I'm also a Certified RV tech and your way of explaining is exactly how I teach new Technicians, the KISS system in other words "keep it simple stupid" I applaud you great job.
Just wanted to give you a big thank you for your video about the Coleman Mach 8 A/C. Mine quit cooling but the squirrel cage fan was running. Checked everything you recommended. One thing mine did different than the one in your video was that when I turned it on, the top fan would start but only turn about 1/2 a revolution then stop. That sort of said it was starting to get some power, but not enough to start. That also said that some power was getting through the high pressure switch. I then replaced both capacitors and... Yippee.. The A/C now runs great and cools just fine. Again, thank you. PS: We were in Port Angeles a couple years ago and loved the area.
Thank you for all the diagnostic pointers that you have in this vid. I checked all the connectors on the compressor, checked the capassotors, everything checked good but it wasn't cooling. I went beyond your vid and installed a saddle valve to check the pressures and it was low. You know what I'm about to say, it had a leak. So I had to research for a replacement unit. My Coleman Mark was discontinued, so I contacted Coleman and got the new replacement and ordered one. It came and my son-in-law and I replaced it. Only the unit, because it was a plug and play to my old unit. The control box and vent cover was reusable. Thanks again.
I've decided to simply watch everyone of your videos. I bought a 33 foot yellowstone capri 5th wheel last year and I have dark tank leaking , water heater and furnace not working. Along with other issues. I've been overwhelmed the last year until I found your channel. Thank you for being exactly how you are. I would have had a 4.0 thru school if my teachers explained as you explain. Again thank you!!!! Steve Monte of Gore, Oklahoma
GREAT video!!!! I am a "jack of all trades" type (and, a licensed Jouneyman Plumber), do all of my own work on rolling stock, house....whatever. As long as I do it to my own standard, I'll do it...myself. This video helped greatly. My MH (1990 Itasca Sunflyer) frequently has issues. Right now, the Coleman 6759 (or, 6757 not certain yet) ceiling unit runs and cools on Low cool. But, no operation (except comp) on High setting. I will fix it. Your video was the first stop! Though not all directly pertaining to my unit, enough info to allow me to proceed. Thank you!
I did your follow the lead test and fixed my RV AC. I only had 7.3 vac to the compressor. I found the main interior AC line was not connected properly. Only sending 7.38vac to main switch. The connection under the wire nut was connected to the black wire AC insulation. Connected properly and AC is now blowing at 56 degrees. Thank you.
FANTASTIC. I have the EXACT issue happening right now, I have a Warranty and the first step is to get a Mechanic to look at it but I believe based on what you showed in this video I can take it and have them diagnose exactly what you showed and get it covered for replacement.
I did my certification early this year. I barely touched on most of this stuff, learning as I go in the field. This is the best channel and I come here often for brainstorming. Stay at it, stranger!
I just now watched this video and it’s very educational, thank you. I don’t think it pertains to our issue but we shall see tomorrow. We’ve got a 2015 Durango Gold and our ‘upstairs’ AC is the Coleman Mach 13.5 btu model 47253A879, and its original to the rv (also we’re full timers). We’ve been fighting massive amounts of condensation dripping on the upstairs bed. I’ve cleaned the coils, I keep the filters inside the rv clean, and those weird black sponge pieces that go below the coils I keep clean as well. But no matter what I do, water builds up in areas where there isn’t a drain hole. Now today it starts struggling, it’s like an engine when the rpm’s drop low then come back up then drop again repeatedly. I turned it off and pulled the covers off and of course it’s full of water again. On a side note, after a storm about a month ago the ‘low’ setting on the thermostat stopped working, it’ll run on low but it’s actually on high, meaning there’s no difference between the two. After I cleaned the whole AC out, I let it run on fan only for a while, then turned the AC on. It ran for a few hours and finally cut out completely. No breakers tripped or anything. For that short time it ran it blew very cold, so I wouldn’t think the compressor is going. But I can’t figure out why it would be running how it was, up and down is how it sounded, then run perfectly fine after I clean it out and it sits for awhile, then it just shuts off. I’m going to do some troubleshooting tomorrow, but if you happen to see this comment between now and tomorrow I’d be curious to know if you have any thoughts. I replaced our main AC a couple years ago because the compressor crapped out, definitely not a hard job but with what these things run now I’d rather fix it if possible rather than replace it.
