I just put in practice the "get close and embrace the distortion" motto, last week when shooting with a 16-35mm lens. A game changer for me. This video just reassured me that I am on the right path of getting better while enjoying what we do.
I'm not a beginner but I made a HUGE rookie mistake yesterday evening photographing the sunset...LOw to the ground, long exposure over water & rocks...New landscape tripod with no center column...GREAT for this to the ground shots....BUT...Make sure to look carefully that your TRIPOD LEG isn't in the shot! LOL The legs on my new tripod are a bit longer than my older tripod so I'm still getting used to that. Plus I was under exposing the shot a bit to save the highlights so the shadows closer to me were a bit dark in the view screen. Luckily I saw it when I was looking at the shot while getting ready to go to the next shot. I was able to reset and take it again!
Thanks for doing this video, Mark. I enjoy learning from your mistakes. "Scene stuffing" is something I always try to catch myself from doing when I shoot ultrawide.
Dear Mark, thank you for this video and especially for the nice set of landscape examples! I loved them! As for the lighthouse picture, I would do exactly opposite cropping: I would cut off the left part of the frame almost up (or up) to the place where the road starts being visible after passing the trees... I mention this just to confirm that 1) wide angle shooting gives us space to fine-tune the picture even in the case it was not framed perfectly and 2) photography as an art is about personal taste of photographer and his vision and mood at the moment of shooting and processing. Many thanks for your work again!
Another great informative video Mark. my first wide zoom was a Tamron 10-24mm. Nowadays I have started taking my tablet with me, especially when I am away for a couple of days and what I like to do is get to the area of interest as early as possible take an extreme wide angle shot or two, then send the image to the tablet over the built in wi-fi connection between tablet and camera, this way I can examine the image on the bigger screen (10.1" tablet compared to the 3" on the back of the camera) then begin to roughly break down the wide view image into smaller individual images, so when the light is better and it is time to take the actual photographs, either by zooming in with the wide-angle zoom lens or changing to a bigger lens. Although in saying that, I sometimes forget and still try to cram it all into one or two images.
Hi Mark, this is the kind of video that makes you pay attention to every photograph you take. Thanks a lot ! Let me ask you something, does photo stacking always requires a tripod ? Thanks. Juan
I started very wide 14-24 and cropped a lot, then I progressed to a 24-70 and cropped, then to a 70-200 and cropped a little bit, now I use a 80-400mm and dont very often crop at all
Confronted by a scene that can't be captured with a single exposure, some folks stitch several exposures together to form a panorama. I learned the hard way that it doesn't work to make a panorama shot with exposures from a wide angle lens. The wide lens introduces distortions that make it impossible to use them for a panorama.
Yup. I've successfully stitched images at 35mm FF equiv, but anything wider than that and your pano program either gives up or the results are very poor. (Tip: Taking portrait orientation images work great for effective panos.)
Hi Mark. It was first time when I saw your video and must say that the amount of knowledge is amazing! I have Nikkor 10-20 ultra wide lens and I love it. It gives me a freedom to show exactly what I want to show. But there are many traps using such lenses which you mentioned in this video. I need to watch your other videos. It looks like I finally found the channel which contains usefull informations with examples. looking forward for next videos. Cheers
Thanks Mark, for the warnings on the wide angle lens. I have one but not used it yet so I will now do those intresting low and close to good use, next time I go out will have the wide angle Nikon 12-24mm in my bag. Great subject and good info.
My first (and only) lens is the Nikon DX 18-135 mm f3.5-5.6. To be perfectly honest it suits my needs well enough and I will hopefully be purchasing a fast prime lens to improve my portraits soon. Much love Mark keep up the good work.
Just ordered the Tamron 10-24mm lens. First attempt at wide angle lens. Your video was excellent and has given me some food for thought on practicing with the new lens once I receive it.
