I am the second owner of one (1999) and also do all maintenance myself. It has lass than 30K miles. The only real problem I have had with it was the rectifier (many years ago). Just fun since then with basic maintenance. I left it sitting for several months and now just tried to start it and it doesn't. The battery is good so I have to examine spark plugs etc. The gears were not shifting so I pumped the clutch lever a few time and that solved the problem. Since winter is almost here I may have to let it sit for longer and get to the job next year. I like the bike. Since I am not getting younger and my back is not so good, I wish the bike was lower and lighter.
You HAVE to rebuild the carbs. I left my bandit sitting for 3 years. Carbs were gummed up. Its the E10 in the petrol. Since rebuilding my carbs, i only buy premium petrol from shell.
I’m on my second 98 VFR Gen5, bought from a friend with 3k on the clock. Then I had 2 but elected to sell one. Yes, electrical issues galore, RR problems, rear caliper locking up, blown fuses from shorted brake switch wire after “readjusting” the right clip on- but still a great bike! Don’t think I’ll ever get rid of it. Keep posting as you videos are great and we can probably help each other! Mac Morgan, Hockessin Delaware, USA
You have one of my all time favorite machines there. A friend in over here in North Carolina just just found a super low miles, cream puff. But looking at the comments, nearly every one of them is about electrical problems. Electrical is one of my strengths, and I like a challenge. Good luck men.
Oh boy same thing happened to me with my 2009 GS... Start shutting down while maneuvering... so a bit of trouble shooting and using my digital probe (ie. my finger!) and found the brake, it was one of the two cable from the key (there war 4 cable from the immobilizer i think...)... Patched it up... and away we go!
I used to own a SR650 that had electric starter issues so I would just kick start the bike. I finally did fix the issue when my buddy decided to buy my bike. In your case I completely understand the importance of the fix. By the way nice bike.
If you run into odd dash instrument cluster quirks like the clock resetting, or indicator lights not working, there's a good chance it's related to the two connectors that plug into the back of the dash. The interface between the connector pins and the flexible circuit is a bit junk, but I've found pulling the connectors and cleaning everything with an electrical contact cleaner usually clears up the issue.
VFR's are in general a solid reliable, over engineered bike, this kinda broken wire failure is fairly typical of any high miler bike, copper wire can only flex so many times. Late 5th Gens 2000/2001 are the ones to avoid due to the HiSS system & Cat fitted, which you found on the shocker change vlog, Mr Honda made a few balls ups in the design of certain component access.
I’m glad you enjoy messing with wiring, I have an intermittent fault with the tachometer on my speed triple 955. It’s gets laggy the longer you ride. Switch it off and on again and it’s fine. The other issue is that it looks like someone has taken to the end of the loom with a chainsaw wearing a blindfold. Glad your issue was more straightforward.
That sounds tricky! I had a faulty rev counter on a Monster once - replaced it with a second hand one, and turned the old one into a clock. Cheers, John
Hello there, I’ve recently bought a 98 interceptor! It’s in really bad condition, been left outside for months in british weather. I’m gonna try and fix it up myself. These videos are great and I would love to get in contact with you!
Ditto. Mine was parked up 4 years outside and unloved, no cover, no spray on protectant, nothing ... Had to go through everything, new brake seal kits, fork seals, exhaust collector, the lot. That was 18 years ago this year and I still own the bike but rarely use it. The engine oil was like brown dishwater I recall, so its first run up with fresh oil lasted only a minute or so, that oil was then also changed. Amazingly, the colour (yellow) of the fairing panels didnt bleach very badly but it did have a tank cover which had turned white over the years. Tank was perfect once it was removed (and I peeled it off as all the stitching had gone brittle and broken) . Good luck👍
Interested to see the valve clearance video coming up. My 92k mile NTV650 is well overdue, I haven't done them in the 30k I've owned it but they were done not long before that. It's a radiator drained and partially out job hence my lack of motivation.
exact same issue with my vfr a while back. unfortunatley i was stuck on the shetland isles somewhere with no phone signal so had to get creative to fix it
Decided to make camp where I was then stripped all necessary bodywork and most of the steering by the side of the road to get access to the damaged wires. Nothing at hand to rejoin the wire so had to do the old twist together trick. The brake was right where Honda ziptie (very tightly) part of the ignition wire to the barrel which will inevitably cut through over time
I had the same problem on my 05 ZX6 one of the wires coming out of the ignition had cracked then broke completely, did get collected by bike electrician, turns out one of the wires had gone hard, no issues since then. XR coming up to 72,000 service and valve check.
