. Well done video.
fraser black Thank you for the compliment.
Meticulous work! Excellent.
Jared I hooked up 3 pot lights I wired 3 of them to the light that was previously in my kitchen
Thanks for an informative video and also answers to questions in the comments. Very helpful and appreciated.
I am glad the information helped, thanks for watching.
The insulation was what I thought possible. Will attempt to repair later today. Thanks
I hope the video helped.
Another option to consider instead of removing insulation would be to exchange that incandescent bulb for an led bulb. That might take less time to do and would allow the home to remain better insulated and save money on heating and cooling by not removing insulation.
I have LED's in my recessed lights and they still generate enough heat to set off the thermal overload.
Yeah that doesn’t work, I tried that and switch all my bulbs to LED’s and the two same recessed lights keep going out. It keeps driving me crazy, next thing to do is check the bulb connecter and housing connectors for loose wiring and or swap out the whole housing to new recessed design.
@@jfamousmsbc is it possible that the over temperature cutoff device has failed such that it cuts off at a much lower temperature than it’s supposed to? Example, it’s supposed to cut off at 200 degrees but instead cuts off at 100 degrees?
If so, you could test this by testing different wattage bulbs and see if the cutoff time is proportional to the bulb wattage. Example, 40 watt bulb cuts off after 10 minutes, but 100 watt bulb cuts off in 5 minutes.
I've replaced all my bulbs in the house with LEDs and I still have one light in my kitchen bulkhead that goes out and then comes back on. When I built the house I know there is no insulation in this bulkhead. So I guess it could be a heat switch ?
0:13 lm
If thermal overload causes ceiling light to flicker would switching to different type of bulb resolve the issue as opposed to pulling the fixture down?
If you replace the lamp, heat is still going to build up in the housing. The insulation around the fixture needs to be moved so that air can flow through it.
How about changing the bulbs to LEDs?
I'm sorry, but you said that the reason that the power was cutting out to these lights was due to the thermal overload kicking in when the housing got too hot from the heat of the incandescent bulb inside. If that's the case, why wouldn't you just change out the bulbs with LEDs? Wouldn't that solve the problem? (No sarcasm intended)
I just want to say, though, I appreciate you making this video and any other videos with a mind to help others. Thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you for the video. In some cases isn't it possible the temperature sensor might be faulty. Mine were 30 years old and apparently some were faulty. I replaced the fixtures and that fixed mine. More difficult than your fix. A couple of my faulty ones were between first and second floor where there was no insulation .
John thanks for watching. You are correct about an older sensor being faulty.
Since I have access to my attic, wouldn't it be easier to just remove insulation away from the can fixture while up there?
I hope you're the boss soon
I have a 3-bulb light fixture with led bulbs in my kitchen and ONLY the middle bulb will turn on and back off ONCE every month or twice a month or once every 2 months, or 6 months etc. It's never consistent. There's no apparent reason or explanation. It's been doing this for the past 5 years since it was first installed. The other 2 bulbs in the fixture turn on and off together like they should when the switch on the wall is turned on and off. The middle bulb only does this when the switch is on and the other two bulbs are on. There's never been any flickering or diming from any of the bulbs and the fixture is mounted sturdy on the ceiling.
Is there any explanation for this? I'm starting to now think it's just a "ghost" bulb!
I had six recessed cam lights fail at same time in kitchen! Switch works for other lights but it is a three way shared switch. Thoughts?
Sounds like you might have a loose wire on the switch leg in one of the can lights and it is not sending voltage to the rest of the lights. You might want to check you hots and neutrals to make sure they are connected.
Thank you for watching the video and subscribing.
Have you ever seen only the recessed LEDs pulse to the beat of the washing machine agitator? New house and it only does it when the washer is agitator is going back and forth. And it's every recessed light in the house.
Yes, there could be a few things causing this issue.The could be a neutral somewhere that is loose, the lights and the washer could be on the same circuit, or the electrical service to the house is not large enough to accommodate everything. This problem shows up when the incandescent lamp gets replaced with a LED lamp.
I have one out of 6 that is popping bulbs and flipping the breaker. All on the same switch and if I remove that bulb they all work. Put the bulb in and it pops the breaker. Three room use the same breaker and I can have them all on . What’s the issue?
Thank you for the info it worked well
Daniel McClatchy I am glad that worked for you. Thanks for watching.
Had a bunch of lights installed a few months ago. One (thankfully, within reach) began rattling recently. All you need to do to stop the rattle is push the trim ring against the ceiling. Or gently nudge the housing. Or nudge the bulb. But then the rattle returns minutes or hours later. Popping the ring and letting it hang ~1" from the locked position sees most of the sound diminish again...but then the rattle returns. The noise must be in the housing somewhere. I live in a condo with minimal attic access, but no tenants above. This pot lamp is above bed, and I find myself nudging 2-3x/night some nights ... then a few days without any rattles. Any thoughts? Many thanks...
ivyinvestor Thanks for the question. I would suggest that you remove the blurb and tighten the wingnut that is holding the lamp socket. It sounds like your bulb housing is slightly loose and is picking up some vibration. The wingnut is very easy to get to with the bulb removed and you can also adjust the reveal of the bulb height with this. . Let me know if this simple fix helps. Have a great day.
+ivyinvestor like mentioned above, tighten up the wingnut on the bracket. This will stop the rattling and make for a good night sleep.
@@jarrettthejourneyman7196 Hi - appreciate the assistance from both of you. Unfortunately, when I pull down the trim ring, there is nothing user accessible in the housing. It appears that the spring clips are wound into the inner housing. I fear the rattle is either in that composite or outside of the can, which I cannot reach (also seems possible given that the rattles persist regardless of trim housing position). Argh!
ivyinvestor send me a picture of the inside of you light so I can see what’s up there. I am not giving up on this. You can send the pic to kanemonroeelectric@yahoo.com
You did mention the thermal sensor. How can I disable the thermal sensor?
Thanks for watching, I don’t recommend disabling the sensor since it is there for safety purposes.it
That's exactly my problem
I have 2 lights next to each other but one won't turn on there's power in both
Rodolfo Olivarez I would suggest checking the wire connections in the junction boxes of the lights. Turn the light switch off so there is no power to the lights and open up the junction, it sounds like there is a neutral that has come lose from the light that is not working. Make sure all black wires are connected together and all white wires are together in the junction boxes. This should solve your problem, if not please let me know.
I wired 2 of them the previous one now they won't shut off
It sounds like you have a constant hot wire in the ceiling box. Make sure you connected the lights to the switch leg and not a constant hot.
I'm 30 years electrician now days nobody use incandescent bulbs anymore, now LED bulb and use 85 % less electricity, end no hot bulb. Install LED lamp cost
$ 4.00 same type
Problem solved.
isn't it possible that a temp sensor might be faulty?
There leds
After removing the insulation away from the lights and it still does not light up with the new bulbs. Any Ideas? Thanks.
+cong san You need to check the connection in the junction box on the light. Also make sure all other lights on that circuit are coming on, you may have a tripped breaker.
@@jarrettthejourneyman7196 The lights turn off one at a time. No circuit break was trip. Do I have a bad socket or thermostat? Thanks
@@congsan3528 It sounds like a bad thermostat. If the socket was bad, the light would not turn back on.
What's this the 1800s