Thanks dude, I didn't understand the LED indicator circuit fully until you mentioned that the resistor added in parallel helps draw more current THROUGH the flasher unit
Thank you, exactly what I was looking for. I was curious why the led resistors were always fitted in parallel. At the same time I'm installing sweeping LED flashers to my motorcycle so by knowing how the resistance affects the flash time it'll help me to better gauge what I need to change if the let's don't complete a full flash before being reset.
I installed these resistors I believe in parallel (two wires coming off light socket, installed one resistor wire to each) and I only get hyperflashing while the parking lights or headlights are on. With the lights off my blinker works as normal. Any idea whats going on there? These are the basic 50w 6ohm resitors you can buy off Amazon.
Great explanation thank you. I was under the (apparently false) impression that the resistance of LEDs was too low and the resistor needed to be in series. I suppose it makes sense since the flasher will behave exactly the same way when a standard bulb goes out and there’s an open circuit.
Assuming there aren't any compatibility issues on the vehicle outside of the flasher unit itself, that combination should work. It would definitely be worth checking all four lights for turn signal and flasher/four-way/hazards after installation just in case, though.
@CarsSimified so with 12 volts, decided by amps. Those Sylvania zevo 3157c draws 5.3W per bulb. Much better than what they claim and labeled 4W on the led bulbs. And that’s actually pretty bright. Some say they need a backup camera to see better at night, but after installing these zevo 3157C with 5.3W, and it has a large diffuse lens. It’s super bright. These would be great option for reverse lights. Need to get my hands on them and see for myself.
For anything with a back-up camera, improved reverse lights make a big difference, especially if the camera otherwise has a really grainy image. There's a chance some cameras will simply have two sensor levels (day and night) which will keep night time grainy, but any other vehicle? Wild improvement! Sylvania Zevo, Diode Dynamics, and Lasfit are my three favorite brands for automotive LEDs at the moment.
@@CarsSimplified I agree with u. Lasfit is my most go to brand. Sylvania zevo is my most as set it and forgetted type, and Auxito is also my go to. Diode dynamics are knowing for one of the best of the best. Would u recommend the sylvania zevo 3257C making 5.3W-5.6W for reverse light?
Hey, question out of the blue. I have a turn signal on my 36v ebike, but i want to add additional LEDs on the sides. Could i put a DC DC step down converter from 36v to 12v after the flasher relay and get the same flashing in 12v? Or how would you solve the problem? (I can't find any decent 36v leds to use)
Tricky! I don't think I've ever come across a 36V system before! Since 12V happens to be a third of 36V, the step down should be pretty easy to find! My plan would be to go with that and make some sort of small unit to house the 12V circuitry. I would put the flasher on the 12V side. This approach also gives you a point to build off of in case you want to add 12V taillights, brake lights, headlights, etc. However, the 36V would also make it tempting to put three 12V lights in series. That would be expensive and maybe too bight (a resistor could help with the latter), but would eliminate the need for the step down circuitry. In this case my gut says the 12V thermal flasher would work, but I'm not certain. The latter of those two ideas is a little more risky on the components, so the first idea is what I'd go with. I don't work with step down converters/transformers very often so I'm not sure if I'm forgetting any factors in regards to their particular behavior.
@@CarsSimplified Thank you for your answer! Interesting idea to put them in series, I did not consider that, it surely is an opportunity. The existing system already have taillights, brakelights, headlights and turn lights, all on a 36v system. I think my real question is, if I would still get the same intervals of flashing after a step down from 36v to 12v? Since the flasher already is built into the 36v system. I have a suspicion, that the capacitors in the step down converter will disrupt the frequency of the the flashing.
Unlikely it will work : 1) your flasher relay may have to support 36 Vdc (2) the 12V flasher relays needs sufficient load current to flash since it is a thermal device. So extremely doubtful that adding converter and leds are sufficient load (3) regardless, not a great idea to be cycling the input to the converter. But in this case even though the planned result does not work, occasional cycling would be ok. (4) Using the parallel resistor will add a lot more power battery consumption although only when flashing . (5) I am not sure where you would connect the converter (6) Without knowing the circuit, hard to suggest a solution.
