Very informative. May sound a bit obvious, but one tip for newer painters is to mind your overlaps. I also like to stagger them between coats when possible, but the shape of the surfaces ultimately dictate that. Reason for staggering the overlaps is so I'm not always starting/stopping at the same place with every coat, since that's often where you'll end up with runs. An even more basic tip would be to start/stop off the surface whenever possible, but as you gain more experience, you can bend all these rules to fit your form and situation. Thanks again for the vid.
I completely agree with all of your suggestions. 90% of my runs went away when I started to let the clear flash off properly between coats. With my clear it’s sometimes as long as 10-15 minutes between coats.
I get a run or two a week when it's cooler but I'm doing 20+ cars and don't have time to worry about it. As long as I can get them out I'm OK with it 😂
What helped me with runs was firstly on my first coat I’m not really 100 percent worried about little dry spots here and there I’m just focused on putting an even thin coat on the panels . Then I let it flash off fully , make sure it is ready I want it to slightly feel like the back side of a peice of tape but not as sticky where I could drag my finger across it somewhat. Then i back up a little bit depending on what kinda of finish I want and put on my final coat the way I want it to look . If I see there is some crazy character lines or letters stamped in somewhere on the panels like those super duty bedsides or tailgates or the trd pro words in the beds , I won’t hesitate to back up and speed up around those areas and leave them a touch dry but still wet and closed . I would rather sand a little texture out with some 2000 and 3000 and buff then cut a run out because even though most of the time you get them out fully sometimes there a slight wave where you cut it , or even worse it pulls your metallics and you can never get them out 100 percent . A run is a pretty good chance of a repaint at the shop I work at , buffing a little texture out of a panel that is not a repaint and is a lot less time wasted and because you have texture to work with from the beginning where you sprayed a touch dry you can sand the texture of the clear enough to match the texture of the rest of the panel you painted , a run the area you blocked , cut out with a blade , etc will be dead flat and can be noticed .Hope my advice helped . I still get runs from time to time we all do as professionals but over the years I’ve gotten better about it
Gunny dialing in from Perth. DIY spraying in my dble garage at home (use it as a temporary booth). Own 3 x W126 V8 Mercs and currently prepping the 89 560SEL AMG for a full respray (same colour 904 dark blue) in late Dec or early Jan. I recently bought one of those "Fanmaster Propane industrial heaters" to use to preheat heat the booth/car before commencing any spraying (after seeing Howard Astill using one in his home booth re prep for Boss XC show car) I own 5 x LVLP - R500/A610/NVE guns plus HVLP Devilbiss Pro-lite in all the caps +Sagola 4600 Extr T/Truck with all the caps, (+ other dedicated primer guns) so good range to choose from when spraying primer, base & clear for a DIY chasing a more glass finish and not factory finish Recently had to do a "full respray" on my sons 05 tradie high roof Ford Transit Van on the front driveway open air as too tall for the garage and picked a still/warm morning and it actually came out damn good (lesson - no bugs in the morning but they do come out in the arvo so never spray after 11am). I have 300 ltrs of compressed air with proper 3 stage filtration so plenty of volume/CFM to work with to get clean air that handles the HVLP with ease which is half the battle in a good paint job especially for a full repaint. My son wants his 2 x Toyota 4wd fully repainted ( 80 series + Hilux) and my 040 black 88 W126 V8 AMG coupe iam doing a widebody conversion so that requires a full respray as well. Learn't a lot from watching all your videos over the years as i am self taught DIY in all body work, panel & prep & spraying 2 pack, so a big thank you for all the effort you put into your vids for your viewers like me 👍
brother! I just want to thank you for all your videos. I've been painting for years. when we didn't have translation in the videos. I'm in Brazil, and I learned a lot just through the images. We currently have translation. Thank you very much! big hug. savin
I know this would be a ton of work, but it would be very cool if you could do a series demonstrating the principles you have discussed here. Somewhat like the orange peel video you made some time ago. Have a video that shows just the difference caused by paint and panel temperature from say 15 to 30 (using C for you outside America folks). Show the difference caused by thinner ratio. Show the difference caused by fluid setting. Show the difference caused by different pressures. Obviously, a lot of videos and a lot of work, but just an idea should get bored and need some new video ideas.
