ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.ค. 2020
- 「适苑」寓意适合聚集的地方，一家可说是吉隆坡硕果仅存的老字号粤菜馆，七十余年以来屹立在车水马龙的富都路（Jalan Pudu）上。从建筑外型到内部装潢依然维持昔日风貌，店内的电风扇和桌椅自开业沿用至今，一张张云石桌面经频繁摩擦也褪了色。厨房里保留着两座柴灶和罕见的柴烧大蒸炉，是呈现出每一道佳肴传统滋味的关键。使用柴烧炉灶来蒸煮米饭、炖汤和蒸鱼吃起来别有一番风味，无需精致的器皿或花哨的摆盘衬托。浓郁的古早味饭菜香萦绕店内，令人食指大动之余仿佛坠入了时光隧道，得以一窥超过半世纪前的民生风情。
富都（Pudu）位于吉隆坡市中心外圈，在19世纪末未完全开发时又称半山芭，是下南洋的华裔先贤聚居地之一。当时的英殖民政府在半山芭消防局旁设立一个火车站，使该区成为衔接茨厂街（Jalan Petaling）和蕉赖（Cheras）的交通枢纽，使得人口密度剧增并促进了富都路的经济活动。其中，半山芭巴刹更是当年主要批发菜市场，每天清晨时分人群已是熙来攘往。然而在娱乐匮乏的年代，半山芭一带便有着三间戏院，夜深人潮依旧川流不息。
适苑酒家的创始人--彭氏三兄弟瞄准商机，从在街边以一辆手推车兜售云吞面开始，慢慢攒钱购置店面。他们在1948年于现址搭了一座简陋的棚屋开业，举家大小齐心协力，早上五点半开始贩卖点心茶果，上午十一点之后则售卖炒面等热食，直到深夜。同时，还承包了各种婚丧喜庆宴席，几乎每晚都高朋满座，渐渐打响知名度，进而跻身吉隆坡“四大天王”酒家。顺应宴席的增加，适苑曾以货柜为计量单位进口各种酒类，在当年可谓壮举，连英殖民政府官员都熟识适苑酒家，吸引不少政商名流曾来光顾。
1950年代中旬，和吉隆坡一同蓬勃发展的适苑酒家在获得政府部门批准后，在原址兴建了店铺。其特殊的位置，在闹市里整齐排列的店屋中乍现一栋独幢的建筑，门面阶梯金字塔的设计，白墙上红色的「适苑酒家」四字格外醒目。有趣的是，由于酒家座落在单数门牌的街道上分别为313和315的店面之间，只能另辟蹊径取了313/1这个门牌。生意蒸蒸日上的适苑随即在1971年做出另一创举，于相邻的315建立了双层带冷气的建筑，大大提高酒家的档次，让顾客能在舒适的环境里享用美味的餐点。新店面开张的同时，顺势推出了自家研发的枇杷鸭作为招牌菜，至今仍是食客们的必点菜肴。
自创始以来，彭氏家族成员倾力投入适苑的营运，坚定守护祖辈奠定的家业。彭家几代小辈成长过程中的集体记忆便是小时候到店内帮忙洗碗、劈柴，协助办理宴席的诸项事宜。一些成员读书毕业后就进入适苑工作至今，身为第二代的彭杨星和彭笑纳分别司掌厨房和烧腊部门，几十年如一日地将青春岁月奉献店内。第三代负责人彭贵松尊重长辈们的无私付出，抱着饮水思源的心态，在出外闯荡一番后选择回归家族生意，打理事务和整顿事业。适苑酒家目前传承至第四代，除去十多名全职管理店内事宜的成员，其余六、七十名家族成员不时都会自发性地趁闲暇到店里帮忙。每逢农历新年，连第五代都会回来帮忙，全家一同在酒家内忙得不可开交。
如今潮流追求快速，能够烹煮一道道繁复的古式菜色的已经不多，有忠实的老饕专程前往适苑品尝道地的粤菜。适苑酒家得以经历那么多年，除了家族的团结之外，也多亏于回归家族生意的年轻一代引进更符合现代的生意理念，和长辈一起商量讨论之后，结合新和旧的经营模式，使酒家的生意更上层楼。譬如现下疫情来袭，为了维持生计，他们藉由网路平台推出外卖套餐，亲力亲为将热腾腾的美食送到顾客手中。彭氏家族携手合作，方能确保适苑酒家源远流长。
The sole remaining traditional Cantonese restaurant in Kuala Lumpur situated on the bustling Jalan Pudu for over 70 years, Sek Yuen, means a suitable gathering place. Both the exterior and interior of the restaurant retain its olden charm, the very same fans, tables, and chairs being in use since commence of business, where the marble tabletops became faded due to frequent scrubbing. In the kitchen stood two woodfire stoves and a wood-fired steamer which is seldom seen, the key in producing traditional flavours. Dishes cooked using woodfire stoves have a special taste, without necessity to be complemented by elaborate plating. Apart from making the mouth water, the rich authentic aromas that fill the restaurant transport people back to the past, glimpsing the way of life since 50 years ago.
