Great tutorial, I have followed your instructions & have finally completed my control panel. Could not have attempted the job without such good detail, Thanks again, Regards, David
Hi Luke, you make it look so simple. When I'm ready to wire my set up I will most definitely be following your lead on this. Once again, to the master of all thing modelling, thanks, Rick Bulldog
Best explanation I've seen on anything on TH-cam. Clear, concise and no verbal diarrhea. Bit flummaxed by the last part about the final wiring but I'll watch again (and again). Great stuff.
Paul Alderson lol, I just replied to a comment from you on another video telling you to check out this video! I'm glad like this video. Thanks for the great feedback.Cheers Luke.
GREAT - you just saved me a pile of cash - was thinking I needed to buy a batch of about a dozen PL-15 accessory switches to clip on my Peco PL-10 switch machines but the sole purpose was to power LED's on my control panel. This is so much simpler. I trust that it does not matter if the switch machine is a solenoid snap one like the Peco PL-10 instead of a slow motion machine. Very well done.
Great video I am new to soldering so watched a few TH-cam videos but your blue tack tip brilliant makes it so much easier than the small clamp I bought.
Luke, thank you I came across your video today 23.10.2017. I found it informative it has come at the time when i am putting together a mimic box. Excellent, I would not have thought of using a large resistor for the led.
Luke, you're an absolute legend - this is exactly the tutorial I needed for the control panel I hope to make. Thanks for explaining it so clearly, it really helped.
Amazing Video! Thank you!!! I'm new to model railroading. I've always wanted to since my Dad had a huge layout and worked at SP. But the wiring always scared me and so I didn't do it. Your videos really take the fear out of it~! I adore modeling of all kinds planes, cars, houses, cycles, boats.... The speed of the demonstration and the calm, easy manner that you teach is really great! I like the very specific what you need placed on the screen long enough to read it and write it down! I also like the this is why you don't do it part with the resistors.. because little blue things all look the same! LOL. Using a cell phone charger was a great idea! You can pick those up at any thrift store or good will for cheap!
+Anna Noe Thanks for the fantastic comment Anna, I'm glad you found it enjoyable to watch. The great thing about model railroading is it caters to all modelers of any skill level, right through from beginners to experts. Good luck with your model railroad. Cheers Luke.
Richard Redcastle lol, for ages I was just trying to wedge stuff against other things and it would always move right when I didn't want it to, when I did eventually work out that blue tack does a fantastic job of holding things I thought to myself "Why didn't I think of this ages ago!". Thanks for the great feedback Richard.
Very nicely done. This is something I will be undertaking in the not too distant future. I will however, be changing the wire connection set up to have male connectors on the power in side of the switch assembly and insulated female connectors on the out put to the switch machines: A, to prevent confusion between in and out B, To follow the same wiring protocols for my Christmas light set ups and 240 volt power (like extension leads they have male and female for a reason) and C because my OCD says so. Oh I also love the Blue tack solution for holding "whatever" to be soldered - brilliant idea.
+richies quest Cool, that's really good to know. I'm glad people are able to pick up and learn some info from my videos. Thanks for the great feedback and comment. Cheers Luke
Luke, GREAT! tutorial. I am doing this part of my layout right now and the only difference is, I'm using two color LED's (red / green). I've placed them so the the green side is for straight thru and the red side is the diverging route. One lead (red) gets a 470 Ohm resistor, other (green) side gets 3K resistor, because the green, by far, out shined the red. This configuration "balances" out the LED brightness. I know this is more resistors than your common cathode method but resistors are cheap . . . I have these tied to a small circuit board that has a logic gate chip (NAND gate) to "hold" the LED on since i don't use switch machine that can withstand a constant voltage to be applied, just a quick "pulse" to activate the solenoid. Operation is simple with a DPDT momentary switch. A quick touch of the switch throws my turnout and switches the LED color to the corresponding color. I'm running DC only . . . Also, glad to know I'm not the only one still using Paint for graphic work.
excellent how to video Luke. great explanation of why resistors are important and how to change the light output with a change in resistance. keep them coming!
I very much like this way of making a panel. I think that I will do the same from now on and I am in the first stages of a new layout. In the past I would put the switches in the middle of the turnout diagram and then there was not enough space for the lED's... Thanks for doing this video.
I wish I had seen this when you first posted it; I already made my switch panel, but I am going to re-do it in this much tidier manner. A ton of information and how-to-do-it; most videos I have seen on making panels are 3 or 4 times as long, and not nearly so neat.
Hey Luke, your video was very good and helpful. You had stated that the long wire was the positive. After making up a few of them as the way you described in your video, my lights did not work as they were supposed to. I had bought a package of 300 3mm bulbs of various colors. After a few hours I figured out that that the positive of these bulbs was the short wire. Really not sure why.
Nice video Luke. Clearly presented and tidy wiring. Good to see other aussies inspiring modellers too. I'm designing my panel now and looking into laser cutting the face plate.
Very well done. Clear and to the point, just what I need to wire my control panel. I think the only thing I will do different is use a different color LED, maybe green for straight and red or yellow for divergent.
Bill Beverly That sounds like a very good idea Bill, I also considered doing that however I couldn't get my hands on bi colored LED's in time to do the video. Thanks for the great idea and comment. Cheers Luke.
