Stackable Generator Assembly Guide
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ธ.ค. 2023
- This video is an assembly guide to building a 3D printed version of my Stackable Generator, originally featured in my previous video:
• Stackable Generator
It’s intended to serve as a companion to the STL files, which are free to download at the links below:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:638...
www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/56hms5...
Serpentine Coil Winder:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:594...
400 watts from a circuit board coil:
• Mad scientist's homest...
Below are links to the exact parts and supplies I used for building and assembling my Stackable Generator featured in this and my previous video.
I am an affiliate of Amazon and eBay, and I tend to purchase most of my supplies there.
If you’d prefer to pick up your parts from different suppliers I tried to list the size and specifications of everything in the video, but am also providing the links to save you the time of having to look everything up separately online.
The magnets for the rotors:
www.magnet4less.com/n52-neody...
23AWG Magnetic Wire, 10 lb:
ebay.us/LPQURH
800mm and 500mm Rotor and Frame steel shafts:
amzn.to/3RBHGxc
Flange Coupling Connectors:
amzn.to/3v3Xrp1
Shaft Lock Collars:
amzn.to/41rzcNm
Pillow Block Bearings:
amzn.to/48nr1Uz
Round Spinner Bearings:
ebay.us/KadERm
10lb Weights used for Flywheels:
amzn.to/46ZU4N7
Hatchbox 3D Printer Filiment:
amzn.to/482KjPv
Diodes for Bridge Rectifiers:
amzn.to/3Nx4Kf8
16V 83F Capacitor Bank:
amzn.to/3TrvMsb
50V 1000UF Capacitors:
amzn.to/3tqNd1u
1000W 50A Buck Converter Module:
ebay.us/ojvww7 - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
You have a good heart and you are a good man and this is the way to go. It's the only way to go with all the corruption that would otherwise put this underground.
Thanks. That's very kind of you to say.
I'm a long time subscriber of yours but might not of seen every recent video. Thank you for all your hard work. I have an idea that exploits magnetic movement in the context of three dimensions as opposed to the two dimensions that are normal with most rotor/stator assemblys. @@Motionmagnetics
@@916619jg Thanks for sticking with me for so long. Sounds like you are thinking like Howard Johnson with that idea.
Thank you for your generous contribution to the maker space community. I tend to make my contribution quite soon as well.
Thanks. It's nice to see so many people contributing.
I am so glad that you are back with new material Sir. I look forward to learn all I can from you and your videos fella. You made my day for sure.
Have a Happy Holidays and a super New Year too. God bless and peace fella. vf
Thank you, and the same to you, my friend.
I have been thinking about a project like this for a few years. That is awesome! Thank you so much for the video and for sharing your work. You earn my sub. Can’t wait to see the updates and will at some point attempt a build as well.
Thanks for watching, and for the kind words. Glad to have you aboard. I'm 3D printing a new gear system for the generator right now. Looking forward to being able to test and share it with everyone. If you build one I hope you share a video of it. I'd love to see how it comes out.
Looks great so far. Looking forward to the completed build :D
Thanks, so am I.
Guys, I am from Africa and I follow such videos and I love this channel and I am very interested in perpetual motion engines. I designed my own engine in a new and not familiar way and I have not seen anyone in the world who has made an engine similar to what I designed... but my problem is that I stopped at the design and assembly stage only in Solid Works. I do not have the capabilities to make it and make it real... Please, if there is anyone who can help me, I will be very grateful. Thank you.😊
I have been working on a mechanical gravity battery for a few years now but never worked out the electrical end. This actually makes my mechanical concept feasible and the motivation to finish it.
Good deal! Glad to hear it.
nicely done, thanks
If there is magnet pulling another magnet and if put iron between those magnets. Both magnets are atracted to the iron, so both magnets stops, right. But if i pulling iron with magnet and put iron between those, the moving/pulled iron will continue moving if the canceling is made just right moment. when its comes to sticky point. Luling motor works like this.
looks good and solid.
Thankyou, looking forward to assemble the stack generator.
You're welcome. They are fun to put together.
A precisely thought-out design. I'm curious about its performance under load
Thanks. I'll post a video once I have everything set up and can give it a proper test.
This is great. For the magnets needing to be closer to the stators, I found that I can get them significantly closer by stacking them beyond the threshold of the print, or by having one extra magnet, and offsetting them in the print by half a magnet depth. This way the print can be the appropriate thickness, but the magnets jut out enough to be closer to the stator on each side.
Thanks. That's an interesting approach.
Brilliant,Thank for sharing this information, and all the best for the future looking forward to seeing your projects .
Wow ! Very nicely done! I watch a lot of these types of videos. Robert Murray Smith im sure youve seen. Thanks for the info
Thanks. The serpentine coil came from Robert Murray Smith. I credited him in my previous video.
Would be great to tilt / angle the magnets so they build a toroidal flow down the stack for further reduced friction and a little rectified force vector for rotational influence.
Fantastic design.
Interesting idea. Thanks.
What axis angle would be sufficient for this? What, if any impact would such a modification have on output other than differences from the reduced friction itself?
@@joes144 Follow the golden ration… allowing for a full rotation around the axis for each curve / line of magnets from top to bottom of the generator. Magnets can be oriented to create a steady flow from top to bottom, essentially physically copying the field expression captured when you freeze a magnet in water. Have the polarity such that the generator never sticks into one place but wants to finish a full cycle rotation once started.
