Engine Flush for low oil pressure
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 มี.ค. 2020
- *Disclosure - After 3 years of being a very happy Amsoil customer....and 2 years AFTER this video, I am now an Independent Amsoil Dealer*
Please see more information from Amsoil here: blog.amsoil.com/is-an-engine-...
On a whim (and before I got into more expense and repair) I thought I would try Amsoil's engine flush with my oil change. I had high hopes that it would solve my low oil pressure and I was NOT disappointed! This was well worth the $10 spent and I highly recommend you give it a try if you have having low oil pressure readings on your GMC Yukon or Sierra, Chevy Tahoe or Suburban. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
530,140 mile 5.3 vortec, on a 2001 gmc sierra 1500 here. I use the AMS oil engine flush once in a while on my "daily." Still running strong, never had the motor rebuilt. Usually go 3k to 4k miles, and then change my oil. The high mileage and age is there. The short time frame between oil changes is there, but its just cheap insurance, and its worked for me this long. My noble steed still gets me to point A & B, and beyond. Took me all over the country and experienced all the servere climate changes during my railroad days. Good luck pal, and hope you recieve the results youre attempting to achieve. 🤟💪🏼👍
Wow, that is fantastic! 500K miles! These are great motors. Not always perfect, but can easily get 300K-500K out of them.
@@KMLTimesTwo Dont believe in this crap there are a lot of miracle aditivs SELLERS in yotube.
I had the same issue with my 2005 Silverado 5.3L, 4x4, Z71. Dropped the 4x4 axle, took the oil pan off, had it chemically cleaned, what a mess it was! and replaced the o-ring (not surprised to see that it was split).
The work was performed by my hand at odometer 256,500 miles. Since this work, the oil pressure is steady at 40+ and increases with rpm. Worth mentioning, I always ran a 5w30 synthetic and now running a 10w30 synthetic with WixXP oil filter. It was recommended by the engine machine shop, to run a heavier oil. I took heed to the advice and it is the best move made for this engine. No valve tapping at start which tended to rack my nerves, especially in the winter with the low oil pressure warning.
Getting the work done was a good 12-15 hours on the driveway. It wasn't easy but I made it happen. You too can do this job!
SCAM MIRACLE PRODUCTS
Awesome video, Amsoil on point again, the engine flush is a game changer. I used it in my truck each time I changed the oil for the first 3 oil changes and run signature series and amsoil synthetic filter, can’t beat it. 🤙🏽
Amsoil #1. Really works. Thanks for Video. 👍🏼
Thank you!
Success. 2011 Silverado 5.3 Z71 with 220k miles. Amsoil flush with new 10W30 Castrol Syn blend & Bosch filter #3334 (my routine for last 5 years) brought pressure up to 40+ from 20- psi like it was before a local shop replaced leaking rear main seal, oil pan gasket, and motor mounts. Might have been a bad or wrong ACDelco filter by the shop. This solved the trouble code and I feel 100% confident we'll be running strong here on out. PSI still great like it should be after 1250 miles.
Nice! Glad it worked.
I used to use Mobil 1 and found the oil very dirty as well when I would change it.
Then I switched to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and it’s better, the oil stays cleaner longer. Plus the engine is quieter and smoother.
Although amsoil is good oil I feel like it’s too hard to get and it’s more expensive compared to just going to a store. Plus, I don’t care how good they say the oil is, I don’t trust any oil in my engine for 20,000 miles.
I change my oil every 5,000 miles.
Thanks for the video.. I just ran into a similar situation where my Oil pressure randomly dipped out when driving and got the low oil pressure message on my 2010 Chevy Avalanche and has right around 165k just like yours.. I pulled over collected my thoughts and figured first thing get an oil change because my oil level was solid.. Went to the local quicky place because I was an hour away from home and decided to do the engine flush too and.. Boom. Magically Oil pressure doing the same thing as yours now. I can personally attest this process does work!
Thanks Justin! I am glad that others had the same good experience.
Where can I get this flush?
Are you serious?
@@joshuakorson9641 Just do the oild change to a good oil,,, forget the flush miracle its a scam
I have a 06 Envoy Denali had a oil leak so after discover the things that have to be done just to drop the pan I figured I better do what I can while I’m in there. I ring, new gasket where the most comical things to do. Get it back together and I get the no oil pressure shot engine off warning. Thought I might of nicked the o ring. Repeated the process and changed the ring. Same results, now I’m coming from the top and replacing the oil pump. But never thought to try and flush the engine. I pray that is my answer to not having any pressure. Glad your video popped up in my recommendation feed.
Replacing the oil pump without dropping the pan can be challenging for sure. I tried it but then eventually dropped the pan as well. While you're that deep into it, check to see if your oil pan has a pressure valve in it. If so you might as well replace it while you're there. You might also consider replacing the cam plate behind the larger timing gear. It was recommended to me that that could be a source of oil pressure reduction. I don't think that's your problem but it could be an issue contributing to it. If you use the meling pump pay attention to which o-ring they tell you to use. Of course I didn't and put the wrong one back in.
You did the absolutely correct thing by running the Amsoil flush. I would also recommend you switch to 10w30 signature series as it will continue to maintain a higher oil pressure better than the 5w30 under higher throttle and hill climbs. And also gets consumed by the engine significantly less.
Nice video and great job ,I have Denali 2007 same problem you have ,and I rebuild the engine not in a long time and change oil pump ls3 compress for high pressure and o ring and new lifters changed I replace cam shaft bosh ,the oil every month with filter Castrol 5/30 still have same problem maybe the 6.2 have problem from factory
The Amsoil is the best I use it on my camaro 2001 turbo and do great work and save my engine
Thanks for the good video.
Have a nice day ..
Thanks for the kind words. Wow, that is a lot of work to still have an issue! Good luck with it.
Very impressive I'm glad to see yet another affirmation of Amsoil product quality.
