Honestly, I somehow really like those busy images, especially the one with the leaves and the waterfall. Absolutely amazing. I like simplicity with my longer lenses, but I don't desire simplicity with every focal length. In fact, busy images like that makes me look at them longer to study each part individually. It's like a short movie. Simple images look amazing sometimes, but you kind of just look at the main subject, admire it, but then there's nothing else to look at. Most people seem to disagree with this view, and that's fine.
So much useful info in one video! I love my Sigma 8-16 mm for crop sensor, but my results are often hit or miss. Your tips will help. A couple of thoughts on filters for ultra wide lenses. First, your viewers should understand that polarizing filters generally do not work well. The polarization varies with sun angle, so the effect will vary drastically across any images. Also, for Canon users, the r series mirror less cameras have an ef lens adapter that allows a filter to be inserted behind the lens - cheaper than your solution and only one set of filters needed.
Mark, I love your todays video. Mostly 'cause of your very sympathetic appearance on screen but certainly also for your valuable content. You are one of my first TH-camr I started to follow when getting into photography. Thanks for being out there and sharing your experiences with us.
I use a Sigma 10-20mm 4-5.6 and it has opened my mind to a whole new world where everything is in focus! The distortion aspect is fascinating where I need to angle the lens to get straight lines!
In November the hub and I went off on a hike in the smokys and I mistakenly grabbed my UWA lens to take along and a telephoto. After reviewing that day’s photos I learned all these very issues too! I just thought I didn’t understand my lens enough! You shed a whole lot of light on these issue and gave them a name. Thanks Mark great video as alway!😊
It's funny how much of a difference a couple mm of focal length can be! A big difference from a regular wide angle and an ultra wide angle. Thanks for checking out the video Jackie.
Oh so true - all of these 5 issues are something I've become familiar with shooting the Olympus 7-14Pro lens on my EM1ii. However, as you say these are all things that can be managed and I have to say the ultra-wide angle lens has become my favourite lens for landscape particularly where you can find a good foreground element. The only other issue you didn't mention which has become an issue for me is when you're shooting waterfalls you invariably get much closer to the falls and that bulbous front element gets a whole lot wetter - so keeping the lens clear and shooting longer than few seconds in front of waterfalls is always a challenge!
A friend of mine was saying she didnt like Rush because they use all the skills in every song and make changes obvious... she says too hard to listen to. The photo with the triangles and rocks, red leaves on the bottom and yellow leaves on top, and waterfall on the right with your statement that it's not the easiest to look at made me think of my friend's comment. Then I giggled that super-wides are the Rushes of lenses.
I ran exactly into the same problem with my tamron 15-30mm, it's just too hard to find filters. But one day i found about Benro Filters, they are hard to find but oh wow how impressed i am not only by the cost (they are cheaper than nisi and lee) but by the quality.... almost to none color shift or quality loss... they are my go to filters now.
"I totally agree" is one thing that comes in mind every time i watch your videos. you just make sense!!! that being said, i can't understand why you don't "play" a little with panoramas. you can use an arguably sharper lens, take the same photo a bit wider and then crop in a little to get rid of the soft corners.
I have also found using circular polarizers with ultra-wide angle lenses to be problematic. The angle of view is so great that the sky darkening effect is often not even across the frame. I thought I had defective equipment briefly before it dawned on me what was going on.
I have a Tokina 11-16mm from when I had a DX camera. I use with my Nikon d750, which has an Auto DX setting to shoot DX with a DX lens. I like it for grabbing stormy skies, but it is good for sunsets, sunrises. Got some interesting sundog over the Canadian tundra shots with it last year. I sometimes crop for a more panoramic size shot of a landscape when the sky is less interesting.
Hi Mark, I've watched several of your videos starting last year, have to say you are EXCELLENT! Ive certainly learned a lot, and have a new Canon 10-18mm on its way to me this week. Keep the vids coming!
I used the X-T3 with the 10-24mm f4 for landscapes and can agree that the lens does struggle quite a bit in the corners. The 8-16mm f2.8 does perform slightly better but the price tag is enormous, then there's the filters that I would need to cover that glass without any vignetting. When my camera died I was thinking about getting the X-T4 with the 8-16mm f2.8 and the filter holder. The filters I need are the cpl, the 3, 6 & 10 stop, this would cost me $7037 Australian. That's insane in my opinion for a crop camera, 1 lens and 4 filters. I ended up getting the Nikon Z6ii with the 14-30mm f4. The lens can take screw on filters so I saved big time in the filter department. The Nikon kit ended up costing $6239, $800 less than what it would cost to buy the Fuji kit new. For $800 less, I'm getting a bigger sensor with better low light capabilities and more dynamic range, and a sharper and lighter setup.
Very much enjoy all your videos as I did this one. But the video has a bonus for me. And that was your T-shirt. Having been here in Texas for the past 43 years, I miss my high school years living in eastern North Carolina. Your shirt has Ocracoke, NC on it. I miss the many times we took the long ferry ride out to Ocracoke Island lighthouse and then on up to the outer banks. I'm thinking I need to plan a trip back out that way. I have several "snapshots" of my time there, but now I need to go get some "photographs". Thanks again for all you do.
