Hey everyone. I've tested a whole range of different primers and also tried mixing the Liquitex with some matte medium. Pretty much all the other primers I tested were fine, the ink mixed with matte medium didn't work. I'll leave the link to the testing here: th-cam.com/video/Oe6cCew4ghg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the review. While we always attempt to create products that we hope EVERY hobbyist and gamer would love, we realize that paints are a tool and every individual has their own preferences. Hopefully, one day these will find a way back into your hobby work flow because generally the early customer feedback and reviews have been quite positive with the new changes that have been requested… A few notes: it's great to see that you tested them through the Airbrush, while many of the colours CAN be used through the airbrush, they aren’t specifically designed for that. They are, as the label states, designed to be a one coat paint solution. Metallics get tricky as you must increase the glossiness of them to give them they shimmer appearance which makes mica look - well - metallic. That combined with the other additives that make Metallic Speedpaint so unique make them trickier to use in an airbrush. We recommend our Warpaints Air Metallics instead if you'd like to airbrush metallic paints. In fact, our entire Warpaints Air range has flown totally under the radar and we believe they are the industry's BEST airbrush-ready paints. Regarding the cracking: paints like Contrast and Speedpaint exist on the razors edge balance of pigment, resin, and solvents. So it’s easy to get some odd results if you’re not using them as intended. It was clear to us that the ink you used was applied heavily during your zenithal process. This increase the plasticity of the coat. Speedpaints are already designed to flow, it’s how they work, so when you decrease the surface tension further, it can cause them to crack. Think of it like applying Speedpaint to an unprimed plastic mini. Contrast: it may be true that some of the contrast has been softened a bit, that’s due to the change in formulation. People wanted a paint that could be used as a base coat and painted over easier, and that’s a slight side effect on some colours. The darker pigments are more dense, and will flow to the bottom (similar to how they flow into the recesses on the miniature). However, it’s minute in most cases and if you’re lacking contrast that can generally be resolved by simply shaking your paints. A few tips to get the best results!
Keep up the good work and constructive comments. Personally I'm very bored of all these reviewers not using the product as intended and jumping into complaining.
The drying time is so fast!!! Does adding speedpaint medium slow it down? I need to start painting faster, I find that I'm accidentally creating a second layer while I'm still painting the first one, which adds these ugly blotches when they overlap. 🥺 Never had the problem with 1.0
I feel like this review is geared towards experts making works of art, not regular folks wanting to get armies painted up quickly. If you prime with a normal matte spray and don't need long working time to do fancy effects like wet blending, the 2.0 paints are fantastic IMO. I've been blown away with the quality I've been able to achieve with minimal time investment. Last night I painted a squad of 7 in an hour and a half (excluding priming and basing). I wouldn't call the minis works of fine art, but they are solidly "tabletop quality". And I think that's the target use case for the product.
I always mix some matte varnish into my Liquitex White, when I prime with it. Hoping this will remedy the issue, since I'm currently waiting on this set to come in. 👍
That's wild! I have been using white Liquitex to zenithal all of my minis for years and have never had this issue. Wonder if the climate/humidity could be impacting that?
@Matt Brown there are a few Pro-Acryl paints with amusing names. For example, my bottle of Blue has the word 'Pants' making it pants blue... whose pants are blue? I don't know. My bottle of orange has the word agent, agent orange... there's soylent green, an eye for an ivory, finally khaki. I believe they're the only bottles with unusual names, the rest have names that describe the colour of the paint in the bottle, which is my preference, but, I do quite like the odd bottle having a unique name.
Been painting minis for decades and while distance, technique, formulation, etc have an effect, I’ve found humidity, then temperature to be two of the most significant factors for causing a bad prime job.
Did a follow up test and found it was linked to two of the primers I use. I kept an eye on my humidity and temperature during the follow up just to see if there was anything there.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures 100% the primers used, one white ink it cracked pretty much 80% of the time, i then switched to tamyia white thinned to act like an ink and there was zero cracking even when i used a gloss Vallejo varnish so it seems like speedpaint 2.0 does not like to work on inks
I picked up the set, only painted a couple minis with it so far.. no cracking issues yet. I prime with Army Painter Black then dry brush grey and white to get my zenithal effects.. no idea if that affects the cracking thing at all tho.
Monument Hobbies white primer has replaced Liquitex ink for me, I now do a three shade prime: black, grey, white. It's well worth a try, not exactly cheap in the U. K. but it works really well and is easy to use.
I suspect the crazing has more to do with paint thickness than primer. This is not unique to Speedpaint; it's fairly common for thickly-applied acrylics to crack. Basically, the topmost layer forms a skin while the wet paint underneath is still drying. The layer of paint underneath pulls on that skin as it dries, leading to cracking. Despite how it looks, this is a paint and not a wash and needs to be applied accordingly (or so it seems). How am I personally going to deal with it? By applying multiple coats and letting them dry completely in between, making sure I wick away any pooled paint with a clean brush as I work.
Same issue with bits in nuclear sunrise. Was going to ask for a replacement when i saw it. I bet the whole batch has an issue. I notice a lot of the colours esp the "pale" ones are pretty bad. Too watery and weak. I would say half of the paints are real slam dunks though. So worth the price overall
Liquitex White Ink is not a primer. I've had Liquitex White ink peel up from brushing on contrast paints or even regular acrylics before over it. Inks can be very delicate and I find Liquitex White to be one of the touchiest. Just in general, if you're going to use Liquitex White Ink I'd seal it before going over it with anything else. Not saying that is the only cause of cracking. But just general advice. I've run into a lot of issues with Liquitex White Ink zenithal and trying to go over it.
I've had the same experience with liquitex white. It gives an amazingly smooth zenithal but I've switched to Monument white primer instead just to save me a step. Not as smooth but good enough. For hero or centerpiece minis I still go all out with the liquitex but no way I'm doing it for 70 guardsmen.
I’ve been holding off on buying Speedpaint 2.0 to see if there were any glaring issues. You aren’t the first TH-camr that’s experienced the paint cracking problem. I bought some Vallejo Xpress Colors and I’ve really enjoyed working with them in a slapchop style on my Ork Kommandos. However, they currently have a very small color range. Army Painter is an awesome company for listening to their customers, so I’d love to give them my business, but I don’t want to deal with cracking finishes. I enjoyed your candid review, sir!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. They do a really good job of listening to the community so hopefully if this is widespread then it gets actioned. Might just be my set, or only certain primers/inks etc, but still a frustrating issue.
I also used Vallejo Xpress Colors on my Ork Kommandos. Gave them a purple uniform becuse extra sneaky but i found the Vallejo Xpress Colors reactivated when i varnished them with Vallejo mat varnish. The white primer showed on some spots. Redid them and put on the varnish "gently". I hope they put out some more colors soon.
@@RundOnline The Ork Skin for Xpress Colors is my favorite color for the Boyz! It’s just spot on, IMO. Sad to hear about the varnish reactivation; I haven’t gotten to that point in my painting yet. Did you use an airbrush or paint on the varnish?
@@j.taylor7361 I painted the varnish on with a brush. But you made me remember I had an airbrush somewhere stowed away in some shed so I took it out, set it up and tried that. Gotta say, using an airbrush also makes it reactivate but since I'm not using a brush the xpress stays on nice. I'll be using it for priming and varnishing for now.
You’re saying using shades from GW removes the primer on Galeforce9 preprimed tanks? That is a timely information! I was just about to start painting my first. Thanks a lot for the heads-up. 👍
My buddies just got me a sweet airbrush, I have the army painters paints but I think I will have to use my friend's paint based on your experience. Can't wait to try it out when I have some free time! Thanks for sharing my minis, they look sweeeeeeeet!
Very good thorough review but a non recommendation arguably seems a little harsh given most people will not prime with inks. Were you using a hairdryer to speed drying? It defo needs more testing to confirm if the issue repeats with regular priming. great video
@@WorldWide3133 I agree with Carl Stanford...I also prime with ink, but I also mix mine with Matte Varnish to prevent issues just like this, with other washes. This guy hasn't responded as to whether he mixes his with varnish, or just trusts the ink to hold up to whatever watery layers he adds later. The ink thing is relatively uncommon, especially with newer painters; and of those who do, many don't necessarily mix with a varnish as they probably should to strengthen the ink layer.
The cracking is a pain.... sometimes i apply it over some paint and it cracks its hard to predict... its happens constantly over gloss or metallics but then sometimes it happens over general acrylics too!
