Your video. I love it for these reasons: Integrity and logic. My favorite thing about project recaps s getting to the why and the lessons learned. You showed me so much in the video, but I learned the most from you showing how you messed up and then fixed it for a happy outcome. Much respect, sir! Thank you for this video.
I’ve been looking at a good system to get for under my deck and all other videos I’ve seen always seem to NOT show the reality of blocking or double joists situations we all face. Very nice video you did here. Great job and love how your project turned out.
Fully dry? I can see debris getting stuck next to the joist and rotting out your joists over time. Reason being you don't have access to caulk the inside smooth due to the deck board above. There's a reason why these after the fact retrofit systems are as expensive as an arm and a leg.
I read the entire Ryan’s th-cam.com/users/postUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 Plans and was able to make a shed plan. Using Ryan’s Shed Plans alone, the shed itself is great. Where I wish I knew more is with respect to ground preparation and foundations. Maybe that's beyond the scope of Ryan’s Shed Plans.
This appears to be a great solution but I priced out my 11'X15' deck at Home Depot today. Over $1,600.00!! For some plastic! Either Home Depot or AZEK are insane. I will get another price but will never pay close to that.
It's not about cost, but about what is the system worth to you. Plus, they probably don't sell these in high volumes which jacks up per unit price. But I agree, these things are way too expensive.
@@samu3813 It's absolutely about cost for some people. In my situation, I'm only using the space for storage so in my case, paying upwards to $2,500 just for dry storage space is insane.
@markdichiara9486 I've been looking at corrugated roof panels at about $700 for a 16x20 space. But mine is for a crawl space so I value height just as much. This solution would be best but $$$$! My next option is to look at plain old PVC wall panelling but they don't really provide channels like this or corrugated panels.
Great video. One suggestion, add a piece of flat metal counter flashing to the rim joist as a splash guard before you install the gutter. This will keep water from getting between the backside of the rim joist and the gutter. Great clean job!
Wow, great work! Thank you so much for the pain-point tips (cutting, tool tips, soap, etc.). I have the same situation. I’ve been wanting to do something like this for a long time (and enjoy the outdoors, even though it’s raining a little). I think I’m finally motivated! PS: can someone please point me to an easy / simple ‘ Flagstone/ Pavers ‘ video?
There’s a problem with trapping moisture that runs thru the decking, down the side of the joists and behind the combo brackets. This will cause accelerated rot of the joists. This is further exacerbated by any pine needles or trapped dirt.
As with everything on a house ,there is maintenance. As with this system you will have to clean the channels. . Simply remove a deck board at the top if the deck and wash the debris out . Not difficult at all .
Totally agree with the OP. If they were going to install a system like this, it should have been upside down with the combo bracket on top of the joist prior to nailing down the decking.
Just screw corrugated iron under the deck. Cheaper, quicker and last 30 years. Also will not rot out the wood as you can put the rubber o rings on the top to separate the wood from the iron. Can still install the guttering as well.
Meh there’s always someone who knows how to do it better lol. I know because I’m in Enid this people, however, this video it’s done properly where it gets to the point it’s definitely detailed, but it doesn’t drag you along well done, sir. Makes perfect sense how all the components work together actually, attempt something like this in the future. Thank you for sharing.
So how do you clean that out when it gets full of Douglas Fir needles in less than 1 year? This must be an option only for inner city use, with no surrounding vegetation.
Nothing beats pre panning a dry under deck before the deck boards go down. After that, any systems is bound to have lots of negatives. EPDM pond liners are the best, but lots of work upfront. After that, just hope you has enough slop and get ride of your pine trees. Every system clogs over time, if there are pine trees around
Is there something similar to this but for a 2nd story outdoor balcony from neighbors shoving things through their cracks and overwatering their plants so that it floods below with dirty water?
Great set up, and I have something similar on my deck. I have some trees near the deck and the debris that falls between the cracks on top of the deck end up trapped in the corrugated material I have under the deck. Any suggestions?
wow, i never knew something like this exsist. now i can stay clean and dry whenever i run to a deck for cover. thanks brent. i really should not be surprized though cause ive learned about other innovative things by watching you.
Yeah, but he got all of this stuff for free. This system is stupidly expensive for what it is actually composed of. One 16' V panel is around 50 dollars. The hanging brackets are about 85 bucks each. That's 135$ PER joist bay, not including fasteners, tape, starter track and gutters. A 20' deck is going to cost you around 3 grand- and that's if you do all the work yourself....
