Charging to 30 VOLTS?! Ford Escape Goes NUTS!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2025
- Neighbor called me to take a look at his 2006 Ford Escape.
He said there's some electrical issues like the cluster going dead and some burning electrical smell under the hood.
When I get there the battery is completely DEAD...this should be interesting :)
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Enjoy!
Ivan
Just hold the engine at red line for 10 minutes. The fan and pulley will self clearance...
Or WD 40 to cut down on the grinding noise 🤣
Watch Wes Weld 😁
I was thinking a washer.
😂🤣😄😀
Lmao @Watch Wes Work
It's great how you always 'own' a problem and get the customers vehicle sorted out as if it were yours. Great advice BTW, keep up the good work.
Yep, I've gotten burned when I did the same, turning in the core and/didn't inspect the "new" part prior to installing it.
Fascinating diag and repair Ivan, thanks.
I managed in a parts distribution center for 13 years. My bet would be that unit was dropped at some point. Then noone bothered to check to see if it was damaged. I always told my employees if they made a mistake or dropped something always check the part. Always act like your the one depending on that part to be on time and in operational condition. BTW really enjoy your videos.
I replaced 2 alternators on these escapes... huge pita for sure. You have to make sure to reinstall the alternator cooling shroud (as much as it's a further pain). My lesson learned when I did this last was...only use OEM. I too had an aftermarket alt fail... and this is NOT the job you want to have to warranty. (the first time I did this the car had just been oil spray rust proofed - such a lousy job!)
Wow I'm amazed that didn't fry all the electronics! I've been burnt with reman parts like the rest of us. The location of that alternator is unbelievably bad. I think I would have been swearing an awful lot if I was replacing that 😁 Well done for keeping your cool 👍🏻
Well ... he doesn't record everything he does. Could have been some parts left out. 🤭
Ivan, I can't believe that you remained so calm in the face of all that adversity. But, that's you. Great job.
I’ve had problems with parts on just about every vehicle I’ve worked on for the last two months. Quality control coming from all the auto parts companies is really turned pathetic.
One positive thing, I’m loving my ThinkTool Pros I got thru your site. Thank you sir.
As usual, top shelf. I have a guy here in Santa Clarita that does all my starters and alternators. I never buy from a parts house. Many of them r junk. In 15 years, I have only had a couple that he promptly fixed. Plus he’s way cheaper than the parts houses. Win win!! Cool vid. Appreciate all the built in over voltage protection
Pro tip: Always ask the counter guy to test your "new" or reman alternator before you leave the store. I had this experience with a crap reman alternator from a nationwide auto parts store (think green shamrocks).
Good thinking ✅️
I would have exchanged the junk, new, reman for 'another one just like it'. But, that would have clearly been a mistake. Excellent problem solving , Ivan.
Thanks for taking us along Ivan! Cheers!
This reminds me of my Yamaha class at MMI. The instructor had JUST finished explaining to all of us in the classroom, before we ambled out to the shop, about how NOT to rev a motorcycle with the alternator (on models so equipped) full-fielded. So, we get out in the shop and start playing with alternators. Me and my buddy were checking out my bike when out of our peripheral vision we saw a welding arc directly across from us! I looked up opposite where it was coming from, and saw the guy next to me covering his eyes, while the wall behind him lit up like the space shuttle was coming in for a landing just feet in front of us, LOL! It was flickering like there was a transformer melting down, HAHAHA! That was no welding arc - that was the HEADLIGHT of a bike with about 140 AC volts going through it! The kid had the alternator full-fielded, and started revving the crap out of the bike, HAHAHAHA! No sooner did the arc happen, it disappeared, and the bike was silent. The kid was looking all around dumbfounded as to why the key was doing nothing, and the bike wouldn't crank. After replacing the main fuse, the bike cranked ... and cranked ... and cranked! DEAD. No spark! CDI box was fried to a cinder! The instructor was not too happy - he came over immediately, suspecting what had just happened: "WHAT DID I JUST TELL YOU, Xxxxx???" Was pretty funny from our perspective! We were all like deer in the headlights when that bulb was like a Xenon HID, long before they were invented, HAHAHAHA!!! Was just like an arc flash! Too funny!!
Sucks about that junk alternator. Sign of the times. I've had a bad month here FULL of defective NEW parts!! INFURIATING!! 🥵 Glad you were able to cobble together something good out of 2 bad parts. Exactly what I had to do with a timing belt tensioner on a Toyota 3.3 in a Highlander recently!
