Great video even in 2024!!! Quick question, I plan on using a foxeer reaper aio, t-rex cam, tbs unify hv. Would the procedure still be the same even with a Aio? Also what would be the best way to add ground redundancy? . Thanks much!
Interestingly enough, I believe as the manufacturers cram more and cheaper components in ever smaller spaces, this video will become more relevant - unfortunately.. I wire everything this way. I have an HGLRC AIO that had nearly unflyable video and was cleared up with my "isolate-it" method. The thing to understand is that your video system is completely isolated from the flight controller when doing this; However, we need to send the video from the camera through the OSD chip. Therefore, we need to have redundancy for those grounds and a stronger ground for the flight controller at that intersection (directly to lipo ground). Current flow, EMF, signal interface, etc. follow the path of least resistance to ground - we want to create a clear path for that and not through the OSD chip of the flight controller. Each contact point from our video system (FPV components) needs to have a redundant ground to the main lipo ground (in summary).. Hope this helps...🍻
Man, I followed your instructions on my last build with horrible video issues since the beggining, and oh my god I now have the best video feed I ever had, this is beautiful ! I can't thank you enough !
Thank you! Did this as well (with the exception of powering the FC directly from the lipo's) and it worked. My fpv cam feed is cleaner than ever. Appreciate your generosity in sharing this info. This is what youtube is all about.
Hello Everyone! Thank you for checking out my channel and subscribing. This has taken me a long time to get out to you. I wanted to get it right. I have been a little down with everything going on but I'm happy to share with you my fix to get absolutely clean FPV feed into your goggles. I have always just dealt with lines and background disturbances in my video. Not anymore! Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
As an electronic technician, you did a really good job at laying out what you did and why. I have been looking to get a better image out of my FPV gear and you about hit the nail on the head. The jumping of the grounds is a good thing. I've seen this back in my car audio days where a lot of people would not have good grounding ether burning out their amp/s or having bad sound quality. Cutting out the VCC from the ESC wiring harness is where I think you did the biggest change in improving your video quality. Adding the voltage regulator may be overkill but maybe you did it because your VTX doesn't have the best quality built-in voltage regulator. I have a Rush tank II ultimate that I will use its built-in voltage regulator for the camera and bypass the ESC VCC for the VTX and the FC by getting it from the battery wire with a good capacitor to help keep down any ESC noise. I will also do the gound jumpers as you did for your FC. Thanks for the information, this definitely helps me get a jump start into fixing my setup.
I appreciate your feedback.. You are correct, I ran the LC to compensate for the inexpensive AKK 20x20 vtx. I quickly replaced it with the Matek mini (really liked it). I also have the Rush 30x30 on my race 5incher, I do like it...
@@PropsOff No, unfortunately not yet because I think my vtx (Speedybee TX800) is broken. Although I have the output power set to 800mW, I can only reach a maximum of 100m. I have a RUSHFPV Cherry 2 antenna 150mm. I use the Eachine EV800D 5.8G goggles with the included antennas. But I've heard that the antennas should be sufficient. Yes, I'm connected to the correct channel with the VTX. To be precise, race band R8 (5917MHz). Today I flew my 5" drone on a completely clear field without any obstacles. From about 20m the image starts to get a little grainy. From 60m the image looks like you want to turn around but today I flew further and reached 100m before I crashed because I couldn't see anything anymore. Nothing happened to the drone. Can you help me?
@@SchraubeUNDMutter Do you have Facebook Messenger? If you do, sceenshot our conversation (to remind me who you are) and share DVR video...🍻 facebook.com/share/8jvppQjgEgM9dTkr/
nice video, great tips. Hey I wanted to just share a little info I discovered, regarding that "flannel shirt" effect you mention. I wasn't sure if you are running crossfire, but in 2 of my builds i've come across that flannel shirt effect and i've been able to resolve it by changing my camera wire length. Basically, if your camera wire is the same length as your receiver antenna's active element, it will pick up that frequency and mix it into your video signal. So when you cut your wires, measure them precisely and make sure they aren't tuned into your RX feed! I've done this twice now, on 2 builds and amazed at how it clears up the picture!
This is super interesting information!!! I'm not running Crossfire but Rxsr and XM+ Frsky.. However, I will have to play around and cut my camera wire to 32.8mm as my receiver antenna and see what happens... I appreciate your feedback and support...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
How much difference in length does it seem to take before it doesn't couple anymore? Like 1cm on a 2.4 connection, more, less, or just have to experiment? Reading this is a DUH moment for sure, lol. Thanks!
@@guerrillaradio9953 first compare your wire length with the active element on your receiver antenna, if it isn't anywere close to the same length you might have some other issue. But in my experience, i have 3 crossfire builds, I actually had the same issue on all 3 of them, I cut roughly 10mm off of the camera wire, ground 5v and camera, and it totally cleared up on my systems.
@@imothy Yeah, making the ground wire twice as long and wrapping in around 5v and signal does help.. I should grab my Crossfire stuff and mess around, but I have been in a hobby slump (no money/no parts available).. Sort of a Bummer!
@@PropsOff Was there for years...spent 2 winters living in my conversion van in northern Minnesota....luckily my money is better this year than it's been in a long time. Hope things turn around for you. @Mothy I use 72MHz, so it took more fiddling, but it really helped! Most of my issues stemmed from my 915MHz telemetry TX, but now it's even clear as this video with that running full power! Now stuff it all into a full carbon pusher prop jet...still looks just as good as long as I use all external antennas. I have a love/hate relationship with carbon fiber...
amazing video... honestly, this is what passion looks like. Thank you for sharing, I had to watch it over a couple of times lol but I enjoyed every moment that allowed me to understand the process. I appreciated it all and look forward to more.
Dude, that is awesome! I just finished modding my quad and it works! THANK U! I use 1.2ghz 1W vtx and i though i would never see clear video. Its 23:49 and i want to go fly to try it - it could be awesome long range drone now...
I appreciate your feedback. I've worked many hours to get it clean. I'm very happy to share and help get rid of the flannel, lol.. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Excellent video and information. I have been in electronics for too many years. Computer electronics, discrete components, tons of phone systems. What I can say for sure is a bad ground, not power, is the issue 98% of the time. I love your approach, and next build I will use all of your tricks. Thank you sir. Let it flow, Let it flow, Let it flow. Happy Holidays.
@PropsOff thanks man! It cured my and my brothers headache. Putting additional ground points made a huge difference. Also great to share and help fellow pilots with crap experience
Hello, I want to really thank you for your solution which fixed my video problem too. I have Matek F405-SE, TBS Unify Pro 32 HV et eachine ESC 4/1 and I tried many things expected to solve the problem but nothing really worked. Now I added ground wires from the FC ground of VTX and Camera to my Lipo wire ground and it solved the problem. I removed the little ground wire of the ESC to the FC to make sure not have ESC disturbances. My video is really clean with disarmed motors and when I arme the motors, I don't have anymore lines on my video and no more OSD glitchs and flickering. The OSD is really clean. I have not tried outside yet, only in my garage because fo the weather, but it seems that I will not have troubles if I fly normaly and full gaz outside next time I will fly. I had lines and OSD glitchs and flickering when I tested without blades and now I tested the same way and don't have anything of that.
So, I can power the FC straight from the battery, and VTX+Camera from a standalone BEC? that is powered straight from the battery as well? Since my VTX is only taking in 5V, and does not have pads for the camera. So, bec ground to the camera ground pad and the camera itself, and also the Uart1 ground pad is how to do it? I hope I explained this clearly... Thank You for this video too!
It's difficult to know precisely without looking a at a wire diagram of all the components. You can power multiple devices directly from the lipo as long as the device power range and lipo output is within spec. The VTX only takes 5V? Then run a 5V BEC and have it power the VTX and camera.. Ground all 3 together...🍻
@@PropsOff well sir, I've tried everything you suggested in this video and despite it all. I still have crap video. The difference between my build and yours is that I'm using a tbs hv vtx and because of that. I had to use a redundant ground from the camera to the ground next to video in on fc. Otherwise identically wired. So frustrating. Any thoughts or suggestions? After it all I also tried a piece of copper deal to act like a Faraday shield. No help either.
@@MouwDown I was testing a Runcam Phoenix 2 Micro camera and had video issues. I replaced the camera with the exact same specs.. Absolutely perfect video again. To no suprise, I hit a gate and bounced off the ground 2 , 3, maybe 6 times.. Lol.. Now, I have not great video.. Hum, I'm curious now. I have smashed my Caddx Ratel over and over with still good video. I am eventually get one to replace my 2nd Runcam Phoenix 2 Micro.. Question, Do you have the means to replace your camera? Has your camera taken a small to medium hit? This stuff is frustrating and expensive to test maybe and maybe nots, lol
@@PropsOff This is a fresh build. The camera I'm using is the newish trex from foxeer. I did have decent video when I powered the camera with my vtx. Then I got the osd flickering. After that I soldered the redundant ground from camera to ground next to video input on fc. After that, video went bad with no osd flicker. Haha I'm bout ready to give up on mamba fc's. I originally picked it because the esc hookups were up front. I definitely could put a different camera on. I do have a few in the bin. It's just crazy to me how bad the video is despite everything I've tried so far.
@@MouwDown My newest build is using the Matek F405-STD flight controller and it's clean, without mods.. I would be interesting if a new camera would be the fix...
I would like to know if Crossfire adds video garbage. I currently only own Frsky/RM receivers. I've read Crossfire can cause video issues. Like, the camera's signal wire cannot be the same length as the Crossfire antenna - things like that..
Yesterday i connect my rush solo to the bec and the cam to the rush following your wiring diagram. I done random ground bridge because i have different fc ( kakute f4 v2.4 ). The only thing i miss is connect the fc to esc via VCC eliminating the vbat and ground cables from esc-fc connectors. Everything seem to work ok, no shortcut or issues. At monitor video is fine. This week end i'l test if my osd get stable and if the video quality has improved. I will let you know. I still fly analog in 2024... and you out there???
