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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2022
- This 9-year-old microwave all the sudden stopped working with a blown internal fuse. The fix was easy and cheap enough; however, I did not get a definitive answer on what part actually fixed it, the latch board or the switches or a combination of both.
Latch board part# GE Wb06x10610
amazon part # AP3866945 $55
switches also through amazon $9 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Thanks. My Whirlpool had one door switch that was stuck/jammed and caused fuse to blow. It seems this is pretty common across multiple brands and models. When looking for switches, there are "normally closed" (NC), "normally open" (NO), and maybe a monitor type. Different models have different numbers of each type. For Whirlpool, look for part numbers/models on the existing switches like SZM-V16-FC-62 (NC) and SCM-V16-FC-63 (NO).
I watched 20 videos with no help. Watched yours and realized I had a switch in the wrong spot. Problem solved. Thanks
Thanks for your video! My microwave had a similar issue blowing the fuse. I had a feeling it was one of the switches. Your video helped me see where the switches are located. I tested them with a meter and the one that did not change from 0 ohms to open when the door was opened and closed was the bad one. Thanks again 😊
Outstanding presentation. Thank you very much.
Thank you for your diligence!
Thank You !!! Very Helpful.
It took a lot of patience.
Much Appreciated.
I was a little wary of this video because of the sparking when he opened the door. But I have to say, this is the most thorough video I've seen. I couldn't find a video anywhere that shows the actual removal of the latch board and switches, probably because it's not as easy as it sounds. For those attempting, you DO need to remove the latch board in order to remove the switches because the little tab that holds them in place is on the back side of the switch. Be very careful not to break the tabs as they will be brittle. I used a very small needle nosed pliers to hold the tabs back while gently pulling the switches out. In my case, it looked like the button on the middle switch was worn. But on further inspection, it was stuck pushed in. I pushed it firmly and the button popped up again and seems to be working fine. However, since I don't know why it got stuck in the first place, I will be replacing all three switches.
Thanks for posting your video, I am having exactly the same problem (fuse blown again..) as you , and identify that one of the switches does not work/click. I am ordering the new switches and impatiently waiting for them to arrive :)
I am with you. Slow, methodical and sure. Congrats!! I had your patience, so it was a Joy to view. MJ 😊
Thanks for your video my ge microwave had same issue. I tested your theory on if it was rather the switches or the bracket holding the switches. In my case switches were good and bracket was trash. I also broke a tab on middle micro switch. I fixed this issue by shimming micro switch with a piece of cardboard and seem to be working just great.
Same problem thanks John 2017 Ge fried switch swiped one out of another broken microwave added a little silicon grease!!!! works like a champ!!!😀
Looks like I've had the same problem. It's been over a year since I left my microwave alone and bought a separate crappy one just to get things warmed up. Newer model (2017) and the grooves you described look like they're out of tolerance too. Thanks for the info, now to see how much it is....not bad. $25 with Amazon shipping. Wish me luck!
Here’s what I found after watching your video having the same problems. I replaced one of the pressure switches after doing a continuity test and it wasn’t working. Same thing it started blowing fuses. So what I found since watching your video was that my door sensors were very loose especially the monitor sensor, so I took electrical tape and taped all three to keep them from moving when opening and shutting the door and that seemed to work so far. Will keep you posted.
Great video on this most common problem. In my case, the switch holder was slightly moving and making one switch break contact if you gently pulled on the door, blowing the fuse since the other two switches were still made. If you notice on the switch holder piece, there is a place for a third screw by the lower switch. I added a screw here and it took out the excess play and now works as intended. It sure looks like it was made for a third screw as the case has the hole also, GE just cut corners and left it out.
I'm going to try this.... I have been dealing with this issue for 2 years. I just got a call at work that they blew the fuse again and I'm going to have to fix when I get home😅. This is so frustrating. The fuse blue because It's Thanksgiving and we have family in town that don't know you can't pull the microwave before the timer reaches zero lol. For me if I just let it run its cycle it will always be fine but if you touch the door at all while it's running you're either going to trip the breaker or blow the fuse.
@jeffdanger12, LOL I found exactly the same situation, but on a Bosch microwave. Apparently the manufacturers ALL cut corners - and this is precisely the area where you NEED everything to be mounted firmly. I too added a third screw, even though my problem was a bad switch AND a worn mounting bracket. Flex is to be avoided however / whenever possible.
testing switches is: 1) unplug outlet; 2) unplug connectors of the three door switches; 3) then jump both top switch connectors, and do the same with the bottom switch connectors, but don’t do it in the center ones; 4) Replace fuse. Put a water cup inside the MW, connect outlet plug, press the 30 secs .. If it works replace switches and switches base. Note: In a closed door, the top and the bottom switches contacts are closed, and the center one is opened. In an opened door, only the center one is closed.. See the schematic.. Check MW door screen for MW waves leakage..
Great video, thanks!!
Thank you!!! Very helpful!!
OK. I replaced the latch board with a new one ($55.00 on Amazon). I took out the old one , and it showed very significant wear notches in the plastic from the door latch hooks.
I’d seen on other videos that this wear is sufficient to make the switches engage out of sequence, tripping the house breaker and eventually blowing one of the three door switches.