I'm a career electrician/industrial troubleshooting "expert". (I just hate that word...."Expert". I just loved learning and did it well. Nothing exceptional about this guy) But my point being, it appears you've always loved learning what you do as well. Here's a question that you have to fill in the blank. "The last time you had to use a schematic was _____" A LONG TIME AGO, I'm sure. Old school troubleshooting right here... the PROPER way to teach the new kids in any electrical type of field. Great job. Great teacher. Great video being my first one to have watched of yours.
I've been building a cart/jack system similar to your own, but yours is much simpler. Thanks for the vid, I've been struggling with Mach 8's and Penguins on my own and need to find a way to hoist them like this. Thumbs up from Farley's in Sarasota FL.
Great video and info thanks a lot! About to have to replace my AC… any thoughts on who makes the best ones? I’ve heard there’s a Furrion and maybe a Coleman that come with a soft start so I’m thinking maybe one of those!🤷🏻♂️ Thanks!
I highly recommend simply renting a "material lift" from Home Depot for $55. It can lift 450lbs up to 12ft, and will fit in the back of an SUV or pickup. Made my install super easy and safe.
im glad that you are there to support our questions :) ,,,, im concerned about my coleman mach 10 , every body keep telling me that rv a/c wont work if tempreature exceeds 120 f (50 c ) ,,, what can we do to bypass this issue ,, i need my ac to keep working in hot summer days
Hey Darren My name is Jerry and I am on my 4th day of rv tech school in Clearwater Florida. We just covered air conditioning and your videos were amazing together with what I learned in class this was great. Can't wait to share with the other students.
I'm a Heating and Ac tech for many years i love your videos. I'm thinking of moving over to an RV tech. i love your crane. how did you put that together?
I have a question on my 2006 Keystone Laredo A/C unit, It cools fine to be this old, I replaced the condenser fan 3 years ago when it quit. I have noticed the volume of air out the vents is almost nothing, just a whisper of air with the fan speed switch on high. In the automotive world I would say the fan speed resistor coil is burnt into. Do these system have the same setup. My system is Coleman Mach the factory OEM for this RV. If you have a video on this, I will search for the link Thanks Paul @ Wilmoth Restorations (Car & Truck restorations)
Helpful, much appreciated. After picking through a lot of these, I'm starting to think I've got low refridgerant even though I don't see any evidence of a leak.
Thank you for the great videos Sir! I used them to rule out most things on our Coleman Mach 15k BTU HP2 Heat Pump. The fan comes on but no compressor engagement. 5 wasp nests, great tip! When I did the Common to Run and Common to start, then Run to Start test, the value was half of what both of those added up to. Does this mean a weak compressor? There is a possibility the RV had a power surge that is at play here. I checked the capacitors, they are fine. I checked all the wire connections were seated. Even happy to pay for a phone consult if you do that sort of thing.
We have three of these on our Tiffin bus. Last night it was 56° out. We turned all three on to warm up our bus. The back unit ran all night. The other two units stopped. On the thermostat it says d i f f. I think that means they thought it was too cold outside to run heat pump mode. Just for fun I turn the air conditioning side on. They both ran just like they did this summer no problem.So before I climb up on the roof do you think I need two new free sensors?
Do the bolts come in from the top when there is no ceiling access on those fancy rigs? I assume they do, but you know what happens when you assume! BTY, I'm making an older ladder into a crane come this week end, however mine will be 110 and plug into an extension cord.
I’m changing one out this weekend on my Tiffin. 4 screws and a plug.. but what about sealant? Was there any? Do I need any? You’d skipped past that in the end… thanks for all your videos. I’m growing my rental business.
@@MyRVWorks thanks for the note. Just got the freight yesterday and now see what you mean… now I got to get it up there. Lol. Your knowledge is helping me with repairs for my own equipment. We’re in SF area and wished we had you locally. That fun dad that can fix it all! Thanks for posting content.
There is oil mixed with the freon. It is important to let an air conditioner to sit for 24 hrs anytime it has been not kept completely flat. There is a valve or a smaller diamiter tube that restricts flow to the evaporator. This can get plugged. Better safe than sorry.