I got your DM on Facebook.. I am EST here, but can't sleep again...😔 Anyways, I certainly look forward to know your results. I appreciate your feedback and support...🍻
So here's where I'm at, I'm currently running the Hobbywing g3 f4 stack on two of my quads and I've always had very visible diagonal stripes in my video, using a cap on the main leads. I tried running the vtx off the main leads and 12v on FC, also tested running cam from vtx and FC, problem seemed to be the same. Fast forward to just last week, I powered the vtx through 9v LC filter (with small cap on 9v out) to main leads (with big cap) and cam to vtx. Still had the stripes, but that introduced esc noise. So I just went through your whole video, isolated the vtx and cam, powered FC from main leads, and grounded everything I could. It helped a lot, however both the stripes and OSD flickering are still there. All the video gear is fairly new in my quad (this is a 7") and I've switched out several components. Do you have any ideas on this?
I had striped video after a crash. I replaced the camera and all was clear. Do you have your video (yellow) connected to the flight controller to display OSD? Tie them together (no OSD info temporarily) and see if that's it.. I had a Betafpv board that constantly gave me fits and I replaced it with a Matek FC and all was good.
@@PropsOff I tied the signals together, like you said, and tried different cameras, the stripes are still there. I'm running the unify pro hv, tried with lc filter with a cap on output, no cap, no lc, cap on vtx 5v out the camera, changed vtx, changed sma tail and antenna, completely isolating video from the rest of the quad, and nothing changed. It does seem to be a problem on the cam or 5v out side, when I unplug the cam and have only the vtx outputting (gray screen) it's perfectly clear. I have a racer with the same setup (unify vtx and foxeer mini/micro) and it's always had this problem too
@@killere1587 This is terrible. Sounds like you have done everything possible. This may seem silly, however, have you flown in a different area? An area free of obstacles and possible WIFI or network interference.. Email me pictures. Like top, bottom, all sides. Clear and lit up so I can see the wiring. If you can, remove the top plate.
Thank you so much I just did this, and I have the best video I've ever had. I post on reddit asking for help. They all just criticized me. Only one comment had any help.
I appreciate your feedback. I spent so much time messing with it and have all my quads set up, using my method - except my Matek quads...🤔 Interestingly enough, the filtration on their F405 and F22SE is most excellent. Super glad this got you clean video as well.. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
hi. I think I get it now. 'some' boards might(?) have broken or improper traces for GND. what I suspect is you have tied the analog(from the video pads) & digital GND(the usual GND for uarts), making it solid. 👍
I do suspect, a few boards I've used are more susceptible to noise. I have a Spedix stack from years ago and it has no redundant grounds. It doesn't even have a capacitor; Its video is perfect. Everything shown here is for analog video systems. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
will the smaller matek versions do this? I have a large matek that works great for cleaning feed... but this floss build has about as much room as a buzzer board has... definitely can't fit that full size hub you got there.
I lover your mind! Before I came across this I was tearing into my 7 again to try get the best quality analog as possible . I would of went this wrought. I love the idea of powering the FC direct to bat instead of the ESC ribbon cable ? but is not a voltage regulator in the ESC to run the FC ? I run 6S . My last mod was running ground and power to cam from VTX direct and big difference . But still get a mild shimmering horizontal bars like a striped shirt. The bars are transparent , its weird. Maybe there for life . I will testify I have 6 cams of all makes and my Runcam delivers the best view Quality of them all . I think the guts inside some cams are better. Admit I;m a noob but I have OCD lol Enjoyed this thanks !!!!
I don't run any 6s currently. Everything I have is 4S that I've done this method on. I've seen wifi and crossfire cause horizontal lines, not sure. I prefer to power the FC independently from the ESC..
Great video, I been having trouble with my video. I wonder if using a pdb which has both 12v, 5v regulators and battery voltage out would do the same. Run vtx from 12v, camera from 5v and flight contoller from battery. Been looking at the matek mini power hub with has 30.5mm mounting holes
Your videos have helped me a lot with some flickering OSD and noise issues on a Tyro 119 I built, and I just realized I should try powering my FC off the battery pads as well, because I get momentary video blackouts after fast flips and rolls. I also just moved my camera ground wire so that it goes into the same plug as the signal wire, instead of going to the VTX. I think I'm close to getting it all sorted out. One thing I've done differently is that I'm not currently running the VTX off battery voltage, but from the 10V VTX pad on the FC. I tried running it off a 9V Matek BEC from the battery, but for some reason things got a lot worse. I probably didn't have the right redundant ground going for that, or something.
Thank you for checking out my channel and subscribing! Thank you.. Glad things are getting sorted out. 10v bec on the FC, which FC is that? I used the 12v Matek Lc/bec and had to run the extra ground to the cam pad. It's funny, I added the Runcam DVR board to get clean footage (for the very few that wanted to see me fly), and introduced a little noise back into my fpv feed. Probably will remove it soon after a couple more rips...
It's an Eachine Tyro 129 F4 GPS FC that came with the build kit. I've been using that build as a way to learn about all this stuff, since it is so inexpensive. I don't have much fear taking it apart and putting it back together a lot, soldering and trying new things on it, like the redundant ground system. I'm about to do my first build from scratch with parts I selected, and the practice working on the Tyro 119 has given me the confidence to know I can figure it out.
I also have a shitty 20*20 mamba stack. I tried many things before (putting caps, powering cam from vtx, that solve the noise issue but not the flic), but the only thing that worked was putting the 3 redundant grounds that were discussed in this video. And powering the vtx from the lipo, but that was the case already (esc passthrough before). I did everything at once, so not sure what did the trick. Anyway, thanks for the tips, I was pretty desparate. It's still a noisy build in terms of gyro filtering, but at least I don't have the flickering osd no more. I put it on a 7inch though, maybe that's just too much for the f40 mamba esc.
This kind of issue can be one of the trickiest and sometimes you just have to try every approach. I have an interesting example on an RC car. I have two cameras back to back front and rear. They share the same length of wiring. They are wired into a 20A relay where the front cam is on the NC and the rear is on the NO so I can hold a button to momentarily switch the feed to the rear camera. There is then a short run from the relay common to the VTX input. Even though these are identical cameras which both share the same wiring and have that wiring strapped together in one bundle, only the front camera experiences the lines from motor noise. I suspect that it could be a few things.. but at first glance it seems like a really counterintuitive issue.
i know it kind of old video.. but i was interested what will be the video like if you connected 2 BECs separately for each the cam and vtx? will it be better?
Interestingly enough, manufacturers still don't get it and I still wire all my analog quads this way. I have not isolated the VTX from the camera. I'd be interested in the outcome. Seems overkill, considering the video is crystal clear now; Still, if you do it, I want to know...🍻
Just did it , and it fixed an old problem which was whooply lines after plugging the battery ,, Thx for that Video i appreciate your time making it@@PropsOff
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but do any of these wiring tips apply to me if I have my camera powered from my FC instead of my VTX? I ask because it looked like a lot of the things you did relied on the camera getting power from the VTX. Also, can I just connect any ground pad on the FC to the battery ground to help the thin ground wire on the connector? Or does it have to be a certain one? Thanks!
I like running a ground to the "CAM ground" wire were ever it is. Also, twisting the ground around the camera wires helped (just cut the ground wire 2 times longer than the camera signal wires - ensuring the length of said wires are less or more than 32.8mm if running a 2.4ghz system).
@propsoff love your videos a few have really helped me out. Would a 5v/9v regular work just as good or do i need a 12v? I want to tey this on my apeedybee f405 stack witha rushfpv tank 2 ultimate. I am mainly want to try and fix a disapearing OSD ....thanks!!
A lower voltage bec is fine, as long as the VTX minimum is being exceeded. I like going in the middle of the range. For example, a VTX that is listed 2S - 4S, I like 12v.. A 9v works perfectly fine too..
Basically your powering your vtx via a linear regulator on your bec. The only issue is you will loose video if your vbat ever drops below 12v so only any good for 4s plus setups.
@@LosAngeles234 I now seen your comment, TH-cam's notification software is horrible! Anyway, I was running from the built in Bec on the Mamba FC and decided to remove it and move to a stand alone Bec.. Yes, it helped in a big way.
Sorry for my dumb question but my brain just doesnt want to understand this topic xD : Im using an AIO FC for a 3s whoop build, and the video gets very snowy at takeoff + flickering OSD or rather its diappearing completly.. The cam gets powered by the FC and so does the vtx (i could power the cam from the vtx, i just have to order a jst plug, but with my last fc, also aio, there was no problem powering both from fc not perfect but not bad video). Both components use their own 5V and ground pad. Also using a capacitor on the battery leads. So all i have to do in my case is running an extra ground wire, like Y shaped, from my battery ground to the cam and vtx ground pads?
the vtx only takes 5v, the cam can take up to 18v. On the fc i also have an unused 10v pad. Do you think its worth a try or powering directly from the lipo would be the best way?
@@zolex5370 I read both of your comments. If the flight controller has a 10v pad, I would use it for the camera - less amps used... Yes, you can run a redundant ground from the lipo ground to all ground pads to bolster the current flow. As I show in this video, I run my VTX and Cam from an independent BEC. The flight controllers just fail to have adequate filtration (except Matek)...🍻
@@zolex5370 Definitely, yeah its better to run the grounds and power the cam for now. If the flickering and garbage in the video won't clear up, even being an AIO, you can still follow this video to isolate the FPV portion. The matek 2-6s BEC is my go to. I actually do this process with HDzero as well. I haven't made an update video yet, but my "Super Duper Mega Ultralite.... has taken a V4 overhaul with HDzero...🤌🏻
Dudeee !!! OMG.. thanks man.. its improve my video a lot but still had a tiny bit of line in my video with no lc filter.. waiting the lc filter arrive, video should be more good in future
Glad this helped.. Mine has started to degrade and I think a new vtx is in order, they won't last forever... Will you come back and let me know if the lc-filter cleans it all up?
