I was so sure you get shocked by the live wires any second. But you didn't. I got shocked so many times I stopped doing that. Funny video. I love your style
Nice! So what did you see in the light switch that you decided to put the relay next to the lamp? I would just do this with a sonoff or shelly relay, much simpler
Establishing a direct link between the sensor and the bulb light ESPs via ESP-Now would make them so much more reactive (almost instantaneous). The 4 seconds delay you're experiencing is very likely a combination between (bad) WiFi lag added with Home Assistant processing time. ESP-Now would allow your 2 devices to 'talk' to each other directly (without being connected to your WiFi rooter although they can be if you feel the need for it) Downside : no fancy quick flashing with ESP-Home, to use ESP-Now you'll have to write the code.
try facing the sensor toward the door or have it ceiling mounted, I went with ceiling mounted, works so well it can sense me outside the door as I enter the light is already on
If you don't need too much range (and you definitely don't need much in the bathroom) you could also put the sensor in a cupboard. The mmWave signals easily pass through a bit of wood, my sensors easily detect me if I'm standing at the other side of the door
I've been wanting to build a presence sensor and this would be a good way to make my bathroom light/extractor fan smart. I fancy adding a PIR, or maybe just moving one of my Aqara motion sensors to get an instant trigger. Thanks for the video, it's inspired me to have a go.
Doing exactly Ideas that I'd like to do myself. Have you considered placing ESP in switch box (light, boiler, heater) for bathroom? That way you can automate bathroom heater, as well as boiler (usually in EU its in bathroom)? Are normal aliexpress relays good enough for that? It'd be good enough project tbh
The weird bouncing issue is caused because the power supply has no load when the LED is disconnected and the constant current feedback loop in the supply output is not able to adjust appropriately. Basically you have an unlimited current supply (well within the limits of the supply) driving a newly connected LED load. The flash duration you see is the time it takes for the supply to stabilize. So you made the right choice to switch the power going into the supply. It will make the LEDs and supply last much longer.
Good video. lol Cool you used the exact same power converter to do this that i did when i converted my dumb bathroom extractor fan switch to a smart one. I also added a bme280 to mine as well so the fan goes on/off when the humidity from taking a shower rises and then falls. But this is a good way to do a light. :) Also added a vl53lox time 0f flight sensor and aimed it across the toiled seat so the fan turns on when you set down on the seat and off when you get off of it. Also sprays my modified glade air freshener as well.
Haaaa, I bet that bump was the LED driver that had gone into "open circuit protection", and kept retrying to apply voltage in short pulses, or hiccups. We were witnessing the first one or two successful power-up attempts before it fully recovered. Probably it can't cope well with the LEDs not being connected, or fails that way on purpose as some kind of safety feature.
@@coreymartin9630 it's a different kind of protection, open circuit is when leds are disconnected or no longer conduct (often due to led failure), it prevents the voltage rising too high, which could fry other components or pose other risks
Nice, I use a similar system for all my house lights. You could consider connecting the mmWave sensor within the light itself and directly to the esp controlling the relay, which I think would decrease the latency considerably.
Actually, the latency was a configuration issue. I’ve managed to get it down to less than a second now. But the main reason I didn’t put it in the light is because of the environmental sensor it would be useless up there.
I wanted a cry when I see how the guy is testing & playing with the voltage and hot-gluing the stuff. Hope it's not going to catch a fire once. Considering the fact the electricity is #1 fire reason. I'm crossing fingers for you.
@@Mellow_labs And there was me thinking all the time that it was a fancy camera thing, while wondering why we never saw any close-up video sequences from it 😄
How about putting this presence sensor on a ceiling near the lamp? It has limited angle (probably like 100 degrees), so this might also be causing delay. It just take time from entering the room, before you get seen by a sensor. That would also help with wires. You could even try to put it inside the lamp, but in this case, environmental sensor would make no sense :) PS. If you are switching AC, you could look at SSR relay. They are super quiet :) PPS. You can now put esp8266 (seriously, esp32 you are using for these projects is an overkill) behind the light switch, powered from light circuit, and switch (ideally momentary) would connect two pins on esp (maybe through resistor or pull-up pin) and control the light (or something else)
It's really funny you should say that, I run 3 thumbnails for AB testing For every new video. The ai ones even though I don't like them, get the highest clickthrough rate. It annoys me too.