I wood like to see in one of your future videos what sees a croped sensor camera and what sees a full frame camera using the same lens to see the difference and understand if it's necessary to get a full frame to have better quality results, thank you
I had the same issue when trying to get a CPL for my xf 8-16. ended up buying Kase's kit as it's magnetic, but the 150mm NDs are just absurdly expensive
I would call these challenges and not problems. Since I also shoot with Fuji love to see comparisons at similiar focal lengths of the same composition to see the difference in smearing int he corners between Fuji's two ultra-wides - say at 10 and 13mm.
Another informative video Mark! I love in your videos that you not only give the "positive" side to products or techniques but also the somewhat "negative" side. I like that you say its "your" view and that everyone is different instead of trying to push your views as being the only or right view. ALWAYS a pleasure watching your videos mate and ALWAYS a thumbs up given 👍
Thank ya buddy! I find there's usually pros and cons to most things - nothing's perfect and I very run across anything that's completely horrible either!
Hello Mark, a very apt tutorial for me, as I have just purchased the Samyang f2/8 AF 14mm prime lens. Just have to manage this Focus - Peaking thing lol
I own a nikon 14-30 f4 and as I look back into my images, it turns out that I've never (may be 3 times at most) gone below 18mm over the last year that I've owned this lend... TIL ! Thanks to this gentle nudge video!
Could not agree more with the cost on 150mm Filter Holders.... My wide lens is the 14-24 2.8 Sigma Art... almost never need ND's but I did need that polarizer. I was lucky and found that same NISI one you have on some kind of auction on E-Bay and it was from Adorama - I thought it was weird but whatever - you could just send them an offer. Offered them $199 and they took it... Looked brand new when I got it. So I got lucky. Enjoy your work Mark...
Hi Mark, great video. For me one of the most important things about my 14-24mm Nikon is also it’s astro landscape use. When you go to Iceland or Norway it’s great to have one wide angle that doubles for Astro and Landscape. I heard the Fuji 8-16 is very good for Astro also.
Oops! I just bought a Wide Angle 10-24 mm. This was before I heard you talk about the smear effect. Oh, well...live and learn. I'm sure I will enjoy it when I use it in Kona next month. :
TBH I'm not a massive fan of UWA photography, so haven't invested much in this area. The widest lens I own is the Samyang/Rokinon 12mm prime - great lens - especially for the price!! Thanks for a very clear and honest look at the pros and cons of UWA - quite rare for TH-cam!!!
G’day Mark. Great ideas for an old bloke like me. I’m just happy to see your change of format turn out excellent. I haven’t see your van fit out lately.... Be safe Mate
Thanks Neville! I just may have a video out next week with an update on it:)
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Great video! I have been playing with my Sone FE 4/12-24mm ultra wide lens for quite some time. I like the variety of options it presents, but the obstacles you mentioned in this week's video are clearly noticeable.
Very interesting vid mate. Canon 24-70 (kit lens on the 6DMII) and have found it very versatile for portraits and landscape. I not sure I would like to any wider for the landscape shots. I would prefer to use the 70-200 and stitch a pano.
I'm the same way. Even though I have the 16-35 f/4, the 24-70 is usually wide enough. It's such an awesome landscape lens that I rarely take it off unless it doesn't have enough reach
Great video mark! Order a 7-14mm (micro 4/3) wich is in the mail and on it's way to me. This video fits perfect atm, good to know what problems to have to look out for! Looking forward to your next vid 😃 cheers Daniel 🇸🇯
I shoot real estate with a Sigma 12-24mm Art lens. I love this thing with one exception. I cannot shoot 12mm indoors. It distorts the edges and bends walls. 14mm is my limit indoors and the lens is great.
do you not notice the same effect with trees/mountains? curious because I considered this lens for a while but keep ending up concluding that it is way too wide for me.
@@brianbeattyphotography The natural distortion of an UW lens only comes into play when you ave close to a vertical line - like two or three feet and an enclosed space. If you are leaning against a building shooting at a mountain range, then yeah, the wall will probably distort. Step, say seven or eight feet away from the building and you won't notice anything. I hope this helps.
Great info Mark on the reason for/against buying a wide angle Lens which leads to a question I have for you .. Can you tell me why you decided to move to Fuji for your Landscape photography ? (I remember you always used to shoot with Sony) was it solely because of the better wide angle lens option ...
I know you don’t do this type of review usually but id really love to see some in the field direct comparison of 10-24 and 8-16 for overlapping focal lengths. Many of the other reviews I’ve read that when stopped down, the differences should be quite subtle, even in the corners.
The whole filter kit with the Nikon 14-24 f2.8 is the most annoying part of using that lens. I had to by a special backpack attachment just to carry the polarizing filter kit for it. My backpack looks like some Frankenstein creation because of it. That being said, its still my favorite lens.
My favorite genre is UWA... you can create some dramatic images. And when the sky is good, the UWA can make it amazing. On my APS-C camera I have 8mm fisheye, and a 10-20mm. On full frame, I have a 14-30mm. BTW... Is that a 110 camera on your desk?
Good review, Mark. I gave the 8-16 a long look, but do not have a need that justifies the added size/weight and cost of filters ($500 for just one, yikes) vs the 10-24 WR. That kind of investment seems like a good down payment on the GFX system instead.