Amazing story 😂
Bad replacement parts seems to be a disturbing trend these days. I bought a set of rear wheel bearings( source un-named) for a 2013 Hyundai Elantra, one was good and one was not so good. These were not bottom of the line parts $140.00 each, I returned both and bought the OEM Hyundai. After I recovered from the sticker shock, I installed them and problem was solved. Unfortunately this seems to be an issue with the aftermarket parts industry. Not to say all aftermarket parts are inferior, but I am getting a lot more parts that need to be returned. The check before install has become a must as of late. As always an outstanding video, thanks for sharing Ivan.
As I repair my own cars. I save a lot of labor costs. So i buy OEM parts. The total costs are still in my favor. LOL
@@willemstreutgers1154 I repair my own, as well as other peoples problem children. The struggle is real and to add insult to injury I live in the rust belt to compound the issues.
Not only "these days", as I've wasted countless hours over the DECADES. If the auto parts stores had to pay shop rate for defects, i wouldn't care as much. I only recommend top tier or OEM these days, and I still get burned occasionally. Very annoying.
Oh man, I was excited. Thought this was going to be part 5 on the Jeep
Good going, Ivan! Like you, I'm really surprised the 30 Volts didn't fry at least some of the modules in the Escape. Simply amazing! Believe it or not, back in the 70's, a company made a kit that allowed you to use the car's alternator to power a 120 volt outlet! I installed one of these (under protest) for a friend, and it actually worked, proving that even though the magnetic field normally limits the output of the stator, it can go on up there if commanded to. I don't recall if the output was picked up ahead of the diodes or not, but it would power tools of the day, such as drills or circular saws that were marked "universal motor". Maybe the output was still DC. I don't think it would work with variable-speed tools (not many around then, if any at all), and I don't think it regulated at 120 volts. It was one of those things that in theory should not work, but in practice, it does.....
AFAIK modern automotive electronics is designed (required?) to withstand 40 Vmax transients V+ supply to ground.
back in the "70"s i worked on some ambulances that had modified alternators so the customer compartment could have 120v, since most all medical equipment took that. you had to make sure it was disconnected on the 120 volt system to start and when you engaged it there was no load or you'd fry them instantly.
We had a ford fusion in our shop and I was the only one who didn't condemn the alternator from the get go. The boss made me do the alternator twice because he did t understand the operation of the smart charging system.ended up being Gen com and battery wires off the main harness behind the left fog lamp. Well atleast ford keeps us in business! lol great video Ivan.
Great job as always! I had the same problem with an Advance Auto reman alternator I almost put on my friend's 2016 Chevy Sonic. The pulley was rubbing on the case. Good thing I tried spinning it before I put it on!
Just another crap day at the office 😬😬
Well done for your persistence Ivan 👏👍
Wow, talk about quality control! I remember the last alternator I got was from Mexico, but had no issues. This is a lesson to always check to see if the pulley spins while at the store. Great job going above and beyond to get the customer back on the road.
Junk replacement aftermarket crap. Burned again! So frustrating! Appreciating your work Ivan.
I spent the majority of my automotive career as a master tech with Ford, Lincoln and Mercury. Somethings I do not mind purchasing aftermarket, but with a three hour repair I would definitely go OEM. The quality is just that much better.
As a backyard hack, I've often wondered about design engineering within modern engine compartments. Seems the intent is increasing the difficulty in making a repair. The location of this alternator affirms this. Thanks for the instruction and warning about reman parts.
Not a bad intent they just dont care. They want to offer choice of many different engines in same car and use same engine in many different cars. Some combinations are better some leave minimum space.
Good tip on keeping the old parts until it is all fixed. Thanks, Ivan.
Us gray haired guys remember when Ford regulators were mounted on the fender well. Two bolts, a five minute swap.
The good old simple machine days
Not only Ford...
Ivan, I considered buying one of these at one time. Thank God I dodged that bullet. Nothing like some good basic automotive work. Hope you're having a great day. Thanks for Sharing!
The customer should have had you address the cover gasket leakage. Very foolish not to do so. Future problems. Excellent Ivan. Bravo.
As a youtuber I'm liking you more and more. I own a Medium size Dealer ship. 17 tech's, 4 used car. I hang out in the shop every day.
Would I hire you-- Hell yes.
V6 has no place in that thing. What a job. Well done Ivan!
It is pretty peppy!