Great Video Definitely right about the supernova in the wrong hands will cause problems. I stay with a Medium all years around myself seems to me it lays down better. You’re giving it that time to gas between coats. I found what works for me as far as clear goes. First coat coverage no dry spots around 22 pounds. 2nd coat turn the pressure up 28 pounds a little closer. 3rd coat step it up a few more a little closer. I found the pressure and the distance is the game changer if you want it lay flat. Long as you don’t hammer it on your first coat your not gonna gets runs sags ect ect. Most important gotta give it enough time between coats. Yea I know three coats is over kill. I do it for a couple reasons one if you decide to cut the whole job got material to work with. Also nips plus to me just looks better. Got a small shop keep the Customers satisfied.
Interesting, I hadn't thought until you'd mentioned it how warming clear would make it flow more. You'd think "well, I want it to kick faster.." and I guess it will but it will feel "thinner" before it actually does. I always love your words of wisdom, Gunny. Season's Greetings brother!
Thanks for the tips. Lots of things to look out for and try. Sounds counter intuitive increasing the pressure to put less material on, thats probably where ppl go wrong.
Good you did this. Bin a while for me I did some serious painting. Started on my self in march in restoring aircooled VW’s. And painting is Alaina part of it. Thanks for refreshing ! Let’s paint some shit🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
The best thing we ever bought was the Walcom Thermodry TD3. Winter and summer then become one. No messing around changing thinner amounts for colder months. This maintains same temperatures all year round. It’s honestly a game changer. Yes it costs £3600 + vat but I wouldn’t work without one now.
Also don’t stop your pass directly on a panel edge. I always make sure my entire fan pattern is 6-12” past the edge of the panel before I trigger off and start the next pass.
I've always wondered about this one as it's very highly ignored, the inverse relationship between pressure and fluid flow. The finger on the water hose is the simplest explanation and is where most amateurs make mistakes in being afraid to open up the gun, which results in even more runs. I've become more comfortable spraying at a little higher pressure than lower... runs have been less, and the finish is flatter
yeah for sure you covered it well , I think you sort of mentioned it but knowing your gun and having a bit of practise with it so you get use to the speed you apply the paint with , some guns apply the paint faster than others but I suppose that's so tangible to points of paint thickness and thinning ratios you talked about
Some good advice there Gunny which would have been a huge help to me a few years ago when I was learning and suffering with runs and doing most of what is on your list totally wrong🤦♂ I don't get many runs these days but it still happens now and again, it's the old saying that if you don't get runs then you aren't trying hard enough🤭 I found the Sata 1.3CC the hardest gun I've had to get used to as I kept getting dry spots in my clear but it was a simple case of changing my painting style by spraying closer and tightening my overlap, now I'm loving this gun👌👍John UK
That's what I do on my plastic model cars is I use a .5mm tip airbrush I use automotive paint and my clear I use John Kosmoski founder of House Of Kolor mixing ratio of 4:1:1 for my clears
Hey gunny I've been watching you for a few years and learn to paint by watching your shows I had a question and was hoping you can help me out. I spray in an open shop and a high humidity high temperature environment. Every time I spray clear I make sure the coats are dry between coats or if had the proper flash times and every single time I spray clear I get this semi-gloss not wet look like it looked when I sprayed it out of the gun it always looks amazing when I walk away but when I come back it's no longer wet looking but more of a semi-gloss
I need a one gun for basecoat clearcoat for basic home use. I have a 15cfm air supply and 7 mtr hose with high flow fittings. Currently using an iwats w400 1.3 and its slow as hell. And very hard to lay wet coats without 3 or 4 slow passes I am not painting entire cars. Just a panel or 2 and touch up and maybe a bonnet or 2.
The single biggest factor in eleminating runs IMO is getting a good CLOSED COAT down for that first coat. It is the foundation that grabs that second WET COAT and holds it in place. Regardless of brands used or 1.5 or two coat method, I have found that a thin, even coat with no dry spots which is what a closed coat is, is the key!
Yeah it's definitely not absurd. Now there are some clears that behave differently, but most clears like a nice wet first coat to stick to, that way you're not fighting the half first coat to get a nice wet finish, leading to overloading and runs.
Where is your shop located. Mostly un trained rip offs here in sydney. Dirty booths.. mixed products.. cheap cheap cheap garbage. I can travel to Vic for a quote Steve
I'm using Final Systems Ultimate 2K HS Clearcoat, the data says to add 5% reducer ...but even with 10% is seems still fairly thick..., would be safe to go higher? Could you make a video about the viscosity especially with the clear coat please. When I spray clear I seen to end up with alot of tiny raised spot .... could it be that still to thick? Thank you for your videos , very helpful.
the clear coats i use just have a hardner im not sure what a guy can use to thin it a little bit I use Automotive Art 82-42 with medium hardner or Bessa Bess glass 200- 250 a med solids im used to using Bessa clear using my FLG5 :)
To be honest I can't really remember the last time I got a sage but peel in a whole other story and it does my head in because i know there's a shitload of chopping to be done
Hey Gunny - have you got a recommendation for a Coalescer Filter for an air fed mask (noticed you're filtering your air at home) - I'm only spraying occasionally but am considering getting an air fed mask. Currently considering the Iwata 3 stage ($900) but I can get a 2 stage for $500 - Don't want to spend a fortune but also want something that will actually work. Cheers.
