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Sorry to be off topic but does anyone know a method to log back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb lost the password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me
A hint from an electrican, don't tuck the lights up in the ceiling until you have the switch installed and you can make sure they work. Some designs of these led are not real easy to get back out once installed and can damage the sheetrock.
@@weeeeehhhhh All depends on the local area and the type of building. Sparkys go by the national electric code (NEC) that is part of the national fire protection association (NFPA). At the end of the day the local code enforcement has to adopt it and enforce it. A "good" electrician will at least do the minimum the NEC calls for. There are some areas that some of us might think are not enough so we will do more.
@@user-neo71665 Do you have a tip for getting them out though? Our electricians installed them but one of the lights is set to the wrong temperature and it's driving me nuts. But alas, not easy to get out and I just finished repairing/painting the ceiling before I noticed the temp issue.
Best part of this video is that dust bowl. Watched many channels but none had that even the big channels and experienced one around 30 years :) .. excellent choice
Love how you go through each and every step in your process! Even the steps that don’t go quite as planned. It’s the perfect way to help teach problem solving and working around roadblocks.
Great mockup of the wall. Note that if you're working on an older home - the walls might have horizontal blocking at 48"~52" from the floor preventing you from passing the wire to the new electrical box, as many electrical boxes are set at 45"~48" on center. This would require you to cut another access hole above the block and drill a hole for the wire to pass through. Last summer (covid project) I remodeled our bathroom and used the wafer lights above the toilet and shower areas. They're fantastic as they give plenty of light and are so easy to install. The best quality of light for a bathroom is from the 4000K fixtures. I also used clear silicone to seal the light. Oh yeah, I left my wire strippers up in the attic too! One more thing, if you're going to put a ceiling fan up you have to be careful not to place too many or too close to the fan because you'll get a strobe effect (been there, done that)!. And you may find that the light from the ceiling fan is disappointing compared to the wafer lights.
What Kelvin (K) is recommended for other areas like a) kitchens b) living room and bedrooms and c) hallways? Aside from a specific use like watching a movie or something, I strongly dislike 2700K as an always-on temperature - it feels too dim and 70's looking to me.
@@progression_decibel 3k is pretty typical, 4k is good for bathrooms as its a much whiter light. We never install 2700k unless ppl ask for it, its way too dim
I am putting recessed lights in my kitchen. I hadn't seen the wafer lights before. I had never seen the dust collecting bowl either. Thanks for sharing. Very timely for me.
As an electrician for 30 years, you did a very good job with the video and explanation. Only suggestion would be using 14-3 from light to light etc. You then could of carried both the hot and the switchleg to the existing outlet and convert the switched outlet to unswitched.
yes. I would have cut the 14/3 about half way between the first light and second light. Then I would have used 14-3 between the two lights on that side and taken the other half of the run to the outlet and just abandon the red and replace the outlet with a non-broken outlet. Then I would have just run 14/2 to the other two lights. If the boxes for the wafer lights didn't have enough space for all the connections, I would have put a regular jbox up there. And I would have connected it with wire nuts, not those push-in connectors.
@@marist89 Yep that is the thing to do. Kind of fixed one problem and created a new one. Would of put a pancake box in for the fan why I was at it as well.
Third video now that has skipped the one part i actually care to see! How the wires feed into the lil boxes and how to daisy chain them off each other..
@@sandymiller6467 We just did them in my kitchen. Super easy. A. Buy the right size gage wire. (Either 12 or 14) my white wire was 14(smaller of the two 1. Turn breaker power off to lights in that room 2. Go to wire. Cut it and snip some off the ends to feed wires into the lil wire connectors that come with the light (in the lil box. They are awesome and super easy) match colors. 3. Cut a new piece of wire (the length youll need to reach next light whole) fray it and go from first box to second box. 4. Repeat until done 5. Turn power back on and enjoy! I got a pen that checks current just to be sure (klein brand if i remember)
Same brand I bought and installed about 8 months ago, Brad. I used them for my exterior soffits and porches though, not indoors ... 5 - 6 inch lights and 6 - 4 inchers to replace existing can lights. They are awesome! Many reasons for the swap but a big motivator for me was to eliminate places for wasps and mud daubers to take up residence which were a constant battle - the solid flush mount works great for that. In addition, not only do they look great and provide great lighting, they save you money too! They've all had a lot of use but the 4 inch lights have been run over 8+ hours every night since install and not a hint of trouble. Great choice!
@Jesus is LORD can you please don’t bring Bible quote into something that has nothing to do with salvation, what you are doing is making people stay away from believing who Jesus really is. There is a time and place for it, Religion is pushing away people from the truth of the work of the cross, the love that forgives all sins and from salvation for a new life in Jesus Christ. FYI I am a believer and follower of Jesus. Be blessed!
Those wafer lights are one of the greatest modern inventions. No cans, low heat, low draw, great looking......all around win. I installed, I think, a total of a dozen of them in my finished basement.
These wafer lights are SO easy! Since they are IC rated and rated for damp locations, I installed four of them in my front soffits as wash lights and put one in my bathroom above the shower! As an added bonus, I used one in my closets to satisfy the electrical inspector; they don't protrude into the space so there is no concern with the lights getting broken and starting a fire. Also, the LED uses so little power, I actually see the difference in my bill!
Figures i saw this video 2 DAYS AFTER HIRING AN ELECTRICIAN TO DO EXACTLY THIS. We just wanted a can light over the kitchen sink where there was already 6 can lights in the kitchen already. I watched him and he did pretty much what you did. Great video and thank you. Little things you added were more valuable than you probably recognize like using the non-contact voltage tester as well as why you were using gloves. Just remember that many of us watching these videos have ways lower DYI skills and its probably hard to even recognize how far down the learning curve we actually hard. Again, great job on this video and thanks for taking all the extra time while you just wanted to get some lighting in your house to video record, edit, and post videos for us all.
Hilarious how you mention not forgetting anything in the ceiling! Once I was installing lights just like these and when I was finished I went to take a picture for the client and remembered I was using my phones flashlight while pig tailing some wiring in the ceiling and left it up there! Thank goodness these are super simple and even easy to disassemble!
The algorithm has showed me some of your videos before and I've watched a few, however this video is incredibly timely as I'm about to do this in my basement. Subscribed.
Wafer lights are a game changer! Another solid video, FTBT! Now that the lights are on the red, install a new receptacle with the tab intact on the black and you will have 2 hot outlets on the wall. Cap the red.
Excellent video, especially for a non-electrician! As a helpful tip, always check the LED units to make sure they are dimmable if you plan to use a light dimmer and make sure the dimmer is compatible to use. You are lucky that the ceiling cable was NM (Non Metallic, aka Romex) and not BX, metal spiral clad electrical cable as you would not be able to accurately use you non-voltage contact tester. Keep up the great work/videos!
@@andrewmckinlay2964 no, on the metal cable itself but yes at the electrical box where the individual wire conductors are exposed outside the metal spiral cable. In other words, the metal spiral cable shields the individual wires from being detected whereas the plastic jacket around the wire in “Romex” wire allows the wires to be detected by the non-voltage detector anywhere along the live cable.
Blown insulation in the attic sucks when installing recessed lights, you have to make sure it's cleared away before you start cutting holes in the ceiling. Another tip is to buy 6" lights instead of 4", they give better coverage and the larger hole allows you to use both hands.
Great video. Thanks for not rushing through it and explaining everything thoroughly. I especially liked the mock up to show options depending on circumstances. Continued success!
Pro tip: when drilling the holes on the ceiling, put the drill in reverse first. Cut about 1/3 into ceiling, then switch back and finish the job. This way you would have a much smoother cut, and avoid banging your head with that drill！
Awesome video, Brad! I appreciate you mixing it up with some of these home improvement DIY videos. And great tip on "never drill blind" because did just that last Fall and nearly drill right into a live 20amp cable feeding an outlet on another wall. My advice when feeding down to a existing box (switch or outlet): just pull out the new work box nailed to the stud & replace it with an old work box. They're easy to cut out with an oscillating multi tool & saves you one drywall patch job!
