My telephoto lens mistake no. 1: leaving it in my backpack when I have an opportunity to use it... Wonder which of the two teles you will buy and why. I chose the 55-200: if it is good enough for Andy Mumford it certainly is for me...
I purchased the Sony 70-350 for my mirrorless Sony and I'm still trying to find ways to compose images that are interesting and not just "close-ups" of subjects. Thanks for the tips!
I just stumbled upon your channel, and I'd like to thank you. I've been a photographer for over 30 years, your insight, calm demeanor and excellent advice is refreshing and spot on. I did subscribe, and I'm always eager to learn. Have a great day! Steph
I often find wind-induced tripod vibrations - that get transferred to the camera body - are a bigger source of mischief than those associated with telephoto lens cap vibrations. A weight attached to the underside of the tripod works wonders for this situation. On a related note, tripod spikes - as opposed to tripod rubber feet - that firmly anchor the tripod to the ground - also helps when the wind is particularly muscular.
Ok. Not a great solution if you are walk a good amount of distance, but I will bring 2 one gallon jugs of water and a three foot piece of rope. hang the jugs under the rope, this will give +/- 13lbs of weight for grounding
All solid advice. For those of us using a DSLR the mirror slap can introduce vibration as well. By using the electronic shutter you can avoid that issue.
Having been a Pentax user for just over 40 years I use my 40 year old full frame 135mm lens on my crop sensor camera. Not only does it act like a 200mm prime it is tiny (smaller than most modern 18-55 ) and very light one of my favourite lenses to use... superb in all aspects and all manual lolz.
I always use a tripod when shooting landscapes. However, there are situations when a tripod is too cumbersome - when shooting some action scenes or wildlife, for example. When handheld, the old rule of thumb to avoid shake is to set the shutter speed at 1 divided by the focal length; i.e., a 200mm lens handheld should have a shutter speed less than or equal to 1/200 sec. To set this automatically for a zoom telephoto lens on my Nikon D850, I set the mode to PROGRAM, and turn on Auto-ISO. The camera will set the correct shutter speed for whatever focal length, and adjust the aperture and ISO accordingly. I shot an air show last year using this technique, and the results were fantastic!
All of these tips will help me slow down and really think about my shot. Switching from wildlife (flying birds) to landscape is sometimes difficult for me. I am still in that frantic state trying to get everything right in that split second. Great tips!!!
Hi Mark, it’s funny that you had this video when I had all the mistakes you just pointed out. In fact, I was struggling yesterday using a 100-400 lens… but I was able to correct them all but it took some time to have them all cleared out. The other problem the telephoto lens did was doing a pano. I am second guessing the use of the lens by deciding to do a pano, which a 24-105 can easily achieve, without having to stitch as much files.
I just started landscape photography and buying things one by one. I generally watch 3 channels. Marks, Nigel Danson, Andy mumfords. Mark is the best one. Down to earth. Honest opinion. Incredible.
Camera hack: I use a plastic zipper seal sandwich bag about half filled with sand, put that one inside a second sandwich bag (for safety's sake)and you can lay that across the top of the camera just before you are ready to fire the shutter. It's a pound or two of extra inertia that helps keep that lens still.
I've been using the XF 55-200 for a year now, and it's a really good lens! I know the other one is at f/2.8, but f/4.8 at 200mm is still really good, I would never dream of swapping this lens! (Except for the 100-400) The 55-200 is perhaps the most cost effective lens of the Fuji line up. Keep up the good videos Mark!
Mark, I always learn at least (at least!) one thing from every video. You're such a great teacher. Might I make a suggestion after reading through the comments? Could you embed the info on your gear (like the tripod) in the video? So many people are asking. Happily anticipating your next vid. Thanks so much!
Hi Mary! Thanks so much - I really appreciate that. Here is the link for the tripod line that I'm using: stetindenphoto.com/collections/global-elite-photographer-series. If you're looking for a new tripod you can use my promo code to save 10% MARKDENNEY2020C10
Sweet spot of a lens can be roughly found using the "largest aperture times two" formula. On my kit lens it's f/7.1, and I tested it just to be sure. The formula was indeed correct.
