Speedpaint 2.0: Avoid Cracking - 10 Primers, 2 Metallics, 500 Space Marine Heads
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video I'll be testing ten primers, including metallics, to find out what works best with Speedpaint 2.0.
This is a follow up to my previous video in which I had issues with the paints over an ink zenithal and a lot of people suggested trying a host of different primers, so here it is.
00:00 Introduction
00:38 Getting Ready
00:51 Why
03:49 Does it work with Liquitex Ink and Matte Medium
05:37 Priming
07:31 Painting Begins
08:35 Initial Outcome
09:56 The Results
15:54 Metallic Primer Results
17:55 Conclusion
The paint order is:
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Would be an idea to change the title (if possible) to include "cracking" as I know folks have been searching for answers on this issue in particular, and this is such a good video on the problem and the right primers to use. Very much likely to buy the set now. Thanks.
Great suggestion. Changed that now so that hopefully more people find it.
>severely underestimating the amount of time it takes to paint 500 of something
as a 40k printer, you have earned a sub
I really appreciate the thoroughness of your testing. That was a lot of work and hugely useful to me! I have been having some inconsistent cracking problems and it’s nice to have this as a reference to better understand the problem.
Solid effort man! I imagine you were sighing a lot while painting the 500 heads, but it was a dilligent piece of work and we need more content on YT as serious as this :)
You helped me solve my frustration with the speedpaints as I also used Liquitex white for zenithal.
what a great idea! thank you for doing such a comprehensive test!
It felt like a great idea until I actually started sticking all those heads down 😂
Wow, this has to be appreciated by pretty much everyone! Great job!
this video is absolute gold. thanks for putting the work into it
Really good job on this video, so comprehensive!
Thanks so much for this video. I really appreciate your methodology to look across both the paints themselves and the undercoating. I haven't used any of the Liquitex inks, and it's great to have runs that include more typical undercoats. Well done!!
Thanks, it made sense to do after the feedback from my last video. I think in future reviews of paints I'll do something similar, just maybe not quite so many heads!
WOW! Amazing job and very informative.
Loves data videos like this. Thank you for the research and testing
awesome work :) i recently got the complete 2.0 set and loving it. I did a squad of orks using a regular hardware store primer ( Rust Oleum flat white) and really happy with how it came out. Thank you for putting out these really helpful vids!
You're welcome! Glad that the sets working out for you!
Great follow up video, thanks! My Liquitex ink has now moved to the bottom drawer and AK primers have been ordered
Nice one, hope they work as well for you as they did for me.
This is EXTREMELY useful data. Thank you so much for the insane amount of tedious work we really appreciate it. I do think it makes sense the pro-acryl primer wasn't as smooth since it's so damn matte it might impede the speedpaint pulling into the recesses and promote pooling. I'll check around locally for some of the AK stuff. Harder to find here but i know some stores have it.
Yeah that makes sense, guess it's a tough balance of being not too matte or glossy.
Got my complete set! Love them! They dry within minutes!
Ty 4 the hard work 😮 have ordered the most wanted set. Coming soon
Glad I could help
TOTALLY USEFULL VIDEO. Thanks.
SCIENCE! Thanks for your willingness to experiment and thanks for Army Painter for being willing to be put to the test. For Speedpaint 1.0 I use Rustoleum and, Krylon matte, Wraithbone, and Vallejo flesh tone as primers. I will look into getting the Speedpaint 2.0 soon. I have some old Grey Knights that I think will look stunning using that silver as a primer!
Silver primer with these over the top came out so nice!
Cracking paint is often due to the surface drying faster than the paint underneath. I would recommend adding a little acrylic retarder to SpeedPaint 2.0 on your palette. I found that slowing down the drying time works wonders. It both allows forr more working time and prevents cracking for the most part. The downside is that you have to wait longer for it to dry.
Cheers for this. I might have to try the AK primer.
what a great video. subbed.
Thank you for this video. Most of my 2.0 paints worked on army painter/citadel primers I use, but the Occultist Cloak more often than not cracked for me.
My ears perked up as soon as you said you had used a gloss primer. I had the same issue using a gloss grey over a matt black. Sounds like if we stay away from gloss things will be OK. Thanks for the video!
This is great. Any chance you could test Badger’s Stynlrez primer?
Interesting research, thanks. I've had my first cracking incident with 2.0. Don't think it was primer-based, since it only happened with one colour. I think it's possible I didn't shake the bottle enough and some of the paint had separated. Very frustrating experience though, but your video gives me hope that it was just a fluke.
This is madness. But I really enjoy it!
Pure madness 😂
Vallejo Blanco Spray Can is the best primer. Tried everything and this one is simply the best.
BTW. Vallejo Mecha Primer Ivory is a nice airbrush alternative for the Wraithbone,
Thanks, I'll have to give it a go.
Very useful. Have you tried Colour Gorge primers?