@@DocZippit You can usually see them over on www.viewstats.com/@mellow_labs/videos But it hasn't updated yet. It Also shows you other youtubers Thumbnail variations.
You can mark the fault esp s with a red sharpie or any color really Lmao the waiting..... halway bit was fun, but auto focus was throwing it for me. perhaps play with zoom angles to make the scene more engaging while we're watching the waiting. makes the visual more entertaining, like the b roll right afterwards
I absolutely hate those relais with the pull resistor to the wrong side... And why nog place the sensor on the ceiling next to the light? You could use a single ESP and a single power supply :) And really, you used a wago to go from a terminal to a Wago again :p
I do really like your videos, but I absolutely hate the AI thumbnails, I wish you wouldn't use them. I think many people would agree. Nevertheless, never stop making content!
There is another commentator that pointed this out, and I agree they are awful. But I do AB testing for all of my new videos. Where I test two thumbnails that I have made and one ai thumbnail. And unfortunately, the AI ones get higher click through rates. I also don’t really like them. Which is why after about a week I make one of my own ones the default.
GPT was just for a joke. I did actually ask my electrical engineer friend. The reason I didn’t use the LED power supply. Is the same reason I had to move the relay from disconnecting the LEDs to disconnecting the power supply. The power supply just isn’t designed for that kind of continuous operation. It would work for short term, but after a while it might start having issues.
I'm just watching all the time hawe question why? Forget wifi sensors and relays in smart home. You can only use them if you have no other wifi networks around. And your router can handle such many devices. Router has to be very expensive, in other words. Just use zigbee and cheap chinese sensors like tuya or similar...
Then don’t click it, just wait until one of the other 2 shows up. By clicking it, you just increasing the click rate for this thumbnail. Which makes TH-cam think it’s more popular and then shows it to more people.
The second looks neater @@Mellow_labs. You could probably do better with a bit of soldering flux every now and then, especially when soldering in reused electronics
I solder with the wires through the holes on my Wemos D1 Mini’s instead of soldering on the top. Even better use a D1 mini shield to solder to so you can replace a failed D1 mini but not have to solder again.
I was so sure you get shocked by the live wires any second. But you didn't. I got shocked so many times I stopped doing that. Funny video. I love your style
Nice! So what did you see in the light switch that you decided to put the relay next to the lamp? I would just do this with a sonoff or shelly relay, much simpler
Yes, that would infect me simply. But where is the fun in that
When possible it's always better to make the light switch smart instead of the light.
That way you can still use the switch.
You could try using a "normal" motion sensor which are often faster combined with the mmWave sensor to reduce the reaction time.
Establishing a direct link between the sensor and the bulb light ESPs via ESP-Now would make them so much more reactive (almost instantaneous). The 4 seconds delay you're experiencing is very likely a combination between (bad) WiFi lag added with Home Assistant processing time.
ESP-Now would allow your 2 devices to 'talk' to each other directly (without being connected to your WiFi rooter although they can be if you feel the need for it)
Downside : no fancy quick flashing with ESP-Home, to use ESP-Now you'll have to write the code.
Actually, it was neither of those things. It was just bad sense configuration. I put it down to less than one second now
@@Mellow_labs all right, glad it works better now. At least good enough to not be trolled by your flatmate ;)
Too bad that ESP-Now support is still pretty crappy with both ESPHome and Tasmota... but that would be amazing if it was used!
Could you explain the fix that got the response tome down, please?@Mellow_labs
But ESPnow prevents the WiFi connection that is useful for smart home control. Maybe a direct Bluetooth connection, for instance.
try facing the sensor toward the door or have it ceiling mounted, I went with ceiling mounted, works so well it can sense me outside the door as I enter the light is already on
The glue comment was gold! :D
Now I'm glad you enjoyed :D
How long before the moisture will kill the esp?
I wonder how many ESPs you have running in your place, going through them might be a fun video to do
Great video mate!
Thanks a lot!