@@meh11235 Interesting, however I'm having difficulty visualizing what you mean. Are you suggesting canting the magnets within the rotor such that the angle of each magnet can be set same/different, or are you suggesting a rotor with angled edge such that all magnets are at the same angle relative to the coil?
@@michaelh.9243 a mix of both, magnets set to same angle within the rotor and opposing inverted coils or stationary magnets between coils to cancel the magnetic drag that builds up by the coils being activated by the passing magnets. using the S side of the magnet or -coils for addition electrical force vector and drag negation.
I appreciate you!!! I’m making 1 as I text but nothing as close as this 1! Once again, thanks & for the detailed explanation!
Awesome Build! I'm definitely going to build something similar. Thanks for sharing everything open source!
Thank you! Send me a link if you post a video of your own version later. I'd love to see what you come up with.
Very nice. Great job of construction. So neat and tidy. Both those stl links not working for me unfortunately. Will try them again tomorrow. 👍
Thanks. I just changed the link. They should also be up on Thingiverse in another day or so.
Have you thought about and/or calculated how much heat will be pumped into those plastic prints and winding tape at steady state operation? Been loving the design so far and very curious to see how you handle cooling, or if it turns out to be a non-issue.
Saw your comment that the holes in the rotors get a bit of airflow in there which is interesting.
Cool stuff!
I haven't, but we'll all find out when I'm able to get everything put together and give it a proper test. I did forget to mention in the video that I added a drop or two of superglue to each strip of electrical tape to keep it secured.
Thanks!
Золоті руки, світла голова, велике серце! Дякую тобі чоловіче! Нажаль самому таке неможливо виготовити. Потрібно спеціальне обладнання і знання.🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦
These videos are so kick ass
Thanks! Glad you're enjoying them.
I have a 4x4' cnc router that is absolutely chomping at the bit to build one of these. Look forward to the followup video with some power data!
Send me a link to a video of it if you do. I'd love to see what you come up with.
I'm designing and building the gear assembly now, so that should be the subject of my next video.
Great work!
Thank you!
nice
Great video! You are awesome 👏🏻 thank you for making this open source
You're welcome, and thank you.
Really well explained well done and think i will use the stackable generator design you have with something Robert Murray talked about .. one thing i wanted to see more of was the wiring up of them system .. i seen previous video and just needed to know how diode goes to capacitor and capacitor to mppt would be a nice idea for future video maybe 👍
Thank you on behalf of everyone for sharing these files.
I look forward to building and sharing my experience with this.
You're welcome. I look forward to hearing from you about your experience once you do.
Here in Alaska. Seriously looking at Stirling engines for my application. Would love any input on that.
That's a great way to go. They've been around for over 100 years and are very reliable.
I believe you just saved humanity man.❤ Yildiz would be proud wherever he is.
You're overly kind. I just hope people find it of use, in some small way.
I haven't heard any updates about him in quite some time.
@@Motionmagnetics Yeah he just faded away. Stay safe and be careful out there bro, may the light protect you. Amin.
@@DejiAremu Thanks, I appreciate it.
Fantastic and BIG thanks!
I'm going to make one and test a simple cycloidal gear drive. Will share that if successful.
Just wondering if the 400w circuit board link is correct?
Thanks! I'd love to see what you come up with. I'm curious about the circuit board coil as well. I couldn't find a place to order it directly or I'd pick one up and test it myself.
Go go go!
If you add propeller like car alternator both side ir wil keep the coils cooler for longer time since your magnet nad coil center area are open. Like the setup.👍
Possibly. You can't tell by watching the video but there's a bit of airflow from the openings in the rotors and coil assembly that creates a fan-like effect, and you can feel air blowing lightly through the assembly.
Hey man hope you good , hope the project is coming along nicely... can't wait to see more about it
Thanks. I hope all is well with you as well.
It's moving along. I'd prefer more quickly, but forward momentum is always a good thing.
@@Motionmagnetics sounds perfect...do you have WhatsApp or telegram?
This is amazing!! Thank you so much for sharing.
Have you ever seen the liberty engine? What are your thoughts about it?
Thanks again!
Thank you. I have. I like the way it's designed, but doubt that it works as described.
Pretty cool design, i might make a go of it.
Using something like petg instead of pla would be good to eliminate warpage and the deterioration that pla gets when there's moisture or uv rays on it. It's also much stronger.
Sounds good. Post your results, if you do. I'd love to see what you come up with.
There are some very interesting videos explaining Tesla's electric motors that show how precision alignment of coils and magnets are the key to high efficiency.
Very flat coils and precisely positioned magnets allow the magnets to pass much closer to the coils thus increasing their pickup ability or in the case of a motor rather than a generator it increases their exertion ability.
Nice design new sub here your doing a great job keep up the good work
Thank you, much appreciated!
Hi firstly well done and thank you for the file share...I have been Checking your channel for updates for almost 2 weeks now ...please do post an update soon and again thank you for the content
I'm working on a gear system right now and have been doing a lot of tweaking and adjusting. I also had to switch some materials to Cut the cost until I have things more fully worked out. I don't have an ETA on my next video update yet, but things are moving forward.
@@Motionmagnetics great work man, I'm going to try replicate this system aswell ..in your next video please include the RPMs ,voltage of the whole system as well as amps produced ...it sure would help with calculations
Great design, had a thought that perhaps using the frame you could make a jig holding a blade that you could use to face the stators so you could get closer to the coils, also once all the stators are joined you could balance them as one unit with weights etc on both ends.
Obviously while printing you may need to print extra perimeters to make up for facing some of it off and it won't be the best finish but looks aren't important.