Look at what Sprayguns Direct have here, killer setup and awesome price. You'll see they have the 2 or 3 filter option www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/?s=Ani+filter+&post_type=product&dgwt_wcas=1
I don’t think your water hose pressure analogy holds. Here is why: With the water hose, the source pressure and volume is staying the same. The restriction is right at the outlet which is why the flow rate decreases. If instead you increased the pressure at the source of the hose, then both pressure and flow would increase. With a spray gun, adjust the pressure at the inlet to the gun is essentially increase the source pressure as the outlet restriction is at the air cap. Now, if you are leaving the pressure into the gun the same and restricting the flow by changing the air cap, then I agree with your example, but it wasn’t clear to me that you were talking about changing the air pressure by using a different air cap (output restriction) rather than changing the pressure at the gun regulator (input pressure).
It does hold, of you swap air caps from hvlp to lvlp you will see an increase in pressure at the gauge without even adjusting the pressure. But ultimately it doesn't matter how you raise it, air cap or just simply raise it. Both will have a similar effect of lowering the size of the droplets leaving the spray gun, exactly what happens when you restrict the flow from your hose by holding your finger tighter.
@@TheGunmanChannel Yes, 100% agree if you are talking changing air caps. However, if talking changing pressure at the gun inlet, then not so much. If you don’t believe me, try pinching your garden hose a few feet back from the end of the hose. You will be increasing the pressure in the hose upstream of where you are pinching it, but the effect downstream is much different. You have to restrict the water/air at the point where it exits. Restricting upstream from the exit has a much less pronounced effect.
Hi, i agree with you. The spray gun operates a little bit diffrent as you say than simple water hose. The key is the vacuum/underpressure at the nozzle not at the inlet the gun. For HVLP if you put 2bar on the inlet you will have 0.7 bar at the nozzle. For RP/ Transtech/ HTE systems are the same 2bars on the inlet you will have ~1.4 1.5bars at the nozzle. The ratio between the quantyty material/ volume ait make diffrent atomization
For me 1. messure viscousity 2.choose suitable nozzle. Sata 1.3 is diffrent than Devilbiss1.3 or Iwata1.3 depends from the model and the brand. With the expirience everything turns automaticly. Cheers all
@@boyanbyankow5192 Which is probably why DeVilbiss and other gun makers specify pressure at the air cap, not the gun inlet. Although most of use don’t have a gauge to measure cap pressure so we have to use inlet pressure as a surrogate.
Im a beginner and I watch your video all the time, I learn a lot from you. Can you sponsor me one does used gun that you have on the shelf not using? Please
id love if I could get your opinions on a quick question. I'm not new but I am still a novice IMO. I would like to get a primer, base, and clear gun, shooting solvents. airs not a problem and no budget. I have spent well ALLOT chasing this newish dream of mine I'm in between the supernovas and the dv1s or if you believe there are better options. at this point I am probably going to buy what ever you would suggest. I want there to be no doubt that if I have an issue its my technique not the equipment.. thank you so much for your time and videos. I really have enjoyed all of them.
You honestly don’t need to spend that sort of money for a good gun. Devilbiss FLG5 with a 1.3 tip is an excellent gun, for a reasonable price and will last forever. I have one with a 1.3 and one with a 1.4, they’re both good, but the 1.3 is better for a flatter finish. I also have a Pro-Lite with TE10 cap and 1.3 needle. It has a much bigger fan than the FLGs and atomises the paint better. You can use any of those for base and clear. For a primer gun, you don’t want to spend too much, because primer is harder to clean out after use, and it tends to build up more. If you’re in Australia, get a Workquip gun. Comes with 3 tips, 1.4, 1.8 and 2.5. About $120, and the one I use for primer, still good after 10 years, intermittent use. There are mid range Iwata guns that lots of painters swear by, but I wouldn’t go for the Supernova unless you’re highly skilled. Hope that’s a help for you.
awesome, thanks for the advice. I'm in the US so I'm not sure if we have workquip here. long story, I own a used auto dealership here and built a new repair facility. the old one was planned for demo but I painted a tailgate on a truck in there a while back and got addicted that quick haha. actually to the point i regret my career choices sometimes haha. i acquired a retired paint booth on the cheap. that was a fun project to restore and just about everything else along the way (i know way overkill for a hobbiest lol) and i have a few throwaway guns but I just could never make up my mind on which good guns to get. I'm kind of weird and want to find a brand to be loyal to. @@reefhog
@@michaeldougherty6653 I know that a lot of painters over there buy Harbor Freight guns for a cheap but reliable gun. Typically you want a 1.7-1.8 for primer, because it’s thicker, but you can thin the primer more and use a 1.4 if you want a flatter surface to sand.