In my case it was the middle, normally closed one. Other people have tried to shim the worn areas of the old latch board or the switches themselves with aluminum tape.
With the new latch board, everything seems tight and the door can be opened while cooking, without tripping the breaker.
So I’m thumbs up on the new latch board. If it wears down again in four years, I’ll replace it. Beats the hell out of buying a new oven.
I'm going through something similar. The fuse blew just as you tried to open the door. It happened once and I replaced the fuse and it worked for a couple of weeks, then it blew again without touching it. I found the monitor switch was frozen in the out position. I think that your problem was a flakey switch that with the slightest door movement made it change. The frame that holds the switches was probably OK. But since the keepers broke that hold the switches, you had to replace it as well. Just as well.
Thanks a lot!!
If the fuse holder is not holding the fuse well, it can cause the same issues. t starts a spark between the fuse connector and the fuse from being loose, then that pops the fuse. Tighten the holders that hold in the fuses and try
I'm convinced that GE makes crappy products that fail quickly. I have a Panasonic microwave that survived several moves and long term abuse. It finally bit the dust after 25 years.
So… do you think it was the switches or the door latch/plastic piece? I’m having the same problem with the exact same microwave. Thanks for the video, saved me a bunch of trouble. I’m going to let you know if the switches alone will solve it. Get back with you soon.
Okay, so I changed the switches and it’s still tripping the breaker. After looking at more videos I’ve found that the door latch is worn and the latch pins aren’t hitting the switches correctly. I held up on the door and it works so I’m ordering that dang plastic piece now.
Did a new switch bracket fix it for you? I’m in the same position.
Yes! I just got it back working yesterday. It was the plastic piece.
You have to take the little movable piece out of the old one though.
@@DksPantherPride cool. I may try replacing that as well if it isn’t too expensive.
you got the correct answer, the door latch is usually not engaged properly at opening or closing the door specially if someone is putting some pressure to it or dragging it, that cause the worn out and consequently the closing on the switches is not even causing the switches close at a different time and blowing the fuse. Another thing is when you grab the door, always do it from the middle of the handle , that way you are exercising the same strength or pressure in all the switches
I replaced the latch plate, and sensors. SEEMED to work okay for a day, then fuse blew again. Turns out, the black latch hooks on the door were worn, which threw off the timing of when the three sensors are activated. To save money AND time, I recommend replacing the $6 latch before buying the latch plate. It's cheap, and you don't have to fuss with all the wiring stuff... just the door. It was a little tricky getting the door apart. I recommend taking it off, and putting in a bench (easy). The insulation part came off fairly easy, the the next layer took some time.I'm going to return the expensive latch plate, but I'll keep all the sensors... too much of a hassle for the money to take-off.
Good to know
Just want everyone to know you should manually discharge that high voltage capacitor- some are self-discharged within 30-minutes; but we’re talking about up to 2000 volts - so be very careful 🙏🏽
Yep. It's the worn latch-plate that you can see when you open the door. I took off the control panel, then closed the door to see where the door latches were hitting. Sure enough, the worn top latch would not do the job of pushing the latch up enough to actuate the top sensor. I just bought a whole new latch plate. Too bad I can't load a picture here, because I was able to show what I'm talking about. 5/7 Update: fuse blew a day later. Although the latch plate is worn where the latch hits it, that was not the cause of the problem. See my post today.
my door switch points were welded together. This blew the breaker. I was able to use a sharp drywall knife tap with a hammer on the joint and split the switch, easily saw the points stuck together, cut apart, might not last but works. And hoping to find a parts microwave and steal a switch, I think they are likely all about the same.
You say it was manufactured in 2013, "there's the model number," but where is there? I would like to know if we have same model. I have same looking model but a year or 2 newer. Did that troubleshooting directions come with ur unit? I have the same one and my fuse keeps blowing. Seems like when I open the door after running. How do you pull those door switches and or test?
One thing I noticed is that never attempt to open a door on a microwave in operation because the risk of receiving a radiation in your body is very bad and dangerous, so it is better let it go to the end of cycle and then proceed to pop up the door and diagnose the problem, which I think in this case is associated with the housing for switches or the switches themselves due to a misalign on the door or bad switch usually the monitor or the wires in contact with those switches
40 year tech here. Yes, I have seen that top door switch go bad and blow the main fuse.
Keys bord are not working what i must do may replace it?
I wish you had taken the old switches apart. My guess is you would find they have burnt contacts inside the switches causing too much draw through the fuse.
I put a new capacitor in my ge microwave and turned it on and just lost all power and won't turn on now and it's the exact same capacitor.
Why is that you think?
Did you check to make sure you had the polarity of the capacitor the right way round, it's easy to get it wrong.
@@lorus511 thanks for your feedback!!!
please also check that one line from the capacitor holds the wire alone from the transformer andon teh othar side goes one ewire from the magnetron and the diode@@MOAON_AABE
I did replace all the switches. They breaker blew anyway. I'm on to the new latch board. We'll see.
Interesting I would like to know your findings. Because I wasn't exactly sure what my problem was.
Might be the thermal fuse