Thank you for making this video! After my F-150 abruptly downshifted from 6th gear into 1st gear, I took my F-150 to the Ford dealership & after a week they told me I needed a new motor & possibly a new transmission. They had no clue what was wrong with it or were unwilling to fix it even though Ford had issued a nationwide safety recall for this issue. I wish I had a reliable knowledgeable person like yourself nearby. Thanks again!
Man I appreciate you making this video I took my 2011 F150 to a local shop and asked how much to change my leadframe he immediately told me he had to rebuild the transmission and it would run me 1800 to 2500 dollars I told him I had research the problem and everyone who had the same symptoms it was the leadframe. So thanks a lot I’m gonna change my lead frame tomorrow picked on up today
Same here, I paid 2 weeks ago for a rebuild and it never stayed right. They blamed everything but transmission. Long story short its in the shop right now and I found a lead frame local thank god. Crossing fingers 🤞
Thank you. I just bought a used 12 for myself, and love the truck, but dont love this problem. Was 30/70 whether I wanted to takle the job myself, but now I'm 100% Thank you again!!!
Great vid. Very detailed. I hate fluid and oil dripping on me , know your pain. My 2013 has started the P0720 w/ check engine light and wrench. Not looking forward to the job. Thanks for vid
I just had the lead frame replaced on my 2016 at the dealership. The service advisor tried to explain what they did but I don't think he even knows what a transmission is as he pronounced it "led" frame lol. So thank you for clearing showing what was actually replaced on my truck. Next time I will do it myself as it is definitely something I can handle with my mechanical abilities.
Working on a 2010 f150 w a floor shifter won’t go all the way into park, when I manually put it in park underneath the shifter is stuck in park my first hunch is the cable, it doesn’t extend all the way down but deep diving I’ve found could be the shift interlock solenoid, brake light solenoid, the shifter itself and now this lol I’ve manually reset it to take a look and took apart the shifter to see what’s going on, I have it responding w the brake for now so maybe I can eliminate the shift lock solenoid but I’m stuck where to continue my diagnoses I put the shifter into D, engine off Manually put the transmission into D The cable and shifter don’t line up Turning back on the vehicle Resetting to Park, they don’t match up again I’m gonna try the fix for a new cable in case it’s stretched I think
Replaced this part warmed it up got the fluids right, put it into reverse and all the gears are neutral would it be those 6 solenoids on the valve body?
Hey man thanks for this awesome video. I’m thinking I need to replace my valve body on my 16 f150 5.0 ;97k miles, 6r80. I’m having intermittent shifting issues particular at faster speeds on highway.sometime when I press on gas to go faster tranny gets stuck in lower gear and the only way to get it back to normal is to let off the gas and cycle back through gears. Anyway was hoping for some insight if you think that could be the problem and also if I change this part will I have to do any programming or reflashing of anytype? Im replacing the entire valve body and lead frame. Thanks!!!!!
I’ve never had to reprogram/reflash the computer but I do usually reset the adaptive learn and shift points. As far as if that’s your problem I’m not sure, if you have access to a scan tool I’d drive it while watching what gears it’s calling for so you know if it’s calling for that gear or if it’s a hydraulic issue.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 thanks for the quick reply man! So if it’s not calling for the gears to change most likely it can be the valve body and or lead frame, correct? If it is calling for the gears to change and it’s not, then it would be something more involved? Thanks so much
Apparently the area we are stuck on is the installation part that made you mad and skipped. That valve we had to figure out and the linkage between the shifter lever and the valve body comes apart when we try and run the truck. Had to pull the pan off again, trying to figure it out for the 2nd time now... we will see.
Hello sir I hope you can answer my questions I took my truck for the recall lead frame speed sensor . in 2019 . now I have the problem you think they will fix it again
I have had an erratic shift for several months 2017 6r80. Everything points to the OSS throwing a fit. Is it wise to replace the leadframe(with new valve body, as the leadframe alone is usually unavailable) altogether, or could the sensor alone be swapped? Having trouble finding a part number for the 6r80 OSS. Rock auto seems to only have 10r80 sensor available.
The transmission in my 2013 Mustang with a V6 Automatic is having that same issues. All I hear about is the F 150. What about the mustangs? They aren’t part of the recall?