Yes, it will work. Converting the power takes power to do. If you are also adding extra lights you are adding extra current draw. One thing could happen but not likely, the lights you have running through the step down could possibly be slightly out of time with the lights running on the 36v circuit if you intend on running both. If it does not work which I don’t think you will have a problem with, just get a 12v led compatible flasher canister. If you can’t find one the same shape/ size just mount it remotely and wire it into the original flasher can mount
I am converting to a 40 bulb led 3rd brake light. I am trying to reduce the the current or watts or amp so that it won’t burn out the board in the light. Would wiring the resistor in a series achieve that? What size resistor should I use? This is a car that never had a third break light.
That would be the way to do it! However, the resistor you need (or don't need) will depend on if the third brake light already has a built-in resistor, and how much current the lights can handle. Is this an aftermarket add-on kit of some sort, or a home made item?
Aned flasher relay is design for led bulbs and still can use incandescent bulbs, that u will not have hyperflash anymore. And u can throw a resistor if that’s were u want to go. But it’s overkill. A led flasher relay and consumes 163W that’s design for led turn signal lights. And u will no longer experience hyperflash anymore.
What is the point of using LED lamps ? You are not saving energy consumption if you have to connect a parallel load resistor. The resistors get hot and take up a lot of space and you have to find a suitable metal surface to mount them on. The only advantage is theoretical longer life. But cons are more serious than the pro.
The idea for led load equalizer resistor is to trick the vehicle’s computer, so the computer thinks it running with incandescent bulbs but in reality. We’re running with led.
Thanks dude, I didn't understand the LED indicator circuit fully until you mentioned that the resistor added in parallel helps draw more current THROUGH the flasher unit
Thank you, exactly what I was looking for. I was curious why the led resistors were always fitted in parallel. At the same time I'm installing sweeping LED flashers to my motorcycle so by knowing how the resistance affects the flash time it'll help me to better gauge what I need to change if the let's don't complete a full flash before being reset.
I installed these resistors I believe in parallel (two wires coming off light socket, installed one resistor wire to each) and I only get hyperflashing while the parking lights or headlights are on. With the lights off my blinker works as normal. Any idea whats going on there? These are the basic 50w 6ohm resitors you can buy off Amazon.
Good job explaining. I understood the process, but wanted to hear the explanation out loud.
Great explanation thank you. I was under the (apparently false) impression that the resistance of LEDs was too low and the resistor needed to be in series.
I suppose it makes sense since the flasher will behave exactly the same way when a standard bulb goes out and there’s an open circuit.
Could the bulbs with built in resister work with a led bulb flasher relay?
Assuming there aren't any compatibility issues on the vehicle outside of the flasher unit itself, that combination should work. It would definitely be worth checking all four lights for turn signal and flasher/four-way/hazards after installation just in case, though.
@CarsSimified so with 12 volts, decided by amps. Those Sylvania zevo 3157c draws 5.3W per bulb. Much better than what they claim and labeled 4W on the led bulbs.
And that’s actually pretty bright.
Some say they need a backup camera to see better at night, but after installing these zevo 3157C with 5.3W, and it has a large diffuse lens. It’s super bright.
These would be great option for reverse lights.
Need to get my hands on them and see for myself.
For anything with a back-up camera, improved reverse lights make a big difference, especially if the camera otherwise has a really grainy image. There's a chance some cameras will simply have two sensor levels (day and night) which will keep night time grainy, but any other vehicle? Wild improvement! Sylvania Zevo, Diode Dynamics, and Lasfit are my three favorite brands for automotive LEDs at the moment.
@@CarsSimplified I agree with u.
Lasfit is my most go to brand. Sylvania zevo is my most as set it and forgetted type, and Auxito is also my go to.
Diode dynamics are knowing for one of the best of the best.