@@aaronellingsen5404 i dont care, aaron. im not a tradesman and i cannot get into those trade shows unless. youtube videos have some incredible videos of things that are practical and can solve real issues.plus you find out here whats on the market so you can ask for it.
I have a dual layer deck, underneath the main deck os covered with corrugated roofing so it currently protects my riding mower. Im about to get another mower in a zero turn so my older mower needs to be relocated underneath the unprotected bottom part of the deck. This system looks nice but im not trying to spent a grip of money. Im thinking some cheap corrugated metal with a partial overlay and maybe using a 2x4 on one side to give me enough slop to drain water..
What stops water from going between the joist and the panel but at the bottom of each joist? Seems like water would run between these two edges and be trapped at the bottom of each joist?
I had this system installed by a contractor and it looks great and works well. I have a few spots that leak at the gutter where the water doesn’t drip into the gutter, it tends to follow around the panel and misses the gutter causing a leak. It is especially bad during heavier rain. This same issue would be resolved with a drip plate, or panel, if it were on a house. Any suggestions on why this is happening, or what to do to stop it?
So this is exactly what I need to update my 30 year old wood lattice patio cover, we want shade and rain protection, my wife wants it torn down and have a aluminum wood patio installed instead. The wood is till good, it just looks rough, it needs to be painted, It was very expensive wood 30 years ago today it will make you sit down. What would you recommend for the top, out of site out of thought but it will still rot in the elements? The patio is 14' x 25', the stringers are dual separated by a 4" x 4" and three feet apart. Very typical patio. Thanks in advance
I just bought a home up in Skagit County. We have a carport with the roof that serves as a deck off our kitchen. Currently the deck is covered in a rubber membrane that is very soft in areas. The plywood underneath is obviously rotten. Ideally, I want to remove the membrane and replace it with a more traditional wooden decking. This product might be perfect for the roof of the carport, under the deck.
I have a similar plywood membrane solution that has lasted over 30 years. Last time I recoated it was 15 yrs ago. Still no leaks. But it's not pretty like deck boards. Functional and underneath is completely dry. I have to pressure wash carefully every 2 years .
This comment section is a bit negative so I'll add something helpful. If you need to cut a hole in a piece of plastic or thin PVC, you can just run your hole saw in reverse and melt your way through it. It's easier to hold still and leaves a clean edge.
Can someone please explain how putting plastic over the bottom of the joist that is exposed to water will not rot it out in a few years? I am slow so please forgive me.
So i have a piece of land covered with wood in my backyard. I took all the paint away with some tools because the wood was starting to go bad. Every two to four years I have to scratch the paint away and paint the wood again. Is there a way to make my painted wood last longer??? I live in a country where it snows. Thanks
I don't get it why not just instal polycarbonate underneath or some sort of light weight plastic roofing, this seems like an overly complicated way to divert water with an unnecessarily large amount of parts taped together that will eventually leak.
I just realized that you'd just have to install it at a slight downward slope and it would just run off the edge, you wouldn't even really need gutters unless you get a lot of rainfall and are worried about the runoff
@@CMZneu So the loss of light is the reason I didn’t go with this option. I kind of devised my own system, with polycarbonate cut in between the joists so I didn’t loose overhead space and doesn’t look tacky. The light filtering is amazing when looking out from below!
My thoughts, too. I suppose hardware cloth could be installed in the gaps between the joists to protect the top of the gutter, but birds aren't my only concern with an enclosed system like this. In my locale, wasps are a problem. The underside of my 12x21 deck regularly has 10-15 wasp nests. Since my current deck is open underneath, I can simply brush the nests off. If I enclose that area, I no longer have easy access and the wasps can use the gaps in the deck flooring as the entry point. That concern makes such a system a non-starter for me. I like the idea but think it would end up being more work than it's worth. My deck has a full roof, and the patio below the deck stays reasonably dry, except with a driving rain. A system like this can't keep my patio dry in such a situation. Nice video though. Well done to the author.
Very nice 👍 Prior to me know about this stuff on my last deck I did a system using some strapping and vinyl siding. Worked well but I noticed over the years a build up a dirt and pin tree debris. Cheers
I would love to know they value that you’ve added to your home with all these projects. The one thing I wonder also is will it pay off because your neighbors may not be up to speed like you which changes market cost.
