cheers mate. So many instructional videos these days where it is very clear the person has no idea what they are talking about so im trying to break that trend.
Hey man figured you would be a good bloke to ask, but on my RD I am running into a slight issue where if it revs over 4k rpm and then I come off the throttle, the motor stalls. Doesn't happen all the time but definetely is an annoying issue that I would like to rid. Is a 98 GU RD28ETI
hmmm that is stange. with the ETI it is a bit harder to guess what the issue could be. does it throw a check engine light when it does? if it doesnt it is likely an issue with the pump. if a hose it loose or has a hole in it between the pump inlet and the fueltank outlet it could be opening up as pressure builds and sucking air in which is killing the pump case pressure not allowing injection pressure to be achieved. id think though that if air is getting it the injectors would need re bleeding and it wouldnt start back up.
id assume that would be a maf signal issue, if the volts spike the engine will go into a closed loop map which makes way less power as the engine assumes permaiters without taking information from the fam or iat senors.
how did you solve the MAF voltage going out of range and going into LIMP mode? I have a MAF calibrator coming from Greece so I can scale the voltage. Its the only option I could find now that Jaycar doesnt make anything anymore...
i solved all the elecrtical dramas by sticking a fully mechincal pump on the engine. its a great upgrade as the ETI pump has lousy throttle pedal feedback and often has dramas with the electronics if any mud or water gets in or around them.
@@ebayenthusiast42 yeah don't want to go there with a new pump plus I'm stubborn :p the MAF voltage is sitting 0.2v higher at idle than stock. This throws the range out. Will rescale to bring it with ECU specs. If that fails it's Unichip X ECU time
@@keilfestin4606 nah the pump and holset absolutely loved it. Unfortunately the engine itsself is super old its got so much blowby. Made the decision to put it on hold and get my other build done. Im thinking i might do a swap to a td42 but the big thing will be a cab swap as that one is absolutely rusted out
@@ebayenthusiast42ahh right I just did mine new 11mm mech and holset 200wg made about 170hp but having over heating issues when I went up to bundy and rocky still made it ..I’m thinking it’s head gasket or crack head . Still planning to replace the head and doing a cooling mod of this fails might go TD but then overheating issues again 😅😅😅
@@keilfestin4606 the TD isnt much of a better engine it is just as old and weighs a tonne. its only two benefits are displacement for useable torque when out of boost and a crossflow head. my RD was usually cool unless it was out on the beach or pulling all the way through 4th and 5th gear. unfortunatly the RD head has poor cooling passage design and suffers from this.
1 bar would be a bit high, id try to find one with under 8 psi working pressure. diesel is a bit more viscous than petrol too so a gasoline pump may have issues after extended use.
You always go into such detail, great video 👍
cheers mate. So many instructional videos these days where it is very clear the person has no idea what they are talking about so im trying to break that trend.
@@ebayenthusiast42 you’re doing great 👍
Hey man figured you would be a good bloke to ask, but on my RD I am running into a slight issue where if it revs over 4k rpm and then I come off the throttle, the motor stalls. Doesn't happen all the time but definetely is an annoying issue that I would like to rid. Is a 98 GU RD28ETI
hmmm that is stange. with the ETI it is a bit harder to guess what the issue could be. does it throw a check engine light when it does? if it doesnt it is likely an issue with the pump. if a hose it loose or has a hole in it between the pump inlet and the fueltank outlet it could be opening up as pressure builds and sucking air in which is killing the pump case pressure not allowing injection pressure to be achieved. id think though that if air is getting it the injectors would need re bleeding and it wouldnt start back up.
so what does it mean when the pump cuts fuel at WOT and throws an injector pump engine code? Is a chip turned up to much? Asking for a friend
id assume that would be a maf signal issue, if the volts spike the engine will go into a closed loop map which makes way less power as the engine assumes permaiters without taking information from the fam or iat senors.
also, how does one get a copy of the manual?
if you find the facebook group "RD28 patrol owners" there is a manual in the shared files in the group.
how did you solve the MAF voltage going out of range and going into LIMP mode? I have a MAF calibrator coming from Greece so I can scale the voltage. Its the only option I could find now that Jaycar doesnt make anything anymore...
i solved all the elecrtical dramas by sticking a fully mechincal pump on the engine. its a great upgrade as the ETI pump has lousy throttle pedal feedback and often has dramas with the electronics if any mud or water gets in or around them.
@@ebayenthusiast42 yeah don't want to go there with a new pump plus I'm stubborn :p the MAF voltage is sitting 0.2v higher at idle than stock. This throws the range out. Will rescale to bring it with ECU specs. If that fails it's Unichip X ECU time
hey mate got a question in regards to a 12mm td42 pump im testing at the moment, I tried contacting you're instagram but im not able to send messages.
How the GU going any issues after doing mechanical pump and turbo upgrade?
@@keilfestin4606 nah the pump and holset absolutely loved it. Unfortunately the engine itsself is super old its got so much blowby. Made the decision to put it on hold and get my other build done. Im thinking i might do a swap to a td42 but the big thing will be a cab swap as that one is absolutely rusted out
@@ebayenthusiast42ahh right I just did mine new 11mm mech and holset 200wg made about 170hp but having over heating issues when I went up to bundy and rocky still made it ..I’m thinking it’s head gasket or crack head . Still planning to replace the head and doing a cooling mod of this fails might go TD but then overheating issues again 😅😅😅
@@keilfestin4606 the TD isnt much of a better engine it is just as old and weighs a tonne. its only two benefits are displacement for useable torque when out of boost and a crossflow head. my RD was usually cool unless it was out on the beach or pulling all the way through 4th and 5th gear. unfortunatly the RD head has poor cooling passage design and suffers from this.
Can we use a gas 1bar pump?
1 bar would be a bit high, id try to find one with under 8 psi working pressure. diesel is a bit more viscous than petrol too so a gasoline pump may have issues after extended use.