If you don't need too much range (and you definitely don't need much in the bathroom) you could also put the sensor in a cupboard. The mmWave signals easily pass through a bit of wood, my sensors easily detect me if I'm standing at the other side of the door
I've been wanting to build a presence sensor and this would be a good way to make my bathroom light/extractor fan smart. I fancy adding a PIR, or maybe just moving one of my Aqara motion sensors to get an instant trigger. Thanks for the video, it's inspired me to have a go.
Doing exactly Ideas that I'd like to do myself. Have you considered placing ESP in switch box (light, boiler, heater) for bathroom? That way you can automate bathroom heater, as well as boiler (usually in EU its in bathroom)? Are normal aliexpress relays good enough for that? It'd be good enough project tbh
The weird bouncing issue is caused because the power supply has no load when the LED is disconnected and the constant current feedback loop in the supply output is not able to adjust appropriately. Basically you have an unlimited current supply (well within the limits of the supply) driving a newly connected LED load. The flash duration you see is the time it takes for the supply to stabilize. So you made the right choice to switch the power going into the supply. It will make the LEDs and supply last much longer.
Good video. lol Cool you used the exact same power converter to do this that i did when i converted my dumb bathroom extractor fan switch to a smart one. I also added a bme280 to mine as well so the fan goes on/off when the humidity from taking a shower rises and then falls. But this is a good way to do a light. :) Also added a vl53lox time 0f flight sensor and aimed it across the toiled seat so the fan turns on when you set down on the seat and off when you get off of it. Also sprays my modified glade air freshener as well.
Haaaa, I bet that bump was the LED driver that had gone into "open circuit protection", and kept retrying to apply voltage in short pulses, or hiccups. We were witnessing the first one or two successful power-up attempts before it fully recovered. Probably it can't cope well with the LEDs not being connected, or fails that way on purpose as some kind of safety feature.
Did you mean short circuit protection?
@@coreymartin9630 it's a different kind of protection, open circuit is when leds are disconnected or no longer conduct (often due to led failure), it prevents the voltage rising too high, which could fry other components or pose other risks
I was hoping for the Compiling Dance!
Nice, I use a similar system for all my house lights. You could consider connecting the mmWave sensor within the light itself and directly to the esp controlling the relay, which I think would decrease the latency considerably.
Actually, the latency was a configuration issue. I’ve managed to get it down to less than a second now. But the main reason I didn’t put it in the light is because of the environmental sensor it would be useless up there.
Ahh glad you managed to sort that out. I find my mmWave sensors can ‘see’ through most materials including plasterboard, wood and plastic though.
I wanted a cry when I see how the guy is testing & playing with the voltage and hot-gluing the stuff. Hope it's not going to catch a fire once. Considering the fact the electricity is #1 fire reason. I'm crossing fingers for you.
Add a PIR sensor to have a faster activation time and the mmWave sensor keeps the light on
Actually, I got the activation time down to less than a second so doesn’t really need it. It was just a configuration issue I had.
What's that thing on your spectacle? Is that a microphone? Make/Model?
It’s a microphone I don’t think they make it anymore. It’s a Hollyland M1.
@@Mellow_labs And there was me thinking all the time that it was a fancy camera thing, while wondering why we never saw any close-up video sequences from it 😄
How about putting this presence sensor on a ceiling near the lamp? It has limited angle (probably like 100 degrees), so this might also be causing delay. It just take time from entering the room, before you get seen by a sensor. That would also help with wires. You could even try to put it inside the lamp, but in this case, environmental sensor would make no sense :)
PS. If you are switching AC, you could look at SSR relay. They are super quiet :)
PPS. You can now put esp8266 (seriously, esp32 you are using for these projects is an overkill) behind the light switch, powered from light circuit, and switch (ideally momentary) would connect two pins on esp (maybe through resistor or pull-up pin) and control the light (or something else)
I really don't think the AI thumbnails are helping you, they're not appealing at all.
It's really funny you should say that, I run 3 thumbnails for AB testing For every new video. The ai ones even though I don't like them, get the highest clickthrough rate. It annoys me too.