Thanks a lot for this Great Vid, Luke. I've just discovered your channel and all your Vids are very instructives and very well done, as well. I wanna thank you very much for taking the time and sharing what you've learn about this great hobby. You English guys, are the Best in model railroding. What I like the most from you, is the fine way to work you all have in this hobby. Many cheers for you from Chile (South America), John.
jhonny1392 Thanks John, I'm very happy that you like my videos. I'm planning to continue to make many more videos as I gradually build my model train layout. It's good to hear great comments like your's, it keeps me motivated to continue making these videos.Thanks again, Cheers Luke
Luke Towan Well, fair is fair my friend. You've done a great job with this Panel, so you deserve great comments as well !., but the real value into all this is the fact that you've decided to share this expierence with the rest of the world and people like me, that are located at the other side of the world (literally) and where this hobby is a luxury, could have the chance to watch very good railway modeling like yours !. We really appreciate that !. So, please keep going.
Ah Luke, you've done it again! This time you've saved me a heap of wiring, well done. I've got a dozen tortoise switch machines to wire up and they're all aver the place like Brown's cows! Cheers Pete
AWESOME work dude I can't even imagine that it can be sooooooo easy....I m new in doing all diy stuff...but your video helped me so much that now I m building up a whole setup of transport system at my home with my friends...but needs a lot of investment😂😂but really I appreciate your work well done!!hats off!!
Thank you Rakshit for your positive words, really inspiring. Have fun with your friends and when you're done with your creation, you could share it here: www.bouldercreekrailroad.com/fan-artwork.html (this is my website and it has a section for fans to showcase their completed dioramas or creations.)
Phillip McCallum No worries Phillip, the real star is the blue-tack! Its amazing how simple yet effective it is for all sorts of things.... not just holding up "Star Wars" posters in my room! Although they had to go a long time ago and got replaced with canvas paintings of flowers and sunsets! Happy Wife, Happy Life ;-) Cheers. Luke.
Hello Luke, luv yer work. I do like the modularity of each switch, not something I do but perhaps should. I use cobalts on mu O gauge layout. I feed them via a 12 volt plugpack and use Jaycar standard dpdt standard toogles. I use one chang over contact on the cobalts to power the frog on my live frog points Im building a control panel and wanted to use leds Im thinking of using red green bi polar led and simply wiring them in parallel with the turnout power so they turn green when the road is set and red when Its not. Think this should do the trick. Your a very practical no nonsense keep it simple bloke and that is what I like.
I'm in the process of building a new layout so i'll be sure to post some new wiring videos when I get to that stage. Thanks for watching :) Cheers Luke
Scott Downey Thanks Scott, it's funny because I was doing this for ages with wires going everywhere and getting in the way before I stumbled across blue tack! Thanks for the great feedback.
Well done Luke. I was going to ask why you did not use one the switches on the Cobalt, but then you would have to run a whole lot more wires! Duh! I use cat 5 cable for all my Cobalt and Tortoise installs and over the quite long distances. Never had an issue. The Cobalts draw only tiny amounts of power! You may like to consider this. It's easier soldering the smaller wires to small lugs too.
Luke, I love this video on wiring a switch panel. May I ask how I can include a signal on my railroad to this scheme. Another words, when the switch is flipped I'd get a green or red signal lining the route on my layout. Thanks, Doug
This is a fantastic video thank you so much. Can i ask towards the end of the video when you said you connected the wires in series when you are connecting the wires are you soldering 2 wires onto one conecter to feed into the other for example 2 black wires connected to one female that plugs into a female then repeat for the others. Also is that a DC cobalt point motor and do you use the connectors at each end you didnt mention that on the video. Many thanks
Only just subscribed although I had seen some of your videos before. Great vid for the control panel, very clear and instructive and one I'll be following as I'm soon to be making one for my NEW layout. Also just seen your Grass applicator which I'll review as I had started to make one using the electrics from a fly swat but never got around to completing it. Yours look very tasty. Many thanks for your time and efforts. Definitely one channel to follow.
Mark King Thanks heaps Mark, I haven't tried the fly swatter technique for the static grass applicator but I have seen some people get really good results. I'm sure you'll be very impressed with the results you get. Thanks for subscribing ;-) Cheers Luke.
Hi Luke Great video very helpful I have wired the lights and the switches and everything works but when I connect to the switch machine the lights blow. Any suggestions. Kind regards Bob
I need a third wire for my servo set up. No toggles machine. Third wire tells servo to move. Where would I solder this wire to on the switch. Just don't work out for me. Having bit trouble. This vid has saved me so much time and so well explained
Jason Longman Hi Jason, you've got me at a blank there! I'm not familiar with servo motors at all. It's something I'll be looking at in the near future because I plan to use a servo to animate a fence for an industry I'm planning. I guess you could try some forums for answers. I've seen it done on a layout that used push button switches. Sorry I couldn't help you, but thanks for the question and great feedback. Cheers Luke.
Luke Towan. Great worked it out. Need a 3pole switch so u can add the arduino uno. Got it today and works perfect. Doing the programme was hard but eventually found a 9 servo 9 switch code on line. This way u need to run separate 5 v or 6v for servo. I have now completed half. Is anyone interested and think I should post it. But thanks to Luke for doing the part where I think is harder.