I had the same problem with Nuclear Sunrise having little bits of crud in it. Very strange paint, that one. Some of these from the set have dried so fast on me they gunk my brush up after just light use - some brush soap fixed it with zero issues, so not exactly catastrophic, but still pretty annoying. Have not had this cracking issue at all. Overall, 2.0 seems generally good with a handful of slam dunks and a handful of misses.
Very useful indeed. Im hoping that its either the primer or the varnish that has caused the cracking. As silly as it may sound Im very keen to buy some of these. I have the whole Vallejo Xpress color range and I have tell you that GW's range is superior to it. Im hoping that despite the odd glitch the Army Painter range can offer some competition. If anything they deserve credit for going back and addressing the problem (if it really was a problem that is). I could not disagree with you more regarding the naming scheme - who hasn't found a neam like "Marsupial ass fur brownie black yellow" or "Jalampadoola reddie blue" to not be exactly the right colour descripters we need. I urge paint companies to hire a group of penlentoligists to name new colours for clarity sakes if nothing else.
That gave me a good laugh 😂 Doesn't sound silly at all, still worth while picking up a few of the colours you like the look of and seeing how they work for you and your setup. The original speedpaints are still some of my favorites, so there's a lot t chose from.
Hmmm interesting. I have the set and have used it quite alot so far and never had any of the colors crack. I agree they dry too fast tho and Nuclear Sunrise sucks lol. Besides that i really like this set, but still think this was a really good review ^^
Interesting. Green Stuff dipping inks crack too, but not in such a consistent way lol Sometimes there isn't a single crack, sometimes (especially the one time I used them through an airbrush) they cracked horribly.
Yeah when I tried the dipping inks I found the same. Sometimes they cracked, sometimes they didn't. I found it was mostly when I was too heavy handed with them and applied too much.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures as someone who uses dipping inks, it is definitely from too much moisture. The cracks form if some of the moisture gets underneath the curing finish. It happened a few times to me early on, but hasn’t happened in a long time now.
I've been using SpeedPaints 2.0 for a few weeks now. I've seen zero cracking. I wonder if it has to do with your priming or using a heat gun to speed drying?
Just done a follow up to this and it was definitely the primer. The ink didn't work even when I mixed it with matte medium, and the gray airbrush primer also caused some issues, but far less severe. 8 other primers all worked fine.
I just got this set, but I prime with inks, so now I'm paranoid. 😂 I use a mixture of ink, medium and matte varnish for my white priming... you don't mention mixing with anything. Maybe I'm safe? 😬
I think that the cracking comes with using additional medium. The ONLY time that I have had the cracking effect is when I cut a lot of the paint w/ 1:1 medium.
I was wondering if adding the medium might reduce the cracking. I've only used a few paints from the set so far as I'm only using them if its a colour I don't have in my 1.0 set. I only noticed it on the saddle brown so far which I really don't like as it seems too thick and I find it gets messy really quickly.
Yep, I've never had an issue with it. The only paints that I've found it can have a negative effect on is airbrush paint if you don't leave it long enough to dry, otherwise it's always been fine for me.
Thanks for the review, I was going to buy the Full set because of the huge range. I'll hold off, for now. 👍I think a follow update would be good, a lot of people are using Slap Chop these days, primers only Zenithal, varnish mix, or after Ink etc
I wonder if their could be "bad batches" in the production? 🤔 original og and the new 2.0. Iv seen terrific results and awful strange results on both types. Iv seen the original not reactivate, although a very low number compared to those who have had it reactivate. Same with 2.0 now, seen it hold up really well. Dry time, no bleed offs of any kind but again, now we see cracking and such. Surface tension problems? Who knows🤷🏻♂️ i love products that deliver a solid trait, that way its easy to find the groove with work with vs working around. Terrific review and thank you for shareing ur results👍🏻
Thanks so much for highlighting the issue with cracking when applied over Liquitex ink, that's normally what I use for primer highlighting too. I haven't tried these 2.0 speedpaints yet so I'll proceed with caution if I get hold of any.
For the point of the flakes in nuclear sunrise I've hade the same issue and reached out to the army painter support. They said that this is a environmental problem probably during transport. They offered me a refund for the one bottle as they currently aren't able to replace it.
Hmmm very interesting. I don’t have the v2 paints yet but I didn’t have a problem with the v1 set and it’ll be a while before the v1s are used up so I’ll probably wait a bit longer.
The only time I've thinned them is with speedpaint medium to get it closer to a glaze consistency. What primer are you using? I'd be interested in trying a bunch of different ones and seeing what works best for these.
@Gray Scalp Miniatures I'm using Tamiya black primer with a light grey as a zenithal they dry brush with Reaper Pure White. I've used both Speed Paint Medium and Reaper Flow Improver to thin. Usually 2/1 paint/thinner. But I'm also painting smaller scales which may have something to do with it as well (I'm painting Warlord Epic ACW) or the speed paint may just be sticking better to the Tamiya primer...
Well that is a shame. Great video. Hope you dive further into the metallics as those are the ones I'm excited for. My OG citadel contrast is going strong.
Yeah the metallics were the things I was looking forward to the most. I love having them ready bottled and easy to use, but I need to play around with them more.
I'm fine with my Strynylrez as a basecoat, but I'm actually looking out for cracking medium for ice bases and desert -- except that I don't like the results of most cracking mediums. :P If you could do a tutorial sometime that recommends a brush-on primer and Speedpaint combination (or a more guaranteed way to crack), I'd appreciate it! Thanks for the review!
I just bought a set a few days ago and have the same issue with the Nuclear Sunrise. Ruddy Fur also has some chunks in it for me. I reached out to Army Painter as this seems defective to me.
I get so much crap for using Citadel paints...but I just haven't found a better paint and I have literally tried them all... so I guess I'll keep getting called a GW shill. Gret Vid BTW.
I love using both. Contrast paints have their uses, but I've always preferred Army Painter speedpaints just a touch more. I think whatever brand you use, you'll get some people calling you a shill for it. My thoughts are use what you like the best, that works best for your setup, and you're golden!
6:00 - Did you see reactivation with oil washes on Speedpaint 1.0? I thought it only happened with water and acrylic paints. I'd always assumed the reason I never saw reactivation on mine was because I always followed up the speedpaint layer with an oil wash, and the layer of oil was protecting the speedpaints.
Thank you so much , this was really helpful. I really liked the original speedpaints as well , but was wondering if maybe different primers would yield different results? maybe a test for another video? :P got a subscribe from me as well.
And yet not a single crack on any of the space marine heads you did for the color examples... That must come down to the way the ones that cracked were primed, either the base primer or the ink that was used. Never really been sure why people use a fragile ink for the zenithal "prime", when it's NOT a primer and I'm pretty sure not meant to be painted over with a brush. I know a lot of people do, but personally I use actual primers for the zenithal. Inks are very very thin and very very fragile.
I do think it's massively affected by what primer is used. It was pretty consistent on the ink, regardless of how long it was left to cure, but it did also happen with my models primed with army painter grey, with army painter white from above, so it's not just the inks. Next I need to try a whole bunch of primers and see what works best for them.
Fingers crossed it's only certain colours, or I got a bad batch. Definitely worth experimenting with certain colours you like the look of and go from there.
Did you try adding an acrylic retarder so the Speedpaint would dry more slowly? If the speed of drying may be causing cracks because it was drying too fast, then maybe slow it down a bit. Just make it Speedishpaint.
Let me know what primers you'd like to see tested and what you've been using with good results. As mentioned, it's a pretty consistent issue when I use my liquitex inks, but not an issue on the original speedpaints. The other primer I had an issue with is Army Painters grey and white air primer. The Army painter white from a rattle can was perfectly fine and I had 0 issues with cracking on that, and I had 0 issues with GW rattle can primer. I'll buy up a bunch of different primers and do a test with those and see what works, so let me know in the replies to what you'd like me to test.
Monument Hobbies Prime line would be lovely to see! I actually cancelled an order of Speed Paint 2.0 from your review cause I don't have time to mess around with cracking. You may have saved me some money.That said, if the Monument Prime line works fine with them I might give it a go. I even started doing my zenithals with Monument's white primer because I found with liquitex I basically had to do a varnish step because I would always re-activate it or take some off if I did a drybrush pass. The liquitex definitely makes a smoother finish but I decided to sacrifice some quality for convenience. Only real downside is white primer I need to blast my airbursh up to like 40 or 45 PSI for it to really atomize well. One final thing I'd love to see is just the speed paint over a metallic base coat (whatever light-ish metallics you have - eg Runefang, AP metalics, Vallejo Metal Colours) because one of my favourite uses of them was to make cool coloured metals in the past. Eg, Cloudburst Blue would make a very nice cobalt. Sand Golem would make a passable gold. Thank you very much for your content, it's extremely valuable information to me.
