I'm your 124th subscriber. Retired pilot with now a surplus of time and also a 3d printing hobby. I did the same on my V400, used a buck converter to power Noctua fans, my converters didn't have a read-out so I had to use a multimeter to get the right voltage. I like your videos and presentation, keep it up. TH-cam can be finicky on how and when certain channels take off, but I found your video in my recommends, so hopefully they're boosting your work.
Thank you for the kind words! Is the V400 a Delta printer? It would be nice for TH-cam to favor me but I’m only just starting and have plenty to learn before I expect any return! Best of luck 124!
I've done this almost eaxct same mod several times. You can also cut away the metal in front of the intake. It may not be quieter, however it changes the pitch of the fan.
Hey! Not a bad idea at all! I definitely noticed that placing my hand over the vent changed the sound a lot. Maybe there's a small cover to add that muffles the sound without hindering air flow? Thanks for you comment!
As you asked for the possible ideas for future videos, just spitballing some project ideas (sorry for the Vyper bias): - a custom designed hotend (maybe aesthetically similar to StealthBurner, but with Orbiter) - Equipping the CANBus board with more hardware (Orbiter filament sensor, BLTouch / Pinda, lights / etc) - it's not clear to me if it has enough pins? - your solution for Klipper config backups - linear rails - enclosure and filters (nevermore, bento box) - high temps printing If you want to just rake a lot of views, just test a bunch of different filaments - such topics always attract viewers :)
Haha, you must be reading my mind. All of those are on the docket except for the config solution. Can you elaborate on that? I was planning on going more in depth on Macros/doing an overview of all the possibilities with Klipper. I’ve definitely considered talking about/testing a few filaments, but I’m not sure how entertaining I could be or how much I can bring to the table at the moment. I’ll be moving in a few months so hopefully I can get a “studio” setup and be able to do some testing!
Nice! I just uploaded a new video using a 92mm noctua fan for cooling my motherboard. It’s still a bit louder than I’d like. I may run it at 8V instead but in the future I’ll lean towards a 120mm fan!
Hey, a nice update! I think the stock power supply is also capable of 350W though? Measuring via a smart plug, the printer consumes ~300W to get the bed heated to the temperature (and then much less to sustain it), and about additional 40W when the hotend is working. PS: another source of printer noise is that "jet" cover on the hotend cooling fan, that comes with HeroMe 7. I took it away, and the fan us barely heard without it.
Hey! I guess my main reason for the new PSU was so that I KNEW what it was capable of. I didn’t even think to check my smart plug lol. The stock power supply is going to be used in the future to control accessories or other project so I was going to buy another at some point! I agree on the jet cover. I’m planning to change up my print head when I have some extra design time and that will definitely be coming off. Thanks for your support!!
Hey, man, just a sidenote. 10dB A are a perceived doubling of noise. So 19 to 36 would be more than double the noise. I don't think that's accurate in your case, since the shrouding generates turbulence and therefore noise. A spacer between fan and shroud would help, but increase the thickness even further. Btw , your input shaping video brought me here, well made!
Thanks! I discovered that after I published the video thanks to another commenter. I think the other issue is that I live in a noisy environment, so I just can't get an accurate reading of the noise itself. But, it is much quieter that the last fan! Thank you for your support!
Nice idea! I think to use a larger fan you’d have to make the adapter even taller as there are some clearance concerns. Personally, I think Noctua, while more expensive, isn’t overpaying. I appreciate their products and definitely have some brand loyalty. If you design a way to use a larger fan then be sure to share it with everyone!
Hey, you're right in one way. It's a bit of a complex topic. A 3dB change is a doubling of power, a 6dB change is a doubling of sound pressure level, and a 10dB change is roughly double the perceived loudness for a human (since our hearing is more on a log-scale not a linear one. Same with our vision!) In truth, I think the reduction was more than just 27->30 because to my ears it sounds a good bit quieter. Thanks for your comment!
Pretty sure that is a PS-SP11625 "Aliexpress" version with a "meanwell" sticker on it An real LRS-350-24 is 3cm thick good luck with the 2.5cm fan :P (oh and it has fan control it goes higher and lower on the temperature :P I use a LRS-450-24 with two 92cm fans :P
Stop replacing or adding plastic parts to PSU housings. The METAL housings are there to prevent issues and stop EMI issues if something goes wrong. This can cause a fire and good luck getting your homeowners insurance to cover if the PSU causes a fire because you modified a UL listed device to add plastic on where metal should be. Sharing bad information like you are can hurt someone if something goes wrong. STOP MODDING PSU HOUSINGS WITH PLASTIC.
Hi, thanks for your comment! I 100% appreciate the concern, but I disagree in this case. No pun intended. I don’t believe EMI is an issue in this environment, and often isn’t with these low powered supplies. I believe the metal casing is for more practical considerations like strength of the housing, thermal management, etc… Lower power adapters like wall warts or laptop chargers are encased in plastic. I did fail to mention in the video that you should ground the lid to the rest of the enclosure as we just electrically isolated it. I’ll be sure to add a note of that to the printables page and description. Thank you for the concern, and I’d be happy to chat more about it.
I'm your 124th subscriber. Retired pilot with now a surplus of time and also a 3d printing hobby. I did the same on my V400, used a buck converter to power Noctua fans, my converters didn't have a read-out so I had to use a multimeter to get the right voltage. I like your videos and presentation, keep it up. TH-cam can be finicky on how and when certain channels take off, but I found your video in my recommends, so hopefully they're boosting your work.