Such overcharging is always the alternator. Even when the alternator is to some extend governed by the PCM, the voltage regulation itself is always within the alternator itself. The PCM can only vary the charging voltage in a very limited range (to modulate the charging so it is loading the engine mainly when there is excess of energy so some some fuel) or shut the charging off (when shutting down the engine). So even when the PCM goes completely nuts in the commands towards the alternator, the voltage should not exceed some 15.5V or so (fast recharge mode).
I agree. But....
Some Older cars had an external voltage regulator. My only nitpick might be to mention the charging circuit. I know you mentioned the PCM so you were talking about newer cars but some of us got into snowball fights with Moses. So just something to think about if ever working on s really old car.
@@sumduma55 With those older cars the regulator is completely independent (here it does not matter is it is integrated into the alternator body or in the even older cars detached), so the power train controller can turn upside down, but the regulated voltage won't change at all. Of course the regulator failure (as it was this case) will in most cases start to overcharge the battery. The reason is, the semiconductors (so the excitation coil switch transistor) are more likely to fail into a short (semiconductor material local meltdowns; most often caused by overvoltage spike, overheating or an internal latent fault) than open circuit (blowing up the bond wires, that happens practically only when the short circuit fault "attempts" to short circuit a battery or so, so really fusing those connections). Only the combined starter-alternators (used to hot start the engines in the stop-start systems) have the circuits capable of deexciting the field via the rectifier (short circuiting the AC side, the same way as permanent magnet alternators are regulated in many motocycles), so are able to prevent such severe overcharging even when the main regulating switch stage fails. There it is really necessary, as these alternators are capable of delivering many 100's of A when out of control, that would lead to quite a battery explosion...
It’s so easy to assume the parts are in good working order because you pay someone 100+ dollars for it. It’s crazy how often techs run into this yet we still go back to the cheap part store and take a gamble for the customer every time. Nice semi npr fix Ivan!
Wow. I am sure surprised by that car did not cook by that 30v surge!! The owner got lucky on that one!! Just wow, junk aftermarket parts! Just like Dorman crap lol! Lesson learned! At least the regulator got swapped is good! Lucky man! Great video! 👍 many thumbs up!
Wow Ivan you really get some "goodies" . I agree with you on junk parts. It seems as if quality control is out the window lately I would've thought someone should have "tested" the alternator before putting it in the box to ship out. This is such a pain for the mechanics and the customers. So frustrating Thanks for sharing as it isn't just a local problem, it's a national problem.
Hi Ivan great video.I had an issue with my alternator 2 months ago.my 1994 Honda civic I've had since new,with 540,000 miles the alternator went over voltage. i have a water temp ,voltage,and oil pressure add on gauge set on it. i took the alt apart it was also making whining noise and getting hot. i cracked it open and one of the brushes was worn down to the spring, it wore down the commutator too,hence the noise and heat ,40 bucks later and a trip to the wreckers it's back to running.But at least it LASTED 540 thousand miles.thanks for your vids ,as i did do a cheapo amp clamp test it only put out 50 amps.Not good enough.
Oh my goodness! You're a better man than me! I would've been yelling all sorts of cuss words in Spanish. Lol 🤣😅🤐 That alternator job... wtf? Then the mess of the leaking valve cover down onto the working area. Great improvisation! 👏🏻👍🏻
So... you're a man?! I would have never guessed... :P
@@johnnyblue4799 lol... man as in* huMAN lol. Yeah yeah yeah. 😜🤣🤣
@@CubasAutomotive Phew... you got me worried for a little while!
@@johnnyblue4799 in today's world?? Lol yeah, I completely understand. They, he, shim, it.... 🤦🏻♀️🥴
@@CubasAutomotive Yeah, I don't give a rat's ass... There are two genders, male and female, as God meant it.
Just had a 2011 Sienna van that died driving down the road. Same problem but fried the computer. Great video!
Great video. No boring content at all.
You have to admire that fine ford quality!
I got a rebuilt alternator 6 months ago at Advance and noticed at the counter that the pulley didn't even spin!!! The thing was locked solid. The real bad thing was that the three guys behind the counter didn't seem phased (funny huh) in the least. At least yours moved. Bobby
I admire your attitude in the face of crappy parts. The design engineers of vehicles should be required to take an introductory course in vehicle systems repair on the systems that interface with their component designs. Maybe they would pay a little more attention to after purchase repair procedures. Anyway, great job as usual. Thanks for posting!
It figures all that work and you get a waffled alternator, glad you got it sorted.
Great video Ivan. I seen that same problem on a 1978 Ford pinto. Blown the entire electrical system.