FYI the official Army painter channel commented on The Painting Phase's video about cracking The Army Painter "Generally speaking, when paint is pooled too much and then forced to dry too quick, the resin on the outside cures before the resin mixed inside - then you get crazing (cracking). Easily remedied by wicking away, before heating. Or, letting it dry at a natural pace (which is a bit faster now with 2.0)." Not sure if the is BS damage control 🤣
@@breakinmedia I'm personally okay with paints being difficult to use or having conditions under which they can be used improperly - but I need some real parameters of what constitutes misuse. For these speed paints we need to know what is "too much pooling" exactly? Is there a litmus test to determine when I should wick away the excess and when it's desired? What is a "natural place" to dry? I paint in my house at a desk or table like probably 99.99% of users who likely don't have a dedicated climate controlled paint studio - what should the temperature and humidity be? Not that I can truly control those precisely but it would be good to know. I typically do batch painting so I almost never use a hair dryer. I really like AP as a company. I believe in what they stand for and I believe they are truly trying to make great products for everyone. That said, my belief in your mission isn't going to get me to buy something not suited for my needs. I would personally rather pay more for something that works reliably.
I just purchased the new set. And I have to say I agree with you on all on your points. Thanks for the detail and level of information put into your video. Definitely a sub from me!
The helmets were a good base for the comparison. I’ve seen other channels use some really useless things to compare the paints which give no indication how they’d look on a typical model. The reactivation being replaced lack of contrast makes these pretty useless imo. The 1.0 vs 2.0 comparison really sold that. They basically look like standard thinned paints now.
That's what made me go with the helmets. I figured I could paint a base or something, but the helmets are going to be vaguely similar to actual things I'll want to paint.
Wait, it is a deal breaker b/c you use Liquitex white ink for your zenithal highlights from your airbrush; kind of a niche complaint, and IMHO, not very insightful vis-a-vis a review. The 'cracking' problem is interesting, but you are the first and only reviewer to mentions this. I think more experimentation is needed, as does acquiring some AP Speed Paints from a different distributor.
@@ChaplainAppollus Stahly mentioned that reactivation was greatly improved, and rated the Speedpaint 2.0 an "A Tier" product. Stop with the catastrophizing to make your AP hating sound more rational.😂
Don't worry, it's not a common issue at all. This video is literally the only instance I've seen where this issue is being reported. I've also never personally had any issues with cracking. That leads me to believe the only reason it's cracking for him is because of something in his personal painting process, not because there's a problem with the paints themselves.
@@ChaplainAppollus Why try to imply that anyone who has anything good to say about these paints isn't being honest? I watch a wide variety of reviewers and the overwhelming majority have had nothing but good things to say about these paints. Also, I've used these paints too and haven't had any issue with them, especially when it comes to cracking. So again, the logical conclusion is that the problem is with his painting process, not the paints.
@@Commodore22345 why are you trying to say that this isn’t an issue when I have just told you that two other reviewers have reported the exact same issue? Are you saying that those reviewers aren’t being honest? If three reviewers are experiencing the same issue it would suggest that the problem is with the product rather than any process… And yes I would question a lot of other reviewers such as watch it paint it, goobertown and Dana howls as they “helped” produce this new range meaning that ap are giving them a cut of the profits so they aren’t going to give out a objective review are they? Also it is no secret that ap are reached out to a huge amount of TH-camrs this time for free stuff to try and limit the negative feedback that they experienced with the original product. The long and short of it is they released a product that had issues which they scrapped after a couple of months only to be able to sell you the same paints over again. Whether you agree or not this new product has issues as well. If you like the paints then cool, good for you. But don’t lie and gaslight other reviewers that don’t have the same opinion as you. AP fanboys are almost like a cult now, if any other company had done the same as ap then they would have been torn to shreds.
@@ChaplainAppollus No I'm not saying those reviewers are being dishonest. I'm saying they haven't considered all the possibilities as to why the paint behaves the way it does for them. For example, other commenters have pointed out that using inks to prime models has been known to cause cracking in a wide variety of paints from a wide variety of companies. Guess what this reviewer primes his models with? Inks. I don't know about those other reviewers you mentioned though. But if they use inks as well, then that would seem to be the culprit, not the paints themselves. And no, three reviewers having issues does not indicate that there is a problem when there are many more reviewers and customers (so people that have no reason to be dishonest) that have no issue with the paints at all. As for the rest of your nonsensical rant accusing everyone who likes these paints of being paid shills: It seems like you have some weird axe to grind with Army Painter to the point you are inventing these grandiose conspiracy theories in an attempt to silence any positive opinions of a line of paints you clearly don't like.
You're welcome. They're worth keeping an eye on though because hopefully the issue gets ironed out, and it might not be applicable to you and the way you prime your models. However, it's always good to know so that you don't get caught out.
It happens with most whites and with every ink. The ink dries in a very thin layer. The extremely fast drying of the sp 2.0 literally crumbles the ink layer and destroys it. Army Painter was so horny to get into the "contrast game" money, that they rushed out another flawed product, which is even worse than the first one. They want to fulfill the "speed" expectation so hard, they forget to test it right. I bet they only tested theyre own, very thick primer and maybe some slapchop. And they never tested airbrush, which dont uses any solvent in the primer like a rattlecan. If you ask them they ignore and ban you from their channel, because they dont want another disaster. The honest answer ive got was "Speedpaints are made for people who want to play fast". But even when this is trough, its not fun if you prime with a white primer and the paint crackles. And they literally say "We dont want to sell these to people who paint on a more advanced level. Only on noobs in the hobby" Other Problems with the rapid drying time: -you have to use it on a wet palette or you waste more paint than you use - like every contrast it ruins your sponge in the palette XD - you literally cant blend it. - the pigmentation is not as good as sp 1.0 or contrast I cant recommend this to anyone. The sp 1.0 had its problems, but you can use this or work around. I cant use crackling paint except for basing XD So i use Contrast and Xpress. Xpress has not that brightness, but its other specs are nice. They dont separate, they have a good drying time, you can mix, thin, blend them easily. Only the small palette and missing of "bright AF" Colors are a thing. But i see that vallejo knows what theyre doin. They test the colors before they rush them out. So. Another Army Painter Product where you can say "If you buy cheap, you buy twice". Except the fact Xpress colors are cheaper XD Because Army Painter had the guts to increase the Prize to send a big FU to the people who bought SP 1.0
@@GrayScalpMiniatures there will be 2.0 versions of the older colours released by the end of this month. In a huge package as well as in single bottles. But the new Grim Black in your set for example is already the updated version of the older Grim Black. :) Pro tip: better don't use the AP Ork Skin colour, since it is awful. Ork Skin by Vallejo is way better. But some of the other greens in the AP Speedpaint range (sometimes thinned) make wonderful skin colours for Orks. They work even better over a proper Slapchop underpainting.
Seems to me that your main issue is that you're not trying out other colours for base coats and instead sticking with just shades. Some colours don't look good with a grey or black base as it will change the colour of the paints used, like yellows will turn a dark green colour. But if you used something closer to a light brown, like a sepia, you'll get the right colour for the shadows.
There's just been way too many issues reported with this range for me to consider buying into it. GW's contrast paints do everything I need and I've encountered no problems with them through the airbrush, highlighted over etc.
If you read through the rest of these comments, there are a few who have issues and plenty who haven't had any. It's worth remembering that every line has good and bad reviews; and that sometimes, every lot of any paint brand can have a few bad batches, and newer products sometimes just have a period of adjustment to work through.
I think you are. If you didn’t experience it, you were probably using it as a one coat. If you got the paint wet it would come right off. One model I forgot I did one color in speedpaint, and when I applied a wash to the model, the speedpaint color got wet again and it’s color mixed around all over the model, ruining it.