If price is really not an issue. Base: DV1 basecoat gun B plus 1.3 for basecoat, hands down the best base gun. Clear: now there's 2, if you're still learning and want something slower, which will give you a bit more time to watch it going on get the SATA CC clear gun 1.3, but it's expensive, so be warned. Clear 2: if you want to save some dollars but still get a killer gun, look at the ANi Black 1.2 (the have a limited edition Skull version I recommend) get it in digital. Primer: GPG (formerly GPi) 1.8 for primer, no need to spend big dollars on primer gun. All these guns are available at SpraygunsDirect.co.uk and they ship very fast to The States. Email them to say I sent you, for a free spray gun cleaning kit.
Hi Michael, fully agree with Reefhog. I am a DIY home garage painter and I use the FLG5 1.4 for HS clearcoat, just have the fluid dialled back a bit and it produces a superb finish with just a hint of orange peel which gives a factory looking finish. They are a good quality gun and cost me £100 in the UK, they will last a DIY'er for ever. I use the Arigunsa AZT3 1.3 for basecoat, again a great budget gun, cost about £80 in the UK, great thing about this gun is that although it has quite a small fan, which makes it a bit easier to control for the beginner, it uses very little air so is great for home compressor systems. I use the ANI, can't just remember the model, 150 something, in a 1.8 for primer, another great budget gun. If you look back through Gunny's old videos he has reviewed all 3 guns and they come out well, which is why I ended up buying them.
Hello, I really like watching your materials, your work is very professional, but I don't understand everything in English, so I'm asking you to add the Polish language on TH-cam so that I can turn on a translator. Thank you, best regards
hei, could you help me. "If you increase pressure, you get less material". I just dont get it. Pressure should not impact volume. Volume has different knob. Only what higher pressure makes, is more atomization. So clear arrives to surface dryer, thinner has faster way to evaporiaze. Thats my logic. What do you think?
Increasing the pressure will definitely result in less material on the panel, it will be a thinner film due to the higher atomisation but you will have more overspray.
That's a good starting point, I would start there and adjust as required, always watching how it goes on. But I would hold it much closer, like 3 inch.
@3:50......you say "let it dry between coats" Do you mean "DRY"..... or just past tacky......? To me, dry means, sand again and throw another layer......thanks bruh.....
I think a lot of painters get runs and dry spots on the same panel. The cause is pour lighting.
Very informative. May sound a bit obvious, but one tip for newer painters is to mind your overlaps. I also like to stagger them between coats when possible, but the shape of the surfaces ultimately dictate that. Reason for staggering the overlaps is so I'm not always starting/stopping at the same place with every coat, since that's often where you'll end up with runs. An even more basic tip would be to start/stop off the surface whenever possible, but as you gain more experience, you can bend all these rules to fit your form and situation. Thanks again for the vid.
Just explained Bernoulli's principle. Smaller holes speed the air up.Better atomization.
Gunman: it's not rocket science, it's just paint.
Kevin Doyle: it's rocket science.
LoL 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 @@TheGunmanChannel
I completely agree with all of your suggestions. 90% of my runs went away when I started to let the clear flash off properly between coats. With my clear it’s sometimes as long as 10-15 minutes between coats.
The easiest test is just making sure its nice and tacky. If it feels wet or strings up then wait more.
