Just ripped my engine apart a month ago and replaced lifters, camshaft, oil pump to hellcat pump, timing chain kit, oil pan pickup tube, oil pan gaskets, all other gaskets, spark plugs, serpentine belt, etc. My truck now runs quiet like it's a brand new truck. People just need to take their time and triple check everything. The job is only hard if you make it that way
I'm about to tackle this job on my 2007. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but have a question. After finding top dead center....installing cam...lifters....putting heads back on...pushrods....etc..do you need to turn the engine manually by hand before starting it with the key to make sure there are no issues? If so, here is my question....by doing so this does it mess with your timing, or is your timing still good since you already found it earlier Thank anyone for some help!
@@cameronlujan9320 First off never done this job. Other videos I’ve watched if I remember right, showed there are marks on the chain, sprocket, and block to line up. Also showed in moving it manually. The other made it seem like not a big deal getting it lined up. Take this for what it is and just keep searching youtube for other videos. If I find the one I’m talking about I’ll update with link.
10/10 I just completed this job on my truck, I have zero mechanical experience and I've never done any type of motor work to this degree. I referenced this video from the first step all the way to firing it up for the first time. The only thing I did different was instal non mds lifters and removed and plugged the solenoids. The truck runs better than it ever has now. I can't thank you enough for this video I don't think I could have done it without it.
@derrickjackson1081 I ordered the full mds kit from texas speed, it comes eith everything you need for the job other than exhaust bolts and the oil pan gasket.
Me and my son are about halfway through this job right now, and I've kept this video open the entire time. Very helpful video. It's the best one I've found.
I just started helping my neighbor with this fix and no where in the title of you video do you say that this is only for a 2 wheel drive truck. In order to get the oil pan off on a 4 wheel drive dodge/ram truck you have to either lift the entire engine out to remove the oil pan or you have to disassemble the passenger side of the front axle in order to get the pan off. I simply wish that you either re-title this video or at the least make a disclaimer that this only applies to a 2x4 dodge/ram truck. As a humble home mechanic I truly appreciate this video because this helped us immensely... other than the headache we now have encountered midway through the job which is to remove half of the front axle, we're gonna keep on following your advice because you did a great job in this video... other than that disclaimer lol. Which I'm sure you'll fix. Thanks brotha peace out
This and the guy from Motorsport are the best videos on the internet about this job . I can’t thank you enough. I’m doing this job in about a month getting a kit from AMS . Thanks again for taking the time to teach us.
Thank you soooooo much for making this video. I know my way around an engine bay but this is my first mopar. You gave me the courage to tackle this project instead of taking it to the dealer and spending 7k. I fired it up tonight and everything came out great! Thank you again!!!!!
@jackhfletcher with the 4x4 model how difficult is it verses the 2wd? A guy I know wants me to do this on his 4x4 2014. Is there a kit I can buy that has everything or do I need to just piece it all together? His engine has #3 lifter that has left the chat and it has 164k miles on it.
Thank you so much for this video. Referencing your video repeatedly, among others, I managed to get this done on my 2011 Ram 1500 4x4. Some notes for others who might be forced into this DIY position due to cost. If you have a 4x4, its way harder to get this done. You have to move the front differential, and the 2 drivers side bolts probably took me an entire day just to figure out how to get off. I did this in a small carport without the ability to use jackstands since the ceiling was so low. So it can be done with patience, swearing, and future terrible mood. Since you have to basically take the whole thing apart anyways, I decided to change valve springs/seats/retainers/seals. I also changed the water pump, and deleted the MDS, and installed a new high volume oil pump. Also got new pushrods, head bolts. Basically went all out so my 160k mile truck would be as close to new as possible under the hood. I can't find it, but there was a recent report showing the MDS solenoids block a lot of oil from getting to the camshaft and lifters. That is why I went with the MDS delete. Once again, thanks for this. I had no mechanical experience at all, other than changing oil and batteries. I'm still not a mechanic...but I know a lot more about engines now, thats for sure. Any of you others out there, you can do it, just take your time. Trust me, if you try to complete this in a few days with no experience, you are just setting yourself up for failure.
I have next to zero mechanical experience but i am very handy and cannot afford to pay someone to do this I think buying the tools i need will be a great investment for me to tackle this alone. This video sure will help me alot GREAT JOB! wish me luck.
Absolutely brilliant video, one of the best representations of a step by step process on a complex job. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this. It has been extremely helpful.
Did this job on Jeep srt8 6.4 hemi engine and everything went really smooth, the video was really helpful. Thanks for such a detailed instructions and clear video with a sound. Good job
Just wrapped up mine and this video was helpful, oem cam, lifters, MDS delete, it started and runs fine, no CELs or other issues you can do it.....tip...take your time this is not a race, double check your work and you will save yourself in the long run
I completed this job about 300 miles ago and here's my review. Truck: 2013 Ram 1500 5.7 4x4 sport Kit: AMS racing MDS Delete kit. Upgraded to hell cat oil pump. Found broken bolts in both exaust headers and removed with extractor kit. Replaced rusted heat shields on exhaust headers. Replaced bolts that attach exaust pipes to engine heads. The 4x4 requires lowering the front diff to remove the oil pan. I did this by removing a total of 7 different mount bolts for the front diff assm, removing the passenger engine mount bolt, and lifting the engine block about 4-5 inches using a jack and 2x4 with a v-shaped cut under the crankshaft pully. Did mds delete. I highly recommend using the timing chain reference points/markers when setting timing. Not because it makes a mechanical difference but to ensure you are still aligned after installing the guides. Engine runs smooth as butter. No tick. Went with 5w 30 because I live in warm climate. If you live in cooler climate stick with the 5w 20. Spent about 3k in parts and tools. Probably saved myself at least 5k. If you don't have a 4x4 this job is very doable with time and patience. I'm not a mechanic so it probably took me about 5 days total scattered over 3-4 weeks. If you have a 4x4 like me, I personally would recommend paying someone if you can because lowing the front diff adds about 8 tough additional hours and can be risky if you are not careful. Happy and blessed to be back on the road. Good luck fellas and thanks to this channel because I wouldn't have been able to do it without this video.