Many ways to do this, but as an experienced electrician in your situation i would have turn off the power to the wire reached into the ceiling light hole closest to the outlet cut the wire with enough access to make a splice (outside the ceiling) in an approved box , pull the rest of the wire out of the first hole (near the switch) to make another splice in a sec box. And replace the wire between the two ceiling light holes.
You may not be a licensed electrician, but I've taken a home wiring course or two, with one, and you could have fooled me. You clearly do your homework.
If you need to fish a wire to the light switch you can always just remove the new work box and put in an old work box. I have now placed over 70 of these wafer lights in my home on the first floor and basement, they are a game changer.
I'm really good at putting in old work boxes with "battle ships" (the thin F-shaped straps you put on the outside of the box to apply counter pressure to keep the box in place.). 70 is a LOT of lights!!
I have these all over my home! We have trusses rather than 2x12 rafters so the best part is that when you want to add any type of wiring I just pop out the LED pots and can run the new wire without tearing out ceiling! Just toss the new wire from hole to hole! BTW, I have a lot of 8” wafers in my garage but used 6 inch in my kitchen and notice that the 8” will blink when the Lutron switch is turned on but the 6-inch does not... we used these in our church and the 8-inch do the same thing...
Dude, wafer lights are absolutely amazing. I installed a drop ceiling in our laundry room and wanted recessed lighting over cheesy looking fluorescent. Because of how high I needed to make the ceiling, it was super close to the joists and was impossible to install true cans. Picked up some 3/8" thick 6" wafers and love them. They even have an in-line switch to change the light color (K) to change from cooler or warmer.
I sent my helper to the supply house for wire nuts and he brought back the push connectors! Sent him home for the day! Not to mention we were running 14awg and he brought back 12awg connectors
Excellent video ... very well explained, demonstrated and produced. I'm a huge fan of LED lighting and surface mount lighting like this really revolutionizes projects like this. Thank you so much for taking the time to do such a wonderful job of sharing ... Cheers Mate!!
If you have a difficult wall or ceiling texture to repair match, You could also take down the crown and make access holes that the crown would cover when reinstalled. ... or if your room doesn’t have crown, it’s a nice opportunity to add it in lieu of a possible bad patch. Also consider rope light in a dropped crown as part of the lighting scheme.
Yeah, that's a great tip. Since my ceiling was smooth I felt like removing the crown would be a bigger pain (remove, reinstall, caulk, paint) so I would have gone below it
@@Fixthisbuildthat ...I realize I said ‘you’ and ‘your’ but It was really a tip to your other viewers that may have an older home with other challenges.
Wow...know this took a while to put together...thank you! Great information. Just wanted to confirm some ideas i had of how this would go. Making the mock up and going through how you would do it if you didn't have easy access was great - again thank you for painstakingly going through it all!
Licensed electrician here with 31-years of experience... homes are still wired without ceiling lights because they're not required by the code. The only (2) rooms in a house that requires a ceiling light (or wall sconce) are the bathroom(s) and kitchen. Brad offers a GREAT EXPLANATION of the 3-wire and the switched side vs the constant side of the receptacle. The split receptacle is required by the code because receptacles are required within 6' of any opening (such as a doorway) and no more than 12' apart along the wall line. If you are unsure even a little bit, dont hesitate to hire a licensed electrician. These lights with install are anywhere from $150-$225 each LED light.
Could you not have just added a new switch for the recessed lights and powered it off the existing outlet switch, and just left the outlet switch as is ?
All he did need to do is cut the 14/3 and put both ends in the first recess junction box. If the black wire is constant her splice both of the on the 14/3 send constant power to the outlet and the red wire coming from the switch becomes the switch leg for the lights. From there he daisy chain to feed the rest of the lights. So first light you gonna have 3 romex going in the junction box. Electrician here
Having done electrical work on existing homes... It would be AWESOME if it was a standard to make a schematic for the entire home that stays with the panel for all the future owners
People already don't want to pay electricians. Imagine the extra cost labeling every little wire into a diagram. And where it's running throughout the house. Builders would never hire someone like that. Builders use the cheapest guy for profits
I just purchased for a rental remodel, they look incredibly easy. As a short, 60yr lady with MS, I need easy with anything on a ladder, over my head.🤞🏻
Looks great! Just a tip, if you want it brighter dont think in more spots persee. Now you are spreading the light 180degrees and basically loosing a lot on the housing and diffuser. Try to use a led spot with a lens of 60 degrees by example. Or use 30 degrees and place them closer to your walls. Than you make an indirect light from your walls and you eliminate shadows. The flat leds are very popular but they have a very low cri. So while they are blinding you, you think they light up the place but they don’t.
Agreed. Wafers are really only useful for closets. A proper can with a good reflector is much more enjoyable. That glare would drive me nuts, especially for eyeglass wearers.
Set drill to driver mode and use the torque settings so it doesn't stick and cause the entire drill to spin and potentially hurt you. Works great for drywall since it is very easy to cut.
That drill dust collector tip is pure gold. In the past I've been using an old umbrella tipped upside down to catch the dust, but the drill still gets covered in dust. I'll be using the dust bowl in the future 👍
A quick fix to re-power the receptacle is to pull the slack end of the 14/3 to the pot light closest where the plug is. Run an additional wire between that pot and the first light brought the 14/3 to. You then can continue the constant power to the plug. Would be even better if you use 14/3 between those two lights. Much easier for box fill.
Great job on the step by step! Pro-tip- I would have installed a J-box or two to extend the three wire, on the wire in the ceiling you tapped for lighting switch leg. Adding one two wire whip for the lights and a second two wire whip as your feed for your future ceiling fan. I would have installed the power while the light holes were cut in for access. The J-box also would have provided the power for your outlet that still has to be re-fed... With so little time left for add ons, we try to land the plane, one time and then off to the next job. Thanks for the great work ethic!
I installed 24 of these lights on our house when we remodeled. I love them, and they definitely have a nice wow factor. Definitely get a good quality dimmer, they have a really nice range.
@@barsa901 this is the exact name on Amazon from my order, but they come in 2-packs, just giving you what I got. Lutron DVWCL-153PH-2-WH Diva 150-Watt Single Pole/3-Way LED/CFL Dimmer with Wallplate (2 Pack), White
I highly recommend investing in a $20 endoscope that is a quarter inch size. Then you can drill 1/4-in holes and insert the endoscope which can connect to your smartphone.
Here is some helpful advice. If the switch that controlled your outlet was on the opposite wall, and you had two lights cut into the ceiling between the switch and outlet, you could have run a piece of 14-3 between those two lights to connect your outlet again. the black would have stayed constant hot, and the red could be used as the switch-leg for the lights. this way you can have the outlet working again without cutting more holes in the drywall to run a new wire. Fiberglass fish sticks work a lot better at fishing through this type of ceiling too. Great job on the explanation though.
This really helped in an unexpected way. I have a couple rooms with those pesky switched outlets and wanted to disable that functionality, since the rooms already have overhead lights. Great to know that is possible simply by replacing the outlet with the tab intact! Thanks!
Although outlets are inexpensive, you could have just added a jumper wire. I don't know your specific situation so I can't give more details as there are several ways that the outlet circuit can be wired. I don't mean the outlet being wired, I mean the box that the outlet in question is attached to.
Hi Brad Great job mate I'm just trying to catch up on some of your older videos as you know iv not been following you that long and id love to try and watch as much as I can. Thanks mate 👍👍👍👍
Great upgrade, Brad~! That's a great alternative to installing the old conventional can lights. Especially when you have a 2-story house. Thanks for the video~!
Most 2 story houses are not constructed like this, and he didn't show that. Most of the time in a 2 story house, you would not be able to do this so easily on the 1st floor ceiling, because you have joists that you'd have to drill through to get wire between the lights (there's a room above that, and the floor of that room is on the top of the joists. The ceiling of the first floor is directly in the bottom of those same joists and they are solid). That means you would have to cut holes in the ceiling on each side of every joist so that you can drill each them and be able to pass the wire through to the next light in st least one direction coming from the first light that is powered from the switch. You'd have a ton of holes to patch and paint in the ceiling (and possibly re-texture and blend in, if there's a ceiling texture). Plus the two holes you cut, that he showed, to get the wire from the switch through the top plate of the wall to get into the joist space).