Soo the original og speed paint formula is no longer in production?? Hell, as much r&d and feedback they did, should of just offered two kinds in a newer mega sized set. Regular and 2.0 🤷🏻♂️
They should’ve just left the formula the same. Reactivating wasn’t a big deal at all people just overreacted to that but it really wasn’t a problem in practice. Now they may have created a worse product for no good reason
I loved the reactivation on the original set. I know some people hated it, but I always found it was easy to work with and made highlighting a really easy thing to do. I get that's not what everyone wants though.
Yep I’m very sad the way it got handled the original set should have said on the product reactivation can occur, it’s fair people who didn’t want that would be annoyed but all the money the spent over hauling the product could have been used to crest some videos and booklets showing how to use reactivation to advantage
@@douglasmurdoch7247 I painted many models to what I feel is a high standard without a single issue and didn’t bother varnishing between. Not wrong, try it
maybe the liquitex prime is conflicting with speed paint? seems unfair to judge a product for model painting based on how it goes on something meant to be used with pen and paper
I get where you're coming from, but as I said, it also happened with another prime, and it didn't happen with the original speedpaints. Also, I had plenty of positive things to say about them, but my conclusion is just for people to hold fire unless of course they're using a primer they know gets great results.
You should explain to all the pro mini painters that are using liquitex inks and teaching how to use them that they're doing it wrong. That's about as fair.
Thanks for the review... This just confirms these companies are more interested in cranking out product and using their loyal fans as test subjects instead of extensively testing them in company before they hit the streets. NO THANKS. -_- I also suspect AP is a shell company of GW just to offer competition with itself nobody.
This is a misleading review. No other reviews have seen cracks and its clearly due the unndercoat you are choosing to use. Also, citadel is double the price and has worse application when drying in most interests. Feels like an odd hit piece.
@@ChaplainAppollus Stahly mentioned that reactivation was greatly improved, and rated the Speedpaint 2.0 an "A Tier" product. Stop with the catastrophizing to make your AP hating sound more rational.😂
@@VanDavis he said greatly improved but not resolved. Just pointing out that other reviews have found problems when this comment says no other reviews have seen cracks which isn’t true.
@@ChaplainAppollus yeah, "just pointing it out," in a way that makes it sound like it's a lot worse than one other reviewer...and bringing in Stahly without explicitly stating what he said, or how he actually still really likes Speedpaint 2.0. Totally impartial and not misleading at all. 👍
I had the same problem with tiny chunks in AP airbrush paints. They have an issue with QC somewhere. The fast drying you're reporting makes SP 2.0 not an attractive product for me. I love SP 1.0. I liked the longer drying time. Reactivation was something I could use. I liked 1.0 because they did something other products of their type didn't do. SP 2.0 are now just a cheaper, but inferior, choice to the competition. That's unfortunate.
@Van Davis "Bad batches" are indicative of a problem in QA/QC, as I said. It happens, but it needs to be addressed. But If it's happening across product lines, then there's a systemic problem. Not the biggest deal in brush on paints and it would stop me from buying SP 2.0 if they had any of the features that I liked from the first version. But it clogs my airbrush and that's a problem.
@@briarsandbantams multiple bad batches are a QC "problem." SOME issues are a normal part of any production business. As far as "needing to deal with it"...did you write them about your AirPaint issue? I'm willing to bet they offered a replacement. Anything else you might have problems with, I don't know what you expect.
I wonder why the majority of other reviewers have not had the same experience? I’ve pretty much watched every review out there of speed paint in order to make up my mind and no one has ever witnessed this other than you? Perhaps its your primer? A bad batch?
The painting phase had the cracking issue. Then stahly had issues. Maybe the majority of the other reviewers haven’t commented on this because ap employed a lot of “influencers” like goobertown, Dana howl and watch it paint it to “design” the paints. They are not going to really give a fully objective review on a product they are on the payroll of.
@@ChaplainAppollus Stahlys review mentioned no such thing. He even put speedpaint 2.0 on his "A" tier. Not sure what you're talking about. Conspiracy theories are silly because plenty of other people have their hands on this paint by now.
@@ChaplainAppollus Reactivation is a very different issue than "cracking" which this reviewer (and essentially only him) found. Also, Stahly and others have mentioned reactivation is essentially gone after a few mins. Just look at the test videos. If you're going to talk about conspiracy theories, please know what issue you're even talking about
@@AntiKaratekid does the painting phase not count as a reviewer then? Not sure how it is a conspiracy theory when people without any skin in the game have proved it.
Never had a good experience with any AP stuff other than dark and strong tone. Drybrush set had 2 of 3 brushes lose bristles after the first cleaning, and once they started to come out, they all did shortly after. In the bin they went. Also tried some of their regular paints and they were not great. They were meh, nothing worth a spot on my shelf. With the SpeedPaint 1.0 reactivation debacle and my past history with AP products, these would never be on my radar. To find out they don't work with inks, I dodged another bullet.
Hey everyone. I've tested a whole range of different primers and also tried mixing the Liquitex with some matte medium. Pretty much all the other primers I tested were fine, the ink mixed with matte medium didn't work. I'll leave the link to the testing here: th-cam.com/video/Oe6cCew4ghg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the review. While we always attempt to create products that we hope EVERY hobbyist and gamer would love, we realize that paints are a tool and every individual has their own preferences. Hopefully, one day these will find a way back into your hobby work flow because generally the early customer feedback and reviews have been quite positive with the new changes that have been requested…
A few notes: it's great to see that you tested them through the Airbrush, while many of the colours CAN be used through the airbrush, they aren’t specifically designed for that. They are, as the label states, designed to be a one coat paint solution. Metallics get tricky as you must increase the glossiness of them to give them they shimmer appearance which makes mica look - well - metallic. That combined with the other additives that make Metallic Speedpaint so unique make them trickier to use in an airbrush. We recommend our Warpaints Air Metallics instead if you'd like to airbrush metallic paints. In fact, our entire Warpaints Air range has flown totally under the radar and we believe they are the industry's BEST airbrush-ready paints.
Regarding the cracking: paints like Contrast and Speedpaint exist on the razors edge balance of pigment, resin, and solvents. So it’s easy to get some odd results if you’re not using them as intended. It was clear to us that the ink you used was applied heavily during your zenithal process. This increase the plasticity of the coat. Speedpaints are already designed to flow, it’s how they work, so when you decrease the surface tension further, it can cause them to crack. Think of it like applying Speedpaint to an unprimed plastic mini.
Contrast: it may be true that some of the contrast has been softened a bit, that’s due to the change in formulation. People wanted a paint that could be used as a base coat and painted over easier, and that’s a slight side effect on some colours. The darker pigments are more dense, and will flow to the bottom (similar to how they flow into the recesses on the miniature). However, it’s minute in most cases and if you’re lacking contrast that can generally be resolved by simply shaking your paints.
A few tips to get the best results!
These tips new to be included in a speed paint pamphlet that comes with each box.
Keep up the good work and constructive comments. Personally I'm very bored of all these reviewers not using the product as intended and jumping into complaining.
@@tommcdonald7143 great feedback and I will pass this along to our graphic/print team.
The drying time is so fast!!! Does adding speedpaint medium slow it down? I need to start painting faster, I find that I'm accidentally creating a second layer while I'm still painting the first one, which adds these ugly blotches when they overlap. 🥺 Never had the problem with 1.0
@@zakstoiber1496 yes, due to the retarder used in the Medium is can aid the workability of the paints to make blending smoother and easier.
I feel like this review is geared towards experts making works of art, not regular folks wanting to get armies painted up quickly. If you prime with a normal matte spray and don't need long working time to do fancy effects like wet blending, the 2.0 paints are fantastic IMO. I've been blown away with the quality I've been able to achieve with minimal time investment. Last night I painted a squad of 7 in an hour and a half (excluding priming and basing). I wouldn't call the minis works of fine art, but they are solidly "tabletop quality". And I think that's the target use case for the product.
I highly recommend speedpaint 2.0, just painted a few armies with it no issues
If you are using the white ink, you’ll need to seal it with some clear varnish. I get cracks with most paints if I don’t seal the white ink.
I always mix some matte varnish into my Liquitex White, when I prime with it. Hoping this will remedy the issue, since I'm currently waiting on this set to come in. 👍
That's wild! I have been using white Liquitex to zenithal all of my minis for years and have never had this issue. Wonder if the climate/humidity could be impacting that?
Are you using Liquitex white ink? I've never had that issue, but I've heard horror stories about people using Daler Rowney for zenithals.
I use Liquitex. I have to seal it or it cracks. I believe humidity does play a part in this.