Hey there. Thanks for the video! I am wondering if this can be modified to accommodate a pushbutton? instead of the double pole double switch, use a momentary pushbutton to change the track direction and light the appropriate LED.
Hello Luke, thanks for your video very easy to follow, but a question please, I see you are connecting to the Tortoise point motor, how do you connect to Hornby point motors because they have three wires not two as in the Tortoise. Please forgive my ignorance, I am new to the model world.
Rob McCrain Cheers Rob, sometimes it can be difficult to understand wiring switches and LED's and I tried to make it as clear as I could. So I'm very happy to hear that it has come across clearly.
Hi Luke; just came across you video.easy to follow.The only question l use Peco point motors, from the controller via a CDU to operate the points, With the LEDs how due they stay working, as l under stand with the power on dose this not burn out the solenoid on the point motor
Hi Luke, Excellent video on wiring up point switch board, only thing is I don't think this would work on SEEP PM1 point motors. Not having much luck in my searches for circuitry so if you have any ideas they would be much appreciated. Best Rgds, Dave R
Excellent tutorial. Only questions I have are: 1. The type of resistor used. I’m having trouble finding what you specify. 2. How you connected all the components in sequence.
This looks simple !! Im running N scale. I will set the panel up as you described. Question: can i run another set of lights to the track as indicators also, with the transister or am i limited to just one set of lights for the panel
Luke, as usual a fantastic presentation, clear and concise instructions. May I ask 2 questions, can you tell me where you obtain the led and resistors, my local Jaycar cannot help and the 2 nd question, will a 2 amp power supply be too big. Thanks.
your videos are always well done. I can't ear the value of the resistor you use. If using a Tortoise switch machine, where would you solder the red wire ? on 1 or on 8 ?? thank you very much for your help.
I can't think off the top of my head but I think there is a diagram on the Tortoise instructions showing where the wires will need to go. I've been using 6.2K Ohm resistors on my control panel to dim the brightness of the LED's 😀
A lovely video, Luke, and a great outcome. I think I'm right in saying, however, that you can't use this approach with solenoid point motors, else they'll burn out?
Very nice video and great looking build. How can I make a similar panel using momentary contact toggle switches for my Atlas turnout motors and still have the LED's as in your panel ?? Thanks !
dalemaxx12 Thanks for the comment, I have gotten a few questions from people asking the same thing, let me think about it for a while. I have a bunch of PECO solenoid switches in my box of parts, I'll do some experimenting and try make you a video on how you might be able to wire it up. With LED's of course.
You are quite simply an amazing modeller and talented videographer and teacher, well done Luke. I've subscribed. One quick question - I'm tossing up which switch machine, I need 8, and I've heard of quite a bit of grief with the cobalts. The single peco unit I tried is ok but their switch is terrible. I'd like to support an Australian company, should I? Or just go Tortoise in your opinion?
+stoobieman Hey mate, it's a tough question! I too decided to buy Cobalt in support of an Australian company however... I have 6 Tortoise switch machines and 6 Cobalt switch machines, all the Tortoise ones work fine with no issues but from the 6 Cobalt switches 2 of them are a bit iffy. Maybe 7 out of 10 times they work fine and the other three times they seem to get stuck and need a tap or a slight push to get them going. The other 4 Cobalts work fine so I'm guessing it might be a quality control issue? I don't like the PECO machines, I much prefer the slow motion ones from Tortoise. Good luck, hope that helps with you decision. P.S. the Cobalts are smaller which is a plus if you have limited space or clearance, for example: a switch that is in a tight spot or very close to the edge of the layout and the fascia is in the way. So the Cobalt definitely has it's advantages in that respect. Cheers Luke
Fantastic video Luke, I wanted LED’s to show the throw of the point. 2 questions, what switch would you need to throw 2 points at the same time facing each other ? (My original use for a DPDT switch), is there such a switch, and, I use Gaugemaster PM1 point motors, does that change the wiring on the DPDT as the polarity is changed in the point motor ? Many thanks
Great video Luke. I'm rebuilding my layout after packing it away 30 years ago..I'd like to use the throw switches that i already had packed up, they are single pole momentary contact ( center pin live used with cdu for switching the turn outs ) Can the panel you've made be adapted and if so how ??? JC..
unfortunately the wiring I used will only work for the tortoise type switch machines, I've got a few of the solenoid switches like you but haven't tried wiring them just yet. 😃
I plan on doing something similar except using push button switches and bi-color (green and red LED's). Green for points in normal position and red when points are reversed.
I learned a different way coming off pin 1 to the led's from a tortoise switch machine. It uses the tortoise's 600 ohm internal resistance and they say not to use another resistor in series with this motor. They do run kinda bright but dim while the motor is in use. some like that so they can see the motor working then led comes back to full bright at rest. I like both ways and am having trouble deciding. Any thoughts on one way being more superior? Awesome video BTW love them all!!! Thanks.
I've attempted the LED hookup the same way, but wondered if the Tortoise will cease to work if/when one of the LED's go bad by hooking the LED's in line. Have you tried this hookup using a bad LED to see if the Tortoise still works? I realize what manufacturer's say the life of an LED is, however; power surges could knock them out I'm sure.