This video is awesome! I have the same scenario but put off installing recessed lighting because thinking there’s so much more into it. But this video with the wafer lighting is a perfect solution👍🏽 Thanks so much now I know what to do.
I just put 16 of these throughout my basement, they are great! I bought ones that have 5 different white temperatures (set with a switch on each box) since I plan on painting after and haven't picked the colour yet. Another tip, mine needed a 4 1/8" hole saw but I only had a 4" one. I used the 4" one, then shaved the hole a little bigger all around using a drywall saw, rather than spending $30 on a hole saw I probably wouldn't use again.
If you wanted to keep constant power on the other half of that plug, joint that 3 wire in the box and run the switch leg to your pot lights and tie the blacks together so they run through to the plug, then replace your plug with one that isn’t split. Then you have your plug with constant power and your switched pot lights. This will only work however if you have enough slack
As for that dust collector, it's great if you have tons of holes to do... if not... save about $20 and use a large Glad bowl and a longer drill extension.
Those lights are life savers for remodeling. I had the same experience with that hole saw. It jumped on me big time. I'll try going in reverse next time I need it.
Removed the builder grade ceiling light with 2 60w incandescent lamps and installed 4 6” Dimmable LED’s in my kitchen last year. I cut so many holes in the ceiling running 14/2 my wife thought I had lost my mind! But now - NOW - different opinion on my mind 😁 And the kitchen is on the first floor. Bedroom above.
That dust bowl was really cool, as someone who's gotten a face full of drywall dust just drilling regular holes in the ceiling I can't imagine how bad that would have been. 😬
For wiring the light, another (gutsy) thing you could have tried is to disconnect the wire at the light then attach a pull cord to it and reach up in the ceiling for the wire an pull. Once you had the cord and the wire, you could attach your LED wiring to it and them use the cord hanging our of the switch plate to pull everything back. Now you have can put the original wiring back and you now have your LED power wire too.
You can still power the outlet off of that same wire. Just tap I to the existing wire as intended but leave the black alone and splice into your ground, neutral, and red(switched) hot wire, swap the outlet as mentioned with a new outlet.
unfortunately I had to move the wire too far to hit the hole for the light. And you can't add a junction box covered in a ceiling. If the pig tails for the lights were longer that would have worked
@@Fixthisbuildthat hopefully they didn't staple the outlet wire. If it is not stapled, it could be used as a pull string to pull a new slightly longer 14/2 that you can join at the light instead of going all the way back to the switch box.
Well done Brad. I was going to suggest watching Jeff install them on last week's live but out of respect for your channel. Didn't feel was right place to suggest it. Between you and him I've learned alot over the last year. And will be replacing my can lights with these. As part of my basement restore after flood last summer
Great video editing pace and I had to take a double take on your split screen showing your 'twin' helping! One thing to keep in mind is that the code requires 1/16" steel backing plates (I think that is the term) to protect wires running closer than 1 1/4" to the surface of the 2x4 so it might be better to move the cable before drilling rather than drill near one side or the other of the 2x4 framing. Those plates would be nearly impossible to install as old work.
In your scenario losing constant power to your outlet was completely avoidable without running any wires down the walls. You simply needed to run a 14/3 wire between the two recessed lights parallel to the existing wire. Rather than 14/2. And connect both sides of the existing wire rather than one side. Doing so allows constant power to continue through on the black wire. If your wafer Jbox is to small you may have to add a second Jbox on one side easily accessible through the same hole.
Fluke is also a dependable hot stick. As an electrician, I really recommend not getting the hot sticks or tics that have lights on the end! I went through a couple of those, and they get to where they are not dependable very quickly. just a FYI. and those dust bowl are great. I bought one that comes with an adjustable blade; two arms that adjust by an allen wrench and the arm has measurements on it so you know what size you are extending to; not sure if I got it at Locke supply or where I got it now lol but it's pretty handy but not sure I would use it on anything but sheetrock, but it is great for cutting holes in sheetrock and you can do any hole with one hole saw instead of spending a lot of money on multiple hole saws. I think it grabs less too! It has blades on it and not teeth.
There is a scientific approach to follow for layout, but I'm an engineer and not a lighting designer. This prevents shadows between light beams, which looks terrible and feels like a tunnel. What you need to know is: 1. Beam angle (the beam creates a Conical Frustum shape for each light) - narrower beam angle means more lights needed 2. Ceiling height - lower ceiling means beams intersect closer to the ground - more lights needed Lay out the lights so that the beams intersect above the average person's height. 6' is a good place to be. Trigonometry is required. Also, make sure the beam intersection is 6' or above around the edge of the room, as well.
These are not same as older pot light where the beam angles would be of concern. These flat led lights basically disperse light in a very wide angle and fill the room much more evenly
Common practice with switched outlets is what you are finding at your switch box. The black wire loops around the screw and the Red wire is switched. Then the 3 conductor cable goes out to the outlet where generally half of the duplex plug is tied to constant power and half is switched.
Great video, and well explained. My only criticism would be that you really didn't need to run a brand new wire to the outlet formerly controlled by the switch. The bottom of the outlet is fed by a different wire - not the one from the switch, therefore, all you needed to do was cap the red wire and tuck it in the back of the box, replace the duplex outlet with a new one with an unbroken bridge, and the wire that supplied the constant electricity would have powered both top and bottom.
totally agree. He messed up with cutting the wire at the attic and killed an outlet,plus leaving a wire hanging in the attic that could potentially be a fire hazard if someone puts power into it in the future. He coulve just got power for his lights from the outlet by putting new wires.
@@guyzer6197 Why not add a box in the attic and branch off the red for hot for the new lights. Keep black as it is and get a new outlet that is bridged.
I'm not an electrician by any stretch of the imagination, just have construction experience. But just a heads up: If you plan to do this in the US and it has to pass inspection, I'm fairly certain NEC Code requires the junction box has to be secured. He did mention it can be secured in the video, but I would secure it to be safe guys!
These lights are cool. Installed them in a living room a few years ago and also in the soffit over my garage doors and they give a ton of light. Looks nice and added safety also.
@@marcmarcmarc681 They are LED so should last 30000+ hours depending on the light. I don't know if just the wafer portion can be replaced or if the whole thing needs replaced but it would be quite awhile before needing to be replaced.
Missing the biggest reason I watched this entire video.....how did all the lights get connected and wired with no attic access? Feel like I wasted nearly 20 minutes and have no idea why that was left out!
Thanks for sharing this Brad. This is a something that I’ve been wanting to do for a few of the rooms in my house that just have lamps that are on switch run outlets. I have done a far amount of electrical work in the past so I’m competent enough to do that but I just haven’t been sure about how to deal with the outlets and also how to run the lines for the lights where there isn’t any existing ones there that I’m aware of. Lots of great information, thanks again Brad.
I recommend put the drill in high speed. There’s less torque, less kick back. Never use an insulated screwdriver. Just drill the centre hole, then poke up a coat hanger that’s cut, bend a right angle in it that’s the radius of the light fitting and spin it. This will mean you’ll have clearance from the roof timber. DIY electrical scares me, as seen some seriously unsafe stuff.
I have the exact same lights from amazon. Thanks for the video. I’m not a electrician either so I was searching on TH-cam for people who have done this set up. It seems pretty simple enough. I don’t think I need to run wires because I am just putting this in the old fixtures. But if I want to add more I may need to purchase cables/wires so I do four like that in one room. Well see. But this one of the better videos I found so thank you.
@@1stNCYANKEE I got 12 at 100$ something on Amazon. Also using that whole saw was difficult. I use a combo of that an dry wall saw. Some of my wholes aren’t perfect and need to be patched but the wiring is easy. The hardest part was cutting the wholes.