Awesome work though.
Thanks, and thanks for the suggestion.
This is great thanks so much for your clear explanations and putting up the files. Would you be willing to do some customization for a flat rate?
I was thinking adding a wined up spring to and 2 one way ballbaring
Thank you kind sir! I have really enjoyed watching your videos, and I appreciate your kindness and generosity in sharing your work.
Keep it up man! You’re going to change the world!
Thank you. I appreciate the kind words.
Hey man hope you're doing well! How progress coming? Can't wait to see this as a gravity generator. Also if you manage to make an efficient compression system, you could use buoyant gas to lift the weights, compress the gas to allow the weights to fall, and decompress to reset. Maybe even gain back energy from the pressure when inflating/decompressing. Like a gravity piston. Anyways all the best! ❤
Yes, I'm good, thanks. Hope you are as well.
I have a machinist friend who is building the main drive shaft for the gear system. He doing this around his job, so the process isn't as expedient as one would like. Hopefully, he's finished in a week or two and then I can get back to testing the gearbox that I've already built. I should have a new video up soon after.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I keep thinking about this video and can't wait to see an update. I was going to print one myself, but my build volume on my Prusa i3 is too small ): Would love to see an update to how to make it gravity powered, as that is what I've been wanting to do when I do get the chance to build it. Let us know when you get an update, thanks!
Thanks. The gears are pretty time-consuming to print, but I'm working on it.
This looks so cool and I’m planning to build one for myself. I noticed you are printing with 100% infill, have you considered or tested 75-85%? I have tested on smaller parts that are under less stress but they held up better than 100% infill. My thoughts are to build the structural end caps out of aluminum and print the middle parts @ 80%. Thanks for the work and I appreciate any thoughts you have.
So how do the surpintine style windings work pound for pound of copper? Are you 'just' saving yourself work or are they better electric producers?
I haven't tested them against different styles of copper windings. I picked them mostly for how easy they are to build, knowing nearly anyone could make their own. Most of what I'm doing with this design is streamlining it to make it simple and easy for anyone to build.
How long does it run before stopping? Inquiring minds want to know!
It isn't connected to anything yet. So probably 5 min from the quick hand spin I gave it.
How much would you charge for a kit with all parts cut including all one needs?
I would purchase
People will buy it.
When I get everything built and properly tested I may offer kits that would be made with a CNC machine, for greater accuracy and speed of build. It would take too long to 3D print kits with the old slow 3D printer I currently own.
Sorry, youtube doesn't have a PM function.
Happy New Year!
I believe in you.
Thanks. Happy New Year!
Have you considered using one way bearings between the drive gear mechanism and the generator shaft? As to be able to wind the gravity battery while not interfering in the rotation of the generator
Yes.
I assumed that kind of scenario, and had been thinking again about escapements. What if you used an actuator that would click the escapement forward (rather than a pendulum), based on the current RPM? This would then control the addition of energy to the flywheel when it was called for.
It might also be cukoo-clock like to have a 2nd smaller weight which can be used to simply maintain RPM when there is little draw. Making the larger weight almost like a startup capacitor.
Just saying that actually sparks another idea. This is big picture stuff though..
How about an electronic system of robotic weight selection. There is an advantage to this rather than simply increasing the size of a single weight..
If you are selecting weights from a structure that would be designed to be easily expanded, increasing the number of weights in the system, would increase the battery capacity without requiring a change to the basic generator and flywheel setup.
Once your basic generation system is designed and printed for your power use requirements, the capacity of the battery could be expanded then, to whatever degree is practical for your input energy.. So add more solar, add another weight..
It is a very interesting job. Im on a personal project to build my own small wind generator and I was looking for generator designs. Your looks really interesting. Would it work as a wind generator? Im not really an electric guy, so my ignoraqnt question is: how much power would this design generate in smaller sizes (voltage?) How much force would be needed to move it?
I think your creation is excellent and intend to replicate it myself. One question I am struggling with is why round magnets are used? If I understand correctly from analysing Robert Murray-Smith videos, the actual electromagnetic induction happens in a 90 degree angle from the movement. So he explains why and where serpentine coil works. So I am wondering if rectangular magnets centered as a daisy would improve your design? Do you have any thoughts or knowledge on this matter? Thank you very much and I look forward to your next video.
Question: How does your generator work? I.E. What is driving it? How is it rotating?
3 phase stator is best
An engineering observation.
The inner screws, although should suffer zero vibration, might work themselves loose. Use lock-nuts or a double nut arrangement to lock them in place.
Cheaper is a lock thread on the thread.
Cheers 🇬🇧
You're not wrong. I had one of the rotor screws fall out the other day. Granted, it was one I hadn't tightened, but better to be safe than sorry.
Thanks!
2 Questions:
1. What's your input compared to your output?
2. Have you ran this standing straight up? A spinning weight is almost weightless when spun horizontal to the ground
I'm setting it up to work with a gear system connected to a weight. I've only tested it with a pull cord and a hand crank so far. I wish I had shown the hand crank in the videos, as I've had it up to 184v.
I haven't tried it horizontally, but that's not a bad suggestion. Thanks.
@@Motionmagnetics Standing straight up with a geared or pully system attached to a wind turbine would be awesome too. This is great, will be testing out when I get time
@@vintasalo Thanks. Send me a link if you get a chance to test one out and decide to post a video.
Whats you email address? @@Motionmagnetics
I don’t this is just a mere curiosity. This design may be the key to making your own power at home using a water wheel or steam turbine (Tesla turbine, powered by solar collector and sand battery). Think about a long term grid-down situation.
