DIY Smart Kettle: Control with Home Assistant & Get Notified!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 พ.ย. 2024
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#diy #smart #Kettle #homeautomation #3dprinting #automation #esp32
Tearing apart unused chargers is 100% a valid strategy to make a power supply. When I harvest led elements from flame bulbs for larp torches, I absolutely keep the ac-dc circuitry for future projects.
9:36 - curious why you didn't print this the other way up - less support needed, and those nice faceted edges would have printed fine without support!
Software Improvement: Add a binary sensor on if the kettle is on the stand, and make sure minimum value of the water level is 0.
Hardware Improvement: Use a current sensor on the live wire to detect when the kettle is running, and use that to detect when it is finished, and if it’s been started remotely, but hasn’t started heating (such as when the kettle’s switch isn’t down).
I think for temp control you might need a glass or metal kettle, something that conducts heat to the outside better than plastic
Hello, I was thinking, have you heard about temperature feedback, where the temperature is measured directly on the heating element based on its resistance? This is how it works, for example, in soldering stations, and it could definitely be implemented in your project. The simplest way is to disconnect the power for a short moment and measure the resistance of the heating element.
heres an idea, use current sensing , the kettle knows when its done so all you need to know is when its stopped drawing power. :)
Automagically, love it!
27:00 Did you tried to check the if it boiling with the weight sensir? Because of the water moves maybe you can detect a pattern.
One more idea. If you measure the power consumsion of that circuit, than you can tell when is the kettle on and when it is off. That way you can also tell if the water is boiling or not.
0:55 actually it has secondary safety relay that opens when you run it dry, and heat up to certain degree :D
is that not just the 3core melting?
It's usually the same switch. The temperature sensor is located in the base, and is triggered by steam coming down a tube from the top of the kettle (that's why kettles typically don't shut off if the lid is open). Because it's in the base, if the kettle boils dry and overheats then it also trips by direct conduction.
@@cooperised That makes sense thank you.
Couldn't you have printed the lid upside down so you needed (almost) no supports? Also, tree supports save you a lot of support material, might be worth looking into :)
This is next level nerd sh!t... I LOVE IT
I would monitor the current when it drops off the kettle has turned off.
Excellent vidéo!
Run a temp sensor inside the kettle up through the handle, have a connector on the bottom for connection to the esp and key the kettle so it only fits in the base one way
NEXT PROJECT: TEABAG TREBUCHET (I will concede that a catapult might be better in this situation)
It's worth mentioning that there are many smart electric kettles already available for purchase, assumedly built and tested for food safe use. Tuya intigrated ones should be relatively easy to integrate into home assistant.
Only if you like having a cloud-connected kettle from a company with a history of screwing over the open source community. No thanks!
Interesting, have I been shadowbanned for daring to criticise a prominent shady IoT company? I can't see the comment I made about this...
No, you’ve not been Shadowband. TH-cam is just incredibly stupid with how it handles response comments.
Oh ok cool! I didn't think it would have been you who did it anyway, maybe an automatic thing based on keywords or perhaps bot brigades reporting the comment for some reason.
If you could monitor the power usage that would tell you that the kettle has stopped boiling when the power usage goes down.
I was wondering if you made a hinged plate to put the kettle on then you could use a single load cell across form the hinge., It wouldn't need to move much < 1mm ?
This is awesome and I've really enjoyed watching the progression of the project over on Patreon! Couple of thoughts:
1) you are right - infill IS wasteful - you can make your slicer use less by increasing the spacing in the infill settings (works great for interior surfaces that don't need to be as pretty!).
2) Could you use a vibration sensor to detect when the kettle is boiling? Boiling water is pretty violent and tends to shake the kettle quite a lot. It's less precise than temperature but could do the job.
I am not sure what slicer he uses, but prusa has an awsome tree like structure as support.
i love videos like this, get to learn something. I subscribed and thumbs up.
Thanks and welcome
10:00 you could've printed it upside down or if you needed to print like that just use organic/tree support
Why not monitor the current draw and average time required for the kettle to come to a boil to know when it's done instead of relying on a temp sensor at all? That way if current draw is above the threshold for x number of minutes, you can safely assume that the kettle is done boiling the water. Add a switchbot for the power toggle on the pot for extra points.
That's pretty neat! Could it work getting a temperature readout from above the spout, measuring the air escaping? 🤔
Why don't you detect current drawn to detect if it's boiled?
Since the kettle will turn itself off when boiled, the current will drop to 0A
Love the video mate, what 3d printer do you have there?
I have 2, the one on my desk is the Prusa MINI.
And the other one is an Ender 3 S1
What about a metal kettle? It should transfer the heat better
That might work I'll look into it for version two, I really just wanted to use what I had.
Another cool project 👍🏻😊
23:23 you could use the resistance of the kettle to mesure the temperature.
but for me in my house I will just put the kettle on a specific outlet and I will turn on when I want, the switch is electromecanic so I can turn on the kettle without power and give power when I want.
if you only want to know if the water is hot, why not use a power meter to know when the electric thermostat turn off?
I'm a chat gpt noob, would you mind explaining how you got the sensor scripts?