I literally slapped myself on the head when you said don’t forget to shoot vertical. I visited line rock in Utah and the photo I took of it was amazing but I always felt like it was missing something. Looking back at it I’m starting to think if I shot it in vertical it would’ve been *chefs kiss*
Thanks Mark, another great educational video. I gain knowledge from each video and often think about methods you suggested while framing for a shot. Like spending more time to find the best composition.
So true! I recently purchased a wide-angle lens 10-20 (15-30 in 35mm equivalent) and found that most of my first pictures were taken at 10mm... Thank you Mark, great video!
Thank you for this video for many reasons as I am reentering the world of photography again with fervency. Another thank you for the awareness that this video's generosity and how the thumbs down is so bogus and arbitrary on so many people's channel. This video was informative, kind, honest and generous - thank you - liked and subscribed.
I love shooting with my Tokina 11-16mm lens and usually stick to 11mm. I get some great results, but do find that I have the same issues with trying to stuff too much in. Also, when I shoot the night sky at 11mm, it shows off the distortion on the edges and there's no easy way to fix it, so i need to crop it.
Learning a lot from your videos and your teaching style !!! Thank you. I am also impressed with the production quality of your videos, including sound. I don't see a lapel mic, so I am curious how you are doing sound and how you light your studio. Please keep the content coming . Next stop will be 1 mil. subscribers!!!
There ideas you mentioned resonated with me. You talk about leaving your wide angle lens at 16mm and using it as a prime. I recently bought a 15mm prime, manual focus lens and I'm afraid it will make me lazy. Lock the focus on infinity and take the picture. I don't think that is good. The second thing is about not showing parts of what you ae seeing. I tell clients when I'm shooting their houses that I am really good at not shooting things. It always makes them relax. The third thing is I feel locked into landscape rather than portrait and I need to get over it.
Hi, I'm thinking about compositions you are talking about, and I feel that I photographers should benefit from an external monitor as the videographers . Sometimes I feel the same @4:35, something in frame is not right, not enough in frame, something you cant se on the tiny screen of mirrorless camera.
Thanks again Mark...... I am heading out this weekend for some Colorado Aspen fall pics and planned on using my Tamron 15-30 and now I know how to use it .... thanks!
Nice video, relaxed and to the point. Also good point with the composition and trying to put too much in the picture, less is more...never thought about it
Thank you for your tips on landscape photography. I am a newbie at photography but I do aspire to create some beautiful images as the ones in your video.
Thanks for great, and informative video. I am curious as to the camera attachment that you were using to create these vertical shots? It looks handier than a ball head. Thank you!
HI Mark, really enjoyed the video. Do you possibly have a tutorial explaining how you get this "satiny" - soft but still crisp look in your landscape photos?
Great show, Thanks!!!!!! The color range is unbelievable. I’d sure love to go out and take the same images with my Canon and see the contrast. I’m very impressed with your new camera!!!!!!
Very helpful video. Great images as examples! Could you say a little about WHERE you focus when your priority is getting what is close and underfoot (rocks, grass, flowers, etc.) in focus? Many of your examples are composed with foreground a key feature and in sharp focus. Without necessarily checking hyperfocal distance, would you get focus from what is underfoot, aim about a third into the frame, or go all the way out to infinity? (If needed maybe assume you are at about 20mm and maybe 11-13 f ???) I know there are lots and lots of variables but would really appreciate a bit of practical in-the-field advice.
Very informative, thank you! I haven’t liked the images from my 16-35mm and I think I’ve been making these mistakes. Going to use it more now and probably will be happier with the results 👍🏻
Oh my God, that last waterfall with the moss covered rocks....beautiful! I have been trying to focus stack, but get lost in photoshop! Afraid I'll mess up the original.
wiki.panotools.org/Enfuse might help. Forget photoshop. Develop your raws with rawtherapee to tiff or png (16 bit) then go from there. Beware! Enfuse is command line ;)
Really enjoying your videos Mark, and your teaching style. Very honest, to the point and easy to understand. I'd like to ask you how do you go about protecting the legs of your tripods when they are submerged in water (especially seawater!) If you are using RRS gear you obviously want them to last as long as possible and I know from experience that salt corrodes! Any advice would be appreciated.