Outstanding video! Pretty sure my #2 cylinder lifters are gone, and I've been avoiding this job. Your video and explanation was so clear and simple to follow, I feel like I can take apart the whole engine now, lol. Good Job 😎
Phenomenal Video of this procedure! Fantastic explanations, camera work, lighting, and even where you forgot to put the oil pan gasket on. Thanks so much! We will be taking it to the mechanic to do this particular job!
Fantastic video, great job. I had a 2013 Ram 1500 4x4, 5.7 and loved the truck, I had a very small Hemi tick since it was new, however I never had any issues. I changed the oil/filter every 3k - 3500 miles.. used the 5w-20 and MOPAR filter, sometimes I would use 5 quarts of 5w-20 and 2 quarts of 5w-30 mixed.. I sold that beautiful truck with 30k miles, no issues ever with anything, mine had the 6 speed auto.
Breaking down the Hemi right now, This video is very helpful. There is a drain plug on the bottom left side of the radiator. I found this way easier then pulling bottom hoses and taking a bath in anti freeze.
Just made this repair on my Grand Cherokee. Thank you so much for this video as it was my go to during the repair. I actually ended up just pulling the whole engine out because of the oil pan part. Ended up fixing a bunch of other things such as the rear main seal and exhaust manifolds. But this video gave the confidence I needed to do the repair. Thanks so much
I just finished rebuilding my 2011 Ram 1500, following this video. Got parts from a specialist engine building shop with what they use. Mopar updated lifters with bigger bearings than original ones. Melling camshaft. Had the tick for 2 minutes after startup then no more tick. Runs just like the one in the video, no leaks. I dropped the oil pan but did not remove it (4×4). Was able to reach inside and wipe it out with a rag. Im skinny. Reused the oil pan gasket, could not remove the old one with the pickup tube bolted inside still. Put lots of gasket maker over the old gasket. Was worth rebuilding this truck since it has low mileage (148000km) and body is in good shape, just bought it with the tick, was in denial it was the lifters but the exhaust gaskets were recently replaced. Got the misfire code then immediatly rebuilt it. Cylinder 4 lifter roller looked worn and camshaft had a huge v shaped gash in it. Parts cost $2500 cad including gaskets. Put new anti-freeze, head gaskets and water pump gasket was in rough shape. thanks for the video and being straight to the point
My ram just did this and sir I gotta say your step by step is amazing makes me feel better watching how it was done so I can fix mine again absolutely great video on everything
I'm having issues with a truck I bought my son. Guy said all it needed was a valve cover gasket and a TPS. Well not even close too whats really wrong with the truck. He changed the cam shaft himself but the truck is leaking everywhere even in the main seal. Bolts are broke inside the oil pan. Water pump is leaking. It just gets worse. Man I wish I can hire this guy. He is amazing. You can even hear it in his voice he really enjoys doing this. Please help me.
My 2013 crew cab sport with 150k engine light came on. Misfire cylinder 6. Put new spark plugs. Swapped the coils. Cleaned injectors. And I’m still misfiring when I punch it. Idles fine. No crazy lifter tick. But after watching this video I’m going to pull the trigger on a cam swap along with upgraded lifters. Great video man. Very thorough and straight to the point.
Pull off the passenger side valve cover and crank the engine over while holding the gas pedal all the way down (that way the engine doesn’t start). Have someone crank the engine like that and watch the valves on cylinder 6 and I bet you’ll find one valve that moves less than the other ones. That’s how you know. I have another video on my channel where I do that if you want to see.
Thank you for an excellent video. I have the 4wd version. Added an extra six hours lowering the differential. Many videos out there say to remove the passenger side motor mount and jack the motor. I did not need to do this, just lower the diff as much as it will go until it rests on crossmember brackets and then you can manipulate the diff to let the oil pan slide out. Thank you for your help!!
Thank you, you help so many of us who just need some guidance for these complex repairs. I need to replace lifters/cam as it is about that time, again. I just can’t do 5k at the dealership for a truck worth about the same. This video will help me, I’m sure. Thank you
Im saving this video for the torque specs and detailed tear down instructions. You definitely made this look less intimidating. Ive worked on a lot of enginee but never a hemi
11:20 First destroyed lifter in not part of MDS. Is it intake or exhaust? Which cylinder? Seems like two cam lobes were totally wiped out. Was it only two lifters that failed? Which lifters failed?
Hi friend. I've been studying your video for weeks to do the same job on my Ram, but first I have two questions: the first is, would the procedure and torque on each bolt be the same for the 2012 Ram 5.7 hemi? And the second question is: I didn't quite understand why the marking on the bolts and the 90 degrees? Regards and I hope you can help me.
I agree 100%. Should be a recall. I have all my service records and oil changes was all on time, still had a lifter fail. But Im In the process of getting a stage 2 cam, headers, and a hellcat pump. Mine failed at 207k miles with a 2012 Ram 1500 Laramie.
@@d2hickmott I hope It will, Its almost done, Im just waiting on the heads from the machine shop. Im getting all new valves, resurfacing and cleaned. No problem at all.
Great video. Why no MDS delete? Maybe install the upgraded Melling oil pump? Could this job be done without removing the oil pan? Can you clean out the debris from the oil pan if it’s not removed? Any concern about metal in bearing surfaces?
Hello, I replaced the lifters including the camshaft, timing chain set + camshaft adjuster and oil pump from the Hellcat on my 2015 Gen4. The engine runs really well, but when it's idling I hear a rattling noise from the cylinder head area. Is that normal or should I be worried? Video of the noise is in my profile.
Great Vid, another one is from 1A Auto....If you have a 4x4 its a real pain..you have to drop the front diff in order to drop the oil pan. There are 5 bolts that need to be removed, 2 on the right and 3 on the left.
Hi Jack Did you use OEM lifters and cam ? if not what brand do you recommend? Thanks I just read from other comments way down lol.. you got everything from the dealer ...cheers great video's keep up the great work !!!
