Creality Ender 3 Pro Meanwell Power Supply Fan Upgrade Slim 80mm | FINALLY Making the PSU Quiet!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- This is the fourth part of our journey to take the Ender 3 Pro from purchase to printing flexible TPU parts for our drones and quadcopters. In this part, we focus on some more noise management by swapping the stock PSU fan with a quiet 80mm fan.
Make sure you are able to and comfortable with working on a high voltage power supply before attempting. Mangorille is not responsible for risk of shock or worse!
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Videos you may want to check out
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Playlist: Creality Ender 3 Pro | The JOURNEY to Printing Flexible TPU Filament Drone & Quadcopter Parts:
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Items suggested in this video
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GDSTIME 80mm x 80mm x 10mm 12V 2PIN DC Brushless Cooling Fan:
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SUNLU 3D Printer Filament, PLA Filament 1.75 mm Black 1kg Spool (2.2 lbs)
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Amazon Canada: amzn.to/3ljF7xi
OVERTURE PETG Filament 1.75mm, 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Black:
Amazon US: amzn.to/34JN7Cx
Amazon Canada: amzn.to/2KT1YUd
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Thingiverse Things
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Ender 3 Pro - PSU Thin Fan Cover (80x80x10, Mean Well LRS-350-24): www.thingivers...
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Tunes
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a thing you could do which is not necessary but if you really want to make sure no power is in the power supply.
turn it on after you have taken out the power plug and leave it on for a moment before you take it out.
it will drain the remaining charge that might be in any capacitor so you will have a less chance of shorting any of the components.
The same way you do with your computers power supply and it doesnt hurt anything to do so and it minimizes a risk that may or may not be there
better to be on the safe side boys
Great suggestion, thanks for sharing!
Thank you for this tip! Actually helpful instead of just commenting that this work can be dangerous, are there any other best safety practices to be aware of when working with a PSU like this?
I thought the same thing when I seen him digging that wire out right after unplugging lol, gotta be careful with electricity.
Just done my upgrade, thanks for the video and responses mate. The fan is much quieter now.
Here is a bit of feedback for you and others that will be doing the upgrade.
1) The case you linked to on Thingiverse didn't fit for me. The 80mm fan was too large and the case wouldn't close as the fan's plastic housing was pushing against the big yellow part (don't know its name) that was fixed on the circuit board. I therefore used the remixed psu cover that was on the same Thingiverse link. Someone had remixed it to fit a 80x25mm fan instead. That worked perfectly.
2) For a beginner like me I had a lot of trouble getting the wires out of the small white clip when using a screwdriver. In the end I saw a video on youtube that recommended using the little metal attachment you get with iphones, which pops the sim card out and that worked fine to get the cables out.
3) Lastly I switched the fan around. As you had the fan on backwards, the sticker should be on the inside. I know on the original thingiverse psu cover the fan blades were catching against the cover, but that isnt an issue with the remixed psu cover.
Cheers again.
Hey David, glad it worked out for you and congrats on completing the mod! The case linked only works with the fan linked as it requires a slim fan (80x10) otherwise the fan will run into the transformer (yellow part). I actually provided that feedback to the Thingiverse designer and he updated his listing to indicate that it only works with 80x80x10 fans. Good suggestion on using the iPhone paperclip! The fan being "backwards" is something that had to be done because the blades were hitting the case . Sounds like you did not have this problem. Thanks again for your feedback and happy printing!
The fan can face either way because there are cut outs at the bottom and there is just one fan. In fact, you could argue that it would be better to have the fan facing out like in this video to aid convection and as an added bonus, reduce dust build up. Neither way is wrong.
You say "For a beginner like me I had a lot of trouble getting the wires out of the small white clip when using a screwdriver."
This has nothing to do with being a beginner. This is about using the right tool for the job. If the tool isn't working, then think of a better tool, whatever it is. A staple would have worked too, so would have the smooth end of a needle, a safety pin, the pointy end of the nail file of a nail clipper, etc.
I really want to tell you this because blaming this difficulty on "being a beginner" sets you up with the wrong mindset of being dependent on others for solutions rather than finding solutions yourself. You had trouble when using a screwdriver because the screwdriver was too big, which you should have noticed yourself. The solution then was obviously to think of something smaller you could use, which I'm sure your household has plenty of. You did not need a video to tell you that.
This also highlights the importance of buying tools. Having the right tool for the job will get you half the way there.