Hi Mark. Am guilty of not leaving enough room around my subjects. It affects cropping the edges, but also if you wish to frame the image after processing, it might not be possible because we don't leave enough room around the image. Love your vlog. Wish that I could attend one of your classes, but health problems take that option away. So, appreciate all that you present in your vlog's. You are the best teacher on landscape photography out here. Bill.
I've still not made a decision on which lens to buy. 50-140 or 55-200? Be interesting to find out what you decide on. Maybe do a little comparison video? ? Thanks for all the time you take to share your passion for photography.
Solid tips, Mark. Closely related to the micro-shake tip is wind. No matter how stable your tripod, a steady (or worse, gusting) high wind will wreak havoc on a long Zoom or telephoto. Leaning on the camera to "hold it steady" will make vibrations worse. I speak from recent experimental experience with a 150-600mm zoom.
I stand between the wind and camera in that situation. There's still turbulence but it is much less than direct blast on the camera. A heavy sturdy tripod, or at least sturdy, is tremendously helpful.
@@thomasmaughan4798 in my case I'd have been in the shot. In a steady 30mph wind gusting to 45, it wouldn't have helped anyway. Those were my conditions. Tropical storm had just gone through..
one solution to the long lens "slow shutter" is to add a lens support, a video camera long plate, with a foot facing up, to cradle the lens, like a trailer yachts' mast staff, when it's folded; it gives the lens the support, but importantly, allows you to shift the Centre of gravity to the balance point, between the lens and camera tripod thread, to where a long lens foot would be situated. One other tip, esp. for film cameras, MF in particular due to large mirrors, use the M-up mode, to activate the vibrations, let them settle, then fire the shutter, when everything's calmed down. OR if you have a mirrorless system, use the Electronic shutter, so the curtain motion is in-lieu of the mirror up mode, done before the image is recorded.
Good tips, Mark! I certainly get home to find soft telephoto shots, these are good to keep in mind...
4 ปีที่แล้ว +2
Over-zooming: guilty as charged! I've done many times in the past, but now I do a few shots in different focal lengths. I ruined some shots in the past because of over-zooming. When I got home, I'd look at those shots and see the impact of the overall scene was lost in the longest focal length. Now, I have options to pick what best suits me in terms of composition.
Bought the Fuji 100-400 during the last sale. Finally got it 2 weeks ago and it’s a winner. I have the 55-200 and while the small size is awesome I like the images from the 100-400 more. Using both with my XT 2. I rented the 100-400 twice so I knew what I was getting myself into.
Mark always enjoying your videos. I have so much to learn but the journey is fantastic. One thing, as a newer photographer, is many will talk about a lens having a sweet spot in terms of sharpness. Other than taking lots of photos, is there a way to determine my particular lenses sweet spots? Thanks as always
What an amazing video Mark. Superb tips. Recently i bought 70-300 Fuji lens. I faced all these issues. And upset with the lens and returned to Fuji to check if there is a problem in the lens. I am waiting for their comment. Meanwhile I happen to see this video. Thanks Mark. No where these types of practical tips are available. You hold the viewers hand and take them to new heights in photography. Thanks again. But I have a doubt how to lock the auto focus. Please reply. Do we get the collar for 70-300 lens?
Thanks a lot for yet another enlightening video Mark. Can you clarify the second point regarding using a larger aperture? From a compositional point of view it can already be challenging to deal with the shrinkage of depth of field with increasing focal length (doubling the FL increases the hyperfocal distance by a factor 4). Using a larger aperture on top of that would be even less DOF. How do you deal with that? Are you simply focus stacking much more frequently?
I’m loving seeing the Fuji images and equipment. I’m looking at going with the Fuji x-T4 but now that the X-t3 has dropped I’m wondering if IBS and other updates is worth the extra $700 or so for pure landscape photography.
Mark Denney thanks! I currently don’t do much video but have aspirations to do some b-roll type images just for things like Instagram reels, etc. that’s where I thought the ibs might be worth it. Love your channel!