Great images! I think the part most and myself tend to struggle with at those wide focal lengths are finding a good foreground that doesn't need to have you do focus stacking which can be challenging when you go with slower shutter speeds. Despite that I've gotten some breathtaking images with my sony 12-24 2.8 gm lens. Took me a while to find a good gnd filter that didn't induce flare 😀
Hi Mark some very useful information as always. I found it very interesting as I don't shoot much in that focal length but having listened to this I will look for situations I can try it again and see if I can be more successful that previous time. Love your channel and content many thanks Tim.
11-16mm f/2,8 I just bought a nice ND Set with 8, 64, 1000 costs 70€. I own 4 lenses so i got me 3 mounting adapters for 30€ i guess its the cheapest way. (Filter should match the biggest lens mount)
Great tips, Mark. I own an Olympus 7-14 f/2.8, which corresponds to 14-28mm full frame. I've experienced every one of these issues. Maybe that explains why most of my outdoor shots with this lens have been less than impressive. But it's fantastic for indoor spaces (churches, cathedrals). BTW, is that a Minolta 110 camera on top of that book?
Polarizer under 30- 35mm (FF) is usually a bad idea. Why? Polarizing effect depends on angle at which light is falling. At wider lenses those angles differ quite a lot so filter will not work evenly. Or, in some UWA in one place will work 100% and other 0%. You can use it to your advantage sometimes (to even sky brightness for example) but in most cases it is a big problem.
I do want to get something that wide or at least wider than the 18-105 that I have on my crop sensor Nikon. I tried to use the distortion method of exaggerating foreground subject but I haven't had much luck with the 27mm that is 35mm equivalent on this lens. I do know that some lenses have a filter thread at the back, instead of front, but that implies getting that specific size filters on top of what I already have.
2:30]. I don't know Mark, I think a nice day might have completely ruined that shot. Not a perfect shot, but the energy of the swirling waves, white foam and subtle greens, and the rugged texture and color of the rocky cove - pretty great. A nice day, a beautiful sunrise or sunset would only have served to hoover attention away from what is the subject of the picture: swirling water framed by rocks. All the horizon and distant headland are doing is orienting you relative to the composition and establishing a mood. It is probably best they are otherwise dull and interesting. 3:00] Yup, some interest out at the horizon, but all of the power, dynamism, and color from the foreground cove - eh. 3:29] Postcard-perfect-almost. Not bad. Nice color to the water, that is the best I can say. All of the power and dynamism [how he repeats himself] from the original photo non-existant. Maybe you should check the wind and tide tables too, not just your watch.
Thanks, Mark, for a really informative video. It was very helpful, even if I decided that it might be better to stick with my Samyang (Rokinon) 12mm f2 and Fuji14mm f2.8! Combined, they are lighter than the 8-16mm, they easily take filters and are still quite sharp to the corners (perhaps because they are primes). Even so, they are wide enough for nightscapes with the Milky Way. I just have to accept that certain compromises will sometimes have to be made, and that I could not get the same compositions with the coastal scenes and woodland waterfalls, both of which I liked. As a recent subscriber of your channel, it was interesting to hear where you do much of your woodland photography, which is often in deciduous areas. Because in SOUTH Carolina, there are many tall pines, according to Gram Parsons. (But there might also be an oak or two!) Look forward to watching next Wednesday's video. 😅
I've thought about getting a Laowa 9mm. Not sure how it might fair against a Fuji. I've also thought about some day trying a Sigma ART and Irix if they ever become available for X mount. Many choices!
I'm not sure what you're saying here. But do mean to relay that a zoom lens brings objects closer to the camera and wide angle does not? I guess at the same time we can say that wide angle lens can encompass a scene without having to move back, where a zoom lens would force you to maybe walk off a cliff, backing up? Just an odd presentation of problems
Great video like always Mark, love watching you're channel. Could you give me some advice please. I've been doing Photography TH-cam tutorials for about a year now and I'm wondering if it's necessary to shoot my videos in 4K or is 1080p good enough. The reason I'm asking is that until this point I've been using my Samsung S10, but I'm looking at a budget mirrorless and some are better in 1080p then 4K. Thank you Charles Niautou
Mark, thanks for great channel. Since I am switching from cropped to full frame sensor, I have to decide the wide angle lens. Should I get 12-24 or 16-35. The normal zoom lens that I already have is 24-105. I would appreciate your advice. I see you are not much into below 16mm, but again, 12-24 can go up to 24.
Good points but you missed the opportunity to discuss the fact that super wide-angles create a "sense of place", the areas between objects which not only exaggerate perspective, but are going to be largest view areas. Standard or telephoto lenses are more about capturing objects or compresses scenes. I wouldn't categorize either as problems, both are used for different areas of artistic expression. Also, Lees SW150 filter system for bulbous lenses is pricey, yes, but there are adapters for many other lenses so you are not buying a high quality filter for just one lens.
Mark, regarding use of a polarizing filter, besides the expense in obtaining such a filter for the ultra wide angle lens, isn't the main factor the variability of the sky darkness over one end of the sky to the other? I have the same problem with regular wide angle lenses, e.g. 16mm.