This was super helpful! I'm curious if the joist spacing was narrower for the double and triple joists and if you needed to decrease the width of the v channels. My deck has joist extensions that go from double joists to single so I expect that's going to be tricky. Thx!
Trex Rain escape is another product to keep the space under your deck dry. It goes over your joists so must be installed before decking. You did not do a good job explaining how sealed around the PVC pipe. Seems like you would have a leak around that also.
Could you use like a flex seal spray-on instead of the tape to prevent moisture from getting under the vinyl brackets? Wouldn't spray-on give you a more reliable prevention?
Ive watched this video and like the system but can't do install myself...(full time work, kid, house etc...) I called the local companies that sell and offer installation...Looking at $2400 (for my size deck) plus cost of install...😮😢
I guess when you live on Lake Washington you can afford a system like that... Too rich for my blood... I have a 12 x 26' elevated deck and went the cheap route, a 2 pack of Costco tarps and a handful of 2 x 8 x 12 pressure-treated and made 1x strips, did tapered blocking, I gave the tarp a very slight belly in between each stringer, and when it comes to Pineneedles all you have to do is reach up and swat it with your hand and keep hitting them all the way to the end...and I made a gutter system from 4" PVC cut in half lengthwise Both ends of this tarp system are open so air passes through so no moisture problems whatsoever ... I did this as kind of a joke/experiment but I did it nice and clean...3 years later and it looks just as good as the day I put it in .... those Costco tarps are tough as nails... All of the pressure treated 1x strips and blocking I made show no signs of rot due to the pressure treated sealer that I put on them before I put them in place...
@@samu3813 my system wasn't meant to be permanent, my temporary system and my permanent solution that I have recently completed is a fraction of the cost of the system in this video. And I'll get back to you in 20 years on the solution I've installed...Vinyl seems to get brittle in due time..
Is the paint on joists for waterproofing? Was tape put on the top edge on in side of joists, or is that supposed to carry water also? I have 17.5' between house and beam. Did I understand correctly that it comes in 16' lengths? This looks like it takes lots of time. Do the panels come in different widths? I have approximately 12" on center joists. I would love a response. My beam is 33' long. I appreciate your detailed descriptions. Great video!
In the time you took to ask all of your questions you could have googled your answers and learned that the v panels come in 12’ or 16’ sections in either 12” or 16” widths. He taped all of the top of his joists with a 1’ overhang over the side. Incredible amount of effort is put into the entire process as well as filming and editing footage so maybe next time consider a quick google search.
This is nuts, never mind the dirt that will collect and eventually choke off the water run. If you need the bottom to be waterproof, why even install decking, install a real waterproof floor and outdoor tiling over it.
Nope. Don’t do this. Panting wood seals in moisture. Your deck will rot 10 times faster. Then slowing the water from draining faster is a recipe for disaster.
Not if you wait for the wood to dry out then paint every surface. My deck is painted and lasted 20 + years. I just repainted 6 years ago and the areas I primed and repainted was still solid. The issue with painting wood is allowing entry points. Cover it all or nothing at all.
get ready for bees nests by the hundreds. You'll never have a minute's peace. Whats worse is you won't even be able to get to them to wipe them out. Wouldn't do this at my house if it were free!
No this doesn't look right to me. The moisture has no easy way out of the space between the deck board and the plastic. This will largely shorten the life of the deck frame, unless you do a wonderful job on sealing the framing lumber. If you are redoing the deck, just use the over deck system. Or wait until you want to replace the boards, remove them and install the over deck system. Don't try to hurt your frame.
Your video. I love it for these reasons: Integrity and logic. My favorite thing about project recaps s getting to the why and the lessons learned. You showed me so much in the video, but I learned the most from you showing how you messed up and then fixed it for a happy outcome. Much respect, sir! Thank you for this video.
I like it when people show their errors. Some channels make everything look perfect the first time
I’ve been looking at a good system to get for under my deck and all other videos I’ve seen always seem to NOT show the reality of blocking or double joists situations we all face. Very nice video you did here. Great job and love how your project turned out.
How can you monitor then wasp nests being built in this space?
I did the same thing using some stripping to create a slope and then screwed clear polycarbonate roofing sheets. Let's light through and kept me dry
it last pretty well?
Fully dry? I can see debris getting stuck next to the joist and rotting out your joists over time. Reason being you don't have access to caulk the inside smooth due to the deck board above. There's a reason why these after the fact retrofit systems are as expensive as an arm and a leg.