I think this may be part of my problem I’m having w my 2012 f150 eco boost 3.5 ( K.R ) it’s not wanting to shift out of low I’ve changed the transfer case motor it is also not showing correct speed says it’s doing 70 at 20 mph ( rough estimate)it feels like it is in a 4x4 with low rpm low gear whine but shows at 2x4 on dash transmission also shifting hard into gear I have been experiencing the notorious down shift issue I’m hoping by replacing this I could solve some of these issues do you think I’m going down the right path my next move would be replacing iwe and tubes? Idk help please
That sounds like something in the transfer case or associated computer…if it’s all something that happened at once for no reason I might look for common grounds but you might have to have that properly diagnosed at a shop.
Thank you for making it make sense. My 3.5 EcoBoost gave me the "Rench " from hell displayed so I pulled over thinking oh, no problem i'll just turn off then on the truck then it may reset. Nope. the truck won't even crank. I checked for codes and the PO706 & PO707 came up. had to get the trucked towed. I'm assuming the "no crank" is normal and nothing I can do till the Leadframe is replaced. thanks for any comments or suggestions.
Those codes are for the range sensor, check your wiring and connections at the trans but that sensor is part of it and won’t start because it doesn’t know what gear it’s in.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 Great, I'm assuming the connection is the one you show at the "4:23" mark of your video. Is there any other connection other than that one? or just trace that one on both ends. thanks
@@Perry-cl2ne I’m pretty sure that’s the only one, they put everything in that one frame so it all has to go through that connection, fluid leaking through the connector can cause issues as well
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 last question, does the connector wiring get powered by any fuses? i'll be looking at the connector this weekend. thanks again for everything.
@@Perry-cl2ne I would have to look at the wiring diagram but most of those wires will be to the computer, power will likely be relay controlled with switched grounds to the solenoids, sensors will be direct to the computer
Debating weather my valve body or lead frame is bad , will downshift hard from 5th to 4th only but only when it stays in 5th gear for a while I guess when it builds pressure, on 6th gear overdrive it seems like it looses pressure while driving almost feels like it down shifts but it’s not shifting it stays on 6th gear
I just replaced the lead frame and had the recall sw update done by dealer. After doing the lead frame the transmission is slipping bad now. Everything went back together as expected but I didn’t put the transfer tubes in the trans I left it on the valve body. Could that be why? Only drove it a few times before doing this repair and it didn’t happen before. 250k miles on it
Noises are something that have to be diagnosed in person, it can be narrowed down but not pinpointed…I do know they have a lot of timing chain problems that rattled on startup, if that used to be a problem and now it sounds like that all the time then it needs addressed soon.
Can anyone help me... Just had the lead frame done yesterday.. it's still doing the same shit... Do you have to do the flash update, when it's done? Someone said something about a flash update to me.. thanks
I’ve never had to flash after this repair, if it’s still doing the same thing then I would assume it’s an internal transmission fault, that or a connector issue
So I replaced it on my 2013 F150 a couple days ago. Followed step by step and topped off the fluid, but the transmission no longer allows reverse. Any ideas what may have caused this?
@@swishyboi7444 I would assume something like debris might have gotten in during installation, improperly installed valve body, or something like that.
Just replace my lead frame. Im 99% sure I put everything back right but now the truck isn’t starting. All I get is one click from passenger floorboard area. Battery is good. Any ideas?
Did you have the battery unhooked, this sounds like the starter is engaging but not cranking. That leadframe has the PRNDL in it but I assume it’s good because it’s clicking. Check for power at the main cable at the starter.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 I did not unhook the battery. It is not showing what gear it is in. Ill go check power to the starter and get back to you. Thanks
@@garrettgilstrap7509 if it’s not showing what gear it’s in then it won’t start, if I remember right most of those fords have dual solenoids to the starter so it might be engaging one and not the other, try unplugging your trans connector and inspect the pins to make sure one didn’t get folded
I've herd that the Gen 2 they took out the spring for the bypass valve or something to fix an issue or the got rid of it. Could you explain that please
I haven’t been in to one of those yet, I research as needed as we are an independent shop. I have a feeling I’ll be getting into more of them as another shop has been farming work to us for years and told us today they lost their senior tech and would be bringing all higher end diagnostic work to us.
Another video I watched the guy used a little compressed air through the fill hole to release the vacuum before dropping the pan and it drained instantly for him
Thank you for making this video! After my F-150 abruptly downshifted from 6th gear into 1st gear, I took my F-150 to the Ford dealership & after a week they told me I needed a new motor & possibly a new transmission. They had no clue what was wrong with it or were unwilling to fix it even though Ford had issued a nationwide safety recall for this issue. I wish I had a reliable knowledgeable person like yourself nearby. Thanks again!