I've grown accustomed to just settin the information out there.. Lol, can't seem to tell people anything anymore.. Everybody already knows everything, Haha..
how to connect a speedybee f405 v3 with an eachine tx526 and a runcam sparrow like your sheme? I don´t get it how to get all working together with your method, would be fine if you can help me got the connection plans for everything but can´t handle it toghether
Your over complicating the process.. Your powering the analog system via a BEC.. Then you simple ground the connections (Only ground).. Wire the BEC to the lipo leads. Then, power the VTX. The camera gets power from the VTX.. The camera connects to the flight controller with only the V-in. You need to redundant the ground for that connection... Then redundant the ground for the ground from the camera pad to the ground pad of the VTX - on the flight controller.. Then a ground strap from the main ground pad of the flight controller directly to the ground of the lipo. Your basically grounding everything twice because the BEC, VTX, and Cam is isolated from the Flight Controller.. *Note: Because we have to run the video through the OSD chip on the flight controller, we have to ground all the ground connections to clear the video noise ... The main ground could be the USB ground stubs too.. Really, we need a heavy ground for them to all go to.. Electrical current and EMF follows the path of least resistance.. Unfortunately, when these manufacturers made parts smaller and smaller and CHEAPER!, it introduced a ton of noise into the video. Grounding all these connections to a "real" ground is the key...🍻
Thank you for the quick answer. Is it possible just to connect all grounds togehter without a bec directly from the lipo like in ur other video? i can´t find the right BEC to buy and in ur other video u also got no extra BEC ? can i just do it like i´ll show u on fb? @@PropsOff
@@timwandtke2791 The isolation of the video system is important, however, prior to doing so cleared it pretty well.. You can do as I did in the previous video and then add the redundancy of grounding the components. I found the LC of the BEC made it perfect though...🍻
So I've always ran the mamba f405 stack on multiple builds and never dealt with much camera noise. Well I just hooked up an iflight esc to the mamba fc and man did I have such bad noise. Heard about running another ground and instantly helped a ton, but I'm still getting some noise, including the darkening effect you were talking about. That's how ended up here. Point being, maybe the esc has quite a bit to do with the noise, and we should avoid mix matching FC and ESC's?
I Gave it a Full Watch Brother and learned something I am over busted video Feed not ready for DJI just yet altho I have been testing on some V2 Goggles So Thank You for Sharing this I will wire mine just the Same
It has made not going digital easier, lol.. I've got 6 or 7 wired like this now.. So clear.. Thanks for your feedback. Means a lot coming from you...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
So your running your vtx straight from the battery then you are running you camera from the vtx also your running your fc straight from battery also ? Right
- Lipo to Matek BEC - BEC to VTX - VTX to FCer - Camera to VTX - Redundant ground to each component to create a common ground of least resistance. Also, there's a capacitor between the lipo connection and BEC. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
I connected an extra ground wire from the esc board to FC, and jumped that wire to cam ground and then jump from cam ground to the vtx ground. I still have huge flickers and noise, my camera is powered by FC not vtx. what do u think the problem might be, Bad antennas . My goggles is Eachine vd800d.
@@PropsOff sir I have another drone without those kind of flight controller It’s a dji naza m lite flight controller so I have to directly wire it to the battery without going through the flight controller can you make a small short video about how to make connections for that. I really need that kind of clear video feedback. Please help!🥹
@@travelsvlog144 It would be nearly identical to this method. Run the BEC off the lipo to power your VTX and run the camera off the VTX. Run a redundant ground for the camera. This will isolate your FPV gear, and you'll be good to go..🍻
Im getting really really bad snow like effect that grows with the throttle to the point where I can't see anything at all . You did good explaining everything but idk if it will help my problem. I was told I might need to drop another capacitor in line somewhere but idk where that would be.
Sounds like more than motor noise interference. You should have decent flyable video and this video is to clean it up to nearly perfect. Double caps aren't really the answer.. Look for shorts, wrong channel, something rubbing through the motor wires, unfortunately, many things cause snow in your video. Can you post a video and drop a link?
So I just put in a 5v-9v regulator to power my camera to isolate it from the FC didn't do much. Should I wire the regulator to my vtx and power my camera from the vtx or just add another regulator to power the vtx
Hi, great video it has helped quite a bit however, I have an issue that I’m hoping you can help me with. My fpv feed breaks up at about 5 meters on my hglrc Zeus nano 350 mw vtx, is this normal? I’ve tried changing the output power and I can’t figure out why everyone else with this vtx is getting a much better fpv feed. Help would be much appreciated. 👍
I have a half dozen Zeus Nanos, great VTX.. Your scenario does not seem normal. I assume that you are running the correct IRCTramp VTX protocol. If you downloaded that Table from somewhere, did you check to make sure "low power mode" is off, and "pit mode" is off, and that the device says ready (in the right corner of the VTX tab in Betaflight)?
@@PropsOff thanks for your reply, I’ll make sure to check those things out. Do you know how I can check if my vtx is on low power mode? I’m using irc tramp protocol, and have a table set out already. Where do you get your table from? I checked cli, types Get Vtx and the power output says 1-7 which is obviously not right because there are 4 power levels. So I think the vtx table is wrong. If you have the correct table, pls help me find it.
@@joeasciutto5770 You can open Betaflight, go to the VTX tab, look at the left side and see the information. It will have the band, channel, power, low power, pit mode.. You can set everything there and also customize the power output levels at the bottom. Do make sure (on the right side) "Device Ready" says yes... betaflight.com/docs/wiki/archive/VTX-Tables
@@PropsOff hi sorry to bother you again but I took off my capacitor and my video feed is much better, How could this be, I thought the capacitor is meant to make you quad better?
Jamie, your welcome.. Its helped more people than I thought it would, and it's still the way I do things.. I just wrapped up testing, just this week, on and AIO 35amp Whoop Toothpick board. I did this to it as well.. If you want, watch my newest video to see the results coming from a whoop camera...LOL!
This is very useful to me, thank you :). I am just wondering if it would have been even easier to just attach all the grounds (Camera, VTX, and the regulator) simply to the same, shared pad on the FC instead of running those jumper wires? In my mind it would have given the same result if I am not mistaken?
I thought the same. I experimented and had different results. There are components in line and if you try a common ground the video is garbage. In testing, I also removed one by one and the video suffered. I messed with this for a year and got my video crystal - finally! Odd thing is, I dont have to do any of this to any of my Matek flight controllers.
@@napfpv6239 I have never loved a hobby as I do this one. If at all possible I can make someone else enjoy it as I do, I feel awesome.. I appreciate your feedback...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
I get black screen and no osd when I full throttle with a 6s lipo. With a 4s my feed is clean. Do you think these solutions will fix the problem? Thanks
I chose not to power the FC form the ESC in the beginning of my "Better FPV" journey to minimize the EMF able to enter the FC. I also like direct connections instead of the 4 pins involved with the hot and ground in this plug.. the largest improvement was the redundant ground. The BEC has filtering on it, so I call it second, including a good 680uf capacitor.. The combination of all these things really made the difference. I actually removed one component (to include a single ground wire) and flew it to see if it changed. I did this to remove wasted effort and weight. I was a little surprised at how finicky this FC was. I have all the parts to build a sister to this quad.. Same motors and frame, however individual ESCs and a Matek F405 standard flight controller. I will be using a vtx and camera previously tested.. Will be cool to see if I can get excellent fpv feed from it as well.. Stay tuned...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
The curciut ground traces and their paths are not significant enough. These are redundant. I added each wire, flew, removed, flew, and added back to evaluate changes. This video shows the final outcome from 9 months of my best results.
@@PropsOff just started with the hobby and this video was very interesting. So, when I am going to build my first own Copter I will take this into consideration. Especially the option to disable the vtx is awesome and will be very handy when the quad is on the bench with battery attached to the FC.
@@aglandorf75 I must have the ability to turn off the vtx and camera. There is a device called a "Realpit". It is extremely small and really cool to use for any switch. I have the instructions to install one on my channel (just in case your vtx doesn't have the ability).
i think this is the second time ive watched this video and now it actually sticks since i have been doing the basic wiring vtx power from fc and camera power from fc... butt my 6inch racer has the flicking osd on higher throttle so i will look into implementing this strategy !!
I had terrible video on my 5incher running 2306 2400kv Strix motors pushed by an F55A Pro II ESC on 4s. I like to full punch a lot and flickering osd, squiggly lines, dimming image, etc. every time is so freakin annoying. I love my fpv feed and I believe everyone that has done this has had good (maybe not perfect) results.. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
That's interesting.. So your saying to step up the 5v pad from the flight controller to power the camera and vtx? I'm worried there wouldn't be adequate amperage.
@@PropsOff im using power distribution board... Well thats im gonna try... 😅.. I have 10v from pdb.. Then with step up.. Going to be 12 volt... To Vtx. Anyway how many ampere do we need
Connecting the vtx to the internal bec at 9v or 12v in the flight controller(when it has one) instead of putting the extra regulator, should do similar results right? I'm planning to do this on my first 5'' and connecting the vtx and camera ground to the same pad. I have it like this on my beta75x and my geprc cinepro and the video is really good
I had originally used the 9v supplied by the FC and decided to run an external BEC.. I found the external to be very clean and better at handling noise..
@@PropsOff maybe internal becs vary their quality from model to model too.. I'll have to test that. I'm planning to buy the diatone mamba f722 stack with 60A ESC. It should be similar to yours I think
@@DiogoFilipeR I'm running the same flight controller, this is the Mamba F722.. I just like the Tmotor F55A Pro II ESC due to it durability and 10 Seconds of full up throttle.. Let me know, I only have Mamba ESCs on my 20x20 3incher stuff..
@@PropsOff that t-motor seems really good, I have it on the list of possible combinations. But I found that mamba stack and it seems pretty good too. Do you prefer the t-motor esc to the mamba with 60A included in the stack? my list for now: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wsUfkFxfvJHV4dGRo39nh0e4rNOTe4x8ckiytNTrGgE/edit?usp=sharing
@@PropsOff I think it was a silicon coaxial. I was under the impression that electrical noise in fpv was becuase of the wiring taking on intereferance, seems now its mostly from the electrical grounding issue.
@@airmanfpv964 Seems so... In the beginning of FPV, nearly all the components were seperate and lots of wires. As more devices became one or two boards, the grounding became smaller and smaller. Problem is, the current got bigger and bigger and the demand for a bigger ground became ever more needed. FPV manufacturers seem to have forgotten the 101 of electronics - "Path of least resistance"...🍻
I like the filtration of the Matek, however, any BEC with LC-FILTER should work. Just make sure the outputting amps is enough. I have seen some 0.5amp ones and that won't work. A BEC rated 1.5+ is better..
Thank you. www.amazon.de/dp/B0178DWZZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_PVYATB5FWQSFEKCRARP5 This seems to have an LC filter. But there is nothing in the product description. It has an inductor and several capacitors.
(I have this problem) Crazybee f3 frsky fc.....If your video-out pad was burnt off on your flight controller, how would you wire up the camera to get OSD? If that's possible...Thanks for sharing!