@@bennettsbikesocial it’s when it cut out in the fast lane on the A27 and you’re trying to get over to the curb without being taken out. That’s the squeaky bum time.
@@bennettsbikesocial The SH689DA is still in my daily 1998 which is at 164,000 miles. That isn't a MOSFET, but was Honda's upgraded rectifier with more cooling area. No fan is installed.
Coincidentally, I had a similar experience with my 2017 Triumph Street Cup. The bike developed a problem where it would shut off at full lock to the right. It was a bit of a nuisance in a 90° right turn (I'm in the US) to have the engine spontaneously stop, but I always had the clutch lever in at these moments and could restart as soon I straightened it out. Turns out it was subject to a recall due to a too short main harness/loom being pinched and abraded by a wiring stay by the steering head. The truly questionable choice I made was riding it the 12 miles to my local dealer for repairs like it was nothing to be concerned with.
I hate electrical issues. I am the second owner of a 1991 Goldwing GL1500 SE with a barley broken in 246,000km. It had sat for 20 years in a barn when I got it. My first restoration bike...I probably could have picked something easier. The mechanical stuff was fairly easy and with a lot of work she is back on the road running and looking like a new bike...that is until the turn signals, flashers and horn all stopped working at the same time. My Clymer manual says their all on the same circuit so I thought it would simply need new Flasher and turn signal relays. Not so. Still no turn signals. I guess I'll have to start tracing thru the miles of wiring to see if there is a break somewhere? Problem is, I have no idea how to. I suppose I'll need a volt meter or something? No idea which one to get or how to use it . Tried using you tube but no one actually shows where to hook it up or how to read it to see if there is continuity in a wire. Any suggestions? I love the bike, but my arms are getting tired of signaling my turns. Keep up the great videos.
I hear vfr and electric and instantly assume regulator/ rectifier…. A job I’ve done with the help of Kev’s shed channel and Bradford ignition (both top blokes).
Was the break under the insulation so hidden or was it obvious where it was rubbing? Electrical issues can be really interesting sometimes, like a single pin on an ECU acting weird putting things off, a nightmare to diagnose though! I've only had to deal with a dodgy starter relay so far.
Yeah - it's just all backed up at the moment. Loads is shot, but struggling to get it edited. It'll be hitting 100,000 mikes very shortly... Cheers, John
Soldering crimp-on connections in a high vibration environment is bad practice. The solder will wick up into the cable, stiffen it and the cable will then fail where the solder ends. Use good quality crimp connections and the correct crimp tool and you'll be right.
This guy had no such luck, had to drill out the sheer bolts and replace the whole ignition barrel, as the wiring was tucked inside, no easy connector. th-cam.com/video/gG8L_fynZTU/w-d-xo.html
Fair enough. Though promoting our own business is how we afford to produce content. And how we gave the revenue from our jeans investigation to charity. Good luck in your quest for entirely free - as well as honest and independent - video content.
I am the second owner of one (1999) and also do all maintenance myself. It has lass than 30K miles. The only real problem I have had with it was the rectifier (many years ago). Just fun since then with basic maintenance. I left it sitting for several months and now just tried to start it and it doesn't. The battery is good so I have to examine spark plugs etc. The gears were not shifting so I pumped the clutch lever a few time and that solved the problem. Since winter is almost here I may have to let it sit for longer and get to the job next year. I like the bike. Since I am not getting younger and my back is not so good, I wish the bike was lower and lighter.
You HAVE to rebuild the carbs. I left my bandit sitting for 3 years. Carbs were gummed up.
Its the E10 in the petrol. Since rebuilding my carbs, i only buy premium petrol from shell.
I’m on my second 98 VFR Gen5, bought from a friend with 3k on the clock. Then I had 2 but elected to sell one. Yes, electrical issues galore, RR problems, rear caliper locking up, blown fuses from shorted brake switch wire after “readjusting” the right clip on- but still a great bike! Don’t think I’ll ever get rid of it. Keep posting as you videos are great and we can probably help each other!
Mac Morgan, Hockessin Delaware, USA
You have one of my all time favorite machines there. A friend in over here in North Carolina just just found a super low miles, cream puff. But looking at the comments, nearly every one of them is about electrical problems. Electrical is one of my strengths, and I like a challenge. Good luck men.
