Understood, sir. Another great lesson. I'll follow the procedure. The performances of those REV1 motors are exactly what I need. Silent, powerful, and efficient. Good design work.
looking forward to getting some of your Rev1 motors when they become available to us. I have 19 blue box that I'm getting ready to go through and do all your upgrades/maintenance that I've learned watching your vids. Eventually they will get decoders but first things first. Honestly, just getting the whole list of materials that you recommend has been a challenge lol. thanks for all the effort making these vids!
Good info, I have 2 motors that I will be installing in a couple of my units. Do you replace the old flywheels with new or reuse the old ones?The motors I have a 2mm shaft and my old athearn is 3mm. I should have bought flywheels but I was hoping I could adapt the old ones.
if you're planning to use flywheels at all, just keep the old ones. if you're doing DCC then don't use any flywheels and adjust the accel and decel settings to get exactly the right amount of coasting!
Another great video. I do have a question though what is your thoughts on Athearn Genesis motors I own a lot of them they seem to run really well, but I want an expert opinion.
oh yes - those motors. so we've been doing this thing with rebuilding 13 (now more than 20) locomotives. some of these are Genesis. the decoders have arrived and we should test them! somewhere in the junk pile are a bunch of Genesis motors. we haven't really put them though the test, but since they are pretty much the same as the newer Atlas motors it is my opinion that they are on the weak side. the Atlas and Bachmann motors that we've already tested over the last couple years have all been found to be low on torque and high on amps when under a load. I do believe that when we did Ferdinand and maus about 2 years ago, those motors were discarded in favor of a much better 24v motor. MY genesis SD70 is a super smooth running locomotive, so I can't say that they are bad, but at the same time I haven't put that motor to any extreme test so far.... that will change soon....
they will probably serve you well unless you are pulling trains up a helix or trains that are really heavy like the ones I make. in that case they are way under-pwered and will draw a lot of amps!
In watching this video, I noted that the second motor (aka Rev-1) did exceed 1 amp current draw during your pinch test. As we know, amperage draw is the most critical component in a motor. As we also know, it takes quite a bit of force to get the Rev-1 to exceed one amp. So my question to you is this, Have you determined how much resistance it takes by pinching or preferably how many properly weighted cars according to standards can be in a train before the motor reaches the one amp draw? This information would be very helpful to modelers using these motors and myself as well as we would have a very clear indication of when to add a second, third, or fourth locomotive to relieve the other of excess stress and other aspects .
when I stall the motor at 24v with a pliers it can briefly hit 1 amp and then it drops to .7. finger pinching is very hard since it burns my fingers even at lower voltage. one of the tests that I have done is pulling heavy trains and essentially it doesn't stall, it makes the wheels slip. the torque is very high and if the train is too heavy then the locomotive's weight is the limiting factor!
@@elite194 Yes, I agree. So based on your analysis, the weight of each loco will govern the pulling ratio. since the twenty four volt motor will in virtually every scenario 'NOT' stop spinning. Because of this factor, I'm attempting to identify the weakest link in the drivetrain that is most likely to break in the case of a complete lockup of it. At this point, I think we can both agree that the motor will not be it. This may be an instance where each modeler will have to make that determination based upon the many factors that exits. Thanks for your input.
I've gotten a lot of old locomotives at train shows where part of a universal joint was broken off. I think those joints are still the weakest link - or a drive shaft is missing or broken, esepecially the small ones!
Maybe I need to turn on notifications. All of the sudden they pop up and after I watch three in a row, it's like, I'm there live and in color. Like a Holideck.
you can use flywheels on your motors and some power packs have a switch for momentum which will make locomotives gradually come to a stop instead of just stopping!
the old gray motor has put in a lot of work over the years, but it does draw way too much power for DCC. we do have to take another run at improving the gray motor just to see if we can do it!
I'm gonna guess that you are just getting slammed with email right about now. Congrats! It's pretty cool to mfg a thing you really want and it turn out great.
A little bit, I'm going to the Hennepin Overland club store in a couple weeks, but today I'm at the train show where a couple of my favorite sellers are....
Learn some thing new every day on your videos . I had no clue they needed to be broke in .
Thanks !
they don't have to be, but you can get a performance boost of about 25% if you do!
@@elite194 The way I see it is every little bit helps thanks.
Understood, sir. Another great lesson. I'll follow the procedure. The performances of those REV1 motors are exactly what I need. Silent, powerful, and efficient. Good design work.
when attached to a frame with goop, they make almost no sound - only my workbench can amplify those vibrations into a sound!
looking forward to getting some of your Rev1 motors when they become available to us. I have 19 blue box that I'm getting ready to go through and do all your upgrades/maintenance that I've learned watching your vids. Eventually they will get decoders but first things first.
Honestly, just getting the whole list of materials that you recommend has been a challenge lol.
thanks for all the effort making these vids!
send me email from my ABOUT page on here
I would love to see you put out a bloopers reel!
like that time I looked away from an old motor and then it started on fire? that was a good one!
Good info, I have 2 motors that I will be installing in a couple of my units. Do you replace the old flywheels with new or reuse the old ones?The motors I have a 2mm shaft and my old athearn is 3mm.