Mark, very timely video. I found myself doing the same and took notes and will definitely be trying your hints and tips as I head out to shoot foliage this fall both in my local area in Western New York and on a trip through the Berkshire mountains of Western Massachusetts
WOW... Now that's what I call a lot of ideas and great knowledge to learn and work with, Mark... Thank you very much.. Never a dull moment.. I'm studying a Photography book written by Michael Freeman... Just part of my every day learning skills venture... Thanks Mark.. Stay safe.. Neville..
Hi Mark. Just catching up on your videos. Growing up in the mountains of NC, I thought I knew most off the waterfalls around the BRP. Please share the name of the one in your last video? Totally agree on using a polarizer filter, especially for the upcoming fall leaves and bright color contrasts with a Carolina blue sky background.
Yet again another awesome video Mark 👌🏻 I'm planning on getting out to one of our beautiful beaches here in Sydney Australia 🇦🇺this weekend and put to practise getting down lower and focus stacking. Fantastic tips once again mate, much appreciated 👍
Great tips! I did a shoot at that same waterfall recently and getting up close and personal with a big rock to make a more interesting foreground gave me a more interesting result than just capturing the falls itself. (Although it’s one of the prettiest waterfalls I’ve ever seen!) I wouldn’t have known to do that if it weren’t for photographers like you sharing so many insights on TH-cam!
Love the experience share!! Wide angler since Canon 1022 and Sony 1635 is great but the Voigtlander 10mm the widest. Like you stated wide is not for "getting it all in" but rather a subject close but getting interesting background. A mistake also is the distortion at the sides say indoors with windows and doors extended widely, better to do a indoor panorama so everything looks normal. Also for panoramas using the wide angle will give a bowl look near the camera so a longer lens setting and you will get more detail sharper of those far off things. Oh! keep it level with a horizon involved, even the camera can show level but it will show. And For those night Milky Ways stars will stream inwards at the upper corners due to lens trying to keep things straight up and down but the wide stretching of doors at the sides indoors happens with the night sky, curved lenses projecting on a flat sensor problem oh and stars are faster moving left and right if shooting eastward faster SS's.
Great video Mark! Your point about the ‘prime effect’ hit me like a truck. I had a look through my wide images and sure enough I shoot pegged at widest focal length and often crop (sometimes heavily) in post - oof.
Thanks Mark. An informative and thought providing video, as usual. My first lens was a pentax 50 m lens followed by a Pentax 85 m (God - I loved that lens). On film of course.
If you have only one wide angle lens and its a prime (like me - 24mm GM) you have a lot to walk to zoom in or out :. Great video thanks for sharing with us. Congrats to the winner.
17 40mm with the camera at a low angle to include foreground is something I have been doing for years.. I always tell my students this first up when they purchase their wide angle lenses. Thank you for the video Mark.
What was your first lens?
Canon 24-105 Zoom, was nice but heavy :)
18-150 mm EF-M and the 22MM f/2.0 EF-M for the canon M50
Tamron 70-200mm G2 for my nikon Z6
First lens was my 18-55mm that came with my camera. After that was a 70-300mm
My first lens was a pentacon 50mm 1.8 that I bought used for 30 bucks. That's what started my (still small) vintage lens collection :)
I just put in practice the "get close and embrace the distortion" motto, last week when shooting with a 16-35mm lens. A game changer for me. This video just reassured me that I am on the right path of getting better while enjoying what we do.
Glad to hear it was helpful!
Awesome video again! I love how you make yourself “vulnerable” by being upfront about the mistakes you made. Thank you for being yourself.
The best channel ever where learning from one's mistakes is the best way to improve one's photography skills
You have explained in a simple way how to use wide angle lens and make landscape photography look really beautiful.