@@PropsOff I consider myself to have great solder skills but not sure how and where the OSD is running on the board. Could I just run wire to video-in without using video-out? Thanks!
Every now and then I get esc noise (faint horizontal lines appear on screen) and then my osd disappears for a second then the noise disappears and the osd comes back. How would I fix this?
Sounds like (if you already did this) your camera my have issues. I had a Runcam Phoenix II that did exactly what your saying. I changed it out and issues gone.
I have a question how I will know if my camera got damage because I don't have a picture when I turn on the drone .I took it from another drone is a caddx ratel.the pads where I have wire it on the flight controller are ok I have the ground, the 10v and the yellow wire I have it on the cam.
@@PropsOff it don't show anything . Also I have the little ⌚monitor and also do not show anything. I did order another camera just in case this one got damage but im going to keep troubleshooting I think there is something wrong. But right now I have to go to bed . I have to wake-up early 😩.
I appreciate your feedback. I really put some time in testing this and is a game changer for me. Some of my chapter members using HD have even said it looks amazing. Do let me know your experiences please...🍻
@@PropsOff dang man, i looked at all 3 of mine. i built them so long ago, forgot my vtx powered from FC, not lipo (they can't take 6S). cams powered from vtx's, so there's that. so technically vtx is already grounded to fc. guess that's about the best i can do without converting to a regulator. :( i have seen some people put small capacitor on vtx, maybe i scavenge some small caps.
Cool I'm going todo hybrid add lc filter and ground vtx camera fc to ground off battery best of both with out jumping ground all over board all grounds go to battery ground like a harness cheer for help I let you know how it goes when got time to try it wed Thurs my.next days off
Interestingly enough, I added a jumper and flew the quad. Then, I removed that jumper and flew the quad. The wiring is a final result of many months of testing.. Good luck...🍻
Great video my friend... But the fact that you had to carry over your grounds like that show that mamba flight controller is not the best. Using a good voltage regulator should always clean up your video feed at least a little bit. 👌🏼
Hey buddy. I powered my Iflight blitz f7 directly from battery voltage. But the Iflight blitz stack has 2 bat and 2 grounds in the main bus line. So, I got rid of both the red wires in my stack plug, but now.......when I power up I am getting zero battery voltage. It is displayed in OSD, but it indicates zero, which cannot be correct. Any suggestions for me would help. I think it has something to do with those 2 batt and 2 ground pins, but not sure
@@PropsOff i am running a power lead straight from the lipo(xt60), so i didnt need the power leads in the wire harness. But now, i am not getting a voltage reading
FYI a simple shortcut to this is to just put all grounds on the same ground pad. I can attest that everything he's telling you is valid and will make a noticeable improvement. But you'll get most of the way there just putting all your video system grounds on the same pad.
If you were paying attention, I do say that I removed and replaced every single wire, flying in between movements, and each time it made a difference. Do you remember me saying that? I disagree about the shortcuts your mentioning here, especially on the Mamba flight controller. I have a separate video that shows a redundant ground and how much it helps. It's significant 4shO, however, I went much farther. Interestingly enough, the Matek F405 flight controllers, I'm using, do not have video issues. At least not like the others Im running. Lol, I wanted perfection and "most of the way" wasn't were I wanted to stop.. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻 P.S. Big fan of Smashing Pumpkins, cool led gates and nice rip...👍🏻
@@PropsOff I confess to skipping around and may have missed that. I actually did this exact same experiment a few years back. Before they had those nice little PCBs, I used some small buck inverters. Like you, I found this to be the end all solution for ultra clean video. I also came to the same conclusion that Mamba's have inherently crummy video while the Mateks are much better (I too swear by the F405-CTR). I only mentioned my shortcut because the extra wiring and components will turn off racers. But the halfway solution is better than nothing with no added weight or complexity. This is a great video with great depth and detail. Thanks. And I'm glad you like the gates (and the Pumpkins). That finish gate is an old jump house LOL. Works perfect!
@@dutchfpv7010 I agree.. If racers want way better video but are more concerned with weight your on it.. I wish I had the means to design and make my own FC.. Matek is my go to for now.
@@dutchfpv7010 @DutchFPV Same pad in my case would be the black lipo wire then? As the vtx is powered from the lipo (via the esc input paths), and the cam is powered from the vtx.
One tip! Do not run any wires over the FC ever! The gyro will feel those vibrations from everything including the wires slamming on the gyro chip! That's even dangerous!
Really isn't enough current running through the power wire for the camera to generate interfering EMF. I have gone through a few other quads that had troubled video and put this method to the test and they are nearly flawless now.. Makes flying so much better...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
@@PropsOff I am so pissed I never come across your channel sooner, I have been flying for almost 6 years now and I am of the same opinion. need better video feed. Just stripped down my best 5" and re wiring, just want this to work. Cheers
@@madforit9661 If your video has a little unwanted noise in it and your setup is like mine, I'm confident it's going to clear you up.. I appreciate your feedback and encouragement...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Just thought I would give you an update. Followed what you did on the re wire to the T. on my fav 5" . Jesus I went flying today, well I went to test it. Bloody amazing. Going to re wire my other drones, got Bec's on order. Thanks
Great video even in 2024!!! Quick question, I plan on using a foxeer reaper aio, t-rex cam, tbs unify hv.
Would the procedure still be the same even with a Aio? Also what would be the best way to add ground redundancy? . Thanks much!
Interestingly enough, I believe as the manufacturers cram more and cheaper components in ever smaller spaces, this video will become more relevant - unfortunately..
I wire everything this way. I have an HGLRC AIO that had nearly unflyable video and was cleared up with my "isolate-it" method. The thing to understand is that your video system is completely isolated from the flight controller when doing this; However, we need to send the video from the camera through the OSD chip. Therefore, we need to have redundancy for those grounds and a stronger ground for the flight controller at that intersection (directly to lipo ground). Current flow, EMF, signal interface, etc. follow the path of least resistance to ground - we want to create a clear path for that and not through the OSD chip of the flight controller.
Each contact point from our video system (FPV components) needs to have a redundant ground to the main lipo ground (in summary)..
Hope this helps...🍻
Man, I followed your instructions on my last build with horrible video issues since the beggining, and oh my god I now have the best video feed I ever had, this is beautiful !
I can't thank you enough !
You've thanked me enough with the wonderful and encouraging feedback.. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Thank you! Did this as well (with the exception of powering the FC directly from the lipo's) and it worked. My fpv cam feed is cleaner than ever. Appreciate your generosity in sharing this info. This is what youtube is all about.
I appreciate your feedback and support, it means a lot to hear this helped you aswell. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Hello Everyone! Thank you for checking out my channel and subscribing. This has taken me a long time to get out to you. I wanted to get it right. I have been a little down with everything going on but I'm happy to share with you my fix to get absolutely clean FPV feed into your goggles. I have always just dealt with lines and background disturbances in my video. Not anymore! Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
As an electronic technician, you did a really good job at laying out what you did and why. I have been looking to get a better image out of my FPV gear and you about hit the nail on the head. The jumping of the grounds is a good thing. I've seen this back in my car audio days where a lot of people would not have good grounding ether burning out their amp/s or having bad sound quality. Cutting out the VCC from the ESC wiring harness is where I think you did the biggest change in improving your video quality. Adding the voltage regulator may be overkill but maybe you did it because your VTX doesn't have the best quality built-in voltage regulator. I have a Rush tank II ultimate that I will use its built-in voltage regulator for the camera and bypass the ESC VCC for the VTX and the FC by getting it from the battery wire with a good capacitor to help keep down any ESC noise. I will also do the gound jumpers as you did for your FC. Thanks for the information, this definitely helps me get a jump start into fixing my setup.
I appreciate your feedback.. You are correct, I ran the LC to compensate for the inexpensive AKK 20x20 vtx. I quickly replaced it with the Matek mini (really liked it). I also have the Rush 30x30 on my race 5incher, I do like it...
Thank You man! I am currently trying to fix my analog Video problems. I am sure the things you mentioned will help me.
@@SchraubeUNDMutter
It's been 5 days, have you used any of my techniques to help your analog become clear❓
@@PropsOff No, unfortunately not yet because I think my vtx (Speedybee TX800) is broken. Although I have the output power set to 800mW, I can only reach a maximum of 100m. I have a RUSHFPV Cherry 2 antenna 150mm. I use the Eachine EV800D 5.8G goggles with the included antennas. But I've heard that the antennas should be sufficient. Yes, I'm connected to the correct channel with the VTX. To be precise, race band R8 (5917MHz). Today I flew my 5" drone on a completely clear field without any obstacles. From about 20m the image starts to get a little grainy. From 60m the image looks like you want to turn around but today I flew further and reached 100m before I crashed because I couldn't see anything anymore. Nothing happened to the drone.
Can you help me?
@@SchraubeUNDMutter
Did you record the flight?
@@SchraubeUNDMutter
Do you have Facebook Messenger? If you do, sceenshot our conversation (to remind me who you are) and share DVR video...🍻
facebook.com/share/8jvppQjgEgM9dTkr/
@@PropsOff Nope
nice video, great tips. Hey I wanted to just share a little info I discovered, regarding that "flannel shirt" effect you mention. I wasn't sure if you are running crossfire, but in 2 of my builds i've come across that flannel shirt effect and i've been able to resolve it by changing my camera wire length. Basically, if your camera wire is the same length as your receiver antenna's active element, it will pick up that frequency and mix it into your video signal. So when you cut your wires, measure them precisely and make sure they aren't tuned into your RX feed! I've done this twice now, on 2 builds and amazed at how it clears up the picture!
This is super interesting information!!!
I'm not running Crossfire but Rxsr and XM+ Frsky.. However, I will have to play around and cut my camera wire to 32.8mm as my receiver antenna and see what happens... I appreciate your feedback and support...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
How much difference in length does it seem to take before it doesn't couple anymore? Like 1cm on a 2.4 connection, more, less, or just have to experiment? Reading this is a DUH moment for sure, lol. Thanks!
@@guerrillaradio9953 first compare your wire length with the active element on your receiver antenna, if it isn't anywere close to the same length you might have some other issue. But in my experience, i have 3 crossfire builds, I actually had the same issue on all 3 of them, I cut roughly 10mm off of the camera wire, ground 5v and camera, and it totally cleared up on my systems.