So first off thank you for sharing this really useful. I've just picked up painting miniatures as a hobby and just waiting for the last lot of orders from amazon and wayland games to come through. I purchased the army painter mega set 3 as well as the army painter mega set 2 speed paints along with their own primers matt Ash grey, matt black and matt white. Gonna be giving the speed paint set a go first would the mentioned primers be OK seeing as they are matt. Thanks
Wow! commitment that would have been hours of work
I wonder if the rattle can version of the grey would work without cracking versus the airbrush?
This is wonderful. Trust me though to have run out of wraith bone and have two cans of grey seer XD
Nice video, does the AK white primer brush on as well as it goes through the airbrush?.. for touch ups if need be. Also your chart doesn't match up with the pics, number 8 shows as Royal Robes yet it's showing a green helmet?
Respect all the time investment and effort put into this!
I used an off brand white spray paint from the homestore and also got cracking with several of the colors, mostly like you described where more of it was pooling after running down the model. Guess I'll need to buy some fancier primer, because I even got the complete set 😅
Now I wonder how it will behave over drybrushed grey & white with a black Vallejo primer underneath, which is how I was planning to use them...
Hate to throw money out the window for Citadel cans, so AK interactive through the airbrush it'll be!
I reckon dry brushing should be fine as it’s not going to be glossy. Shame about the primers you’ve tried and got already!
@@GrayScalpMiniatures I finally got to try the AK interactive micro filler primer and sadly it was a disaster. I'm surprised it went well through the airbrush for you, because for me it was the exact opposite - AK interactive didn't mention on the bottle (or their website, for that matter) that it's not acrylic/water-based but instead apparently some sort of enamel/oil based stuff. It caught me completely by surprise when it wouldn't wash out with water - fortunately I had some spirits in the cupboard and was able to get it cleaned out of my airbrush, or it would have been a disaster. Still, almost an hour cleaning mainly the airbrush but also the paint cup, mixing brush and sink after a mild panic, and my kitchen smelled of turpentine. Cannot recommend :(
I do Zenithal with Liquitex White Ink over black using 2.0 and not had a cracking issue....but I'm not usually coming right back to painting after priming / white ink. I wonder what the difference is. The ones I've done recently like this I use airbrush for each of Vallejo black prime, then grey Vallejo prime, then the white ink.
Thanks for doing a follow up to your SP 2.0 video, I think I said in my previous comment that like you I use AP airbrush primer and Liquitex ink for zenithal underpainting. It's disappointing that the speedpaints crack when used with Army Painter's own primers (even without the ink), surely this combination should have been high on AP's list of testing priorities. I like AP's primers (they cover well, are very cost effective and I can nip into town to buy more if I run out), and if I don't have any Liquitex ink to hand I'd normally reach for my AP matte white primer to either spray or drybrush highlights.
It's ironic that a product like Speedpaint which is meant to save beginners time and effort while providing more experienced painters with a new toolkit gives such variable results due to something as beginner unfriendly as clashes in paint chemistry. New painters shouldn't need to to worry about cracking, reactivation etc, they shouldn't have to search out videos like this or chemistry lessons from Brett at Goobertown Hobbies just to get a starter box painted.
I hope you've been able to feed you findings back to Army Painter, from what I've seen so far of their journey to this v2 of Speedpaints they seem very open to evidence based feedback.
in the meantime I'll go buy a bottle of the AK primer.
That's the most comprehensive testing I've seen yet of AP SP 2.0. I just ordered the complete set (90 paints) and it should be here by end of June. I will take your advise and get the AK interactive white for my zenenthal painting and to avoid potential cracking. I note that you tested AP gray primer and metallic primer but not their white primer.
The only downside that I've heard about, AP SP 2.0 paints is that they're not as bright and vibrant as the new Vallejo Xpress paints. I haven't used Xpress paints yet so was wondering if you had an opinion on this?
Anyway great video and taught me a lot! Thanks!
So I've not used the Vallejo ones and really should pick up a set to try them out. In terms of brightness, I feel like when I put them over the white primer they really popped. I've tried the latest set of contrast paints and don't think that these paints are quite as vibrant, but the Speedpaint 2.0 have more contrast to them than the new contrast paints if that makes sense.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures I held off getting the Vallejo Xpress line because they only have 23 colors. Also the reviews i saw on youtube Xpress paints seem to be very transparent. I think with 90 SP 2.0 paints there won't be much I can't tackle. Hopefully. 🙂
Xpress paints in my XP lean more toward glazing. U rly need 2 layers more often than not. I prefer my SpeedPaints and thin them down if needed. Sadly that means I touch my Vallejo rly rarely. The limited and in some colour quite strange starter range (black and reds...) Is 😢
The AK primer is an enamel or lacquer-based paint, and requires a respirator rated for gases and a good extraction booth, not just a cotton mask rated for particulates. It's a great primer, but please be aware of this. It cannot be cleaned or thinned with water. Use acetone, lacquer thinner, or the manufacturer's cleaner.