Why are dealers always acting like a ignorant slobs why
Man I appreciate you making this video I took my 2011 F150 to a local shop and asked how much to change my leadframe he immediately told me he had to rebuild the transmission and it would run me 1800 to 2500 dollars I told him I had research the problem and everyone who had the same symptoms it was the leadframe. So thanks a lot I’m gonna change my lead frame tomorrow picked on up today
Where did you find one. I’m in the same boat.
@@kozmorulz83 There are plenty on ebay, but you most likely won't find an oem part because they no longer make them.
Same here, I paid 2 weeks ago for a rebuild and it never stayed right. They blamed everything but transmission. Long story short its in the shop right now and I found a lead frame local thank god. Crossing fingers 🤞
Thank you. I just bought a used 12 for myself, and love the truck, but dont love this problem. Was 30/70 whether I wanted to takle the job myself, but now I'm 100% Thank you again!!!
You are an awesome mechanic! Thanks for the video.
Great vid. Very detailed. I hate fluid and oil dripping on me , know your pain.
My 2013 has started the P0720 w/ check engine light and wrench.
Not looking forward to the job.
Thanks for vid
I just had the lead frame replaced on my 2016 at the dealership. The service advisor tried to explain what they did but I don't think he even knows what a transmission is as he pronounced it "led" frame lol. So thank you for clearing showing what was actually replaced on my truck. Next time I will do it myself as it is definitely something I can handle with my mechanical abilities.
Great video, simplified. Love it
great video, I paid 1700 for the dealer to swap this out, I wish I came across this sooner.
Dealers always praying on us. Dealers should be always last resort
That is insane brother!!!
It’s insanely expensive to boot.
Working on a 2010 f150 w a floor shifter won’t go all the way into park, when I manually put it in park underneath the shifter is stuck in park
my first hunch is the cable, it doesn’t extend all the way down but deep diving I’ve found could be the shift interlock solenoid, brake light solenoid, the shifter itself and now this lol
I’ve manually reset it to take a look and took apart the shifter to see what’s going on, I have it responding w the brake for now so maybe I can eliminate the shift lock solenoid but I’m stuck where to continue my diagnoses
I put the shifter into D, engine off
Manually put the transmission into D
The cable and shifter don’t line up
Turning back on the vehicle Resetting to Park, they don’t match up again
I’m gonna try the fix for a new cable in case it’s stretched I think
Replaced this part warmed it up got the fluids right, put it into reverse and all the gears are neutral would it be those 6 solenoids on the valve body?
Probably missed the manual shift valve while putting the valve body back up
Hey man thanks for this awesome video. I’m thinking I need to replace my valve body on my 16 f150 5.0 ;97k miles, 6r80. I’m having intermittent shifting issues particular at faster speeds on highway.sometime when I press on gas to go faster tranny gets stuck in lower gear and the only way to get it back to normal is to let off the gas and cycle back through gears. Anyway was hoping for some insight if you think that could be the problem and also if I change this part will I have to do any programming or reflashing of anytype? Im replacing the entire valve body and lead frame. Thanks!!!!!
I’ve never had to reprogram/reflash the computer but I do usually reset the adaptive learn and shift points. As far as if that’s your problem I’m not sure, if you have access to a scan tool I’d drive it while watching what gears it’s calling for so you know if it’s calling for that gear or if it’s a hydraulic issue.
If I remember right that’s what the issue was with this one, it had a bad speed sensor in that leadframe and was throwing a related code.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 thanks for the quick reply man! So if it’s not calling for the gears to change most likely it can be the valve body and or lead frame, correct? If it is calling for the gears to change and it’s not, then it would be something more involved? Thanks so much
@@andrewshah10 more or less yes, never had to replace a valve body on one of those, more likely something in that leadframe or shift solenoid.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387
was that code P0706 (TRS)?
Apparently the area we are stuck on is the installation part that made you mad and skipped. That valve we had to figure out and the linkage between the shifter lever and the valve body comes apart when we try and run the truck. Had to pull the pan off again, trying to figure it out for the 2nd time now... we will see.
I was having trouble keeping that spring loaded valve up in the case while putting the valve body up and lining it up with the manual valve.
I put a glob of trans-assembly freeze on the thermal sensor and it held it in the valve body .
Trans assembly grease/lube
this is amazing. this is the video i needed. your a savior.