I've got a roof top ac , it had a for sure start cap that had blown....I replaced , and the motor would run kind of slow and stop... I tested run cap and it value was just in the verge of variance , so it seemed to work slightly but not all time , so I ordered a new one it test good. But the motor still spun slowly....but run consistently ...I went ahead and ordered a new motor thinking it might be windings....the new motor does the same ...it came with new run cap , so I've tried switching it ..no change, it tested good as well. I retested the capacitance of the start cap again just to see if it changed and it is right on the money at 7.5mfd , I started trying to isolate ...and it will run at normal speed perfectly if I disconnect the start capacitor after its started ... if I try turning on without start capacitor, it won't start up on its own but with a light spin will run just fine...I've tested this out in the previous motor as well. So this makes me believe there maybe something wrong with the start capacitor in some way that it's not discharging prooerly...I've not sure, what do you think? Am I over looking something?
Great video. Can you discuss disconnecting and reconnecting the drain tubes? It looked like this unit has the internal drain tubes that drip out under the RV.
Loved the vedio. Have a question, I have he same exact unit and my problem is that the compressor will turn on and run for 2 min or so and then turn back off, so it cools for 2 min then off for 5 min then back on . This way will never get cool in the trailer . Is it the thermostat?
I have the same unit, different problem. Squirrel cage evap fan motor has a long shaft that goes through a white plastic guide, with bushing or bearing, the bushing or bearing is missing or decomposed and the motor comes on, shaft wobbles, sounds like a Sawzall cutting through the roof. I need the stantion, or the bearing that goes in it and the motor, as shaft has excessive play. See my video posted. Where do I get that plastic shaft guide with bushing?
How you doing sir I have a dometic ac 13,500 btu and it has bit the dust. I was wondering if I could replace it with a 15,000 btu dometic . And if so what all would I has to do different? My trailer is a 50 amp and this would be going on a ducted system. The 13,500 wasn't strong enough to cool my 41 ft toy hauler. It has another 13,500 btu in the master bed room. But its only good enough to cool not even but a 1/4 of the trailer.
Let me try this again. Love your channel, lots of help and good info. My HW10DE element shows 111v at the element and 12v from the meter. The ohm reading is 11.2 but every time I turn the switch on 111v, I hear the sizzle for about 10 seconds and it stops, no hot water on ac.😞 what am I doing wrong??? Please advise. Thanks.
very interesting. What harm or danger would there be to just cut the two blue wires at the bad switch and tie them together bypassing the thing altogether?
If something causes overpressure in the system the compressor won't shut off. You could rupture AC line and have refrigerant leak. Other bad things could happen as well. It's maybe something to consider to keep AC running for rest of camping trip but not a long term solution.
No, that wouldn’t happen. There’s also an overheat sensor on the compressor. If it over pressure it would strain the compressor which would overheat it and stop it working that way and the chances of something getting clogged are very slim anyway.cut it run it till the wheels fall off.
@@delinquentdesign If that was a valid way to ensure the safe operation of the system they would not have installed the pressure switch in the first place.
I'm in covington wa. Do you service this area..? I just bought a new trailer and I don't think air compersir in turning on ... blowing good but not realy cold ??
We mostly stay here on the Olympic peninsula. We have a lot of folks traveling from all over to come up here to have us diagnosed and work on their RV's. There are some really nice RV spots up here if you want to come up this way.
Any time someone says those words... "don't tell OSHA" is the exact moment I turn my head and look at squirrels or something other than someone who just said something!
I have a coleman mach 3 and my compressor didn't go on for a while but then when I went up on roof and took cover off the compressor powered on but it still doesn't cool. I got 3 capacitors could it be going bad?
I've been trying to avail of the warranty coverage as outlined by Coleman. However, I have encountered significant obstacles that prevent me from receiving the assistance I need. I initially visited a Coleman Dealer, Dalton’s RV Center, per Coleman's instructions. Despite adhering to their guidance, the dealer refused to honor the warranty, citing my Amazon purchase as the reason for denial.
If you pull the white wire off the clear relay the ac will run, which also makes for a quick diagnosis. Coleman doesn't use that clear relay anymore. When those units went bad Coleman would replace the ac under warranty.
No power. Got shore power. Was running on board generator with a/c set at 78 was doing great then I set it to 50 and it ran for about ten minutes and then everything died. Everything still works on shore power but I have no power to start generator and no power at all on the 5th wheel when shore power is disconnected plz help kind sir also replaced converter and the two small circuit breakers in the battery bay
That is not been discuss or covered in any of my training. With the number of AC units I have installed, and started right away, I've never run into any issues. Since it has a compressor it will sort itself out rather quickly.