Thank you!
Is the amsoil flush safe for an 2006 5.3L that always ran conventional oil?
Thats when I use it is when I'm switching a vehicle over that has not had synthetic in it before, just to help the engine start clean.
I love amsoil products and like to add in rislone oil detergent cleaner on an oil change and sometimes BG MOA Part # 110 Engine Oil Supplement to keep sludge down and things running smoothly. I always figured more expensive oil is cheaper than a new vehicle or new engine.
I used rislone in a my airboat project and it worked pretty good cleaning up the sludge. Thanks for the comment!
Given the problems with gumming up the valve covers,oil sending units,o ring pick up tube i change my oil way before time.I also use motor flushes and have over 250k on my 02, 5.3 Silverado.
My 2010 GMC Acadia a drive message kept coming on low oil pressure. I use this engine cleaner and change the oil . the sale associate at autozone said that all GMC vehicles had to have dexcom in the oil. The low oil pressure message has not come back. So , thank you for the video.
Glad it helped!!
Awesome video, just did this. Fixed my trucks low oil pressure e
That's great news! Thanks for letting me know. Good stuff.
My best guess is a clogged pickup screen, which the flush cleared up enough to let the pump not cavitate as much as before. Dropping the pan and clear it is always the safest procedure, including making sure the seals are ok so it doesn’t suck air.
Thanks Jonas. You are probably right. It is still working good so far (or so it seems) but I may eventually drop the pan and or replace the sensor screen.
KMLTimesTwo Not sensor screen, pickup screen. Any filter screen infront of a pressure sensor would not cause a misreading unless there is a flow.
@@jonasthemovie Gotcha. Thank you. Kris
This flush cleans and clears the sludge from the piston rings which restores pressure and horsepower. The signature series from Amsoil is 100% synthetic motor oil which means all oil molecules are the same size and shape flowing better through the system. Good job and good luck bro. Good stuff!
Thanks for checking it out and the added info!
Piston rings have nothing to do with oil pressure.
@@KMLTimesTwo that flush emulsified the carbon buildup on the sensor screen now the oil will keep it clean
@@Jon-O. this is about all It can do.
Lmfao! You sound like an Amsoil salesman. Piston or rings have absolutely NOTHING to do with oil pressure!!
Another issue these Chevys has with low oil pressure is the oil pickup tube O ring going bad. My 08 Silverado had this issue two years ago. Would be driving and I would lose oil pressure and I would get some lifter tap for a few seconds then the oil pressure would come back and it would go away. If it is a 4wd it is a pretty involved job meaning that you would have to lower the front differential and unbolt the steering rack to remove the oil pan. It's not difficult to do, just time consuming.
Thanks for the post. Yes I have looked into a few of the different reasons for low oil pressure. None of the fixes seem to be very fun. I was highly skeptical that this would even work and I'm still skeptical that it's a long-term solution but so far so good. I fully expected to be replacing the sensor and the screen. Or like you said the oil pick up tube seal. Or oil pump for that matter. I am hoping that I don't have to get into any of that stuff.
@@KMLTimesTwo I doubt it is the oil pump from personal experiences with the truck. Sometimes running oil longer like Mobil 1 can clog up the screen. I have 272,000 on my 08 Silverado and its still going strong. I run Amsoil in it and my 2018 Cummins. The Amsoil flush does work. I flush the Silverado every 10,000 and no issues. If it was an oil pump you would get a P0300 code most likely due to little oil pressure pumping up your lifters and it would in turn cause engine misfire on the collapsed lifters. If it comes back again, I do the easier fix first. The pick up tube I ring.
@@CSXtrackworker you sound you like you actually know what you are talking about. Unlike a hack like me! Thanks for sharing the info. This is what I love about TH-cam.
@@KMLTimesTwo well. We are all hacks at times when it comes to working on our trucks. These LS motors are phenomenal and usually require very little repair. I didn't mind fixing mine because it had a minor oil pan gasket leak which was annoying me. Still, well worth the time and effort. Id say to stick with the Amsoil. Even at 272,000 miles my motor still runs very smooth. You are welcome on the info. Hopefully it was just a clogged screen for ya.
The flush additive cleans out the oil filter screen that’s inside the oil pressure switch.
I had absolutely no oil pressure and did the pick up tube and o ring. Still very low but way better than like negative 20 lol. I'm going to try that stuff though. Thanks for the video
Wow, I expected that would have fixed it. Did you also try replacing the sensor and sensor screen?
Yea that was the first thing I did haha.
It was knocking at idle and it's not now so kinda a win. I'm just gonna do the oil pump next but I think it will get me to work for a few weeks before I do that, I hope.
I really wanna try this though. When we replaced that screen it was dirty as all hell.. that shits gotta clean something
@@FtwRonin what was it ?
@@kirkpatrickconstruction897 sooo how did it went?? I know its been like 2 years.. lol
I have a 2008 avalanche that have low oil pressure I did replace the sensor ind the filter didn’t work I just flush it and did the new oil and it works flushing it works
Awesome! Glad to hear that it worked. I am going to try another flush here soon.
That’s AMSoil for you! Best oil out there
Thanks Brandon. I have certainly been happy with all of their products I have tried so far.
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Wata
Transmission Fliud will do the same thing. Used it on my GMC Envoy and it works
I have heard that as well. Thank you.
Thanks has been helpful for me.
Thanks!
Amsoil quality over the years has not changed, mobil 1 is like everything else no longer what they use to be!
I am fairly new to Amsoil....but I am very happy so far. I use it in everything now!
@@KMLTimesTwo Have you tried the Signature Series ATF fluid? If you haven't switched over to it, I'd highly recommend it. I did so myself and I never felt my transmission shift so smoothly.
@@TommyViper Yes sir....I all all Amsoil at this point! lol
Holy crap!! Awesome review👍🏻
Thanks a ton!