Self lubricating everything. Great video 👍👍
DBALA. There should be a spacer behind the pulley to space it out correctly. All alternators I have taken apart had this. Thanks. Appreciate your great videos.
Hey I have that exact same car same color even. I’ve seen that battery saver parasitic draw error message just like you did but I never fixed it I have no idea what the problem is. The problem I have with this car is the door ajar switches. They are so flaky when the car heats up and passes through about 80° in the sunlight the alarm will sound. After chasing that problem for months I finally just shorted out the offending door switch. It’s great to see you recover from a Cruddy parts disaster . After seeing this I think I may forgo the do it yourself route should I ever have to change the alternator. Great video!
That 12v line must have some hefty zener diode sinking to ground going on! Great job sir.
Many automotive regulators (say a 5V LDO in a module) I've seen have an absolute max rating of 55V, so actually can handle this kind of scenario without issue.
could the oil leak have killed the alternator. It looked a little wet
been tons of videos of techs getting bad parts!!...i always take the crap back...and double check everything...its bad enough working on these junk autos they make these days...all brands all makes all models..and the way you have to tear down half the auto to replace certain parts is common sense ignorant on the Engineers...thanks for the video Ivan i admire your patience
As a new tech a Mazda I was given those alternators to do. The alternators do fail all the time, even on the same vintage ford exploders
Having just done one of these, I can confirm the alternator is a real pisspot to get to. I’ve had such terrible luck with reman parts that I’d rather get an OEM from a salvage yard than a reman.
An oem part from a junkyard is way more reliable than aftermarket. These reman units should be verified to the customer before leaving the premises.
I’ve replaced a few of these alternators over the years, found that it is easier to pull the upper intake and vacuum reservoir, and the alternator will come out through the top without axle removal!
I've personally owned two of these first-gen Escapes with the 3.0l V-6 (and worked on many, many others). and literally laughed out loud when you said, "It's a 3-hr job". I thought to myself, "yeah, 3-hours just to get it out and 3-hours to put it back in". I'm not laughing at your pain...I'm laughing with you. WORST. JOB. EVER.
search youtube for the easy way.
@Aa Bb Easy way...don't buy a Ford.
I got pretty good at them at one point, pays like 3.1 or something.
@@AaBb-zj2ld On the 3.0L Duratec taurus/sable,, you can loosen the subframe bolts and drop the subframe just a touch to get the alt out/in. Takes 20 minutes. Is the escape similar?
Wow that’s insane. I have never seen an alternator put out that much voltage. And yeah crap replacement parts. I had to change 5 sets of plugs wires because the terminals were either missing or poorly connected. They still Maybe my problem.
Great job @Ivan
I have. My son's 1 series BMW was charging at 27 volts and a really weird ripple current that lit the dashup like a Xmas tree. The alternator passed any and all testing and in the end I had to force the mechanic to replace the alternator and we put a new battery in as a precaution because it was red hot.
Awesome diag, you owned it, nice job……
Thanks for the video Ivan. Fortunately, I have only had to change one of those alternators on the V6 Escape. Awful location.
They offer a Alt tester at most supply houses. Needed to test and verify for a similar problem I was having.
Surprised store would take back an electrical part; you must be a super customer of theirs.
What a nightmare! That reminded me of Renault Clio, where you are supposed to take the whole cradle with engine and transmission down and lift the body, to reach the alternator.
Bottom line - can't trust reman parts 😞 I suppose the protection relay short to ground code was a byproduct of overvoltage, as you didn't mention it more. Great job!
Just had a Peugeot 307 doing the same thing , ordered a "new" remanufactured alternator for tomorrow I will be checking it before fitting it, What a pain in the back side there lack of parts and crappy parts seems to be the norm at the minute...
The drive end bearing locates the rotor in the housing.
There is a spacer washer missing between the pulley and the bearing on the replacement alternator. If the rotor was out of position the brushes would not line up with the slip rings.
This fault looks like it was caused by the field coil output transistors being shorted. That would always put maximum current across the alternator field windings (hence the 4 amp parasitic draw) and the voltage to become unregulated.
I'm surprised that the battery didn't explode with the 1300 Watts you were trying to push into it -- in essence the battery was acting as the voltage regulator when the engine RPM was low enough.
Alternator is probably still good as it was delivering current, but the control module is shot. Was the 'replacement' a brand new one or a rebuild?
I’ve done that job twice. What a pain! By the way my oil leak was the oil in the engine mount.
Nice job Ivan! Talk the neighbor into doing the valve covers. I have the same oil leak and would like to see the repair.