Is this a “whisper quiet” type unit with no return cover inside? I’m thinking one of my units is going bad and looks like the only way to access any attachment points will be from above.
HELP- Question for anybody who can answer. 2005 class a motor home. Both units Have 12 V to the control box. Both units have 120 V to the control box. Both units fans are working. Both units compressor is not working. When you jump out the compressor relayed by connecting the black wire to the purple wire compressor comes on. Both units are controlled by same thermostat. I've tried jumping out the freeze sensor and the room sensor. Still doesn't work. What is the problem? Myself and the best people I know can't figure it out. I'm thinking it must be the control board or the thermostat or the wiring. We are not getting 12 V to the one side of the relay.
I an new at this, and I can not count how many times I got light up like a Christmas tree. Now I am scared touch my ac unit. The problem is it keeps freezing up and low dose not work high is only thing works I got on top to figure it out. I am no where expert at this I came close getting killed I touch wrong wire it was live.
If you don’t have a warranty or the money to pay a HVAC tech to replace the pressure switch just bypass the pressure switch and run the a/c until it dies. It can run like that for a long time. If the reversing valve fails or the system gets a clogged then the system might over pressure and bust out at the weakest point.
There is no price that can be put on the time and information you unselfishly provide. One has to wonder if lack of use was the culprit for this failure? Equipment was meant to be run and used, not sit idly by.
@@MyRVWorks I worked on my 3 AC's last summer, cleaning the coils and regular maintenance. I am very puzzled why they don't add the necessary ports required to service these units. The cost of adding a high and low pressure port on this system cannot be that expensive to the 1500 dollar unit.
I have a Coleman mach 8 model 47004A879 on my 2015 Lifestyle 40' 5th wheel. I am on my second replacement and it just started blowing warm air yet again. Is it just me or is this a TERRIBLE AC unit ?!?!? With the current COVID situation, finding a service tech seems impossible. My trailer has full body BLACK paint with graphics which is making this outage worse.
That part is useless cut the wire and enjoy the ac for many more years. Ever wonder why the old units last so long? Its because they didnt have all these shitty sensors that do nothing but shut off the unit. What a waste.
You must not be a tech, you can't read the funny paper. LOL No formal training at all. You should really practice what you preach. Good thing your tick works, or does it. Test before touch on a known source. LOL
*Works great **Fastly.Cool** compact and Easy to install*
I'm also a Certified RV tech and your way of explaining is exactly how I teach new Technicians, the KISS system in other words "keep it simple stupid" I applaud you great job.
I am a RV tech, this guy information are very helpful. Thank you sir I enjoy your videos.
Great video and helped me understand why my A/C wasn’t working. Saved a ton of money.
Just wanted to give you a big thank you for your video about the Coleman Mach 8 A/C.
Mine quit cooling but the squirrel cage fan was running. Checked everything you recommended.
One thing mine did different than the one in your video was that when I turned it on, the top fan would start but only turn about 1/2 a revolution then stop. That sort of said it was starting to get some power, but not enough to start. That also said that some power was getting through the high pressure switch. I then replaced both capacitors and... Yippee.. The A/C now runs great and cools just fine.
Again, thank you. PS: We were in Port Angeles a couple years ago and loved the area.
Thank you for all the diagnostic pointers that you have in this vid. I checked all the connectors on the compressor, checked the capassotors, everything checked good but it wasn't cooling. I went beyond your vid and installed a saddle valve to check the pressures and it was low. You know what I'm about to say, it had a leak. So I had to research for a replacement unit. My Coleman Mark was discontinued, so I contacted Coleman and got the new replacement and ordered one. It came and my son-in-law and I replaced it. Only the unit, because it was a plug and play to my old unit. The control box and vent cover was reusable. Thanks again.
I've decided to simply watch everyone of your videos. I bought a 33 foot yellowstone capri 5th wheel last year and I have dark tank leaking , water heater and furnace not working. Along with other issues. I've been overwhelmed the last year until I found your channel. Thank you for being exactly how you are. I would have had a 4.0 thru school if my teachers explained as you explain. Again thank you!!!! Steve Monte of Gore, Oklahoma
GREAT video!!!! I am a "jack of all trades" type (and, a licensed Jouneyman Plumber), do all of my own work on rolling stock, house....whatever. As long as I do it to my own standard, I'll do it...myself.