@@KMLTimesTwo How's truck now? Did you ever change out the oil pressure sensor or/and the filter screen. I have 04 Yukon Denali 185,000 miles and gauge reading 0-20 mostly @ zero. Gonna change oil and do your tip see what happens. Excellent video.
@@bcruzin28 Not sure how much you have seen below, but a year after this video, the oil pressure would start out okay, then slowly creep down to just below 20psi at idle. (Apparently that was still within spec according to Haynes manual. All of my past GM trucks were rock solid 40psi no matter what.) I replaced the oil pick up tube o-ring. This was not fun as the front transfer has to come out. I did do another flush when I replaced the o-ring. Then my oil pressure would start a 70psi when cold, then eventual settle about 22psi when cold. (This really confused me!) It's been like this for about 2-3 months now, so I thought I would try the oil pressure sensor. I couldn't get my hands back there properly, so I had to take my intake manifold off. (I am glad I did actually, because it runs really strong now. I think I had a manifold leak that I wasn't aware of.) Anyway, the new sensor reads the same....no change. BTW, mine did not have a screen. I think some of the 07-08's did not have a screen.
So, I am still within spec, but it is bugging me. There is a possibility that when I pushed the oil pick up tube in, the o-ring didn't fully seat properly....or it's new oil pump time. I am not looking forward to it, but I suspect I will be putting in a new oil pump in the fall.
All that said, I still believe in the flush. It's results were immediately visible to me. That said, the motor had a lot of miles on it, so it can't perform miracles. It's a very cheap thing to try. I would try that, the go with the easiest thing first and replace your sensor. Good luck and let me know how it turns out!
@@bcruzin28 hurry up pond.
tahoe 2007 fixed unfortunately could not get this product right away and purchased the one from Autozone doctor flush for $4.99 and works great i put it on 5 minute new oil change and problem fixed thank u
Thanks man. Hold it holds out for you. You may eventually need to replace the o-ring but this should hold you over for a while!
That's a huge oil pressure increase! Maybe it cleaned the oil pressure sensor screen? Hopefully it cleaned things up and improved your engine life!
I've been told it could be a 3 dollar o ring on the oil pickup tube but the labor of getting to it is what kills ya? Think I'll give this a try first.
That is a major culprit in these motors for sure. I will eventually replace mine. I wanted to try a flush anyway and it did improve pressure. It has lowered back down some over time though. The flush is something that will help in other areas too.
i just put Amsoil oil on my Camaro,i hope your problem will be resolve,you can open your oil filter to see some metal flake... I have Tahoe 5.3,i will put Amsoil flush too.Just to clean engine
Thanks for the comment. I am getting ready to do another flush. I haven't changed my oil since the posting of this video. I did actually pick up the o-ring that goes around the pickup tube which is one of the problems that people indicate. I do think the flush is helpful but not always a permanent solution.
synthetic oil gives you a lower oil pressure reading as is thinner than mineral oil use Castrol GTX 15w40 mineral oil and watch the oil pressure jump up even more, and if you use Rislone 15 min engine flush just before an oil change you'd probably get it up to 80psi on tick over idling
Thanks for the comment. I had synthetic in it prior and had very low readings. This is an older truck, but in my 2014 with a similar motor, using synthetic did not have a dramatic impact on oil pressure readings. (I didn't notice any difference. I wasn't looking for it...but then again it wasn't noticeable.
Ive changed my oil from 5w30 to 5w40 and now to 0w40 5w40 was synthetic since then I have cold Start Noises when the car is warm I have no issues but this Noise at cold Start makes me Mad. İ relate it to synthetic oil I dont know what to Do. My theroy is the synthetic oil removed sludge which clogged some Filters which cant get out with normal oil change I think i have to Do an engine flush
@@burak7638 Rislone engine flush is good stuff just don’t Rev the engine as oil will be to thin for protection and make sure you let the flush all drip out once finished and when you’ve added new engine oil let the car sit for an hour or two I even turn it over a few times without it firing up just to get the oil moving around the engine 👍
@@mustangmafiatv3660 Do you recommend still synthetic oil or should I go back to 5w30. The Problem is I can only pump out the engine oil is it a problem with the sludge? I think it's not a problem because u normally dont have big stuff which cant be pumped out.
@@burak7638 I used 15w 40 Castrol GTX mineral OIL on my 1983 Jaguar XJ6 Series 3 4.2L as Mineral oil gives better protection and a few weeks before an oil change I’d use synthetic to help clear any build up and after a flush I’d use mineral oil to flush the engine too then empty it and put the good mineral stuff in it had done 89’000 miles and purred like a kitten
Oil pressure is always higher with new oil, what does it look like after 4-5 k miles.
The pressure has drooped a bit for sure. I list the amount somewhere in a previous comment. 5-10psi I think.
Was the fresh oil at operating temp like the old oil? Anything cold will produce a higher psi, the coolant temp has nothing to do with the oil temp, either. Takes 10-15 minutes of driving time to get up to temp.
Maybe not 100% up to operating temperature, but it was still very warm from running it with the flush in it. That said, the readings were consistent later when running.
Have ever oil leaks from LS engine? If yes you did flush. Any fresh oil start little leaks from seal body of engine?
That is a good question. I know that is always a concern with things like this. (A cleaner...cleaning up stuff that may be blocking leaks.) The rear seal has already been replaced in this truck, so it was a little oily when I got it, but was not aware of any leaks. I haven't seen any new ones since I used this products.
Were you getting a check engine light? That usually associates it with the screen/sensor. If not, the flush seemed to work
Surprisingly no. This is a new to me vehicle, so perhaps someone cleared out a code in the past. It's still looking good since I posted!
@@KMLTimesTwo did that fix the problem?