Using ChatGPT for programming help is like having a smart assistant by your side. You can ask it to explain coding concepts, help you write or debug code, and even suggest best practices. Just describe what you're trying to do or what problem you're facing, and ChatGPT will give you guidance, code snippets, or explanations. It's great for learning new programming languages, solving coding challenges, or getting unstuck when you're confused. Just start by asking a question or describing your issue, and ChatGPT will do its best to help!
you should of printed the base upside down...less support, maybe none
You can try to use a CT sensor to see if the water is boiled or not. But this still doesnt let you control the temperature.
You have to invert the logic of the buttons!
maybe add a vibration sensor -> when the water boils, there should be a certain vibration level
I’m not actually concerned about knowing when it boils, more about what temperature it’s at so I can stop it
Mouth based CTA? That's innovation!
The funny thing is, I always record the video first and then figure out where the best place for the call to action is 🤣🤣
The delay button could be programmed to take into account how much water there is in the kettle, so there will always be boiling water after 15 minutes no matter how much water is in there 🤔
Since you are OK with modding the kettle : Put an aluminum screw /bolt thru the kettle so you can get the heat transfer from the water to the outside better. Use sensor in front of the bolt, the less mass the better.
I love that my name is still on it 😂
automagically is a word
Temperature solution: laser temp sensor of the bottom plate.
1. Confirm you can sneak the laser somewhere within the body of
Drill 6 in the bottom of the kettle and 2 in the base. If so, measure the radius of the laser center to the base center.
2. Make a guide template of the diameter of the ketel base with 6 holes. 3 inner holes will be spaced out at 120° and 3 outer holes in-line with the inner holes. The outer guides will be for alignment and the inner is for laser pass throw.
3. Drill a hole single in the base with the guide in the location where the sensor fits. Mark out the outer 3 holes with a pen to help guide stabilizers remove the guide. Stabilizers can be printed then bonded, or mechanically connected from nuts, bolts, or screws. Hot glue may deform from radiant heat.
4. Use guild to locate a local with the kettle bottom with a clear line of sight to the boilerplate from the 3 inner holes and secure the guide before drilling. Drill out all 6 holes.
4. You should now have a kettle that retains its "dumb" functionalities but have gained internal access to the boilerplate in a safe, no-contact manner.
Extras:
- Using a dowel may help in keeping the guide in place while drilling or marking any secondary holes
- Kapton tape and or scape of Koawoll may help insulate the sensor from the heating element both for the board's health and data accuracy.
11:43 - I swear by my HOTO gluegun - USB C charging, and considerably smaller and easier to use than the ryobi style you have there
I’m looking through their range of product. It’s giving Apple vibes. Also, I don’t feel like spending £42 on a new hot glue gun. But if they sponsor me sure. 😂
@@Mellow_labsthey certainly have a “design” premium, but I swear by the glue gun - it’s super light - so much so it’s often in my bag for on the go fixes.
Their laser measure is also superb
Looks like the HOTO guns only take the little 7mm glue sticks? I dislike those things - they run out far too fast and they're more expensive weight for weight. If they did a full size one, I'd be interested...
How is the recovery from the birthday shenanigans?
Maybe you can use the xiaomi kettle!
Do you know you can buy a wifi kettle that integrates with HA, I have one. Works well and has dry protection. Thanks for great video.
Thanks for the tip!
Use time and weight of water to calculate temperature ;)
If you know the amount of water you have, base temp should be the same as long as you use cold tap water and then you know how much the kettle draws in watt.
If you want to go more stone-age. Take a timer and measure time it takes to boil for each amount of cups. Make sure to let the kettle cook down before next measurement. Note that this only works with an already cool kettle which is what it probably is in most cases.
The main safety is already built in to the kettle itself. 👍🏻
I think i have a solution for the temp.
There's a magic switch on the side of the kettle that switches off automatically when it reaches temp.🤯🤯 Who knew..
😂😂😂
I don’t think you understand the point of this channel 🤯🤯
Please make a smart plant pot. You can use the load sensor to detect if the plant needs some water.
There are much better ways of detecting soil moisture (capacitive sensor being the best overall). Load cells would need regular recalibration as the plant grew and got heavier!
That's true, but they only measure in one spot and are not nice to look at. The load sensor could be hidden under the pot. Just my thought. Maybe there are better ways. I would love to see a mellow engineered version.
Did I really watch all of this? Dance stupid ... dance stupid ... dance stupid ... hope my brain does not hurt.
You need to calibrate the zero levvel of your weight sensors regularly since this will change over time. Best way to do this is to detect that the kettle is removed from the plate and set that as a zero point.
By the way: a "smart" kettle would turn on as soon as you put the kettle back on the plate with a certain minimal amount of water in it. Unless you programmed it in advance to do something different
Now that's a great cup of tea... like someone peed on my tongue
Brother, WOT?
If you control the relay for switching the kettle on, shouldn't you be able to know when it's off again hence boiled ? / the kettle 99% bimetal "technology". If it gets hot, it bends, opening the circuit. Tap into that ?
Video Conversation for Fahrenheit:
Sensor planning:
100° C = 212° F (water boiling point any temperature higher than this the water is gone)
Sensor testing:
32° C = 89.6° F (tapped his finger on the Sensor, average human body 37° C / 98.6 F; given the quick tap the cooler temp is expected)
36° C = 96.8° F (The gaping void of his mouth. As the Sensor isn't under the tongue the ambient air would give a lower temp)