The only recommendation I have is using aluminum hardware to further decrease magnetic drag.
this is awesome generator, or at least at first glance, so I tried looking for at least similar designs and I found almost none accept like those two stator ones, so that begs the question, why (or I can't search is also an option :D) ? I'm not really that sure how this design would be flawed compared to the wider ones (altho my knowledge of building a generator is not the highest so if anyone knows any disadvantages please tell), maybe it's just the 'go vertical instead of horizontal' idea. very interesting :) would love to see some experiments with this, cuz it is exiting to watch to say the least
I'm not sure why there aren't more similar designs out there. It just occurred to me when I switched from using coils with metal cores to an axial flux setup that I could stack several of them together to increase the power output. Multiple people have commented that they have thought of something similar, but most of them haven't tried building one.
i still think this same style with different windings would be an over the top motor , ie every disk is equal to 2 lines of force , ie a standard motor has only 1 line of force, but a stackable motor has as many lines of force as you have disks, meaning more force out per volt used
You could very well be right.
Are the stages offset by one magnet? Curious about the alignment mark.
They are aligned from rotor to rotor with each north from one rotor facing a south on the next, and vice versa.
do you have a target RPM based on the coil arrangement you have chosen?
At least 200RPM, but I'm testing it to run higher.
For 3d printing , you went with FDM printing or SLA printing? SLA seems too costly
Agreed. I kept it simple and went with FDM.
Whats was the halbach magnet arrangement? There was another video with a diagram showing 2 stators and 3 rotor plates acually 4 and mono polar plates facing inwards and 2 stators. (3 because 2of the rotors aretogeter facing away towards their own Coil on each side esentialiy containing the field in the house)
Not sure which video that was?
@@Motionmagnetics yeah i think i got It though the stacked halbach disks Will auto alighn. but for More contex log ago before youbuilt anything we were analizing the benefit of halbach. And you said that the wáy to get moreefficiency was to stack the disks with2 stators and 2 rotors in the middle. And you said "like inthis diagram" at the Time we werent aware of the múltiple stators and rotor consept
@@user-kj7vr8tt8p Hmm, well if I used a Halbach array with this design I'd put the coils around the rotor and place the magnets in a Halbach configuration on the edge of the rotor so it would pass by the coils but still be stackable.
@@Motionmagnetics right... I think i didnt make my self clear sorry. And thanks for the responce. Its a axial Flux. If only could draw It.
Might not have been your video.
You mention chevron shaped gears, but surely these would suffer the same looseness, lash as straight cut gears, helical cut gears with a thrust bearing maybe preferable. These would be quieter, less probe to damage from snatching as the load is applied and removed either end of the gear chain. Also, since you have a 3D printer and imagination is your only limitation, wave you considered V or multiple V pulleys (car alternator), or crowned flat pulleys and flat belts (old industrial drive or steam machinery?
I'm mostly going from the experiences of people I follow who have posted their experiences with different gear types. I'm currently testing a belted drive.
In regard to the “rotor alignment bars”…. I wonder if they will pickup any of the magnetic field, potentially reducing the output of the generator. Maybe not, but I’d love it if you replaced them with wood lol. I feel like it’ll make a difference.
It's possible. Wood is less sturdy though. I suppose they could be aluminum, but then that could cause eddy currents.
The magnet faces are not pointed at them directly at the bars. Is there some effect from the metal? I'm sure, but I think it's negligible.
@@Motionmagnetics I imagine that under normal conditions it would be negligible. However, given that it is not the most efficient design, aiming to keep it simple and easily made at home), maybe it would be worth a try? Also, I can’t remember the term for it, but metals that aren’t magnetic do tend to be influenced by magnetic fields… maybe it’s specifically electromagnetic fields, either way a quick google will explain better than me anyway. There is actually a repelling force instead of an attractive one. In regards to the strength of the wood, 8mm wood rods should be plenty strong enough. I have forgotten how many you used in the rotors, but >3 and it should be enough. There isn’t much space that isn’t supported, and the load on the rotors should be relatively even front to back, so there wouldn’t be any twisting. There shouldn’t even be any side loading when the generator is actually spinning, thanks to the wonders of centrifugal force. It wouldn’t work as your MAIN rod, due to the weights. But your main rod has very little rotational mass if you consider the rod with other components removed. So even if wood was strong enough, it wouldn’t change much of anything replacing the main rod. Check out the numbers regarding the strength of balsa wood. Really, if the wood is decent quality, I think some pine dowels would be good enough. Unfortunately they’re sold in standard sizes at the hardware stores. Something like .0025 inches small than 8mm. For straightness, cutting a larger rod down to size would be best. Short of that, I guess balsa wood does tend to stay straighter than pine. Sorry for the essay. I have a semi-kinda almost similar project I’m working on.
@@thephilosopher13 I hope you'll post your results if you are working on something similar. I'd love to see how it comes out.
Thank you thank you thank you!
You're welcome welcome welcome!
In your next video please can you share the total voltage made my your system as well as the amps ...at what rpm
I plan to do that once I've tested it with a gear system and load.
@@Motionmagnetics your a rockstar...
it looks like the coil is between the N and S magnets of the rotors where attracted to each other that means you are giving the winding a N and S at the same time. Not good in my opinion as you are canceling out the flux, you only want a N or a S going through the winding at one time not both even if it is from opposite ends. You would get double the power if the rotors repelled each other so you can fully saturate the winding from both sides with a N then a S so the rotors should repel each other not attract. IMHO you would get at least double maybe 4 times more output. :Love you brother thanks for doing great things. Bob
Good to hear from you, brother!