Oh boy same thing happened to me with my 2009 GS... Start shutting down while maneuvering... so a bit of trouble shooting and using my digital probe (ie. my finger!) and found the brake, it was one of the two cable from the key (there war 4 cable from the immobilizer i think...)... Patched it up... and away we go!
Good work! And I'm stealing that 'digital probe' phrase! Cheers, John
I do enjoy a good problem solving session.
I used to own a SR650 that had electric starter issues so I would just kick start the bike. I finally did fix the issue when my buddy decided to buy my bike. In your case I completely understand the importance of the fix. By the way nice bike.
Cheers! All the best, John
If you run into odd dash instrument cluster quirks like the clock resetting, or indicator lights not working, there's a good chance it's related to the two connectors that plug into the back of the dash. The interface between the connector pins and the flexible circuit is a bit junk, but I've found pulling the connectors and cleaning everything with an electrical contact cleaner usually clears up the issue.
Thanks!
VFR's are in general a solid reliable, over engineered bike, this kinda broken wire failure is fairly typical of any high miler bike, copper wire can only flex so many times.
Late 5th Gens 2000/2001 are the ones to avoid due to the HiSS system & Cat fitted, which you found on the shocker change vlog, Mr Honda made a few balls ups in the design of certain component access.
Cheers! Yes, this fault was easy to fix to be honest. All the best, John
I’m glad you enjoy messing with wiring, I have an intermittent fault with the tachometer on my speed triple 955. It’s gets laggy the longer you ride. Switch it off and on again and it’s fine. The other issue is that it looks like someone has taken to the end of the loom with a chainsaw wearing a blindfold. Glad your issue was more straightforward.
That sounds tricky! I had a faulty rev counter on a Monster once - replaced it with a second hand one, and turned the old one into a clock. Cheers, John
I like these down-to-earth videos. Thank you!
Thanks for watching! Cheers, John
Gr8 vid, interesting self analysis. Glad you found the electrical related problem, and it's not a bad sensor. Anyway, ride safe, god bless u.
Hello there, I’ve recently bought a 98 interceptor! It’s in really bad condition, been left outside for months in british weather. I’m gonna try and fix it up myself. These videos are great and I would love to get in contact with you!
Ditto. Mine was parked up 4 years outside and unloved, no cover, no spray on protectant, nothing ... Had to go through everything, new brake seal kits, fork seals, exhaust collector, the lot. That was 18 years ago this year and I still own the bike but rarely use it. The engine oil was like brown dishwater I recall, so its first run up with fresh oil lasted only a minute or so, that oil was then also changed. Amazingly, the colour (yellow) of the fairing panels didnt bleach very badly but it did have a tank cover which had turned white over the years. Tank was perfect once it was removed (and I peeled it off as all the stitching had gone brittle and broken) . Good luck👍
Btw, most electrical issues I’ve come up with have dealt with corroded and overheated connectors.
Interested to see the valve clearance video coming up. My 92k mile NTV650 is well overdue, I haven't done them in the 30k I've owned it but they were done not long before that. It's a radiator drained and partially out job hence my lack of motivation.
Easy task on this motor, no faffing with timing chains.
exact same issue with my vfr a while back. unfortunatley i was stuck on the shetland isles somewhere with no phone signal so had to get creative to fix it
Oh no! What did you do?
Now we really want to hear that story.
Decided to make camp where I was then stripped all necessary bodywork and most of the steering by the side of the road to get access to the damaged wires. Nothing at hand to rejoin the wire so had to do the old twist together trick. The brake was right where Honda ziptie (very tightly) part of the ignition wire to the barrel which will inevitably cut through over time
@@ABMotorbikes Good work!
I had the same problem on my 05 ZX6 one of the wires coming out of the ignition had cracked then broke completely, did get collected by bike electrician, turns out one of the wires had gone hard, no issues since then. XR coming up to 72,000 service and valve check.
Once you can find it, it's a pretty easy fix really. But finding it... Glad you got your sorted. Cheers, John
@@bennettsbikesocial it’s when it cut out in the fast lane on the A27 and you’re trying to get over to the curb without being taken out. That’s the squeaky bum time.
Good job on the troubleshooting and fix. A quality MOSFET rectifier won't need a fan as they run cooler by design.