@@samu3813 the preinstalled systems are just as expensive.
I read the entire Ryan’s th-cam.com/users/postUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 Plans and was able to make a shed plan. Using Ryan’s Shed Plans alone, the shed itself is great. Where I wish I knew more is with respect to ground preparation and foundations. Maybe that's beyond the scope of Ryan’s Shed Plans.
This appears to be a great solution but I priced out my 11'X15' deck at Home Depot today. Over $1,600.00!! For some plastic! Either Home Depot or AZEK are insane. I will get another price but will never pay close to that.
It's not about cost, but about what is the system worth to you. Plus, they probably don't sell these in high volumes which jacks up per unit price. But I agree, these things are way too expensive.
@@samu3813 It's absolutely about cost for some people. In my situation, I'm only using the space for storage so in my case, paying upwards to $2,500 just for dry storage space is insane.
@markdichiara9486 I've been looking at corrugated roof panels at about $700 for a 16x20 space. But mine is for a crawl space so I value height just as much. This solution would be best but $$$$! My next option is to look at plain old PVC wall panelling but they don't really provide channels like this or corrugated panels.
Great video. One suggestion, add a piece of flat metal counter flashing to the rim joist as a splash guard before you install the gutter. This will keep water from getting between the backside of the rim joist and the gutter.
Great clean job!
Wow, great work! Thank you so much for the pain-point tips (cutting, tool tips, soap, etc.). I have the same situation. I’ve been wanting to do something like this for a long time (and enjoy the outdoors, even though it’s raining a little). I think I’m finally motivated!
PS: can someone please point me to an easy / simple ‘ Flagstone/
Pavers ‘ video?
Well done!!!This is a nice guide for my first step to build the storage under deck.
There’s a problem with trapping moisture that runs thru the decking, down the side of the joists and behind the combo brackets. This will cause accelerated rot of the joists. This is further exacerbated by any pine needles or trapped dirt.
This is obviously the best solution without tearing up the deck… hindsight is 20/20
I'm surprised he didn't run the tape along the top of the brackets, because I immediately noticed it's not flush with the joists.
As with everything on a house ,there is maintenance. As with this system you will have to clean the channels. . Simply remove a deck board at the top if the deck and wash the debris out . Not difficult at all .
@@brettsurrett4596 Remove the deck board? Are you kidding me?
Totally agree with the OP. If they were going to install a system like this, it should have been upside down with the combo bracket on top of the joist prior to nailing down the decking.
Just screw corrugated iron under the deck. Cheaper, quicker and last 30 years. Also will not rot out the wood as you can put the rubber o rings on the top to separate the wood from the iron. Can still install the guttering as well.
How would you slop it? A video would help. And I promise to like it.
Meh there’s always someone who knows how to do it better lol. I know because I’m in Enid this people, however, this video it’s done properly where it gets to the point it’s definitely detailed, but it doesn’t drag you along well done, sir. Makes perfect sense how all the components work together actually, attempt something like this in the future. Thank you for sharing.
Could you then put a ceiling in under the vinal, like tongue and groove cedar panels?
So how do you clean that out when it gets full of Douglas Fir needles in less than 1 year?
This must be an option only for inner city use, with no surrounding vegetation.
Once every 2 years, pop out the runs and replace? Like grudgingly?😅
Nothing beats pre panning a dry under deck before the deck boards go down. After that, any systems is bound to have lots of negatives. EPDM pond liners are the best, but lots of work upfront. After that, just hope you has enough slop and get ride of your pine trees. Every system clogs over time, if there are pine trees around
This is the best idea ever! Wish I knew why I always get the notifications a day late.
Thanks TimberTech I’ll see you soon 😁
Very cool system to highlight Brent. I never knew this was an option.
Is there something similar to this but for a 2nd story outdoor balcony from neighbors shoving things through their cracks and overwatering their plants so that it floods below with dirty water?
Great video! Now that you have had it awhile, how is it to clean? I am worried about the system getting clogged up.
One case that had sloped corrugated roofing under the deck did get all messed up from tree debris.
Great set up, and I have something similar on my deck. I have some trees near the deck and the debris that falls between the cracks on top of the deck end up trapped in the corrugated material I have under the deck. Any suggestions?
wow, i never knew something like this exsist. now i can stay clean and dry whenever i run to a deck for cover. thanks brent. i really should not be surprized though cause ive learned about other innovative things by watching you.