This video helped greatly. My MH (1990 Itasca Sunflyer) frequently has issues. Right now, the Coleman 6759 (or, 6757 not certain yet) ceiling unit runs and cools on Low cool. But, no operation (except comp) on High setting.
I will fix it. Your video was the first stop! Though not all directly pertaining to my unit, enough info to allow me to proceed.
Thank you!
2 weeks of reading information and watching videos and finally a good information on how these parts work together. Thank you!!
I did your follow the lead test and fixed my RV AC. I only had 7.3 vac to the compressor. I found the main interior AC line was not connected properly. Only sending 7.38vac to main switch. The connection under the wire nut was connected to the black wire AC insulation. Connected properly and AC is now blowing at 56 degrees. Thank you.
FANTASTIC. I have the EXACT issue happening right now, I have a Warranty and the first step is to get a Mechanic to look at it but I believe based on what you showed in this video I can take it and have them diagnose exactly what you showed and get it covered for replacement.
From Down Under, Excellent video, great presenter and presentation. Your knowledge is gold and the honest way of presenting is platinum.
TY, Darien. I liked your explanations. I am trouble shooting my RV ac. I am not a tech.
I'm going through RV Tech certification now and this goes beyond what we're learning. Great job!
Same here. Agreed! But this guy is great.
I did my certification early this year. I barely touched on most of this stuff, learning as I go in the field. This is the best channel and I come here often for brainstorming. Stay at it, stranger!
Who and what are you using for that certification?
NRVTA@@starhopper457
I just now watched this video and it’s very educational, thank you. I don’t think it pertains to our issue but we shall see tomorrow.
We’ve got a 2015 Durango Gold and our ‘upstairs’ AC is the Coleman Mach 13.5 btu model 47253A879, and its original to the rv (also we’re full timers). We’ve been fighting massive amounts of condensation dripping on the upstairs bed. I’ve cleaned the coils, I keep the filters inside the rv clean, and those weird black sponge pieces that go below the coils I keep clean as well. But no matter what I do, water builds up in areas where there isn’t a drain hole. Now today it starts struggling, it’s like an engine when the rpm’s drop low then come back up then drop again repeatedly. I turned it off and pulled the covers off and of course it’s full of water again. On a side note, after a storm about a month ago the ‘low’ setting on the thermostat stopped working, it’ll run on low but it’s actually on high, meaning there’s no difference between the two.
After I cleaned the whole AC out, I let it run on fan only for a while, then turned the AC on. It ran for a few hours and finally cut out completely. No breakers tripped or anything. For that short time it ran it blew very cold, so I wouldn’t think the compressor is going. But I can’t figure out why it would be running how it was, up and down is how it sounded, then run perfectly fine after I clean it out and it sits for awhile, then it just shuts off. I’m going to do some troubleshooting tomorrow, but if you happen to see this comment between now and tomorrow I’d be curious to know if you have any thoughts.
I replaced our main AC a couple years ago because the compressor crapped out, definitely not a hard job but with what these things run now I’d rather fix it if possible rather than replace it.
I'm a career electrician/industrial troubleshooting "expert". (I just hate that word...."Expert". I just loved learning and did it well. Nothing exceptional about this guy) But my point being, it appears you've always loved learning what you do as well.
Here's a question that you have to fill in the blank.
"The last time you had to use a schematic was _____"
A LONG TIME AGO, I'm sure.
Old school troubleshooting right here... the PROPER way to teach the new kids in any electrical type of field.
Great job. Great teacher. Great video being my first one to have watched of yours.
I've been building a cart/jack system similar to your own, but yours is much simpler. Thanks for the vid, I've been struggling with Mach 8's and Penguins on my own and need to find a way to hoist them like this. Thumbs up from Farley's in Sarasota FL.
Great video and info thanks a lot! About to have to replace my AC… any thoughts on who makes the best ones? I’ve heard there’s a Furrion and maybe a Coleman that come with a soft start so I’m thinking maybe one of those!🤷🏻♂️ Thanks!