I get a run or two a week when it's cooler but I'm doing 20+ cars and don't have time to worry about it. As long as I can get them out I'm OK with it 😂
What helped me with runs was firstly on my first coat I’m not really 100 percent worried about little dry spots here and there I’m just focused on putting an even thin coat on the panels . Then I let it flash off fully , make sure it is ready I want it to slightly feel like the back side of a peice of tape but not as sticky where I could drag my finger across it somewhat. Then i back up a little bit depending on what kinda of finish I want and put on my final coat the way I want it to look . If I see there is some crazy character lines or letters stamped in somewhere on the panels like those super duty bedsides or tailgates or the trd pro words in the beds , I won’t hesitate to back up and speed up around those areas and leave them a touch dry but still wet and closed . I would rather sand a little texture out with some 2000 and 3000 and buff then cut a run out because even though most of the time you get them out fully sometimes there a slight wave where you cut it , or even worse it pulls your metallics and you can never get them out 100 percent . A run is a pretty good chance of a repaint at the shop I work at , buffing a little texture out of a panel that is not a repaint and is a lot less time wasted and because you have texture to work with from the beginning where you sprayed a touch dry you can sand the texture of the clear enough to match the texture of the rest of the panel you painted , a run the area you blocked , cut out with a blade , etc will be dead flat and can be noticed .Hope my advice helped . I still get runs from time to time we all do as professionals but over the years I’ve gotten better about it
Gunny dialing in from Perth. DIY spraying in my dble garage at home (use it as a temporary booth). Own 3 x W126 V8 Mercs and currently prepping the 89 560SEL AMG for a full respray (same colour 904 dark blue) in late Dec or early Jan. I recently bought one of those "Fanmaster Propane industrial heaters" to use to preheat heat the booth/car before commencing any spraying (after seeing Howard Astill using one in his home booth re prep for Boss XC show car)
I own 5 x LVLP - R500/A610/NVE guns plus HVLP Devilbiss Pro-lite in all the caps +Sagola 4600 Extr T/Truck with all the caps, (+ other dedicated primer guns) so good range to choose from when spraying primer, base & clear for a DIY chasing a more glass finish and not factory finish
Recently had to do a "full respray" on my sons 05 tradie high roof Ford Transit Van on the front driveway open air as too tall for the garage and picked a still/warm morning and it actually came out damn good (lesson - no bugs in the morning but they do come out in the arvo so never spray after 11am). I have 300 ltrs of compressed air with proper 3 stage filtration so plenty of volume/CFM to work with to get clean air that handles the HVLP with ease which is half the battle in a good paint job especially for a full repaint.
My son wants his 2 x Toyota 4wd fully repainted ( 80 series + Hilux) and my 040 black 88 W126 V8 AMG coupe iam doing a widebody conversion so that requires a full respray as well.
Learn't a lot from watching all your videos over the years as i am self taught DIY in all body work, panel & prep & spraying 2 pack, so a big thank you for all the effort you put into your vids for your viewers like me 👍
Yep gunny told me if you never had a run you aint trying hard enough 😊😅
brother! I just want to thank you for all your videos. I've been painting for years. when we didn't have translation in the videos. I'm in Brazil, and I learned a lot just through the images. We currently have translation. Thank you very much! big hug. savin
Well said....also use a good Quality Clear
I know this would be a ton of work, but it would be very cool if you could do a series demonstrating the principles you have discussed here. Somewhat like the orange peel video you made some time ago. Have a video that shows just the difference caused by paint and panel temperature from say 15 to 30 (using C for you outside America folks). Show the difference caused by thinner ratio. Show the difference caused by fluid setting. Show the difference caused by different pressures. Obviously, a lot of videos and a lot of work, but just an idea should get bored and need some new video ideas.
Great Video Definitely right about the supernova in the wrong hands will cause problems. I stay with a Medium all years around myself seems to me it lays down better. You’re giving it that time to gas between coats. I found what works for me as far as clear goes. First coat coverage no dry spots around 22 pounds. 2nd coat turn the pressure up 28 pounds a little closer. 3rd coat step it up a few more a little closer. I found the pressure and the distance is the game changer if you want it lay flat. Long as you don’t hammer it on your first coat your not gonna gets runs sags ect ect. Most important gotta give it enough time between coats. Yea I know three coats is over kill. I do it for a couple reasons one if you decide to cut the whole job got material to work with. Also nips plus to me just looks better. Got a small shop keep the Customers satisfied.
I enjoy your videos and have learnt so much over the years. really appreciate the time you put into posting these clips.
Always great info! A guy can’t learn enough. All makes perfect sense. Keep up the videos.
Interesting, I hadn't thought until you'd mentioned it how warming clear would make it flow more. You'd think "well, I want it to kick faster.." and I guess it will but it will feel "thinner" before it actually does. I always love your words of wisdom, Gunny.
Season's Greetings brother!
Thanks for the tips. Lots of things to look out for and try. Sounds counter intuitive increasing the pressure to put less material on, thats probably where ppl go wrong.
Yeah I guess you're right
Great information. Also depends depends the clear and gun you use. Ive used clear that run very easily.