Great video. Why no MDS delete? Maybe install the upgraded Melling oil pump? Could this job be done without removing the oil pan? Can you clean out the debris from the oil pan if it’s not removed?
What cam did you use in the video or would you personally use or recomend? I see some forums guys are recomending comp cam, melling double roller chain, and melling HV oil pump, factory lifters
This was an AMAZING VIDEO, THANK YOU!!!! Considering replacing my timing chain assembly because of the guide rattle, now I may go farther and do everything you did while i'm in there, however, still pretty nervous!
Excellent video. Not sure if i can tackle this on my 4x4 jeep in my garage though. Thinking about it. Dont understand the "90 degree" bolt segment. Aren't bolt just torqued to spec?
I did this work 1.5 years ago in my driveway, not ideal but made it work weather dependent. I'd recommend you look up the "assembling 5.7l hemi engine" video by @ghostlyrich he explains the bolt torque as well and shows his process.
Did you reuse the oil pump? If you're already in there, it would make sense to put a new one in, whether OEM or a hellcat/high volume one. Especially with all that debris in the pan.
Thanks for a great and detailed video. My Durango has the squeaking lifter sounds, it’s started not too long ago, I hope there’s still time to save the camshaft, gonna order the new lifters and yeet the old ones.
Thank you so much dude ,I decided not to buy a new truck,and restore my 2013,I ve started on suspension and have been worried about motor because of the mds but my truck runs fine no issies 215k on it ,im replacing all mounts bushings all suspension parts axles bearings you know.painting frame all that but the motor im hoping last for lil longer cause i dont have time to do this job till summer.ive takin care of it still looks new.(subscribed)!!!
Great video! My 2012 Jeep grand Cherokee has a cylinder 2 misfire. The SUV ran decent, took it to a mechanic, he found a bad hydraulic lifter, replaced it. Now the truck doesn’t even run, it starts but is not stable. Is this normal could the engine be damaged? It was running before. Do you think the camshaft needs replacing or did he just not assemble it right? Any thoughts?
Is it the same engine? The 5.7 hemi? My first thought is that there may have been an issue during reassembly because it definitely shouldn’t be worse than it was before.
@@jackhfletcher Hi Jack! Yes it’s a 5.7 Hemi. You know I thought the same thing but then I asked myself why would he take on a job that he knows nothing about. Thanks so much for replying! I might just take it apart myself and see what’s going on.
I actually bought it at Harbor Freight! It’s a mini air angle die grinder. www.harborfreight.com/search?q=Die%20grinder The attachment I was using I bought on a tool truck but you can buy them online. Just search “plastic bristle attachment for die grinder”
@@jackhfletcher Thanks a ton!!! I’ve actually got my 2015 charger in a million pieces right now thanks to your video. Had a lifter go out and it damaged my cam. Now I’ve just got to put the rest of it back together.
My 2014 Ram 5.7 is getting Diagnosed now for this exact problem. He said he is going to see if its just bad lifters..or if the Cam needs replaced as well. Is it possible that just the lifters need replaced? Or will Cam need to be replaced?
very well done, you made it look so easy that im thinking of doing it my self, at lest , i now have some leverage to show a pro mech. that it can be done for less than $7000 , more like 10 to 12 hrs labor " like the chiltions book allows" will make the est. closer to $2000 to $3500 , thank you for that... hope you get alot of points "likes" for your time spent , you sir did a good deed indeed thanks again aka "clutch"
Great video i would definitely clean the entire engine bay before i started the install i didn’t has a speck of dirt after using a power washer and had no issues after
thank you for posting this. I'll be replacing a few things on mine. I'm going with shorties and a bigger throttle body, stock cam but I'm doing away with the mds system. any advise?
It can be done with out removing the oil pump for those who are wondering . This way the crank stays in time you only have to set timing on new cam . You would want to do it this way if you have a ram 1500 4x4 cause this way no pan removal either
Just because it CAN be done, doesn’t mean it SHOULD be done. You see how much metal ends up at the bottom of the oil pan? If you don’t clean that out, you’re asking for trouble down the road. If you’re doing it on your personal vehicle and you want to cut corners, fine. But don’t do it on a customer’s vehicle.
@jackhfletcher 100% agreement. It's a POV and I am doing work in my garage. I am limited to what I can pull off and where. Is the only concern metal shavings in oil?
There are different theories on this. Some people theorize that the particular metal hardening process used during manufacturing of the camshaft lobes causes premature lifter failure. Either that, or the lifters are just poorly made. It’s probably not a lubrication issue.
What does this repair cost @ a shop like yours, if I may ask?.. I am confident I'd be able to do it but w/ very limited time to do the job, my kids truck would be doun and out for a month or so...
Thank you so much for this video! Question, after putting my engine back together and adding the appropriate amount of fluids here and there, when I crank the truck up it's an extremely rough idle with fluctuating RPM. After the Shakey idle the engine cuts off. What did I do wrong? Any ideas?
Check with a scanner and see if there are any codes. Probably a sensor that you forgot to plug in and the code will tell you which one. Could be another problem but from my experience that’s usually what happens. Let me know if you get it resolved.
@@jackhfletcher ended up pulling multiple misfires from the code reader. Figured I installed the push rods wrong. In the re-disassembly to fix it, I found my intake manifold gaskets were completely useless and flush. Putting everyone back together with new gaskets and resetting the rods extra carefully. Will report back with results!
The only other thing I could think that would cause multiple misfires would be if you didn’t install the timing chain properly. Maybe the timing is off. But it sounds like you have a good plan. Replace the intake gaskets first for sure.
Big question, my truck shows 4 permanent codes think it’s sensors and cylinder 4 misfire will they cleared out? Cause check engine light it’s on but running ok THANKS!
Permanent codes will clear after a certain amount of drive cycles where no issue is detected by the PCM. They cannot be cleared by a scan tool. Only “pending” or “current” codes can be cleared. So as long as you don’t have any of those, you’ll be good.