I have a question about doing this with Kato Unitrack turnouts. At least to my understanding, I would need momentary switches to control the motors, otherwise I would burn them out using the switches you used. I'm wondering how I would keep the LED's on, despite it being a momentary switch. I must also say you've have great work with a high level of craft.
germannscale good question, peco sell an accessory that connects to the base of their switch machines which enables you to connect all sorts of things like signals and LED's. Depending on which way the switch machine is positioned, the accessory connector will signal the appropriate LED. I'm not 100% sure what it's called but I'm sure if you google it, it will show up.
Thanks! I did see something recently about wiring the switch only using track power, so I'll have to do more research on that. I'll also have a look around for that Peco accessory.
Hi LukeThanks for the great videos, very informative I will definitely be giving the control panel a go. Can you tell me if it is possible to swap the phone charger plugs that you have in your video for USB ones. I have seen a duel output USB plug rated at 12v - 2 amp and 5v - 2.4 amp. I don't intend to control a point motor other than by wire in tube and the frogs will be controlled by a separate switch. Obviously I would change the resistors to suit and adapt the USB cable if all this is feasible. What do you think or is there an easier way to just control the LEDs and frog once I throw the switch.CheersMike
Interesting? I'm not sure but just brainstorming about it... I'd think that it would work? I'm just not sure what the USB cable looks like on the inside? Whether there is simply a positive and negative... But I'm sure you could make it work one way or another. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful. Cheers Luke
Love the video it has helped out a lot, but how do you keep your LED lights on when you change polarity to reverse from forward on the train? That is where I have been stumped. It works great going forward, but when you change direction, the LED's turn off.
+okichewy1972 Thanks mate, I don't have any issues with the lights going out when changing direction, I'm using DCC so I'm guessing you may be using DC? I'd have to look into it but my first thoughts are this setup may not be compatible with DC operation. A possible solution though would be to run separate BUS wires for the control panel and switches, if you run the control panel of the main track wires it might have the problem you're suggesting. Cheers Luke.
Great tutorial, I have followed your instructions & have finally completed my control panel.
Could not have attempted the job without such good detail,
Thanks again, Regards, David
Hi Luke, you make it look so simple. When I'm ready to wire my set up I will most definitely be following your lead on this. Once again, to the master of all thing modelling, thanks, Rick Bulldog
Best explanation I've seen on anything on TH-cam. Clear, concise and no verbal diarrhea. Bit flummaxed by the last part about the final wiring but I'll watch again (and again). Great stuff.
Paul Alderson lol, I just replied to a comment from you on another video telling you to check out this video! I'm glad like this video. Thanks for the great feedback.Cheers
Luke.
GREAT - you just saved me a pile of cash - was thinking I needed to buy a batch of about a dozen PL-15 accessory switches to clip on my Peco PL-10 switch machines but the sole purpose was to power LED's on my control panel. This is so much simpler. I trust that it does not matter if the switch machine is a solenoid snap one like the Peco PL-10 instead of a slow motion machine. Very well done.
Great video I am new to soldering so watched a few TH-cam videos but your blue tack tip brilliant makes it so much easier than the small clamp I bought.
Just planning a new layout and had all but given up on having a switch board until I found this tutorial. Thanks so much!
Most orderly wiring job EVER. Nicely done!
This was a very well done explanation of an easy way of making a local control panel. Thank you for putting it together.
Luke, thank you I came across your video today 23.10.2017. I found it informative it has come at the time when i am putting together a mimic box. Excellent, I would not have thought of using a large resistor for the led.
Absolutely well done-clearly explained-clearly spoken-clear view and great design
Thanks Richard Brisbane - Redland Bay
Thank you for sharing this helpful video - would never have been able to successfully do similar without it.
Slick instructional video clearly explained and demonstrated . Hats off - there is lot of rubbish ion the net in this space. Yours are well produced.
This is what I’m looking for. Explicating is very clear and it’s really a good job. Many thanks.
Luke, you're an absolute legend - this is exactly the tutorial I needed for the control panel I hope to make. Thanks for explaining it so clearly, it really helped.
+tjf4375 No worries mate, glad it was helpful. I'm about to rebuild another control panel but I'll be using the same method as this one.
Cheers
Luke
Amazing Video! Thank you!!! I'm new to model railroading. I've always wanted to since my Dad had a huge layout and worked at SP. But the wiring always scared me and so I didn't do it. Your videos really take the fear out of it~! I adore modeling of all kinds planes, cars, houses, cycles, boats.... The speed of the demonstration and the calm, easy manner that you teach is really great! I like the very specific what you need placed on the screen long enough to read it and write it down! I also like the this is why you don't do it part with the resistors.. because little blue things all look the same! LOL. Using a cell phone charger was a great idea! You can pick those up at any thrift store or good will for cheap!
+Anna Noe Thanks for the fantastic comment Anna, I'm glad you found it enjoyable to watch. The great thing about model railroading is it caters to all modelers of any skill level, right through from beginners to experts. Good luck with your model railroad.
Cheers
Luke.