Many thanks Paul (& dear Mark as usual for sharing your Art work). When no tripod quite simple: OIS lenses on my XT3, other ones (ultimate primes or the perfect 16-55) on my XT4. Greetings 🇨🇭
Thomas Heaton is doing the same as Mark Denny Paul. XT3 for some of his photos and XT4 for video. I'm not a Fuji user but it seems that the pros are going that way.
Amazing tips Mark and as always love to watch your rich content as you put in all your heart to create these. Congratulations to the winners, Toby and Erin
Wow, thanks so much Mark!!! Some beautiful shots sent into you for that video! Great tips here, I have definitely fallen victim the micro shakes a number of times haha.
Excellent video that will undoubtedly help improve my results. You must have been peaking at my telephoto images, shaking your head and thinking this poor guy needs some help!
Excellent, some really useful tips in this video. Mark, I had the XC 50-230 (an under-rated lens IMHO) until yesterday, when I broke it. Camera fell off the tripod. Camera fine, lens not so much! (The mount broke). Anyway, I’m thinking it’s an opportunity to upgrade and I’ve been looking at the 55-200 and the 50-140. One thing the 50-140 has that the 55-200 doesn’t is weather-sealing. Do you have any views on the importance of this in your experience? (My work is mostly coastal, astro and desert). Thanks.
Mark, do you print your on photos or do you send them to a service? example Shutterfly. My home printer has died and I am at a crossroads to send out or replace. Appreciate your comments.
Great timing - I've just taken delivery today of a Fuji 55-200 (which I suspect you'll go for)!! Really extremely useful "real world" tips - I'm looking forward to put them into practice - many thanks for a great video!!
Interesting tip about removing the lens hood, Mark. I suppose this is less critical for handheld telephoto shots. Also about the soft focus: I've noticed that on rare occasions, my camera would miss focus if the focus point was on a brightly lit pinpoint light source (for example, Christmas tree lights). It's happened on two cameras now.
I zoomed inn to maximum level to properly focus, on my lens the other week. I was surprised the amount of shake on just a 300mm with almost no wind. Also stuck my tripod on the beach, the delicate waves washed over my shoes, but the effect those waves had on the tripod, the amouint of shake it put on my camera, was astounding. I needed a couple of seconds on the shutter, but it was impossible on just 35mm. I wish I had the clarity in my thoughts to power up the ISO, and not worry so much about the ISO-nastyness. It was a gloomy day anyways.
Hi Mark I have an issue in deciding how to choose the F stop I need for an image. I am a little confused, Lens I understand all have their own F stop sweet spot which tends to be around F4 to 5. However in a large landscape surely you want a large Depth of field ie F 8 to 16. Whats the best process for deciding the best F stop
Not only will a lens hood provide more area on which wind can act to introduce camera shake in general, but since it's the farthest part of the lens, it has the longest moment arm, meaning the force applied to the lens hood will apply more torque and move the camera more than if the same force were applied anywhere else closer to the camera body.
Lately have been experimenting with 300 vs 200 for landscape. All the tips you gave on what not to do were great but the one that resonated the most was on aperture - using the sweet spot - can’t wait to try this out soon!
Great timing on this vid, as I have been thinking of doing something other than wide angle. Mentally planning some sunsets from a high up hiking point, and the possibility of zooming in on spots. Ill let ya know if it works out.
I really hope you will make a video about the tele-comparison! I found that from F8 and onwards, I could not tell a difference between the two. The 50-140 was crisper (more contrast) and maybe a bit sharper from 2.8 to F8.
You can keep your camera in manual mode and select the option AF+MF in the menu. This way the AF is active when the switch is in the M position but you just have to turn your focus ring a little bit for the camera to automatically zoom in your focus point and allow you to focus manually. I find this option to be really convenient (even more for telephoto) so I just switch between modes M (with AF+MF) and C.
Very useful Mark. I've made a point recently of not worrying about going up to ISO400 - with modern cameras I think it's really hard to tell the difference - all but impossible at 'normal' image sizes in my experience. Just got a camera that has focus peaking on it so thanks for that tip particularly.
Nice video. I would like to hear more about focus, especially at night, either through the lens or Live View, I am having difficulties.Also, in this video what tripod and head, mount that you are using. I have a Manfroto and am not happy. I would like an all around head etc, that can be used on a tracker for astrophotography as well.