You could have added an extra ceiling box and used it as a junction box to tap into that 14-3 line. This would allow you to keep using the constant power black at the outlet and divert the red power to your lights. Afterward, just cover the new ceiling box with a blank plate and paint to match the ceiling. Alternatively, you could use the junction box of the light to accomplish the same thing if there is enough slack in the original line. Bring the original line into the first box. Use a 14-3 to get the red across the room to another of your lights. Then use the junction box of that second light to tie back into the original line that feeds the receptacle biox.
So you are saying he could have splice 14-3 into 14-2 and connect those recessed lights to 14-2? That way his outlets are there and also got power for his recessed light?
@@hardikrana6403 Exactly. In the original existing 14-3 Romex, red wire (lighting) power comes from the switch and black wire (outlet) power is constant. Here is what I would have done: 1. Add an old work box in the ceiling. I would place it out of the way in the corner, closer to the existing wire. 2. Cut the existing wire so that one end (the wire coming up from the switch) can be pulled over to the light location as shown on the video and the other end (the wire continuing down to the outlets) can be pulled over to the new junction box. 3. Run a new section of 14-3 Romex between the light location and the junction box. 4. Run a new section of 14-2 Romex between the first light location and the next light location. 5. In the junction box, connect black to black, red to red, neutral to neutral, and ground to ground. This will keep the existing power to the outlet so you can keep using it as a switched outlet or you can cap off the red wire in the outlet box and use a new outlet as shown in the video. You can place a blank plate over this junction box and paint it to match the ceiling. 6. In the light location, make the following connections inside the light's junction box. a. All ground wires connected together. Input wire from switch, output wire to junction box, wire to first light fixture, and 14-2 wire out to the next light fixture. b. All neutral wires connected together. Input wire from switch, output wire to junction box, wire to first light fixture, and 14-2 wire out to the next light fixture. c. Two red lighting power wires (input wire from switch & output wire to junction box) are connected to two black wires (one to the first light fixture and one to the 14-2 wire out to the next light fixture). Note that the black wires of the ceiling lights now carry the switched lighting power around to the light fixtures. d. Two black outlet power wires (input wire from switch, output wire to junction box) are connected together. DO NOT connect these wires to the lighting fixture or the wires leading out to the next fixture. These wires carry the outlet power back down to the original outlet so that it continues to function in the same way. In the video, it appears that he left the wire leading down to the outlet abandoned in the ceiling and removed the outlet entirely. His installation could be retrofitted by my method to restore power to that outlet, with or without the switched function.
@@chrisboyd4433 wow, thank you so much for taking time to explain this. Not related to this..We recently purchased a house. In most of the area builder provided pre wiring for ceiling fan. Today i was trying to install the ceiling fan and noticed that both red and black wires have constant power. They provided 2 switches, even if i turn the switch off those 2 wires still shows reading in power tester. Do you think its normal? Or they messed up there. I installed the fan and i can only control the fan/light by using the remote. Switch doesn’t do anything. Your input would be greatly appreciated.
Excellent video. Loved how you explained any and every issue someone would have on installing these lights. One question, what CAD program you used in the video. Thanks Buddy
One thing you should do before adding lights, is find out what else is on the circuit. You're only allowed 12 fixtures. Sometimes the convenient circuit won't work out.
@@daveperryLXXVII We're talking about adding into a existing circuit which could include receptacles. The code states that more than 12 fixtures are allowed if the loads are static, and obviously not overloading the circuit. So 20 LED lights might meet code, but 1 receptacle in the circuit means no more than 11 lights regardless of the draw.
@@FullCircleTravis That's totally false information that you are giving. It depends what size rcd is on that circuit could be 10 or 15 and also depends how much amps the lights are drawing. No such rule exists. 12 fixtures. Never heard anything like that in my 30years.
Awesome video. Only thing i would do different is avoid make additional holes to fish the line. There are some nice tricks available to fish a line up and over a corner onto the ceiling. A simple wooden broom stick with a weighed object attached to it via a string is great help. You can even get fancy and use the magnetic fishing tool as well.
I just had this done in two rooms of my house. The electrician butchered the ceilings when he was cutting holes to run the lines, though, and it was a bear to fix it. I should have just done it myself.
Great video and explanation!! I’m not sure if you are aware but according to the NEC code that if you extend an electrical circuit 6 feet or more you have to use an AFCI circuit breaker if it is not already one.
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I want to work in the electricity business
@@kaykay037 Could you please help me?
Dear, how can i contact with you, do you have wechat? You can add me😘
Sorry to be off topic but does anyone know a method to log back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb lost the password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me
@Archer Kayson Instablaster :)
A hint from an electrican, don't tuck the lights up in the ceiling until you have the switch installed and you can make sure they work. Some designs of these led are not real easy to get back out once installed and can damage the sheetrock.
I just learned this the hard way...........oops.
Do you have regulations for fire rated recessed ceiling lights?
@@weeeeehhhhh All depends on the local area and the type of building. Sparkys go by the national electric code (NEC) that is part of the national fire protection association (NFPA). At the end of the day the local code enforcement has to adopt it and enforce it.
A "good" electrician will at least do the minimum the NEC calls for. There are some areas that some of us might think are not enough so we will do more.
@@user-neo71665 Do you have a tip for getting them out though? Our electricians installed them but one of the lights is set to the wrong temperature and it's driving me nuts. But alas, not easy to get out and I just finished repairing/painting the ceiling before I noticed the temp issue.
@@jemmabarls it all depends on the mounting style. Without seeing it or even knowing I have dealt with the style before I can't say.
Best part of this video is that dust bowl.
Watched many channels but none had that even the big channels and experienced one around 30 years :) .. excellent choice
Drlling the hole with the dust all collected on the bowl is just so ✨SATISFYING✨
that dust bowl is amazing!
Forbidden pancake mix
Love how you go through each and every step in your process! Even the steps that don’t go quite as planned. It’s the perfect way to help teach problem solving and working around roadblocks.
Great mockup of the wall. Note that if you're working on an older home - the walls might have horizontal blocking at 48"~52" from the floor preventing you from passing the wire to the new electrical box, as many electrical boxes are set at 45"~48" on center. This would require you to cut another access hole above the block and drill a hole for the wire to pass through. Last summer (covid project) I remodeled our bathroom and used the wafer lights above the toilet and shower areas. They're fantastic as they give plenty of light and are so easy to install. The best quality of light for a bathroom is from the 4000K fixtures. I also used clear silicone to seal the light. Oh yeah, I left my wire strippers up in the attic too! One more thing, if you're going to put a ceiling fan up you have to be careful not to place too many or too close to the fan because you'll get a strobe effect (been there, done that)!. And you may find that the light from the ceiling fan is disappointing compared to the wafer lights.
What Kelvin (K) is recommended for other areas like a) kitchens b) living room and bedrooms and c) hallways? Aside from a specific use like watching a movie or something, I strongly dislike 2700K as an always-on temperature - it feels too dim and 70's looking to me.
@@progression_decibel 3k is pretty typical, 4k is good for bathrooms as its a much whiter light. We never install 2700k unless ppl ask for it, its way too dim
It’s personal preference as well, we have 2700 throughout our house and love it, feels cozier to us.
I am putting recessed lights in my kitchen. I hadn't seen the wafer lights before. I had never seen the dust collecting bowl either. Thanks for sharing. Very timely for me.
Glad it was helpful!
I replaced all of the existing pots lights with these and I have installed several where none existed. I love these lights.
Make sure your ceiling fan blades do not cross the light coming out of the LEDs or else your entire room will become a strobe light.
🎶Boots & pants🎶
I'm actually living with that uneducated decision as we speak. smh
Good advice, Allan! Hindsight is 2020
Staying alive, staying alive…
Ohh man. I have this issue. It's super annoying!
The rule of thumb is 5 feet from the edge of the blade
As an electrician for 30 years, you did a very good job with the video and explanation. Only suggestion would be using 14-3 from light to light etc. You then could of carried both the hot and the switchleg to the existing outlet and convert the switched outlet to unswitched.