That’s the beauty of this system. Thanks so much for watching and the kind words.
@@BYOTools you are welcome!
Yeah, but he got all of this stuff for free. This system is stupidly expensive for what it is actually composed of. One 16' V panel is around 50 dollars. The hanging brackets are about 85 bucks each. That's 135$ PER joist bay, not including fasteners, tape, starter track and gutters. A 20' deck is going to cost you around 3 grand- and that's if you do all the work yourself....
@@aaronellingsen5404 i dont care, aaron. im not a tradesman and i cannot get into those trade shows unless. youtube videos have some incredible videos of things that are practical and can solve real issues.plus you find out here whats on the market so you can ask for it.
I have a dual layer deck, underneath the main deck os covered with corrugated roofing so it currently protects my riding mower. Im about to get another mower in a zero turn so my older mower needs to be relocated underneath the unprotected bottom part of the deck. This system looks nice but im not trying to spent a grip of money.
Im thinking some cheap corrugated metal with a partial overlay and maybe using a 2x4 on one side to give me enough slop to drain water..
Will a camp fire pit sparks and fire ash melt holes?
Will you still be able to pressure wash the deck? Or will the channels comes blasting out?
What stops water from going between the joist and the panel but at the bottom of each joist? Seems like water would run between these two edges and be trapped at the bottom of each joist?
I’m about to do this! No going to say I haven’t done this with a tarp before 😂
Thanks, great vid. I'm looking for something like this to use the area under my deck as storage. Although it looks like A LOT of work.
Don’t do it!
@@wilbgecko3249 I did a bit of research, read some reviews and decided not to!
What was the reason for not doing it?
I've never heard of this. That's pretty cool
Thanks for watching.
I had this system installed by a contractor and it looks great and works well. I have a few spots that leak at the gutter where the water doesn’t drip into the gutter, it tends to follow around the panel and misses the gutter causing a leak. It is especially bad during heavier rain. This same issue would be resolved with a drip plate, or panel, if it were on a house. Any suggestions on why this is happening, or what to do to stop it?
So this is exactly what I need to update my 30 year old wood lattice patio cover, we want shade and rain protection, my wife wants it torn down and have a aluminum wood patio installed instead. The wood is till good, it just looks rough, it needs to be painted, It was very expensive wood 30 years ago today it will make you sit down.
What would you recommend for the top, out of site out of thought but it will still rot in the elements? The patio is 14' x 25', the stringers are dual separated by a 4" x 4" and three feet apart. Very typical patio. Thanks in advance
How did you protect top of rafter under Trex board ?
I just bought a home up in Skagit County. We have a carport with the roof that serves as a deck off our kitchen. Currently the deck is covered in a rubber membrane that is very soft in areas. The plywood underneath is obviously rotten. Ideally, I want to remove the membrane and replace it with a more traditional wooden decking. This product might be perfect for the roof of the carport, under the deck.
I have a similar plywood membrane solution that has lasted over 30 years. Last time I recoated it was 15 yrs ago. Still no leaks. But it's not pretty like deck boards. Functional and underneath is completely dry. I have to pressure wash carefully every 2 years .
Labor will be very expensive, this is a professional types of work. IMO.
This comment section is a bit negative so I'll add something helpful. If you need to cut a hole in a piece of plastic or thin PVC, you can just run your hole saw in reverse and melt your way through it. It's easier to hold still and leaves a clean edge.
great job i love watching ur videos always really informative & entertaining
i need this in NJ order ready....
Won’t this create mold under your deck? It seems like it would hold a lot of water and humidity in that cavity.
Can someone please explain how putting plastic over the bottom of the joist that is exposed to water will not rot it out in a few years? I am slow so please forgive me.
He painter it. Let's hope there's coverage everywhere cause that wood ain't breathing after that.
Great job. I'm curious to know how you eliminate water from gathering between the joist and the combo bracket ?
So i have a piece of land covered with wood in my backyard. I took all the paint away with some tools because the wood was starting to go bad. Every two to four years I have to scratch the paint away and paint the wood again. Is there a way to make my painted wood last longer??? I live in a country where it snows. Thanks
I don't get it why not just instal polycarbonate underneath or some sort of light weight plastic roofing, this seems like an overly complicated way to divert water with an unnecessarily large amount of parts taped together that will eventually leak.
Genuine question - how would you stop the water from just staying/pooling on the polycarbonate?