@@expression3639 all wrongly assumed and nothing to do with mindset. I was watching a tutorial video and would obviously try and follow it as close as possible to avoid errors. I used the same size screwdriver as the video and noticed quite a few others had the same problem. I was just giving feedback to let others know what worked for me. Take your negativity elsewhere, change your mindset or you will accomplish nothing.
do you have the link to the new PSU case?
You had the new fan on backwards, the sticker is supposed to be on the other side. Instead of pushing fresh air in you are now sucking air out.
Hey. It actually won't work in the stock push orientation because the fan blades will catch on the printed mount. You can make it work using spacers and what not but it shouldn't make any difference because the fan will simply pull air through the vents. Most computer power supplies work by pulling air through the power supply rather than pushing air into it. :)
@@Mangorille well the original designer has it that way I guess his fan is different but most pc power supplies actually do have a fan pushing fresh air on to the components and pushing it out through other vents in the psu. But I guess it works either way just negative pressure usually attracts more dust
@@sebastianpederson7619 You've got a good eye. I looked back at the Thingiverse page and the designer is using two screws only. Perhaps when you add four screws it pulls the fan too close and the blades catch. I'm sure you can make it work with a small washer between the fan and the case if you preferred to keep the stock push configuration. I suspect it doesn't matter as much considering both the intake and exhaust are out in the open anyway.
@@Mangorille right direction is "sucking in" ;)
@@emtrax Thanks bud, suppose a couple of washers to space the fan and prevent the blades from hitting would make that possible.
After upgrading to the BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V2.0, this is the perfect compliment to make the Ender 3 Pro even more silent. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment, agree! Next you'll need to change the hot end fan, that's the other noisy part. :)
@@Mangorille Do you have any reccomendations for the hot-end fans?
@@mattevans7352 Yes sir, there is another video on my channel for upgrading the hot end fan. th-cam.com/video/LJ2Pnw8_cEA/w-d-xo.html
Nice upgrade! I recently did a similar one to the PSU fan on my Ender 3 Pro. But instead I elected to do the one that used an externally mounted 92mm fan (with grill) as I had a spare 92mm Noctua on hand. When the PSU kicks on or off, you can't tell. Even with your ear right beside it. Next up: Hot end and electronic's fans are getting the Noctua treatment.
Thanks bud. I tried the externally mounted 80x80x25 fan and found that it made no difference for noise or cooling. Liked the sleek look of the slim 80x80x10. Really, any 80mm+ fan is going to be a huge upgrade for the noise level. Combine this with the Noctua hot end and electronics fan and you've got a nearly silent printer!
@@Mangorille When I bought the printer initially, I couldn't really hear the PSU fan noise very much. The stepper driver noise obscured most of it. Once I installed the SKR mini e3 board, I was like, oh, this is pretty quiet now. But the hotend and electronics fans are little loud but not too....and then suddenly HOLY CRAP the PSU fan kicks on. It was like a hair dryer.
Hahah sounds familiar! ;)
I'm a big Noctua fan (pun not intended). HOw did you mount your 92mm?
Easier than repining the connector is just to pull the plastic housing off the board and reinstall it the other way round.
Works too, thanks!
Just curious what about the power supply silencer? air flow? Temperature? Any issues?
No issues. This is to silence it.
FYI I saw another video of this conversion and it noted that there are 2 different fan cases from thingiverse one is for the ender 3 and the other is for the ender3 pro
Thanks for the heads up. Correct, the ender 3 pro uses the meanwell power supply. Not sure if the ender 3 regular has switched over to the meanwell but now as well but at the time of filming it hadn't.
You installed the fan backwards. The label is on the side that the direction the air flows. The air should flow into the PSU. Otherwise great video!
Thanks bud, a few other folks said the same thing. Haven't had an issue yet and it was done to avoid having to shim the fan otherwise the blades were hitting the printed case.
make sure the fan orientation is the same as it seems to be reversed in the video.
Agree, I flipped it around as the fan blades were interfering with the housing after tightening. Hasn't caused any problems.
Great video! Anyone have a guide on how to crimp and reinsert the JST connector? Mines just not going in, spent 4 hours with this tiny little piece
Someone posted that he was able to remove and turn the plastic guide on the power supply board around vs. changing the connector. I haven't tried that so use at your own risk.
