How to Frame a Basement YOURSELF | Complete Guide
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2024
- If you are considering framing your own basement, this will teach you how to diy frame your basement.
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This was great. You really focused on the "why" of all of these parts, which so many videos fail to do. Super helpful for someone like me who has an organic interest but no training (and surprisingly poor intuition) in building stuff.
I've done several of these and I always mount the top plate to the joist first, then build the walls on the floor and slide them in, I find that while still tight, you're not fighting with the wall in that angle that makes it just a little taller and much tighter until it's at it 90 degree.
I love the clamps on the header ! Genius
you’re such a phenomenal teacher. i’ve learned so much in this short video. you really packed lots of knowledge in such a short time. thank you so much!!!
Thank you for explaining how to do a door frame and what the rough opening measurement is. I have been searching and couldn't find it. Plus, this was easy to understand.
Great video buddy. I'm currently about to get into this project and getting all the tips to help my build go better. God bless.
Thanks for the kind words!
Awesome video! Can't wait to see the finished product. It always seems like it's going to be so much easier to build the wall on the ground and stand it up until you build the first one and it doesn't fit. 🙂 I have succumbed to that temptation more than once.
I’m glad you liked it! I couldn’t agree more!
@@theweekendbuilderyou refer to the walls as being load bearing, but in a basement the load is supported by the walls and beam. You framed it like it was a normal wall above grad nothing wrong with it, but you don’t need to double up the top plate or build headers above the doors that is overkill.
Subscribed to your channel. Incredibly helpful. Thank you for linking helpful tools. Keep doing that please. Not a lot of channels I've viewed does that little extra effort. Cheers!
Súper cool thanks!!! This really encouraged me to get on the go of framing my own basement I will follow this video a million times while doing it! Haha hello from Utah and thanks!!!
Load the nail first then the .22 round in the Ramset.
Great explanation!
As im learning to do all this myself HOPEFULLY This year while building my 1st small home, i appreciate you and this video and hopefully if u have more like others i can learn and grow from,
Thank You
Thank You
Josh A. Cyr (From Maine)
Hi Josh, I do sales for Hammonds In Skowhegan! Let me know if we can do anything for you to help the process. Happy building!
Great job explaining thanks
Glad you liked it!
I'm so glad the header stayed in place at 9:14.
Good job bro. Incredible video.
Thank you!
GREAT VIDEO 👍🏾
Thank you!
Awesome video!
Thank you!
What this video taught me is that I should NOT be doing this myself 😂
😂😂
💀🤣
Agreed
Great video for DIY 🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨
Thank you!
Great video! Do you have a link for the nail gun you used?
You are the man! My empty unfinished basement is jealous it doesn’t have such a stud as an owner 😂
After watching this video, it will!
Dam boys calm down
Starting just after 10:06, did you plumb the top and bottom plates to each other before putting the studs in place?
Good video
Thank you!
I think framing doors and windows with traditional headers is good practice but none of the partition walls are "load bearing" in an unfinished basement.
Exactly.
Newbie here-that was my Q, why did one of the doors have a header and the one at the end not have one? Do they technically all not have to have one in the unfinished basement?
Great video, but I have a question. When nailing the frame into the concrete, how far apart should your concrete nails be? And how many should you use? It looks like you just placed one nail dead center every couple of feet, but I can't tell. Thank you!
Great video. Why call it a load bearing wall (new) if there was none before? Were metal posts carrying the load to the basement floor? If so no new wall needs to hold weight right?
Great question! It originally had a large beam that carried the load but I needed to cut the beam for a doorway. So since I cut the beam about 75% of the way through, I had to support it. I did that by just making it a load bearing wall.
You consult an engineer on that? No judgement. But typically you gotta go through them when modifying a main beam. Main reason is there needs to be a footer poured under any load bearing walls. Many fail to do that.@@theweekendbuilder
You can build your non load bearing walls a little short, set your top plate and shim between them. No need to fight it.
Thanks for the tip!
This technique has saved me so many times. Just have your studs 1/4 inch shorter to allow you easily stand the wall up and then shim to header at the required distances
I framed my first of more partition walls. with one entrance door. It took in all about 11.50 hours. Its 7' 1/2" x 14'. Its for a sound and media focused room primarily so it has to have close nice tight tolerances. Which it does. Rockwool vapor barrier and caulking along each and every joint coming up next. I might also go with a more expensive drywall with additional acoustic properties. The framing aspect itself is easy af. No one should be intimidated with approaching roughing in their own wall/s. If your in need some go for it. I bet I can do a better job than the local neighborhood "handy man" hanging the drywall, too. Btw never let an un licensed contractor anywhere near your house.
Thanks for the comment!
Please, please. Replace that banana stud in the frost wall next to your door opening !