I just realized that you'd just have to install it at a slight downward slope and it would just run off the edge, you wouldn't even really need gutters unless you get a lot of rainfall and are worried about the runoff
Yeah I also thought this seemed way too overkill. Just install a poly roof at a pitch and let it drain into a gutter.
Also a polycarbonate roof would let more sunlight through which i think is the idea if you are building under a deck otherwise why even have deck.
@@CMZneu So the loss of light is the reason I didn’t go with this option. I kind of devised my own system, with polycarbonate cut in between the joists so I didn’t loose overhead space and doesn’t look tacky.
The light filtering is amazing when looking out from below!
How do you keep birds from nesting in the gutter?
My thoughts, too. I suppose hardware cloth could be installed in the gaps between the joists to protect the top of the gutter, but birds aren't my only concern with an enclosed system like this. In my locale, wasps are a problem. The underside of my 12x21 deck regularly has 10-15 wasp nests. Since my current deck is open underneath, I can simply brush the nests off. If I enclose that area, I no longer have easy access and the wasps can use the gaps in the deck flooring as the entry point. That concern makes such a system a non-starter for me. I like the idea but think it would end up being more work than it's worth. My deck has a full roof, and the patio below the deck stays reasonably dry, except with a driving rain. A system like this can't keep my patio dry in such a situation. Nice video though. Well done to the author.
thanks for the video! Where did you buy this from? As their website seems terrible nothing is clear in terms of price size, how many comes etc...
Very nice 👍
Prior to me know about this stuff on my last deck I did a system using some strapping and vinyl siding. Worked well but I noticed over the years a build up a dirt and pin tree debris.
Cheers
How about capturing the water?
I would love to know they value that you’ve added to your home with all these projects. The one thing I wonder also is will it pay off because your neighbors may not be up to speed like you which changes market cost.
love it! How many hours does it take you to install?
Anyone add recessed lights and kept it sealed with this system?
Why not just install corrugated metal ceiling directly to the underside of the joists?
This was super helpful! I'm curious if the joist spacing was narrower for the double and triple joists and if you needed to decrease the width of the v channels. My deck has joist extensions that go from double joists to single so I expect that's going to be tricky. Thx!
where to order this kit ?
Great job and video
the way your head moves, i'm sure you have ancestors in India ! :P
does that mean my head moves fast haha?! Thanks so much for watching
@@BYOTools it’s the head bobbing !
Thank you for sharing🙏
Your going to have to do a TH-cam short when you get some heavy rain fall.
Wouldn't it be better if the system installed on top of the joists and kept the joists dry as well?
If you are building new that is the way to go. This is better suited for existing decks.
Where do you buy this?
Great idea :D
Great work!
So... Per square foot what's the price tag on that set up?
what happened to the comment with the simple solution/less engineered?
Trex Rain escape is another product to keep the space under your deck dry. It goes over your joists so must be installed before decking.
You did not do a good job explaining how sealed around the PVC pipe. Seems like you would have a leak around that also.
Joist get wet and water trapped between wood and plastic. Just use pond liner
If it was thought of before deck boards went down. Sometimes the owner is trying to retrofit an existing deck.
Any issues with wasps or hornets getting in there?
Very good energy. Needs to be directed to designs that will last.
Could you use like a flex seal spray-on instead of the tape to prevent moisture from getting under the vinyl brackets? Wouldn't spray-on give you a more reliable prevention?
You need to keep your fingers away from that blade 7:08
I would use this system in a heartbeat if the v panels were translucent! I would loose too much light.
It's cheaper and faster and more durable if you use sheet metal roofing just underneath
Got an example you can share?
Love it 🫶🏻
Ive watched this video and like the system but can't do install myself...(full time work, kid, house etc...) I called the local companies that sell and offer installation...Looking at $2400 (for my size deck) plus cost of install...😮😢
Amazing!
Thats a lot of work. I used corrugated metal and continuous gutter system with no seams. And a lot less money.
A video? I promise I will even like it.😅
@@samu3813 Same, I'd love to see that video
Tape on back of gutter would help direct it into the gutter
I guess when you live on Lake Washington you can afford a system like that...
Too rich for my blood...