I have a 2012 300C with a 5.7 sounds like a lifter is ticking… no misfire yet… is it a requirement to replace the camshaft if its not misfiring yet? Or would I be ok just changing the lifters?
You won’t know for sure until you disassemble. Check all the lifter bearings for wear and look down into the lifter bores and look at the camshaft lobes one by one and look for any wear or damage. Rotate the engine by hand as you’re inspecting the camshaft so that you can see the tips of the lobes where they press on the lifters. From what I’ve seen, usually a ticking lifter will damage the camshaft, since the “ticking” sound is actually caused by the camshaft slamming into the lifter due to a worn, collapsed, or seized lifter bearing.
I did exactly what you did but I did a mds delete and when I tried to start my truck, it first said something about 4 different cylinders and then I tuned it to turn off the mds. Then I tried to start it up again and then gaved me a p0300 code saying that it has random misfires. Any ideas what may be wrong?
was there any consideration to metal shvings going throught the engine? those cam lobes look pretty munched up. Obviously there was a decision to move forward with the job. What your opinion about this? Video really is outstanding.. will have the video close by to do mine.. Thank you!!!
They make a special tool that has the shape of a “V” with studs on it, (the I had did) that you use on the cam sprocket to hold it in place from turning while you torque that cam bolt down. Remember if you do not use this tool or one like it, you are likely to throw your #1 piston off of TDC.
i am willing to take my truck to you to fix my hemi tick. i’ve checked and changed my exhaust manifold gaskets because they were basically blown. That wasn’t the issue. i don’t have room or all the tools to be able to do this.
160 k on mine. #6 cylinder misfire. Mechanic told me its probably a worn cam shaft lobe after chasing down some other possibilities. Than he told me to take it somewhere else 🤦♂️
@@shawnweir8426 I’ve got a 2010 5.7 and I’m at 210k and I just recently got a misfire in cylinder 5, a slight lifter pinging and I’ve done all new coils and all new spark plugs. At this point with the mileage I’m not even going to waste my time changing cam/lifters, I’m just going to throw a mopar long block in it and run it.
Just ripped my engine apart a month ago and replaced lifters, camshaft, oil pump to hellcat pump, timing chain kit, oil pan pickup tube, oil pan gaskets, all other gaskets, spark plugs, serpentine belt, etc. My truck now runs quiet like it's a brand new truck. People just need to take their time and triple check everything. The job is only hard if you make it that way
I'm about to tackle this job on my 2007. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but have a question. After finding top dead center....installing cam...lifters....putting heads back on...pushrods....etc..do you need to turn the engine manually by hand before starting it with the key to make sure there are no issues? If so, here is my question....by doing so this does it mess with your timing, or is your timing still good since you already found it earlier Thank anyone for some help!
wondering how everything is holding up?,ive been wanting to do the hellcat oil pump upgrade,is it worth it?
@@cameronlujan9320 First off never done this job. Other videos I’ve watched if I remember right, showed there are marks on the chain, sprocket, and block to line up. Also showed in moving it manually. The other made it seem like not a big deal getting it lined up. Take this for what it is and just keep searching youtube for other videos. If I find the one I’m talking about I’ll update with link.
How much did it cost you ?
Good advice,
I couldn’t agree more.
10/10
I just completed this job on my truck, I have zero mechanical experience and I've never done any type of motor work to this degree. I referenced this video from the first step all the way to firing it up for the first time.
The only thing I did different was instal non mds lifters and removed and plugged the solenoids. The truck runs better than it ever has now.
I can't thank you enough for this video I don't think I could have done it without it.
How long did it take
Where did you order your part from
I ordered the full mds delete kit from texas speed it comes with everything you need for the job except for the oil pan gasket and exhaust bolts.
If you go the non mds route you will also need a tuner to disable the mds system in your vehicles computer
@derrickjackson1081 I ordered the full mds kit from texas speed, it comes eith everything you need for the job other than exhaust bolts and the oil pan gasket.
Me and my son are about halfway through this job right now, and I've kept this video open the entire time. Very helpful video. It's the best one I've found.
This is the best diy video I have ever seen and I been doing car work for 5 years !
Thanks for the compliment!
Thank you for including the torque specs! Saved me a lot of googling!
I just started helping my neighbor with this fix and no where in the title of you video do you say that this is only for a 2 wheel drive truck. In order to get the oil pan off on a 4 wheel drive dodge/ram truck you have to either lift the entire engine out to remove the oil pan or you have to disassemble the passenger side of the front axle in order to get the pan off. I simply wish that you either re-title this video or at the least make a disclaimer that this only applies to a 2x4 dodge/ram truck. As a humble home mechanic I truly appreciate this video because this helped us immensely... other than the headache we now have encountered midway through the job which is to remove half of the front axle, we're gonna keep on following your advice because you did a great job in this video... other than that disclaimer lol. Which I'm sure you'll fix. Thanks brotha peace out
P.S. The fact that you commented on almost everything's torque spec is extremally valuable
You bring up a good point and I just edited the description to include that disclaimer. I hope things go well with you and your neighbor’s truck.
What are the front differential mounting bolts torque specs? Please help.
4x4 torque specs front differential mounting bolts
@Ferral1000 axle mounting bolts are 81 ft-lbs and the axle housing pinion nose mounting bolts are 48 ft-lbs
This and the guy from Motorsport are the best videos on the internet about this job . I can’t thank you enough. I’m doing this job in about a month getting a kit from AMS . Thanks again for taking the time to teach us.
Thank you soooooo much for making this video. I know my way around an engine bay but this is my first mopar. You gave me the courage to tackle this project instead of taking it to the dealer and spending 7k. I fired it up tonight and everything came out great! Thank you again!!!!!
With courage and knowledge, anything can be done. It takes both. Thank you for your comment! It means a lot to me. I’m truly glad I could help you.
Do you have a parts list? Tryna figure out everything that I need to do this.
@jackhfletcher with the 4x4 model how difficult is it verses the 2wd? A guy I know wants me to do this on his 4x4 2014. Is there a kit I can buy that has everything or do I need to just piece it all together? His engine has #3 lifter that has left the chat and it has 164k miles on it.
