PARTS USED ->Aluminum Bleeder Port (Driver): amzn.to/3VJiYOM ->Aluminum Hose Connector (Passenger): amzn.to/3U4iIsK ->Long Nose Pliers: amzn.to/4agzudC
hahah i think i blew my passenger side one... luckily i was like a minute away from my home... something started smoking at the light and when i pulled in my house i saw a big coolant leak... looked like it was coming from where the battery was and a bit of research seems like its the heater hose connector... currently at 112k 2012 g37. Great video/guide btw. Just ordered those parts on amazon!
Unfortunately it can happen at any random time, especially once you're in the 100k mile range. Lucky you were close to home! Good luck with the install, it's pretty straight forward.
@DIYGarageNation just checked now that I have sunlight and yea the connector disintegrated right down the middle lool.. yea super lucky it happened at the end of my 50 mi round trip...
The car is full of coolant, at normal levels in this video. When you remove the connector (both passenger and driver side), you will lose a little bit of fluid. When you are finished, check the reservoir to make sure it is at the correct level. You can add fluid via the reservoir. This all needs to be done with the car cool for safety. If you want to be extra safe, after you finish, bleed the system of any air. There are plenty of videos on how to do this on TH-cam.
@@DIYGarageNation Thank you very much, but when replacing that connector how much coolant come out on a scale of 1-10? I just wanna know what to expect when i disconnect it, car has been cold for 3 days
@@DIYGarageNation Appreciate your quick response man thanks alot for posting this video, mine is leaking when i turn the heat on and been looking for this leak for about 2 weeks now lol!
No basically lift the car from the front and leave it running for 30 min with the radiator cap off and a bleeder funnel connected (heat on blast). That’s a little overkill as well since we don’t really get much air in the system by changing the hose connector. Now if we were to change the top and bottom radiator hoses, then a careful air bleed would be needed.
Some come with 2 depending on the engine model. The passenger is the one that generally fails first so I would change it as soon as possible. Let us know how it goes!
They’re both made of plastic. Usually the one on the passenger side fails first. I would not risk it, just change both, it should only take you an extra 5 minutes MAX.
Yes, that is the safe way to go since they're both made of plastic. Replace both, 1 bleeder port and 1 hose connector. You can always just replace with 2 bleeder ports since they are the same size but it's overkill.
@@michaeltsunoda8084 Do it when the car is cool. A little bit of coolant will leak, not enough to do a full change IMO. However you should at least top it off and do a quick air bleed. There are videos out there showing how to do it on our cars.
PARTS USED
->Aluminum Bleeder Port (Driver): amzn.to/3VJiYOM
->Aluminum Hose Connector (Passenger): amzn.to/3U4iIsK
->Long Nose Pliers: amzn.to/4agzudC
@@DIYGarageNation i was also looking at doorman bleeder port since the screwtop on doorman looks easier
@@michaeltsunoda8084 Totally up to you, matter of preference.
Thanks for the video bro. I will be replacing mine with the aluminum ones this weekend.
Glad it was helpful, good luck with the install!
First video I've been able to find that includes the driver side, thank you. I want to replace both if I'm going to be doing one anyway
Glad it was helpful! It's definitely worth doing both at the same time. Easy DIY, good luck!
hahah i think i blew my passenger side one... luckily i was like a minute away from my home... something started smoking at the light and when i pulled in my house i saw a big coolant leak... looked like it was coming from where the battery was and a bit of research seems like its the heater hose connector... currently at 112k 2012 g37. Great video/guide btw. Just ordered those parts on amazon!
Unfortunately it can happen at any random time, especially once you're in the 100k mile range. Lucky you were close to home! Good luck with the install, it's pretty straight forward.
@DIYGarageNation just checked now that I have sunlight and yea the connector disintegrated right down the middle lool.. yea super lucky it happened at the end of my 50 mi round trip...
@@KpxRagDoll Same, mine split down the middle and broker to pieces when I pulled it out. Metal is the way to go.
Is this video did the car have zero coolant or does not alot of coolant come out from this hose? thanks
Also im referring to the hose on the passenger side where there is just a plastic straight connector holding 2 hoses near the evap/firewall
The car is full of coolant, at normal levels in this video. When you remove the connector (both passenger and driver side), you will lose a little bit of fluid. When you are finished, check the reservoir to make sure it is at the correct level.
You can add fluid via the reservoir.
This all needs to be done with the car cool for safety.
If you want to be extra safe, after you finish, bleed the system of any air. There are plenty of videos on how to do this on TH-cam.
@@DIYGarageNation Thank you very much, but when replacing that connector how much coolant come out on a scale of 1-10? I just wanna know what to expect when i disconnect it, car has been cold for 3 days
@@DIYGarageNation Appreciate your quick response man thanks alot for posting this video, mine is leaking when i turn the heat on and been looking for this leak for about 2 weeks now lol!
Like a 2 (not much), place a microfiber towel under the hose when pulling the connector off and you'll be fine.
Is it very complicated to bleed the system? 3.7l v6
No basically lift the car from the front and leave it running for 30 min with the radiator cap off and a bleeder funnel connected (heat on blast). That’s a little overkill as well since we don’t really get much air in the system by changing the hose connector. Now if we were to change the top and bottom radiator hoses, then a careful air bleed would be needed.
@ thank you, I appreciate it!
Mine only has the passanger side. Did all G37 come with two?
Some come with 2 depending on the engine model. The passenger is the one that generally fails first so I would change it as soon as possible. Let us know how it goes!
is it better to replace both sides or is one fine?
They’re both made of plastic. Usually the one on the passenger side fails first. I would not risk it, just change both, it should only take you an extra 5 minutes MAX.
@@DIYGarageNation and the hoses should be replace too? I see people with Z1 tubings
It was not necessary, unless part of the plastic falls into the hoses, then might as well replace them. Otherwise I would leave them.
@@DIYGarageNation I appreciate the response!
Hey boss, so on vhr we should def change both side factory bleeder ports?? Thank you
Yes, that is the safe way to go since they're both made of plastic. Replace both, 1 bleeder port and 1 hose connector. You can always just replace with 2 bleeder ports since they are the same size but it's overkill.
@@DIYGarageNation got it, and while im swapping those parts will coolant drain and need to add more? Or its better to do coolant change in same time
@@michaeltsunoda8084 Do it when the car is cool. A little bit of coolant will leak, not enough to do a full change IMO. However you should at least top it off and do a quick air bleed. There are videos out there showing how to do it on our cars.
Yip mine snapped in half stranded and shit place to get at to replace bad design nissan
Yeah I was lucky it happened while I was doing an oil change last year. All of a sudden I saw smoke and eventually figured out it was the connector.