I have a 12 x 26' elevated deck and went the cheap route, a 2 pack of Costco tarps and a handful of 2 x 8 x 12 pressure-treated and made 1x strips, did tapered blocking, I gave the tarp a very slight belly in between each stringer, and when it comes to Pineneedles all you have to do is reach up and swat it with your hand and keep hitting them all the way to the end...and I made a gutter system from 4" PVC cut in half lengthwise
Both ends of this tarp system are open so air passes through so no moisture problems whatsoever ...
I did this as kind of a joke/experiment but I did it nice and clean...3 years later and it looks just as good as the day I put it in .... those Costco tarps are tough as nails...
All of the pressure treated 1x strips and blocking I made show no signs of rot due to the pressure treated sealer that I put on them before I put them in place...
Check back in 10 years. Wishing your system good luck. Nice thinking outside the box.
@@samu3813 my system wasn't meant to be permanent, my temporary system and my permanent solution that I have recently completed is a fraction of the cost of the system in this video. And I'll get back to you in 20 years on the solution I've installed...Vinyl seems to get brittle in due time..
@-7205 if I am still here in 20 year, I will be happy to toss a beer or moonshine to your success🤣.
Is the paint on joists for waterproofing? Was tape put on the top edge on in side of joists, or is that supposed to carry water also? I have 17.5' between house and beam. Did I understand correctly that it comes in 16' lengths? This looks like it takes lots of time. Do the panels come in different widths? I have approximately 12" on center joists. I would love a response. My beam is 33' long. I appreciate your detailed descriptions. Great video!
In the time you took to ask all of your questions you could have googled your answers and learned that the v panels come in 12’ or 16’ sections in either 12” or 16” widths. He taped all of the top of his joists with a 1’ overhang over the side. Incredible amount of effort is put into the entire process as well as filming and editing footage so maybe next time consider a quick google search.
Great project, better when u dont hv to pay for materials.
Is it just me or doesn’t this prevent the deck from drying because there is no ventilation?
If you only used composites. This would be a disaster for a wooden deck boards.
awesome vid, too bad the company doesn't make this anymore :(
Au contraire, mon chere. I buy these all the time. Bought 3 kits just 3 weeks ago.
This kind of installation wil effectively make your deck rot faster.....
Yep. But some people can afford to tear out thier decks every 10 years.
System? Did it years ago with opaque polycarbonate with slight pitch. Cost me 100.00.
This is ridiculous.
This is nuts, never mind the dirt that will collect and eventually choke off the water run. If you need the bottom to be waterproof, why even install decking, install a real waterproof floor and outdoor tiling over it.
Nope. Don’t do this. Panting wood seals in moisture. Your deck will rot 10 times faster. Then slowing the water from draining faster is a recipe for disaster.
Not if you wait for the wood to dry out then paint every surface. My deck is painted and lasted 20 + years. I just repainted 6 years ago and the areas I primed and repainted was still solid. The issue with painting wood is allowing entry points. Cover it all or nothing at all.
Yikes. At 7:09, his fingers are millimeters away from that blade. th-cam.com/video/ObuFCtqLXRE/w-d-xo.html
Looks great but I absolutely hate that it’s white. I wish they made their product in black
get ready for bees nests by the hundreds. You'll never have a minute's peace. Whats worse is you won't even be able to get to them to wipe them out. Wouldn't do this at my house if it were free!
Water jets from above once in a while? And maybe insecticides?
❤️
Thanks for watching
👏👍💪🔥
Thanks for watching Alain.
No. We're all wondering why you just laid down on a wet deck.
This kit is ridiculously expensive. $1200 for 16ft and 6 joists so 6x16OC so 16x8’ that’s a tiny deck. I have a 15x20 so 3 kits at $3600. No thanks
clean that thing now
Too much work for me. I'll look for a different system.
OVER-E-NUNCCCC-I-A-TING
No this doesn't look right to me. The moisture has no easy way out of the space between the deck board and the plastic. This will largely shorten the life of the deck frame, unless you do a wonderful job on sealing the framing lumber.
If you are redoing the deck, just use the over deck system.
Or wait until you want to replace the boards, remove them and install the over deck system. Don't try to hurt your frame.
u really like laying down while talking to the camera. man you don't have to get down all the way to my feet, standing will do.
That’s gonna leak around the rim and ledger.
They discontinued for a reason.
I hate dry space
what a joke who cares about deck drainage
American homes are fragile,matchbox kinda stuff
So much work for nothing. You could just use roofing sheet. Faster, cheaper and more durable...
Sorry but you have a peaked cap on backwards
Peaked cap?