Mark, I have a 16-35mm nikon lens with a 77mm filter size. Do you have an idea what size circular polarizer I should get to keep away from vignetting? I was thinking a 77-82mm step up ring with an 82mm or 86mm filter. Thanks for any help you can give.
Mark, I really respect and appreciate your advice. When I buy my Fujifilm XT3, if I can only afford 1 lens for all-around photography what lens should I get.
Hi, Manny - I'd probably recommend the 10-24 - it may be a little soft in the corners but it's a great value for the money - very versatile focal length for landscape photography. Hope that helps!
Mark, I am a newbie to your channel, very informative. Getting a Canon 10-18 for my birthday. Question for you: Going to Hawaii later this year and wondering the best way to export photos since I won't have a computer with me? Could I use a card reader and export them to a Fire tablet? Thanks.
I've been endlessly pondering the purchase of the 8-16 (as it's 25% off at the moment) but the filter situation is a big hang-up for me. I don't know what to do?
Hi!, when I am on location, and I want to shoot wide, it always get this problem, the background (mountains) get smaller. What if I want to shoot wide but keep the 40mm 50mm or 85mm look. Obviously I guess this is only possibly with larger format. Or multiple shots and then photoshopped'em all. Is it another method?
Is there any pocket at the back of the lens for gel filters? I have 15mm (canon) fisheye and they made a special pocket at the back for gel filters, and I do use some UVC or IR filters there. on the other hand i do have a rokinon 8mm which is completely manual and has no pocket at the back ... but i managed to fit a filter there (by small duct tapes or pushing the filter edges into the grooves at the back of the lens) - it's not quite practical of course but experimenting and the results worth it - sometimes we have to awaken the MacGyver in us lil bit.
Mark, thanks for sharing but it leaves me with a couple of questions! I’ve been considering both the lenses in this video. I’m not sure if you’re recommending the 8-16 over the 10-24? And, if you had taken the last image with the 8-16 instead of the 10-24 would the smear effect be in that image?
Hey Michael - I think the 8-16mm is quite a bit better than the 10-24 version 1 that I have. There's now a version 2 of the 10-24, but I haven't used that one before.
What's the widest focal length you own?
8mm
11mm
17mm
For now my 24-70 f4 but I'm planning to buy a 16-35 f4. I think the 16-35 isn't so useful like the 24-70 but sometimes I really need it.
30mm
Honestly, I somehow really like those busy images, especially the one with the leaves and the waterfall. Absolutely amazing. I like simplicity with my longer lenses, but I don't desire simplicity with every focal length. In fact, busy images like that makes me look at them longer to study each part individually. It's like a short movie. Simple images look amazing sometimes, but you kind of just look at the main subject, admire it, but then there's nothing else to look at. Most people seem to disagree with this view, and that's fine.
So much useful info in one video! I love my Sigma 8-16 mm for crop sensor, but my results are often hit or miss. Your tips will help. A couple of thoughts on filters for ultra wide lenses. First, your viewers should understand that polarizing filters generally do not work well. The polarization varies with sun angle, so the effect will vary drastically across any images. Also, for Canon users, the r series mirror less cameras have an ef lens adapter that allows a filter to be inserted behind the lens - cheaper than your solution and only one set of filters needed.
Mark, I love your todays video. Mostly 'cause of your very sympathetic appearance on screen but certainly also for your valuable content. You are one of my first TH-camr I started to follow when getting into photography. Thanks for being out there and sharing your experiences with us.
Thanks so much for this - very kind of you!
I use a Sigma 10-20mm 4-5.6 and it has opened my mind to a whole new world where everything is in focus!
The distortion aspect is fascinating where I need to angle the lens to get straight lines!
I was intrigued by the clock on the wall... did quick check and seems that it stopped in June 2020 :)
Damn I've been meaning to ask the same thing for a while!
Damn I've been meaning to ask the same thing for a while!
In November the hub and I went off on a hike in the smokys and I mistakenly grabbed my UWA lens to take along and a telephoto. After reviewing that day’s photos I learned all these very issues too! I just thought I didn’t understand my lens enough! You shed a whole lot of light on these issue and gave them a name. Thanks Mark great video as alway!😊
It's funny how much of a difference a couple mm of focal length can be! A big difference from a regular wide angle and an ultra wide angle. Thanks for checking out the video Jackie.
Oh so true - all of these 5 issues are something I've become familiar with shooting the Olympus 7-14Pro lens on my EM1ii. However, as you say these are all things that can be managed and I have to say the ultra-wide angle lens has become my favourite lens for landscape particularly where you can find a good foreground element. The only other issue you didn't mention which has become an issue for me is when you're shooting waterfalls you invariably get much closer to the falls and that bulbous front element gets a whole lot wetter - so keeping the lens clear and shooting longer than few seconds in front of waterfalls is always a challenge!
A friend of mine was saying she didnt like Rush because they use all the skills in every song and make changes obvious... she says too hard to listen to. The photo with the triangles and rocks, red leaves on the bottom and yellow leaves on top, and waterfall on the right with your statement that it's not the easiest to look at made me think of my friend's comment. Then I giggled that super-wides are the Rushes of lenses.