If this one packs up, I'll upgrade it. Cheers!
@@bennettsbikesocial The SH689DA is still in my daily 1998 which is at 164,000 miles. That isn't a MOSFET, but was Honda's upgraded rectifier with more cooling area. No fan is installed.
Exactly the same thing happened to me on my first bike, Yamaha YS125
Coincidentally, I had a similar experience with my 2017 Triumph Street Cup. The bike developed a problem where it would shut off at full lock to the right. It was a bit of a nuisance in a 90° right turn (I'm in the US) to have the engine spontaneously stop, but I always had the clutch lever in at these moments and could restart as soon I straightened it out. Turns out it was subject to a recall due to a too short main harness/loom being pinched and abraded by a wiring stay by the steering head. The truly questionable choice I made was riding it the 12 miles to my local dealer for repairs like it was nothing to be concerned with.
Glad you got it sorted! Cheers, John
Hello,
Wow. Well done.
I hate electrical issues. I am the second owner of a 1991 Goldwing GL1500 SE with a barley broken in 246,000km. It had sat for 20 years in a barn when I got it. My first restoration bike...I probably could have picked something easier. The mechanical stuff was fairly easy and with a lot of work she is back on the road running and looking like a new bike...that is until the turn signals, flashers and horn all stopped working at the same time. My Clymer manual says their all on the same circuit so I thought it would simply need new Flasher and turn signal relays. Not so. Still no turn signals. I guess I'll have to start tracing thru the miles of wiring to see if there is a break somewhere? Problem is, I have no idea how to. I suppose I'll need a volt meter or something? No idea which one to get or how to use it . Tried using you tube but no one actually shows where to hook it up or how to read it to see if there is continuity in a wire. Any suggestions? I love the bike, but my arms are getting tired of signaling my turns.
Keep up the great videos.
Cheers! Give this a go... th-cam.com/video/SECWePatYjY/w-d-xo.html
Great series.
Thanks! All the best, John
1:07 I felt that, i really did 😢
As is the way with these things. Sometimes until it gets really bad. It's hard to locate the problem.
Good fix though. 👍
Need help! My 2000 vfr800 running lights don’t work, no gauges working no rpm temp has nothing. I can’t find any answers
I hear vfr and electric and instantly assume regulator/ rectifier…. A job I’ve done with the help of Kev’s shed channel and Bradford ignition (both top blokes).
Was the break under the insulation so hidden or was it obvious where it was rubbing? Electrical issues can be really interesting sometimes, like a single pin on an ECU acting weird putting things off, a nightmare to diagnose though! I've only had to deal with a dodgy starter relay so far.
It was broken under the insulation, but one I found it, I could feel it. Cheers, John
Is there any more content planned for the VFR? Think you mentioned a trackday?
Yeah - it's just all backed up at the moment. Loads is shot, but struggling to get it edited. It'll be hitting 100,000 mikes very shortly... Cheers, John
@@bennettsbikesocial great stuff, thanks John. Good to know she's getting some use 😊
I have the fi light on and no power to pump but the pump is fine, and it blow the 30 amp at the fuse box, any ideas?
Broken wire rubbed thru on chassis, wiring diagram time.
Are there any updates on the VFR ? 👍
Coming soon...
Soldering crimp-on connections in a high vibration environment is bad practice. The solder will wick up into the cable, stiffen it and the cable will then fail where the solder ends. Use good quality crimp connections and the correct crimp tool and you'll be right.
Cheers for this! John
I follow the logic, but I'm colour blind!
Good work, though.
Safe, happy travels 👍
It really sucks for us used buyers, when original owners don't take advantage of FREE recall services :\
This guy had no such luck, had to drill out the sheer bolts and replace the whole ignition barrel, as the wiring was tucked inside, no easy connector. th-cam.com/video/gG8L_fynZTU/w-d-xo.html
electric gremlins + planned obselecence = new bikes...
nope, keeping all my carbs caarbed.
This would be the same fault on a pre-FI bike
Over happier video is wasted time talking about s*** that's irrelevant to the topic of the video
When I see ads I unsub.
Fair enough. Though promoting our own business is how we afford to produce content. And how we gave the revenue from our jeans investigation to charity. Good luck in your quest for entirely free - as well as honest and independent - video content.
@@bennettsbikesocial I pay TH-cam $20 a month to not have ads.
Still stands I'm afraid