Hello sir I hope you can answer my questions I took my truck for the recall lead frame speed sensor . in 2019 . now I have the problem you think they will fix it again
Not under recall, and the dealer usually doesn’t offer any warranty past 1 year
I have had an erratic shift for several months 2017 6r80. Everything points to the OSS throwing a fit. Is it wise to replace the leadframe(with new valve body, as the leadframe alone is usually unavailable) altogether, or could the sensor alone be swapped? Having trouble finding a part number for the 6r80 OSS. Rock auto seems to only have 10r80 sensor available.
On most of those parts we source only from the dealer, I haven’t had a 17 in with a 6r80 in, I’ve only seen them in the older ones, early teens.
The transmission in my 2013 Mustang with a V6 Automatic is having that same issues.
All I hear about is the F 150. What about the mustangs? They aren’t part of the recall?
No recall on this to my knowledge, haven’t heard of the mustangs doing this yet
They have a recall on it... But you have to have under a certain amount of miles
I think this may be part of my problem I’m having w my 2012 f150 eco boost 3.5 ( K.R ) it’s not wanting to shift out of low I’ve changed the transfer case motor it is also not showing correct speed says it’s doing 70 at 20 mph ( rough estimate)it feels like it is in a 4x4 with low rpm low gear whine but shows at 2x4 on dash transmission also shifting hard into gear I have been experiencing the notorious down shift issue I’m hoping by replacing this I could solve some of these issues do you think I’m going down the right path my next move would be replacing iwe and tubes? Idk help please
That sounds like something in the transfer case or associated computer…if it’s all something that happened at once for no reason I might look for common grounds but you might have to have that properly diagnosed at a shop.
The transfer case motor wasn’t properly indexed fixed $300
Thank you for making it make sense. My 3.5 EcoBoost gave me the "Rench " from hell displayed so I pulled over thinking oh, no problem i'll just turn off then on the truck then it may reset. Nope. the truck won't even crank. I checked for codes and the PO706 & PO707 came up. had to get the trucked towed. I'm assuming the "no crank" is normal and nothing I can do till the Leadframe is replaced. thanks for any comments or suggestions.
Those codes are for the range sensor, check your wiring and connections at the trans but that sensor is part of it and won’t start because it doesn’t know what gear it’s in.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 Great, I'm assuming the connection is the one you show at the "4:23" mark of your video. Is there any other connection other than that one? or just trace that one on both ends. thanks
@@Perry-cl2ne I’m pretty sure that’s the only one, they put everything in that one frame so it all has to go through that connection, fluid leaking through the connector can cause issues as well
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 last question, does the connector wiring get powered by any fuses? i'll be looking at the connector this weekend. thanks again for everything.
@@Perry-cl2ne I would have to look at the wiring diagram but most of those wires will be to the computer, power will likely be relay controlled with switched grounds to the solenoids, sensors will be direct to the computer
Debating weather my valve body or lead frame is bad , will downshift hard from 5th to 4th only but only when it stays in 5th gear for a while I guess when it builds pressure, on 6th gear overdrive it seems like it looses pressure while driving almost feels like it down shifts but it’s not shifting it stays on 6th gear
Need to have it on a scan tool and see what the pressures are doing
I just replaced the lead frame and had the recall sw update done by dealer. After doing the lead frame the transmission is slipping bad now. Everything went back together as expected but I didn’t put the transfer tubes in the trans I left it on the valve body. Could that be why? Only drove it a few times before doing this repair and it didn’t happen before. 250k miles on it
Very possible, those tubes act as a seal
How do I get another one of the rubber hoses on the valve body? I lost one.
That would be dealer only
Hey boss what size are the bolts that hold the valve body in place I stripped one and I can't find a replacement anywhere.
I don’t know off the top of my head, but I think there are three different lengths
Does the sensor need to bd programmed after install
No
Hello, greetings, my 2012 3.5 truck has a knock when I park, sometimes it knocks a lot in first gear, do you know what I need to change?
Noises are something that have to be diagnosed in person, it can be narrowed down but not pinpointed…I do know they have a lot of timing chain problems that rattled on startup, if that used to be a problem and now it sounds like that all the time then it needs addressed soon.
Is the neutral safety switch part of that leadframe?
Yes
My 2010 Ford f150 fx4 5.4l it was shifting hard when I’d pull to stop and now the truck just revs high but won’t move well this fix my problem
Very doubtful, need to check the fluid level and look for a big leak
We’ll do thank you for the reply
How do you know when the lead frame needs to be replaced?