@@imothy
Yeah, making the ground wire twice as long and wrapping in around 5v and signal does help..
I should grab my Crossfire stuff and mess around, but I have been in a hobby slump (no money/no parts available).. Sort of a Bummer!
@@PropsOff Was there for years...spent 2 winters living in my conversion van in northern Minnesota....luckily my money is better this year than it's been in a long time. Hope things turn around for you.
@Mothy I use 72MHz, so it took more fiddling, but it really helped! Most of my issues stemmed from my 915MHz telemetry TX, but now it's even clear as this video with that running full power! Now stuff it all into a full carbon pusher prop jet...still looks just as good as long as I use all external antennas. I have a love/hate relationship with carbon fiber...
amazing video... honestly, this is what passion looks like. Thank you for sharing, I had to watch it over a couple of times lol but I enjoyed every moment that allowed me to understand the process. I appreciated it all and look forward to more.
I appreciate your kind words of support. Having clean video made the hobby so good...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Dude, that is awesome! I just finished modding my quad and it works! THANK U! I use 1.2ghz 1W vtx and i though i would never see clear video. Its 23:49 and i want to go fly to try it - it could be awesome long range drone now...
I appreciate your feedback. I've worked many hours to get it clean. I'm very happy to share and help get rid of the flannel, lol.. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Excellent video and information. I have been in electronics for too many years. Computer electronics, discrete components, tons of phone systems. What I can say for sure is a bad ground, not power, is the issue 98% of the time. I love your approach, and next build I will use all of your tricks. Thank you sir. Let it flow, Let it flow, Let it flow. Happy Holidays.
I appreciate your encouragement and feedback. I hope your holidays are one of the best every! Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
@PropsOff thanks man! It cured my and my brothers headache. Putting additional ground points made a huge difference. Also great to share and help fellow pilots with crap experience
Excellent! Glad it helped the 2 of you.. I appreciate your feedback...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
when I hear the words " share with you " I kick like !!!!! THX you're the man !
I appreciate your enthusiasm and encouragement...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
This video should have a lot more views
I appreciate your support and encouragement...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Square One sent me here. Amusing stuff❤
@@SbangFPV
Here's to SquareOne...🍻
I worked on this for a while and still wire them up this way. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Hello, I want to really thank you for your solution which fixed my video problem too. I have Matek F405-SE, TBS Unify Pro 32 HV et eachine ESC 4/1 and I tried many things expected to solve the problem but nothing really worked.
Now I added ground wires from the FC ground of VTX and Camera to my Lipo wire ground and it solved the problem. I removed the little ground wire of the ESC to the FC to make sure not have ESC disturbances.
My video is really clean with disarmed motors and when I arme the motors, I don't have anymore lines on my video and no more OSD glitchs and flickering. The OSD is really clean.
I have not tried outside yet, only in my garage because fo the weather, but it seems that I will not have troubles if I fly normaly and full gaz outside next time I will fly.
I had lines and OSD glitchs and flickering when I tested without blades and now I tested the same way and don't have anything of that.
I appreciate your detailed feedback. I bet if you can lift off and "punch-hover" in the garage, you'll be fine. Let me know...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
do you mean you added cable direct to the lipo ? or you add another cable from the Lipo to the soldered Ground pad of vtx and camera ?
6k around the corner keep it up
@@mfrfpv9079
I got to find more passion somewhere, somehow...🤏🏻
I appreciate your support...🍻
Makes perfect sense. Very cool
So, I can power the FC straight from the battery, and VTX+Camera from a standalone BEC? that is powered straight from the battery as well? Since my VTX is only taking in 5V, and does not have pads for the camera. So, bec ground to the camera ground pad and the camera itself, and also the Uart1 ground pad is how to do it? I hope I explained this clearly... Thank You for this video too!
It's difficult to know precisely without looking a at a wire diagram of all the components. You can power multiple devices directly from the lipo as long as the device power range and lipo output is within spec. The VTX only takes 5V? Then run a 5V BEC and have it power the VTX and camera.. Ground all 3 together...🍻
@@PropsOff Good to know. Thank You
Thank you sir. Loved your thoughts and way of describing what and why you did what you did.
I appreciate your feedback...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
@@PropsOff well sir, I've tried everything you suggested in this video and despite it all. I still have crap video. The difference between my build and yours is that I'm using a tbs hv vtx and because of that. I had to use a redundant ground from the camera to the ground next to video in on fc. Otherwise identically wired. So frustrating. Any thoughts or suggestions? After it all I also tried a piece of copper deal to act like a Faraday shield. No help either.
@@MouwDown
I was testing a Runcam Phoenix 2 Micro camera and had video issues. I replaced the camera with the exact same specs.. Absolutely perfect video again. To no suprise, I hit a gate and bounced off the ground 2 , 3, maybe 6 times.. Lol.. Now, I have not great video.. Hum, I'm curious now. I have smashed my Caddx Ratel over and over with still good video. I am eventually get one to replace my 2nd Runcam Phoenix 2 Micro..
Question, Do you have the means to replace your camera? Has your camera taken a small to medium hit?
This stuff is frustrating and expensive to test maybe and maybe nots, lol
@@PropsOff This is a fresh build. The camera I'm using is the newish trex from foxeer. I did have decent video when I powered the camera with my vtx. Then I got the osd flickering. After that I soldered the redundant ground from camera to ground next to video input on fc. After that, video went bad with no osd flicker. Haha I'm bout ready to give up on mamba fc's. I originally picked it because the esc hookups were up front. I definitely could put a different camera on. I do have a few in the bin. It's just crazy to me how bad the video is despite everything I've tried so far.
@@MouwDown
My newest build is using the Matek F405-STD flight controller and it's clean, without mods..
I would be interesting if a new camera would be the fix...
Dude... Thanks for the suggestion! I'm actually installing a crossfire reciever in my Nazgul today and will be looking to duplicate your strategies.
I would like to know if Crossfire adds video garbage. I currently only own Frsky/RM receivers. I've read Crossfire can cause video issues. Like, the camera's signal wire cannot be the same length as the Crossfire antenna - things like that..
@@PropsOff I'll let you know how it goes for sure.
Thanks again
Pure gold.
I appreciate your encouragement...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Did u also tried to use some noise isolation on wires? Like a copper sheet..
I did a sort of Faraday cage in the beginning, waste of time. It's not so much the RF getting in as it's the voltage signwave being clean...🍻
Yesterday i connect my rush solo to the bec and the cam to the rush following your wiring diagram. I done random ground bridge because i have different fc ( kakute f4 v2.4 ). The only thing i miss is connect the fc to esc via VCC eliminating the vbat and ground cables from esc-fc connectors. Everything seem to work ok, no shortcut or issues. At monitor video is fine. This week end i'l test if my osd get stable and if the video quality has improved. I will let you know.
I still fly analog in 2024... and you out there???
I got your DM on Facebook.. I am EST here, but can't sleep again...😔
Anyways, I certainly look forward to know your results. I appreciate your feedback and support...🍻
So here's where I'm at, I'm currently running the Hobbywing g3 f4 stack on two of my quads and I've always had very visible diagonal stripes in my video, using a cap on the main leads. I tried running the vtx off the main leads and 12v on FC, also tested running cam from vtx and FC, problem seemed to be the same. Fast forward to just last week, I powered the vtx through 9v LC filter (with small cap on 9v out) to main leads (with big cap) and cam to vtx. Still had the stripes, but that introduced esc noise. So I just went through your whole video, isolated the vtx and cam, powered FC from main leads, and grounded everything I could. It helped a lot, however both the stripes and OSD flickering are still there. All the video gear is fairly new in my quad (this is a 7") and I've switched out several components. Do you have any ideas on this?
I had striped video after a crash. I replaced the camera and all was clear.
Do you have your video (yellow) connected to the flight controller to display OSD? Tie them together (no OSD info temporarily) and see if that's it..
I had a Betafpv board that constantly gave me fits and I replaced it with a Matek FC and all was good.
@@PropsOff I tied the signals together, like you said, and tried different cameras, the stripes are still there. I'm running the unify pro hv, tried with lc filter with a cap on output, no cap, no lc, cap on vtx 5v out the camera, changed vtx, changed sma tail and antenna, completely isolating video from the rest of the quad, and nothing changed. It does seem to be a problem on the cam or 5v out side, when I unplug the cam and have only the vtx outputting (gray screen) it's perfectly clear. I have a racer with the same setup (unify vtx and foxeer mini/micro) and it's always had this problem too
@@killere1587
This is terrible. Sounds like you have done everything possible. This may seem silly, however, have you flown in a different area? An area free of obstacles and possible WIFI or network interference..
Email me pictures. Like top, bottom, all sides. Clear and lit up so I can see the wiring. If you can, remove the top plate.
YOU'RE A LEGEND
Lol, I appreciate your enthusiasm and support...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Thank you so much I just did this, and I have the best video I've ever had. I post on reddit asking for help. They all just criticized me. Only one comment had any help.
I appreciate your feedback. I spent so much time messing with it and have all my quads set up, using my method - except my Matek quads...🤔 Interestingly enough, the filtration on their F405 and F22SE is most excellent. Super glad this got you clean video as well..
Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
@@PropsOff Yessir
hi. I think I get it now. 'some' boards might(?) have broken or improper traces for GND. what I suspect is you have tied the analog(from the video pads) & digital GND(the usual GND for uarts), making it solid. 👍
I do suspect, a few boards I've used are more susceptible to noise. I have a Spedix stack from years ago and it has no redundant grounds. It doesn't even have a capacitor; Its video is perfect. Everything shown here is for analog video systems. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
will the smaller matek versions do this? I have a large matek that works great for cleaning feed... but this floss build has about as much room as a buzzer board has... definitely can't fit that full size hub you got there.
It should, your talking about the 5/9v BEC?
Here we go the run camp Phoenix exact same camera I'm having issues with
What are the extra connections for ??
@@pacman5511 there's a push button remote that you can plug in to adjust the settings of the camera
I lover your mind! Before I came across this I was tearing into my 7 again to try get the best quality analog as possible . I would of went this wrought. I love the idea of powering the FC direct to bat instead of the ESC ribbon cable ? but is not a voltage regulator in the ESC to run the FC ? I run 6S . My last mod was running ground and power to cam from VTX direct and big difference . But still get a mild shimmering horizontal bars like a striped shirt. The bars are transparent , its weird. Maybe there for life . I will testify I have 6 cams of all makes and my Runcam delivers the best view Quality of them all . I think the guts inside some cams are better. Admit I;m a noob but I have OCD lol Enjoyed this thanks !!!!