@@alimoe9999 I did instantly get better oil pressure. As I mentioned, it has slowly lowered over a year's time. Some have argued that it was a result of new/different oil (and not just the flush.) There are several areas to look if you have having this problems. Oil pressure sensor and screen, o-ring in oil pick up tube and oil pump. None are "fun" jobs. There are some good videos on them all. Good luck.
So I put a blue demon rear main seal and motor seal in my truck because it was leaking oil and my pressure gauge went down should I try this and see if it works or does anything anybody know what’s wrong with it
Eventually you will need a new.o-ring for the pick up tube. It is just a matter of time. I just bought a 2010 Tahoe z71 with a 5.3 im getting 36-38psi and these O-Rings harden up over time
I just picked up a new o-ring and oil pan gasket. I will do a flush again first, then replace it. Thanks!
I just did a AFM delete, new pump, new oring on the pickup, new 5/30 oil..... oil pressure at idle starts at 40 rests at 18.... when i give it the RPMs it shoots back up to 40..... weird
@@_HuckleBerry screen and sensor
I would check the o-ring on the oil pick up tube in the pan
Thanks Roger. I actually just replaced the o-ring this past weekend. It was definitely brittle and in need of replacement. That said, I am still not back to normal yet. After I replaced it, it starts out at 60psi, then once warm stays at 40psi when driving....then 20psi at idle. Next up for me is replacing the oil pressure switch. If that doesn't fix it, then I have to go back after the o-ring again. Some suggest that my issue could be a nicked o-ring or not fully seated. Fun, fun.
@@KMLTimesTwo or the cam plate seal that is another part that tends to fail. But yeah definitely a oil pressure sensor I will try first it's the simplest and easiest but if it still is the same I would not worry about that O-ring if you did just replace it chances of it nicking is possible but........ I would focused on that cam plate next
Hey man would a sludged up oil pan cause an inaccurate reading on my oil dipstick? I put the fill capacity in my car and it reads halfway up the dipstick even after the cars been off for a whole day. Would the flush clean out the oil in the pan?
I am not a mechanic, but I would say that sludge would impact your reading, but in an opposite way than what you are saying. Any sludge (that sinks to the bottom) will take the place of where oil should be. I don't think it would cause it to read low on dipstick though. The oil would be on top of sludge I think and therefore "higher up" on your dipstick. Sounds like you have a major issue that needs addressing ASAP. How do you know that there is sludge in there? If there is a lot of sludge, I would drop the oil pan. But you could try a few flushes and oil changes, but that gets costly. I don't know is how much the Amsoil Engine Flush would have on your amount of sludge.
Where can I do an AMSOIL transmission flush safely? I assume I shouldn’t do it in my driveway. I guess I need a pan to catch the old dirty oil? I have a 2000 Chevy metro lsi
Just an FYI that I have not tried it in my transmission yet. However, I did "flush" my Yukon's transmission oil. I used the method where you disconnect a transmission line, run it until a lot of it is out. Then fill it back up and do the same thing. I was VERY careful not to make a mess....but I still ended up with a lot on the floor. I even had a large piece of cardboard down as well. If you decided to take it on, find a good video for your exact car so you have a plan. I would not do it in a driveway as it will permanently stain the concrete. I did mine in my garage and the garage floor cleans up easier. Good luck!
I know on the 5.3 vortec engines they have problems with the oil pump o-rings blowing out and causing low pressure too.
Yes, I am hoping that is not my issue! Whatever the issue is, this did give me higher readings....so it helped.
It's the pick up tube o ring. It gets old and flat. Easy fix
@@robertmoore4637 Thanks sir!
@@KMLTimesTwo I just replaced one this past weekend. 5th one I’ve had to do since I did mine a few years ago. Takes a few hours depending on how dirty the vehicle is.
Nothing easy about changing the oil pump pick up tube seal. The bolt that holds it in the oil pump is extremely hard to get at with the motor in the vehicle even partially dropping the oil pan. Recommend tying a string or fishing line on it before trying to reinstall the pick up tube bolt in the oil pump so you don’t drop it in the oil pan and lose it. Just finished doing timing chain, oil pump, and water pump in my truck and that was the hardest part of the whole job.
I have a 4.7 I had the oil pump replaced along with the whole timing and gaskets because it has 270k miles. Replaced the sending unit too. And it's still saying low oil pressure? The truck does have a slight lifter tick, does that have anything to do with it? Also how many wires should the oil sending unit CONNECTOR have ? Mine only has one wire..
Hi Carlos. I am definitely not the person to answer those questions.... Lets see if someone with more knowledge sees this and responds. thanks!
Does the lifer have fleas too?
? Start Tahoe good oil pressure 40 psi motor warms up psi goes down to 20 psi at idle rev engine goes up to 30 psi i have the flush in it right now going to change oil tomorrow if that not the problem wat should I look at next.
Oil filter is important. GM undersized original filter. pf63e is somewhat larger filter and works better for ls engines in terms of oil pressure
Thanks. I am using the Amsoil oil filter and so far I am happy with it.
@@KMLTimesTwo just wanted to share this info as i lost a lifter because of low oil pressure on my 5.3 suburban. Best of luck with your truck
@@obaidullah81 Thank you!
I’m bout to use the engine flush. Wondering if anyone had issues with a lifter tapping sound. My 07 5.3 has being doing it since about this pasted January. Off and on. Would like to try this flush before I tear apart time consuming things
I don't think it will solve that. You are probably aware, but lifter issues are a big problem with some LS motors.
Did it stay at 40 after this video? Good stuff man
Before you flushed, when your oil pressure is low did your coolant temp run between 210-220?
Hey Doug. I am FL where it is always hot, but I didn't notice any change in water temp. It is right at 220 all the time. Before and after.
I read somewhere that the lowest acceptable pressure for the 5.3 AFM equipped is 20 PSI @ 1000 RPM when thoroughly warmed up..What screen associated with the sending unit are you talking about? Would have been nice to see your before and after readings when warmed up.