I highly recommend simply renting a "material lift" from Home Depot for $55. It can lift 450lbs up to 12ft, and will fit in the back of an SUV or pickup. Made my install super easy and safe.
im glad that you are there to support our questions :) ,,,, im concerned about my coleman mach 10 , every body keep telling me that rv a/c wont work if tempreature exceeds 120 f (50 c ) ,,, what can we do to bypass this issue ,, i need my ac to keep working in hot summer days
Hey Darren My name is Jerry and I am on my 4th day of rv tech school in Clearwater Florida. We just covered air conditioning and your videos were amazing together with what I learned in class this was great. Can't wait to share with the other students.
I'm a Heating and Ac tech for many years i love your videos. I'm thinking of moving over to an RV tech. i love your crane. how did you put that together?
I have a question on my 2006 Keystone Laredo A/C unit, It cools fine to be this old, I replaced the condenser fan 3 years ago when it quit. I have noticed the volume of air out the vents is almost nothing, just a whisper of air with the fan speed switch on high. In the automotive world I would say the fan speed resistor coil is burnt into. Do these system have the same setup. My system is Coleman Mach the factory OEM for this RV. If you have a video on this, I will search for the link Thanks Paul @ Wilmoth Restorations (Car & Truck restorations)
Helpful, much appreciated. After picking through a lot of these, I'm starting to think I've got low refridgerant even though I don't see any evidence of a leak.
You are very informative with no holds back! love your videos! Thank you for all that you are doing!
Great video, I just found your stuff on TH-cam the other day and these are great, keep up the good work and helping people get back to using their RV.
I enjoy your videos. My Mach 8 appears to be bolted down from the inside of my coach with 4 long bolts… is that right?
you demystified info that is not normally available thank you i am starting to work on mine
Great job explaining complex details.
Thank you for the great videos Sir! I used them to rule out most things on our Coleman Mach 15k BTU HP2 Heat Pump. The fan comes on but no compressor engagement. 5 wasp nests, great tip! When I did the Common to Run and Common to start, then Run to Start test, the value was half of what both of those added up to. Does this mean a weak compressor? There is a possibility the RV had a power surge that is at play here.
I checked the capacitors, they are fine. I checked all the wire connections were seated. Even happy to pay for a phone consult if you do that sort of thing.
Wow great video I wish I could work for id b a journeyman in 1 month great training thx God bless
Great video good info on hunting down the trail.but I have a question how can I get a hold of you do you have a chat line
BIG KEY 16:06 why a FURNACE might now work!
We have three of these on our Tiffin bus. Last night it was 56° out. We turned all three on to warm up our bus. The back unit ran all night. The other two units stopped. On the thermostat it says d i f f. I think that means they thought it was too cold outside to run heat pump mode. Just for fun I turn the air conditioning side on. They both ran just like they did this summer no problem.So before I climb up on the roof do you think I need two new free sensors?
Great video!... Curious?... Couldn’t you have connected the two blue wires together to troubleshoot to see if that a was the problem?
yes but then he couldnt sell them a $700 ac..his momma didnt raise no dummy!..=]
Do you have any closeups or details of how you made the winch on the ladder? I like it. Never mind! I found it!! LOL
Thanks!
Do the bolts come in from the top when there is no ceiling access on those fancy rigs? I assume they do, but you know what happens when you assume! BTY, I'm making an older ladder into a crane come this week end, however mine will be 110 and plug into an extension cord.
Just showing how you get those AC's up on the roof is worth gold.
I’m changing one out this weekend on my Tiffin. 4 screws and a plug.. but what about sealant? Was there any? Do I need any? You’d skipped past that in the end… thanks for all your videos. I’m growing my rental business.
The foam gasket serves as the 'sealant'. So, nothing more than that is necessary.
@@MyRVWorks thanks for the note. Just got the freight yesterday and now see what you mean… now I got to get it up there. Lol. Your knowledge is helping me with repairs for my own equipment. We’re in SF area and wished we had you locally. That fun dad that can fix it all! Thanks for posting content.
There is oil mixed with the freon. It is important to let an air conditioner to sit for 24 hrs anytime it has been not kept completely flat. There is a valve or a smaller diamiter tube that restricts flow to the evaporator. This can get plugged. Better safe than sorry.