Another great tutorial Luke. Using blue tack is a ''why didn't I think of that'' thing! Good explanation and demo of resistor usage for LED's. Cheers.
Richard Redcastle lol, for ages I was just trying to wedge stuff against other things and it would always move right when I didn't want it to, when I did eventually work out that blue tack does a fantastic job of holding things I thought to myself "Why didn't I think of this ages ago!". Thanks for the great feedback Richard.
Very nicely done. This is something I will be undertaking in the not too distant future. I will however, be changing the wire connection set up to have male connectors on the power in side of the switch assembly and insulated female connectors on the out put to the switch machines: A, to prevent confusion between in and out B, To follow the same wiring protocols for my Christmas light set ups and 240 volt power (like extension leads they have male and female for a reason) and C because my OCD says so. Oh I also love the Blue tack solution for holding "whatever" to be soldered - brilliant idea.
what a great tutorial thanks to people like you ive learnt more from the internet than i ever did at school.
+richies quest Cool, that's really good to know. I'm glad people are able to pick up and learn some info from my videos. Thanks for the great feedback and comment.
Cheers
Luke
Luke, GREAT! tutorial. I am doing this part of my layout right now and the only difference is, I'm using two color LED's (red / green). I've placed them so the the green side is for straight thru and the red side is the diverging route. One lead (red) gets a 470 Ohm resistor, other (green) side gets 3K resistor, because the green, by far, out shined the red. This configuration "balances" out the LED brightness. I know this is more resistors than your common cathode method but resistors are cheap . . . I have these tied to a small circuit board that has a logic gate chip (NAND gate) to "hold" the LED on since i don't use switch machine that can withstand a constant voltage to be applied, just a quick "pulse" to activate the solenoid. Operation is simple with a DPDT momentary switch. A quick touch of the switch throws my turnout and switches the LED color to the corresponding color. I'm running DC only . . . Also, glad to know I'm not the only one still using Paint for graphic work.
Brilliant...EXACTLY what I was looking for, simple and logical.
excellent how to video Luke. great explanation of why resistors are important and how to change the light output with a change in resistance. keep them coming!
+Christopher Bryant Thanks mate, don't worry I've got plenty more videos in the works!
Cheers
Luke.
I very much like this way of making a panel. I think that I will do the same from now on and I am in the first stages of a new layout. In the past I would put the switches in the middle of the turnout diagram and then there was not enough space for the lED's... Thanks for doing this video.
Glad to have helped you David 😊
I wish I had seen this when you first posted it; I already made my switch panel, but I am going to re-do it in this much tidier manner. A ton of information and how-to-do-it; most videos I have seen on making panels are 3 or 4 times as long, and not nearly so neat.
Hi Luke, always enjoy your videos. They are easy to follow and very informative. Thanks
No worries mate, glad you enjoy them
Hey Luke, your video was very good and helpful. You had stated that the long wire was the positive. After making up a few of them as the way you described in your video, my lights did not work as they were supposed to. I had bought a package of 300 3mm bulbs of various colors. After a few hours I figured out that that the positive of these bulbs was the short wire. Really not sure why.
Nice video Luke. Clearly presented and tidy wiring. Good to see other aussies inspiring modellers too. I'm designing my panel now and looking into laser cutting the face plate.
Ferguson Bros Rail No worries mate, I checked out your channel as well. Pretty well done!
Thanks for the great comment.
Cheers
Luke
VERY good tutorial Luke. Nicely explained with "jargon". Well done!
This is an EXCELLENT tutorial in both content and presentation.
wow thanks for the fantastic compliment :)
Cheers
Luke
Very nice work, patience of a saint and great attention to detail. I Cant stop watching!
+eric coots thanks Eric, glad you enjoy the videos
Cheers
Luke
Very well done. Clear and to the point, just what I need to wire my control panel. I think the only thing I will do different is use a different color LED, maybe green for straight and red or yellow for divergent.
Bill Beverly That sounds like a very good idea Bill, I also considered doing that however I couldn't get my hands on bi colored LED's in time to do the video. Thanks for the great idea and comment.
Cheers
Luke.
This is an EXCELLENT tutorial in both content and presentation. Many thanks.
+Mark Loyd No worries Mark, thanks for watching.
Cheers
Luke
Like the blue tack idea. I'll be trying that, thanks
Thanks a lot for this Great Vid, Luke. I've just discovered your channel and all your Vids are very instructives and very well done, as well.
I wanna thank you very much for taking the time and sharing what you've learn about this great hobby.
You English guys, are the Best in model railroding. What I like the most from you, is the fine way to work you all have in this hobby.
Many cheers for you from Chile (South America), John.
jhonny1392 Thanks John, I'm very happy that you like my videos. I'm planning to continue to make many more videos as I gradually build my model train layout. It's good to hear great comments like your's, it keeps me motivated to continue making these videos.Thanks again, Cheers Luke
Luke Towan Well, fair is fair my friend. You've done a great job with this Panel, so you deserve great comments as well !., but the real value into all this is the fact that you've decided to share this expierence with the rest of the world and people like me, that are located at the other side of the world (literally) and where this hobby is a luxury, could have the chance to watch very good railway modeling like yours !.
We really appreciate that !. So, please keep going.
