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I think I'll just blast air at the prints and set up an annealing box if I really need to, probably my old toaster oven with a digital tempurature probe stuck in it to make sure I don't melt the part while tuning the tempurature on the analog dial. I have a new oven, old one doesn't need to be food safe anymore. I use the Mini-Me for my Ender 3 Pro as my current cooling duct, it's not going to be as good as adding aftermarket fans but my print quality has gone way up since I put it on.

You saved me a ton! I have this issue recently, I just followed what you did except on disassembling the printer. But still, it works well… Thank you so much! 🙌

You could have mounted the buck converter together with the other electronics, and only ran a single additional 12v wire to the print head :)

i figured out that the amount of 1300 euro arent enough for a good printer, better take 8000 with you and maybe you have a semi-good printer. printing since 2008. also figured out use 1300 euro to build your own printer makes more sens. prusa overrated, x1c as well.

Earnest feedback: focus. If you recut this video with only part cooling content, I’d happily watch. As is, this video’s tangents distract from its pedagogical value.

Oh

first time hearing music from a 3d printer. but stepper music IS awesome! th-cam.com/video/O9aorO9_gVA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ZtswhtaxIjDfb0Gz

woah. the diagnosing printer part was very illuminating. a lot of vids I've seen just chuck the shaper on and move on after setting the profiles. what you mentioned, but didn't explain, is why one would have input shaper permanently on.

I did the same thing that stoopin hme6 dual fan no way to bolt it up...

ty iam going through the same problem atm ty for great helpful infomation ....tony m

your videos are crazy good. very informative and well presented

the better wifi is an external antena effect, the electronics case is screening it from external signals

cannot belive there is a signgle thing thats this complicated that people are going to go through if its not their job and if they are not qualified. 3d print community is sth wild really. Like everyone are programmers.

transitions are too much otherwise quality content

Duuude i love your channel, but I have a core xy printer and it seems that your channel is very bedslinger oriented?

Very good quality video, thanks

now i know why my projects never get finished lol

mine snapped :{

I grinded the screw off and haven't removed it but probs should

It would be fun to see how the aluminium bracket changes if skeletonized, what about something exotic like titanium? PCBway offers titanium last I checked (and again, skeletonized vs solid)

Informative video. Very well done. My only input is the lubricant used. With all the particulate matter frothed up by the movement of print bed and extruder, that sticky grease is going to catch a lot of it a end up causing an increase in friction. Clean all that goo off, go to auto parts store and get dry silicone spray lubricant. Spray it evenly on the rails with the bits in motion. It’ll be slicker than snot. Don’t sweat the haters and those over critical of your content. They probably couldn’t perform for their daily session of self abuse and have to lash out. Thanks for the video! Oh, my vote for video topic would be for linear motor upgrade to your printer. That’s next level. Cheers

Hi, what music do you play in the background?

the smaller the machine, the less linear rails will help. I would not bother with linear rail on most designs smaller than 250mm. on larger machines, belt stretch starts to matter and vslot bearings will start failing to hold things in place. resonances will be worse in the 400mm/s regime

I have to do the same with my S3U =/

The main issue with the vat/frame joint is that it uses two materials: steel bolt and aluminum frame with threaded holes. Due to hardness difference it wears off.

Please consider the remark this video after you learn more about input_shaper results interpretation. Issues Example at 27:09: -The left graphs has a results of 1e3 instead 1e4 of greater...that's mean that likely a mechanical part is binding during the test. -in Right graphs top, you can see that two CSV files was use to make the result (you have made a average of two results) don't forget to delete previous results before making a new graphs

Great video. Well done

Great video, minor suggestion: lower the guitar mix. It cuts through like you want in a song, but over your narration it gets to noisy and with a single earbud in i felt like i had to listen over another video. Thank you for providing the info on the test!

Ok but how much did those PCBway parts cost? Literally nobody ever says anything about that bit.

very impressive!

Carbon fiber would be interesting because its also very light.

I want my Kobra neo to play this! ahaha so awesome!

I just upgraded my Ender 3 to rails. No regrets, simply because I don't have to worry about flatspotting anymore. I only paid $60 for both x and y axis upgrades, though.

It would be neat to append the gcode for the Final Fantasy fanfare to the end of a regular print.

Is it possible to angage also the extruder motor? Great project and explaination!

i would've wished for a midi compiler, time is time though and formatting something as complex as midi to a 3 axis system would be hard.

Most people here probably already have heard of youtube.com/@DeviceOrchestra - same concept, different devices

I have once started a similar project, but I just used a stepper motor as is, so there was no fancy code for not crashing the hardware. I've just used an arduino with an H-bridge to drive the motor and bolted it to a piece of wood. Without any microstepping and the wood as resonance body, the produced sounds were insanely loud.

i will play this when i'm sleeping

Damn. It's unironically good 😂. Good job bro, it's mighty impressive.

Nice project. I like the hand drawn graphics and it is nice to listen and folow your explainations, but i don't like that the musik is playing constantly in the background. It clashes with the musik demonstrations on the piano or on the printer.

I don't know how I ended up here but this was fascinating and it was fun to follow along with maths. 11/10!

FATHER LET ME FUFILL MY PURPOSE!! NO, PLAY SEA SHANTY

Great work! It might be interesting to see a video explaining the math for how you prevent the gcode from exceeding the X-Y-Z axis range limits of your printer.

just use MIDI protocol my man. dont reinvent the wheel. that way, people can play whatever MIDI melodies they already have without going through the process of learning an obscure youtube pseudo language.

I love the explanations you did, they where really easy to understand :)

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Nice! Would be great on some old printer like an ender 3 that doesn’t have a “silent board” so it’s easier to make sound as they make a lot more noise even when going slow. Or disabling stealth chop

Midi to gcode?

G-code?