I've got a roof top ac , it had a for sure start cap that had blown....I replaced , and the motor would run kind of slow and stop... I tested run cap and it value was just in the verge of variance , so it seemed to work slightly but not all time , so I ordered a new one it test good. But the motor still spun slowly....but run consistently ...I went ahead and ordered a new motor thinking it might be windings....the new motor does the same ...it came with new run cap , so I've tried switching it ..no change, it tested good as well. I retested the capacitance of the start cap again just to see if it changed and it is right on the money at 7.5mfd , I started trying to isolate ...and it will run at normal speed perfectly if I disconnect the start capacitor after its started ... if I try turning on without start capacitor, it won't start up on its own but with a light spin will run just fine...I've tested this out in the previous motor as well. So this makes me believe there maybe something wrong with the start capacitor in some way that it's not discharging prooerly...I've not sure, what do you think? Am I over looking something?
Very, very hard to find guys like Darren with his credentials/degrees.
I'm glad I found your channel. Will you come to south Florida? We are in need of some GOOD mobile RV mechanic. There is just no one down this way.
Great video. Can you discuss disconnecting and reconnecting the drain tubes? It looked like this unit has the internal drain tubes that drip out under the RV.
Loved the vedio.
Have a question, I have he same exact unit and my problem is that the compressor will turn on and run for 2 min or so and then turn back off, so it cools for 2 min then off for 5 min then back on . This way will never get cool in the trailer . Is it the thermostat?
Great video, love your stuff, thank you
Another Great Video.. Thanks Darren..
22:06Well HELLO!
LOL. Darren is fast eh'!
I have the same unit, different problem. Squirrel cage evap fan motor has a long shaft that goes through a white plastic guide, with bushing or bearing, the bushing or bearing is missing or decomposed and the motor comes on, shaft wobbles, sounds like a Sawzall cutting through the roof. I need the stantion, or the bearing that goes in it and the motor, as shaft has excessive play. See my video posted.
Where do I get that plastic shaft guide with bushing?
First time viewer, I like your instruction! Great teacher.
How you doing sir I have a dometic ac 13,500 btu and it has bit the dust. I was wondering if I could replace it with a 15,000 btu dometic . And if so what all would I has to do different? My trailer is a 50 amp and this would be going on a ducted system. The 13,500 wasn't strong enough to cool my 41 ft toy hauler. It has another 13,500 btu in the master bed room. But its only good enough to cool not even but a 1/4 of the trailer.
Thank you.
Darren you are a master...thanks!
I love your method keep up the good work.
Another great video. Thank you for taking the time to educate.
Always enjoy learning from your videos
nice work!
Let me try this again. Love your channel, lots of help and good info. My HW10DE element shows 111v at the element and 12v from the meter. The ohm reading is 11.2 but every time I turn the switch on 111v, I hear the sizzle for about 10 seconds and it stops, no hot water on ac.😞 what am I doing wrong??? Please advise. Thanks.
3 months and STILL NO REPLY? im a new rv tech myself, have you figured this out yet, lmk
@@haydensommers420 yes, the new element that I keep in my spare parts was the answere.☺
very interesting. What harm or danger would there be to just cut the two blue wires at the bad switch and tie them together bypassing the thing altogether?
If something causes overpressure in the system the compressor won't shut off. You could rupture AC line and have refrigerant leak. Other bad things could happen as well. It's maybe something to consider to keep AC running for rest of camping trip but not a long term solution.
No, that wouldn’t happen. There’s also an overheat sensor on the compressor. If it over pressure it would strain the compressor which would overheat it and stop it working that way and the chances of something getting clogged are very slim anyway.cut it run it till the wheels fall off.
@@delinquentdesign If that was a valid way to ensure the safe operation of the system they would not have installed the pressure switch in the first place.
I'm in covington wa. Do you service this area..?
I just bought a new trailer and I don't think air compersir in turning on ... blowing good but not realy cold ??
We mostly stay here on the Olympic peninsula. We have a lot of folks traveling from all over to come up here to have us diagnosed and work on their RV's. There are some really nice RV spots up here if you want to come up this way.
Any time someone says those words... "don't tell OSHA" is the exact moment I turn my head and look at squirrels or something other than someone who just said something!
Great job!
Great video, THANK YOU!!
I have a coleman mach 3 and my compressor didn't go on for a while but then when I went up on roof and took cover off the compressor powered on but it still doesn't cool. I got 3 capacitors could it be going bad?