Oh yea you forgot to say you should go from drinking 20 beers to 15 while your painting 👍nice video
Good you did this. Bin a while for me I did some serious painting. Started on my self in march in restoring aircooled VW’s. And painting is Alaina part of it. Thanks for refreshing ! Let’s paint some shit🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻
The best thing we ever bought was the Walcom Thermodry TD3. Winter and summer then become one. No messing around changing thinner amounts for colder months. This maintains same temperatures all year round. It’s honestly a game changer. Yes it costs £3600 + vat but I wouldn’t work without one now.
Also don’t stop your pass directly on a panel edge. I always make sure my entire fan pattern is 6-12” past the edge of the panel before I trigger off and start the next pass.
I've always wondered about this one as it's very highly ignored, the inverse relationship between pressure and fluid flow. The finger on the water hose is the simplest explanation and is where most amateurs make mistakes in being afraid to open up the gun, which results in even more runs. I've become more comfortable spraying at a little higher pressure than lower... runs have been less, and the finish is flatter
yeah for sure you covered it well , I think you sort of mentioned it but knowing your gun and having a bit of practise with it so you get use to the speed you apply the paint with , some guns apply the paint faster than others but I suppose that's so tangible to points of paint thickness and thinning ratios you talked about
Thanks Mate, brilliant suggestions!
Incredible information and so well communicated. Thanks
I find what helps me is doing a tack coat first then wait 20 minutes and do my next coat and I reduce my clear 10% after the tack coat
Always quality informative videos buddy. Thanks again. 👍
Some good advice there Gunny which would have been a huge help to me a few years ago when I was learning and suffering with runs and doing most of what is on your list totally wrong🤦♂ I don't get many runs these days but it still happens now and again, it's the old saying that if you don't get runs then you aren't trying hard enough🤭
I found the Sata 1.3CC the hardest gun I've had to get used to as I kept getting dry spots in my clear but it was a simple case of changing my painting style by spraying closer and tightening my overlap, now I'm loving this gun👌👍John UK
Thanks man very helpful..
😊 hi gunny cracking advice that you told me to warm up the clear coat paint in water 💧
Loving the Raw videos gunny. Really appreciate it, nice to see everything without the edits. Keep it coming.
That's what I do on my plastic model cars is I use a .5mm tip airbrush I use automotive paint and my clear I use John Kosmoski founder of House Of Kolor mixing ratio of 4:1:1 for my clears
Hey gunny I've been watching you for a few years and learn to paint by watching your shows I had a question and was hoping you can help me out. I spray in an open shop and a high humidity high temperature environment. Every time I spray clear I make sure the coats are dry between coats or if had the proper flash times and every single time I spray clear I get this semi-gloss not wet look like it looked when I sprayed it out of the gun it always looks amazing when I walk away but when I come back it's no longer wet looking but more of a semi-gloss
I need a one gun for basecoat clearcoat for basic home use.
I have a 15cfm air supply and 7 mtr hose with high flow fittings.
Currently using an iwats w400 1.3 and its slow as hell. And very hard to lay wet coats without 3 or 4 slow passes
I am not painting entire cars. Just a panel or 2 and touch up and maybe a bonnet or 2.
You can always dial your fluid knob in half a turn and spray as normal.
But if it's in half a turn is it normal 😲🤯
You just get less material output, but not to where it feels like you have to move slower to flow out. Runs be gone @@TheGunmanChannel
Totally true
Always something to learn here, love it
The single biggest factor in eleminating runs IMO is getting a good CLOSED COAT down for that first coat. It is the foundation that grabs that second WET COAT and holds it in place. Regardless of brands used or 1.5 or two coat method, I have found that a thin, even coat with no dry spots which is what a closed coat is, is the key!
That's absurd. There's a reason dust coats are a thing.
Not absurd at all. Dust coats or grip coats are what some data sheets recommend but not with modern clears
Yeah it's definitely not absurd. Now there are some clears that behave differently, but most clears like a nice wet first coat to stick to, that way you're not fighting the half first coat to get a nice wet finish, leading to overloading and runs.
Where is your shop located.
Mostly un trained rip offs here in sydney.
Dirty booths.. mixed products.. cheap cheap cheap garbage.
I can travel to Vic for a quote
Steve
have you ever used a walcom gun??
Always good videos cheers for the hints bro . What do you think of the Walcom kombat killer 1.3 for clear ?
Лучше возьми Walcom Carbonio
geo 360 is what you want
I'm using Final Systems Ultimate 2K HS Clearcoat, the data says to add 5% reducer ...but even with 10% is seems still fairly thick..., would be safe to go higher? Could you make a video about the viscosity especially with the clear coat please. When I spray clear I seen to end up with alot of tiny raised spot .... could it be that still to thick? Thank you for your videos , very helpful.