I'm not a beginner but I made a HUGE rookie mistake yesterday evening photographing the sunset...LOw to the ground, long exposure over water & rocks...New landscape tripod with no center column...GREAT for this to the ground shots....BUT...Make sure to look carefully that your TRIPOD LEG isn't in the shot! LOL The legs on my new tripod are a bit longer than my older tripod so I'm still getting used to that. Plus I was under exposing the shot a bit to save the highlights so the shadows closer to me were a bit dark in the view screen. Luckily I saw it when I was looking at the shot while getting ready to go to the next shot. I was able to reset and take it again!
Thanks for doing this video, Mark. I enjoy learning from your mistakes. "Scene stuffing" is something I always try to catch myself from doing when I shoot ultrawide.
Thank you so much. I just bought my 17-35 mm Nikkor lens. These tips will help me making better photo.
that flatline tip, absolutely great! thank you for your generosity and willingness on sharing these tips Mark
i prefer the un-cropped lighthouse picture, it depicts the loneliness of the lighthouse, the Moab one was great wide too.
I was going to say the exact same thing about the lighthouse. It added emotion.
Dear Mark, thank you for this video and especially for the nice set of landscape examples! I loved them! As for the lighthouse picture, I would do exactly opposite cropping: I would cut off the left part of the frame almost up (or up) to the place where the road starts being visible after passing the trees... I mention this just to confirm that 1) wide angle shooting gives us space to fine-tune the picture even in the case it was not framed perfectly and 2) photography as an art is about personal taste of photographer and his vision and mood at the moment of shooting and processing. Many thanks for your work again!
"getting low". it's really great advice.
I love your examples and listening to your thought process while making corrections. Great video!
Great video. 2 takeaways for me. Edge patrol and the sign on the wall that says Slow Down.
Just noticed the Sony Sport Walkman on the desk! Hahah. Love the vids. Keep it up.
I’m learning so much from your videos. Thanks very much Mark.
Another great informative video Mark. my first wide zoom was a Tamron 10-24mm. Nowadays I have started taking my tablet with me, especially when I am away for a couple of days and what I like to do is get to the area of interest as early as possible take an extreme wide angle shot or two, then send the image to the tablet over the built in wi-fi connection between tablet and camera, this way I can examine the image on the bigger screen (10.1" tablet compared to the 3" on the back of the camera) then begin to roughly break down the wide view image into smaller individual images, so when the light is better and it is time to take the actual photographs, either by zooming in with the wide-angle zoom lens or changing to a bigger lens. Although in saying that, I sometimes forget and still try to cram it all into one or two images.
Your honesty and passionis appreciated. Thanks for sharing your expereince.
I always learn something new from your videos! Thank you!
Hi Mark, this is the kind of video that makes you pay attention to every photograph you take. Thanks a lot !
Let me ask you something, does photo stacking always requires a tripod ? Thanks.
Juan
I started very wide 14-24 and cropped a lot, then I progressed to a 24-70 and cropped, then to a 70-200 and cropped a little bit, now I use a 80-400mm and dont very often crop at all
Love the thoughtfulness put into your set design for theses videos.
Really appreciate that Chris - thank you!
Confronted by a scene that can't be captured with a single exposure, some folks stitch several exposures together to form a panorama. I learned the hard way that it doesn't work to make a panorama shot with exposures from a wide angle lens. The wide lens introduces distortions that make it impossible to use them for a panorama.
Yup. I've successfully stitched images at 35mm FF equiv, but anything wider than that and your pano program either gives up or the results are very poor. (Tip: Taking portrait orientation images work great for effective panos.)
Hi Mark. It was first time when I saw your video and must say that the amount of knowledge is amazing! I have Nikkor 10-20 ultra wide lens and I love it. It gives me a freedom to show exactly what I want to show. But there are many traps using such lenses which you mentioned in this video. I need to watch your other videos. It looks like I finally found the channel which contains usefull informations with examples. looking forward for next videos. Cheers
Fantastic video Mark!....added the bracketing video to my list of videos to watch...TY!
Thanks so much - hope you enjoy it!