That's wild! I'm so glad I don't have to seal mine. It's generally fairly humid where I am, so I could see how that could be impacting it.
Silly paint names are because of Intellectual Property law. You can't trademark 'bright green' as it is too generic.
Makes so much sense. Damn trademark law is so frustrating sometimes.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures The new bottles coming in the Complete and newer sets have the new realistic naming convention on them too
Do you need to trademarked colors? Pro Acryl has great names. Titanium White. Bright Neutral Grey. Yellow Green. It’s spoiled me for all other brands.
@Matt Brown there are a few Pro-Acryl paints with amusing names. For example, my bottle of Blue has the word 'Pants' making it pants blue... whose pants are blue? I don't know. My bottle of orange has the word agent, agent orange... there's soylent green, an eye for an ivory, finally khaki. I believe they're the only bottles with unusual names, the rest have names that describe the colour of the paint in the bottle, which is my preference, but, I do quite like the odd bottle having a unique name.
None of our colours are trademarked. It’s just fun to play in the science fiction and fantasy worlds we live in. :)
Just painted up a very large 3d printed figure with 2.0 speedpaints that was zenithal primed with vallejo surface primers, no cracking.
Good to know. It's handy hearing about peoples experiences using different primers so I can better understand what works best.
I had the cracking issue as well. Pretty much the same thing you said here. But after using my vortex mixer, it seems to be ok now.
Been painting minis for decades and while distance, technique, formulation, etc have an effect, I’ve found humidity, then temperature to be two of the most significant factors for causing a bad prime job.
Did a follow up test and found it was linked to two of the primers I use. I kept an eye on my humidity and temperature during the follow up just to see if there was anything there.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures 100% the primers used, one white ink it cracked pretty much 80% of the time, i then switched to tamyia white thinned to act like an ink and there was zero cracking even when i used a gloss Vallejo varnish so it seems like speedpaint 2.0 does not like to work on inks
I am using Vallejo brush primer and AP primer, AP paint for zenithal drybrushing and no cracking at all.
Thanks for adding that. Maybe I'll have to try out a range of primers and see what works best.
Interesting that your the first one I’ve seen addressing the dry cracking.
I picked up the set, only painted a couple minis with it so far.. no cracking issues yet. I prime with Army Painter Black then dry brush grey and white to get my zenithal effects.. no idea if that affects the cracking thing at all tho.
Monument Hobbies white primer has replaced Liquitex ink for me, I now do a three shade prime: black, grey, white. It's well worth a try, not exactly cheap in the U.
K. but it works really well and is easy to use.
I suspect the crazing has more to do with paint thickness than primer. This is not unique to Speedpaint; it's fairly common for thickly-applied acrylics to crack. Basically, the topmost layer forms a skin while the wet paint underneath is still drying. The layer of paint underneath pulls on that skin as it dries, leading to cracking. Despite how it looks, this is a paint and not a wash and needs to be applied accordingly (or so it seems).
How am I personally going to deal with it? By applying multiple coats and letting them dry completely in between, making sure I wick away any pooled paint with a clean brush as I work.
Same issue with bits in nuclear sunrise. Was going to ask for a replacement when i saw it. I bet the whole batch has an issue.
I notice a lot of the colours esp the "pale" ones are pretty bad. Too watery and weak.
I would say half of the paints are real slam dunks though. So worth the price overall
Liquitex White Ink is not a primer. I've had Liquitex White ink peel up from brushing on contrast paints or even regular acrylics before over it. Inks can be very delicate and I find Liquitex White to be one of the touchiest. Just in general, if you're going to use Liquitex White Ink I'd seal it before going over it with anything else.
Not saying that is the only cause of cracking. But just general advice. I've run into a lot of issues with Liquitex White Ink zenithal and trying to go over it.
I've had the same experience with liquitex white. It gives an amazingly smooth zenithal but I've switched to Monument white primer instead just to save me a step. Not as smooth but good enough.
For hero or centerpiece minis I still go all out with the liquitex but no way I'm doing it for 70 guardsmen.
I’ve been holding off on buying Speedpaint 2.0 to see if there were any glaring issues. You aren’t the first TH-camr that’s experienced the paint cracking problem. I bought some Vallejo Xpress Colors and I’ve really enjoyed working with them in a slapchop style on my Ork Kommandos. However, they currently have a very small color range. Army Painter is an awesome company for listening to their customers, so I’d love to give them my business, but I don’t want to deal with cracking finishes. I enjoyed your candid review, sir!
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it. They do a really good job of listening to the community so hopefully if this is widespread then it gets actioned. Might just be my set, or only certain primers/inks etc, but still a frustrating issue.
I also used Vallejo Xpress Colors on my Ork Kommandos. Gave them a purple uniform becuse extra sneaky but i found the Vallejo Xpress Colors reactivated when i varnished them with Vallejo mat varnish. The white primer showed on some spots. Redid them and put on the varnish "gently". I hope they put out some more colors soon.
@@RundOnline The Ork Skin for Xpress Colors is my favorite color for the Boyz! It’s just spot on, IMO. Sad to hear about the varnish reactivation; I haven’t gotten to that point in my painting yet. Did you use an airbrush or paint on the varnish?
@@j.taylor7361 I painted the varnish on with a brush. But you made me remember I had an airbrush somewhere stowed away in some shed so I took it out, set it up and tried that. Gotta say, using an airbrush also makes it reactivate but since I'm not using a brush the xpress stays on nice. I'll be using it for priming and varnishing for now.
The ultimate test for "reactivation" is GW's washes! I have a green wash that even removes the "undercoat" from galeforce9 'World of Tanks' models.
Holy Moly that's crazy! Definitely going to have to try that. I've always found they're fine over the top of speedpaint.
You’re saying using shades from GW removes the primer on Galeforce9 preprimed tanks?
That is a timely information! I was just about to start painting my first. Thanks a lot for the heads-up. 👍
My buddies just got me a sweet airbrush, I have the army painters paints but I think I will have to use my friend's paint based on your experience. Can't wait to try it out when I have some free time! Thanks for sharing my minis, they look sweeeeeeeet!
Very good thorough review but a non recommendation arguably seems a little harsh given most people will not prime with inks. Were you using a hairdryer to speed drying? It defo needs more testing to confirm if the issue repeats with regular priming. great video
Sorry, but I don't agree. Primer with white ink over the top is pretty common. I use this as well.
@@WorldWide3133 I agree with Carl Stanford...I also prime with ink, but I also mix mine with Matte Varnish to prevent issues just like this, with other washes.
This guy hasn't responded as to whether he mixes his with varnish, or just trusts the ink to hold up to whatever watery layers he adds later.
The ink thing is relatively uncommon, especially with newer painters; and of those who do, many don't necessarily mix with a varnish as they probably should to strengthen the ink layer.
The cracking is a pain.... sometimes i apply it over some paint and it cracks its hard to predict... its happens constantly over gloss or metallics but then sometimes it happens over general acrylics too!
I've painted a bunch of minis with these new paints and haven't noticed any cracking.
I had the same problem with Nuclear Sunrise having little bits of crud in it. Very strange paint, that one. Some of these from the set have dried so fast on me they gunk my brush up after just light use - some brush soap fixed it with zero issues, so not exactly catastrophic, but still pretty annoying. Have not had this cracking issue at all. Overall, 2.0 seems generally good with a handful of slam dunks and a handful of misses.
Very useful indeed. Im hoping that its either the primer or the varnish that has caused the cracking. As silly as it may sound Im very keen to buy some of these. I have the whole Vallejo Xpress color range and I have tell you that GW's range is superior to it. Im hoping that despite the odd glitch the Army Painter range can offer some competition. If anything they deserve credit for going back and addressing the problem (if it really was a problem that is).
I could not disagree with you more regarding the naming scheme - who hasn't found a neam like "Marsupial ass fur brownie black yellow" or "Jalampadoola reddie blue" to not be exactly the right colour descripters we need. I urge paint companies to hire a group of penlentoligists to name new colours for clarity sakes if nothing else.
That gave me a good laugh 😂 Doesn't sound silly at all, still worth while picking up a few of the colours you like the look of and seeing how they work for you and your setup. The original speedpaints are still some of my favorites, so there's a lot t chose from.
I think you either got a bad batch or the bottles weren't shaken up enough.
Maybe a bad batch. Definitely gave them a damned good shake just incase.
I've seen several reviews and you're the first one that has mentioned any cracking. I wonder what the difference is.