@@Mangorille interesting, i got it working anyway, I made a mistake and used the Noctua 80 x 25mm fan instead, the connectors and that one were a bit strange so I swapped them for JST connectors which worked, now its all silent! Did your hotend build as well, appreciate all the hard work that goes into these videos
@@srn2529 Welcome. Surprised you were able to fit a 25mm fan in there.
I realised my mistake and mounted the fan to the outside haha, will probably use the slim line fan in the future
@@swm2058 It will function the same but just won't look as nice. Make sure you don't get your fingers in there.
could you modify this to work with a 80X80X15 fan? thats the only thing i can find on amazon in the usa
Unfortunately not this design. There are other 3d print files designed for a thicker fan but they won't be as sleek looking.
I know very little about electronics. On other videos I have seen when switching fans they use buck converters when using a fan that isnt built for 24 volts. Does that not apply this 12 volt Fan?
Hey David. It all depends on the power supply your Ender 3 is using. The Ender 3 Pro with the Meanwell uses a 12 volt fan already so there is no need for a buck converter to alter the voltage. I believe the normal non-pro Ender 3 uses a 24 volt fan so you would need a buck converter to drop the voltage from 24 to 12. Easiest is to double check the fan that is already in there to find out. Also, make sure you are comfortable working with the power supply, you can shock or hurt yourself!
@@Mangorille thanks. I do have the ender 3 pro. Do you check the current fans voltage with a meter or will it say it on the actual voltage on the fan?
@@zombieshart1001 It would be listed on the fan's label. Check out the video at 3:04.
@@Mangorille This is incorrect. Regardless of whether it is 12v or 24v, Creality ships 12v fans in 24v PSU's. Thats the main reason why the PSU fan is so loud is because it is a 12v fan being forced to run at 24v speeds. Either replace with the same voltage level or use a buck converter.
@@yoko312 Even the older non-meanwell power supplies? Regardless, best to check the voltage rating of the fan so you know for sure.
Since this video’s old, I’m not sure if you’ll se this. Is it alright if since the fan is a DC fan, if you swap the red and black wires around so it spins in the opposite direction? This would mean that you don’t have to turn the fan backwards for mounting, right?
No, the fan needs to be connected in the correct polarity in order to even spin. What you could do is use some spacers so that the fan blades do not hit the case and then run it in the stock blowing direction.
@@Mangorille awesome. Thank you for replying
@@urboyluke_ No problem, happy printing!
you didn't need to reverse the fan wires, motors arent polarity sensitive, it'd just run backwards(reletive to the arrow usually molded onto the side of the fan)
Not sure about that, I always thought they have polarity but never tried it honestly. I do however believe that the fan blades are designed for efficient operation in one direction only.
@@Mangorille you’re correct about the efficiency part. It only matters if the fans a pwm
No it won't.
Be good to see it working, or did the 24v blow the 12v fan up??
Ya should have included that in the video. The stock fan is actually 12volts, check out 3:02 in the video.
Is there a way to tell what voltage of fan you have without opening the psu? Also to clarify, will the 24V version of this fan work for the upgrade? Thanks
You should match the volts on your current psu. So if you have a 12v use a 12v fan. I don't think a 24v will work in its place. At least you won't get the optimal rpm to cool as well.
The other guy's comment is incorrect. You can't just match the fan to the power supply as they aren't always the same voltage. My original power supply is 24 V and has a 24 volt fan, my new meanwell power supply is 24V but has a 12V fan. Unfortunately you just have to open the power supply and check the fan to find out.
@@MachineChrist6 This is incorrect but I can definitely understand why it would seem this way. Unfortunately you can't just match the fan to the power supply as they aren't always the same voltage. My original power supply is 24 V and has a 24 volt fan, my new Meanwell power supply is 24V but has a 12V fan. Unfortunately you just have to open the power supply and check the fan to find out.
Thank you for the heads up! Definitely info I didn't know. :)
Hey! Thanks for posting this video. I came on looking for a replacement 60mm fan and now think I will be doing it this way. Have you had any issues with the PSU heat warping the PLA cover? The aluminum cover was likely not doing too much heat dissipation but I figure that is a consideration too. I think I will probably try to pull air in as designed so the fresh air is going exactly where intended. It is possible that by pushing air out the airflow may not be as designed. I am guessing with the bigger fan it would just go a little faster if that indeed was an issue depending on where the thermistor is installed. Have you had any issues at all using this setup? If all good I will order from your affiliate links. I will be watching your other videos as well regarding the extruder fan and main board fan.