With this video you have earned my subscription. More tips for beginners please, great content! :)
Thanks for sharing this Mark! Great video!
Very good information! Thank you very much.
Thanks Mark, for the warnings on the wide angle lens. I have one but not used it yet so I will now do those intresting low and close to good use, next time I go out will have the wide angle Nikon 12-24mm in my bag. Great subject and good info.
A great way to learn Mark, by watching your videos. Thanks for sharing.
I’m glad you think so Dave!
Great video. Thanks Mark!
I love the water blur on the first photo. Just enough to let you 'feel' the waterfall without looking totally fake.
Thanks Wade!
great video, i really appreciate learning from your shared observations and tips every week, thanks Mark.
Thanks so much!
It takes a master in whatever - who can assess his own talents or a certain lack thereof - honestly and correctly.
The window in the background is doing a pretty good job of face recognition ;)
My first (and only) lens is the Nikon DX 18-135 mm f3.5-5.6. To be perfectly honest it suits my needs well enough and I will hopefully be purchasing a fast prime lens to improve my portraits soon. Much love Mark keep up the good work.
Thanks a million Dominic!
Mark Denney anytime my friend
Just ordered the Tamron 10-24mm lens. First attempt at wide angle lens. Your video was excellent and has given me some food for thought on practicing with the new lens once I receive it.
I will use some of this knowledge here in the Philippines.
I literally slapped myself on the head when you said don’t forget to shoot vertical. I visited line rock in Utah and the photo I took of it was amazing but I always felt like it was missing something. Looking back at it I’m starting to think if I shot it in vertical it would’ve been *chefs kiss*
It's one of those, "Wow! I coulda had a V-8"! moments!!
Enjoy your video. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks Mark, another great educational video. I gain knowledge from each video and often think about methods you suggested while framing for a shot. Like spending more time to find the best composition.
Quite helpful advice. Well done. Thanks.
So true! I recently purchased a wide-angle lens 10-20 (15-30 in 35mm equivalent) and found that most of my first pictures were taken at 10mm... Thank you Mark, great video!
Thank you for this video for many reasons as I am reentering the world of photography again with fervency. Another thank you for the awareness that this video's generosity and how the thumbs down is so bogus and arbitrary on so many people's channel. This video was informative, kind, honest and generous - thank you - liked and subscribed.
I love shooting with my Tokina 11-16mm lens and usually stick to 11mm. I get some great results, but do find that I have the same issues with trying to stuff too much in. Also, when I shoot the night sky at 11mm, it shows off the distortion on the edges and there's no easy way to fix it, so i need to crop it.
For waterfalls, I like to use a vertical approach. Then you can get a lot more of the details
Learning a lot from your videos and your teaching style !!! Thank you. I am also impressed with the production quality of your videos, including sound. I don't see a lapel mic, so I am curious how you are doing sound and how you light your studio. Please keep the content coming . Next stop will be 1 mil. subscribers!!!
Thank you very much again for yet another informative and helpful video.
Glad to do it friend!
There ideas you mentioned resonated with me. You talk about leaving your wide angle lens at 16mm and using it as a prime. I recently bought a 15mm prime, manual focus lens and I'm afraid it will make me lazy. Lock the focus on infinity and take the picture. I don't think that is good. The second thing is about not showing parts of what you ae seeing. I tell clients when I'm shooting their houses that I am really good at not shooting things. It always makes them relax. The third thing is I feel locked into landscape rather than portrait and I need to get over it.
Hi, I'm thinking about compositions you are talking about, and I feel that I photographers should benefit from an external monitor as the videographers . Sometimes I feel the same @4:35, something in frame is not right, not enough in frame, something you cant se on the tiny screen of mirrorless camera.
Cristal clear. I'll keep that in mind once I'll use the 16mm I'm gonna get for Xmas. My actual lens is a 24-105mm F.4. Got a Lumix S1R. Cheers
Great vid, Mark. Yes I too thought "wide angle = wide area" capture only. Much more selective today.