I don't run any 6s currently. Everything I have is 4S that I've done this method on. I've seen wifi and crossfire cause horizontal lines, not sure. I prefer to power the FC independently from the ESC..
Thank you. I enjoyed your explanation, I have a similar setup so will be try out your wiring ideas. Subscribed for more !
Thank you for checking out my channel and subscribing! Do let me know how things work out too...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
glad I found this video because I am sick of having shitty video when I knew there had to be a better way
It's so much better now.. I'm still going strong. One side effect of this is cooler components - Win..Win!
I appreciate your feedback...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Propsoff to you sir
Well, thank you... Very kind...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Great video, I been having trouble with my video. I wonder if using a pdb which has both 12v, 5v regulators and battery voltage out would do the same. Run vtx from 12v, camera from 5v and flight contoller from battery. Been looking at the matek mini power hub with has 30.5mm mounting holes
Let me know your results, if you would. The method in this video is the final result of many hours of testing different methods.
Your videos have helped me a lot with some flickering OSD and noise issues on a Tyro 119 I built, and I just realized I should try powering my FC off the battery pads as well, because I get momentary video blackouts after fast flips and rolls. I also just moved my camera ground wire so that it goes into the same plug as the signal wire, instead of going to the VTX. I think I'm close to getting it all sorted out. One thing I've done differently is that I'm not currently running the VTX off battery voltage, but from the 10V VTX pad on the FC. I tried running it off a 9V Matek BEC from the battery, but for some reason things got a lot worse. I probably didn't have the right redundant ground going for that, or something.
Thank you for checking out my channel and subscribing! Thank you.. Glad things are getting sorted out. 10v bec on the FC, which FC is that? I used the 12v Matek Lc/bec and had to run the extra ground to the cam pad.
It's funny, I added the Runcam DVR board to get clean footage (for the very few that wanted to see me fly), and introduced a little noise back into my fpv feed. Probably will remove it soon after a couple more rips...
It's an Eachine Tyro 129 F4 GPS FC that came with the build kit. I've been using that build as a way to learn about all this stuff, since it is so inexpensive. I don't have much fear taking it apart and putting it back together a lot, soldering and trying new things on it, like the redundant ground system. I'm about to do my first build from scratch with parts I selected, and the practice working on the Tyro 119 has given me the confidence to know I can figure it out.
@@Perforator2000
That sounds like a very logical plan. Nothing like distorting a $150 stack due to lack of understanding, I know...
thank you dude, I subscribed because of this video
I'm glad you liked it and I appreciate your feedback. Welcome to the PropsOff family! Enjoy the breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
I also have a shitty 20*20 mamba stack. I tried many things before (putting caps, powering cam from vtx, that solve the noise issue but not the flic), but the only thing that worked was putting the 3 redundant grounds that were discussed in this video. And powering the vtx from the lipo, but that was the case already (esc passthrough before). I did everything at once, so not sure what did the trick. Anyway, thanks for the tips, I was pretty desparate. It's still a noisy build in terms of gyro filtering, but at least I don't have the flickering osd no more. I put it on a 7inch though, maybe that's just too much for the f40 mamba esc.
it's not completely gone, but only on very high throttle it appears
@@rubenvaneupen7327
7 inch..what motors? Is the lipo sagging too low in upper throttle maneuvers?
This kind of issue can be one of the trickiest and sometimes you just have to try every approach. I have an interesting example on an RC car. I have two cameras back to back front and rear. They share the same length of wiring. They are wired into a 20A relay where the front cam is on the NC and the rear is on the NO so I can hold a button to momentarily switch the feed to the rear camera. There is then a short run from the relay common to the VTX input. Even though these are identical cameras which both share the same wiring and have that wiring strapped together in one bundle, only the front camera experiences the lines from motor noise. I suspect that it could be a few things.. but at first glance it seems like a really counterintuitive issue.
i know it kind of old video.. but i was interested what will be the video like if you connected 2 BECs separately for each the cam and vtx? will it be better?
Interestingly enough, manufacturers still don't get it and I still wire all my analog quads this way. I have not isolated the VTX from the camera. I'd be interested in the outcome. Seems overkill, considering the video is crystal clear now; Still, if you do it, I want to know...🍻
Just did it , and it fixed an old problem which was whooply lines after plugging the battery ,, Thx for that Video i appreciate your time making it@@PropsOff
@@Moustafa-Eldessouki
That's awesome news...🍻
Great video. just what i needed. been getting terrible video lately and need to get it sorted as i wont be going to dji.....(yet)
Very happy to hear this helped.. I appreciate your feedback! Will be a long time till I can bank the hobby funds for DJI.. Lol...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but do any of these wiring tips apply to me if I have my camera powered from my FC instead of my VTX? I ask because it looked like a lot of the things you did relied on the camera getting power from the VTX. Also, can I just connect any ground pad on the FC to the battery ground to help the thin ground wire on the connector? Or does it have to be a certain one? Thanks!
I like running a ground to the "CAM ground" wire were ever it is. Also, twisting the ground around the camera wires helped (just cut the ground wire 2 times longer than the camera signal wires - ensuring the length of said wires are less or more than 32.8mm if running a 2.4ghz system).
Do i need a voltage regulator if my vtx accepts voltage input more than my vbat?
Great question. Yes.
The BEC is used to isolate and filter the FPV video gear...🍻
@propsoff love your videos a few have really helped me out. Would a 5v/9v regular work just as good or do i need a 12v? I want to tey this on my apeedybee f405 stack witha rushfpv tank 2 ultimate. I am mainly want to try and fix a disapearing OSD ....thanks!!
A lower voltage bec is fine, as long as the VTX minimum is being exceeded. I like going in the middle of the range. For example, a VTX that is listed 2S - 4S, I like 12v.. A 9v works perfectly fine too..
@@PropsOff that's what I was thinking. Thanks for the quick reply!!
@@blaw_9246
Heck Yeah.. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Thanks, very well explained!
I appreciate your encouragement...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Basically your powering your vtx via a linear regulator on your bec.
The only issue is you will loose video if your vbat ever drops below 12v so only any good for 4s plus setups.
Yes, you are correct. If you want to run a 3s setup, get the Matek 5-9v BEC and jump the 9v pads..
@@PropsOff Do you think getting a dedicated bec will help when i already power my vtx from my Mamba f405 fc bec?
@@LosAngeles234
I now seen your comment, TH-cam's notification software is horrible! Anyway, I was running from the built in Bec on the Mamba FC and decided to remove it and move to a stand alone Bec.. Yes, it helped in a big way.
@@PropsOff Nice, thanks for the reply!
Sorry for my dumb question but my brain just doesnt want to understand this topic xD :
Im using an AIO FC for a 3s whoop build, and the video gets very snowy at takeoff + flickering OSD or rather its diappearing completly..
The cam gets powered by the FC and so does the vtx (i could power the cam from the vtx, i just have to order a jst plug, but with my last fc, also aio, there was no problem powering both from fc not perfect but not bad video).
Both components use their own 5V and ground pad. Also using a capacitor on the battery leads.
So all i have to do in my case is running an extra ground wire, like Y shaped, from my battery ground to the cam and vtx ground pads?
the vtx only takes 5v, the cam can take up to 18v. On the fc i also have an unused 10v pad. Do you think its worth a try or powering directly from the lipo would be the best way?
@@zolex5370
I read both of your comments. If the flight controller has a 10v pad, I would use it for the camera - less amps used... Yes, you can run a redundant ground from the lipo ground to all ground pads to bolster the current flow. As I show in this video, I run my VTX and Cam from an independent BEC. The flight controllers just fail to have adequate filtration (except Matek)...🍻
Thank you man, i will try it out @@PropsOff 🍻👌
@@zolex5370
Definitely, yeah its better to run the grounds and power the cam for now. If the flickering and garbage in the video won't clear up, even being an AIO, you can still follow this video to isolate the FPV portion. The matek 2-6s BEC is my go to. I actually do this process with HDzero as well. I haven't made an update video yet, but my "Super Duper Mega Ultralite.... has taken a V4 overhaul with HDzero...🤌🏻
Maybe i order some matek BECs right away, better have them than need them :D @@PropsOff
Thank you!
My pleasure...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Dudeee !!! OMG.. thanks man.. its improve my video a lot but still had a tiny bit of line in my video with no lc filter.. waiting the lc filter arrive, video should be more good in future
Glad this helped.. Mine has started to degrade and I think a new vtx is in order, they won't last forever...
Will you come back and let me know if the lc-filter cleans it all up?
@@PropsOff ya sure man why not.. you earn my subscription hehehe stay safe there buddie 😁
nice ive tried to explain to folks that esc ground isnt enough but thats them i add extra grounds
I've grown accustomed to just settin the information out there.. Lol, can't seem to tell people anything anymore.. Everybody already knows everything, Haha..
how to connect a speedybee f405 v3 with an eachine tx526 and a runcam sparrow like your sheme? I don´t get it how to get all working together with your method, would be fine if you can help me got the connection plans for everything but can´t handle it toghether
Your over complicating the process..
Your powering the analog system via a BEC..
Then you simple ground the connections (Only ground)..
Wire the BEC to the lipo leads. Then, power the VTX. The camera gets power from the VTX..
The camera connects to the flight controller with only the V-in. You need to redundant the ground for that connection...
Then redundant the ground for the ground from the camera pad to the ground pad of the VTX - on the flight controller..
Then a ground strap from the main ground pad of the flight controller directly to the ground of the lipo.
Your basically grounding everything twice because the BEC, VTX, and Cam is isolated from the Flight Controller..
*Note: Because we have to run the video through the OSD chip on the flight controller, we have to ground all the ground connections to clear the video noise ...
The main ground could be the USB ground stubs too.. Really, we need a heavy ground for them to all go to.. Electrical current and EMF follows the path of least resistance.. Unfortunately, when these manufacturers made parts smaller and smaller and CHEAPER!, it introduced a ton of noise into the video. Grounding all these connections to a "real" ground is the key...🍻
Thank you for the quick answer. Is it possible just to connect all grounds togehter without a bec directly from the lipo like in ur other video? i can´t find the right BEC to buy and in ur other video u also got no extra BEC ? can i just do it like i´ll show u on fb?