Ah Luke, you've done it again! This time you've saved me a heap of wiring, well done. I've got a dozen tortoise switch machines to wire up and they're all aver the place like Brown's cows!
Cheers
Pete
AWESOME work dude I can't even imagine that it can be sooooooo easy....I m new in doing all diy stuff...but your video helped me so much that now I m building up a whole setup of transport system at my home with my friends...but needs a lot of investment😂😂but really I appreciate your work well done!!hats off!!
Thank you Rakshit for your positive words, really inspiring. Have fun with your friends and when you're done with your creation, you could share it here: www.bouldercreekrailroad.com/fan-artwork.html (this is my website and it has a section for fans to showcase their completed dioramas or creations.)
Luke Towan surely bro..!!thanks for your valuable suggestion..good luck..cheers
You explained the wiring well now i understand how it works thank you
Phillip McCallum No worries Phillip, the real star is the blue-tack! Its amazing how simple yet effective it is for all sorts of things.... not just holding up "Star Wars" posters in my room! Although they had to go a long time ago and got replaced with canvas paintings of flowers and sunsets! Happy Wife, Happy Life ;-) Cheers. Luke.
Your panel looks very neat. Please take this as a compliment as I am going to copy your idea. Many thanksBarry. Devon
+OBowner No worries mate, I put the video up for people to use the ideas so it's a compliment for sure :)
Cheers
Luke
Hello Luke, luv yer work.
I do like the modularity of each switch, not something I do but perhaps should.
I use cobalts on mu O gauge layout.
I feed them via a 12 volt plugpack and use Jaycar standard dpdt standard toogles.
I use one chang over contact on the cobalts to power the frog on my live frog points
Im building a control panel and wanted to use leds
Im thinking of using red green bi polar led and simply wiring them in parallel with the turnout power so they turn green when the road is set and red when Its not.
Think this should do the trick.
Your a very practical no nonsense keep it simple bloke and that is what I like.
Very professional presentation (as ever), easy to follow and understand.
You are very talented individual. It pisses me off. Lol. Love your scenery and Dioramas too. 👍🏻🇺🇸
Really well done how-to and a great looking control panel! Nice work and thanks for sharing!
ChessieFan2 Thanks for the comment, its simple but effective and most of all pretty easy to make. I appreciate the positive feedback, cheers.
Very neat job. I will be watching this a lot when I wire my layout. Could you possibly show how you wire underside of a layout neatly?
I'm in the process of building a new layout so i'll be sure to post some new wiring videos when I get to that stage.
Thanks for watching :)
Cheers
Luke
Great how to. Using blue tack is a great idea. I will use that since my wires are always in the way.
Scott Downey Thanks Scott, it's funny because I was doing this for ages with wires going everywhere and getting in the way before I stumbled across blue tack! Thanks for the great feedback.
Thanks Luke, some real good ideas, got some of "Pen" soldering flux. Good investment. Keep up the good work
Well done Luke. I was going to ask why you did not use one the switches on the Cobalt, but then you would have to run a whole lot more wires! Duh!
I use cat 5 cable for all my Cobalt and Tortoise installs and over the quite long distances. Never had an issue. The Cobalts draw only tiny amounts of power! You may like to consider this. It's easier soldering the smaller wires to small lugs too.
Excellent work!! Following this!!
Luke, I love this video on wiring a switch panel. May I ask how I can include a signal on my railroad to this scheme. Another words, when the switch is flipped I'd get a green or red signal lining the route on my layout. Thanks, Doug
This is a fantastic video thank you so much. Can i ask towards the end of the video when you said you connected the wires in series when you are connecting the wires are you soldering 2 wires onto one conecter to feed into the other for example 2 black wires connected to one female that plugs into a female then repeat for the others.
Also is that a DC cobalt point motor and do you use the connectors at each end you didnt mention that on the video.
Many thanks
Only just subscribed although I had seen some of your videos before.
Great vid for the control panel, very clear and instructive and one I'll be following as I'm soon to be making one for my NEW layout.
Also just seen your Grass applicator which I'll review as I had started to make one using the electrics from a fly swat but never got around to completing it. Yours look very tasty.
Many thanks for your time and efforts.
Definitely one channel to follow.
Mark King Thanks heaps Mark, I haven't tried the fly swatter technique for the static grass applicator but I have seen some people get really good results. I'm sure you'll be very impressed with the results you get.
Thanks for subscribing ;-)
Cheers
Luke.
Thank you, excellent video
Hi Luke
Great video very helpful
I have wired the lights and the switches and everything works but when I connect to the switch machine the lights blow.
Any suggestions.
Kind regards Bob
Thanks Luke, This Will Come in Handy for my Layout with isolating Regions
Jonte Te Moni thanks Jonte, I'm glad the video was helpful.
Cheers
Luke.
Excellent Luke thanks for your great videos.
No worries Carl, thanks for watching :)
Absolutely excellent instructional video.
brilliant explanation ! - also very clear video - thanks !
I need a third wire for my servo set up. No toggles machine. Third wire tells servo to move. Where would I solder this wire to on the switch. Just don't work out for me. Having bit trouble. This vid has saved me so much time and so well explained
Jason Longman Hi Jason, you've got me at a blank there! I'm not familiar with servo motors at all. It's something I'll be looking at in the near future because I plan to use a servo to animate a fence for an industry I'm planning. I guess you could try some forums for answers. I've seen it done on a layout that used push button switches.