I thought he was keeping the 14-3 to the outlet and just splicing in 14-2 to run to the other lights.
yes. I would have cut the 14/3 about half way between the first light and second light. Then I would have used 14-3 between the two lights on that side and taken the other half of the run to the outlet and just abandon the red and replace the outlet with a non-broken outlet. Then I would have just run 14/2 to the other two lights. If the boxes for the wafer lights didn't have enough space for all the connections, I would have put a regular jbox up there. And I would have connected it with wire nuts, not those push-in connectors.
14-3 🤦♂️🤣🤣
@@godofwar4271 ?
@@marist89 Yep that is the thing to do. Kind of fixed one problem and created a new one. Would of put a pancake box in for the fan why I was at it as well.
Third video now that has skipped the one part i actually care to see! How the wires feed into the lil boxes and how to daisy chain them off each other..
This is what I am also wondering. I have existing lights and want to add more
@@sandymiller6467 We just did them in my kitchen. Super easy.
A. Buy the right size gage wire. (Either 12 or 14) my white wire was 14(smaller of the two
1. Turn breaker power off to lights in that room
2. Go to wire. Cut it and snip some off the ends to feed wires into the lil wire connectors that come with the light (in the lil box. They are awesome and super easy) match colors.
3. Cut a new piece of wire (the length youll need to reach next light whole) fray it and go from first box to second box.
4. Repeat until done
5. Turn power back on and enjoy!
I got a pen that checks current just to be sure (klein brand if i remember)
@@romondoalexander8851would it be easiest to connect an existing ceiling fan at the end of the circuit?
@@heyyheyyhannah5217 might be. I'm not sure.
Same brand I bought and installed about 8 months ago, Brad. I used them for my exterior soffits and porches though, not indoors ... 5 - 6 inch lights and 6 - 4 inchers to replace existing can lights. They are awesome! Many reasons for the swap but a big motivator for me was to eliminate places for wasps and mud daubers to take up residence which were a constant battle - the solid flush mount works great for that. In addition, not only do they look great and provide great lighting, they save you money too! They've all had a lot of use but the 4 inch lights have been run over 8+ hours every night since install and not a hint of trouble. Great choice!
good to hear! Hoping this will last the life of my house (our at least the life I'm here)
@Jesus is LORD WTF?
@Jesus is LORD can you please don’t bring Bible quote into something that has nothing to do with salvation, what you are doing is making people stay away from believing who Jesus really is. There is a time and place for it, Religion is pushing away people from the truth of the work of the cross, the love that forgives all sins and from salvation for a new life in Jesus Christ.
FYI I am a believer and follower of Jesus.
Be blessed!
@jesusislord6545get lost
Those wafer lights are one of the greatest modern inventions. No cans, low heat, low draw, great looking......all around win. I installed, I think, a total of a dozen of them in my finished basement.
We've been installing them for 6 years now. If a client wants the traditional cans, they have to request them.
These wafer lights are SO easy! Since they are IC rated and rated for damp locations, I installed four of them in my front soffits as wash lights and put one in my bathroom above the shower!
As an added bonus, I used one in my closets to satisfy the electrical inspector; they don't protrude into the space so there is no concern with the lights getting broken and starting a fire.
Also, the LED uses so little power, I actually see the difference in my bill!
Figures i saw this video 2 DAYS AFTER HIRING AN ELECTRICIAN TO DO EXACTLY THIS. We just wanted a can light over the kitchen sink where there was already 6 can lights in the kitchen already. I watched him and he did pretty much what you did. Great video and thank you. Little things you added were more valuable than you probably recognize like using the non-contact voltage tester as well as why you were using gloves. Just remember that many of us watching these videos have ways lower DYI skills and its probably hard to even recognize how far down the learning curve we actually hard. Again, great job on this video and thanks for taking all the extra time while you just wanted to get some lighting in your house to video record, edit, and post videos for us all.
Hilarious how you mention not forgetting anything in the ceiling! Once I was installing lights just like these and when I was finished I went to take a picture for the client and remembered I was using my phones flashlight while pig tailing some wiring in the ceiling and left it up there! Thank goodness these are super simple and even easy to disassemble!
The algorithm has showed me some of your videos before and I've watched a few, however this video is incredibly timely as I'm about to do this in my basement. Subscribed.
Wafer lights are a game changer! Another solid video, FTBT! Now that the lights are on the red, install a new receptacle with the tab intact on the black and you will have 2 hot outlets on the wall. Cap the red.
Thanks! Definitely changing out that outlet soon
Excellent video, especially for a non-electrician! As a helpful tip, always check the LED units to make sure they are dimmable if you plan to use a light dimmer and make sure the dimmer is compatible to use. You are lucky that the ceiling cable was NM (Non Metallic, aka Romex) and not BX, metal spiral clad electrical cable as you would not be able to accurately use you non-voltage contact tester. Keep up the great work/videos!
How do i know of the dimmer is compatible?
@@bobloblaw7649 The Dimmer will state it is either for LED lights or for incandescent lights.
@@bobloblaw7649 the company that makes the dimmer switch will have a list of compatible bulbs. Either in the instructions or on their website.
Will the voltage tester beep if it encounters metal spiral clad cable?
@@andrewmckinlay2964 no, on the metal cable itself but yes at the electrical box where the individual wire conductors are exposed outside the metal spiral cable. In other words, the metal spiral cable shields the individual wires from being detected whereas the plastic jacket around the wire in “Romex” wire allows the wires to be detected by the non-voltage detector anywhere along the live cable.
Blown insulation in the attic sucks when installing recessed lights, you have to make sure it's cleared away before you start cutting holes in the ceiling. Another tip is to buy 6" lights instead of 4", they give better coverage and the larger hole allows you to use both hands.
Great video. Thanks for not rushing through it and explaining everything thoroughly. I especially liked the mock up to show options depending on circumstances. Continued success!
Pro tip: when drilling the holes on the ceiling, put the drill in reverse first. Cut about 1/3 into ceiling, then switch back and finish the job. This way you would have a much smoother cut, and avoid banging your head with that drill！
Thanks for that!!
@@Grumpyskater or if you chuck has a torque setting try turning it down so if it do hook, it don't knock your teeth out.
He said that in the video.
Awesome video, Brad! I appreciate you mixing it up with some of these home improvement DIY videos. And great tip on "never drill blind" because did just that last Fall and nearly drill right into a live 20amp cable feeding an outlet on another wall.
My advice when feeding down to a existing box (switch or outlet): just pull out the new work box nailed to the stud & replace it with an old work box. They're easy to cut out with an oscillating multi tool & saves you one drywall patch job!
20 amp outlet XD damn
Many ways to do this, but as an experienced electrician in your situation i would have turn off the power to the wire reached into the ceiling light hole closest to the outlet cut the wire with enough access to make a splice (outside the ceiling) in an approved box , pull the rest of the wire out of the first hole (near the switch) to make another splice in a sec box. And replace the wire between the two ceiling light holes.
I'm not sure I understand. Where would the boxes go?
Great job Brad. Cheers!
Thanks, Jeff! Definitely used your video as guidance and running the drill backwards was such an awesome tip I wanted to pass it on 💪💪
See Jeff wealth of info. The DIY encyclopaedia
The Legend himself.
😉
Jeff is here guys 😅😅
You may not be a licensed electrician, but I've taken a home wiring course or two, with one, and you could have fooled me. You clearly do your homework.
I know enough to be dangerous 😀
If you need to fish a wire to the light switch you can always just remove the new work box and put in an old work box. I have now placed over 70 of these wafer lights in my home on the first floor and basement, they are a game changer.
I'm really good at putting in old work boxes with "battle ships" (the thin F-shaped straps you put on the outside of the box to apply counter pressure to keep the box in place.). 70 is a LOT of lights!!
I have these all over my home! We have trusses rather than 2x12 rafters so the best part is that when you want to add any type of wiring I just pop out the LED pots and can run the new wire without tearing out ceiling! Just toss the new wire from hole to hole! BTW, I have a lot of 8” wafers in my garage but used 6 inch in my kitchen and notice that the 8” will blink when the Lutron switch is turned on but the 6-inch does not... we used these in our church and the 8-inch do the same thing...