I've been trying to avail of the warranty coverage as outlined by Coleman. However, I have encountered significant obstacles that prevent me from receiving the assistance I need. I initially visited a Coleman Dealer, Dalton’s RV Center, per Coleman's instructions. Despite adhering to their guidance, the dealer refused to honor the warranty, citing my Amazon purchase as the reason for denial.
Cual es el precio para una unidad nueva
If you pull the white wire off the clear relay the ac will run, which also makes for a quick diagnosis. Coleman doesn't use that clear relay anymore. When those units went bad Coleman would replace the ac under warranty.
No power. Got shore power. Was running on board generator with a/c set at 78 was doing great then I set it to 50 and it ran for about ten minutes and then everything died. Everything still works on shore power but I have no power to start generator and no power at all on the 5th wheel when shore power is disconnected plz help kind sir also replaced converter and the two small circuit breakers in the battery bay
👍👍🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦👍 Excellent troubleshooting Darren !!!
How do you know if your air conditioner is still under warranty
I was always taught once the AC unit was stood up on its edge it needed to rest flat for 24 hours. Is this true?
That is not been discuss or covered in any of my training. With the number of AC units I have installed, and started right away, I've never run into any issues. Since it has a compressor it will sort itself out rather quickly.
Is this a “whisper quiet” type unit with no return cover inside? I’m thinking one of my units is going bad and looks like the only way to access any attachment points will be from above.
Now the unit ( Dometic Brisk 13k) has gone out and they all seem to be getting poor reviews so I want to swap to Coleman? Is this feasible?
You should be an instructor ... Awesome job on the video
HELP- Question for anybody who can answer. 2005 class a motor home. Both units Have 12 V to the control box. Both units have 120 V to the control box. Both units fans are working. Both units compressor is not working. When you jump out the compressor relayed by connecting the black wire to the purple wire compressor comes on. Both units are controlled by same thermostat. I've tried jumping out the freeze sensor and the room sensor. Still doesn't work. What is the problem? Myself and the best people I know can't figure it out. I'm thinking it must be the control board or the thermostat or the wiring. We are not getting 12 V to the one side of the relay.
What is the price for niw one
I an new at this, and I can not count how many times I got light up like a Christmas tree. Now I am scared touch my ac unit. The problem is it keeps freezing up and low dose not work high is only thing works I got on top to figure it out. I am no where expert at this I came close getting killed I touch wrong wire it was live.
his rv works
If you don’t have a warranty or the money to pay a HVAC tech to replace the pressure switch just bypass the pressure switch and run the a/c until it dies. It can run like that for a long time. If the reversing valve fails or the system gets a clogged then the system might over pressure and bust out at the weakest point.
I know this was 3 years ago but does the white wire on relay do the same as twisting the 2 blue wires together?
There is no price that can be put on the time and information you unselfishly provide. One has to wonder if lack of use was the culprit for this failure? Equipment was meant to be run and used, not sit idly by.
Thank you for your kind comments. Not sure why this air conditioner failed. It was a $12 part something so simple.
@@MyRVWorks I worked on my 3 AC's last summer, cleaning the coils and regular maintenance. I am very puzzled why they don't add the necessary ports required to service these units. The cost of adding a high and low pressure port on this system cannot be that expensive to the 1500 dollar unit.
I have a Coleman mach 8 model 47004A879 on my 2015 Lifestyle 40' 5th wheel. I am on my second replacement and it just started blowing warm air yet again. Is it just me or is this a TERRIBLE AC unit ?!?!? With the current COVID situation, finding a service tech seems impossible. My trailer has full body BLACK paint with graphics which is making this outage worse.
dude i have same problem in all black 28 footer! looking for tech now .. can you help?
My second Coleman Mach 8 quit working after 2 years. First one was replaced under warranty in 1 year. Conclusion is these are junk!
Get video!!
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Save you same time, he doesn’t tell you what was wrong. He replaced the unit with a new one.
He did say what was wrong. The high pressure switch was bad.
If you're that pressed for time, why not just finish the video tomorrow ?
He's pressed for time to finish it that day genius
That part is useless cut the wire and enjoy the ac for many more years. Ever wonder why the old units last so long? Its because they didnt have all these shitty sensors that do nothing but shut off the unit. What a waste.
haha..i see the problem, capacitor say's '' made in china '' !!..lmfao.
You must not be a tech, you can't read the funny paper. LOL No formal training at all. You should really practice what you preach. Good thing your tick works, or does it. Test before touch on a known source. LOL
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