I know a lot of you guys are using mirrorless cameras these days, But you forgot to add the Photogrphers that are still using DSLRs. You can use the mirror lockup or live view to reduce camera shake.
Came here to say this. I still shoot DSLR and often use mirror lockup for slow shutter speeds. If you don’t have a remote shutter release to use with the mirror lockup, you can use exposure delay, which will lock the mirror up and wait a predetermined amount of time before releasing the shutter.
Aside from those things, people could also see shutter shock with certain shutter speeds on the really high resolution cameras, even mirrorless, if electronic first curtain shutter isn’t enabled.
On the D810 at 200mm with a low shutter speed, I almost always use Mirror Up. Even with a delayed exposure, the mirror movement will create enough shake to cause blur.
Great video mark - I’ve fallen victim of the soft focus a couple times. Out of curiosity what l-bracket do you have for the Fuji (xt4?) I saw in the video?
What's the longest focal length you use for your Landscape Photography?
300 mm is the longest I carry for landscapes.
300mm, on a crop so 450mm equivalent. Great for picking out distant cliffs and compressing perspective.
I have a 200-600mm but i cant remember if i shoot some landcapes on 600mm.
@@weswheeler3674 Same here! Ever need more reach Wes?
Usually 80mm, cause the XF 16-80 is so convenient. Need to bring out one of the longer lenses more often. Great video as always.
An old photographer’s adage from years ago: go to f8 and don’t be late.
My telephoto lens mistake no. 1: leaving it in my backpack when I have an opportunity to use it...
Wonder which of the two teles you will buy and why. I chose the 55-200: if it is good enough for Andy Mumford it certainly is for me...
I purchased the Sony 70-350 for my mirrorless Sony and I'm still trying to find ways to compose images that are interesting and not just "close-ups" of subjects. Thanks for the tips!
I'm in love with the little plant on your desk. The leaves are very evenly shaped and it almost looks like it's emiting light
The opening scene with birds chirping was superb. Nice place. Yr episode.. very well explained. Thanks.
I just stumbled upon your channel, and I'd like to thank you. I've been a photographer for over 30 years, your insight, calm demeanor and excellent advice is refreshing and spot on. I did subscribe, and I'm always eager to learn. Have a great day! Steph
I often find wind-induced tripod vibrations - that get transferred to the camera body - are a bigger source of mischief than those associated with telephoto lens cap vibrations. A weight attached to the underside of the tripod works wonders for this situation. On a related note, tripod spikes - as opposed to tripod rubber feet - that firmly anchor the tripod to the ground - also helps when the wind is particularly muscular.
Ok. Not a great solution if you are walk a good amount of distance, but I will bring 2 one gallon jugs of water and a three foot piece of rope. hang the jugs under the rope, this will give +/- 13lbs of weight for grounding
Excellent information, Mike. You're videos are always worth watching, thanks.
All solid advice. For those of us using a DSLR the mirror slap can introduce vibration as well. By using the electronic shutter you can avoid that issue.
Having been a Pentax user for just over 40 years I use my 40 year old full frame 135mm lens on my crop sensor camera. Not only does it act like a 200mm prime it is tiny (smaller than most modern 18-55 ) and very light one of my favourite lenses to use... superb in all aspects and all manual lolz.
I always use a tripod when shooting landscapes. However, there are situations when a tripod is too cumbersome - when shooting some action scenes or wildlife, for example. When handheld, the old rule of thumb to avoid shake is to set the shutter speed at 1 divided by the focal length; i.e., a 200mm lens handheld should have a shutter speed less than or equal to 1/200 sec. To set this automatically for a zoom telephoto lens on my Nikon D850, I set the mode to PROGRAM, and turn on Auto-ISO. The camera will set the correct shutter speed for whatever focal length, and adjust the aperture and ISO accordingly. I shot an air show last year using this technique, and the results were fantastic!
I always double it on my D850, due to the high resolution of the camera
Check out Andy Mumfords comparison of the two lenses. 55-200mm is his choice.
Yeah I saw his video on it which was great.