Thank you for the kind words! Is the V400 a Delta printer? It would be nice for TH-cam to favor me but I’m only just starting and have plenty to learn before I expect any return! Best of luck 124!
I've done this almost eaxct same mod several times. You can also cut away the metal in front of the intake. It may not be quieter, however it changes the pitch of the fan.
Hey! Not a bad idea at all! I definitely noticed that placing my hand over the vent changed the sound a lot. Maybe there's a small cover to add that muffles the sound without hindering air flow? Thanks for you comment!
As you asked for the possible ideas for future videos, just spitballing some project ideas (sorry for the Vyper bias):
- a custom designed hotend (maybe aesthetically similar to StealthBurner, but with Orbiter)
- Equipping the CANBus board with more hardware (Orbiter filament sensor, BLTouch / Pinda, lights / etc) - it's not clear to me if it has enough pins?
- your solution for Klipper config backups
- linear rails
- enclosure and filters (nevermore, bento box)
- high temps printing
If you want to just rake a lot of views, just test a bunch of different filaments - such topics always attract viewers :)
Haha, you must be reading my mind. All of those are on the docket except for the config solution. Can you elaborate on that? I was planning on going more in depth on Macros/doing an overview of all the possibilities with Klipper.
I’ve definitely considered talking about/testing a few filaments, but I’m not sure how entertaining I could be or how much I can bring to the table at the moment. I’ll be moving in a few months so hopefully I can get a “studio” setup and be able to do some testing!
A change is worth it. I switch to 120mm fan, gives awesome silent result.👌
Nice! I just uploaded a new video using a 92mm noctua fan for cooling my motherboard. It’s still a bit louder than I’d like. I may run it at 8V instead but in the future I’ll lean towards a 120mm fan!
@@SpencersDesk bigger fans are always the way to go. much more airflow at a much lower db cost. also it's easy and there's tons of space.
Hey, a nice update! I think the stock power supply is also capable of 350W though? Measuring via a smart plug, the printer consumes ~300W to get the bed heated to the temperature (and then much less to sustain it), and about additional 40W when the hotend is working.
PS: another source of printer noise is that "jet" cover on the hotend cooling fan, that comes with HeroMe 7. I took it away, and the fan us barely heard without it.
Hey! I guess my main reason for the new PSU was so that I KNEW what it was capable of. I didn’t even think to check my smart plug lol. The stock power supply is going to be used in the future to control accessories or other project so I was going to buy another at some point! I agree on the jet cover. I’m planning to change up my print head when I have some extra design time and that will definitely be coming off. Thanks for your support!!
Hey, man, just a sidenote. 10dB A are a perceived doubling of noise. So 19 to 36 would be more than double the noise. I don't think that's accurate in your case, since the shrouding generates turbulence and therefore noise. A spacer between fan and shroud would help, but increase the thickness even further. Btw , your input shaping video brought me here, well made!
Thanks! I discovered that after I published the video thanks to another commenter. I think the other issue is that I live in a noisy environment, so I just can't get an accurate reading of the noise itself. But, it is much quieter that the last fan! Thank you for your support!
If there is space inside i would chose different route. Cut bigger hole and slap there slower 120mm fan. No need to overpaying for noctua.
Nice idea! I think to use a larger fan you’d have to make the adapter even taller as there are some clearance concerns.
Personally, I think Noctua, while more expensive, isn’t overpaying. I appreciate their products and definitely have some brand loyalty. If you design a way to use a larger fan then be sure to share it with everyone!
27 vs 30 dB is substantial, that's twice as much (or half as much).
Hey, you're right in one way. It's a bit of a complex topic. A 3dB change is a doubling of power, a 6dB change is a doubling of sound pressure level, and a 10dB change is roughly double the perceived loudness for a human (since our hearing is more on a log-scale not a linear one. Same with our vision!) In truth, I think the reduction was more than just 27->30 because to my ears it sounds a good bit quieter. Thanks for your comment!
Which model is the PSU, and the Noctua fan? :D
Hey! There should be links in the description. But the PSU is a MeanWell 24 LRS 350 and the noctua is a 6x25 I believe!
Pretty sure that is a PS-SP11625 "Aliexpress" version with a "meanwell" sticker on it
An real LRS-350-24 is 3cm thick good luck with the 2.5cm fan :P (oh and it has fan control it goes higher and lower on the temperature :P
I use a LRS-450-24 with two 92cm fans :P
Well isn’t this unfortunate haha. I guess Amazon is just aliexpress but faster
everything is better with a noctua fan
A person of culture has entered the comments
Stop replacing or adding plastic parts to PSU housings. The METAL housings are there to prevent issues and stop EMI issues if something goes wrong. This can cause a fire and good luck getting your homeowners insurance to cover if the PSU causes a fire because you modified a UL listed device to add plastic on where metal should be. Sharing bad information like you are can hurt someone if something goes wrong. STOP MODDING PSU HOUSINGS WITH PLASTIC.
Hi, thanks for your comment! I 100% appreciate the concern, but I disagree in this case. No pun intended.
I don’t believe EMI is an issue in this environment, and often isn’t with these low powered supplies. I believe the metal casing is for more practical considerations like strength of the housing, thermal management, etc… Lower power adapters like wall warts or laptop chargers are encased in plastic. I did fail to mention in the video that you should ground the lid to the rest of the enclosure as we just electrically isolated it. I’ll be sure to add a note of that to the printables page and description. Thank you for the concern, and I’d be happy to chat more about it.
@@SpencersDeskwell, if there is a fire, thats your house burnin down not mine.
Let’s just pray that no one has to go through that!