Sorry I couldn't help you, but thanks for the question and great feedback.
Cheers
Luke.
Luke Towan. Great worked it out. Need a 3pole switch so u can add the arduino uno. Got it today and works perfect. Doing the programme was hard but eventually found a 9 servo 9 switch code on line. This way u need to run separate 5 v or 6v for servo. I have now completed half. Is anyone interested and think I should post it. But thanks to Luke for doing the part where I think is harder.
Hey there. Thanks for the video! I am wondering if this can be modified to accommodate a pushbutton? instead of the double pole double switch, use a momentary pushbutton to change the track direction and light the appropriate LED.
Hello Luke, thanks for your video very easy to follow, but a question please, I see you are connecting to the Tortoise point motor, how do you connect to Hornby point motors because they have three wires not two as in the Tortoise. Please forgive my ignorance, I am new to the model world.
Very useful - thank you.
Gold! Thank you :)
Well done instructional. Your system results in a neat and clear to understand system.
Rob McCrain Cheers Rob, sometimes it can be difficult to understand wiring switches and LED's and I tried to make it as clear as I could. So I'm very happy to hear that it has come across clearly.
Hi Luke; just came across you video.easy to follow.The only question l use Peco point motors, from the controller via a CDU to operate the points, With the LEDs how due they stay working, as l under stand with the power on dose this not burn out the solenoid on the point motor
Yes this method will only work with slow motion switch machines, it won't work with PECO solenoid switches, it will burn out the point motor.
Well impressed. Will be very useful for my layout which is in construction.
Regards
Robert
Ocean City Thanks Robert, I'm glad you found the video useful.
Cheers
Luke.
Muy buen video, muchas gracias.🐕🐕✌️❌️
Great Video tutorial
Hi Luke,
Excellent video on wiring up point switch board, only thing is I don't think this would work on SEEP PM1 point motors. Not having much luck in my searches for circuitry so if you have any ideas they would be much appreciated.
Best Rgds,
Dave R
Thanks Luke, great advice and help
Hey Luke, Brilliant video as always.
Thanks Phil, glad you liked it
Cheers
Luke
Great tutorial, really informative and easy to follow. You have inspired me to greater things!
Colin Bailey Thanks Colin, even if I only inspire one person then it's worth it ;-) Thanks for the great comment.
Cheers, Luke.
Excellent tutorial. Only questions I have are:
1. The type of resistor used. I’m having trouble finding what you specify.
2. How you connected all the components in sequence.
The resistor used here is a 6K2, or 6,200 Ohm resistor, 0,25 Watts.
Very nice video tutorial 🚂
Great how to video.
william mosher Hi William, thanks for the positive feedback.
This looks simple !! Im running N scale. I will set the panel up as you described. Question: can i run another set of lights to the track as indicators also, with the transister or am i limited to just one set of lights for the panel
Brilliant thanks for sharing I will be doing this in the near future, much appreciated. Steve
MrSteve666999 G'day Steve, I glad the video has helped. Thanks for the positive feedback.
No worries mate
nice! so simple i can followbwhat is happening, i prefer toggles on the track diagram less confusion
Excellent video, good job
conrail079 thanks mate, glad you enjoyed the video.
cheers
Luke
Hi Mate
Great video. Will this set up work with Cobalt iP Digital Motors ?
Cheers
That's really slick!!
Thanks for posting
+William Arseneau No worries mate, glad you liked it.
Cheers
Luke
Luke, as usual a fantastic presentation, clear and concise instructions. May I ask 2 questions, can you tell me where you obtain the led and resistors, my local Jaycar cannot help and the 2 nd question, will a 2 amp power supply be too big. Thanks.
Very nice video ....
your videos are always well done. I can't ear the value of the resistor you use. If using a Tortoise switch machine, where would you solder the red wire ? on 1 or on 8 ?? thank you very much for your help.
I can't think off the top of my head but I think there is a diagram on the Tortoise instructions showing where the wires will need to go. I've been using 6.2K Ohm resistors on my control panel to dim the brightness of the LED's 😀
May I presume this will not work with peco solenoid motors? Perhaps you may suggest as to what switch/wiring would be required for that scenario??
A lovely video, Luke, and a great outcome. I think I'm right in saying, however, that you can't use this approach with solenoid point motors, else they'll burn out?
true 😀
I miss the days of these older videos.
Very nice video and great looking build. How can I make a similar panel using momentary contact toggle switches for my Atlas turnout motors and still have the LED's as in your panel ?? Thanks !
dalemaxx12 Thanks for the comment, I have gotten a few questions from people asking the same thing, let me think about it for a while. I have a bunch of PECO solenoid switches in my box of parts, I'll do some experimenting and try make you a video on how you might be able to wire it up. With LED's of course.
Luke Towan
Thank you very much for trying to work it out for me!!
Just watched you video, great job. Clear explanation thank youRichard Brisbane Aus
+Richard “on the move” Wolters Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed the video
Cheers
Luke
Brilliant Luke Thank you very much !