Likely the ink. I’ve never heard the other reviews using ink over just dry brushing acrylic or airbrushing it.
Watch the painting phase, they have the same.
They don’t use inks either. Just another major issue with ap, just wait for 3.0 😂
Great review. Thanks
Hmmm interesting. I have the set and have used it quite alot so far and never had any of the colors crack. I agree they dry too fast tho and Nuclear Sunrise sucks lol. Besides that i really like this set, but still think this was a really good review ^^
Interesting. Green Stuff dipping inks crack too, but not in such a consistent way lol Sometimes there isn't a single crack, sometimes (especially the one time I used them through an airbrush) they cracked horribly.
Yeah when I tried the dipping inks I found the same. Sometimes they cracked, sometimes they didn't. I found it was mostly when I was too heavy handed with them and applied too much.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures as someone who uses dipping inks, it is definitely from too much moisture. The cracks form if some of the moisture gets underneath the curing finish.
It happened a few times to me early on, but hasn’t happened in a long time now.
I've never had this cracking issue so far. Are you using a hair dryer ? This is a common issue and usually not recommended
I've been using SpeedPaints 2.0 for a few weeks now. I've seen zero cracking. I wonder if it has to do with your priming or using a heat gun to speed drying?
Just done a follow up to this and it was definitely the primer. The ink didn't work even when I mixed it with matte medium, and the gray airbrush primer also caused some issues, but far less severe. 8 other primers all worked fine.
have no issue with cracks, but the same problem with orange where dark bits flows in it, impossible to use.
I just got this set, but I prime with inks, so now I'm paranoid. 😂
I use a mixture of ink, medium and matte varnish for my white priming... you don't mention mixing with anything.
Maybe I'm safe? 😬
Hopefully you’re safe! I don’t mix them with anything. The mixing with a matte varnish sounds like a great idea though!
I think that the cracking comes with using additional medium. The ONLY time that I have had the cracking effect is when I cut a lot of the paint w/ 1:1 medium.
I cut mine 2:1 for painting smaller scales and have not gotten any cracking
I was wondering if adding the medium might reduce the cracking. I've only used a few paints from the set so far as I'm only using them if its a colour I don't have in my 1.0 set. I only noticed it on the saddle brown so far which I really don't like as it seems too thick and I find it gets messy really quickly.
Would you normally do an oil wash without applying varnish first?
Yep, I've never had an issue with it. The only paints that I've found it can have a negative effect on is airbrush paint if you don't leave it long enough to dry, otherwise it's always been fine for me.
Thanks for the review, I was going to buy the Full set because of the huge range. I'll hold off, for now. 👍I think a follow update would be good, a lot of people are using Slap Chop these days, primers only Zenithal, varnish mix, or after Ink etc
Is it just with your brand primer or have you used other brands as well. I have used Vallejo primer and I have not seen that issue.
I wonder if their could be "bad batches" in the production? 🤔 original og and the new 2.0. Iv seen terrific results and awful strange results on both types. Iv seen the original not reactivate, although a very low number compared to those who have had it reactivate. Same with 2.0 now, seen it hold up really well. Dry time, no bleed offs of any kind but again, now we see cracking and such. Surface tension problems? Who knows🤷🏻♂️ i love products that deliver a solid trait, that way its easy to find the groove with work with vs working around. Terrific review and thank you for shareing ur results👍🏻
Thanks so much for highlighting the issue with cracking when applied over Liquitex ink, that's normally what I use for primer highlighting too. I haven't tried these 2.0 speedpaints yet so I'll proceed with caution if I get hold of any.
Great Vid, thank you 🙏🏻 and have you tested the vallejo Speed Paints as well… curious if they do the same ☺️
No I've not. To be honest I kind of forgot they came out so I need to check them out.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures love to see your comments on them😍
Where you get the STL for the paint holder?
Just airbrush everything with a thin layer of army painter matt white after priming, that's what I've always done...
Your review is the literal opposite of every other review I've seen so far so I'm totally confused.
It's because he used an oil under it and expected the same results.
Did army painter send evey mini channel on youtube one of these sets? if i knew i would have made a channel :) keep up the great content
Not me 😂 I purchased mine. Definitely not a big enough channel for Army Painter to notice me 😂
For the point of the flakes in nuclear sunrise I've hade the same issue and reached out to the army painter support. They said that this is a environmental problem probably during transport. They offered me a refund for the one bottle as they currently aren't able to replace it.
That's interesting to know! Thanks for sharing.
Hmmm very interesting. I don’t have the v2 paints yet but I didn’t have a problem with the v1 set and it’ll be a while before the v1s are used up so I’ll probably wait a bit longer.
Makes sense. Gives time for the kinks to be ironed out.
Ive never had a single one of these colors crack. Not. A. One. What are you thinning these with?
The only time I've thinned them is with speedpaint medium to get it closer to a glaze consistency. What primer are you using? I'd be interested in trying a bunch of different ones and seeing what works best for these.
@Gray Scalp Miniatures I'm using Tamiya black primer with a light grey as a zenithal they dry brush with Reaper Pure White. I've used both Speed Paint Medium and Reaper Flow Improver to thin. Usually 2/1 paint/thinner. But I'm also painting smaller scales which may have something to do with it as well (I'm painting Warlord Epic ACW) or the speed paint may just be sticking better to the Tamiya primer...
Well that is a shame. Great video. Hope you dive further into the metallics as those are the ones I'm excited for. My OG citadel contrast is going strong.
Yeah the metallics were the things I was looking forward to the most. I love having them ready bottled and easy to use, but I need to play around with them more.
Have you tried Vallejo model color metallics?
I'm fine with my Strynylrez as a basecoat, but I'm actually looking out for cracking medium for ice bases and desert -- except that I don't like the results of most cracking mediums. :P If you could do a tutorial sometime that recommends a brush-on primer and Speedpaint combination (or a more guaranteed way to crack), I'd appreciate it! Thanks for the review!
Where do you get those little cap toppers?
I printed them. Just some scaled up space marine heads.
I just bought a set a few days ago and have the same issue with the Nuclear Sunrise. Ruddy Fur also has some chunks in it for me. I reached out to Army Painter as this seems defective to me.
what is that female barbarian mini you were painting?
I get so much crap for using Citadel paints...but I just haven't found a better paint and I have literally tried them all... so I guess I'll keep getting called a GW shill. Gret Vid BTW.
I love using both. Contrast paints have their uses, but I've always preferred Army Painter speedpaints just a touch more. I think whatever brand you use, you'll get some people calling you a shill for it. My thoughts are use what you like the best, that works best for your setup, and you're golden!
Contrast is best. I’m with you.
6:00 - Did you see reactivation with oil washes on Speedpaint 1.0? I thought it only happened with water and acrylic paints. I'd always assumed the reason I never saw reactivation on mine was because I always followed up the speedpaint layer with an oil wash, and the layer of oil was protecting the speedpaints.
Ouch... Not as much contrast as SP 1.0 is painful. Wish i would've known this prior to my preorder...
Thank you so much , this was really helpful. I really liked the original speedpaints as well , but was wondering if maybe different primers would yield different results? maybe a test for another video? :P got a subscribe from me as well.
And yet not a single crack on any of the space marine heads you did for the color examples... That must come down to the way the ones that cracked were primed, either the base primer or the ink that was used. Never really been sure why people use a fragile ink for the zenithal "prime", when it's NOT a primer and I'm pretty sure not meant to be painted over with a brush. I know a lot of people do, but personally I use actual primers for the zenithal. Inks are very very thin and very very fragile.
I do think it's massively affected by what primer is used. It was pretty consistent on the ink, regardless of how long it was left to cure, but it did also happen with my models primed with army painter grey, with army painter white from above, so it's not just the inks. Next I need to try a whole bunch of primers and see what works best for them.
too bad. maybe ill get a couple colors to see if i get the same problems, but if it cracks going over ink then it most likely won't be useful for me.
Fingers crossed it's only certain colours, or I got a bad batch. Definitely worth experimenting with certain colours you like the look of and go from there.
Did you try adding an acrylic retarder so the Speedpaint would dry more slowly? If the speed of drying may be causing cracks because it was drying too fast, then maybe slow it down a bit. Just make it Speedishpaint.