It’s the same from what I’ve seen and I got a 4wd 2017
Thank you so much for this video. Referencing your video repeatedly, among others, I managed to get this done on my 2011 Ram 1500 4x4. Some notes for others who might be forced into this DIY position due to cost. If you have a 4x4, its way harder to get this done. You have to move the front differential, and the 2 drivers side bolts probably took me an entire day just to figure out how to get off. I did this in a small carport without the ability to use jackstands since the ceiling was so low. So it can be done with patience, swearing, and future terrible mood. Since you have to basically take the whole thing apart anyways, I decided to change valve springs/seats/retainers/seals. I also changed the water pump, and deleted the MDS, and installed a new high volume oil pump. Also got new pushrods, head bolts. Basically went all out so my 160k mile truck would be as close to new as possible under the hood. I can't find it, but there was a recent report showing the MDS solenoids block a lot of oil from getting to the camshaft and lifters. That is why I went with the MDS delete. Once again, thanks for this. I had no mechanical experience at all, other than changing oil and batteries. I'm still not a mechanic...but I know a lot more about engines now, thats for sure. Any of you others out there, you can do it, just take your time. Trust me, if you try to complete this in a few days with no experience, you are just setting yourself up for failure.
I have next to zero mechanical experience but i am very handy and cannot afford to pay someone to do this I think buying the tools i need will be a great investment for me to tackle this alone. This video sure will help me alot GREAT JOB! wish me luck.
Absolutely brilliant video, one of the best representations of a step by step process on a complex job. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this. It has been extremely helpful.
Yes I agree. I`m going to have to do this to my Ram shortly.
@@prairiefinish do it sooner than later, prevent those metal shavings from getting in the wrong places
@@ZLUVCRUCE He mentions in the description section about what parts (brands) he going to be using, but I cannot find anywhere in the video where. I
@@prairiefinish AMS racing
@@ZLUVCRUCE thanks!
Just got mine done. Ain't even out of break in period. Only work on my own stuff, not a mechanic. Your video was amazing. I appreciate you
Easiest instruction video on TH-cam hands down. Thanks, got my Ram back in no time!!
Did this job on Jeep srt8 6.4 hemi engine and everything went really smooth, the video was really helpful. Thanks for such a detailed instructions and clear video with a sound. Good job
Just wrapped up mine and this video was helpful, oem cam, lifters, MDS delete, it started and runs fine, no CELs or other issues you can do it.....tip...take your time this is not a race, double check your work and you will save yourself in the long run
Probably the best automotive instruction video I’ve ever seen thorough and informative
I completed this job about 300 miles ago and here's my review.
Truck: 2013 Ram 1500 5.7 4x4 sport
Kit: AMS racing MDS Delete kit.
Upgraded to hell cat oil pump.
Found broken bolts in both exaust headers and removed with extractor kit.
Replaced rusted heat shields on exhaust headers.
Replaced bolts that attach exaust pipes to engine heads.
The 4x4 requires lowering the front diff to remove the oil pan. I did this by removing a total of 7 different mount bolts for the front diff assm, removing the passenger engine mount bolt, and lifting the engine block about 4-5 inches using a jack and 2x4 with a v-shaped cut under the crankshaft pully.
Did mds delete.
I highly recommend using the timing chain reference points/markers when setting timing. Not because it makes a mechanical difference but to ensure you are still aligned after installing the guides.
Engine runs smooth as butter. No tick. Went with 5w 30 because I live in warm climate. If you live in cooler climate stick with the 5w 20.
Spent about 3k in parts and tools. Probably saved myself at least 5k.
If you don't have a 4x4 this job is very doable with time and patience. I'm not a mechanic so it probably took me about 5 days total scattered over 3-4 weeks.
If you have a 4x4 like me, I personally would recommend paying someone if you can because lowing the front diff adds about 8 tough additional hours and can be risky if you are not careful.
Happy and blessed to be back on the road.
Good luck fellas and thanks to this channel because I wouldn't have been able to do it without this video.
Outstanding video! Pretty sure my #2 cylinder lifters are gone, and I've been avoiding this job. Your video and explanation was so clear and simple to follow, I feel like I can take apart the whole engine now, lol. Good Job 😎
Phenomenal Video of this procedure! Fantastic explanations, camera work, lighting, and even where you forgot to put the oil pan gasket on. Thanks so much! We will be taking it to the mechanic to do this particular job!
Thank you! Yeah, probably not something you want to do in the driveway.
Fantastic video, great job. I had a 2013 Ram 1500 4x4, 5.7 and loved the truck, I had a very small Hemi tick since it was new, however I never had any issues. I changed the oil/filter every 3k - 3500 miles.. used the 5w-20 and MOPAR filter, sometimes I would use 5 quarts of 5w-20 and 2 quarts of 5w-30 mixed.. I sold that beautiful truck with 30k miles, no issues ever with anything, mine had the 6 speed auto.
Great video! Concise. Clear. No ranting about about this issue. No tuning nonsense. Great job.
Thank you!
@@jackhfletcherwhere are you located I need mine done
Breaking down the Hemi right now, This video is very helpful. There is a drain plug on the bottom left side of the radiator. I found this way easier then pulling bottom hoses and taking a bath in anti freeze.
Just made this repair on my Grand Cherokee. Thank you so much for this video as it was my go to during the repair. I actually ended up just pulling the whole engine out because of the oil pan part. Ended up fixing a bunch of other things such as the rear main seal and exhaust manifolds. But this video gave the confidence I needed to do the repair. Thanks so much
I just finished rebuilding my 2011 Ram 1500, following this video. Got parts from a specialist engine building shop with what they use. Mopar updated lifters with bigger bearings than original ones. Melling camshaft. Had the tick for 2 minutes after startup then no more tick. Runs just like the one in the video, no leaks. I dropped the oil pan but did not remove it (4×4). Was able to reach inside and wipe it out with a rag. Im skinny. Reused the oil pan gasket, could not remove the old one with the pickup tube bolted inside still. Put lots of gasket maker over the old gasket. Was worth rebuilding this truck since it has low mileage (148000km) and body is in good shape, just bought it with the tick, was in denial it was the lifters but the exhaust gaskets were recently replaced. Got the misfire code then immediatly rebuilt it. Cylinder 4 lifter roller looked worn and camshaft had a huge v shaped gash in it. Parts cost $2500 cad including gaskets. Put new anti-freeze, head gaskets and water pump gasket was in rough shape. thanks for the video and being straight to the point
I should add, it ticked for 2 minutes on the intitial startup since rebuild, no more tick since the initial start.