Remanned on a Monday morning... Kudos to the guys that made the electronics on the Ford. They took a beating. Curses on the engineers that located the Alt. They deserve a beating ;)
Man the bad parts are at an epidemic level Ivan. Crazy how many defects we see also. Oddly it's usually on the ones that are the biggest pain to do. smh
Keep rowing, I hear banjos!
IVAN, thanks for the great information with this one.
I absolutely hate doing the alternators on those escape. Last time I did one was on a Mazda tribute (Escape ) . The owner cried to me about how she'll lose her job if she doesn't get to work that night. I took in the job around 7pm and finished around 10pm...owner left happy and then I got burned. She never paid me. I lost over $350 . That's what I get for being nice and falling for someone's sob story . I got 🔥
WOW wtf is wrong with people. Don't give the keys back unless you get paid lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I've worked for her plenty of times before and she's usually crying about money . She's always paid me before (over the span of a month) , but this time she ghosted me. Hey if that $350 means I never have to see her or hear her literally cry about her financial problems then so be it. She burned this bridge . Also a lesson learned on my part.
You should check battery acid level after an event like this -- once the voltage per cell goes above about 2.2V, it will start rapidly electrolyse water.
Battery is probably a non serviceable AGM, no ports to access electrolyte, only welded on vents...
Had a similar thing happen to my Honda Accord. Alternator failed and took out the headlights, all the parking lights, the radio, the blower motor controller, and the driver door module. Fun times.
Firstly, really enjoyed the video Ivan, and I'm not a mechanic so excuse my dumb question. Knowing now that increased voltage is caused by the regulator, can you just change the regulator out in the first place or is it a case that you can't actually be sure initially? Other question is if customer asks for refurb rather than OEM should there be a proviso that if you end up having to do it twice because they opted for a cheaper part then the customer pays for the extra time or is this just you being kind? Like I said, not a mechanic so appreciate anyone chiming in here. Great video. Thank you.
They dont sell these regulators separatedly I gues.
I've done a couple alternators on those cars.. and yep, two on the same car..not fun but you're on the right track
Escape has oil Escaping.😁 Evidently Ford built the car around the alternator. Great video Ivan. Stinks that you got burned by junk parts especially in this case where the whole car has to come apart to change the stupid alternator.
I would say there are a few places a person might want to install OEM parts; given the difficulty of installing this alternator I would say this is one of them. I have a shop near my house that does nothing but rebuild alternators, generators, starters, electric motors, etc. They opened when I started driving so, I have yet to buy an alternator, etc. from a parts store. As far as that comment about the Mexicans, Ivan, remember: It was the RUSSIANS that beat us to space. Great video!
Those Ford modules must have some built in surge protection to handle that kind of overvoltage . I was waiting for smoke to emerge from somewhere. It seems strange that a bad engine ground can fry numerous modules on a BMW but double the voltage on a Ford product and its tolerated well in this case and for now anyway. Great diag again watch Rainman Ray half remove a subframe to change a AC compressor seems jobs that where once easy are now time consuming pains in the butt.
That car must have one great system to take 30 volts and nothing burnt up. Always hang on to the old part and be sure to compare it to the new one in every way possible.
That alternator is a pain to change. I did one on the side of the road. Didn’t know what I was getting into until it was too late
Have to say, Ford Escape must have some really robust wiring to hold up to that voltage and not smoke all the components. And the Napa battery held up too! lol.
Only because the battery was drained/flat. If it had overcharged, it could have exploded...
Wow, I had no idea how hard it is to replace the alternator on those first gen Escapes. Thankfully they made it relatively painless in the 2009-2012 models.
Ivan, that was just Ford’s self governing “oil undercoating inspection” process which requires the alternator failure removal and replacement twice just to ensure your Ford self coating oil cavities are functioning…..Rust prevention prioritization and such…..
Now that'll make you hate engineers. Can't believe they buried it.
It was tiiiiight haha
Ivan the Incredible. Keep the diags coming. Happy Happy Valley is warming up!
Back in the 80s Chrysler had a run of defective overcharging alternators. I don’t recall where they were manufactured but acid would boil out of the battery and peel paint off hoods and roofs.
This morning I took a new loaded strut apart because Monroe didn't put in a spacer on the mount and it made noise, no more in stock and no new mounts either, had to disassemble old strut and use the spacer from that , crazy
I'm Hispanic and that Mexican comment cracked me up. BTW your channel rules!