I'm guessing the paint holder rack is 3D printed? I need that stl file in my life now! Please.
Here it is: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2895360
Really cool. I'm a new Sub.
Cracking should be caused by drying from the outside to the inside.
Possible factors:
Liquitex ink mix needs to dry longer than 24 hours.
Humidity needs to be higher. (around 60%).
But could also be that it's just the surface the primer leaves that causes the paint to move around more than it should.
Have you ever used Stynylrez White Primer by Badger?
Does anyone know if there is much of a difference between vallejo regular primer and their mecha primer line?
Has anyone tried slapchoping with the speedpaints 2.0? When applied over a matte primer, I wonder if the acrylic dry brush might cause cracking...
did you use matte medium with all of the speed paints tests or just with the liquitex
if you're going to do a zenithol might i suggest pro-acryl bold titanium! I use that when I dont feel like reaching for the inks! lol
Great primer!
Thanks for the tip! I’ll take a look
what miniature is it? model & brand, or STL? 1:44
After watching this video i got some of that AK primer. You forgot to mention to get the AK Xtreme cleaner to clean your airbrush and brushes if you use a brush to touch up as it is a bugger to clean!
Anyone know where I might find this space marine helmet? Great video but I was hoping to do the same for the Vallejo range of contrast paints and this model seems perfect 🙂
Just bought different liquitex inks for zenithal colored priming...awesome 😐
Ah, that could be fun! Maybe a varnish could help between the prime and painting.
Does it matter if you do a slap chop, black primer, grey over shade and white edge highlight?
Provided nothing in that mix is too glossy you should be good to go!
Thanks for the video! Well tested!
Hmm. Most cracking occurs over a prior coat when it has not had enough time to cure. Note I said cured, which is not the same as dried. I do not think 24 hours is sufficient time particularly for mixes that include a medium.
Am I missing something here? The order of painting at least for metallic so far out of order? Take 16 for instance says carmine dragon, yet the 16th isn't red?
Thanks for the in depth review.
I'm still very sceptical about this paints as 1.0 were a total failure and i got the megaset.
But maybe i will get one bottle to heavily test if they work because i think if temperature is a problem for them. In spain where we have between 25° and 40° during summer this could crack everytime
It would be interesting to see how they work out for you. If you end up getting any, let us know.
Yesterday i bought a bottle of SpeedPaint 2.0 using 3rd gen AK primer .
It looks like no cracking. But i have to do moretest
Question what the difference between ak microfiller and normal al primer?
@@lordsnake1988 If its like the primers for car industri , its basicly greenstuff but in gas form , ontop of paint primer , to remove texture/stone damage ie make it flat (have to polish it down afterwards)
If it was the Vallejo Mecha Primer you used that is designed for things like Gundam kits. So lots of flat surfaces. Its designed to stick to the shiny plastic of Gundam and make sure that anything airbrushed over the top goes on smooth and sticks. Probably not the best choice for contrast style paints.
Nope it was their standard airbrush primer I used rather than the mecha primer.
Not trying to cast blame, only giving my own experience...I have NO IDEA what's going on with your Liquitex ink and AP Primer, seeing as that's EXACTLY what I use and I've had no cracks at all. 😂
I airbrush AP Matt Black, go over with AP Matt Grey in an intense zenithal, then airbrush Liquitex Professional Acrylic White mixed 2-1 with AP Matt Varnish (NOT Matt Medium, btw).
I've been using this on Heroquest figures and Citadel minis for weeks now, and they've all turned out great.
I dont understand why you didnt use any of the cheaper primers, or automotive spray primers.. all the cans featured are expensive, comparing any different is on a scale of how much would you like to get ripped off.
Seems like the Army Painter PR team got a hold of this guy.
So. I have to get everything ready for these paints? I prime with airbrush. Enviromentfriendly. I like inks. I like wraithbone. I do not use white primer in a airbrush because its the worst you can do.
On inks and wraithbone, especially bone colors crack. Everytime. Pallid Bone f.e.
The thing is. Im a painter who uses contrast style paints for more things than getting some boring intercessors on the table. I want to blend, i want to glaze, i want to paint a speedpaint over other paints to shift colors. and all of these things are a gambling now, becaue ap cant get it right?
No. I dont accept that. Thats the next broken product. And i bet the fanatics will also have issues. You dont have these issues with vallejo or citadel. Citadel dries faster and dont crack. "Oh just avoid darker areas". Yeah thanks. But the bright-dark contrast is what i want when i use contrast style paints or not? I dont want to wait 2 hours between each layer. Thats not speed. I dont want to use rattle cans or the worst primer on the market: AP.
Sorry. I rather pay double to triple the price for actually working product. They have some nice colors. But no. Simply no.
Please don't talk so fast.....you have good information!
I think those actually looked really cool over the gold tbh. you could tell there was a gold undercoat on all of them. but tinted. very cool effect.