This is the best video ever. I never would have thought of opening the switch itself but all i had was a switch with more clearance which needed to be super pressed deep with a lot of travel to actuate. I just put electrical tape between the switch and metal allowing the switch to actuate as it should with small amount of travel. I didn’t even have to buy anything! Thank you!!!
Thanks for the video. Although it's not Kosher nor recommended, I've disconnected my monitor switch completely about a year ago as I was having the same problem. This solved the problem and there are no more tripped Breakers. When opening the door when the microwave is running, it stops immediately and we've had no trouble since. I do realize that if one of the other switches fails, there's a possibility of the microwave continuing to run if the door is pulled open. We never open the door midstream. Rather, we always turn the mic off prior to opening and there are no children in the house that could possibly do differently.
If you open the door while the microwave is running to PAUSE it, you risk a power serge to the switches. Hit PAUSE then open the door and the power to the switches will be off. If you pull on the bottom or top of the handle while the microwave is running and open the door one switch will disengage first sending a power serge to the middle switch frying it over time. Hit pause first...then open the door or wait until the microwave had shut off to open the door. PAUSE is on that key pad for a reason.
Thanks turned out to be the exact same thing !!!! mind was two found two empty screws that hold the door switch bracket added two extra screws!!! door stays closed tighter!!😀
I have a GE microwave and have this exact problem. I think this is a design flaw. I noticed it when I bought it. Most microwaves, even cheap ones, you have to push a large button to pop open the door. And that's a more reliable and robust way of determining the state of the door. I think GE tried to cheap out by skipping the button. I am going to replace the switches and hope that does the trick. If that doesn't work, it'd be time to buy a new microwave. I don't feel like messing with shims, etc.
Good job identifying the issue. Most videos just say to replace the switches. However, you didn't really fix the issue. The issue is clearance within the plastics housing. You know, that plastic piece that is worn out only cost me $10 plus shipping.
If you are referring to the electrical connectors that push on to the metal prongs of the switches, then a firm grasp on the plastic plug (not wires) , and pulling away from the switch, should allow it to slide off. These plugs can be seen at the 6:41 minute mark of the video...I hope this helps.
You added a shim to the switch subassembly that pushed it away from the door, and then added a shim to the door because it couldn't reach the switches. Seems like you added too much to the switch subassembly.
YOU are the only one discuss this reason for the issue .
This is the best video ever. I never would have thought of opening the switch itself but all i had was a switch with more clearance which needed to be super pressed deep with a lot of travel to actuate. I just put electrical tape between the switch and metal allowing the switch to actuate as it should with small amount of travel. I didn’t even have to buy anything! Thank you!!!
Thanks for the video. Although it's not Kosher nor recommended, I've disconnected my monitor switch completely about a year ago as I was having the same problem. This solved the problem and there are no more tripped Breakers. When opening the door when the microwave is running, it stops immediately and we've had no trouble since. I do realize that if one of the other switches fails, there's a possibility of the microwave continuing to run if the door is pulled open. We never open the door midstream. Rather, we always turn the mic off prior to opening and there are no children in the house that could possibly do differently.
If you open the door while the microwave is running to PAUSE it, you risk a power serge to the switches. Hit PAUSE then open the door and the power to the switches will be off. If you pull on the bottom or top of the handle while the microwave is running and open the door one switch will disengage first sending a power serge to the middle switch frying it over time. Hit pause first...then open the door or wait until the microwave had shut off to open the door. PAUSE is on that key pad for a reason.
Thank you this really helped me 👍🏼
Nice bro thanks for the explaining correctly ❤
Thanks turned out to be the exact same thing !!!! mind was two found two empty screws that hold the door switch bracket added two extra screws!!! door stays closed tighter!!😀
Very educational.
I have a GE microwave and have this exact problem. I think this is a design flaw. I noticed it when I bought it. Most microwaves, even cheap ones, you have to push a large button to pop open the door. And that's a more reliable and robust way of determining the state of the door. I think GE tried to cheap out by skipping the button. I am going to replace the switches and hope that does the trick. If that doesn't work, it'd be time to buy a new microwave. I don't feel like messing with shims, etc.
Good job identifying the issue. Most videos just say to replace the switches. However, you didn't really fix the issue. The issue is clearance within the plastics housing. You know, that plastic piece that is worn out only cost me $10 plus shipping.
You are talking about the “latch board” right? Do you have a link for where you bought it?
Thanks Dave. I've tried to find (without success) the Microwave Latch Hook Switch Holder Latch Body for a G.E. , did you find one and If so where?
I think there is no new parts for the holder , the only way to renovate it .
Definitely a Canadien.
Close...Just a little South
How do you remove the white connectors from the switch?
If you are referring to the electrical connectors that push on to the metal prongs of the switches, then a firm grasp on the plastic plug (not wires) , and pulling away from the switch, should allow it to slide off. These plugs can be seen at the 6:41 minute mark of the video...I hope this helps.
You added a shim to the switch subassembly that pushed it away from the door, and then added a shim to the door because it couldn't reach the switches. Seems like you added too much to the switch subassembly.