@@PropsOff
@@timwandtke2791
The isolation of the video system is important, however, prior to doing so cleared it pretty well.. You can do as I did in the previous video and then add the redundancy of grounding the components. I found the LC of the BEC made it perfect though...🍻
So I've always ran the mamba f405 stack on multiple builds and never dealt with much camera noise. Well I just hooked up an iflight esc to the mamba fc and man did I have such bad noise. Heard about running another ground and instantly helped a ton, but I'm still getting some noise, including the darkening effect you were talking about. That's how ended up here. Point being, maybe the esc has quite a bit to do with the noise, and we should avoid mix matching FC and ESC's?
I have a few quads with mixed ESCs and no issues. Not sure yet why some are just noisy. Wish I had the funds to really test and tinker.
I Gave it a Full Watch Brother and learned something I am over busted video Feed not ready for DJI just yet altho I have been testing on some V2 Goggles So Thank You for Sharing this I will wire mine just the Same
It has made not going digital easier, lol.. I've got 6 or 7 wired like this now.. So clear.. Thanks for your feedback. Means a lot coming from you...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
So your running your vtx straight from the battery then you are running you camera from the vtx also your running your fc straight from battery also ? Right
- Lipo to Matek BEC
- BEC to VTX
- VTX to FCer
- Camera to VTX
- Redundant ground to each component to create a common ground of least resistance. Also, there's a capacitor between the lipo connection and BEC.
Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
I connected an extra ground wire from the esc board to FC, and jumped that wire to cam ground and then jump from cam ground to the vtx ground. I still have huge flickers and noise, my camera is powered by FC not vtx. what do u think the problem might be, Bad antennas . My goggles is Eachine vd800d.
Thanks a lot❤
My pleasure...🍻
@@PropsOff sir I have another drone without those kind of flight controller It’s a dji naza m lite flight controller so I have to directly wire it to the battery without going through the flight controller can you make a small short video about how to make connections for that. I really need that kind of clear video feedback. Please help!🥹
@@travelsvlog144
It would be nearly identical to this method. Run the BEC off the lipo to power your VTX and run the camera off the VTX. Run a redundant ground for the camera. This will isolate your FPV gear, and you'll be good to go..🍻
Thank you SO much for making and sharing this mate 🙏
Your feedback means more to me than you know.. I'm glad it helped you too...🍻
@@PropsOff it’s changed my experience from headache inducing to total clarity 👍🤜🏻🤛🙂
@@bugsy742
Most excellent...👍🏻👊🏻🍻
Im getting really really bad snow like effect that grows with the throttle to the point where I can't see anything at all . You did good explaining everything but idk if it will help my problem. I was told I might need to drop another capacitor in line somewhere but idk where that would be.
Sounds like more than motor noise interference. You should have decent flyable video and this video is to clean it up to nearly perfect. Double caps aren't really the answer.. Look for shorts, wrong channel, something rubbing through the motor wires, unfortunately, many things cause snow in your video. Can you post a video and drop a link?
So I just put in a 5v-9v regulator to power my camera to isolate it from the FC didn't do much. Should I wire the regulator to my vtx and power my camera from the vtx or just add another regulator to power the vtx
Hi, great video it has helped quite a bit however, I have an issue that I’m hoping you can help me with.
My fpv feed breaks up at about 5 meters on my hglrc Zeus nano 350 mw vtx, is this normal?
I’ve tried changing the output power and I can’t figure out why everyone else with this vtx is getting a much better fpv feed.
Help would be much appreciated. 👍
I have a half dozen Zeus Nanos, great VTX.. Your scenario does not seem normal. I assume that you are running the correct IRCTramp VTX protocol.
If you downloaded that Table from somewhere, did you check to make sure "low power mode" is off, and "pit mode" is off, and that the device says ready (in the right corner of the VTX tab in Betaflight)?
@@PropsOff thanks for your reply, I’ll make sure to check those things out.
Do you know how I can check if my vtx is on low power mode?
I’m using irc tramp protocol, and have a table set out already. Where do you get your table from?
I checked cli, types Get Vtx and the power output says 1-7 which is obviously not right because there are 4 power levels.
So I think the vtx table is wrong. If you have the correct table, pls help me find it.
@@joeasciutto5770
You can open Betaflight, go to the VTX tab, look at the left side and see the information. It will have the band, channel, power, low power, pit mode.. You can set everything there and also customize the power output levels at the bottom. Do make sure (on the right side) "Device Ready" says yes...
betaflight.com/docs/wiki/archive/VTX-Tables
@@PropsOff thanks Ill check that out
@@PropsOff hi sorry to bother you again but I took off my capacitor and my video feed is much better,
How could this be, I thought the capacitor is meant to make you quad better?
awesome video thank you for taking your time to make it
Jamie, your welcome.. Its helped more people than I thought it would, and it's still the way I do things.. I just wrapped up testing, just this week, on and AIO 35amp Whoop Toothpick board. I did this to it as well.. If you want, watch my newest video to see the results coming from a whoop camera...LOL!
This is very useful to me, thank you :). I am just wondering if it would have been even easier to just attach all the grounds (Camera, VTX, and the regulator) simply to the same, shared pad on the FC instead of running those jumper wires? In my mind it would have given the same result if I am not mistaken?
I thought the same. I experimented and had different results. There are components in line and if you try a common ground the video is garbage.
In testing, I also removed one by one and the video suffered. I messed with this for a year and got my video crystal - finally!
Odd thing is, I dont have to do any of this to any of my Matek flight controllers.
@@PropsOff Good to know :) Thank you for putting so much work into this research and sharing the knowledge. Really awesome
@@napfpv6239
I have never loved a hobby as I do this one. If at all possible I can make someone else enjoy it as I do, I feel awesome..
I appreciate your feedback...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
You're the man thanks 😊
Any time.. I appreciate your continued support...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
I get black screen and no osd when I full throttle with a 6s lipo.
With a 4s my feed is clean.
Do you think these solutions will fix the problem?
Thanks
Absolutely should.
This video is isolating the VTX and cam from the rest of the power system..
Make sure you have a low esr capacitor to if you don't already
So what made the largest improvement. The lc filter? Also. Why not power the fc from the esc?
I chose not to power the FC form the ESC in the beginning of my "Better FPV" journey to minimize the EMF able to enter the FC. I also like direct connections instead of the 4 pins involved with the hot and ground in this plug.. the largest improvement was the redundant ground. The BEC has filtering on it, so I call it second, including a good 680uf capacitor.. The combination of all these things really made the difference. I actually removed one component (to include a single ground wire) and flew it to see if it changed. I did this to remove wasted effort and weight. I was a little surprised at how finicky this FC was. I have all the parts to build a sister to this quad.. Same motors and frame, however individual ESCs and a Matek F405 standard flight controller. I will be using a vtx and camera previously tested.. Will be cool to see if I can get excellent fpv feed from it as well.. Stay tuned...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
All grounds on the fc are already connected so wondering why you connect them extra.
The curciut ground traces and their paths are not significant enough. These are redundant. I added each wire, flew, removed, flew, and added back to evaluate changes. This video shows the final outcome from 9 months of my best results.
@@PropsOff Ok, that's thorough and dedicated :)!
Very nice video and explanation. Subbed
Thank you for checking out my channel and subscribing! I appreciate your kind feedback...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
@@PropsOff just started with the hobby and this video was very interesting. So, when I am going to build my first own Copter I will take this into consideration. Especially the option to disable the vtx is awesome and will be very handy when the quad is on the bench with battery attached to the FC.
@@aglandorf75
I must have the ability to turn off the vtx and camera. There is a device called a "Realpit". It is extremely small and really cool to use for any switch. I have the instructions to install one on my channel (just in case your vtx doesn't have the ability).
Do you do all this on all your builds now
I do if they have these issues. I haven't needed to do this to any of my Matek flight controllers though...🤔
Well that's weirdly interesting
i think this is the second time ive watched this video and now it actually sticks since i have been doing the basic wiring vtx power from fc and camera power from fc... butt my 6inch racer has the flicking osd on higher throttle so i will look into implementing this strategy !!
I had terrible video on my 5incher running 2306 2400kv Strix motors pushed by an F55A Pro II ESC on 4s. I like to full punch a lot and flickering osd, squiggly lines, dimming image, etc. every time is so freakin annoying. I love my fpv feed and I believe everyone that has done this has had good (maybe not perfect) results.. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
So basically it is only Need stabil voltage. How about dc to dc step up... Wil it gonna be okey too..?
That's interesting.. So your saying to step up the 5v pad from the flight controller to power the camera and vtx?
I'm worried there wouldn't be adequate amperage.
@@PropsOff im using power distribution board... Well thats im gonna try... 😅.. I have 10v from pdb.. Then with step up.. Going to be 12 volt... To Vtx.
Anyway how many ampere do we need
@@siogana
Depending what your running.. I would say minimum 1A..
@@siogana
Not sure, but this may help..
th-cam.com/video/iaFBHkgNt4M/w-d-xo.html
Connecting the vtx to the internal bec at 9v or 12v in the flight controller(when it has one) instead of putting the extra regulator, should do similar results right? I'm planning to do this on my first 5'' and connecting the vtx and camera ground to the same pad. I have it like this on my beta75x and my geprc cinepro and the video is really good
I had originally used the 9v supplied by the FC and decided to run an external BEC.. I found the external to be very clean and better at handling noise..
@@PropsOff maybe internal becs vary their quality from model to model too.. I'll have to test that.
I'm planning to buy the diatone mamba f722 stack with 60A ESC. It should be similar to yours I think
@@DiogoFilipeR
I'm running the same flight controller, this is the Mamba F722.. I just like the Tmotor F55A Pro II ESC due to it durability and 10 Seconds of full up throttle.. Let me know, I only have Mamba ESCs on my 20x20 3incher stuff..
@@PropsOff that t-motor seems really good, I have it on the list of possible combinations. But I found that mamba stack and it seems pretty good too. Do you prefer the t-motor esc to the mamba with 60A included in the stack?
my list for now: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1wsUfkFxfvJHV4dGRo39nh0e4rNOTe4x8ckiytNTrGgE/edit?usp=sharing
Anybody know about Light coax cables for fpv wiring? I saw a vid before but cant find it
I used to use it, its just too much of a hassle. Are you referring to RG316 Rf coaxial?