Very GOOD videos
Your pictures are amazing!! I'm new to photography. Do I need to use a tripod to take this type photos when using a wide angle lens?
Great tips using a wide angle lens which I will put into practice, thanks Mark.
Glad you think so!
Thanks again Mark...... I am heading out this weekend for some Colorado Aspen fall pics and planned on using my Tamron 15-30 and now I know how to use it .... thanks!
Enjoy your trip Ken!
Nice video, relaxed and to the point. Also good point with the composition and trying to put too much in the picture, less is more...never thought about it
As always really well put across and very valuable tips, many thanks Mark.
Thank ya Ross!
Interesting with my wide angle zooms I always find myself zooming in all the way, I'm a telephoto kinda guy
Thank you for your tips on landscape photography. I am a newbie at photography but I do aspire to create some beautiful images as the ones in your video.
Thanks so much for the kind words Patricia!
Learning a lot from you Mark. Wonderful videos and extremely helpful insights on a number of topics!
Music to my ears - thank you Jerry!
Thanks for great, and informative video. I am curious as to the camera attachment that you were using to create these vertical shots? It looks handier than a ball head. Thank you!
HI Mark,
really enjoyed the video. Do you possibly have a tutorial explaining how you get this "satiny" - soft but still crisp look in your landscape photos?
Great advice Mark, What wide angle lens were you using here please
I find myself watching your videos with my little memo book that stays in my camera bag... Keep the tips coming
Really happy to hear the videos are helpful!
Love that pic at corona arch…miss that place
One quote I remember very well because it sums up things very nicely: Wide angle photography is close up photography.
Great show, Thanks!!!!!! The color range is unbelievable. I’d sure love to go out and take the same images with my Canon and see the contrast. I’m very impressed with your new camera!!!!!!
Thanks so much Terry! I am as well!
Very helpful video. Great images as examples! Could you say a little about WHERE you focus when your priority is getting what is close and underfoot (rocks, grass, flowers, etc.) in focus? Many of your examples are composed with foreground a key feature and in sharp focus. Without necessarily checking hyperfocal distance, would you get focus from what is underfoot, aim about a third into the frame, or go all the way out to infinity? (If needed maybe assume you are at about 20mm and maybe 11-13 f ???) I know there are lots and lots of variables but would really appreciate a bit of practical in-the-field advice.
Thank you so much~! This really helped me get things in the right perspective :) I am just a hobby photographer but I wish to learn more. Subbed :)
I just got a Canon EF S 10-22 thanks for your information from your video
Mark, can you explain a little more on negative space as well as what you mean by a flat image?
Thank you.
Very informative, thank you! I haven’t liked the images from my 16-35mm and I think I’ve been making these mistakes. Going to use it more now and probably will be happier with the results 👍🏻
Great Video! It makes me a better photographer. Trank you for this! Jan
Oh my God, that last waterfall with the moss covered rocks....beautiful! I have been trying to focus stack, but get lost in photoshop! Afraid I'll mess up the original.
wiki.panotools.org/Enfuse might help. Forget photoshop. Develop your raws with rawtherapee to tiff or png (16 bit) then go from there. Beware! Enfuse is command line ;)
14-24mm f/2.8 mostly for astro, but, you gave me the confidence to tackle the field in daytime, thank you Mark
Really enjoying your videos Mark, and your teaching style. Very honest, to the point and easy to understand. I'd like to ask you how do you go about protecting the legs of your tripods when they are submerged in water (especially seawater!) If you are using RRS gear you obviously want them to last as long as possible and I know from experience that salt corrodes! Any advice would be appreciated.
Mark, very timely video. I found myself doing the same and took notes and will definitely be trying your hints and tips as I head out to shoot foliage this fall both in my local area in Western New York and on a trip through the Berkshire mountains of Western Massachusetts
Great to hear the video was helpful Thomas!
WOW... Now that's what I call a lot of ideas and great knowledge to learn and work with, Mark... Thank you very much.. Never a dull moment.. I'm studying a Photography book written by Michael Freeman... Just part of my every day learning skills venture... Thanks Mark.. Stay safe.. Neville..