All of these tips will help me slow down and really think about my shot. Switching from wildlife (flying birds) to landscape is sometimes difficult for me. I am still in that frantic state trying to get everything right in that split second. Great tips!!!
You are just so helpful. Thank you!
Loved it that Nigel Danson appears on top of your google search. Both of you are my favourite Landscape Photographers on TH-cam!
A big thank you from Seattle. Fantastic video 📸👍!
Hi Mark, it’s funny that you had this video when I had all the mistakes you just pointed out. In fact, I was struggling yesterday using a 100-400 lens… but I was able to correct them all but it took some time to have them all cleared out. The other problem the telephoto lens did was doing a pano. I am second guessing the use of the lens by deciding to do a pano, which a 24-105 can easily achieve, without having to stitch as much files.
Great advice. Recently hit a creative wall with using my telephoto lens and this has given me some inspiration to get back out. Subscribed!
Thanks to your advice I got both sigma 17-50 2.8F and a 100-400 telephoto lenses for my landscape amateur photography
And switch to back focus button, so that your focus does not change when you finally press the release. Good points, thank you for sharing.
I just started landscape photography and buying things one by one. I generally watch 3 channels. Marks, Nigel Danson, Andy mumfords. Mark is the best one. Down to earth. Honest opinion. Incredible.
Camera hack: I use a plastic zipper seal sandwich bag about half filled with sand, put that one inside a second sandwich bag (for safety's sake)and you can lay that across the top of the camera just before you are ready to fire the shutter. It's a pound or two of extra inertia that helps keep that lens still.
i like this idea. i'm going to try it thanks John!
JohnB Cool idea. I suppose you could use a bean bag if you had it with you.
I've been using the XF 55-200 for a year now, and it's a really good lens! I know the other one is at f/2.8, but f/4.8 at 200mm is still really good, I would never dream of swapping this lens! (Except for the 100-400) The 55-200 is perhaps the most cost effective lens of the Fuji line up. Keep up the good videos Mark!
Yes - I've been thinking the same thing an honestly don't see a big difference between it and the 50-140mm
And rumour suggests Fuji is to release a 70-300 soon ....
Another great practical tutorial. Thank you. Tom UK
Just got my Canon EF 70-200 and exactly all these mistakes, thx to pointing them out 😋🤙
Great video! The reminder not to over-zoom is a great tip.
Mark, I always learn at least (at least!) one thing from every video. You're such a great teacher. Might I make a suggestion after reading through the comments? Could you embed the info on your gear (like the tripod) in the video? So many people are asking. Happily anticipating your next vid. Thanks so much!
Hi Mary! Thanks so much - I really appreciate that. Here is the link for the tripod line that I'm using: stetindenphoto.com/collections/global-elite-photographer-series. If you're looking for a new tripod you can use my promo code to save 10% MARKDENNEY2020C10
Sweet spot of a lens can be roughly found using the "largest aperture times two" formula. On my kit lens it's f/7.1, and I tested it just to be sure. The formula was indeed correct.
Number 4 was best help! Thanks!!
Very helpful! Thank you for the tips. Also, it's good to see you are using Fuji!
Glad to hear it Frank! Love the Fuji!
You literally helped me fix a lot of my mistakes...thanks alot. Keep making great content 😃
Hi Mark. Am guilty of not leaving enough room around my subjects. It affects cropping the edges, but also if you wish to frame the image after processing, it might not be possible because we don't leave enough room around the image. Love your vlog. Wish that I could attend one of your classes, but health problems take that option away. So, appreciate all that you present in your vlog's. You are the best teacher on landscape photography out here. Bill.
Thanks so much Bill, very kind of you to say! I hope you begin feeling better soon!
@@MarkDenneyPhoto Thanks Mark, that would be wonderful.
I've still not made a decision on which lens to buy. 50-140 or 55-200? Be interesting to find out what you decide on. Maybe do a little comparison video? ? Thanks for all the time you take to share your passion for photography.
Love your videos mark! I’ve learned so much from you!! Keep it up!
Thanks so much Owen!
Very helpful tips and a great video. 🤠
Thanks Richard!