Would u recommend the sylvania zevo 3257C making 5.3W-5.6W for reverse light?
Hey, question out of the blue.
I have a turn signal on my 36v ebike, but i want to add additional LEDs on the sides.
Could i put a DC DC step down converter from 36v to 12v after the flasher relay and get the same flashing in 12v?
Or how would you solve the problem?
(I can't find any decent 36v leds to use)
Tricky! I don't think I've ever come across a 36V system before! Since 12V happens to be a third of 36V, the step down should be pretty easy to find! My plan would be to go with that and make some sort of small unit to house the 12V circuitry. I would put the flasher on the 12V side. This approach also gives you a point to build off of in case you want to add 12V taillights, brake lights, headlights, etc.
However, the 36V would also make it tempting to put three 12V lights in series. That would be expensive and maybe too bight (a resistor could help with the latter), but would eliminate the need for the step down circuitry. In this case my gut says the 12V thermal flasher would work, but I'm not certain.
The latter of those two ideas is a little more risky on the components, so the first idea is what I'd go with. I don't work with step down converters/transformers very often so I'm not sure if I'm forgetting any factors in regards to their particular behavior.
@@CarsSimplified Thank you for your answer!
Interesting idea to put them in series, I did not consider that, it surely is an opportunity.
The existing system already have taillights, brakelights, headlights and turn lights, all on a 36v system.
I think my real question is, if I would still get the same intervals of flashing after a step down from 36v to 12v? Since the flasher already is built into the 36v system.
I have a suspicion, that the capacitors in the step down converter will disrupt the frequency of the the flashing.
Unlikely it will work : 1) your flasher relay may have to support 36 Vdc (2) the 12V flasher relays needs sufficient load current to flash since it is a thermal device. So extremely doubtful that adding converter and leds are sufficient load (3) regardless, not a great idea to be cycling the input to the converter. But in this case even though the planned result does not work, occasional cycling would be ok. (4) Using the parallel resistor will add a lot more power battery consumption although only when flashing . (5) I am not sure where you would connect the converter (6) Without knowing the circuit, hard to suggest a solution.
Yes, it will work.
Converting the power takes power to do.
If you are also adding extra lights you are adding extra current draw.
One thing could happen but not likely, the lights you have running through the step down could possibly be slightly out of time with the lights running on the 36v circuit if you intend on running both.
If it does not work which I don’t think you will have a problem with, just get a 12v led compatible flasher canister.
If you can’t find one the same shape/ size just mount it remotely and wire it into the original flasher can mount
I am converting to a 40 bulb led 3rd brake light. I am trying to reduce the the current or watts or amp so that it won’t burn out the board in the light. Would wiring the resistor in a series achieve that? What size resistor should I use? This is a car that never had a third break light.
That would be the way to do it! However, the resistor you need (or don't need) will depend on if the third brake light already has a built-in resistor, and how much current the lights can handle. Is this an aftermarket add-on kit of some sort, or a home made item?
What resistance to use for this?
Most of the time it will be 6 ohms, but it will differ on some cars.
If I were to have replaced the Flasher with an LED style flasher what I still have to add in the voltage resistor for LED tail lights as well?
Aned flasher relay is design for led bulbs and still can use incandescent bulbs, that u will not have hyperflash anymore.
And u can throw a resistor if that’s were u want to go.
But it’s overkill.
A led flasher relay and consumes 163W that’s design for led turn signal lights.
And u will no longer experience hyperflash anymore.
Very informative. Ty
Huh, interesting. Missing the playlist cards at the end.
Oh, thanks for the heads up! Made the correction.
Electrical Engineering time!!!
very simple, nice
What is the point of using LED lamps ? You are not saving energy consumption if you have to connect a parallel load resistor. The resistors get hot and take up a lot of space and you have to find a suitable metal surface to mount them on. The only advantage is theoretical longer life. But cons are more serious than the pro.
The idea for led load equalizer resistor is to trick the vehicle’s computer, so the computer thinks it running with incandescent bulbs but in reality. We’re running with led.