I designed the generator to work as a stacked version of an axial flux generator, partly to cut down on the drag you get from Iron core generators at lower RPMs, but also to make it scalable to whatever your output power needs are.
As I'm sure you know, the iron core used in standard generators is needed to produce both poles through the coil by completing the magnetic path, whereas axial flux generators place a south pole on one side of the coil and a north on the other side to create the same effect. It requires more magnets, but it cuts down on the drag. That's important to the final design, as it will employ a series of gears connected to a weight. So the less drag, the better.
I'm unaware of any axial flux generators that push like poles at each other through the coils and would think that would require sturdier material than the 3D-printed rotors I'm using.
Have you experimented with that orientation?
yes I have found that in my experiments using steal wheels from exercise bikes and large ring magnets and large coils that two magnets of different poles is not as good as one magnet on one wheel that flips polarity what you have there IMHO would be best suited as a motor. I could be wrong as my coils were wound around and around, not using the staggered method of winding as you are. Anyway brother a am happy to see your works and watch your videos.
@@sonsoftesladotcom8234 Do you have a video up of one of those experiments? I'd love to see what you came up with.
Thanks for the kind words.
Always great to hear from you, brother!
Does it work by itself, like a Perendev motor ?
No, it's designed to be connected to something like a weight with gears, or wind turbine.
I have one question, how useful is it? Or is just a toy?
We'll find out together. I plan to keep working on it and posting updates until I have a finished version. It's definitely not a toy, but it's also more of a prototype. Once I have everything worked out I plan to put one together with a CNC machine.
@@Motionmagnetics That machine looks amazing, thanks.
If I could ask. What is the average voltage as well as current that you are capable of putting out now? Cause I might test this design myself when I get the time.
Also, thank you very much for putting all of this out there. I am trying to make my own home generator for exercise and this might make things a lot easier for me.
I haven't connected it to anything to get an accurate reading, but just giving it a quick spin it puts out between 60-100V. Not positive on the amps yet, but I believe it's around 5. I'll be able to get some more clear numbers once I set up the gear system.
You're very welcome. I think it might work great for that application.
@@Motionmagnetics understood. Thanks again.
@@MotionmagneticsHey man, sorry to trouble you again, but I'm actually trying to make your version of this now and so far things are going along really well, assembly wise.
However, at this point of the video ( 2:37) , how much of a distance was there between the 2 rods within that 2 x 4?
I just need to get a somewhat accurate length for a test spool of yarn before i actually use wire.
@@garybrown2039 No problem. I just taped the ends of the 59-inch string together and pulled the pegs snugly inside of the loop of the string and screwed them roughly centered to the 4x4. Depending on the size of the pegs you use it will vary somewhat from the distance of my pegs on the 4x4, but that doesn't matter as long as you have the correct length of the string formed into a loop and it's snug against your pegs.
@@Motionmagnetics understood. Thank you. I think i got it to work because the string somewhat fits in the 3d printed part. Its just a little loose but i think the wire will be fine.
YOU MAD LAD 😂😂😂
Would love to give it a spin :) but the download links aren't working mate!
I just switched the link. Hopefully, that fixes it.
@@Motionmagnetics yup that did it thankyou, thingiverse is still showing 404 but the file transfer link works, now I just need to start buying the bits!
Hi I like the idea of the stacking generator, just what I'm looking for my hydroelectric boat , is there anyone out there that could make this for me ?
I'm trying to make an imbalanced motor using mercury tilt switches. Induction can move mercury and create a weight imbalance where you want. Added benefit is the mercury trips its switch right when you want it. If the induction is run by computer, you can continually advance or retard the induction, creating a swing like resonance.
Could you pleae repost here the link to the PCB stator wind generator video you mentioned? The link in the description leads to something else.
Which part of the video did I mention that in?
This is great! Definitely going on my build list once I get finished with all the Christmas presents. Curious if my Ugrinski can handle it. 😅
I like the use of the turntable for the serpentine wrapping. That's going to speed things up.
I've also been thinking about doing a stacked static motor. This looks like a good design to modify for that
Good deal. Share the video once you do. I'd love to see how it turns out.
My freind i was hoping that you post the stl file of gravity generator
This actually is the gravity generator, I've just adapted the design. I'll share the STL files for the gear system later. I'm in the process of designing and testing a new version of them right now.
@@Motionmagneticsi understand you my freind but this new design in this video i can't build it because there is some material does not exist in my country , all i need my freind a gravity generator of falling weight witch is takes a long time like 6 or 8 hours to reach the ground and thanks a lot you have a good heart i'm waiting for your reply
@@user-il1sj3mo3b Ah, I see. Sorry, you're dealing with that issue. Once I have 3D printed and tested the new gear system I'm working on I'll be happy to share the files. Hopefully, that will help you out.
Great suggestion, personally I would use electromagnets instead of magnets. The reason is the prices for quality magnets. I need a similar generator printable on a 3D printer with a 35x35x50cm print area, but without permanent magnets. But I can't create a 3D model.
Well, it certainly would be cheaper.
Inferring that you would DIY the electromagnet how would ensure each is the same strength? Where will the power for said electromagnet come from?
1. the electromagnet can be made the same as the stator part. 2. Neodymium magnets also do not have quite the same strength due to inaccuracies and impurities in the material.