Solid tips, Mark. Closely related to the micro-shake tip is wind. No matter how stable your tripod, a steady (or worse, gusting) high wind will wreak havoc on a long Zoom or telephoto. Leaning on the camera to "hold it steady" will make vibrations worse. I speak from recent experimental experience with a 150-600mm zoom.
I stand between the wind and camera in that situation. There's still turbulence but it is much less than direct blast on the camera. A heavy sturdy tripod, or at least sturdy, is tremendously helpful.
@@thomasmaughan4798 in my case I'd have been in the shot. In a steady 30mph wind gusting to 45, it wouldn't have helped anyway. Those were my conditions. Tropical storm had just gone through..
one solution to the long lens "slow shutter" is to add a lens support, a video camera long plate, with a foot facing up, to cradle the lens, like a trailer yachts' mast staff, when it's folded; it gives the lens the support, but importantly, allows you to shift the Centre of gravity to the balance point, between the lens and camera tripod thread, to where a long lens foot would be situated.
One other tip, esp. for film cameras, MF in particular due to large mirrors, use the M-up mode, to activate the vibrations, let them settle, then fire the shutter, when everything's calmed down.
OR if you have a mirrorless system, use the Electronic shutter, so the curtain motion is in-lieu of the mirror up mode, done before the image is recorded.
Good tips, Mark! I certainly get home to find soft telephoto shots, these are good to keep in mind...
Over-zooming: guilty as charged! I've done many times in the past, but now I do a few shots in different focal lengths. I ruined some shots in the past because of over-zooming. When I got home, I'd look at those shots and see the impact of the overall scene was lost in the longest focal length. Now, I have options to pick what best suits me in terms of composition.
Thanks for share those useful tips. Regards
Happy to do it!
Amazing video Mark! I just bought a Sony 18-135mm lens for my landscape photography and I love it!
My mistake is not noticing haze on a hot day when zoomed in to a distant mountain .... never sharp!
I like this tripod. Which model is it or do you have a link to share? Would like to buy one! Love the video. The aperture info is on point. Thank you
Thanks for your suggestions.
Happy to do it and thanks for watching!
Thanks for this. Great information that I can see pertains to my photography issues!
Thanks for checking it out Richard!
Completely agree. Those 4 tips are absolutely true as I came to apply them over the last year.
Totally! Thanks for checking out the Patrick!
Once again Mr. Denney.... well taught
Thanks Jack!
Bought the Fuji 100-400 during the last sale. Finally got it 2 weeks ago and it’s a winner. I have the 55-200 and while the small size is awesome I like the images from the 100-400 more. Using both with my XT 2. I rented the 100-400 twice so I knew what I was getting myself into.
Love the videos. I can’t help but hear Jeff Goldblum in your voice!!
Really nice intro Mark!
Thanks man - really appreciate that!!
So friggin true...what he just said, thanks Mark
Mark always enjoying your videos. I have so much to learn but the journey is fantastic. One thing, as a newer photographer, is many will talk about a lens having a sweet spot in terms of sharpness. Other than taking lots of photos, is there a way to determine my particular lenses sweet spots? Thanks as always
What an amazing video Mark. Superb tips. Recently i bought 70-300 Fuji lens. I faced all these issues. And upset with the lens and returned to Fuji to check if there is a problem in the lens. I am waiting for their comment. Meanwhile I happen to see this video. Thanks Mark. No where these types of practical tips are available. You hold the viewers hand and take them to new heights in photography. Thanks again. But I have a doubt how to lock the auto focus. Please reply. Do we get the collar for 70-300 lens?
Thanks a lot for yet another enlightening video Mark. Can you clarify the second point regarding using a larger aperture? From a compositional point of view it can already be challenging to deal with the shrinkage of depth of field with increasing focal length (doubling the FL increases the hyperfocal distance by a factor 4). Using a larger aperture on top of that would be even less DOF. How do you deal with that? Are you simply focus stacking much more frequently?
Great advice!! Fuji is a great camera the positive is the pixel color arrangement looks better for some reason, so good choice.
Thanks so much - I'm glad you think so!
The B roll and ambient footage is looking really nice!
Thanks so much!