Let me know what primers you'd like to see tested and what you've been using with good results. As mentioned, it's a pretty consistent issue when I use my liquitex inks, but not an issue on the original speedpaints. The other primer I had an issue with is Army Painters grey and white air primer. The Army painter white from a rattle can was perfectly fine and I had 0 issues with cracking on that, and I had 0 issues with GW rattle can primer. I'll buy up a bunch of different primers and do a test with those and see what works, so let me know in the replies to what you'd like me to test.
Monument Hobbies Prime line would be lovely to see!
I actually cancelled an order of Speed Paint 2.0 from your review cause I don't have time to mess around with cracking. You may have saved me some money.That said, if the Monument Prime line works fine with them I might give it a go.
I even started doing my zenithals with Monument's white primer because I found with liquitex I basically had to do a varnish step because I would always re-activate it or take some off if I did a drybrush pass. The liquitex definitely makes a smoother finish but I decided to sacrifice some quality for convenience. Only real downside is white primer I need to blast my airbursh up to like 40 or 45 PSI for it to really atomize well.
One final thing I'd love to see is just the speed paint over a metallic base coat (whatever light-ish metallics you have - eg Runefang, AP metalics, Vallejo Metal Colours) because one of my favourite uses of them was to make cool coloured metals in the past. Eg, Cloudburst Blue would make a very nice cobalt. Sand Golem would make a passable gold.
Thank you very much for your content, it's extremely valuable information to me.
@@Weaver_Games No worries, I'll give that a shot, and I'll also do it over a metallic to see.
FYI the official Army painter channel commented on The Painting Phase's video about cracking
The Army Painter "Generally speaking, when paint is pooled too much and then forced to dry too quick, the resin on the outside cures before the resin mixed inside - then you get crazing (cracking). Easily remedied by wicking away, before heating. Or, letting it dry at a natural pace (which is a bit faster now with 2.0)."
Not sure if the is BS damage control 🤣
@@breakinmedia I'm personally okay with paints being difficult to use or having conditions under which they can be used improperly - but I need some real parameters of what constitutes misuse.
For these speed paints we need to know what is "too much pooling" exactly? Is there a litmus test to determine when I should wick away the excess and when it's desired? What is a "natural place" to dry? I paint in my house at a desk or table like probably 99.99% of users who likely don't have a dedicated climate controlled paint studio - what should the temperature and humidity be? Not that I can truly control those precisely but it would be good to know. I typically do batch painting so I almost never use a hair dryer.
I really like AP as a company. I believe in what they stand for and I believe they are truly trying to make great products for everyone. That said, my belief in your mission isn't going to get me to buy something not suited for my needs. I would personally rather pay more for something that works reliably.
I'd like to see the Vallejo grey primer via airbrush... very commonly used one.
I just purchased the new set. And I have to say I agree with you on all on your points.
Thanks for the detail and level of information put into your video. Definitely a sub from me!
Are you getting cracking with yours?
@@Weaver_Games I have not seen it on my models yet. But on wet pallet many of them are cracked
The helmets were a good base for the comparison. I’ve seen other channels use some really useless things to compare the paints which give no indication how they’d look on a typical model.
The reactivation being replaced lack of contrast makes these pretty useless imo. The 1.0 vs 2.0 comparison really sold that. They basically look like standard thinned paints now.
That's what made me go with the helmets. I figured I could paint a base or something, but the helmets are going to be vaguely similar to actual things I'll want to paint.
i saw a bunch of test of the V2 you're the first one where i see crack
There's no acrylic ink that doesn't have serious problems, including expensive le-artiste brands. Interesting review nonetheless.
Wait, it is a deal breaker b/c you use Liquitex white ink for your zenithal highlights from your airbrush; kind of a niche complaint, and IMHO, not very insightful vis-a-vis a review. The 'cracking' problem is interesting, but you are the first and only reviewer to mentions this. I think more experimentation is needed, as does acquiring some AP Speed Paints from a different distributor.
Painting phase gets cracking issues and stahly has problems too
@@ChaplainAppollus Stahly mentioned that reactivation was greatly improved, and rated the Speedpaint 2.0 an "A Tier" product. Stop with the catastrophizing to make your AP hating sound more rational.😂
@@VanDavis keep drinking the cool aid
@@ChaplainAppollus great response to someone questioning the veracity of your claims. ✌️
Damn! I pre-ordered but have yet to use them - that cracking is bad news.
Don't worry, it's not a common issue at all. This video is literally the only instance I've seen where this issue is being reported. I've also never personally had any issues with cracking. That leads me to believe the only reason it's cracking for him is because of something in his personal painting process, not because there's a problem with the paints themselves.
The painting phase and stahly has problems as well, but then maybe you are only watching reviewers that actually helped design the paints…
@@ChaplainAppollus Why try to imply that anyone who has anything good to say about these paints isn't being honest? I watch a wide variety of reviewers and the overwhelming majority have had nothing but good things to say about these paints.
Also, I've used these paints too and haven't had any issue with them, especially when it comes to cracking. So again, the logical conclusion is that the problem is with his painting process, not the paints.
@@Commodore22345 why are you trying to say that this isn’t an issue when I have just told you that two other reviewers have reported the exact same issue? Are you saying that those reviewers aren’t being honest? If three reviewers are experiencing the same issue it would suggest that the problem is with the product rather than any process…
And yes I would question a lot of other reviewers such as watch it paint it, goobertown and Dana howls as they “helped” produce this new range meaning that ap are giving them a cut of the profits so they aren’t going to give out a objective review are they? Also it is no secret that ap are reached out to a huge amount of TH-camrs this time for free stuff to try and limit the negative feedback that they experienced with the original product. The long and short of it is they released a product that had issues which they scrapped after a couple of months only to be able to sell you the same paints over again. Whether you agree or not this new product has issues as well. If you like the paints then cool, good for you. But don’t lie and gaslight other reviewers that don’t have the same opinion as you. AP fanboys are almost like a cult now, if any other company had done the same as ap then they would have been torn to shreds.
@@ChaplainAppollus No I'm not saying those reviewers are being dishonest. I'm saying they haven't considered all the possibilities as to why the paint behaves the way it does for them. For example, other commenters have pointed out that using inks to prime models has been known to cause cracking in a wide variety of paints from a wide variety of companies. Guess what this reviewer primes his models with? Inks. I don't know about those other reviewers you mentioned though. But if they use inks as well, then that would seem to be the culprit, not the paints themselves.
And no, three reviewers having issues does not indicate that there is a problem when there are many more reviewers and customers (so people that have no reason to be dishonest) that have no issue with the paints at all.
As for the rest of your nonsensical rant accusing everyone who likes these paints of being paid shills: It seems like you have some weird axe to grind with Army Painter to the point you are inventing these grandiose conspiracy theories in an attempt to silence any positive opinions of a line of paints you clearly don't like.
I’ve watched a lot of reviews for this and haven’t seen any mention of cracking. So I’m not convinced it’s an issue
Painting Phase also reported cracking
Same any TH-camr had reactivation issues eh?😊
Im a big fan of army painter normal paints and washes but imagine putting speed paint onto an expensive model and it cracking
Thank you for this honest review. You've probably just saved me a small fortune on their 2.0 set. I think I'll try Vallejo xpress colours next.
You're welcome. They're worth keeping an eye on though because hopefully the issue gets ironed out, and it might not be applicable to you and the way you prime your models. However, it's always good to know so that you don't get caught out.
I'll skip buying the set for now and wait until they sell singles and buy them that way to test more affordably.
It happens with most whites and with every ink. The ink dries in a very thin layer. The extremely fast drying of the sp 2.0 literally crumbles the ink layer and destroys it. Army Painter was so horny to get into the "contrast game" money, that they rushed out another flawed product, which is even worse than the first one. They want to fulfill the "speed" expectation so hard, they forget to test it right. I bet they only tested theyre own, very thick primer and maybe some slapchop. And they never tested airbrush, which dont uses any solvent in the primer like a rattlecan. If you ask them they ignore and ban you from their channel, because they dont want another disaster. The honest answer ive got was "Speedpaints are made for people who want to play fast". But even when this is trough, its not fun if you prime with a white primer and the paint crackles. And they literally say "We dont want to sell these to people who paint on a more advanced level. Only on noobs in the hobby"
Other Problems with the rapid drying time:
-you have to use it on a wet palette or you waste more paint than you use
- like every contrast it ruins your sponge in the palette XD
- you literally cant blend it.