I ran exactly into the same problem with my tamron 15-30mm, it's just too hard to find filters. But one day i found about Benro Filters, they are hard to find but oh wow how impressed i am not only by the cost (they are cheaper than nisi and lee) but by the quality.... almost to none color shift or quality loss... they are my go to filters now.
"I totally agree" is one thing that comes in mind every time i watch your videos. you just make sense!!!
that being said, i can't understand why you don't "play" a little with panoramas. you can use an arguably sharper lens, take the same photo a bit wider and then crop in a little to get rid of the soft corners.
It's something I certainly want to do more often - just haven't yet for some reason.
I like your Kodak 110 camera with the electronic flash. I had one much like that but it was black.
I have also found using circular polarizers with ultra-wide angle lenses to be problematic. The angle of view is so great that the sky darkening effect is often not even across the frame. I thought I had defective equipment briefly before it dawned on me what was going on.
I have a Tokina 11-16mm from when I had a DX camera. I use with my Nikon d750, which has an Auto DX setting to shoot DX with a DX lens.
I like it for grabbing stormy skies, but it is good for sunsets, sunrises. Got some interesting sundog over the Canadian tundra shots with it last year. I sometimes crop for a more panoramic size shot of a landscape when the sky is less interesting.
Hi Mark, I've watched several of your videos starting last year, have to say you are EXCELLENT! Ive certainly learned a lot, and have a new Canon 10-18mm on its way to me this week. Keep the vids coming!
Thanks so much David! I’ll do my best
that 10-18 is an excellent wide & light lens. It was my favorite on the 80D! Enjoy!
The photo with the low water level rocks.
I used the X-T3 with the 10-24mm f4 for landscapes and can agree that the lens does struggle quite a bit in the corners. The 8-16mm f2.8 does perform slightly better but the price tag is enormous, then there's the filters that I would need to cover that glass without any vignetting. When my camera died I was thinking about getting the X-T4 with the 8-16mm f2.8 and the filter holder. The filters I need are the cpl, the 3, 6 & 10 stop, this would cost me $7037 Australian. That's insane in my opinion for a crop camera, 1 lens and 4 filters. I ended up getting the Nikon Z6ii with the 14-30mm f4. The lens can take screw on filters so I saved big time in the filter department. The Nikon kit ended up costing $6239, $800 less than what it would cost to buy the Fuji kit new. For $800 less, I'm getting a bigger sensor with better low light capabilities and more dynamic range, and a sharper and lighter setup.
Very much enjoy all your videos as I did this one. But the video has a bonus for me. And that was your T-shirt. Having been here in Texas for the past 43 years, I miss my high school years living in eastern North Carolina. Your shirt has Ocracoke, NC on it. I miss the many times we took the long ferry ride out to Ocracoke Island lighthouse and then on up to the outer banks. I'm thinking I need to plan a trip back out that way. I have several "snapshots" of my time there, but now I need to go get some "photographs". Thanks again for all you do.
Glad to do it Daniel and thank you for checking out this week's video. The Outer Banks are a beautiful area to spend some time in.
If you can live without filters essentially the 8-16 is an awesome piece of glass. Love mine and agree it blows the doors off the so popular 10-24 f4
Despite mentioned obstacles all those images are purely magical
Thanks so much - really appreciate that!
It is reflection of the composition skills 🙂
great video! I really like that you left the mumbling parts in the video. It makes it more human and personal :)
Hahah - thank you!
I agree. Such little hiccups could theoretically detract from the presentation, but in this instance, I don't feel that they do.
I wood like to see in one of your future videos what sees a croped sensor camera and what sees a full frame camera using the same lens to see the difference and understand if it's necessary to get a full frame to have better quality results, thank you
I had the same issue when trying to get a CPL for my xf 8-16. ended up buying Kase's kit as it's magnetic, but the 150mm NDs are just absurdly expensive
I bought the Kase magnetic system as well for my 24-105.... So much easier - good results - well worth the money...
I would call these challenges and not problems. Since I also shoot with Fuji love to see comparisons at similiar focal lengths of the same composition to see the difference in smearing int he corners between Fuji's two ultra-wides - say at 10 and 13mm.
Another informative video Mark! I love in your videos that you not only give the "positive" side to products or techniques but also the somewhat "negative" side. I like that you say its "your" view and that everyone is different instead of trying to push your views as being the only or right view. ALWAYS a pleasure watching your videos mate and ALWAYS a thumbs up given 👍
Thank ya buddy! I find there's usually pros and cons to most things - nothing's perfect and I very run across anything that's completely horrible either!
Hello Mark, a very apt tutorial for me, as I have just purchased the Samyang f2/8 AF 14mm prime lens. Just have to manage this Focus - Peaking thing lol
I own a nikon 14-30 f4 and as I look back into my images, it turns out that I've never (may be 3 times at most) gone below 18mm over the last year that I've owned this lend... TIL ! Thanks to this gentle nudge video!
Glad to do it and I appreciate you checking out the video!
Sky with no texture
Mark: goes to same location next morning
Me: opens Photoshop
How about both!?
Could not agree more with the cost on 150mm Filter Holders.... My wide lens is the 14-24 2.8 Sigma Art... almost never need ND's but I did need that polarizer. I was lucky and found that same NISI one you have on some kind of auction on E-Bay and it was from Adorama - I thought it was weird but whatever - you could just send them an offer. Offered them $199 and they took it... Looked brand new when I got it. So I got lucky. Enjoy your work Mark...