Time to go play around with my new lens!
Super helpful mate. The autofocus one especially.
OMG, had that Sony Walkman back in the day. Great for beach time!
Atavistic staging prop. Brings the old guys into the game
Very helpful reminders. Thanks Mark.
Glad you think so!
I’m loving seeing the Fuji images and equipment. I’m looking at going with the Fuji x-T4 but now that the X-t3 has dropped I’m wondering if IBS and other updates is worth the extra $700 or so for pure landscape photography.
I'm still using the X-T3 for stills and using the X-T4 for video. I'm always on a tripod so I don't really need IBIS.
Mark Denney thanks! I currently don’t do much video but have aspirations to do some b-roll type images just for things like Instagram reels, etc. that’s where I thought the ibs might be worth it. Love your channel!
Many thanks Paul (& dear Mark as usual for sharing your Art work). When no tripod quite simple: OIS lenses on my XT3, other ones (ultimate primes or the perfect 16-55) on my XT4. Greetings 🇨🇭
@@MarkDenneyPhoto Why not reverse that? IBIS on the X-T4 is very nice and useful. Lets you leave the tripod at home sometimes.
Thomas Heaton is doing the same as Mark Denny Paul. XT3 for some of his photos and XT4 for video. I'm not a Fuji user but it seems that the pros are going that way.
Great Tips mark, thanks
Thank you Bruce!
Amazing tips Mark and as always love to watch your rich content as you put in all your heart to create these. Congratulations to the winners, Toby and Erin
Many thanks Anuja!
Wow, thanks so much Mark!!! Some beautiful shots sent into you for that video! Great tips here, I have definitely fallen victim the micro shakes a number of times haha.
Thanks a million Toby and congrats on the win!
Clean, clear and best tips as always Sir
Thank you!
Excellent video that will undoubtedly help improve my results. You must have been peaking at my telephoto images, shaking your head and thinking this poor guy needs some help!
Haha! Glad you enjoyed it Jeff!
Practical advice, I learned #3, it hasn't flashed me so far. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Glad to do it and thanks for checking out the video!
Very good knowledge sir 👍
Love the video mark
Excellent, some really useful tips in this video. Mark, I had the XC 50-230 (an under-rated lens IMHO) until yesterday, when I broke it. Camera fell off the tripod. Camera fine, lens not so much! (The mount broke). Anyway, I’m thinking it’s an opportunity to upgrade and I’ve been looking at the 55-200 and the 50-140. One thing the 50-140 has that the 55-200 doesn’t is weather-sealing. Do you have any views on the importance of this in your experience? (My work is mostly coastal, astro and desert). Thanks.
Mark, do you print your on photos or do you send them to a service? example Shutterfly. My home printer has died and I am at a crossroads to send out or replace. Appreciate your comments.
Great timing - I've just taken delivery today of a Fuji 55-200 (which I suspect you'll go for)!! Really extremely useful "real world" tips - I'm looking forward to put them into practice - many thanks for a great video!!
Glad you enjoyed it Tony! The 55-200 is great👍
Great tutorial. Thank you. All great tips.
Always happy to do it! Many thanks for watching Fred👍
Thanks, great tips! 👍🙏
Thanks for checking it out!
Interesting tip about removing the lens hood, Mark. I suppose this is less critical for handheld telephoto shots. Also about the soft focus: I've noticed that on rare occasions, my camera would miss focus if the focus point was on a brightly lit pinpoint light source (for example, Christmas tree lights). It's happened on two cameras now.
Hey Mark what is the model of the tripod that you are using in this video?
Hey Martin! It's the Fotopro Global Elite Photographer Series TL-84C Carbon Fiber Tripod with LG-9R Ball Head
@@MarkDenneyPhoto thank you so much
I zoomed inn to maximum level to properly focus, on my lens the other week. I was surprised the amount of shake on just a 300mm with almost no wind. Also stuck my tripod on the beach, the delicate waves washed over my shoes, but the effect those waves had on the tripod, the amouint of shake it put on my camera, was astounding. I needed a couple of seconds on the shutter, but it was impossible on just 35mm. I wish I had the clarity in my thoughts to power up the ISO, and not worry so much about the ISO-nastyness. It was a gloomy day anyways.