My ram just did this and sir I gotta say your step by step is amazing makes me feel better watching how it was done so I can fix mine again absolutely great video on everything
Had 1 question tho does stock cam need a break in time? Or just slap it in and drive like normal?
I'm having issues with a truck I bought my son. Guy said all it needed was a valve cover gasket and a TPS. Well not even close too whats really wrong with the truck. He changed the cam shaft himself but the truck is leaking everywhere even in the main seal. Bolts are broke inside the oil pan. Water pump is leaking. It just gets worse. Man I wish I can hire this guy. He is amazing. You can even hear it in his voice he really enjoys doing this. Please help me.
My 2013 crew cab sport with 150k engine light came on.
Misfire cylinder 6.
Put new spark plugs. Swapped the coils. Cleaned injectors. And I’m still misfiring when I punch it. Idles fine. No crazy lifter tick. But after watching this video I’m going to pull the trigger on a cam swap along with upgraded lifters.
Great video man. Very thorough and straight to the point.
Pull off the passenger side valve cover and crank the engine over while holding the gas pedal all the way down (that way the engine doesn’t start). Have someone crank the engine like that and watch the valves on cylinder 6 and I bet you’ll find one valve that moves less than the other ones. That’s how you know. I have another video on my channel where I do that if you want to see.
Leave your old lifters installed until you get your block cleaned up kidos
Great video I can't believe the Tube just now put it in my feed
If I had my way I would never have anyone but you touch my 2014 Ram 2500 5.7. What a professional video and a perfect job. You are the man!!!
10/10 Just replaced Cams, lifters on hemi 5.7 Chrysler Aspen. Your video was a very good help. Thanks.
Sir, that was one of the best filmed and narrated instructional videos I've seen. This will guide me through the process on my 300C
Thank you for an excellent video. I have the 4wd version. Added an extra six hours lowering the differential. Many videos out there say to remove the passenger side motor mount and jack the motor. I did not need to do this, just lower the diff as much as it will go until it rests on crossmember brackets and then you can manipulate the diff to let the oil pan slide out. Thank you for your help!!
Thank you for not adding the blah, blah, blah add in banter. Great instructions and info. Good job!
Fixed a whole truck thanks to this video
I don't normally do internal engine work. But I have a Durango that needs this done. Thanks for the video!!!
Thank you, you help so many of us who just need some guidance for these complex repairs. I need to replace lifters/cam as it is about that time, again. I just can’t do 5k at the dealership for a truck worth about the same. This video will help me, I’m sure. Thank you
Job well do Mr. Fletcher. Editing was better than the movies. 😂😂. 2 thumbs up for some great information.
Im saving this video for the torque specs and detailed tear down instructions. You definitely made this look less intimidating. Ive worked on a lot of enginee but never a hemi
Nice job on this video and edits. 145k on my 2013 1500 with the 5.7 appreciate your lesson very well done gets my like and subscribe.
Thank you! Thanks for watching.
I have double that on my 2004 Hemi Laramie but mine is in miles.
All original besides the Front axles.
Great detail, I'm about to tackle this Hemi defect on on 170,000 mile Ram. I will be refering back to your video and all your spec details
11:20 First destroyed lifter in not part of MDS. Is it intake or exhaust? Which cylinder? Seems like two cam lobes were totally wiped out. Was it only two lifters that failed? Which lifters failed?
Where did you get the parts???
Great video 👍thanks for all the details on torque. Gave me the extra boost in confidence to knock this out myself. Super appreciate ya
I’m glad the video helped you!
I just had number 3 misfire, 325000 miles. Im not complaining at all. Love my Ram
Hi friend. I've been studying your video for weeks to do the same job on my Ram, but first I have two questions: the first is, would the procedure and torque on each bolt be the same for the 2012 Ram 5.7 hemi? And the second question is: I didn't quite understand why the marking on the bolts and the 90 degrees? Regards and I hope you can help me.
Should be a recall. Shame on the money grabbers.
I agree 100%. Should be a recall. I have all my service records and oil changes was all on time, still had a lifter fail. But Im In the process of getting a stage 2 cam, headers, and a hellcat pump. Mine failed at 207k miles with a 2012 Ram 1500 Laramie.
@@TheStuddermanhow much did all of that cost?
@@d2hickmott
FRP Cam kit $2,500
Melling high volume oil pump $225
HP RIPP coil packs $550
Timing chain kit $200
New plugs $180
K&N CAI $350
Valve and seal job, heads resurfaced $1,200
Custom Tune $500
@ thanks so much! I bet it runs QUICK
@@d2hickmott I hope It will, Its almost done, Im just waiting on the heads from the machine shop. Im getting all new valves, resurfacing and cleaned. No problem at all.
Great video. Why no MDS delete? Maybe install the upgraded Melling oil pump? Could this job be done without removing the oil pan? Can you clean out the debris from the oil pan if it’s not removed? Any concern about metal in bearing surfaces?
Hello,
I replaced the lifters including the camshaft, timing chain set + camshaft adjuster and oil pump from the Hellcat on my 2015 Gen4.
The engine runs really well, but when it's idling I hear a rattling noise from the cylinder head area.
Is that normal or should I be worried?
Video of the noise is in my profile.
Incredible video, ill be doing mine next month still waiting on my headers and ARP hardware to arrive.