Thank you Thank you Thank you Neville!
Great information Mark!! As always, thanks for sharing! 🙂
Thanks Patty!
Hi Mark. Just catching up on your videos. Growing up in the mountains of NC, I thought I knew most off the waterfalls around the BRP. Please share the name of the one in your last video? Totally agree on using a polarizer filter, especially for the upcoming fall leaves and bright color contrasts with a Carolina blue sky background.
Great tips sir 👍 I've learned a lot from this video 👏
THANKS FOR THIS...I find myself always zooming to 24mm on my 12-24mm zoom lens....then further cropping the image in camera or in Lightroom! :)
Yet again another awesome video Mark 👌🏻 I'm planning on getting out to one of our beautiful beaches here in Sydney Australia 🇦🇺this weekend and put to practise getting down lower and focus stacking. Fantastic tips once again mate, much appreciated 👍
Awesome to hear Shane - enjoy those beautiful beaches!
First lens was a pana 25mm F1.7 but I quickly jumped on eBay to get a Helios 44m-4, love that vintage glass.
haven't watched your videos in awhile, but when did you switch to fujifilm and why? great vid!
Thanks so much! I fully switched a couple of months ago, but have been using Fuji for video for over a year
You can find an interesting video about his decision on this channel.
Nice advice ! Thanks
Great tips! I did a shoot at that same waterfall recently and getting up close and personal with a big rock to make a more interesting foreground gave me a more interesting result than just capturing the falls itself. (Although it’s one of the prettiest waterfalls I’ve ever seen!) I wouldn’t have known to do that if it weren’t for photographers like you sharing so many insights on TH-cam!
Thanks Josh - really appreciate that man!
Well explained how to get best out of wide angle lens while landscape photography.
Thanks so much for watching!
Awesome information... Thank You!!! Love your videos...
Love the violet background
Love the experience share!! Wide angler since Canon 1022 and Sony 1635 is great but the Voigtlander 10mm the widest. Like you stated wide is not for "getting it all in" but rather a subject close but getting interesting background. A mistake also is the distortion at the sides say indoors with windows and doors extended widely, better to do a indoor panorama so everything looks normal. Also for panoramas using the wide angle will give a bowl look near the camera so a longer lens setting and you will get more detail sharper of those far off things. Oh! keep it level with a horizon involved, even the camera can show level but it will show. And For those night Milky Ways stars will stream inwards at the upper corners due to lens trying to keep things straight up and down but the wide stretching of doors at the sides indoors happens with the night sky, curved lenses projecting on a flat sensor problem oh and stars are faster moving left and right if shooting eastward faster SS's.
Was only about 4 month’s ago you got to 100k subs now you have 135k, 35k subs in 4 months! Good going that, well deserved😀😀
Thanks so much! Very exciting!
Great tips/instruction. Thanks! Would you mind sharing the name/location of the fall waterfall (tall) in the video? Thank you. Jackie (Asheville)
Great tips. I try to work each of them into my wide-angle images.
Thank you Roger!
Excellent, as always!
Many thanks!
Great video Mark! Your point about the ‘prime effect’ hit me like a truck. I had a look through my wide images and sure enough I shoot pegged at widest focal length and often crop (sometimes heavily) in post - oof.
Thanks Damien! It was a real eye opener for me as well!
Thanks Mark. An informative and thought providing video, as usual. My first lens was a pentax 50 m lens followed by a Pentax 85 m (God - I loved that lens). On film of course.
If you have only one wide angle lens and its a prime (like me - 24mm GM) you have a lot to walk to zoom in or out :. Great video thanks for sharing with us. Congrats to the winner.
Thank you Brano! Thats a good prime lens!
17 40mm with the camera at a low angle to include foreground is something I have been doing for years..
I always tell my students this first up when they purchase their wide angle lenses.
Thank you for the video Mark.
Glad to do it and thank you for checking it out!