The oil pressure sending unit
i believe its the oil pick up tube screen
It looks well worth the cost.
scam miracle products, JUYST CHANGE THE OIL...
I honestly have the same thing literally for my Hummer H2 and I changed the oil pressure sensor twice to the GMC factory one and it got up much better but I may try this
Both my 2005 Hummer H2 and 2007 H3 have low oil pressure warnings every time I drive them but the engines run fair enough. My 2007 H3 probably has a clogged catalytic converter because it is seriously severely underpowered and will not go over 55 mph. It was not like that when I bought it. I changed the spark plugs and clean the ignition coils, removed and clean the electronic throttle body, it does not smoke, and the oil level always reads full. So I think it's a bad catalytic converter because it rattles when you floor it to high RPM. The H2 engine seems to run pretty good but the check engine light is on and says there is a evap leak. The EVAP system has charcoal pellets throughout it every time I clean it out even after I changed the charcoal canister, purge valve, and purge solenoid. Maybe I should ditch the poorly made GM luxury vehicles and go back to poorly made Ford luxury vehicles which I like better lol.
Wow, you've put a lot of work into it. Have you looked into possible bad/dirty fuel injectors? I think you are on the right track....it's either clogged going out....or coming in. I think a scan might give a clue no? Maybe have an auto parts store scan it.
I did the same on a '12 silveratoad 5.3. I used a different brand, motor medic. Mine went about 1500 miles and my pressure went back down to 30 on the freeway. I used the mobil 1 5w40. I have all the parts to swap the oil pump, just procrastinating heavily cuz i dont have a lift and the front diff has to come out. Have you had continued success with yours?
have you been able to fix it?
@@justyouraverageguy4771
The pressure stays up for about 1500 miles but then trickles back to 25 on the freeway. I planned to do it over the 4th weekend but it rained here. So no, its still not fixed.
Until i can do it i guess i will have to change it more often.
So you out the flush in with the old oil, THEN after flushing everything out you put in the new oil?
Hi William. Yes, when you are ready to change your oil, you add it in. Run it for a bit, then drain out all old oil. Add new oil and oil filter just like normal.
Put new oil take the cheapest oil and use the product I think is better !
KMLTimesTwo......Quick question. My oil.pressure was consistently at 58-60 @2k rpm warm.....I did an oil change, used an engine flush, Gunk brand, followed directions to a T........afterwards, now my oil pressure is at 48-50 @2k rpm warm. Any thoughts???
Are you running different oil? That is the only thing I can think of. Maybe it loosened some things up and changed your pressure. Either way, that is great oil pressure!
I just got done and still dealing with low oil pressure reading. I changed the oil pressure sensor last weekend and still running around 20 after driving for a bit. But the oil pressure light is still on after clearing it. Maybe I need to try this as well when I get closer to an oil change. The engine temp is good, doesn’t run hot or fluctuate.
You may also need to look into your oil pickup tube o-ring. That is a big culprit in the low oil pressure issue. Good luck!
BG makes an engine flush that absolutely works
It cost about 350 but your engine will be 98% clean
Lots of videos here on you tube
Replace oil filter to factory recommend. My 07 gmc has this issue and I changed filter and helped the pressure
I have the same thing now. What ended up being the issue?
I have had 2 Avalanches now and it happened to both… the first was something with the engine (can’t remember)… with my current it was simply a bad oil filter 😑
Any update since last year? I’m experiencing the same low pressure issue
After a year or so, I started to have issues again. First, I ended up replacing the oil pressure sensor, then oil pick up tube o-ring. That was a lot of work, especially by oneself. That didn't help much, just a little. I went back in and replaced oil pump, cam shaft retainer plate. (I replaced timing chain and cam position sensor while I was there.) It is a Melling high volume pump, so now I have 60psi when cold. When it warms up, I have 50 psi when driving an 25 at idle. Good I guess, but I am still not satisfied. (My neighbors new truck varies like this as well, but this is lower than I would like when idling.) Unfortunately, I didn't put the proper o-ring on the oil pick up tube when I put it all back together. (Melling gives you a thicker green o-ring. This is a possible problem still and I might go back in one more time.) Also, there is a pressure relief spring thing in the oil pan. If I do drop the pan again, I will replace that.) If I do these two things and it is still not better, then I have larger issues. All my previous trucks were always at 40 psi, but I can't find out what truck was stock. Do you remember on yours?
Oil pickup o-ring was my problem after replacement pressure doubled
Thanks for the comment. While the flush definitely helped, it is not where I want it to be. I plan to eventually try the sensor and screen......and if that doesn't work, then the pick up tube. I am not looking forward to either!
Oil pickup ring was huge issue with my 6.2vortec it was hard square and brittle
Did the pressure go up when the engine was at running temp?
The pressure would go up after a fresh oil change. Oil breaks down over time, especially at 7500 mile intervals. Plus, did the appropriate amount come out? Because I'm sure the correct amount went in. I say this bc I have done the same thing to my truck and oil pressure drops the higher the mileage on the oil
Yeah, it had the right amount of oil in it. I plan to do the same thing (flush and change oil) here again soon to see what it does.
I have an 07 Yukon Denali, I start off at about 50 psi. and it slowly creeps to about 20..any idea what could be wrong
I personally think it’s better to just switch to Amsoil signature and change your oil from using that should clean the stuff up
That's the plan! Thanks for the comment.
I would add, change oil more often than computer indicates. I believe the 7500 mile interval is a big part of the problem, perhaps along with a poor PCV system. The gunk which is often found on the OP sensor screen would seem to indicate a bypass problem as well.
So I have a 2003 Escalade and the oil I’m sure sensor came on and was replaced. But the oil pressure is still at 0 until I accelerate then it goes up. Now it just says low oil pressure. Any suggestions?