LOL thanks for your support :)
I had a customer with a 2004 Escape, they had if long enough that I had to replace the alternator 2 times. The second time I was able to get it out the top by pulling the upper intake and some wires and hoses. It didn't save a whole lot of time, but I liked working from the top.
1991 I replaced 5 starters on a Buick skylark L151 engine because all the dura “NOT” last starters they were giving me were bad. I finally made them check them in the back before I installed number 6. He tried several as I stood there so I would have installed 8 or 9 bad before I got the good one. I have never bought another Dura NOT last manufactured part since and I do not fix friends cars who buy them. I refuse. They have to buy OEM parts. I will not be the blame for the car breaking down tomorrow or next week. Trash aftermarket parts is what I preach to my friends and persuade quality.
i have done one of those before that is crazy the way its done
Ivan, I don't like remanufactured electrical parts. I always go new, however even those have problems. Last year I needed to replace my alternator, I got a new one from Roc Au, it showed up with a broken B+ battery wire plastic housing terminal. My guess is it got dropped. Just like you I switched it out from the other one. In your case seeing how much time and effort to install them I'd have got a new rebuilt one. But then again I'm not in your shoe's!!
You fixed it.......for now. How many modules will give problems later on?
Another great video seen the same stuff after doing this for 45 years.what sucks techs never get paid for the junk part we have to repair.something in automotive field needs to change.listen parts industry.
Doesn't make any sense the PCM would demand 90 volts or 20 volts etc.
BTW, alternators are rebuildable. bearings, brushes, diodes, regulators are all available for purchase. Problem is, finding them and getting a good brand that uses all copper and extra heavy duty regulators. The cheap junk is standard ratings...X heavy duty apparently means quality. Some of the alternator and starter build shops have all of the quality parts but there are not a lot of those shops around these days.
Myself...I would have used another "new" alternator if there was one in stock. At least the insides would be newer than the existing one but...in looking under the vehicle, the owner is not very concerned about conditions it seems, one large oil leak(s) tells all. So, doing the regulator swap might have been a fair shake.
I worked at advance auto for 5 years and believe me I’ve seen some alternators that had to be sent back even had a few that failed so I became very used to testing them at the store before I sent them out … corporate had to step in just for same type of issues with them mostly remans
I feel you pain brotha! I don’t know if you bought the alternator from a corporate part store or an independent supplier. But if it’s corporate parts chain make a bill for 3-3.5 hours and give it to the commercial manager. They will pay you! It’s not gonna be for the full 3 hours, usually it’s %40-%60 they will pay on your labor time. That’s how the part stores in the Midwest handle it anyways. Everything is junk anymore, I deal with it too often. If it’s an independent parts supplier you will just have to lick you wounds. But seriously, if it’s Napa or Advanced, don’t feel bad billing them, they are the ones that screwed you over. They are all making record profits on no quality control.
My deep admiration to you. I would have spent 30 seconds of r rated rant after putting in the alternator without checking it's mechanical rotation. Keeping the old part to swap out the rectifier was a great idea. I will wait to get my core next time. New parts are not trouble free parts is today's lesson. We all knew this but 3 hours to replace an alternator seems criminal.
Out of the dozens of factory alternators i've cooked and alternators seen fail, i have never seen a voltage regulator go bazerk to the point of sending the voltage that high.
Don't worry about the alternators location Ivan, that's not so bad to remove. Try the removal of a BMW X5s electric water pump.
You should have also checked the brushes on the old alternator and swap them with the one on the remanifactured alternator.
I have a 2004 Ford Ranger, so quite similar. The new alternator that I got would parasitic draw it over night. After a jump start it would be charging 18-20 volts. Swapped the control module (regulator) on the new alternator to the old alternator and that fixed the issue.
So the new alternator had a bad regulator? What was wrong with the old alternator?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics i think the brushes were worn out, since it wouldn't charge the battery.
Ford been putting alternators there since the v6 contour. It also was a bear. The one bolt you reach with a mile of extensions from opposite side of car
Nice video Ivan. If that we me, I would have charged the parts store for the extra labor but that's just me. FYI, most automotive electronics are spec'd to operate at a voltage at least double or as high as triple the 14v from the battery. This is done for a double battery setup. It's far cheaper to design this into a chip than to have extensive inventory for two parts that are basically the same. Way more expensive as well to qualify similar chips for automotive than to over design one for both applications. Silicon is cheap but the photo masks are crazy expensive. Most, if not all, are also reverse battery protected as well. Normally the protection circuit kills the input voltage as the cluster did. It's a latch circuit and throws it to ground which is why there was a 4 amp draw.