@@PropsOff I think it was a silicon coaxial. I was under the impression that electrical noise in fpv was becuase of the wiring taking on intereferance, seems now its mostly from the electrical grounding issue.
@@airmanfpv964
Seems so... In the beginning of FPV, nearly all the components were seperate and lots of wires. As more devices became one or two boards, the grounding became smaller and smaller. Problem is, the current got bigger and bigger and the demand for a bigger ground became ever more needed. FPV manufacturers seem to have forgotten the 101 of electronics - "Path of least resistance"...🍻
Can i use a normal voltage regulator? Cant fin a matek in Germany for 6s
I like the filtration of the Matek, however, any BEC with LC-FILTER should work. Just make sure the outputting amps is enough. I have seen some 0.5amp ones and that won't work. A BEC rated 1.5+ is better..
Thank you. www.amazon.de/dp/B0178DWZZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_i_PVYATB5FWQSFEKCRARP5
This seems to have an LC filter. But there is nothing in the product description. It has an inductor and several capacitors.
@@Eraser2k6
I think I remember looking at this one. Isn't it very large? Apologies, born in Germany but can not read it..
@PropsOff it is not that large. Its about 22x16mm. I have enough room in my nazgul5 frame. But im not to 100% shure it has an lc filter.
@@Eraser2k6
Look for something else.
I'm happy to look at what you find. Can you order from a place in the USA like Pyrodrone?
(I have this problem) Crazybee f3 frsky fc.....If your video-out pad was burnt off on your flight controller, how would you wire up the camera to get OSD? If that's possible...Thanks for sharing!
You can trace the osd pad back to a place to solder and jumper. Soldering skills would have to be tight.
@@PropsOff I consider myself to have great solder skills but not sure how and where the OSD is running on the board. Could I just run wire to video-in without using video-out?
Thanks!
Do you have the link to the regulator please, just thought I would buy the same as, cheers
www.racedayquads.com/products/matek-2-5s-7-21v-to-5v-or-12v-micro-bec?currency=USD&variant=31467742101617&gclid=CjwKCAjw6qqDBhB-EiwACBs6xx2ax0tit7fIBsW0dGoSMDWSRjIfvVAkaaI6eAfjed6AGAGlJexYoxoCehUQAvD_BwE
Can u do for aio board?
Yes, I just released a video tonight that utilised one.. I may do an overview later...🍻
@@PropsOff wow cool
So it only applies to the same fc?
No, I've been applying this to any FC that shows video noise. I've even done it to AIO boards...🍻
@@PropsOff I have big noise on matek f405wmn I put caps and LC filter and noise still here
@@Chris-vc1dh
Have you tried a different camera?
Every now and then I get esc noise (faint horizontal lines appear on screen) and then my osd disappears for a second then the noise disappears and the osd comes back. How would I fix this?
Sounds like (if you already did this) your camera my have issues. I had a Runcam Phoenix II that did exactly what your saying. I changed it out and issues gone.
@@PropsOff I just have the cam connected to FC and powered by FC. Vtx powered by FC.
@@madladdan
Ok,... If you follow the instructions in this video, you'll most likely clear your issues.
@@PropsOff Im busy powering Cam from vtx and connecting common ground from cam to vtx to fc. video to FC for osd
will let you know if it works
Hey man, my esc had no BEC and my fc support 50 volt, does the 5v 12v BEC support my components?
The Matek 5-12v BEC I'm using is rated for use up to 21v. I run 4s and 5s quadcopters. You will need to look at Matek's larger (up to 60v) Bec.
I have a question how I will know if my camera got damage because I don't have a picture when I turn on the drone .I took it from another drone is a caddx ratel.the pads where I have wire it on the flight controller are ok I have the ground, the 10v and the yellow wire I have it on the cam.
What does the goggles show when it's plugged in (props off)?
Hello?
@@PropsOff it don't show anything . Also I have the little ⌚monitor and also do not show anything. I did order another camera just in case this one got damage but im going to keep troubleshooting I think there is something wrong. But right now I have to go to bed . I have to wake-up early 😩.
@@h2o-fpv623
Is the screen snow or black?
@@PropsOff it jump from snow to black and then back again to snow.
Thank you!!!
My LC filter is from IFlight...mine look soo plain.. Yours all beefed up with all those resistor, cap,etc... what brand is that?
Matek
www.racedayquads.com/products/matek-2-5s-7-21v-to-5v-or-12v-micro-bec?variant=31467742101617¤cy=USD&
+1👍 💪 thanks for this, i plan to add redundant ground for osd asap. i have flannel shirts 😹
I appreciate your feedback. I really put some time in testing this and is a game changer for me. Some of my chapter members using HD have even said it looks amazing. Do let me know your experiences please...🍻
@@PropsOff dang man, i looked at all 3 of mine. i built them so long ago, forgot my vtx powered from FC, not lipo (they can't take 6S). cams powered from vtx's, so there's that. so technically vtx is already grounded to fc. guess that's about the best i can do without converting to a regulator. :( i have seen some people put small capacitor on vtx, maybe i scavenge some small caps.
Cool I'm going todo hybrid add lc filter and ground vtx camera fc to ground off battery best of both with out jumping ground all over board all grounds go to battery ground like a harness cheer for help I let you know how it goes when got time to try it wed Thurs my.next days off
Interestingly enough, I added a jumper and flew the quad. Then, I removed that jumper and flew the quad. The wiring is a final result of many months of testing.. Good luck...🍻
awesome voice
Denny, I do very much appreciate your complement. I hear many descriptions of it and wonder if it's likable. Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
@@PropsOff it is 😇😇
Great video my friend... But the fact that you had to carry over your grounds like that show that mamba flight controller is not the best. Using a good voltage regulator should always clean up your video feed at least a little bit. 👌🏼
I don't need to do this to any of my Matek flight controllers, so I concur.. I appreciate your encouragement and feedback...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
I'm going to try it I'll let you know how it works
I appreciate your feedback.. I have rigged another quad as so, and amazing.. I'm easily excited I guess.
Hey buddy. I powered my Iflight blitz f7 directly from battery voltage. But the Iflight blitz stack has 2 bat and 2 grounds in the main bus line. So, I got rid of both the red wires in my stack plug, but now.......when I power up I am getting zero battery voltage. It is displayed in OSD, but it indicates zero, which cannot be correct. Any suggestions for me would help. I think it has something to do with those 2 batt and 2 ground pins, but not sure
I'm not quite understanding what you've done. So you removed both power leds to the flight controller? How are you powering it?
@@PropsOff i am running a power lead straight from the lipo(xt60), so i didnt need the power leads in the wire harness. But now, i am not getting a voltage reading
@@PropsOff maybe i need one of those power leads from the main stack harness
@@ifeetz7612
The ESC telemetry going to the FC should give that information.
@@ifeetz7612
Probably best to run the correct bus wires. Isolation of the video is all your really after, correct?
Liked subbed and shared.
Thank you for the share.. Much appreciated!
I appreciate your support and welcome to the PropsOff family...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
FYI a simple shortcut to this is to just put all grounds on the same ground pad. I can attest that everything he's telling you is valid and will make a noticeable improvement. But you'll get most of the way there just putting all your video system grounds on the same pad.
If you were paying attention, I do say that I removed and replaced every single wire, flying in between movements, and each time it made a difference. Do you remember me saying that? I disagree about the shortcuts your mentioning here, especially on the Mamba flight controller.
I have a separate video that shows a redundant ground and how much it helps. It's significant 4shO, however, I went much farther. Interestingly enough, the Matek F405 flight controllers, I'm using, do not have video issues. At least not like the others Im running. Lol, I wanted perfection and "most of the way" wasn't were I wanted to stop..
Enjoy the Breeze...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
P.S. Big fan of Smashing Pumpkins, cool led gates and nice rip...👍🏻
@@PropsOff I confess to skipping around and may have missed that. I actually did this exact same experiment a few years back. Before they had those nice little PCBs, I used some small buck inverters. Like you, I found this to be the end all solution for ultra clean video. I also came to the same conclusion that Mamba's have inherently crummy video while the Mateks are much better (I too swear by the F405-CTR). I only mentioned my shortcut because the extra wiring and components will turn off racers. But the halfway solution is better than nothing with no added weight or complexity. This is a great video with great depth and detail. Thanks. And I'm glad you like the gates (and the Pumpkins). That finish gate is an old jump house LOL. Works perfect!
@@dutchfpv7010
I agree.. If racers want way better video but are more concerned with weight your on it.. I wish I had the means to design and make my own FC.. Matek is my go to for now.
@@dutchfpv7010 @DutchFPV Same pad in my case would be the black lipo wire then? As the vtx is powered from the lipo (via the esc input paths), and the cam is powered from the vtx.
I have speedybee FC and they do this bad on my 7".
I have all my quads wired this way..
If you would please, keep me posted about your experience. I would enjoy your thoughts and feedback...🍻
tldr; one common ground
Nice
Hey Val..!
One tip!
Do not run any wires over the FC ever! The gyro will feel those vibrations from everything including the wires slamming on the gyro chip! That's even dangerous!
K
I would have thought winding the power wire with the signal would have caused interference but I was wrong
Really isn't enough current running through the power wire for the camera to generate interfering EMF. I have gone through a few other quads that had troubled video and put this method to the test and they are nearly flawless now.. Makes flying so much better...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
@@PropsOff I am so pissed I never come across your channel sooner, I have been flying for almost 6 years now and I am of the same opinion. need better video feed. Just stripped down my best 5" and re wiring, just want this to work. Cheers
@@madforit9661
If your video has a little unwanted noise in it and your setup is like mine, I'm confident it's going to clear you up..
I appreciate your feedback and encouragement...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Just thought I would give you an update. Followed what you did on the re wire to the T. on my fav 5" . Jesus I went flying today, well I went to test it. Bloody amazing. Going to re wire my other drones, got Bec's on order. Thanks
@@madforit9661
I'm so happy it helped.. There are a few people that this drastically improved their video. Thanks for returning feedback...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Oi
I am going to wire mine just like this! Do I need a different filter for 6s, than the one you are using for 4s?
Yes, the BEC im using is rated to 5S. You will need one that is rated to 8S..
I've been using these currently...🍻
www.mateksys.com/?portfolio=mbec6s