Hi Clayton, my oil pressure was not as low as yours was, but the flush definitely helped increase my oil pressure. It has certainly decreased again over time. The most common problem is the o-ing on the oil pick up tube needs to be replaced. (The tube is in the oil pan.) There are some good videos out there on this process. The o-ring itself is a very cheap part, but not easy to get to. You need to drop the oil pan and that requires removal of the cross brace and lowering of your front differential (not removal, but lowering.) That will get you access to the pick up tube and you can replace the o-ring. I would recommend a new oil pan gasket while you are there. With the oil, oil pan gasket and part, you are looking at around $100 to do it yourself. I can't imagine how much it costs to have a shop do it. $600??
Thank you very much!!
Also keep in mind that these are older GM vehicles, and if they have over 150K miles, especially if they're mostly city/short trip miles, then the main bearing is likely wearing out. This wear creates space that reduces oil pressure in the block. A common symptom of this is low oil pressure at idle at temp. GM engines just aren't built to last very long, even when you keep them well maintained. You can drive them for a long time with the bearing wearing out, but it only gets worse and is a pretty good sign that you'll be needing a new vehicle in the coming few years.
So do you think I can drive like this for another few years?
After I put FLUSH into engine, can I drive to a few miles in order to get oil change service?
Don't know for sure, but I wouldn't. Maybe go to the parking lot of the place doing your oil change first and pour it in and run it there?
Gonna be doing this on my next oil change for our 07 tahoe. The 4.8 has 167k on it bought it used from the dealership when it had 137k.
Hopefully doing this will bump the oil psi back up and no more lifter tick.
Good luck with it. Please report back your results.
Will do 👍
I would be tempted to try it on 5W40
I assume that would work, but check with Amsoil to make sure. (I don't have the bottle any more to check.)
@@KMLTimesTwo See what your manual says - I use 4W40 Fuchs full synthetic in my diesel RV
My 1999 Astro Van Might Be 10 Pounds Oil Pressure
all GM V8 has this issue
since doing the engine flush is your oil pressure maintaining the same numbers 40 psi at idle?
You can look at the dates of the video but I think I'm about eight months from the oil change? My oil pressure has reduced and the last few months. It fluctuates but it's about 5 to 10 psi lower than the original video posting. I plan to do another flushing when I do my next oil change to see if that brings it back up. Either way I probably should replace the sensor and screen. Some even suggest pick up tube in the oil pan. I'll post another follow-up video when I do my next oil change but of course I'm not driving very much now. So it may be a while.
@@KMLTimesTwo oh ok well I changed my pickup tube last month and mine is running about 30psi when hot, I was just wondering if this would help mine. Thanks
@@joelstovall1128 Did that repair improve anything at all? I assume you know that the other thing people say is replacing the sensor and screen. (Back and top of the motor under the firewall.)
@@KMLTimesTwo not for me it didn’t I have a ls swaped 5.3 it’s running very good, I changed the pick up tube oring when I swapped out the truck oil pan for a shorter pan. I’m running a mechanical oil pressure gauge check the hole for a screen and it’s not there I went to a conventional 10w30 last week and got rid of the mobile 1 to see if removing synthetic would help. But it’s still the same. I did a engine flush using a regular engine flush material, no change. So that’s why I asked did the amsoil seem to work
@@joelstovall1128 same story here mine is at 18 to 20 and I'm now getting a check engine light for oil pressure switch and changed the switch 3 times no change
Same issue with my 2018 2500 6.0 gas Silverado where oil pressure reads 0. I changed oil pump twice and oil pressure sensor several times and still same problem. (Oil pressure low turn vehicle off) beeping noise. Do you think this solution would help me. Please anyone with a solution comment under this
I don't think it will help this issue. Try getting someone to measure it with a mechanical gauge. I eventually did an oil pump and cam retaining plate. You might also look and see if you have a pressure relief valve in your pan. I replaced that too. I can't imagine it actually being 0 for a long period of time (and it still be running.) But if it is truly that low, my bet is new crank bearings.
Did you ever change the o ring and if you did. Did it help it
Yes, and it didn't help. I later replaced oil pump as well. Now I get 60psi when cold, 22 when warm. When I put pump in, I didn't use the right O-ring! So, I will take it apart one more time and put right o-ring in....and also replace the pressure relief valve in the oil pan. (I wish I had proactively done that as well....some report that being an issue.) Not sure that all the motors have this valve in oil pan though.
PS - currently I'm getting 40 PSI at highway speeds when warm. The range that gave you before was that idle.
oil pressure is a measurement of the oil restriction within the engine orfices. Within reason a measurement of 10psi per 1000 rpm is within spec. Low oil pressure (within reason) usually allows good oil flow through moving parts. i personally do not like to see very high oil pressure as this equates to oil restriction and lower horse power. You be the judge.
Thanks for the info. I was just comparing the readings that I was used to from my previous GM trucks. This one seemed to be way different.
@@KMLTimesTwo Great tutorial thanks for the information and rely. PS keep smilin
As the engines goes through some cycles of heat AND fan kicks in AND cools It back ..the oil pressures stays at 40 psi?
The temperature does not seem to have an obvious effect on the oil pressured. I am in FL and it is always hot. Fans run a lot. When it idles for long periods, it goes back down to 20. Normal driving it stays at 40.
The temperature does not seem to have an obvious effect on the oil pressured. I am in FL and it is always hot. Fans run a lot. When it idles for long periods, it goes back down to 20. Normal driving it stays at 40.
I’m driving from Florida to Boston towing a boat .
And this come out of no where
I just parked on the Highway in Georgia.
Low oil pressure?
Yes sir
I think most people's issues are lower oil pressure over time. Sounds yours went to zero or low very rapidly. I would be more concerned about that. Assuming you are not leaking anything and it rapidly went very low, I would change out your oil pressure sensor and screen first. I wouldn't take my word for it though, I don't know all that is going on and I am not a pro. Good luck and let me know what you find out.