@@Mellow_labs I was actually waiting for a different thumbnail to appear but it didn't show me :(
@@DocZippit You can usually see them over on www.viewstats.com/@mellow_labs/videos But it hasn't updated yet. It Also shows you other youtubers Thumbnail variations.
Also don't like them cause they make me think I accidentally subbed a content farm until I see the Mellow Labs name.
You can mark the fault esp s with a red sharpie or any color really
Lmao the waiting..... halway bit was fun, but auto focus was throwing it for me. perhaps play with zoom angles to make the scene more engaging while we're watching the waiting. makes the visual more entertaining, like the b roll right afterwards
I absolutely hate those relais with the pull resistor to the wrong side...
And why nog place the sensor on the ceiling next to the light? You could use a single ESP and a single power supply :)
And really, you used a wago to go from a terminal to a Wago again :p
Hope that light has a decent IP rating for the bathroom moisture
Excuse me, good sir. I will choose which noodles I doodle and when, thank you very much. 😤
I do really like your videos, but I absolutely hate the AI thumbnails, I wish you wouldn't use them. I think many people would agree. Nevertheless, never stop making content!
There is another commentator that pointed this out, and I agree they are awful. But I do AB testing for all of my new videos. Where I test two thumbnails that I have made and one ai thumbnail. And unfortunately, the AI ones get higher click through rates. I also don’t really like them. Which is why after about a week I make one of my own ones the default.
Next… rgb that mofo for poop time mood lighting!
It'd actually be really neat if some sensor could analyze the poop and give you a red, amber, or green light for the quality.
0:26
Did you forget about the switch? Probably get a zigbee ikea button and put it in there instead, that's what I do at least.
the ai thumbnail says "hemperature" in the list of things controlled
3:05 the reveal that the "real electrical engineer" was actually the ChatGPT app was gold
The ai thumbnails are just horrible
So cool idea...
You should hav a light setting for night time..
relay hot, psu hot😅 hot glue... uhm should stay cold
That explains why they started peeling off 😂😂
WHY did the Real Electrical Engineer (gpt) at you shouldn't??
GPT was just for a joke. I did actually ask my electrical engineer friend. The reason I didn’t use the LED power supply. Is the same reason I had to move the relay from disconnecting the LEDs to disconnecting the power supply. The power supply just isn’t designed for that kind of continuous operation. It would work for short term, but after a while it might start having issues.
@Mellow_labs oh interesting! The ps doesn't look like supplying small currents for long periods? Why? Low efficiency?
I'm just watching all the time hawe question why? Forget wifi sensors and relays in smart home. You can only use them if you have no other wifi networks around. And your router can handle such many devices. Router has to be very expensive, in other words. Just use zigbee and cheap chinese sensors like tuya or similar...
‘Ew lightswitch, cringe’ 😆
stop... please... I'm begging you stop using ai generated images as thumbnail.
Then don’t click it, just wait until one of the other 2 shows up. By clicking it, you just increasing the click rate for this thumbnail.
Which makes TH-cam think it’s more popular and then shows it to more people.
@@Mellow_labs it seems like thw ai one is dominant. I didn't get any other thumbnail
Actually, the Ai is second most popular.
@@okolol www.viewstats.com/@mellow_labs/videos/JRKy7IdahmU Here you can see the other options
@@Mellow_labs well then, I just have to wait until the forst or the third one showed up ig
I find your soldering offensive.
The first or the second montage?
The second looks neater @@Mellow_labs. You could probably do better with a bit of soldering flux every now and then, especially when soldering in reused electronics
Do you think they were both done by the same person?
I solder with the wires through the holes on my Wemos D1 Mini’s instead of soldering on the top. Even better use a D1 mini shield to solder to so you can replace a failed D1 mini but not have to solder again.
It takes only one second to turn on the light manually
Think of all the time I'm saving And energy, No longer do I have to move my hand up to a switch. At this rate, I will be a vegetable in no time!
Think about the time you're doing your business and the light turned off due to no human presence detected
I automated my bathroom light as well. The main reason is that I otherwise forget to turn them off and they'd stay on all day. Kitchen same.
The call being ChatGPT
Don't like the thumbnails.
what ones?