I'm about to paint my front end in a barn at 10c with a devilbiss sri
the clear coats i use just have a hardner im not sure what a guy can use to thin it a little bit I use Automotive Art 82-42 with medium hardner or Bessa Bess glass 200- 250 a med solids im used to using Bessa clear using my FLG5 :)
any clear can be reduced. results of doing so may vary however. medium solids clears are already thinner, so reducer may hurt you.
I love your teaching Yh trust ❤
To be honest I can't really remember the last time I got a sage but peel in a whole other story and it does my head in because i know there's a shitload of chopping to be done
Could you use 2kprer sealer on bumper and trim
Hey Gunny - have you got a recommendation for a Coalescer Filter for an air fed mask (noticed you're filtering your air at home) - I'm only spraying occasionally but am considering getting an air fed mask. Currently considering the Iwata 3 stage ($900) but I can get a 2 stage for $500 - Don't want to spend a fortune but also want something that will actually work. Cheers.
Look at what Sprayguns Direct have here, killer setup and awesome price. You'll see they have the 2 or 3 filter option
www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/?s=Ani+filter+&post_type=product&dgwt_wcas=1
I don’t think your water hose pressure analogy holds. Here is why: With the water hose, the source pressure and volume is staying the same. The restriction is right at the outlet which is why the flow rate decreases. If instead you increased the pressure at the source of the hose, then both pressure and flow would increase. With a spray gun, adjust the pressure at the inlet to the gun is essentially increase the source pressure as the outlet restriction is at the air cap. Now, if you are leaving the pressure into the gun the same and restricting the flow by changing the air cap, then I agree with your example, but it wasn’t clear to me that you were talking about changing the air pressure by using a different air cap (output restriction) rather than changing the pressure at the gun regulator (input pressure).
It does hold, of you swap air caps from hvlp to lvlp you will see an increase in pressure at the gauge without even adjusting the pressure.
But ultimately it doesn't matter how you raise it, air cap or just simply raise it. Both will have a similar effect of lowering the size of the droplets leaving the spray gun, exactly what happens when you restrict the flow from your hose by holding your finger tighter.
@@TheGunmanChannel Yes, 100% agree if you are talking changing air caps. However, if talking changing pressure at the gun inlet, then not so much. If you don’t believe me, try pinching your garden hose a few feet back from the end of the hose. You will be increasing the pressure in the hose upstream of where you are pinching it, but the effect downstream is much different. You have to restrict the water/air at the point where it exits. Restricting upstream from the exit has a much less pronounced effect.
Hi, i agree with you. The spray gun operates a little bit diffrent as you say than simple water hose. The key is the vacuum/underpressure at the nozzle not at the inlet the gun. For HVLP if you put 2bar on the inlet you will have 0.7 bar at the nozzle. For RP/ Transtech/ HTE systems are the same 2bars on the inlet you will have ~1.4 1.5bars at the nozzle. The ratio between the quantyty material/ volume ait make diffrent atomization
For me 1. messure viscousity 2.choose suitable nozzle. Sata 1.3 is diffrent than Devilbiss1.3 or Iwata1.3 depends from the model and the brand. With the expirience everything turns automaticly. Cheers all
@@boyanbyankow5192 Which is probably why DeVilbiss and other gun makers specify pressure at the air cap, not the gun inlet. Although most of use don’t have a gauge to measure cap pressure so we have to use inlet pressure as a surrogate.
G,DAY LEGION
Im a beginner and I watch your video all the time, I learn a lot from you. Can you sponsor me one does used gun that you have on the shelf not using? Please
Good tips
id love if I could get your opinions on a quick question. I'm not new but I am still a novice IMO. I would like to get a primer, base, and clear gun, shooting solvents. airs not a problem and no budget. I have spent well ALLOT chasing this newish dream of mine I'm in between the supernovas and the dv1s or if you believe there are better options. at this point I am probably going to buy what ever you would suggest. I want there to be no doubt that if I have an issue its my technique not the equipment.. thank you so much for your time and videos. I really have enjoyed all of them.