Dude, wafer lights are absolutely amazing. I installed a drop ceiling in our laundry room and wanted recessed lighting over cheesy looking fluorescent. Because of how high I needed to make the ceiling, it was super close to the joists and was impossible to install true cans. Picked up some 3/8" thick 6" wafers and love them. They even have an in-line switch to change the light color (K) to change from cooler or warmer.
I sent my helper to the supply house for wire nuts and he brought back the push connectors! Sent him home for the day! Not to mention we were running 14awg and he brought back 12awg connectors
Excellent video ... very well explained, demonstrated and produced. I'm a huge fan of LED lighting and surface mount lighting like this really revolutionizes projects like this. Thank you so much for taking the time to do such a wonderful job of sharing ... Cheers Mate!!
If you have a difficult wall or ceiling texture to repair match, You could also take down the crown and make access holes that the crown would cover when reinstalled.
... or if your room doesn’t have crown, it’s a nice opportunity to add it in lieu of a possible bad patch. Also consider rope light in a dropped crown as part of the lighting scheme.
Yeah, that's a great tip. Since my ceiling was smooth I felt like removing the crown would be a bigger pain (remove, reinstall, caulk, paint) so I would have gone below it
@@Fixthisbuildthat ...I realize I said ‘you’ and ‘your’ but It was really a tip to your other viewers that may have an older home with other challenges.
I've HAD to do this many times. It's much faster than repairing drywall.
I don't believe mudding and patching is that hard, plus you can sand it and try, try again 🤭
Wow...know this took a while to put together...thank you! Great information. Just wanted to confirm some ideas i had of how this would go. Making the mock up and going through how you would do it if you didn't have easy access was great - again thank you for painstakingly going through it all!
Licensed electrician here with 31-years of experience... homes are still wired without ceiling lights because they're not required by the code. The only (2) rooms in a house that requires a ceiling light (or wall sconce) are the bathroom(s) and kitchen. Brad offers a GREAT EXPLANATION of the 3-wire and the switched side vs the constant side of the receptacle. The split receptacle is required by the code because receptacles are required within 6' of any opening (such as a doorway) and no more than 12' apart along the wall line. If you are unsure even a little bit, dont hesitate to hire a licensed electrician. These lights with install are anywhere from $150-$225 each LED light.
He definitely could've still used that receptical if he junctioned his wires right. Electrician also💁♂️
Could you not have just added a new switch for the recessed lights and powered it off the existing outlet switch, and just left the outlet switch as is ?
@@stevenmorris2293 I'm thinking, yes, and this is what I would have done.
All he did need to do is cut the 14/3 and put both ends in the first recess junction box. If the black wire is constant her splice both of the on the 14/3 send constant power to the outlet and the red wire coming from the switch becomes the switch leg for the lights. From there he daisy chain to feed the rest of the lights. So first light you gonna have 3 romex going in the junction box. Electrician here
That's kinda pricey considering the actual wafer light these days is around 20 bucks
Having done electrical work on existing homes... It would be AWESOME if it was a standard to make a schematic for the entire home that stays with the panel for all the future owners
that would be heavenly!
People already don't want to pay electricians. Imagine the extra cost labeling every little wire into a diagram. And where it's running throughout the house. Builders would never hire someone like that. Builders use the cheapest guy for profits
I’ve been making one for my house because nothing matched the panel!
@@johnhorning2506 ikr... I've never seen one that was actually accurate
@@johnhorning2506Same. All labeled incorrectly.
I just purchased for a rental remodel, they look incredibly easy. As a short, 60yr lady with MS, I need easy with anything on a ladder, over my head.🤞🏻
Looks great! Just a tip, if you want it brighter dont think in more spots persee. Now you are spreading the light 180degrees and basically loosing a lot on the housing and diffuser. Try to use a led spot with a lens of 60 degrees by example. Or use 30 degrees and place them closer to your walls. Than you make an indirect light from your walls and you eliminate shadows. The flat leds are very popular but they have a very low cri. So while they are blinding you, you think they light up the place but they don’t.
Agreed. Wafers are really only useful for closets. A proper can with a good reflector is much more enjoyable. That glare would drive me nuts, especially for eyeglass wearers.
Just bought a house, and really wanna update the lighting inside. This will prove useful.
Set drill to driver mode and use the torque settings so it doesn't stick and cause the entire drill to spin and potentially hurt you. Works great for drywall since it is very easy to cut.
That drill dust collector tip is pure gold. In the past I've been using an old umbrella tipped upside down to catch the dust, but the drill still gets covered in dust. I'll be using the dust bowl in the future 👍
lol, I'd love to see pics of you using an umbrella
@@Fixthisbuildthat it's not graceful, that's for sure.
A quick fix to re-power the receptacle is to pull the slack end of the 14/3 to the pot light closest where the plug is. Run an additional wire between that pot and the first light brought the 14/3 to. You then can continue the constant power to the plug. Would be even better if you use 14/3 between those two lights. Much easier for box fill.
You are the first one to correctly explain how this should have been done.
@@frankgiardina4877 normally I just yell at my phone instead of commenting...
Great job on the step by step!
Pro-tip- I would have installed a J-box or two to extend the three wire, on the wire in the ceiling you tapped for lighting switch leg. Adding one two wire whip for the lights and a second two wire whip as your feed for your future ceiling fan. I would have installed the power while the light holes were cut in for access. The J-box also would have provided the power for your outlet that still has to be re-fed... With so little time left for add ons, we try to land the plane, one time and then off to the next job. Thanks for the great work ethic!
where would you have put the j-box? we are not allowed to hide them behind ceiling/wall. cheers
@@spydermcfly by using those recessed lights you have access and in New York, are allowed to put a jbox
Great work Brad & glad that I watched this video because now I know why I always call an electrician! 👍👍😉😉
hahaha, no doubt, Steve!
I installed 24 of these lights on our house when we remodeled. I love them, and they definitely have a nice wow factor. Definitely get a good quality dimmer, they have a really nice range.
What dimmer did you use?
@@barsa901 this is the exact name on Amazon from my order, but they come in 2-packs, just giving you what I got. Lutron DVWCL-153PH-2-WH Diva 150-Watt Single Pole/3-Way LED/CFL Dimmer with Wallplate (2 Pack), White
I highly recommend investing in a $20 endoscope that is a quarter inch size. Then you can drill 1/4-in holes and insert the endoscope which can connect to your smartphone.
You can get one that's waterproof too and so you can use it pretty much anywhere.
Dang, that sounds awesome! I'll have to check it out. Didn't know they made ones that cheap
The ip67 water proof ones are a little more. The one I have was 35.
I have one that sends the signal via WiFi to an app on my phone. I think it was about $40. Works well.
Here is some helpful advice. If the switch that controlled your outlet was on the opposite wall, and you had two lights cut into the ceiling between the switch and outlet, you could have run a piece of 14-3 between those two lights to connect your outlet again. the black would have stayed constant hot, and the red could be used as the switch-leg for the lights. this way you can have the outlet working again without cutting more holes in the drywall to run a new wire. Fiberglass fish sticks work a lot better at fishing through this type of ceiling too. Great job on the explanation though.
This really helped in an unexpected way. I have a couple rooms with those pesky switched outlets and wanted to disable that functionality, since the rooms already have overhead lights. Great to know that is possible simply by replacing the outlet with the tab intact! Thanks!
Although outlets are inexpensive, you could have just added a jumper wire. I don't know your specific situation so I can't give more details as there are several ways that the outlet circuit can be wired. I don't mean the outlet being wired, I mean the box that the outlet in question is attached to.
Hi Brad
Great job mate I'm just trying to catch up on some of your older videos as you know iv not been following you that long and id love to try and watch as much as I can. Thanks mate 👍👍👍👍
enjoy!
Great upgrade, Brad~! That's a great alternative to installing the old conventional can lights. Especially when you have a 2-story house. Thanks for the video~!
yes, perfect situation to use them in!