Great to hear you enjoyed it Steve - thank you!
Hi Mark, great video. For me one of the most important things about my 14-24mm Nikon is also it’s astro landscape use. When you go to Iceland or Norway it’s great to have one wide angle that doubles for Astro and Landscape. I heard the Fuji 8-16 is very good for Astro also.
Thanks a bunch Robert! I don't do much in the way of astro, but I'd imagine its great for it.
Oops! I just bought a Wide Angle 10-24 mm. This was before I heard you talk about the smear effect. Oh, well...live and learn. I'm sure I will enjoy it when I use it in Kona next month. :
TBH I'm not a massive fan of UWA photography, so haven't invested much in this area. The widest lens I own is the Samyang/Rokinon 12mm prime - great lens - especially for the price!! Thanks for a very clear and honest look at the pros and cons of UWA - quite rare for TH-cam!!!
Glad to do it Tony and I appreciate you taking the time to check out the video!
G’day Mark. Great ideas for an old bloke like me. I’m just happy to see your change of format turn out excellent. I haven’t see your van fit out lately.... Be safe Mate
Thanks Neville! I just may have a video out next week with an update on it:)
Great video! I have been playing with my Sone FE 4/12-24mm ultra wide lens for quite some time. I like the variety of options it presents, but the obstacles you mentioned in this week's video are clearly noticeable.
Indeed! Very unique, but certainly a few things to overcome.
Very interesting vid mate.
Canon 24-70 (kit lens on the 6DMII) and have found it very versatile for portraits and landscape.
I not sure I would like to any wider for the landscape shots. I would prefer to use the 70-200 and stitch a pano.
Thank ya Matthew - glad you enjoyed it!
I'm the same way. Even though I have the 16-35 f/4, the 24-70 is usually wide enough. It's such an awesome landscape lens that I rarely take it off unless it doesn't have enough reach
Great video with lot of logic about buying an ultra ultra wide angle lens
Thanks so much - glad to hear you enjoyed it!
Great video mark! Order a 7-14mm (micro 4/3) wich is in the mail and on it's way to me. This video fits perfect atm, good to know what problems to have to look out for!
Looking forward to your next vid 😃
cheers Daniel 🇸🇯
I shoot real estate with a Sigma 12-24mm Art lens. I love this thing with one exception. I cannot shoot 12mm indoors. It distorts the edges and bends walls. 14mm is my limit indoors and the lens is great.
Yeah straight lines and UW lenses don’t get along well.
do you not notice the same effect with trees/mountains? curious because I considered this lens for a while but keep ending up concluding that it is way too wide for me.
@@brianbeattyphotography The natural distortion of an UW lens only comes into play when you ave close to a vertical line - like two or three feet and an enclosed space. If you are leaning against a building shooting at a mountain range, then yeah, the wall will probably distort. Step, say seven or eight feet away from the building and you won't notice anything. I hope this helps.
@@Just-a-Guy1 got it, thanks.
Mark, Great job. Much food for thought. Thanks for this video. Richard
Much appreciated Richard - thank you! Enjoy the weekend!
This video is really informative 👏 Thank you!
Great info Mark on the reason for/against buying a wide angle Lens which leads to a question I have for you .. Can you tell me why you decided to move to Fuji for your Landscape photography ? (I remember you always used to shoot with Sony) was it solely because of the better wide angle lens option ...
I own the Fuji 10-24, and have been happy with the images I have gotten. I may have to go back and look at my corners more closely!
Some images it shows up more than others, basically if you don't have much in the corners of your photos you probably won't see it much.
@@MarkDenneyPhoto Have you seen this? A comparison between the 8-16 and 10-24.
th-cam.com/video/jpbrwvxChcI/w-d-xo.html
@@stephenschmid492 I haven't but I'll be sure to check it out - thanks for sending this over.
I know you don’t do this type of review usually but id really love to see some in the field direct comparison of 10-24 and 8-16 for overlapping focal lengths. Many of the other reviews I’ve read that when stopped down, the differences should be quite subtle, even in the corners.
I also feel like I’ve observed similar cases with my 10-24 but in other cases, little to no smearing
thanks Mark, I've purchase a 15mm and have wondered how to use it!
Great review. Thank you. I think I stay with my 10-24mm zoom.
The whole filter kit with the Nikon 14-24 f2.8 is the most annoying part of using that lens. I had to by a special backpack attachment just to carry the polarizing filter kit for it. My backpack looks like some Frankenstein creation because of it. That being said, its still my favorite lens.
Hahahah - yep I feel your pain!
Great information Mark, thanks very much for sharing!!
Thank you Patty! I’m glad you think so.
Answered all my questions. Very interesting. I think renting the lense prior to buying is a good option.
Great to hear it was helpful Colleen! Yes, renting is always a smart choice.
My favorite genre is UWA... you can create some dramatic images. And when the sky is good, the UWA can make it amazing. On my APS-C camera I have 8mm fisheye, and a 10-20mm. On full frame, I have a 14-30mm. BTW... Is that a 110 camera on your desk?