@@KMLTimesTwo you think is pk to drive it like that ?
@@aymenem5304 It is all relative. Are you 0 PSI? 20? I am not a mechanic, but I would start to worry if it drops below 20. That said, that is low and probably should be addressed asap.
Run flush every 2ns or 3rd oil change. Use synthetic oil and restlone nano prime
Do you know if this fixed it permanently
@@alimoe9999 will limit the problem from occuring/coming back
I wanted to add that my oil pressure has dropped down some over time.
@@KMLTimesTwo the flush or nanoprime dropped oil pressure?
Through my experience every time you change the oil you put fresh oil with fresh viscosity I always get 5 more PSI every time I do it put about 2 or 3000 miles on it and report back to us please thank you
I will never buy Mobil 1 again in my life. Bought it; it is super expensive oil. First off it looked like crap! Engine began making noise running sluggish. Swapped it out for Pennzoil Platinum Full synthetic. Way better.
Thanks for sharing
If you look at the factory service manual 20 psi at idle is not a problem. When oil is hot, it thins out and oil pressure will drop. When the oil is cold, or just after an oil change as you stated in the video, it will naturally show a higher pressure reading. To compare apples to apples, you need to take the temp of the oil. Oil also drops is viscosity as it is used, and that is some used oil. Your comparing old oil with new oil. The flush does not prove anything. I've been using Amsoil for 30 years. 20 is not low.
Thanks for the info Brian. I have never had that low of an oil pressure in any of my 3 other GM trucks that had basically the same motor. (Also in same environment/heat.) Nor, did the oil pressure swing that much. I think there were times that is was even reading lower than 20. I did due one oil change previous to this with "normal" oil, and it did not have as much of an impact as the Amsoil oil cleaner. While it is "solved" in my mind, I am not saying that it proves anything. Just showed my results for having used it. That said, it could be the cleaner or the oil. Those were the only 2 changes.
@@KMLTimesTwo I’m getting ready to do this flush on my 6.2 is yours still performing great with the oil pressure as shown in the video?
@@chadbrooks9029 So it's been ~8 months since I changed it. It reads a little lower than it did after I changed it, but still higher than before. (If makes sense.) I think ultimate, I need to replace the sensor. That said, I will do another flush before I do anything to see what it does. For the (low) cost of it, I would recommend.
3-5psi lower
@jason white No, I don't think it will do that. I have heard that "thicker" oil could help in this situation, but not sure.
At idle what should my oil pressure read on my 08 cadillac cts
Sorry, not familiar with CTS Caddys. I would love to have one though!
Man, no love for the Avalanche. Just kidding. Great video man!
Lol. I have always liked those, but never owned one.
How is the engine now? Thanks in advance. Wanna give it a shot.
Hey Seb. It worked for quite a bit. That said, it is not a miracle elixir. (I was surprised actually it had any effect at all.) Anyway, about a year and about 10K miles after this, the oil pressure started to go lower. It would start out around 40, then go down to about 18-20. This started a bunch of work for me. I replaced the oil pressure sensor. No change. Then changed out the o-ring in the pick up tube. (This was a major job.) Very little change. I then replaced the oil pump (with a Melling high volume) and also replaced the cam shaft retainer plate (that is an issue as well.) Now I get 60 psi at start, and when it warms up, I get 50psi driving, 20 psi at idle. (Apparently that is still well within spec, but too low for my comfort.)
Well, one problem is I didn't follow directly and replace the orange pick up tube o-ring with the green one as melling advises. So that could be an issue. The other thing that could be an issue is there is a pressure relieve spring in the oil pan. I've had the oil pan out twice now....do you think I replaced it? Of course not! So, next oil change, I plan to drop the pan again and change out the spring and o-ring. If that doesn't fix it, it is more than like cam bearings or something major.
Good luck!
@@KMLTimesTwo nice bro, you spent a lot of time with this issue and learning a lot. Therefore I need a mechanical intervention, and disregard amsoil? What do you think?
@@sebseb3268 I have heard others have success with amsoil or other oil "cleaners." This would help if the screen on your sensor is dirty. It is a relatively cheap and easy thing to try.
@@KMLTimesTwo But the Amsoil Flush isn’t directly related to those problems that arise from using it? Thanks
@@dashcamjourney4599 That is a great question and I can't give you an accurate answer. There is just no way for me to tell. If you have any concerns, don't try it. I had low oil pressure to begin with, so it was a low risk try for me. All that said, I don't believe that the Amsoil contributed to my issue. I've used a different product in the past (in a different vehicle) and I don't think it did any harm either. Thanks!
AMSOIL #1
I am fairly new to Amsoil, but love it so far!!! Thanks for watching.
Car slowly creeping down in oil pressure is a sign of worn engine. Rarely is it the pump. Pumps create volume not pressure, your bearings, oil screens (to some extent), mains, cambridge, camshafts, cam bearings/cradle. The oil pump throughout the cars life is bathed in oil. unless your car is known to have an oil pump issue. First look for actual damage before replacing it. Pump should spin freely and never catch. Teeth inside pump should look sharp any bent or scared gears could be source of issue.
Generally speaking, you are right, but the LS based motors have some things that cause low oil pressure that are not due to engine wear. (If you don't address them....it will cause engine wear of course.) Sensor, o-ring, etc.
@@KMLTimesTwo you are right. Im just adressing its wear most of the time. Like rarely in a car like mine does the oil pump fail, its ran on a chain on the crank and bathed in oil most of its life. It can fail. Its just much more likely for cam/ crank wear to have occured becauss of dirty oil rather than a lack of it in my opinion. Causing low oil pressure after a long time of getting beat up. 167k mile bought my car used. Cylinder head is toast. Has oil pressure but not what it should. Pulled my valve cover to find that the cams are worn pretty badly.. in my car though again its very rare to have an oil pump fail. In my case an actual screen in oil feed broke loose and the cams basically ate it. Either that or its sitting somewhere in an oil passage restricting oil flow. Dont have the money for a new cylinder head because i spent it on a pump before i took my head off :D
10w30 on my opinion amsoil
I think that is a little thicker no? I put whatever is recommended, but I am certainly open to going against OEM recommendations when it does make sense. Thanks for the comment.