- the pigmentation is not as good as sp 1.0 or contrast
I cant recommend this to anyone. The sp 1.0 had its problems, but you can use this or work around. I cant use crackling paint except for basing XD
So i use Contrast and Xpress. Xpress has not that brightness, but its other specs are nice. They dont separate, they have a good drying time, you can mix, thin, blend them easily. Only the small palette and missing of "bright AF" Colors are a thing. But i see that vallejo knows what theyre doin. They test the colors before they rush them out.
So. Another Army Painter Product where you can say "If you buy cheap, you buy twice". Except the fact Xpress colors are cheaper XD Because Army Painter had the guts to increase the Prize to send a big FU to the people who bought SP 1.0
You realise that you did absolutely Not use the same set of colour's for those 2 Orks, right? ^^
As close as I could get from looking at the bottles. Always hard to tell, at least I always find it hard, and there aren't direct matches in this set.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures there will be 2.0 versions of the older colours released by the end of this month. In a huge package as well as in single bottles. But the new Grim Black in your set for example is already the updated version of the older Grim Black. :)
Pro tip: better don't use the AP Ork Skin colour, since it is awful. Ork Skin by Vallejo is way better. But some of the other greens in the AP Speedpaint range (sometimes thinned) make wonderful skin colours for Orks. They work even better over a proper Slapchop underpainting.
Excellent. Convinced me to save my money and skip these.
Seems to me that your main issue is that you're not trying out other colours for base coats and instead sticking with just shades. Some colours don't look good with a grey or black base as it will change the colour of the paints used, like yellows will turn a dark green colour. But if you used something closer to a light brown, like a sepia, you'll get the right colour for the shadows.
I'm not picky. You can send me yours and I'll figure something out.
There's just been way too many issues reported with this range for me to consider buying into it. GW's contrast paints do everything I need and I've encountered no problems with them through the airbrush, highlighted over etc.
If you read through the rest of these comments, there are a few who have issues and plenty who haven't had any. It's worth remembering that every line has good and bad reviews; and that sometimes, every lot of any paint brand can have a few bad batches, and newer products sometimes just have a period of adjustment to work through.
Am i the only one who didnt even experience reactivation? people really blew it out of proportion
I think you are. If you didn’t experience it, you were probably using it as a one coat. If you got the paint wet it would come right off. One model I forgot I did one color in speedpaint, and when I applied a wash to the model, the speedpaint color got wet again and it’s color mixed around all over the model, ruining it.
Soo the original og speed paint formula is no longer in production?? Hell, as much r&d and feedback they did, should of just offered two kinds in a newer mega sized set. Regular and 2.0 🤷🏻♂️
I don't know what you messed up, that your colors are cracking.. not me..
They should’ve just left the formula the same. Reactivating wasn’t a big deal at all people just overreacted to that but it really wasn’t a problem in practice. Now they may have created a worse product for no good reason
I loved the reactivation on the original set. I know some people hated it, but I always found it was easy to work with and made highlighting a really easy thing to do. I get that's not what everyone wants though.
Yep I’m very sad the way it got handled the original set should have said on the product reactivation can occur, it’s fair people who didn’t want that would be annoyed but all the money the spent over hauling the product could have been used to crest some videos and booklets showing how to use reactivation to advantage
This is just wrong. It’s bizarre to say that reactivation wasn’t an issue. You can’t have paint get wet again once it’s dried. That’s common logic.
@@douglasmurdoch7247 I painted many models to what I feel is a high standard without a single issue and didn’t bother varnishing between. Not wrong, try it
@@douglasmurdoch7247 Id take reactivation over tide marks any day
Oh wow i was close to ordering the 2.0 mega set. But these cracks :x maybe I should get more contrast paints
oh wow. people still priming black and then using contrast/speed paint over them... do NOT do this.
if you arent using a zenthil prime , your using them wrong
maybe the liquitex prime is conflicting with speed paint? seems unfair to judge a product for model painting based on how it goes on something meant to be used with pen and paper
I get where you're coming from, but as I said, it also happened with another prime, and it didn't happen with the original speedpaints. Also, I had plenty of positive things to say about them, but my conclusion is just for people to hold fire unless of course they're using a primer they know gets great results.
You should explain to all the pro mini painters that are using liquitex inks and teaching how to use them that they're doing it wrong. That's about as fair.
It's literally not happening to the other pro painters using the product.
Also, this isn't a product for pro painters.
Thanks for the review...
This just confirms these companies are more interested in cranking out product and using their loyal fans as test subjects instead of extensively testing them in company before they hit the streets. NO THANKS. -_-
I also suspect AP is a shell company of GW just to offer competition with itself nobody.
This is a misleading review. No other reviews have seen cracks and its clearly due the unndercoat you are choosing to use.
Also, citadel is double the price and has worse application when drying in most interests.
Feels like an odd hit piece.
Misleading comment as painting phase has had the same issues and also stahly has found problems with the paints as well
@@ChaplainAppollus Stahly mentioned that reactivation was greatly improved, and rated the Speedpaint 2.0 an "A Tier" product. Stop with the catastrophizing to make your AP hating sound more rational.😂
@@VanDavis he said greatly improved but not resolved. Just pointing out that other reviews have found problems when this comment says no other reviews have seen cracks which isn’t true.
@@ChaplainAppollus yeah, "just pointing it out," in a way that makes it sound like it's a lot worse than one other reviewer...and bringing in Stahly without explicitly stating what he said, or how he actually still really likes Speedpaint 2.0.
Totally impartial and not misleading at all. 👍
just give me normal paint and lets paint lol
I had the same problem with tiny chunks in AP airbrush paints. They have an issue with QC somewhere. The fast drying you're reporting makes SP 2.0 not an attractive product for me. I love SP 1.0. I liked the longer drying time. Reactivation was something I could use. I liked 1.0 because they did something other products of their type didn't do. SP 2.0 are now just a cheaper, but inferior, choice to the competition. That's unfortunate.
Or, he got a bad batch, like you apparently got a bad batch of AirPaints...mine have never had "flakes" or any other issues. 🤷🏻
@Van Davis "Bad batches" are indicative of a problem in QA/QC, as I said. It happens, but it needs to be addressed. But If it's happening across product lines, then there's a systemic problem. Not the biggest deal in brush on paints and it would stop me from buying SP 2.0 if they had any of the features that I liked from the first version. But it clogs my airbrush and that's a problem.
@@briarsandbantams multiple bad batches are a QC "problem." SOME issues are a normal part of any production business.
As far as "needing to deal with it"...did you write them about your AirPaint issue? I'm willing to bet they offered a replacement. Anything else you might have problems with, I don't know what you expect.
I wonder why the majority of other reviewers have not had the same experience? I’ve pretty much watched every review out there of speed paint in order to make up my mind and no one has ever witnessed this other than you? Perhaps its your primer? A bad batch?
The painting phase had the cracking issue. Then stahly had issues. Maybe the majority of the other reviewers haven’t commented on this because ap employed a lot of “influencers” like goobertown, Dana howl and watch it paint it to “design” the paints. They are not going to really give a fully objective review on a product they are on the payroll of.
@@ChaplainAppollus Stahlys review mentioned no such thing. He even put speedpaint 2.0 on his "A" tier. Not sure what you're talking about. Conspiracy theories are silly because plenty of other people have their hands on this paint by now.
@@AntiKaratekid stahly says the reactivation issue still exists. Also repeats it in the comments
@@ChaplainAppollus Reactivation is a very different issue than "cracking" which this reviewer (and essentially only him) found. Also, Stahly and others have mentioned reactivation is essentially gone after a few mins. Just look at the test videos. If you're going to talk about conspiracy theories, please know what issue you're even talking about
@@AntiKaratekid does the painting phase not count as a reviewer then? Not sure how it is a conspiracy theory when people without any skin in the game have proved it.
The paints crack!? woa that is so not okay
The Painting Phase also suffered cracking on there testing of the set too. Shame really.
Why isnt there any good American paont companies? Only saying this as its a tad expensive always importing paint.
Never had a good experience with any AP stuff other than dark and strong tone. Drybrush set had 2 of 3 brushes lose bristles after the first cleaning, and once they started to come out, they all did shortly after. In the bin they went. Also tried some of their regular paints and they were not great. They were meh, nothing worth a spot on my shelf. With the SpeedPaint 1.0 reactivation debacle and my past history with AP products, these would never be on my radar. To find out they don't work with inks, I dodged another bullet.
funny thumbs down thumbnail gets a thumbs down from me
Sadly, disappointing once again