I love your videos and photography man. I am currently working on starting a youtube and your definitely apart of the inspiration!
Thanks a million Alex! That's awesome - I wish you all the success in the world with your upcoming channel!
Good review, Mark. I gave the 8-16 a long look, but do not have a need that justifies the added size/weight and cost of filters ($500 for just one, yikes) vs the 10-24 WR. That kind of investment seems like a good down payment on the GFX system instead.
Great images! I think the part most and myself tend to struggle with at those wide focal lengths are finding a good foreground that doesn't need to have you do focus stacking which can be challenging when you go with slower shutter speeds. Despite that I've gotten some breathtaking images with my sony 12-24 2.8 gm lens. Took me a while to find a good gnd filter that didn't induce flare 😀
Thanks so much! Yep - finding compelling foreground is always the struggle for me as well.
Hi Mark some very useful information as always. I found it very interesting as I don't shoot much in that focal length but having listened to this I will look for situations I can try it again and see if I can be more successful that previous time. Love your channel and content many thanks Tim.
Thanks a million for that Tim - really appreciate it!
Hey Mark! Great insight to UWA lenses. I'm glad to see your channel growing. Keep up the solid work!
Many thanks - really appreciate that!
11-16mm f/2,8 I just bought a nice ND Set with 8, 64, 1000 costs 70€. I own 4 lenses so i got me 3 mounting adapters for 30€ i guess its the cheapest way. (Filter should match the biggest lens mount)
Thank You Mark, Another video enjoyed..
Great tips, Mark. I own an Olympus 7-14 f/2.8, which corresponds to 14-28mm full frame. I've experienced every one of these issues. Maybe that explains why most of my outdoor shots with this lens have been less than impressive. But it's fantastic for indoor spaces (churches, cathedrals). BTW, is that a Minolta 110 camera on top of that book?
Polarizer under 30- 35mm (FF) is usually a bad idea. Why? Polarizing effect depends on angle at which light is falling. At wider lenses those angles differ quite a lot so filter will not work evenly. Or, in some UWA in one place will work 100% and other 0%. You can use it to your advantage sometimes (to even sky brightness for example) but in most cases it is a big problem.
I do want to get something that wide or at least wider than the 18-105 that I have on my crop sensor Nikon. I tried to use the distortion method of exaggerating foreground subject but I haven't had much luck with the 27mm that is 35mm equivalent on this lens. I do know that some lenses have a filter thread at the back, instead of front, but that implies getting that specific size filters on top of what I already have.
hi, could you explain the reason you bump up your iso's in photos ,while you can keep it low on a longer shutter?
Great video, Mark.
2:30]. I don't know Mark, I think a nice day might have completely ruined that shot. Not a perfect shot, but the energy of the swirling waves, white foam and subtle greens, and the rugged texture and color of the rocky cove - pretty great. A nice day, a beautiful sunrise or sunset would only have served to hoover attention away from what is the subject of the picture: swirling water framed by rocks. All the horizon and distant headland are doing is orienting you relative to the composition and establishing a mood. It is probably best they are otherwise dull and interesting.
3:00] Yup, some interest out at the horizon, but all of the power, dynamism, and color from the foreground cove - eh.
3:29] Postcard-perfect-almost. Not bad. Nice color to the water, that is the best I can say. All of the power and dynamism [how he repeats himself] from the original photo non-existant. Maybe you should check the wind and tide tables too, not just your watch.
All. Of. This. So, so spot on. 🙂📸
Thanks for this great video as all ways
Very glad to do it Noel!
this is one of the reason why i still stick to my canon 16-35mm. 16mm still able to "enjoy" the cheaper 150x100mm filter system LOL
I brought the Sigma 14-24 f2.8 for my Sony e mount. luckily it takes the Kase rear mount filters, there so cheap
The beard is starting to look epic. Also, great video as usual.
Hahah - thanks man!
I found similar results with my 10-24. Although it’s a pretty good lens, I have noticed soft edges, even at f8.
Yep - overall great lens minus the soft corners.
Thanks, Mark, for a really informative video. It was very helpful, even if I decided that it might be better to stick with my Samyang (Rokinon) 12mm f2 and Fuji14mm f2.8! Combined, they are lighter than the 8-16mm, they easily take filters and are still quite sharp to the corners (perhaps because they are primes). Even so, they are wide enough for nightscapes with the Milky Way. I just have to accept that certain compromises will sometimes have to be made, and that I could not get the same compositions with the coastal scenes and woodland waterfalls, both of which I liked. As a recent subscriber of your channel, it was interesting to hear where you do much of your woodland photography, which is often in deciduous areas. Because in SOUTH Carolina, there are many tall pines, according to Gram Parsons. (But there might also be an oak or two!) Look forward to watching next Wednesday's video. 😅
I've thought about getting a Laowa 9mm. Not sure how it might fair against a Fuji. I've also thought about some day trying a Sigma ART and Irix if they ever become available for X mount. Many choices!
I'm not sure what you're saying here. But do mean to relay that a zoom lens brings objects closer to the camera and wide angle does not?
I guess at the same time we can say that wide angle lens can encompass a scene without having to move back, where a zoom lens would force you to maybe walk off a cliff, backing up?