How has your truck been?
It worked for quite a bit. That said, it is not a miracle elixir. (I was surprised actually it had any effect at all.) Anyway, about a year and about 10K miles after this, the oil pressure started to go lower. It would start out around 40, then go down to about 18-20. This started a bunch of work for me. I replaced the oil pressure sensor. No change. Then changed out the o-ring in the pick up tube. (This was a major job.) Very little change. I then replaced the oil pump (with a Melling high volume) and also replaced the cam shaft retainer plate (that is an issue as well.) Now I get 60 psi at start, and when it warms up, I get 50psi driving, 20 psi at idle. (Apparently that is still well within spec, but too low for my comfort.)
Well, one problem is I didn't follow directly and replace the orange pick up tube o-ring with the green one as melling advises. So that could be an issue. The other thing that could be an issue is there is a pressure relieve spring in the oil pan. I've had the oil pan out twice now....do you think I replaced it? Of course not! So, next oil change, I plan to drop the pan again and change out the spring and o-ring. If that doesn't fix it, it is more than like cam bearings or something major.
Good luck!
@@KMLTimesTwo thanks for responding, I’m battling this problem for myself… just watched a video about someone changing out the actual pigtail from the sensor , maybe try that at some point too.
@@kaylyngreen8118 One thing that some recommend is getting a shop to measure oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. I don't know what they charge for that, but it may save a lot of chasing and replacing parts.
Those engines also have an oil pickup tube, and the O-ring sometimes goes bad. But they designed it to have two bolts to hold it up onto the engine. And they decided to delete one of the bolt holes on the pickup tube even though the other bolt-hole is still in the block. If you take a good strong washer. Pinch the other side of that oil pickup tube flange, you won't have that problem again. If General Motors morons had not deleted the rest of the flange oh, you still would never have that issue come up.
About a week before you do an oil change, take a quart of transmission fluid or Marvel Mystery Oil and put it in the engine and drive it for about a week. It will keep everything in that engine spotlessly clean.
Mobile one is junk, super tech test better than mobile one. And I believe it's actually made by the same company. But every test I've seen when supertech is pitted against Mobil 1 super tech comes out on top
Thanks for the comment. I plan to put a new o-ring in it soon. I will report back how it improves.
The new oil filter fixed your issue
Are you suggesting that it's the new oil filter or the amsoil oil filter that helped? Previous new (generic) oil filters did not impact my oil pressure.
Mobil 1 is not nearly high-quality enough to leave in an engine for 7,500 miles.
The reason is not because of the screen that goes immediately below the oil pressure sending unit. The oil passages that feed that accoutrement, get sludged up. Doesn't matter how many times you change a screen, a boil is not getting to a good it's not going to register much oil pressure. It's a dead head unit. And when it gets pledged up it's not going to transfer oil pressure. Engine sludge up quite easily when you drive them easily or short trips.
Amsoil is the best
Engine is cleaner than your dashboard. At least you have your priorities straight
lol, you aint wrong. That said, that dash is mostly cracked, in many pieces and I am getting ready to replace it.
@@KMLTimesTwo your video really help me out
Pennzoil ultra platinum is the next best thing to amsoil amsoil is to expensive for there oil
My personal opinion 7,500 miles is too long even with full synthetic oil. I change mine every 5,000 miles with full synthetic and haven’t had any oil pressure issues. I would change the oil every 5,000 miles with full synthetic and every 3,000 miles with regular oil.
You have awfully low miles on that engine to be having low oil pressure. My 2007 Tahoe 5.3 has 315K miles on it and it is doing the same thing. I believe the engine is just dirty. The perimeters are 25- 65 psi oil pressure.
Low tire pressure also
It needs all new tire pressure sensors.
Fresh oil and engine not up to temp will show higher oil pressure. I'd be very surprised if this lasted more than a few hundred miles. You acted surprised that the Mobil 1 was dirty after 7500 miles and after the flush additive. I would have been very concerned if the oil was not dirty after 7500 miles.
My opinion it’s always the screen
Thanks for the comment and I think you are probably/normally right. That said, mine did not have a screen.
Tried this, no change.
Sorry Vince. Looks like you have a few other things to consider now. Easiest I believe would be the sensor.
blows up 😅
Not yet, but there's still time!
ok your car should have 40 weight oil .12: is setting your putting in 30
This motor calls for 5w-30. Thanks.
Dirty oil not a knock on the oil, its cleaning the gunk out of your engine and oil pan. Its so weird people say these things. If you can change the way the oil looks in a sludged up engine vs a brand new engine... it aint the oil
I'm not so sure you should give the engine flush credit for fixing your low oil pressure problem. The oil filter was probably sludged up, and changing your filter was the actual fix. Keep in mind too that if that filter gets too clogged up, the bypass valve will open up, and you won't get clean oil circulating in your engine. Better not to wait 7,500 miles to change your oil on an older car.
Thanks Jay. The immediate change would be either due to new oil, new oil filter or flush. (Or combination of all 3.) While anything is possible, I don't think my filter was clogged up with sludge. But, this was NOT a long term fix for this vehicle. It can not fix things like bad oil pumps, etc. For $10, I felt like it was well worth it and I will continue to use it. (3 years of being a customer....and 2 years AFTER this video, I became an Independent Amsoil Dealer.)
Ok
Thanks Patrick!
only is you knew you problem was in your oil filter lol
Not sure what you mean by that, but don't believe that the oil filter is the issue.
Mike, please speak English next time lol