I Rauti I Thanks mate, I very appreciative of the great feedback.
Hi Luke great how to liked and subscribed cheers Kevin
kevintregunna Cheers Kevin, thanks for the positive feedback and sub. I've got plenty more videos to come :)Luke
Great share! How many volts run through your bus lines? And, how many volts travel up your feeders to the track? Thanks!
You are quite simply an amazing modeller and talented videographer and teacher, well done Luke. I've subscribed. One quick question - I'm tossing up which switch machine, I need 8, and I've heard of quite a bit of grief with the cobalts. The single peco unit I tried is ok but their switch is terrible. I'd like to support an Australian company, should I? Or just go Tortoise in your opinion?
+stoobieman Hey mate, it's a tough question! I too decided to buy Cobalt in support of an Australian company however... I have 6 Tortoise switch machines and 6 Cobalt switch machines, all the Tortoise ones work fine with no issues but from the 6 Cobalt switches 2 of them are a bit iffy. Maybe 7 out of 10 times they work fine and the other three times they seem to get stuck and need a tap or a slight push to get them going. The other 4 Cobalts work fine so I'm guessing it might be a quality control issue?
I don't like the PECO machines, I much prefer the slow motion ones from Tortoise. Good luck, hope that helps with you decision.
P.S. the Cobalts are smaller which is a plus if you have limited space or clearance, for example: a switch that is in a tight spot or very close to the edge of the layout and the fascia is in the way. So the Cobalt definitely has it's advantages in that respect.
Cheers
Luke
Fantastic video Luke, I wanted LED’s to show the throw of the point. 2 questions, what switch would you need to throw 2 points at the same time facing each other ? (My original use for a DPDT switch), is there such a switch, and, I use Gaugemaster PM1 point motors, does that change the wiring on the DPDT as the polarity is changed in the point motor ? Many thanks
Great video Luke. I'm rebuilding my layout after packing it away 30 years ago..I'd like to use the throw switches that i already had packed up, they are single pole momentary contact ( center pin live used with cdu for switching the turn outs ) Can the panel you've made be adapted and if so how ??? JC..
unfortunately the wiring I used will only work for the tortoise type switch machines, I've got a few of the solenoid switches like you but haven't tried wiring them just yet. 😃
Thanks for the video, how would you use your easy circuit with a servo motor?
I plan on doing something similar except using push button switches and bi-color (green and red LED's). Green for points in normal position and red when points are reversed.
I learned a different way coming off pin 1 to the led's from a tortoise switch machine. It uses the tortoise's 600 ohm internal resistance and they say not to use another resistor in series with this motor. They do run kinda bright but dim while the motor is in use. some like that so they can see the motor working then led comes back to full bright at rest. I like both ways and am having trouble deciding. Any thoughts on one way being more superior? Awesome video BTW love them all!!! Thanks.
I've attempted the LED hookup the same way, but wondered if the Tortoise will cease to work if/when one of the LED's go bad by hooking the LED's in line. Have you tried this hookup using a bad LED to see if the Tortoise still works? I realize what manufacturer's say the life of an LED is, however; power surges could knock them out I'm sure.
Very nece. Looks like a good project for me. Thanks
I have a question about doing this with Kato Unitrack turnouts. At least to my understanding, I would need momentary switches to control the motors, otherwise I would burn them out using the switches you used. I'm wondering how I would keep the LED's on, despite it being a momentary switch. I must also say you've have great work with a high level of craft.
germannscale good question, peco sell an accessory that connects to the base of their switch machines which enables you to connect all sorts of things like signals and LED's. Depending on which way the switch machine is positioned, the accessory connector will signal the appropriate LED. I'm not 100% sure what it's called but I'm sure if you google it, it will show up.
Thanks! I did see something recently about wiring the switch only using track power, so I'll have to do more research on that. I'll also have a look around for that Peco accessory.
Great job... thanks for sharing and keep up the great work.. Lance
Hi LukeThanks for the great videos, very informative I will definitely be giving the control panel a go. Can you tell me if it is possible to swap the phone charger plugs that you have in your video for USB ones. I have seen a duel output USB plug rated at 12v - 2 amp and 5v - 2.4 amp. I don't intend to control a point motor other than by wire in tube and the frogs will be controlled by a separate switch. Obviously I would change the resistors to suit and adapt the USB cable if all this is feasible. What do you think or is there an easier way to just control the LEDs and frog once I throw the switch.CheersMike
Interesting? I'm not sure but just brainstorming about it... I'd think that it would work? I'm just not sure what the USB cable looks like on the inside? Whether there is simply a positive and negative... But I'm sure you could make it work one way or another.
Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
Cheers
Luke
Love the video it has helped out a lot, but how do you keep your LED lights on when you change polarity to reverse from forward on the train? That is where I have been stumped. It works great going forward, but when you change direction, the LED's turn off.
+okichewy1972 Thanks mate, I don't have any issues with the lights going out when changing direction, I'm using DCC so I'm guessing you may be using DC? I'd have to look into it but my first thoughts are this setup may not be compatible with DC operation. A possible solution though would be to run separate BUS wires for the control panel and switches, if you run the control panel of the main track wires it might have the problem you're suggesting.
Cheers
Luke.