I decided to skin balsa wood for wind generator parts around the coils and tail fins. It doesn't even need to look polished its for encapsulating and protecting electrical components and holding them in place.
great vìdeo this has been such a great help ❤ im doing a big carbon progect on interior trim and it has factory aluminium skin on the door trim should i strip it off or lay the carbon fabric over the factory skin ?
@BasinMotorsports okay thanks I'll give it a sand and scuff with a stanley and wasnt to sure on the matter as you can actually see the aluminium is bent over a plastic door trim 🤦♂️ the car is a audi 8p 3door and thank you for your fast responce 🤝👌
Thank you for doing this video. I've messed with skinning on/off for a decade and wished I'd had this video! But, like you, learned from my mistakes. VERY accurate list! I still struggle with thin spots on vertical parts of the the part. Would be curious to see your thoughts of using something like a rotocast machine to allow the resin to evenly coat the part. It seems possible, just hard to drop a couple hundred on the machine to test. Thoughts?
Rotocast machines typically spin to use centrifugal force to fill the outside of a mold for hollow objects (cylinders, bottles, chocolate Easter bunnies, etc.). How would a roto-machine get resin on vertical surfaces to stay? If I did the parts over I would probably just keep brushing the resin on in the difficult areas until it started to cure and stay. A total PITA to do, but it may slowly build the thickness enough.
Hi! I follow during very years. im 20 and im starting at Mechanic! I Have a question if u please can answer would be great! So, I want to do a complete overhaul of the car, is there any specific order to do it? For example (1st oil filter, 2nd engine oil, 3rd spark plugs, etc)? Thanks!
Let's say you are doing a hood and its 55" by 75" and you only can get two seperate sheets to get full coverage , can you butt joint two pieces or what would be the best way to do so ?
You can butt them together, but I would overlap them a small amount so there is no spacing between the pieces. The hard part will be aligning the weave pattern between pieces if the visual alignment matters to you.
Good video I wish I watched this before I did it. I screwed up 50 different things on mine. Doing a gun stock a very expensive gun has first project was stupid
Mistakes happen. I've had plenty on all of my projects, but with every one I learned more. Can the stock be fixed or can you just keep working it more and more? There is a carbon wrapped gun stock video on the Easy Composites channel that I watched a couple times. It may offer suggestions for yours.
What if I start getting pinholes after the first 2coats of resin ? After sanding I still have pin holes you think adding 3 coats of resin will fill in those holes ?
I had decent results with filling the pin holes with more resin. See what it looks like with the first coat. I found that applying a little heat with a heat gun helped the resin flow into holes better.
Hello. I need a little information... how do we get the carbon to bond to the polypropylene or interior plastic ??? I cant figure it out brother. Thank you i really hope you could answer this! Thank you
Hi Chet - You'll want to hatch the edges and scuff the plastic to give the resin a good surface to bond to. Be sure to wrap the edges as plastic and resin tend to expand and contract differently and they will eventually lose their bond. My other composite videos show how I hatch and prep plastics.
You put down an epoxy base/bonding coat. You wait for the bonding coat to tack and use that as an “adhesive” to press the fabric onto the part. The first coat of clear to “wet out” the fabric serves two purposes. 1. It locks the fiber strands in place for following coats. 2. It chemically bonds to the base coat so that the clear is chemically monolithic with the base coat. Also, if you’re doing wet layup like this, the key is to use multiple thin coats instead of thick coats.
I decided to skin balsa wood for wind generator parts around the coils and tail fins. It doesn't even need to look polished its for encapsulating and protecting electrical components and holding them in place.
I like the idea!
great vìdeo this has been such a great help ❤
im doing a big carbon progect on interior trim and it has factory aluminium skin on the door trim should i strip it off or lay the carbon fabric over the factory skin ?
I would scuff the surface with sand paper and go over the trim.
@BasinMotorsports okay thanks I'll give it a sand and scuff with a stanley and wasnt to sure on the matter as you can actually see the aluminium is bent over a plastic door trim 🤦♂️ the car is a audi 8p 3door
and thank you for your fast responce 🤝👌
Great video for a first timer like me. Thx.
Thanks for this. It takes time to master. Appreciate it. ❤
Thank you for doing this video. I've messed with skinning on/off for a decade and wished I'd had this video! But, like you, learned from my mistakes. VERY accurate list! I still struggle with thin spots on vertical parts of the the part. Would be curious to see your thoughts of using something like a rotocast machine to allow the resin to evenly coat the part. It seems possible, just hard to drop a couple hundred on the machine to test. Thoughts?
Rotocast machines typically spin to use centrifugal force to fill the outside of a mold for hollow objects (cylinders, bottles, chocolate Easter bunnies, etc.). How would a roto-machine get resin on vertical surfaces to stay?
If I did the parts over I would probably just keep brushing the resin on in the difficult areas until it started to cure and stay. A total PITA to do, but it may slowly build the thickness enough.
Hi! I follow during very years. im 20 and im starting at Mechanic! I Have a question if u please can answer would be great! So, I want to do a complete overhaul of the car, is there any specific order to do it? For example (1st oil filter, 2nd engine oil, 3rd spark plugs, etc)? Thanks!
Maintenance is always a good idea. Oil changes, tires, and anything to make the car drive able is a good place to start.
Let's say you are doing a hood and its 55" by 75" and you only can get two seperate sheets to get full coverage , can you butt joint two pieces or what would be the best way to do so ?
You can butt them together, but I would overlap them a small amount so there is no spacing between the pieces. The hard part will be aligning the weave pattern between pieces if the visual alignment matters to you.
Good video I wish I watched this before I did it. I screwed up 50 different things on mine. Doing a gun stock a very expensive gun has first project was stupid
Mistakes happen. I've had plenty on all of my projects, but with every one I learned more. Can the stock be fixed or can you just keep working it more and more? There is a carbon wrapped gun stock video on the Easy Composites channel that I watched a couple times. It may offer suggestions for yours.
Good information
What if I start getting pinholes after the first 2coats of resin ? After sanding I still have pin holes you think adding 3 coats of resin will fill in those holes ?
I had decent results with filling the pin holes with more resin. See what it looks like with the first coat. I found that applying a little heat with a heat gun helped the resin flow into holes better.
yeah i didnt realize it was gonna be so itchy until it was tooooo late
It sneaks up on you.
Hello. I need a little information... how do we get the carbon to bond to the polypropylene or interior plastic ??? I cant figure it out brother. Thank you i really hope you could answer this! Thank you
Hi Chet - You'll want to hatch the edges and scuff the plastic to give the resin a good surface to bond to. Be sure to wrap the edges as plastic and resin tend to expand and contract differently and they will eventually lose their bond. My other composite videos show how I hatch and prep plastics.
You put down an epoxy base/bonding coat. You wait for the bonding coat to tack and use that as an “adhesive” to press the fabric onto the part. The first coat of clear to “wet out” the fabric serves two purposes. 1. It locks the fiber strands in place for following coats. 2. It chemically bonds to the base coat so that the clear is chemically monolithic with the base coat. Also, if you’re doing wet layup like this, the key is to use multiple thin coats instead of thick coats.
Great video
Cheers
More like avoid wrapping carbon fiber at all
Definitely an art to it.
Can't avoid everything that's challenging