I should have bought flywheels but I was hoping I could adapt the old ones.
if you're planning to use flywheels at all, just keep the old ones. if you're doing DCC then don't use any flywheels and adjust the accel and decel settings to get exactly the right amount of coasting!
I am using dcc. So how would I connect the motor shaft to the trucks and with what for a drive line.
1x4mm food grade silicone hose! thats all you need and 10 bucks is alifetime supply!
Another great video. I do have a question though what is your thoughts on Athearn Genesis motors I own a lot of them they seem to run really well, but I want an expert opinion.
oh yes - those motors. so we've been doing this thing with rebuilding 13 (now more than 20) locomotives. some of these are Genesis. the decoders have arrived and we should test them! somewhere in the junk pile are a bunch of Genesis motors. we haven't really put them though the test, but since they are pretty much the same as the newer Atlas motors it is my opinion that they are on the weak side. the Atlas and Bachmann motors that we've already tested over the last couple years have all been found to be low on torque and high on amps when under a load. I do believe that when we did Ferdinand and maus about 2 years ago, those motors were discarded in favor of a much better 24v motor. MY genesis SD70 is a super smooth running locomotive, so I can't say that they are bad, but at the same time I haven't put that motor to any extreme test so far.... that will change soon....
@@elite194 I will be watching for that video
they will probably serve you well unless you are pulling trains up a helix or trains that are really heavy like the ones I make. in that case they are way under-pwered and will draw a lot of amps!
What exactly is the "warp drive" and how do you have it wired to the system.
I prefer to call it "power drive"
In watching this video, I noted that the second motor (aka Rev-1) did exceed 1 amp current draw during your pinch test. As we know, amperage draw is the most critical component in a motor. As we also know, it takes quite a bit of force to get the Rev-1 to exceed one amp. So my question to you is this, Have you determined how much resistance it takes by pinching or preferably how many properly weighted cars according to standards can be in a train before the motor reaches the one amp draw? This information would be very helpful to modelers using these motors and myself as well as we would have a very clear indication of when to add a second, third, or fourth locomotive to relieve the other of excess stress and other aspects .
when I stall the motor at 24v with a pliers it can briefly hit 1 amp and then it drops to .7. finger pinching is very hard since it burns my fingers even at lower voltage. one of the tests that I have done is pulling heavy trains and essentially it doesn't stall, it makes the wheels slip. the torque is very high and if the train is too heavy then the locomotive's weight is the limiting factor!
@@elite194 Yes, I agree. So based on your analysis, the weight of each loco will govern the pulling ratio. since the twenty four volt motor will in virtually every scenario 'NOT' stop spinning. Because of this factor, I'm attempting to identify the weakest link in the drivetrain that is most likely to break in the case of a complete lockup of it. At this point, I think we can both agree that the motor will not be it. This may be an instance where each modeler will have to make that determination based upon the many factors that exits. Thanks for your input.
I've gotten a lot of old locomotives at train shows where part of a universal joint was broken off. I think those joints are still the weakest link - or a drive shaft is missing or broken, esepecially the small ones!
Love your videos,,,keep them coming😊
there's going to be some more motor testing - certain myths and legends should really be tested!
Very interested in your rev1 motors how much are they and when will they be available? And are you going to sell them to the public?
yes - I'm going in person to 2 places 3rd week of May!
@@elite194 nice ! Are you purchasing these elsewhere and selling them under Rev1? or are making these from the ground up yourself.
@@FKHTrump2024 I designed them myself they're completely new and not used for anything other than this!
Maybe I need to turn on notifications. All of the sudden they pop up and after I watch three in a row, it's like, I'm there live and in color. Like a Holideck.
I knew you were!
where'd you get the legend Motors at rev1 Motors
I made the REV1 myself!! no motor would satisfy my, so I made the one that I really wanted!!
if your club has a store you can contact me from my ABOUT page
@@elite194 we don't have a store I like to buy those motors for my atlas blue box
@@FostoriaOhiomodelrailroadclub send me an email from my ABOUT page
Where can we purchase those REV1 Motors???
I'm still working on that!
@@elite194 thanks
How can I make my engines roll to a stop when power is turned down to let it go on its own free wheelin DC
you can use flywheels on your motors and some power packs have a switch for momentum which will make locomotives gradually come to a stop instead of just stopping!
Did you just drop, nay, THROW one of my Motors!! 😂
it's a bench tester now!
I'm sorry, there will be a delay in further video. He has first-degree burns on his fingers.
yes and it keeps happening
😂 perfect
Awesome, thanks
no problem!
How do I get these Rev1 motors?
send me an email from my ABOUT page
@@elite194 I don’t see an email address in the page you mentioned.
@@bowlerguy219 there is a button to hit that then shows my direct email!!
After watching both of the motor videos, I will be definitely removing the stock athearn gray motor and be installing one of your rev 1motors.
the old gray motor has put in a lot of work over the years, but it does draw way too much power for DCC. we do have to take another run at improving the gray motor just to see if we can do it!
I'm gonna guess that you are just getting slammed with email right about now. Congrats! It's pretty cool to mfg a thing you really want and it turn out great.
A little bit, I'm going to the Hennepin Overland club store in a couple weeks, but today I'm at the train show where a couple of my favorite sellers are....