All that I’ve changed have had to do with internal sensor issues, shorted or open sensors
The only parts i can find are Dorman or refurbished. Would you try either of those or wait for Ford?
I wouldn’t trust dorman on this, I would wait on ford unfortunately.
No order factory only or you will be doing it twice.
Hey where did you get your part at ?
Ford dealer, had to wait four months, they were that far behind
What is the socket size to get the valve body and lead frame out?
I don’t remember, I always just grab my whole set, I’ve never paid attention to what number torx I was using.
Now that I think of it I don’t even remember if it was hex or torx.
27/ 30 torx
How many hours did this job take? Dealer is quoting me 10 hrs...
5-7hrs
Does the eco boost motor have the same transmission?
Yes, it should
Hi i installed a remanufactured one the the park light keeps flashing.
I’ve never used remans, it’s most likely got a short or something in the PRNDl switch
Can anyone help me... Just had the lead frame done yesterday.. it's still doing the same shit... Do you have to do the flash update, when it's done? Someone said something about a flash update to me.. thanks
I’ve never had to flash after this repair, if it’s still doing the same thing then I would assume it’s an internal transmission fault, that or a connector issue
So I replaced it on my 2013 F150 a couple days ago. Followed step by step and topped off the fluid, but the transmission no longer allows reverse. Any ideas what may have caused this?
Does it get all the other gears? I’ve never had one do that but I’ve seen a lot of people miss the manual shift valve on the driver side.
It hits all the gears but reverse won’t engage.@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387
@user-yr5nj4vc1h I would check the pins in the connector first, but I would think it would be solely hydraulic
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387what does that mean. Would it be bad solenoid or need new valve body?
@@swishyboi7444 I would assume something like debris might have gotten in during installation, improperly installed valve body, or something like that.
Have any idea what the foam gasket part number is
No I don’t, I didn’t pay attention to that, I’ll check the ticket when I get back to work tomorrow
Really appreciate it.
@@dillonblankenship1292 The part number I have is BL3Z7A098A
Just replace my lead frame. Im 99% sure I put everything back right but now the truck isn’t starting. All I get is one click from passenger floorboard area. Battery is good. Any ideas?
Did you have the battery unhooked, this sounds like the starter is engaging but not cranking. That leadframe has the PRNDL in it but I assume it’s good because it’s clicking. Check for power at the main cable at the starter.
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387
I did not unhook the battery. It is not showing what gear it is in. Ill go check power to the starter and get back to you. Thanks
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387It does have power to the starter
@@garrettgilstrap7509 if it’s not showing what gear it’s in then it won’t start, if I remember right most of those fords have dual solenoids to the starter so it might be engaging one and not the other, try unplugging your trans connector and inspect the pins to make sure one didn’t get folded
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387They all look good.
I've herd that the Gen 2 they took out the spring for the bypass valve or something to fix an issue or the got rid of it. Could you explain that please
I haven’t been in to one of those yet, I research as needed as we are an independent shop. I have a feeling I’ll be getting into more of them as another shop has been farming work to us for years and told us today they lost their senior tech and would be bringing all higher end diagnostic work to us.
After pulling the valve body when does that stream of trans oil stop? I was hoping to get this done in less than a day.
It doesn’t stop, I usually drop the body before leaving for the night and do the work the next day, still makes a mess.
Another video I watched the guy used a little compressed air through the fill hole to release the vacuum before dropping the pan and it drained instantly for him
How much would one charge to do this?
In the comments some were talking about cost, this job cost the customer $700-$800, others talked about having to pay $1700 at a dealer
Them 2 little rubber hoses 1 come out the other is still in the transmission
Pull the one off and put it back up in the trans, you’ll never get it lined up otherwise
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 thanks
How much normally you charge for a job like this?
That job was over $700
Sounds worth it to me material and labor ?
@@konstruct11 yes, that was out the door
What’s the part number
The one for this job was AL3Z7G276D
@@bulldogsautomotiveadventur4387 thanks👍
Do you have to do any software updates after installing a new lead frame?
@@jlbaine no, plug and play
WARNING FOR NOOBS: USE INCH-LBS, AND NOT FOOT-LBS FOR TORQUE! I sheared a bolt... fml
You speak softly and thats fine , i cant stand a video when the youtuber screams . But you speak softly with music dubbed in , so hard to follow .👍
I plan on getting a mic eventually, right now I’m just using the mic on my phone