You honestly don’t need to spend that sort of money for a good gun. Devilbiss FLG5 with a 1.3 tip is an excellent gun, for a reasonable price and will last forever. I have one with a 1.3 and one with a 1.4, they’re both good, but the 1.3 is better for a flatter finish. I also have a Pro-Lite with TE10 cap and 1.3 needle. It has a much bigger fan than the FLGs and atomises the paint better. You can use any of those for base and clear. For a primer gun, you don’t want to spend too much, because primer is harder to clean out after use, and it tends to build up more. If you’re in Australia, get a Workquip gun. Comes with 3 tips, 1.4, 1.8 and 2.5. About $120, and the one I use for primer, still good after 10 years, intermittent use. There are mid range Iwata guns that lots of painters swear by, but I wouldn’t go for the Supernova unless you’re highly skilled. Hope that’s a help for you.
awesome, thanks for the advice. I'm in the US so I'm not sure if we have workquip here. long story, I own a used auto dealership here and built a new repair facility. the old one was planned for demo but I painted a tailgate on a truck in there a while back and got addicted that quick haha. actually to the point i regret my career choices sometimes haha. i acquired a retired paint booth on the cheap. that was a fun project to restore and just about everything else along the way (i know way overkill for a hobbiest lol) and i have a few throwaway guns but I just could never make up my mind on which good guns to get. I'm kind of weird and want to find a brand to be loyal to. @@reefhog
@@michaeldougherty6653 I know that a lot of painters over there buy Harbor Freight guns for a cheap but reliable gun. Typically you want a 1.7-1.8 for primer, because it’s thicker, but you can thin the primer more and use a 1.4 if you want a flatter surface to sand.
If price is really not an issue.
Base: DV1 basecoat gun B plus 1.3 for basecoat, hands down the best base gun.
Clear: now there's 2, if you're still learning and want something slower, which will give you a bit more time to watch it going on get the SATA CC clear gun 1.3, but it's expensive, so be warned.
Clear 2: if you want to save some dollars but still get a killer gun, look at the ANi Black 1.2 (the have a limited edition Skull version I recommend) get it in digital.
Primer: GPG (formerly GPi) 1.8 for primer, no need to spend big dollars on primer gun.
All these guns are available at SpraygunsDirect.co.uk and they ship very fast to The States.
Email them to say I sent you, for a free spray gun cleaning kit.
Hi Michael, fully agree with Reefhog. I am a DIY home garage painter and I use the FLG5 1.4 for HS clearcoat, just have the fluid dialled back a bit and it produces a superb finish with just a hint of orange peel which gives a factory looking finish. They are a good quality gun and cost me £100 in the UK, they will last a DIY'er for ever. I use the Arigunsa AZT3 1.3 for basecoat, again a great budget gun, cost about £80 in the UK, great thing about this gun is that although it has quite a small fan, which makes it a bit easier to control for the beginner, it uses very little air so is great for home compressor systems. I use the ANI, can't just remember the model, 150 something, in a 1.8 for primer, another great budget gun. If you look back through Gunny's old videos he has reviewed all 3 guns and they come out well, which is why I ended up buying them.
Hello, I really like watching your materials, your work is very professional, but I don't understand everything in English, so I'm asking you to add the Polish language on TH-cam so that I can turn on a translator. Thank you, best regards
Good stuff 🤙🏻
hei, could you help me. "If you increase pressure, you get less material". I just dont get it. Pressure should not impact volume. Volume has different knob. Only what higher pressure makes, is more atomization. So clear arrives to surface dryer, thinner has faster way to evaporiaze. Thats my logic. What do you think?
Increasing the pressure will definitely result in less material on the panel, it will be a thinner film due to the higher atomisation but you will have more overspray.
@@TheGunmanChannel yes, this makes sense as there will be much more overspray and less material arrives to surface
what would cause solve pop
How do you spray clear with the 1.3 cc ? 29 PSI, Full Fan, 2,5 turns out fluid ? Fast Handspeed and 6 inch from panel? cheers!
That's a good starting point, I would start there and adjust as required, always watching how it goes on.
But I would hold it much closer, like 3 inch.
@@TheGunmanChannel I will try 3 Inch, thanks !
Sir please I really like to watch your video but please I mine the spray work but no help to me please
Gunny, u are assuming that people have a heated booth, the amount of people in the UK that spray in a wooden shed is unbelievable
I don't think I was, but you can replace "turn up the temp" with "get some heat in the panel"
Be careful with the word thinner, believe you mean reducer
So please if only you can help me please
Only way to min. Chance of runs is dont paint
Please sir I mine the work ❤0”
No one paints like the GUNMAN end of story.
@3:50......you say "let it dry between coats" Do you mean "DRY"..... or just past tacky......? To me, dry means, sand again and throw another layer......thanks bruh.....
I meant just more tacky. Let it dry longer, not meaning fully dry
Agree on that data sheets are not always right. Always best to follow them initially but if you have issues experiment :-)