Great Vid, another one is from 1A Auto....If you have a 4x4 its a real pain..you have to drop the front diff in order to drop the oil pan. There are 5 bolts that need to be removed, 2 on the right and 3 on the left.
Hi Jack Did you use OEM lifters and cam ? if not what brand do you recommend? Thanks I just read from other comments way down lol.. you got everything from the dealer ...cheers great video's keep up the great work !!!
Fantastic video - highlighting the steps along the way!
Great video. Why no MDS delete? Maybe install the upgraded Melling oil pump? Could this job be done without removing the oil pan? Can you clean out the debris from the oil pan if it’s not removed?
What cam did you use in the video or would you personally use or recomend? I see some forums guys are recomending comp cam, melling double roller chain, and melling HV oil pump, factory lifters
Do you recommend doing new Rockers also with this?
This was an AMAZING VIDEO, THANK YOU!!!! Considering replacing my timing chain assembly because of the guide rattle, now I may go farther and do everything you did while i'm in there, however, still pretty nervous!
You can do it! Just take your time with it. And buy good quality parts!
Excellent video. Not sure if i can tackle this on my 4x4 jeep in my garage though. Thinking about it. Dont understand the "90 degree" bolt segment. Aren't bolt just torqued to spec?
I did this work 1.5 years ago in my driveway, not ideal but made it work weather dependent. I'd recommend you look up the "assembling 5.7l hemi engine" video by @ghostlyrich he explains the bolt torque as well and shows his process.
Did you reuse the oil pump? If you're already in there, it would make sense to put a new one in, whether OEM or a hellcat/high volume one. Especially with all that debris in the pan.
Awesome video! Getting flag hours I wouldn't have removed the pan or oil pump but that's just my method of madness
I wouldn't trust the oil pump after seeing all those metal shavings
what about the metal shaving inside that oil pump....just wondering
Definitely one of the best how to video I have ever seen
Would this be the same on the car applications? Chrysler 300/dodge charger?
Thanks for a great and detailed video. My Durango has the squeaking lifter sounds, it’s started not too long ago, I hope there’s still time to save the camshaft, gonna order the new lifters and yeet the old ones.
Excellent video. Now I know why the dealer wanted $6000 for that repair on my 2015 5.7. Decided to trade it in and buy a new car.
Lucky they let you trade it in
The only question I have is, how do you hold back engine when torquing the cam gear bolt?
Thank you so much dude ,I decided not to buy a new truck,and restore my 2013,I ve started on suspension and have been worried about motor because of the mds but my truck runs fine no issies 215k on it ,im replacing all mounts bushings all suspension parts axles bearings you know.painting frame all that but the motor im hoping last for lil longer cause i dont have time to do this job till summer.ive takin care of it still looks new.(subscribed)!!!
Great video! My 2012 Jeep grand Cherokee has a cylinder 2 misfire. The SUV ran decent, took it to a mechanic, he found a bad hydraulic lifter, replaced it. Now the truck doesn’t even run, it starts but is not stable. Is this normal could the engine be damaged? It was running before. Do you think the camshaft needs replacing or did he just not assemble it right? Any thoughts?
Is it the same engine? The 5.7 hemi? My first thought is that there may have been an issue during reassembly because it definitely shouldn’t be worse than it was before.
@@jackhfletcher Hi Jack! Yes it’s a 5.7 Hemi. You know I thought the same thing but then I asked myself why would he take on a job that he knows nothing about. Thanks so much for replying! I might just take it apart myself and see what’s going on.
That pneumatic tool at 19:30 for cleaning the engine surfaces!!! What is it and where can I get one?!
I actually bought it at Harbor Freight! It’s a mini air angle die grinder.
www.harborfreight.com/search?q=Die%20grinder
The attachment I was using I bought on a tool truck but you can buy them online. Just search “plastic bristle attachment for die grinder”
@@jackhfletcher Thanks a ton!!! I’ve actually got my 2015 charger in a million pieces right now thanks to your video. Had a lifter go out and it damaged my cam. Now I’ve just got to put the rest of it back together.
Great video gave me the confidence to tackle this myself
Thank you
My only experience changing cams is in old school sbc. Is there no cam break in procedure with the hemi?
My 2014 Ram 5.7 is getting Diagnosed now for this exact problem. He said he is going to see if its just bad lifters..or if the Cam needs replaced as well. Is it possible that just the lifters need replaced? Or will Cam need to be replaced?
I have yet to see a failed lifter that hasn’t damaged the camshaft on these Hemi’s. It’s pretty much a guarantee that it will need the cam also.
very well done, you made it look so easy that im thinking of doing it my self, at lest , i now have some leverage to show a pro mech. that it can be done for less than $7000 , more like 10 to 12 hrs labor " like the chiltions book allows" will make the est. closer to $2000 to $3500 , thank you for that... hope you get alot of points "likes" for your time spent , you sir did a good deed indeed thanks again aka "clutch"
I agree to most of you he did a great job and can see he does not have two left hands. Good job buddy 😎
Great video i would definitely clean the entire engine bay before i started the install i didn’t has a speck of dirt after using a power washer and had no issues after
Would this be very similar for a 2006 Grand Cherokee with the 5.7 hemi?
thank you for posting this. I'll be replacing a few things on mine. I'm going with shorties and a bigger throttle body, stock cam but I'm doing away with the mds system. any advise?
Getting rid of the MDS is a good idea. My advice would be to take your time. Don’t get in a rush. Make sure all the important bolts are torqued.
Don't do shorties, waste of time and money for no gains. Longtubes are the deal.
GREAT VIDEO !!
What tool brand or part number
is that harmonic balancer puller tool?
It can be done with out removing the oil pump for those who are wondering . This way the crank stays in time you only have to set timing on new cam . You would want to do it this way if you have a ram 1500 4x4 cause this way no pan removal either
I'm about to do this on a 2014 4x4. So you are saying I can index timing chain to TDC and just remove the cam sprocket?