Hey. You're welcome. Did not have any issues with warping in the cover, the power supply doesn't get hot enough to wrap PLA. You can always print in PETG for extra peace of mind though. The larger fan would spin slower to move the same if not more air. Have not had an issue to date. Thanks for your support!
@@Mangorille Thanks again. I have ordered the PS fan and the hot end fan as well as two buck converters using your links. I did not see a link for the noctua 4010 for the mainboard so I just ordered that through amazon search. I need this as quiet as I can get it with it still working. Guessing your recommendation is option two from your video. Even though these fans are more expensive than the 24V fans you can get through TH3D I saved a lot as TH3D shipping to Canada was $39 US on top of the $24 for the two fans needed. I also read they are not necessarily much quieter than the stock ender fans.
@@mmicker007 Thanks for the update. Those upgrades will reduce the fan noise almost to zero. Do you already have the silent board or the SKR Mini board? The next source of noise are the drivers that come with the stock board.
Yes that was the first upgrade I did. Much quieter with the 4.2.7 board.
@@mmicker007 Great, ya, makes a big difference!
I swapped out my fan but when I plugged the psu back into my printer I had already plugged the psu into the wall and it jolted the main board. now the screen comes on but it is blank :( I have the silent board and it has a fuse but the fuse is not blown and it is still lit up. maybe I need to re load the software? please help!!!
Hey. Did you by any chance take anything else apart other than the power supply? Is the ribbon cable going to the display fully plugged in and in the correct slot? If you have a SD card installed, try taking it out. If those all check out, put the stock fan back in and see if it turns on okay.
@@Mangorille I only swapped the fan, thats the only thing. All the fuses are intact and the board is getting the power it needs. I took out the micro sd and it still doesnt work
If that’s the case, try putting the original fan back in and see if it solves it.
@@Mangorille i put my old main board back on to do some urgent prints, the new 80mm fan works perfect. I guess the overvolt protection on the silent board is just not effective
i have dual z axis motor,i need it for the heavy million things on the gantry X axis rail , where else i can mount this . i have dual motor xy n z
Hey. Where do you have your power supply mounted right now?
run a earth lead from PSU to the printer,scrape the coating to get a good earth ,did it with mine then I put the PSU out of site on a shelf.
This is really dangerous. I recommend getting proper OSHA training and master electricians before attempting.
100%, make sure you are qualified and comfortable before attempting work on any power supply. This was mentioned in the video and video description.
You cut the video at the sound test
Unfortunately ran out of battery but it is substantially quieter!
Great channel. Is there a version for Ender 3 ?
Does your Ender 3 have the Meanwell or the standard power supply? This one is for the Meanwell only.
@@Mangorille standard, thanks anyway for the reply !
And cue the generic TH-cam music and go!
The problem is you did 99.9%... You didn't confirm on video whether or not it worked or you had any problems 🙄 kind of a big step to leave out in this whole process
Ya, some others mentioned the same. The end of the video got corrupted and I did not want to re-shoot in my haste to get the video out.
Hello, can you provide information on the printed parts used on the hot end? (The 40*20 fan mount and the stock parts cooler fan mount) Thank you.
Hey bud. I've got a video of the fan upgrade here: th-cam.com/video/LJ2Pnw8_cEA/w-d-xo.html
@@Mangorille Great, thank you.
dunno if anyone gives a shit but if you're bored like me atm you can stream pretty much all of the new movies on instaflixxer. Have been streaming with my brother for the last couple of days :)
@Ian Grayson yup, have been using instaflixxer for since november myself :D
This video fails to mention that capacitors in power supplies can contain charges that kill *even after being disconnected*. Until you've verified the capacitors are discharged, you should always treat PSUs like a loaded gun and exercise extreme caution. If you don't understand any of this, do not attempt this mod!
Thanks for the reminder! The video does mention that folks should be skilled/comfortable working with something like this before attempting.
This video isn't a safety video. There was no failure to mention anything. If you want to criticize, go check out an electrical safety video and have at anything you notice.
In this video, you were advised to be comfortable working on electronics. If you don't understand how capacitors work, you aren't comfortable working on electronics. In other words, you were warned, which constitutes successfully mentioning everything that needed to be mentioned.
I just finally did this the other day. It is very quiet now. I also added a mini voltmeter to measure the fan voltage.
You make take the pins out of the connector look easy. I always struggle and usually destroy the locking pins on several before I succeed.
Thanks for sharing. Key is to use a small sharp object to lift those little plastic tabs that hold the pins in. :)