3. the excitation can come from the battery and then directly from the generator or it can be self-excitation.
like an asynchronous motor in reverse mode when it produces electricity.
the residual, ambient, and ground magnetic fields provide the impulse and then ramp up to rated power in the avalanche.
4. Magnetic driver can be used to generate power for electromagnets (much lower total cost of magnets)
5. why because high performance neodymium magnets are expensive. an electromagnet can be made from cheap wire and the power of the entire machine can be changed with it. by changing the current in the electromagnet.
6. I probably won't find a neodymium magnet in the trash, but I can get enough wires for free from old fan transformers and various coils
What always your total cost up to this point?
With how it’s set up how many volts can you produce?
Over 150v, at higher speeds. I don't have an accurate measurement of the amperage yet though.
@@Motionmagnetics thanks!
I'm planning on doing this with plywood
Great idea!
Ok update if using plywood u need to coat it in some kind of sealer to the plywood it warped over the winter and using sealer should stop that and u will want to drill dozens of quarter inch holes in every plate so air can cool the wood they get very hot on a windmill and i found the centers and edges started to turn black and smelled like burned wood and if u paint it use white oil based paint
Oh ansd dont forget only use quarter inch plywood for the rotors and half inch for the stator
And osb can be used
Herring bone gears are quiet and a lot stronger than flat straight gears. This would be an option of the belt doesn't work out. If you need help with those, I know how to make them very easily with Blender. Also, to save a lot of money, you could use all-thread for the outer rods, and the bolts in the rotary assembly. Just used captive nuts on the end piece so you don't have to repeat the end cap assembly of the rotor. You can prevent a lot of warping issues if you use a raft or make sure the bed is really clean. I use finger nail polish remover on my print bed for the best print adhesion. Straight acetone doesn't work, it has to be cheap fingernail polish remover. I don't know which chemical it is that is in it, but it works extremely well. I print on straight glass a lot of the time without any warping issues at all.
Thanks. I might take you up on that.
I would not have thought of polish remover. How ever did you arrive at that idea?
@@Motionmagnetics It has acetone in it, which is good for adhering ABS prints to glass if you melt abs into it. I tried that for ABS and it worked. Then I thought, I wonder if it works for cleaning it. So I tried it, and have been using it since. I've tried all kinds of things. Acetone straight doesn't work. Alcohol doesn't work either. But for some reason, fingernail polish remover, makes PLA stick like crazy. Even works on beds that are supposed to work without anything on them. I've never used gluestick. I built 3 of my own printers from scratch starting in 2016. The second one was a fail due to being way too big and not having a big enough budget for adequate parts. The third one I rarely use, now that I have a decent size printer that has two print heads on it. Let me know what size the gears need to be, and I can make them for you. I have a youtube channel of my own that I don't upload on anymore. The name of it is inventimark.
Ethanol?
@@Willrocs Isopropyl alcohol. I haven't tried Ethanol. I suspect no difference though.
Ma quanta corrente riesci é a generare,non ho capito bene se sono 10 V o 100 V ,grazie
70-100 V, ma questo è da dandogli un giro veloce. Non l'ho ancora collegato a nulla per dargli un test adeguato. Ora sto costruendo un sistema di ingranaggi per questo.
Sir ,where are you from .which major should i do to become an engineer like you?
I'm just a tinkerer with a bit of an imagination. Immerse yourself in information about the subjects you find interesting and let your mind wander. Try different ideas when you think of them, and always ask: "What if?"
Very Deep.
Takes time.And long 🤔
BaddArse!
If you want to build a 5kW generator the FIRST thing to do is find a 7kW motive drive source...
Wellness check, you doin okay?
When do you think you will upload the next video?
I have a machinist friend who is building the main drive shaft for the gear system. He doing this around his job, so the process isn't as expedient as one would like. Hopefully, he's finished in a week or two and then I can get back to testing the gearbox that I've already built. I should have a new video up soon after.
@@Motionmagnetics thanks for getting back! Your design is great!
How can i contact with You?
Do you want formulas for creating a magnetic engine?
Hi brother peace of the LORD upon you, could you inform me please, how many watts your generator is doing, and what is the weight ? , i m thinking in make one too,(this time with a 3d printer) to be honest i already made one of fiber glass, but i dont have a 3d printer, so it become very heavy and was very hard to me, it was producing only 70 w, (i used microwave magnetics), i would like to make one that weights like 2 kg and produce something arround 500w, i dont know if it is possible and there are alot fake videos in youtube, so i cant trust in them, but i know you are a honest person, for it i would be very happy if you tell me brother, by the way brother by the grace of the LORD ,JESUS i found how to use pulleys to decrease the ammount of weight that is need on the engine, if you want, i can tell you how brother. i wish you and your family have a great and a beautiful day.
Thanks. I've had it up to 184v at higher RPMs. I'm not certain of the watts yet, so I don't want to mislead anyone until I have more accurate numbers. I would guess at least 400w, but that's just a guess.
@@Motionmagnetics thank you so much for the replying brother, you said you have 184 volts right ? and if i m not wrong your coil is producing 2 and half amper , so it would be 460w , because watts is volts times amper , it would be very impressive , what is the rpm brother ? , and i was thinking, your magnetic rotor has magnetics arroung making a circle right, but what happend if you put more magnetics bellow those that are already in the circle, so it would make a second layer of magnetics improving the efficiency of your engine, because i think you are losing space putting only one layer of magnetic in that disk , may be because the increasing of the magnetic flux, you would also increase the amper and the power keeping the same space, GOD bless you brother and we are waiting for new videos, hug from brazil to you.