Just an odd presentation of problems
Great video like always Mark, love watching you're channel. Could you give me some advice please.
I've been doing Photography TH-cam tutorials for about a year now and I'm wondering if it's necessary to shoot my videos in 4K or is 1080p good enough. The reason I'm asking is that until this point I've been using my Samsung S10, but I'm looking at a budget mirrorless and some are better in 1080p then 4K.
Thank you
Charles Niautou
Enjoyed the info. Thanks
Thanks for checking it out Dan!
Mark, thanks for great channel. Since I am switching from cropped to full frame sensor, I have to decide the wide angle lens. Should I get 12-24 or 16-35. The normal zoom lens that I already have is 24-105. I would appreciate your advice. I see you are not much into below 16mm, but again, 12-24 can go up to 24.
Good points but you missed the opportunity to discuss the fact that super wide-angles create a "sense of place", the areas between objects which not only exaggerate perspective, but are going to be largest view areas. Standard or telephoto lenses are more about capturing objects or compresses scenes. I wouldn't categorize either as problems, both are used for different areas of artistic expression. Also, Lees SW150 filter system for bulbous lenses is pricey, yes, but there are adapters for many other lenses so you are not buying a high quality filter for just one lens.
Nice OBX shirt you have on!
Good video Mark 📷👍
Thank ya Mike!
I have a problem with out of focus blobs in the foreground corners
Great Vlog, I don't have an ultra wide angle lens, i prefer to do a pano, thanks for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it Tony!
Mark, regarding use of a polarizing filter, besides the expense in obtaining such a filter for the ultra wide angle lens, isn't the main factor the variability of the sky darkness over one end of the sky to the other? I have the same problem with regular wide angle lenses, e.g. 16mm.
Your wall clock has stopped working... 🤔😅
Is that shot at 4:50 Acadia National Park? I have a shot from almost the same spot if it is. Pretty cool. Acadia is only a couple hrs away from me.
Mark, I have a 16-35mm nikon lens with a 77mm filter size. Do you have an idea what size circular polarizer I should get to keep away from vignetting? I was thinking a 77-82mm step up ring with an 82mm or 86mm filter. Thanks for any help you can give.
Great video: thanks!
Thanks so much!
Mark, I really respect and appreciate your advice. When I buy my Fujifilm XT3, if I can only afford 1 lens for all-around photography what lens should I get.
Hi, Manny - I'd probably recommend the 10-24 - it may be a little soft in the corners but it's a great value for the money - very versatile focal length for landscape photography. Hope that helps!
Mark, I am a newbie to your channel, very informative. Getting a Canon 10-18 for my birthday. Question for you: Going to Hawaii later this year and wondering the best way to export photos since I won't have a computer with me? Could I use a card reader and export them to a Fire tablet? Thanks.
Still can't believe it's $500 for that one filter!
I know - great quality, but it's a bit over the top.
Arcadia National Park, Maine
Difficult you said but your photos are awesome. When we’re going to see your new modified car?
Thanks so much! Think I should make next week's video a van build update?
Hi Mark what was the reason behind moving from full frame to crop? Sorry if that’s been asked before.
I've been endlessly pondering the purchase of the 8-16 (as it's 25% off at the moment) but the filter situation is a big hang-up for me. I don't know what to do?
Hi!, when I am on location, and I want to shoot wide, it always get this problem, the background (mountains) get smaller. What if I want to shoot wide but keep the 40mm 50mm or 85mm look. Obviously I guess this is only possibly with larger format. Or multiple shots and then photoshopped'em all. Is it another method?
Hi!
Why didn't you buy square filters with adapters? They seems to be cheaper than 500$. And might be suitable for other lenses as well.
Many of the "bulbous" front element UWA lenses do not have filter threads so screw in filters or adapters can't be used on them.
Is there any pocket at the back of the lens for gel filters?
I have 15mm (canon) fisheye and they made a special pocket at the back for gel filters, and I do use some UVC or IR filters there.
on the other hand i do have a rokinon 8mm which is completely manual and has no pocket at the back ... but i managed to fit a filter there (by small duct tapes or pushing the filter edges into the grooves at the back of the lens) - it's not quite practical of course but experimenting and the results worth it - sometimes we have to awaken the MacGyver in us lil bit.
Nope - no pockets.
Am thinking about getting this lens. Now should I get it??
Have you done astro photo? I was struggled to stitch pano with 12mm lens.
No I haven't yet.
Mark, thanks for sharing but it leaves me with a couple of questions! I’ve been considering both the lenses in this video. I’m not sure if you’re recommending the 8-16 over the 10-24? And, if you had taken the last image with the 8-16 instead of the 10-24 would the smear effect be in that image?
Hey Michael - I think the 8-16mm is quite a bit better than the 10-24 version 1 that I have. There's now a version 2 of the 10-24, but I haven't used that one before.
What is your opinion on panoramic photos? Could a short panoramic shot take care of the "smear effect"?
It's something that I'd like to do more often - I'm a fan!
majority of my photos are in portrait with the wide angle lens because I share my photos on Instagram
Is there any other cheap filter options?
Oh yeah - tons of them out there.
I’m surprised the unevenness from using a circular polarizer wasn’t discussed. Any thoughts on that? Thanks for the vid!