When installing the header (9:20), why do you have 2 headers offset like that, one on top of the other? To me it looks like you wanted to shift the door to the right a bit. Or is that configuration better for strength? Thanks
Is there a code for nail size on non-load bearing partition walls. Everything I read online says they need to be 3.25 inches length 16d (0.148 inches) diameter but the only framing nails for nail guns in the store are 3.25 inches length and 0.120.inch diameter. Am I missing something?
you don't need a moisture barrier behind the studs where the concrete is?
After speaking to our town inspector, he clarified that most basements don’t require vapor barriers. However, where a basement wall is less the 80% buried by exterior soil (that number may fluctuate by state / country / local and national regulations), a vapor barrier is required. Part of my basement is completely underground and part of it above grade, so I’m going to have to use a vapor barrier partially around my basement.
hi i am building a room in a warehouse but the warehouse ceiling is much higher than the actual room being built. so how would you construct the stud room ceiling as i see many videos making stud walls and attaching them to ceiling rafters but that wont be possible with my project , am basically building a cube box with a door.
Just build the walls like he shows in the video attaching the floor plate to the concrete and once the walls are up you can build the ceiling framing the same way. Just when you measure be sure to include the width of your framing lumber and then just slide the ceiling sections up on top of the walls and attach with nails.
Since it’s just a room inside of a warehouse you don’t have to worry too much because there is no load bearing walls. You are pretty much just framing a cube to attach drywall to
how much gap I have to make for 36" door ?
👌👍
Those studs look so bowed
Why are the headers built like that @2:22, I have never seen the 2x4s below the 2x10/12 header lumber--always the opposite??
How much does it cost per square feet?
Your basement walls are the load bearing walls. All the extra headers and studs are completely overkill.
How can any of these walls be load-bearing if the house is already standing? Honest question.
How much for the material?
great.
Thank you!
Measurement for the door?
Sliding in the top as opposed to bottom first will be easier
Great video. just one quick question how do you figure out if the wall is load bearing or not when you have no blueprint?
In a basement there should be no load bearing walls. The load of the upper/main floor is all held up by the main beam & jack-posts that is put in when the home is built; which means there is absolutely no need for double plates.
if you already have current framed walls in the basement that the builder did then they may be load bearing. You can look at the top of the wall and see if any joists are resting on them.
I was told to paint DRYLOK on basement walls before framing.
What size nails did you use to frame?
There are different ones that you will need based on your framing nailer. Mine were 3” 21 degree framing nails
i would never install basement walls directly against the concrete, there should be an air gap and space for concrete to be able to breathe and you don't want moisture to be drawn into the stud walls from concrete if there is any moisture present being absorbed through the foundation walls when wet outside.
Treated wood should be used on the sill plate directly against the floor, or a membrane should be used. No air gap. If you have water issues you should not finish your basement until you get it dry. What do you think is going to happen when you put drywall in a damp basement? Regardless if you have a gap or not that dry wall will get mold.
@andrewf8486 I'm building a garage 16x16 on a concrete slab...will pressure treated wood be fine or what's your recommendation? Thanks!
@@FikretCekicbase plate should be pressure treated with gasket between wood and concrete. Double protection.
omg your so correct!!always have an air gap , concrete absorbs moisture
@@andrewf8486 my original comment was with respect to framed walls resting against concrete foundation walls. They shouldn't be installed directly against the concrete but provide an air gap. Concrete is porous and moisture can and will penetrate foundation walls and try to come inside without walls being sealed out. You don't want wood framed walls absorbing moisture from the concrete and it will happen over time. Air gap will always help. I completely understand and get installation against the concrete floor.
Those studs are so bowed lol
Watch your hands and fingers bro. Grab further down the stud... I was tight there a few times 😂😂😂😂
Why not just increase the stud length instead of use a double top plate?
I think he has higher ceilings so the 8' stud length isn't long enough.
Great question! I have 9’ ceilings so the studs I needed were 104 5/8ths. It would cost a lot more to buy ten foot studs and cut them down and it would add a lot of work.
The other reason to have the double top plate is for nailing sheetrock.
Hi! @@aavronestep9031 could you elabore a bit more, In what way does the regular process of hanging the drywall changes?
Ok, now why are you adding a load bearing header on an interior wall? The basement, as it was without interior walls, didn't need one?
My basement had quite a few stud walls and that particular wall was load bearing so I had to add one!
Again with the 15 1/4 second stud measurement. I still don’t get it.
Ppl dont understand that framing basements it is extrmely hard to prebuild your walls on the floors, it is not always available and it is awlays annoying, upper plate, lower plate and just do your damn studs
So true! Framing in place is the superior rout for a basement
The bottom line is that Jessica was wrong and I was right
Already did it wrong, you should have one pressure treated board on floor and one mom on top of the pressure treated one
You don’t have to do that.