Just because it CAN be done, doesn’t mean it SHOULD be done. You see how much metal ends up at the bottom of the oil pan? If you don’t clean that out, you’re asking for trouble down the road. If you’re doing it on your personal vehicle and you want to cut corners, fine. But don’t do it on a customer’s vehicle.
@jackhfletcher 100% agreement. It's a POV and I am doing work in my garage. I am limited to what I can pull off and where. Is the only concern metal shavings in oil?
I dropped the pan on my 4x4. Had to lower the front diff to do it. Huge PITA
Hey Jack, Do you have any videos on removing stuck MDS solenoids?
Hey man, amazing video. It helps a lot. I was wondering if you could tell me where you got the MDS replacement kit? Thanks 🙏🏼
I hope you got paid for every single time I watched this video. Thanks, bro, great job, much appreciated.
I hope so too! Haha. Thanks for watching. I’m glad you enjoyed it.
So is this a problem with the lifter itself , or is it a lack of lubrication problem. Why do these lifters do this?
There are different theories on this. Some people theorize that the particular metal hardening process used during manufacturing of the camshaft lobes causes premature lifter failure. Either that, or the lifters are just poorly made. It’s probably not a lubrication issue.
What does this repair cost @ a shop like yours, if I may ask?.. I am confident I'd be able to do it but w/ very limited time to do the job, my kids truck would be doun and out for a month or so...
Thank you so much for this video! Question, after putting my engine back together and adding the appropriate amount of fluids here and there, when I crank the truck up it's an extremely rough idle with fluctuating RPM. After the Shakey idle the engine cuts off. What did I do wrong? Any ideas?
Check with a scanner and see if there are any codes. Probably a sensor that you forgot to plug in and the code will tell you which one. Could be another problem but from my experience that’s usually what happens. Let me know if you get it resolved.
@@jackhfletcher ended up pulling multiple misfires from the code reader. Figured I installed the push rods wrong. In the re-disassembly to fix it, I found my intake manifold gaskets were completely useless and flush. Putting everyone back together with new gaskets and resetting the rods extra carefully. Will report back with results!
The only other thing I could think that would cause multiple misfires would be if you didn’t install the timing chain properly. Maybe the timing is off. But it sounds like you have a good plan. Replace the intake gaskets first for sure.
Will I need to do all this if I’m only changing the lifters ?
Best automotive video I've ever seen
What brand cam and lifters did you re install ? My truck has to be done and curious what people are using. Thanks
I used OEM parts from the dealer.
Big question, my truck shows 4 permanent codes think it’s sensors and cylinder 4 misfire will they cleared out? Cause check engine light it’s on but running ok THANKS!
Permanent codes will clear after a certain amount of drive cycles where no issue is detected by the PCM. They cannot be cleared by a scan tool. Only “pending” or “current” codes can be cleared. So as long as you don’t have any of those, you’ll be good.
@@jackhfletcher Thank You so much you helped me a lot bro
I have a 2012 300C with a 5.7 sounds like a lifter is ticking… no misfire yet… is it a requirement to replace the camshaft if its not misfiring yet? Or would I be ok just changing the lifters?
You won’t know for sure until you disassemble. Check all the lifter bearings for wear and look down into the lifter bores and look at the camshaft lobes one by one and look for any wear or damage. Rotate the engine by hand as you’re inspecting the camshaft so that you can see the tips of the lobes where they press on the lifters. From what I’ve seen, usually a ticking lifter will damage the camshaft, since the “ticking” sound is actually caused by the camshaft slamming into the lifter due to a worn, collapsed, or seized lifter bearing.
@@jackhfletcher understood, thanks for your help man you’re awesome! Keep up the great content.
Awesome video. What’s the cost for all the parts ?
I did exactly what you did but I did a mds delete and when I tried to start my truck, it first said something about 4 different cylinders and then I tuned it to turn off the mds. Then I tried to start it up again and then gaved me a p0300 code saying that it has random misfires. Any ideas what may be wrong?
I just got new lifters and cam oil pump from comp cams and it will be getting the mds delete done as well
Great video.....followed along several times...my 1500 has 4x4....unfortunately you have to drop the front transaxle to drop the oil pan.....
On a 4x4 it’s almost easier to pull the engine.
Thanks
My 04 with 300,000 miles says maybe later
was there any consideration to metal shvings going throught the engine? those cam lobes look pretty munched up. Obviously there was a decision to move forward with the job. What your opinion about this? Video really is outstanding.. will have the video close by to do mine.. Thank you!!!
Amazing video. How did you torque the camshaft bolt without having the crankshaft turn?
They make a special tool that has the shape of a “V” with studs on it, (the I had did) that you use on the cam sprocket to hold it in place from turning while you torque that cam bolt down. Remember if you do not use this tool or one like it, you are likely to throw your #1 piston off of TDC.
@@joelhefner9517 which one would you suggest for a 2015 ram 1500?
Looks to me like it been easier just pull whole damn engine
Hello, could you tell me what brand of the spare parts you used?
You helped me a lot, saved my truck and my money 💰. Thank you so much, god bless you.
Where did you order your camshaft and lifter kit from??? It will be for a 2013 dodge ram 5.7 v8 1500 big horn
I got everything from the dealer.
i am willing to take my truck to you to fix my hemi tick. i’ve checked and changed my exhaust manifold gaskets because they were basically blown. That wasn’t the issue. i don’t have room or all the tools to be able to do this.
How many miles did this have if you don’t mind me asking
It only had 79,180.
160 k on mine. #6 cylinder misfire. Mechanic told me its probably a worn cam shaft lobe after chasing down some other possibilities. Than he told me to take it somewhere else 🤦♂️
@@shawnweir8426 I’ve got a 2010 5.7 and I’m at 210k and I just recently got a misfire in cylinder 5, a slight lifter pinging and I’ve done all new coils and all new spark plugs. At this point with the mileage I’m not even going to waste my time changing cam/lifters, I’m just going to throw a mopar long block in it and run it.
How do you remove the fan? Please and thank you.
I used an air hammer with a pneumatic fan clutch tool. There are other non-air tools you can use to remove the fan but it’s kind of a pain.