Hi Mark I have an issue in deciding how to choose the F stop I need for an image. I am a little confused, Lens I understand all have their own F stop sweet spot which tends to be around F4 to 5. However in a large landscape surely you want a large Depth of field ie F 8 to 16. Whats the best process for deciding the best F stop
Thank you Mark, very interesting as always.
Great advice about the focus peaking. 🙂
Great video thanks for sharing
Not only will a lens hood provide more area on which wind can act to introduce camera shake in general, but since it's the farthest part of the lens, it has the longest moment arm, meaning the force applied to the lens hood will apply more torque and move the camera more than if the same force were applied anywhere else closer to the camera body.
Lately have been experimenting with 300 vs 200 for landscape. All the tips you gave on what not to do were great but the one that resonated the most was on aperture - using the sweet spot - can’t wait to try this out soon!
Awesome to hear you were able to get some helpful info out this week's video Jackie! Always my top priority!!
Thank you. Great tips
Great timing on this vid, as I have been thinking of doing something other than wide angle. Mentally planning some sunsets from a high up hiking point, and the possibility of zooming in on spots. Ill let ya know if it works out.
For sure - keep me posted!
I really hope you will make a video about the tele-comparison! I found that from F8 and onwards, I could not tell a difference between the two. The 50-140 was crisper (more contrast) and maybe a bit sharper from 2.8 to F8.
You can keep your camera in manual mode and select the option AF+MF in the menu. This way the AF is active when the switch is in the M position but you just have to turn your focus ring a little bit for the camera to automatically zoom in your focus point and allow you to focus manually. I find this option to be really convenient (even more for telephoto) so I just switch between modes M (with AF+MF) and C.
Really great advice thank you
Very useful Mark. I've made a point recently of not worrying about going up to ISO400 - with modern cameras I think it's really hard to tell the difference - all but impossible at 'normal' image sizes in my experience. Just got a camera that has focus peaking on it so thanks for that tip particularly.
Glad to hear the video was helpful Steve!
What tripod are you using? I don’t see it in your gears lists.
Would love to know this too.
It looks like a FotoPro fotopro.com/demos/ tripod.
Hi Mark, would you be able to let me know what L bracket you have on your X-T3 please? Great video by the way 👍🏻
Thanks Richard! It’s from Really Right Stuff
Nice video. I would like to hear more about focus, especially at night, either through the lens or Live View, I am having difficulties.Also, in this video what tripod and head, mount that you are using. I have a Manfroto and am not happy. I would like an all around head etc, that can be used on a tracker for astrophotography as well.
fantastic info! love using tele w/landscapes! 💪🏼💪🏼
Intro is amazing. Nice work Mark.
Many thanks Aman!
Great vid.... You need a new battery in your wall clock too 👍
I know a lot of you guys are using mirrorless cameras these days, But you forgot to add the Photogrphers that are still using DSLRs. You can use the mirror lockup or live view to reduce camera shake.
Came here to say this. I still shoot DSLR and often use mirror lockup for slow shutter speeds. If you don’t have a remote shutter release to use with the mirror lockup, you can use exposure delay, which will lock the mirror up and wait a predetermined amount of time before releasing the shutter.
Aside from those things, people could also see shutter shock with certain shutter speeds on the really high resolution cameras, even mirrorless, if electronic first curtain shutter isn’t enabled.
Great point - I was thinking the same thing.
On the D810 at 200mm with a low shutter speed, I almost always use Mirror Up. Even with a delayed exposure, the mirror movement will create enough shake to cause blur.
When you shoot using live view, your mirror already is locked up. Mirror lock-up is only useful if you shoot through the viewfinder.
Great video mark - I’ve fallen victim of the soft focus a couple times. Out of curiosity what l-bracket do you have for the Fuji (xt4?) I saw in the video?
Thanks Damien! It’s from Really Right Stuff👍
Great advice, thank you!
I have the 55-200 and would not trade it for anything. I love it in my opinion you can't go wrong with it.
Yeah I'm pretty certain that's the one I'm going with.