Most 2 story houses are not constructed like this, and he didn't show that. Most of the time in a 2 story house, you would not be able to do this so easily on the 1st floor ceiling, because you have joists that you'd have to drill through to get wire between the lights (there's a room above that, and the floor of that room is on the top of the joists. The ceiling of the first floor is directly in the bottom of those same joists and they are solid). That means you would have to cut holes in the ceiling on each side of every joist so that you can drill each them and be able to pass the wire through to the next light in st least one direction coming from the first light that is powered from the switch. You'd have a ton of holes to patch and paint in the ceiling (and possibly re-texture and blend in, if there's a ceiling texture). Plus the two holes you cut, that he showed, to get the wire from the switch through the top plate of the wall to get into the joist space).
Thanks for sharing. I am working on our home studio and this was extremely helpful.
This video is awesome! I have the same scenario but put off installing recessed lighting because thinking there’s so much more into it. But this video with the wafer lighting is a perfect solution👍🏽 Thanks so much now I know what to do.
I put those exact lights in my kitchen remodel! I love them!! I put 10 in the kitchen and its definitely not too many.
I just put 16 of these throughout my basement, they are great! I bought ones that have 5 different white temperatures (set with a switch on each box) since I plan on painting after and haven't picked the colour yet. Another tip, mine needed a 4 1/8" hole saw but I only had a 4" one. I used the 4" one, then shaved the hole a little bigger all around using a drywall saw, rather than spending $30 on a hole saw I probably wouldn't use again.
This explained my red wiring around the house better than anything I found. Thank you!
If you wanted to keep constant power on the other half of that plug, joint that 3 wire in the box and run the switch leg to your pot lights and tie the blacks together so they run through to the plug, then replace your plug with one that isn’t split. Then you have your plug with constant power and your switched pot lights. This will only work however if you have enough slack
Exactly. I don't understand why the load side was discontinued. He could have just tapped in for the new lights and left the black to continue.
As for that dust collector, it's great if you have tons of holes to do... if not... save about $20 and use a large Glad bowl and a longer drill extension.
Those lights are life savers for remodeling. I had the same experience with that hole saw. It jumped on me big time. I'll try going in reverse next time I need it.
Removed the builder grade ceiling light with 2 60w incandescent lamps and installed 4 6” Dimmable LED’s in my kitchen last year. I cut so many holes in the ceiling running 14/2 my wife thought I had lost my mind!
But now - NOW - different opinion on my mind 😁
And the kitchen is on the first floor. Bedroom above.
That dust bowl was really cool, as someone who's gotten a face full of drywall dust just drilling regular holes in the ceiling I can't imagine how bad that would have been. 😬
Doing this this weekend with my buddy (he’s a union electrician so it should speed things up), thanks for the video and the links!
Nice work, Brad! Keep up the killer videos!
thanks, dude!
Thank you !! to share this proyect,, just i want to ask you can you make a video how to run the wires from one light to other, In advance thank you..
For wiring the light, another (gutsy) thing you could have tried is to disconnect the wire at the light then attach a pull cord to it and reach up in the ceiling for the wire an pull. Once you had the cord and the wire, you could attach your LED wiring to it and them use the cord hanging our of the switch plate to pull everything back. Now you have can put the original wiring back and you now have your LED power wire too.
Romex is stapled. There is no chasing wires in residential.
the detail and effort put into this video is amazing.
You can still power the outlet off of that same wire. Just tap I to the existing wire as intended but leave the black alone and splice into your ground, neutral, and red(switched) hot wire, swap the outlet as mentioned with a new outlet.
unfortunately I had to move the wire too far to hit the hole for the light. And you can't add a junction box covered in a ceiling. If the pig tails for the lights were longer that would have worked
@@Fixthisbuildthat hopefully they didn't staple the outlet wire. If it is not stapled, it could be used as a pull string to pull a new slightly longer 14/2 that you can join at the light instead of going all the way back to the switch box.
Well done Brad. I was going to suggest watching Jeff install them on last week's live but out of respect for your channel. Didn't feel was right place to suggest it. Between you and him I've learned alot over the last year. And will be replacing my can lights with these. As part of my basement restore after flood last summer
Jeff is awesome, such a wealth of knowledge. I'm just cobbling it together as I go with help from guys like him :)
That's the cleanest attic I've ever seen lol
Wow...Awesome job! I am about to install a junction box for the new light the room, but I think your option is much better. Thank you for posting it.
Great video editing pace and I had to take a double take on your split screen showing your 'twin' helping! One thing to keep in mind is that the code requires 1/16" steel backing plates (I think that is the term) to protect wires running closer than 1 1/4" to the surface of the 2x4 so it might be better to move the cable before drilling rather than drill near one side or the other of the 2x4 framing. Those plates would be nearly impossible to install as old work.
Just bought my first house glad I found your Channel. Thanks
In your scenario losing constant power to your outlet was completely avoidable without running any wires down the walls. You simply needed to run a 14/3 wire between the two recessed lights parallel to the existing wire. Rather than 14/2. And connect both sides of the existing wire rather than one side. Doing so allows constant power to continue through on the black wire. If your wafer Jbox is to small you may have to add a second Jbox on one side easily accessible through the same hole.
Or just set a box, splice to the light with the red, and to the outlet with the black…
Fluke is also a dependable hot stick. As an electrician, I really recommend not getting the hot sticks or tics that have lights on the end! I went through a couple of those, and they get to where they are not dependable very quickly. just a FYI. and those dust bowl are great. I bought one that comes with an adjustable blade; two arms that adjust by an allen wrench and the arm has measurements on it so you know what size you are extending to; not sure if I got it at Locke supply or where I got it now lol but it's pretty handy but not sure I would use it on anything but sheetrock, but it is great for cutting holes in sheetrock and you can do any hole with one hole saw instead of spending a lot of money on multiple hole saws. I think it grabs less too! It has blades on it and not teeth.
I’ve needed to do this for a while now! Will there be a video on the ceiling fan installation? Thanks!
These lights are so easy to work with!
Same reaction I had after installing downlights in various places in my house. So satisfying!!!
There is a scientific approach to follow for layout, but I'm an engineer and not a lighting designer. This prevents shadows between light beams, which looks terrible and feels like a tunnel.
What you need to know is:
1. Beam angle (the beam creates a Conical Frustum shape for each light) - narrower beam angle means more lights needed
2. Ceiling height - lower ceiling means beams intersect closer to the ground - more lights needed
Lay out the lights so that the beams intersect above the average person's height. 6' is a good place to be. Trigonometry is required.
Also, make sure the beam intersection is 6' or above around the edge of the room, as well.
These are not same as older pot light where the beam angles would be of concern. These flat led lights basically disperse light in a very wide angle and fill the room much more evenly
@@paulgill7222 Good to know, thanks!
Common practice with switched outlets is what you are finding at your switch box. The black wire loops around the screw and the Red wire is switched. Then the 3 conductor cable goes out to the outlet where generally half of the duplex plug is tied to constant power and half is switched.
Just did this job on 2 rooms in my house. Family loves it. Up next, kitchen and the family room.
I have been wondering how these lights work out . Thank you for posting this
Great video, and well explained. My only criticism would be that you really didn't need to run a brand new wire to the outlet formerly controlled by the switch. The bottom of the outlet is fed by a different wire - not the one from the switch, therefore, all you needed to do was cap the red wire and tuck it in the back of the box, replace the duplex outlet with a new one with an unbroken bridge, and the wire that supplied the constant electricity would have powered both top and bottom.
totally agree. He messed up with cutting the wire at the attic and killed an outlet,plus leaving a wire hanging in the attic that could potentially be a fire hazard if someone puts power into it in the future. He coulve just got power for his lights from the outlet by putting new wires.
So how was he going to switch the lights on and off? He needed the red wire in the 14/3 that was coming from the switch and going to the receptacle.
@@guyzer6197 Why not add a box in the attic and branch off the red for hot for the new lights. Keep black as it is and get a new outlet that is bridged.
@@castroy1 you could, but there is no attic access.