@@andersonsantos-lr7qu I'd say that's a pretty good guess on the watts. I'm trying to estimate on the low end as I'd rather exceed people's expectations than fall short. I didn't measure the RPM when I hit 184v. I'd guess over 700, but I'm not certain. Once I have something tested better I'll share some more accurate numbers.
Thanks for the kind words.
Any skilled machinery guy can make this on the right material in order to put it on work? Speaking of the box , stator, rotors and all the parts but, magnets and wiring coils.
@Motionmagnetics
Wait I have a question. How did you determine how many magnets to use in the generator? th-cam.com/video/OL-HiwAs-gE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=OTl-MuL-FhtmlC8A&t=153
Part of it was for simplicity. There are obviously 360 degrees in a circle, so by using 36 magnets on the rotor when you 3D model the magnet housings you just separate each one by 10 degrees. I also had several magnets from another project that I thought would also work well on this project and the size worked great for the design I had in mind.
JW, is there a method other than Paypal to assist you in getting supplies to move this project forward? I've always had a passion for projects like this, but my career doesn't allow me any time to pursue them anymore. Do you have an amazon wishlist or something along those lines so i could materially support your endeavor?
It's kind of you to ask. Mostly what I've been doing is saving my own money up for each section of this project and purchasing things when I have the money available. I wouldn't say I have an Amazon wish list, as not all of the parts I purchase are from Amazon. I'll probably pick up a pure sign wave inverter there at some point, but I get my PLA directly from the manufacturer, the magnets and magnetic wire aren't bought through Amazon either.
I have the PayPal donate option available should you wish to use it, but that's really all I have set up for donations currently. I've considered removing it actually, as I've probably received less than $30 in donations on it all the years it's been available.e
@Motionmagnetics I guess ill go through PayPal. Not really a fan of them taking 3% but so be it. Standby and hopefully it will be helpful.
I didn't get a confirmation so if you don't see it on your end please let me know.
@@connor1186 I woke up to a PayPal notification of your donation. Thanks, my friend! I will put it right into more supplies for this project. I'm so used to doing everything and paying for everything myself, I can't tell you how much I appreciate the help.
@Motionmagnetics happy to help buddy. Looking forward to your next video!
the files are gone. deleted. What happened?
I just switched the link. Hopefully, that fixes it.
im still very interested in what your doing and would love to talk about some things.
im not full of it i just need to finish getting my designs protected from greedy people so they can be useful like what your doing for the people who need this type of thing.
ever see a working space heater that costs 5 dollars a month running 24 hours a day or less to run? i cant run mine for more than 1-2 hours at a time or im roasting alive. this cant burn your house down safe with pets and kids and pulls 1.2 amps current draw? yeah it sounds useless yet it works very well. i can show it to you but i really need your help.
how much power can you really get from your generator? i need a generator for when i go camping. idc if i get ac or dc as i can convert it and need both but battery storage is 12v based.
i also have a very large speaker and its magnets 3 stack of round magnets if i remember right its an 18" subwoofer for car audio competitions the magnet is 9" tall and 9" wide so each is 3" thick.
is there a type of generator thats even worth making with those magnets or are they best used for making a motor. id considered a round coil loop and track and having the whole motor travel around the track as like a giant induction event. spun by a small motor to get to the speed needed. but i thought about seperating the magnet stack but its only 3 and you dont get many pole flips.
i also have a ceiling fan i had considered hacking up as it does have alot of coils 3 phase and ac. but it needs magnets. i have some decent size motors ive been picking up to spin various things. and i have a high output alternator for cars i have been trying to find a good match to spin if i cant come up with something more fun. i just dont want to haul around fuel or run out. just have everything i need where im at and not weigh a million pounds too. i have a business to run and it puts me in remote places with no amenities. so having power can make a big diff.
The power depends on how you build it and what you use to power it. Adding one gear and a hand crank earlier today increased the voltage to over 180. I'm not sure of the amperage. I'm planning on using a gear system with a weight, but you could pedal it with a gear system or hook it to wind or water as well.
I'm really just trying to present a base system. You could build and stack any axial flux system and produce whatever your energy needs require so long as you build it to the specifications necessary.
@@Motionmagnetics thank you. so roughly what your saying is it produced over 180 volts. i have a space heater that uses 125-140 watts of power 110 ac. it only uses 1.2 amps. vent temp is over 85 degrees f.
your generator could power my heater most likely. 1 solar panel can run it 24 hrs a day zero power usage but helpful heat. my end game is to have my camping batteries charge so when im done mining for the day at remote locations i have power call me crazy but i like to relax at the end of the day after working and not be out in the middle of nowhere trying to cook in the dark. my current camping setup can run about 8 hrs off my battery storage. if i could charge that while im working and have it ready to go when im done would be nice. now i have to spend gas to run things. i have to charge with my car. what if i run out of gas and there isnt a way to get more. yeah i can bring a gas can but its going to be where i sleep im good. one of my power sources i tested with used an electric motor and it spins a car alternator but the alternator is harder to run than that motor can handle. i just need a diff motor. or a diff generator coil. my future plan when i have some money to waste is atmospheric energy harvesting. its real and a thing and im willing to bet i can charge off that 24/7 so after a few days my batteries will be full. or generators like yours i could run very easily.
@@chehystpewpur4754 I would imagine it would power a heater fairly easily. That's one of the things I plan to test it running when I get things more set up. I'll post a video showing the results at some point.