Pudu is situated in the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur City Centre, being one of the early Chinese communal settlements, it was called “half jungle” during the end of the 19th century before being fully developed. The British colonial government built a railway station beside the Pudu fire brigade station, transforming the area into a transport hub connecting Jalan Petaling and Jalan Cheras, causing both population and economic boom within Jalan Pudu. The Pudu Wet Market was the main wholesale market, every day crowds flock in since dawn. Back then when entertainment was scarce, there were three cinemas in Pudu, crowds did not disperse until late night.
Founders of Sek Yuen Restaurant--the three Phang siblings discovered an excellent business opportunity, starting by selling wanton noodles in a roadside food cart, they slowly saved up to purchase a shop lot. In 1948, a simple hut was built at the current site. The whole family worked together, selling dim sum from 5.30A.M. onwards, then noodles and hot food from 11.30A.M. till late night. At the same time, they hosted banquets and feasts, flourishing with guests each night, thus gaining fame and recognition as one of the four major restaurants in Kuala Lumpur. With increasing numbers of banquets, Sek Yuen once imported containers of alcohol, an impressive feat in former times. Even British colonial government officers frequented Sek Yuen, attracting other renowned guests as well.
In the mid-1950s, having developed rapidly together with Kuala Lumpur city, Sek Yuen was granted approval for building premises. The occupied spot stood out from the row of shops as an individual building, with pyramidal steps at the entrance, “Sek Yuen Restaurant” painted in red against white walls. Another interesting fact is due to the restaurant being located on an odd-numbered row between lots 313 and 315, its lot number is ingeniously assigned as 313/1. As the restaurant prospered, in 1971 Sek Yuen acquired a double-storey air-conditioned building at the neighbouring lot 315, improving its standards so that customers could enjoy delicious dishes in a comfortable environment. During the new site opening, they introduced their in-house research-and-developed Pipa Duck as a signature dish, a must-have to date.
(Full Text: uniness.gallery/适苑酒家/)
#有你UNI #UNIGallery #马来西亚有你 #有你 #UNI #uniness #uninessmalaysia
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文 Text/ 潘慧雯 Pua Hui Wen
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Sek Yuen Restaurant simply the best. Better than all the rest. Better than any restaurants I've been to. Thank you for sharing.
超過一甲子中餐館，傳承舊時味道，難得難得 ！ 多樣功夫菜在香港似成絕響，八寶鴨、琵琶鴨 ⋯ ，租金人工昂貴之故。疫情後再到吉隆坡一定去寶號大快朵頤懷舊。
向勤勞的馬來西亞華人致崇高敬意 ！ 👍🙏
这个就是馬来西亚华人的精神一代传一代👍
用廣府話，细訴守業和世情，份外温馨。下次來KL, 一定向這老店的誠意，致敬！旅港一老叟上。
我老豆最鍾意適苑的鴨吞翅！
Thanks for keeping this iconic place alive. I was born in Pudu not far from Sek Yuen.
Thank you for sharing, interesting history and experienced. Thumb Up!
星哥的琵琶鴨....😋
Iconic restaurant in Pudu, Kuala Lumpur.
下次到吉隆坡一定去試下
thank you soooooo much for the good memories of KL
I am your old customer. .....
My home town, 半山巴。
Each time I came to KL I eat at this restaurant.
真的，吉隆坡老字號
Best choice always.
很多年前適苑酒家的鸭吞翅我有試食过，当时的菜单是(荒岛孤鸿)怎样隔代相傳之下菜名改乱成(孤岛天堂)？鸿就雁也代表了鸭子，真的是一代不如一代。
thim choon kwan 亦叫 飛鴻送寶 或 寶鴨藏珍，如何 ？ 😋
唔知点解，起到个名有一种好凄凉的感觉
顶上
我是在315這裡長大的。。。
No wonder the sultan of johore reconised contributions made by the chinese people.
路過，發現這裡的流量竟然那麽唏噓。。。
因為很多人都愛看垃圾視頻，這種記載真實生活人物的少人看
2:18🤢報子
讲真，老一辈的人好钟意用报纸嚟包食物，十分之唔合卫生。
请问在哪里？
goo.gl/maps/nPXngPM4VwP7kzrK9
若要去吃，建議早一天預定早期的傳統菜式如八寶鴨等。若walk in, 可以點招牌菜琵琶鸭。Walk in 點的菜式都一般。
傳統菜式 menu tantannews.com/food/K9b6pEQeEv
@@HC_Lee9498 谢谢
Jalan Pudu
食物煮的很超烂，被骗一次就夠了，以後不再來這家適苑。
NO Sharkfin!! NO!!!
Yes yes yes
I like sharkfin ! Yummy
You think sharkfin soup is cheap!!!
Anyway, real sharkfin soup is the history in the past.
Chapter 2:19 using news paper to serve meal is really unhealthy. Should improve way to serve otherwise need to report to health ministry