@@guyzer6197 He can run a 14/2 from the switch box or switched outlet to the nearest light and tie the black from the new wire to the red in the box.
I'm not an electrician by any stretch of the imagination, just have construction experience. But just a heads up: If you plan to do this in the US and it has to pass inspection, I'm fairly certain NEC Code requires the junction box has to be secured. He did mention it can be secured in the video, but I would secure it to be safe guys!
Other than that, a great video!
The way the lights sucked up perfectly was awesome.
These lights are cool. Installed them in a living room a few years ago and also in the soffit over my garage doors and they give a ton of light. Looks nice and added safety also.
Does the the wafer LED lights can become burnt out light or do it need some resinstalling the lights after a couple of years?
@@marcmarcmarc681 They are LED so should last 30000+ hours depending on the light. I don't know if just the wafer portion can be replaced or if the whole thing needs replaced but it would be quite awhile before needing to be replaced.
Thank you so much brother
Missing the biggest reason I watched this entire video.....how did all the lights get connected and wired with no attic access? Feel like I wasted nearly 20 minutes and have no idea why that was left out!
Same lol! Pretty important step to leave out for someone who doesn't know how to do this lol
Every body must love your job
Fyi you could run a piece of 14/3 between two off the led junction boxes and splice that in so that you could leave your outlet connected.
This was one of the most informative videos I’ve ever seen, thank you! 😅
Thanks for sharing this Brad. This is a something that I’ve been wanting to do for a few of the rooms in my house that just have lamps that are on switch run outlets. I have done a far amount of electrical work in the past so I’m competent enough to do that but I just haven’t been sure about how to deal with the outlets and also how to run the lines for the lights where there isn’t any existing ones there that I’m aware of. Lots of great information, thanks again Brad.
Sounds like you’ve done hardly any electrical work
Insane video! Loved the mock up. You went above and beyond to explain that situation
Great job Brad. I could not help but wonder where you live that wouldn't benefit from insulation in the ceiling?
Downstairs.
As a licensed electrician… good job 👍 and well explained
I recommend put the drill in high speed. There’s less torque, less kick back. Never use an insulated screwdriver. Just drill the centre hole, then poke up a coat hanger that’s cut, bend a right angle in it that’s the radius of the light fitting and spin it. This will mean you’ll have clearance from the roof timber. DIY electrical scares me, as seen some seriously unsafe stuff.
Facts
I have the exact same lights from amazon. Thanks for the video. I’m not a electrician either so I was searching on TH-cam for people who have done this set up. It seems pretty simple enough. I don’t think I need to run wires because I am just putting this in the old fixtures. But if I want to add more I may need to purchase cables/wires so I do four like that in one room. Well see. But this one of the better videos I found so thank you.
What did you pay for them? He said 12 for $60 but I cannot find them for that price anywhere‘s.
@@1stNCYANKEE I got 12 at 100$ something on Amazon. Also using that whole saw was difficult. I use a combo of that an dry wall saw. Some of my wholes aren’t perfect and need to be patched but the wiring is easy. The hardest part was cutting the wholes.
You could have added an extra ceiling box and used it as a junction box to tap into that 14-3 line. This would allow you to keep using the constant power black at the outlet and divert the red power to your lights. Afterward, just cover the new ceiling box with a blank plate and paint to match the ceiling.
Alternatively, you could use the junction box of the light to accomplish the same thing if there is enough slack in the original line. Bring the original line into the first box. Use a 14-3 to get the red across the room to another of your lights. Then use the junction box of that second light to tie back into the original line that feeds the receptacle biox.
That's exactly what I was thinking as well! Either junction box it or add another wire!
So you are saying he could have splice 14-3 into 14-2 and connect those recessed lights to 14-2? That way his outlets are there and also got power for his recessed light?
@@hardikrana6403 Exactly. In the original existing 14-3 Romex, red wire (lighting) power comes from the switch and black wire (outlet) power is constant. Here is what I would have done:
1. Add an old work box in the ceiling. I would place it out of the way in the corner, closer to the existing wire.
2. Cut the existing wire so that one end (the wire coming up from the switch) can be pulled over to the light location as shown on the video and the other end (the wire continuing down to the outlets) can be pulled over to the new junction box.
3. Run a new section of 14-3 Romex between the light location and the junction box.
4. Run a new section of 14-2 Romex between the first light location and the next light location.
5. In the junction box, connect black to black, red to red, neutral to neutral, and ground to ground. This will keep the existing power to the outlet so you can keep using it as a switched outlet or you can cap off the red wire in the outlet box and use a new outlet as shown in the video. You can place a blank plate over this junction box and paint it to match the ceiling.
6. In the light location, make the following connections inside the light's junction box.
a. All ground wires connected together. Input wire from switch, output wire to junction box, wire to first light fixture, and 14-2 wire out to the next light fixture.
b. All neutral wires connected together. Input wire from switch, output wire to junction box, wire to first light fixture, and 14-2 wire out to the next light fixture.
c. Two red lighting power wires (input wire from switch & output wire to junction box) are connected to two black wires (one to the first light fixture and one to the 14-2 wire out to the next light fixture). Note that the black wires of the ceiling lights now carry the switched lighting power around to the light fixtures.
d. Two black outlet power wires (input wire from switch, output wire to junction box) are connected together. DO NOT connect these wires to the lighting fixture or the wires leading out to the next fixture. These wires carry the outlet power back down to the original outlet so that it continues to function in the same way.
In the video, it appears that he left the wire leading down to the outlet abandoned in the ceiling and removed the outlet entirely. His installation could be retrofitted by my method to restore power to that outlet, with or without the switched function.
@@chrisboyd4433 wow, thank you so much for taking time to explain this.
Not related to this..We recently purchased a house. In most of the area builder provided pre wiring for ceiling fan. Today i was trying to install the ceiling fan and noticed that both red and black wires have constant power. They provided 2 switches, even if i turn the switch off those 2 wires still shows reading in power tester. Do you think its normal? Or they messed up there. I installed the fan and i can only control the fan/light by using the remote. Switch doesn’t do anything.
Your input would be greatly appreciated.
Excellent video. Loved how you explained any and every issue someone would have on installing these lights.
One question, what CAD program you used in the video. Thanks Buddy
SketchUp
One thing you should do before adding lights, is find out what else is on the circuit. You're only allowed 12 fixtures. Sometimes the convenient circuit won't work out.
LOL what country is that rule?
@@daveperryLXXVII
International electrical code.
@@FullCircleTravis no way that's a International electrical code. most houses these days have more then 12LED DL and with LED can easily be doubled
@@daveperryLXXVII We're talking about adding into a existing circuit which could include receptacles. The code states that more than 12 fixtures are allowed if the loads are static, and obviously not overloading the circuit. So 20 LED lights might meet code, but 1 receptacle in the circuit means no more than 11 lights regardless of the draw.
@@FullCircleTravis That's totally false information that you are giving. It depends what size rcd is on that circuit could be 10 or 15 and also depends how much amps the lights are drawing. No such rule exists. 12 fixtures. Never heard anything like that in my 30years.
Wow! Not even 2min in and I am SO impressed by all the info!
Just curious how you fished the wire to the next lights.
Awesome video. Only thing i would do different is avoid make additional holes to fish the line. There are some nice tricks available to fish a line up and over a corner onto the ceiling. A simple wooden broom stick with a weighed object attached to it via a string is great help. You can even get fancy and use the magnetic fishing tool as well.
I just had this done in two rooms of my house. The electrician butchered the ceilings when he was cutting holes to run the lines, though, and it was a bear to fix it. I should have just done it myself.
yeah, unfortunately most electricians leave the holes for you to fix so they aren't as worried about how they look or how hard they are to repair.
If you drill in reverse you can avoid hick-back and cutting your wires. It's a common problem but easy to fix!
Great video and explanation!!
I’m not sure if you are aware but according to the NEC code that if you extend an electrical circuit 6 feet or more you have to use an AFCI circuit breaker if it is not already one.
Looks great Brad, I just completed this in my kitchen and living room and they are awesome lights.