@@Motionmagnetics thank you for your time. i know i sound like a crazy madman and i promise you i never said i wasnt crazy.
but im the good crazy i promise you that. i just finished my pretty much final rendition of my space heater that i told you of. 4 trim pieces on it and its done. pick the size pick the power color and how it smells. it will also do heat and ac on the next versions with the same power so no real change other than cold too. it works as a no power radiant heater i ran it last night for some hours using 3 watts pretty much the whole time. power comsumption meter agrees sometimes it doesnt even register the things running. when i seen your generator i was like man if i had that thing i bet i could make it pretty useful.
turns out i can make it better and im willing to tell you how. and cheaper and ill tell you now. your magnet holders are 3d printed and you made comments about how its not very good and i know thats also very expensive. go to your local home improvement store. look at a product called luaun i think i spelled it right. its flooring underlayment. dirt cheap a 4ft by 8 ft sheet is around 20 dollars. get a hole saw. whatever size you want your rings to be so say 6 inches drill quick easy holes and have round chunks of wood. its thin plywood with plastic inbetween like a grilled cheese sandwich. your car windshield is glass plastic glass and its much safer and stronger than just glass. this cheap light wood is just the same. it doesnt care about heat its non conductive and its much stronger and sturdier than your 3d printed plastic. you could cut over 100 discs out of that sheet of underlayment without even doing the math. you could use it for other things too. the best part is all those magnets you have to stick into your 3d printed parts. yeah get the right size drill bit. drill your holes and now you have easy pop em in but it is make faster than your 3d printer can dream of. the wood is about the thickness of your magnets too so nice finish.you could sheet over tape over hot glue epoxy super glue anything to hold them in place if the hole is tight enough it may just hold itself in. no deflecting melting or bending. and you can stain the wood and have a beautiful finish on it in the end. a rich looking product and it actually costs less than your current materials. ohh i almost forgot this material is alot lighter than the plastic too and smells ok when cutting it so added bonus. you could use any form of plywood though get a nice maple oak birch or cedar for some color and grain options and your gonna have one of those beautiful desktop models but it actually works and we can make it work alot better you know. id love to chat with you sometime in private. i can show you some of the things i make and have been toying with and you can see were both very much so doing the same thing. i just cant post some of the things im doing yet publicly cause im afraid it will get stolen and used for profit. i want this stuff to be cheap and affordable for anyone. sell the design cheap and they can make it themself or if they dont have the ability ill make it for them. im trying to convince a man on a boat to let me make one for him the cost of parts. his last heater exploded and could have burned him alive in his sleep. his viewers are begging him to use diff heat. he has to use a terra cotta heater for cost reason. i could give him heat and ac in one and cheap and safe and he thinks im crazy. as im sure you thought i was too. the math is real im sweating in my room and its only on radiant heat now. 3 watts my dude. the inside of the heater is 80 degrees and climbing i just turned it on less than an hr ago. the fan isnt even on.
im actually planning on putting a light in the one that comes in the next generation. i want to make an induction coil so when the fan is on the emf from its 30 watt motor will light a little led light like an old computer fan when the leds came out. they lit the led from the fan not the power wire. because ill have a 3 position switch hot cold and off. red led hot blue led cold. just a little kick for the people who want it. a free mood light. i used window screen to cover up the fan and hide plastic. i overlayed 2 sheets of it so it gives a cool acid trip design when it moves and will look like flicker flame in the red like the electric fire place. the blue will look like icy wind i guess and snow blowing. it doesnt have to be there but it does make you smile. and doesnt cost anything.
@@chehystpewpur4754 Thanks for the suggestion. If I owned a CNC machine I might give the cheaper materials a try, but I don't own the proper tools to accurately cut the parts out of the materials as you described.
Have you posted any videos of your heater/air conditioner?
some pma information
you may or may not know the following.
a serpentine coil does not make a good generating coil. a generating coil should not have Too many winds/layers, of Too small conductor. the conductor used should be 14awg or equiv. (coils can be wound 'in hand' if smaller conductor is going to be used. doing so should result in a relative increase in output voltage, while not clamping the current.) a generating coil that has too many winds/layers acts as a current clamp. meaning, you may see 'high' output voltage from such a coil, but the output current will always be disappointingly low. in this case, a flywheel does Nothing. as it is in most applications, the prime mover (whatever it is) SHOULD have mechanical advantage (MA) over the load that it experiences. instead of using multi-stage high-loss gearing, it is simple and less inefficient to drive a pma rotor via the use of a single stage of (high-ratio) reduction at its Perimeter; aka a friction drive. as desired, more than one prime mover can be utilized. d
My intent with this design is to make it simple and accessible to everyone. You're right, there are definitely more efficient and powerful methods to build one.
The point of the flywheel will become more obvious when you see the full picture of what I'm building. There is method to what I'm doing. Hopefully, people will look at it when I have the entire thing finished and say: "Oh, I see it now!"
I don't know if I should point out the "issues" with your model, from the magnets used to the coil, size to execution. I'll try to explain. If you make a soup you don't just throw all the ingredients in a pot and voila, look I made soup. The potential of a serpentine coil its grater then people can imagine.
And here I am making sloppy soup. If you have some ideas on how to improve the design and the ability to present those ideas in video form, I'm open to suggestions and would be happy to watch your video if you send me a link.
Actually, that is how you make soup...
Is this plagiarized from Robert Murray-Smith?
The serpentine coil was from one of his designs. Watch my previous video if you haven't already, I credited him and thanked him. His channel is one of my favorites on TH-cam.